CVT Repair Project
On my 25th, 2012 my std. Burgman 650 lost all traction as I was trying to get onto a highway onramp.
I thought I heard a slight thud and a small jerk coming from the engine and then the throttle went flat with no way to get into any gears,
it would just rev into the higher RPMs. No F1 warning or code on the display.
Shut the engine off hoping for one of those Burgman miracles wishing that somehow the ECU had gone a bit goofy. Alas the scoot was as dead as a duck stuck in ice on a cold Winter lake...
It was clear that I wasn't going anywhere, so I called a tow truck and had it towed to the house, thankfully I was just only 8 miles away.
Here is a pic of what a 600 lbs paper weight looks like on the back of a tow truck.
I knew this day would eventually arrive, but now that it is here, I am totally bummed about it.
The scoot fires up and the engine idles and revs nicely but there is no play once the throttle is opened, the rear wheel doesn't spin
and I hear a slight clacking sound coming from the CVT.
I am inclined to think that the belt has broken but that is just an educated guess right now.
I will have to tear it down, take the CVT out and see what has gone wrong.
Planning -- Preparation
I formulated a plan of attack and put together my project details. In the end I decided to divide the project into three main parts:
1. Tupperware Removal / Installation
2. Engine Removal / Installation
3. CVT Removal / Inspection / Installation
In order to gain access to the CVT housing on the 650, you must first strip it off all its tupperware.
It sounds like a daunting task but it is rather simple if you take your time, it is basically a 25 steps process.
Next you need to separate the Engine from the frame, which is a 38 steps process, most of which is spent disconnecting electrical connections. The only difficult part of the project is removing the throttle body assembly.
You can turn your attention to the CVT assembly once you have the engine separated from the frame.
You will have to separate the CVT assembly from the engine body and crank it open to inspect its internal parts.
Tupperware Removal / Installation
Removing the body parts on the 650 is rather easy, provided you follow the OEMs recommended steps.
The table below shows the order in which I removed all the tupperware.
Each piece has its own corresponding DIY document which you can check for more detailed step by step instructions and an accompanying video.
The video below shows the the entire Burgman striptease from start to finish:
DIY - Windshield Wind Deflector (Optional)
Zip-Lock bags are you friends when it comes to storing all the removed nuts and bolts.
Use saran wrap / plastic wrap to protect the painted pieces. I wrapped all my painted pieces in saran wrap while in storage / on the shelf.
Here are some pictures of the finished tupperware project:
You are done with Phase 1.
The tupperware can be reinstalled in the reverse order of how it was taken off.
However, I found that a few things deviation from the previous removal steps could make the reinstall go a lot easier which I have outlined below along with any pertinent torque values.
I cleaned the trunk inside and out and installed it back in place and hand tightened the 8 mm bolts.
Install the seat rail and torque the bolts according to the torque values below.
There are two side M10 bolts and two top M8 bolts.
Torque value for M10 side bolt.: 36 lb-ft
Torque value for M8 side bolt..: 16.5 lb-ft
Apply Thread Lock 1360 to the M10 bolts.
Install the sub-frame brace first, it will make it easier to install the muffler bracket.
Install the muffler bracket after installing the sub-frame brace.
Torque value: 16.5 lb-ft
Attach the Left / Right Tail Lights to the Left / Right Frame Covers.
Route the cables for the Left / Right Tail Lights and connect them to the OEM harness.
Install the seat Strut before installing the right Frame Cover.
If you plan to tap into the license plate for a switched power supply system, this is the time to do it.
Tap into the wire and route your cable to the front before installing the left Frame Cover.
Install the Left / Right Frame Covers and connect the harness / bulbs to the Tail Lights.
Install the Trunk Box Cover before the Seat.
Install the Battery before installing the Seat, a lot easier without the seat in the way.
Install the Seat and connect the seat strut.
Install the Pillion Handle Bars.
The torque value is the same for all the Pillion Handle Bars.
Torque value: 16.5 lb-ft
If you plan to power the lights on your top-box, this is the time to tape into the tail light wires and install your top box power cable and route it befoe installing the Center Frame Cover.
Tap into the wires using the pictures below:
Route your top box power cable:
Install the Center Frame Cover.
