New added Neil Underwood’s (Spacexula) Youtube assembly video links!
Initial writeup by Brock Tice - IRC: <brocktice>
Additional notes, instructions, and photos by:
If you have instructions/photos/etc to add/modify/etc, please contact one of us via IRC, email or through the MakerGear Google group to get edit rights for this document. If edit rights are granted, you’ll receive an email with a special Google Docs link which will enable you to edit this document online.
A RepRap has (as I see it) 6 critical components:
1. Hardware (the printer frame and moving parts including rods, printed vertexes, pulleys, screws, etc)
2. Electronics (Arduino, RAMPS, limit switches, motors )
3. Wiring (connects hardware to electronics
4. Firmware running on the Arduino (can be updated via USB)
5. Host software (runs on your computer)
a. For slicing (Slic3r for example)
b. For printer control (Pronterface for example)
The kit includes 1, 2, 3, and an initial firmware (4). Depending on your platform you will take different routes for the software components and loading firmware. I (Brock) used Linux so I will start with that in the software section.
I recommend you proceed as follows:
1. Build the hardware
2. Solder up the electronics
3. Wire everything
4. Install the host software, including the firmware flashing SDK (Arduino)
5. Test the interface of the printer control software and the hardware. Probably this will require tweaking, screws and nuts may fall off, etc.
6. Test printing once you have (5) sorted out.
The remainder of this guide is laid out assuming you are following this order.
(Disclosure, I [Brock] use some affiliate links)
Still Extruding: Makergear Prusa Mendel Introduction - YouTube video
This section identifies the differences between the Standard Prusa Mendel and the MakerGear Prusa Mendel, particularly with respect to this Prusa Mendel Visual Instruction Guide. You should follow that guide and come back here to check for differences. (If for any reason the link does not work, just search for ‘Prusa Mendel Visual Instruction Guide’)
Note: If you have a hybrid kit (i.e. not all metric), your M8 rods/nuts will actually be 5/16.
Still Extruding: MakerGear Prusa Y Idler & Motor Mount - YouTube video
This says to use fender/mudguard washers with 608 bearings to create spots for a belt, right of the motor mount it says washer-nut-washer-washer-fender-washer-bearing-washer-fender-nut. Instead, take one of the 688 bearings and carefully snap it into one of the plastic wheels. Then instead of the sequence above, you want washer-washer-nut-bearing/wheel-nut. It seems like you should not need the two washers next to each other, but they are necessary for spacing the wheel from the motor-mount screws. See this image for reference on orientation:
That is, the slanted side of the wheel should face the motor mount. The wheel on the back should have the same orientation and use the same substitution, absent the extra spacing washer.
See the previous section, just replace the fender washer / bearing complex with a wheel/bearing complex as on the front.
The MG Prusa uses longer top rods than the stock. Please see this picture from MakerGear showing how the top motor mounts are mounted/spaced. For example, one of the brackets will go right up against the top vertex, and the other will require approximately 40mm spacing.
Your kit may have come with a wooden jig that says ‘MakerGear’ on it that has 290mm (for J1) and 250mm (for J2) spacings (see image). Note that for the MG Prusa the J2 spacing is 250mm, not 234 as is stated in the instructions.
Note: Due to laser issues not all kits have this jig.
The stock instructions say to use standard bar clamps. However, the MG Prusa uses bearings instead of bushings for the rods connected to the Z-axis motors, so you’ll need to use different parts. Make sure they are facing the right way.
Build Tip: There is a one inch piece of PTFE tubing packed with the belts, wraps, and ties. It goes on the bottom rod (the rod that supports the Z rods). Depending on how the bot is configured, it is possible for the Y belt to brush across the rod. The PTFE tube is to prevent wear on the belt.
Still Extruding: MakerGear Prusa Assembling the Y Trolley - YouTube video
Build Tip: BEFORE building the Y-stage, use the y-carriage top to mark the locations to drill on the build platform. (The 4 holes that are in the “ears” on the side of the y-carriage)
Most of the wooden laser-cut parts are used for building the Y-stage. They fit together pretty easily like a 3D puzzle (see following pictures). Use the M3x12 screws, M3 nuts, and M3.2 fender washers to hold the frame together. Build Tip (Brock): Washers not shown in the picture, I forgot them the first time. Don’t make the same mistake.
Clear all the slots and holes of the cut pieces:
Press in the bushings...
Build Tip from MakerGear - the laser cuts at a slight angle, so the bushings may push in easier from one side of the wood than the other.
Build Tip (Ian) - My bushings didn’t press in easily, so I used a socket and a rubber mallet to GENTLY tap them into place, pic below:
Still Extruding: Installing the Makergear Y Axis - YouTube video
Still Extruding: Resistance on an Axis - YouTube video
I found the easiest way to do this was to put the rods through the y-stage bushings, get them reasonably well adjusted in the bar clamps on one end, and then tighten those down, making sure the stage could slide freely away. Then I slid it to the other end to enforce spacing, carefully tightened those and made sure it could slide freely away, then loosed then other end and slid back, then repeated. After that all clamps were tightened and I checked that the stage could slide smoothly back and forth.
If you have 0.9 degree and 1.8 degree steppers, use the 0.9 degree steppers on X and Y.
Attach one of the manufactured pulleys with flanges to a stepper motor, on the side where the axle has a flat part. The metal bit should be closest to the motor. Tighten.
Use M3.2 fender washers and M3x12mm bolts when mounting the Y-motor.
Note (Ian:) I had the wrong smooth rods for the Y-carriage (the ones with red ends) in the next picture - I had to swap them later... (TODO: Update pic with correct rods)
The belt is clamped to the Y-stage with two belt clamps, each is composed of a top piece and bottom piece. The bottom has spaces for M3 nuts. I found it easy to put them in by putting them on the end of a bolt and then pushing them in. Make sure they’re in straight or they’ll cross-thread. The top piece should be held on by M3x25 screws with M3.2 fender washers.
Note (Ian:) I had the wrong smooth rods for the Y-carriage (the ones with red ends) in the next 2 pictures - I had to swap them later... (the red ends were just a marking from the manufacturer and was not related to the assembly process - rick)
The parts look slightly different here but it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.
Build Tip (Ian): Don’t forget the two fine rod adjustment screws on the X-idler (par on the left in the pic above)
Build Tip (Ian): Note that the standard Prusa X-carriage snaps on, while the MakerGear Prusa X-carriage has bushings and must be installed on the X-axis before it gets mounted. For now, you are setting the X-axis you’ve just built aside and will install the X-carriage in Part 8. Just realize that the X-axis isn’t done.
Here you should replace the fender washer and bearing assembly with the last wheel and 608 bearing, as you did on the front and back threaded rods. Note that even in the hybrid kit, the M8 bolt really is M8, so find your M8 nuts. It should probably go (from the head of the bolt): bearing/wheel-nut-washer-idler_mount-washer-nut.
The nut traps are designed for M4 nuts in the MG Prusa, vs. M3 as stated in the visual guide. Use M4x20 bolts and M4.3 washers for Step 4.
The included magnetic spirit level is nice for checking plumb on the Z-rods. You can magnetically attach it first to one side of a rod, then orthogonal to the original position, and make sure both are level.
The MG Prusa uses metal bushings, rather than snap-on printed bushings, so you’ll need to finish assembling the X axis. Press fit all the remaining bushings into the X carriage and Z carriages, put the X carriage onto the X-axis. The nut traps should face down and the plastic tab with the nut traps should face the Y-motor mount. (See picture). Before you assemble this all for good, I recommend you bore out the little holes on the sides of the smooth rod channels (for the rod at the bottom of this picture), put some M3 nuts in the traps, and put M3 screws into them just enough to hold them in place. You will probably want to use them later to adjust the alignment of the smooth rods.
Make sure the X smooth rods stick out the X-idler side and not the X-motor side. Then, loosen the smooth Z rods, slide them up into the clamps a bit, gently tighten the clamps, and fit the whole assembled X-axis onto the smooth Z-rods. Loosen the Z-rod clamps, lower the Z-rods back down into the lower clamps, and tighten everything back down. Double-check for smooth motion and plumb. Adjust the side screws for X-rod alignment (not shown here), if the travel of the X carriage is too stiff. Should look about like this when you’re done.
If you want to use the plastic Z-couplers, The Z-couplers in the MG Prusa kit take M4x20 bolts, M4.3 washers, and M4 nuts, vs. the M3 specs in the visual guide.
BUT if you’d rather use the improved MakerGear parts, use the two round metal pieces. The pieces you’re looking for have two set screws apiece, and one end is correctly sized for a stepper shaft and the other is the right size for a threaded rod. I can’t even begin to stress how much better this option is.
Still Extruding: Assembling a MakerGear Brutstruder - YouTube video
MakerGear Stepper Plastruder Instructions: These instructions aren’t specific for the Prusa kit, so the filament drive RP piece will look different.
Build Tip: (Brock) This is noted a bit late in the MG instructions, but make sure to put an M4 nut in the trap that will be below the extruder motor before attaching the motor. At least it’s easy to go back and fix if you forget/miss it.
Build Tip: (Brock) I had a little trouble getting my V3 into the almost-circular hole on the bottom of the Brut assembly. Per a recommendation on IRC I got out the heat gun ( a hairdryer will probably work ), softened things up a little, then widened the hole a bit.
Note: None of the Prusa kits have a batch 1 hot end, so follow the instructions for batches 2 and 3.
Tip: If you have to make changes to your hot end (like removing the barrel from the insulator, you need to do it HOT or you will break it.
This pic shows the fully assembled plastruder mounted on the MakerGear Prusa kit, it is a good reference:
[Ian: The left side of this picture is the printed MakerGear Stepper Plastuder Instructions, thats why it looks so large..]
Note: This section includes some hardware assembly too, but it only includes that where electronics/wiring work are also necessary.
Still Extruding: Powering RepRap from an ATX Supply - YouTube video
For the power supply, use the one that shipped with your kit. You either got an ATX (computer) power supply which has a number of cables coming from it with various connectors, or one with screw terminals.
Non-ATX power supply (with screw terminals) - Cut off the PSU end (the end that does NOT go to the wall) of the PC power supply AC cable that came with the kit, and wire the black wire to L, the white wire to N, and the green wire to the GROUND. (see photo). The specific layout of your power supply may vary from this photo. We’ve been testing (powering up and putting a meter on the terminals) before shipping. Each power supply also contains a small bag of spade terminal connectors and heat shrink tubing (not present in some of the early kits), and wiring instructions.
Also, the kits presently ship with US power cords. Until we are able to inventory international power cords, you’ll need to use an adapter or find a cord rate to at least 15 amps.
Note: Make sure you check the switch on the right side (as oriented in the picture below) and set it for the appropriate input power in your location.
ATX (computer) power supply - If you were supplied with an ATX power supply, use the AC line cord as supplied.
ATX supplies normally require a signal from the computer to turn on, so we need to fool it into coming on without this signal. Locate the 24-pin connector on the power supply and the corresponding socket that came in your kit. Plug them together and identify the pin which connects to the green wire coming from the supply. You need to solder a bit of wire from the connector that goes to the green wire to one that goes to a black wire. See the following picture. This connector will not be otherwise used, but you will want to wrap this connector in tape to make sure it does not short out to anything; it has high currents on it and it may cause damage if it shorts out.
I have been using these instructions, so far so good. As mentioned in #makergearv2 on IRC, the correct value for the capacitor is 100nF, not 10nF. It is marked 104 (10*10^4th pF). The RAMPS v1.2 board has the correct label for the capacitor.
To separate the header bits, I used a pair of side-cut pliers gently on the short-pin side, while carefully holding both sides to be split in my fingers to keep them from flying.
Build Tip: If your shield looks like this, you need to make sure your stepper pins go out the top of your pololu boards like this. The pins that should stick out (look at the bottom of the pololu boards) are: 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b. My kit was shipped with some nice white locking 4-pin headers that could be used instead. YMMV.
[Ian: I DID NOT install the optional diode that ties the RAMPS power to the MEGA power. This allows running the steppers at a higher voltage than the Arduino MEGA can handle. I can always install it later...]
[Brock: You shouldn’t need the diode, the RAMPS will be powered by the USB cable from your computer. This confused me at first.]
Stepping Configuration Tip [Ian]: The firmware shipped with my kit was setup for 1/8th stepping. When I built my RAMPS board, I installed all the stepping jumpers which is the configuration for 1/16th stepping. This meant that my axis all moved ½ the intended distance. See the section named Initial Tests and Configuration for more information and how to setup the firmware for 1/16th stepping. If you want to get started without having to recompile firmware (it isn’t that hard, but it is another thing to learn), then you should configure your RAMPS for 1/8th stepping until you are ready to change firmware. Since I’d already installed the Polulu boards and have experience uploading to an Arduino, I made the firmware changes and left the stepper set for 1/16th stepping.
Other information: RepRap Wiki: RAMPS
MakerGear RAMPS kit parts: (The 1k resistors are for the endstops, not the RAMPS kit)
Fully populated RAMPS kit with Pololu drivers (no heatsinks yet) and a bare RAMPS board for comparison:
Heatsinks installed with tape provided in kit:
This pic from MakerGear shows the X and Y end stops: Please note, it’s very common to misconnect the endstops and short 5V to Ground instead of Ground to Signal. In the photo above, the 3 pins (center bottom of photo) for each endstop (X-MIN, X-MAX, Y-MIN, etc...) read + - S (on the silkscreen). This means when you connect your 2 pin molex to the RAMPS you use the - and S.
This pic from MakerGear shows the Z end stop (middle left of pic) which is under the X-idler.
End Stop micro-switch mounting:
End Stop Wiring: One wire is soldered to NO, the other is soldered to C - this can be seen in the X-Axis End Stop pic below.
Wire NO to signal
Wire C to ground
Place the 1k resistor in series on the ground line. you really don't need the resistor now but if you should change your wiring in the future, it will be in place.
(Brock): I used some of the heatshrink to help firm up the connections between the wire and the resistor. Probably this is what I’m supposed to do but I’ve never done it before. Seemed to work fine.
Firmware Note: If you use the firmware that was included on the MEGA, you can active the the micro-switches using M998 in your gcode. Other firmware will vary.
[Ian: I paired the colors (personal preference) and added the push-in connectors. This could be done last which would prevent you from having to re-solder if you forget to add the shrink-tubing. I removed about 4” of wire from one side, then stripped and tinned the ends. I slid shrink-tubing down the wire (since the connector was already on the other end). I put solder on the micro-switch terminals (Be careful, I’ve damaged a switch by overheating it in the past, don’t keep the iron on the switch for a long time). I then heated the switch terminal up with the iron, pushing the tinned lead through the hole. I pulled the wire back to a reasonable angle and let the solder cool. I trimmed the excess lead that went through the switch and shrink-tubed the connection. I soldered the switches with them already installed, it would have been easier to do prior to installing them, but they are fairly accessible with the printer on a workbench]
X-MIN End Stop
Note: Rick at MakerGear runs his machines “backward” from typical RepRap - so this endstop is X-MIN if your X-axis zero is on the RIGHT and moving +X moves from right to left. If you want to run the other direction, just move the end stop to the left side. See the section on “Testing stepper wiring orientation” for more details.
Y-MIN End Stop
Z-MIN End Stop (Note, the Z-Axis has an M3 nut & bolt that allows for “precision adjustment”)
[todo: add pic of M3 nut & bolt installed]
STRONGLY RECOMMEND: Mark & drill the Y-carriage mounting holes on the wood base BEFORE building the Y-carriage... Mark & drill the holes for the PCB HeatBed at the same time.
This picture is a good reference for both the platform mounting and the high-temp green wire connection to the PCB Heatbed:
Build platform mounting to Y-carriage: (Ian: since I’d overdrilled the platform holes for alignment, I added washers on each side of the spring.I also didn’t have the nylon lock nuts on in this pic...)
[Brock: I actually recommend you intentionally overdrill the holes in the build platform a bit. It makes the springs work better and gives you a little wiggle room for fitting things together.]
Bolt | Washer | Wood | Washer | Spring | Washer | Nut | GAP | Nut | Y-carriage | Nylon Lock nut
Still Extruding: Mounting a Prusa Heated Build Plate - YouTube video
Carefully remove the tape covering over the solder pads (Ian: I labeled the polarity with a sharpie):
Pads fluxed and SMT resistor for LEDs installed:
SMT LEDs installed (Ian: I installed them as per the RepRap wiki, one in each direction, and labeled the one that lights with correct polarity “ON” and the one that lights with reverse polarity “BAD”):
[Todo: add wiring & connector pics (Ian: I didn’t use the high-temp green wire, so I need to redo and
take new pics)]
(Brock): Your green wires should be soldered directly to the pads marked +/- above, and directly to the corresponding terminals on the thick red connector.
Half of the black AWG18 wire should then be soldered directly to the other side of that connector (i.e. about 2’ or 60cm length, the other half is to power the RAMPS).
Pay attention to the markings on the black wire - it has the negative side indicated by little ‘- - - - - ‘ marks, and the positive side is ridged (insert dirty joke here). The positive side of the black wire is connected to one of the V+ terminals on your power supply, while the negative side should be screwed into the - D8 terminal on your shield (the one without the + sign, there is no - sign).
If your steppers have shafts coming out both sides, one side with a flat bit, your pairs are green/black and red/blue. For the stepper extruder, it’s yellow/blue and green/red. Strip and tin the ends of the wires, then screw them into the white 4-terminal blocks, in the order red-blue-green-black. For the z-steppers, wire them together into a single terminal block, matching each color. Zip-tie the blocks/wires onto appropriate places on the frame. Find the gray shielded wire, and cut appropriate lengths to reach from each white terminal block to the RAMPS. Strip off the outer sheath and shielding. You want about 1.5” on one side (terminal block side) and 1” on the other (4-pin connector side). If your motors are red-blue-green-black, match the colors with the grey wire, except you will match white with blue. Strip the ends of the individual wires. Tin the wires on the 1.5” side. On the 1” side, crimp the pins that come with the 4-pin connectors onto the wires, solder them lightly as with the heater core crimps, and then insert them in the appropriate order into the connector. In my case (with steppers with shafts on both sides) the appropriate order was red-white-green-black.
Screw the 1.5” ends into the white terminal blocks, making sure you’re using the pieces of the right length. Again match the order with red-white/blue-green-black. Your steppers should now be wired. If they’re backward you can always flip them in software. You can now plug them into the headers on the RAMPS. Make sure you match the right headers with the right steppers. (X, Y, Z, and E for Extruder. Might be marked E0 on the RAMPS.)
You will now need to crimp and run wires for the heater core and nozzle thermistor. Find the matching black pieces from the hot end kit and use those with a grey wire (2 conductors for thermistor, 2 for heater core). On the other end you’ll add crimps and a female black plastic connector for the thermistor, and the hot end wires will go right into the D9 (or D10 if you use Klimentkip firmware, it’s easy to change later). It doesn’t matter which wire is which for thermistor or heater core, since they’re just resistors, but BE CAREFUL NOT TO MIX THEM UP.
Hook up your endstops to the (X/Y/Z)-MIN pins on the RAMPS. As mentioned earlier, you want whatever wire was hooked up to ‘NO’ connected to the ‘S’ pin, and whatever wire was hooked up to ‘C’ goes to the ‘-’ pin. I set mine up so the little arrow on the connector marks ground, but for all I know that’s a flagrant violation of standards. Do it however you like, as long as you will remember.
The black wires from the heated bed are connected (+) to the power supply (+12V) and (-) to the (-) D8 terminal on the RAMPS. The (-) is not labeled, so it is the one not marked (+).
The remaining black wire (that looks like lamp cord) should be connected to the green power input on the RAMPS. Note the (+) marked on one of the connections. This should be connected to +12V on the power supply. The other side should be connected to the -12V on the power supply. There’s a red rocker switch included with the kit. If you want, you can solder this into either the positive or negative line to give yourself an on/off switch for the RAMPS 12V power.
If using an ATX (computer) power supply, it will be wired up a bit differently. The power supplies have two “rails” to provide power. The high current rail rail will power the heated print bed and is provided via the 4-pin square connector (shown on the upper left in the photo below), and the other rail via one of the the 4 pin flat connectors (in the lower right in the photo below). Note that the black wires are ground (negative) and the YELLOW wires are 12 volts. On the high current square connector, you will want to wire the two black wires together and the two yellow wires together.
This pic shows the eventual wiring for RAMPS 1.2, although D9 is used for the extruder heater, not D10. http://twitpic.com/53pijr
This pic shows the eventual wiring for RAMPS 1.3 (and 1.4)
This photo shows how to wire the connectors from the kit to interface with the ATX power supply (if you got an ATX power supply). The connector at top left is high current.
You’ll need to install your host software.
Download and install the Arduino Mega 2560 Drivers from the Arduino site (http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage). This is required so your PC recognizes the USB port device on the Arduino board. You will also need the Arduino application to compile and upload new firmware.
Connecting to the printer with host software.
Set the correct COM port (Note for Repsnapper: can be found in Device Manager under Ports)
Set the baud to 115200 (Note for Repsnapper: On the “Input File” tab, there is a “Save Settings” button that keeps you from changing this each time.)
Click “Connect” (make sure everything is connected - not just steppers or it won’t connect). For Pronterface most of the GUI will be greyed out until you are connected.
For Repsnapper only: On the “Print” tab, there is a text box labeled “GCode” - Type “M998” (no quotes) in this box - this will enable end stops. A side effect of NOT doing this is that the axis won’t move in the negative direction.
Testing stepper wiring orientation (thanks to koen on IRC for this tip):
Note: If your stepper wire pairs are correct, but an axis is reversed, POWER DOWN and then you can flip the stepper connector on the RAMPS board.
Draw a standard X / Y axis on a piece of paper and set on the print bed. [Ian todo: pic here]
When moving in the +X direction, then extruder nozzle should move to the right, as X would increase along the graph NOTE: This is the “standard way”, Rick @ MakerGear runs his “backward”, so all the pics of his machines show the X-MIN endstop on the right.
When moving in the +Y direction, the print bed moves to the front, causing the extruder nozzle to follow the Y axis on the paper in the positive direction
When moving in the +Z direction, the extruder nozzle moves AWAY from the print bed. If your endstops are properly configured you should not be able to move beyond the tip touching the print bed or outside of the X and Y max distances in the configuration.h file (see Firmware section below).
Testing stepper movement distance
Using a caliper, measure a starting point for each axis, then use the +10 button in Pronterface or Repetier host software to instruct the stepper to move 10mm. Measure the new point after the axis moves, then compute the distance. If the distance is not 10mm, you likely need to change firmware values.
Ian note: In my case, I setup RAMPS for 1/16th step, but the firmware from MakerGear assumed 1/8th stepping, so I needed to double the values in the firmware configuration.h - I knew this needed to be done because when I clicked the +10 button, my axis only moved 5mm, not 10mm, so I needed double the steps. (and I had some help from MakerGear|Rick)
The revised configuration.h code snippet is shown below. I’ve doubled each “steps_per_unit” value and added a comment code line (starts with IC) with the original 1/8th step value for reference. The parts I changed are in bold.
float x_steps_per_unit = 125.9444; //64; //64 for 10 tooth 5mm pulleys
//IC - 62.9722 for 1/8th;
//104.987 if you’re using manufactured pulleys (not printed)
float y_steps_per_unit = 125.9444; //64;
//IC - 62.9722 for 1/8th;
//104.987 if you’re using manufactured pulleys (not printed)
float z_steps_per_unit = 2272.7272; //1536; //3072;
//IC - 1136.3636 for 1/8th
float e_steps_per_unit = 1382; //4.5875; //36.7; //14; //17.6 for adrians 36.7 for MakerGear extruder 14-17 for wades(Varies based on hobbing) ****these are all calculated for 16x microstepping
//IC - 691 is for 1/8th step
See the section called “Updating Firmware” for the basic steps on changing and uploading firmware to a RAMPs setup.
Testing extruder heater
Testing PCB heater
The firmware refers to the software loaded onto the Ardunio that interprets the Gcodes from the host software into motion and hotend temperature. It is the brains and soul of your machine, and new firmwares can change your machine from ho-hum to oh wow. You will use the Arduino software to edit (if needed), compile, and upload the firmware. Note: be sure when you first run the Arduino software to go into Tools -> Board and select the one matching yours. (e.g. the Mega 2560 is most common).
Marlin - https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin
Notes: This RepRap firmware is a mashup between Sprinter, grbl and many original parts. It’s list of features is extensive and it’s best feature is the look ahead and high cornering speed. Prior FW’s us a trapezoidal speed profile which resulted in very pronounced corners.
Sprinter - https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter
Notes: This is a firmware for RAMPS and other reprap single-processor electronics setups. It is based on Tonokip’s firmware. There are many forks of this firmware and a lot of support.
Stick with either of those and you’ll be fine.
Step 1: Download the firmware file
Step 3: Save and Verify/Compile
Step 4: Upload
Getting Started with Slic3r (Note: some people like to use slic3r that comes with pronterface. I(JC) like to slice as a separate step since I use different settings depending on the part.)
Getting Started with SkeinForge ((JC) Are you a masochist? If not use Slic3r :D)
[create new profile]
[create start.gcode (create a start.gcode text file) that sets M998]
Getting started with SF40: http://www.mendel-parts.com/new_forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=256
[SF 40 has broken skirt plugin? - research as per:
[13:06] <koen> sf40 has a broken skirt plugin
[13:08] <koen> I haven't tried 41 yet, but this fixed skirt for me: https://github.com/makerbot/ReplicatorG/commit/3f5fdd03a5eafcd3390c0878b550e271538d1720