Engine Removal / Installation
Now that you have all the tupperware off the scoot, it is time to turn your attention to separating the engine from the frame. This part of the project consists of 38 steps, most of which is disconnecting electrical connections.
There a number of preliminary steps that need to be done before starting the actual work on separating the frame from the engine.
Perform the following:
Disconnect the battery and put aside. Battery Replacement / Maintenance
I put mine on a trickle charger for the duration of the project.
Drain the Engine Oil. Engine Oil Change
Drain the Transmission Oil. Transmission Oil Change
Drain the Coolant. Coolant Maintenance
Drain the overflow reservoir.
Cover the CVT filter opening to keep foreign elements out
Cover the CVT Exhaust opening to keep foreign elements out
Engine Removal Steps
Remove the Air-Cleaner Box. It houses the air-filter.
Disconnect the following:
Remove the air cleaner box. Air Cleaner Box
The service manual calls for the radiator to be removed later on.
However, I found it to be more effective to remove the radiator first, thus gaining easier access to the air chamber and the throttle body assembly.
Disconnect the following: Radiator
Disconnect the radiator inlet hose
Disconnect the cooling fan switch coupler (5)
Remove the radiator:
Remove the following: IAP / IAT / PAIR Solenoid Couplers
Disconnect the vacuum hose (4) from the IAP Sensor
Loosen the throttle body clamp screws
Remove the PAIR solenoid valve (5)
Remove the air chamber (6) Air Chamber
Disconnect the throttle cables (7) Throttle Cables
Tip: I had to loose the throttle wheels 11mm bolt to free the cable anchors.
Tip: Label your cables so you know which one is the top and bottom cable.
Disconnect the injector couplers (8) Throttle Assembly
Disconnect the following:
Loosen the throttle body clamp screws
Disconnect the fuel delivery hose
Remove the throttle body assembly
Removing the throttle assembly can be a bit tricky. It would not come loose freely on my std. burgman 650 with just pure raw hand power. In the end I had to resort to a small pry bar to lever it out by putting some pressure on a solid surface at one end and using the frame as a support surface. Once I was able to loosen one end, the other end just popped out by itself.
Tip: I had to use a small pry bar to remove the throttle body.
Tip: Once the throttle body is removed, use two small plastic bags to cover the engine intake openings.
Tip: Place the throttle body inside a clean plastic bag and set it aside in a safe place.
Tip: Check the inside of the throttle body assembly and clean it if you see any build-up.
Disconnect the following:
Those were done in a previous step.
Disconnect the engine ground lead wire Engine Ground Wire
Disconnect the following: Disconnect Couplers
Disconnect the starter motor lead wire Starter Motor Wire
Disconnect the ECT sensor coupler (6) ECT Sensor
Disconnect the following: Step 23 Couplers
Disconnect the CMP sensor coupler (12) CMP Sensor / Spark PLug Couplers
Disconnect the Ignition coil/spark plug cap wires
Disconnect the generator coupler (1) Generator / HO2 sensor Couplers
Disconnect the HO2 sensor coupler (2) Generator / HO2 sensor Couplers
Remove the muffler Muffler
Tip: Place someting under the muffler before removing the 12 mm middle bolt. It is rather heavy and will fall to
ground if not supported.
Tip: Cover the engine exhause holes to keep foreign elements out once the muffler has been removed.
Remove the brake-lock cable clamp Remove Brake-lock clamp/hose clamp/caliper
Remove the Rear brake hose clamp
Remove the rear brake caliper bolts and remove the rear brake caliper (3)
Tip: I always insert a plastic shim between the brake pads on the caliper to prevent the pads from collapsing if
the rear brake is applied by accident.
Remove both sides of the rear shock absorber lower bolts (4) Remove Rear Shock Bolts
Note: The rear swing arm will drop by 1-2 inches once the shock absorber bolts are removed.
The service manual calls for removing fuel line clamps and the fuel feed hose.
I found it easier to simple remove the fuel hose line from the front of the engine and let it hang on the side of the frame. Decide for yourself what works best for you (steps 33-34).
Remove the clamps Relocate Fuel Line
I left my my line in place and didn’t bother with removing the clamps.
Undo the clamps if you deem it necessary.
Move the fuel feed hose not to interfere with the work
I opted to use a mover’s dolly with a 1000lbs capacity instead of just an engine jack so I could moved the engine around the garage. Decide what works best for you. (step 35).
At first I supported the engine with a jack and then lowered it onto the dolly and removed the jack later.
Support the Engine using an engine jack Support Engine
This is how I did mine:
Later on, I removed the center stand which allowed me to move the engine around the garage.
Remove the engine mounting bolts and nuts. Remove Engine Mounting Bolts/Nuts
Both the engine and nut are 14 mm. I would recommend using a breaker bar as the bolts are on pretty tight.
You may hear some squealing as you loosen them. All three on mine required the use of a breaker bar.
Once loose, you can use a ratchet to get them out.
The back bolt requires the use of an extension bar as it sits in a recessed area.
I had to remove the rear passenger bracket to give myself some additional operating room.
Note: The engine bolt nuts are not reusable, you will have to replace them as they lose their tigthtening
characteristics after they have been torqued to spec.
I removed the bolts in the following order:
Note: The bottom bolt has a small collar that fits between the frame and the engine, be sure to capture it and
store it safely, you will need it at assembly time.
To remove the bolts / nuts, you will have to hold the nut with a wrench / socket and loosen the bolt from the other side.
Remove the foot board bracket Remove Foot Board / Side Stand
I used a mover’s dolly to support the rear end of the frame so I could move the frame around and park it out of the way.
Remove the engine from the frame. Remove Engine from Frame
To separate the frame from the engine, do the following:
I reinstalled mine once I had removed the frame.
A few pics of what the engine and separate frame look like by themselves:
You are done with Phase 2.
Reassembly for phase 2 is basically the reverse order of the disassembly.
I am including the torque values for those steps that require torquing the bolts to spec.
I would highly recommend that you buy a torque wrench and follow the recommended specs by the OEM.
CVT Removal / Inspection / Installation
Now that the engine is separated from the frame, you can begin the process of separating the CVT assembly from the engine and split it open to inspect its internal components.
Depending on the type of damage your CVT may have sustained, you may have to perform all or part of the follwing:
A = Always C = Conditional
You will need a number of special tools as mandated by Suzuki in the service manual to remove the CVT assembly.
This DIY covers them in details: CVT Special Tools
You will need some special parts in the form of lubes, thread lock, oils and others to reassemble the CVT.
Below is the OEM materials list from the service manual:
99000-25140 --> Suzuki Moly Paste
99000-25030 --> Suzuki Super Grease
99000-32050 --> Thread Lock 1342 (needed if replacing pulley parts)
99000-32130 --> Thread Lock Super 1360 (needed for pully bolt/nut torquing)
99000-31110 --> Suzuki Bond 1215
Engine Oil -----> To lube 2ndary pulley bearing (10w-40 or whatever you use in your engine)
Here is my parts list and what I used as equivalents:
CVT Replacement Parts
Below is my CVT repair parts List:
I checked all the online OEM parts vendors and ended up buying from my favorite local Suzuki dealer in Van Nuys, California that pretty much beat all the online vendors and provided great service by double checking on everything and making sure that I got all the right parts for my specific model year.
The primary pulley has been redesigned for all model years and comes with a longer Primary Pulley Bolt and a deeper bolt housing insidne the primary pulley.
Turn around time for the parts order was about one week from the time I placed my order and had the dealer enter it into their ordering system with Suzuki.
Below are a few pics of the parts as they arrived from the warehouse.
Some detailed pictures of the different parts:
New Primary Pulley Assembly
Suzuki has redesigned the primary pulley for all model years, it uses a longer stopper bolt with a deeper receiving hole for the stopper bolt.
Below are a few pics of the old stopper bolt vs the new one:
Here a few pictures of the new redesigned Primary Pulley Assembly:
CVT Assembly Removal
The CVT assembly removal starts with the Engine removal which was described in Phase 2 of this DIY.
Below is the CVT Assembly components picture from the Service Manual:
CVT Assembly Installation
Below are the service manual steps for installing the CVT assembly back onto the engine:
Once the CVT assembly is separated from the engine it will have to be split open to inspect its internal components.
The process starts with the casing / cover.
You wll have to perform all of the steps below
Casing / Cover
The service manual calls for the following steps to be performed: