DIY - CVT Repair Project

CVT Repair Project

On my 25th, 2012 my std. Burgman 650 lost all traction as I was trying to get onto a highway onramp.

I thought I heard a slight thud and a small jerk coming from the engine and then the throttle went flat with no way to get into any gears,

it would just rev into the higher RPMs. No F1 warning or code on the display.

Shut the engine off hoping for one of those Burgman miracles wishing that somehow the ECU had gone a bit goofy. Alas the scoot was as dead as a duck stuck in ice on a cold Winter lake...

It was clear that I wasn't going anywhere, so I called a tow truck and had it towed to the house, thankfully I was just only 8 miles away.

Here is a pic of what a 600 lbs paper weight looks like on the back of a tow truck.

I knew this day would eventually arrive, but now that it is here, I am totally bummed about it.

The scoot fires up and the engine idles and revs nicely but there is no play once the throttle is opened, the rear wheel doesn't spin

and I hear a slight clacking sound coming from the CVT.

I am inclined to think that the belt has broken but that is just an educated guess right now.

I will have to tear it down, take the CVT out and see what has gone wrong.

Planning -- Preparation

I formulated a plan of attack and put together my project details. In the end I decided to divide the project into three main parts:

1. Tupperware Removal / Installation

2. Engine Removal / Installation

3. CVT Removal / Inspection / Installation

In order to gain access to the CVT housing on the 650, you must first strip it off all its tupperware.

It sounds like a daunting task but it is rather simple if you take your time, it is basically a 25 steps process.

Next you need to separate the Engine from the frame, which is a 38 steps process, most of which is spent disconnecting electrical connections. The only difficult part of the project is removing the throttle body assembly.

You can turn your attention to the CVT assembly once you have the engine separated from the frame.

You will have to separate the CVT assembly from the engine body and crank it open to inspect its internal parts.

1.	Tupperware Removal / Installation

Removing the body parts on the 650 is rather easy, provided you follow the OEMs recommended steps.

The table below shows the order in which I removed all the tupperware.

Each piece has its own corresponding DIY document which you can check for more detailed step by step instructions and an accompanying video.

The video below shows the the entire Burgman striptease from start to finish:

DIY - Burgman 650 Striptease

Step	Tupperware Description
1.	Maintenance Lid
2.	Floor Board Covers Left / Right
3.	Leg Side Cover Left
4.	Leg Side Cover Right
5.	Handlebar Covers
6.	Front Panel
7.	Front Leg Cover
8.	Lower Leg Shield
9.	Leg Shield
10.	Front Box
11.	Floor Board
12.	Lower Frame Cover
13.	Center Frame Cover
14.	Rear Fender
15.	Pillion Handle Bars
16.	Trunk Box Cover
17.	Frame Cover Left
18.	Frame Cover Right
19.	Tail Light Assembly
20.	Seat
21.	Rear Frame Brace
22.	Muffler Bracket
23.	Seat Rail
24.	Trunk Box
25.	Windshield Removal-Install-Shim (Optional)
26.	Mirrors (Optional)
Tip: Tip:	Zip-Lock bags are you friends when it comes to storing all the removed nuts and bolts. Use saran wrap / plastic wrap to protect the painted pieces. I wrapped all my painted pieces in saran wrap while in storage / on the shelf.

Here are some pictures of the finished tupperware project:

You are done with Phase 1.

Step	Tupperware Reinstallation
	The tupperware can be reinstalled in the reverse order of how it was taken off. However, I found that a few deviations from the previous removal steps could make the reinstall go a lot easier which I have outlined below along with any pertinent torque values.
24.	I cleaned the trunk inside and out and installed it back in place and hand tightened the 8 mm bolts.
23.	Install the seat rail and torque the bolts according to the torque values below. There are two side M10 bolts and two top M8 bolts. Torque value for M10 side bolt.: 36 lb-ft Torque value for M8 side bolt..: 16.5 lb-ft Apply Thread Lock 1360 to the M10 bolts.
21.	Install the subframe brace first, it will make it easier to install the muffler bracket.
22.	Install the muffler bracket after installing the subframe brace. Torque value: 16.5 lb-ft
19. 18.	Attach the Left / Right Tail Lights to the Left / Right Frame Covers. Route the cables for the Left / Right Tail Lights and connect them to the OEM harness. Install the seat Strut before installing the right Frame Cover. If you plan to tap into the license plate for a switched power supply system, this is the time to do it. Tap into the wire and route your cable to the front before installing the left Frame Cover. Install the Left / Right Frame Covers and connect the harness / bulbs to the Tail Lights.
16. 20.	Install the Trunk Box Cover before the Seat. Install the Battery before installing the Seat, a lot easier without the seat in the way. Install the Seat and connect the seat strut.
15.	Install the Pillion Handle Bars. The torque value is the same for all the Pillion Handle Bars. Torque value: 16.5 lb-ft
13.	If you plan to power the lights on your top-box, this is the time to tape into the tail light wires and install your top box power cable and route it befoe installing the Center Frame Cover. Tap into the wires using the pictures below: Route your top box power cable: Install the Center Frame Cover.

2.	Engine Removal / Installation

Now that you have all the tupperware off the scoot, it is time to turn your attention to separating the engine from the frame. This part of the project consists of 38 steps, most of which is disconnecting electrical connections.

Step

Preliminary Steps

There a number of preliminary steps that need to be done before starting the actual work on separating the frame from the engine.

Perform the following:

Disconnect the battery and put aside. Battery Replacement / Maintenance

I put mine on a trickle charger for the duration of the project.

Drain the Engine Oil. Engine Oil Change

Drain the Transmission Oil. Transmission Oil Change

Drain the Coolant. Coolant Maintenance

Drain the overflow reservoir.

Cover the CVT filter opening to keep foreign elements out

Cover the CVT Exhaust opening to keep foreign elements out

Engine Removal Steps

Remove the Air-Cleaner Box. It houses the air-filter.

Disconnect the following:

Joint hose (1)
Breather hose (2)

Remove the air cleaner box. Air Cleaner Box

Remove the Fuse Block (undo the 4 Phillips screws)
Remove the top bolt (10 mm)
Remove the bottom bolt (10 mm)
Remove the Air-Cleaner Box.

Tip:

The service manual calls for the radiator to be removed later on.

However, I found it to be more effective to remove the radiator first, thus gaining easier access to the air chamber and the throttle body assembly.

Disconnect the following: Radiator

Engine coolant breather hose (3)
Radiator hose (4)

Disconnect the radiator inlet hose

Disconnect the cooling fan switch coupler (5)

Remove the radiator:

Remove the main radiator bolt
Remove the two swivel arm radiator bolts
Remove the radiator

Remove the following: IAP / IAT / PAIR Solenoid Couplers

IAP sensor lead wire couple (1)
IAT SENSOR (2)
PAIR solenoid valve lead wire coupler (3)
Disconnect the vacuum hose

Disconnect the vacuum hose (4) from the IAP Sensor

Loosen the throttle body clamp screws

10.

Remove the PAIR solenoid valve (5)

11.

Remove the air chamber (6) Air Chamber

Remove the 10 mm bolt
Disconnect the hose at the front
Remove the side joint hose to make the removal easier
Remove the Air-Chamber

12.

Disconnect the throttle cables (7) Throttle Cables

Loosen the top throttle cable
Loosen the bottom throttle cable
Remove the cable anchors from the throttle wheel

Tip: I had to loose the throttle wheels 11mm bolt to free the cable anchors.

Tip: Label your cables so you know which one is the top and bottom cable.

13.

Disconnect the injector couplers (8) Throttle Assembly

14.

Disconnect the following:

TP SENSOR COUPLER (9)
IAC valve coupler (10)

15.

Loosen the throttle body clamp screws

16.

Disconnect the fuel delivery hose

17.

Remove the throttle body assembly

Disconnect the throttle body hoses

Removing the throttle assembly can be a bit tricky. It would not come loose freely on my std. burgman 650 with just pure raw hand power. In the end I had to resort to a small pry bar to lever it out by putting some pressure on a solid surface at one end and using the frame as a support surface. Once I was able to loosen one end, the other end just popped out by itself.

Tip: I had to use a small pry bar to remove the throttle body.

Tip: Once the throttle body is removed, use two small plastic bags to cover the engine intake openings.

Tip: Place the throttle body inside a clean plastic bag and set it aside in a safe place.

Tip: Check the inside of the throttle body assembly and clean it if you see any build-up.

18.

Disconnect the following:

Pair Hose (1)
Crankcase Breather Hose (2)

Those were done in a previous step.

19.

Disconnect the engine ground lead wire Engine Ground Wire

You will need an 8mm socket with a long extension as there is no room to operate a socket inside the engine.

20.

Disconnect the following: Disconnect Couplers

Disconnect the center stand switch lead wire coupler (1)
CVT pulley position sensor lead wire coupler (2)
CVT motor lead wire coupler (3)
CVT secondary pulley revolution sensor lead wire Coupler (4)
HO2 sensor lead wire couple (5)

21.

Disconnect the starter motor lead wire Starter Motor Wire

22.

Disconnect the ECT sensor coupler (6) ECT Sensor

23.

Disconnect the following: Step 23 Couplers

Disconnect the side-stand switch lead wire coupler (7)
Oil pressure switch lead wire coupler (8)
Oil Level switch lead wire (9)
DKP Sensor coupler (10)
Trunk light seat switch lead coupler (11)

24.

Disconnect the CMP sensor coupler (12) CMP Sensor / Spark PLug Couplers

25.

Disconnect the Ignition coil/spark plug cap wires

26.

Disconnect the generator coupler (1) Generator / HO2 sensor Couplers

After disconnecting the coupler, trace the wire and remove it and let it hang on the side as it is attached to the engine.

27.

Disconnect the HO2 sensor coupler (2) Generator / HO2 sensor Couplers

After disconnectiong the HO2 coupler, trace it downward and remove its holding loop below

28.

Remove the muffler Muffler

Remove the 6mm hex bolts connecting the muffler to the engine at the front
Remove the 12 mm muffler bolt in the middle to drop the muffler.

Tip: Place someting under the muffler before removing the 12 mm middle bolt. It is rather heavy and will

fall to the ground if not supported.

Tip: Cover the engine exhaust holes to keep foreign elements out once the muffler has been removed.

29.

Remove the brake-lock cable clamp Remove Brake-lock clamp/hose clamp/caliper

30.

Remove the Rear brake hose clamp

31.

Remove the rear brake caliper bolts and remove the rear brake caliper (3)

Rear Wheel Removal--Install

Remove the Rear Brake Caliper and let it hang on the outside of the frame until you have removed the shock absorbers.
Once the shock absorbers are removed, move the brake fluid hose to the top of the frame and let it hang there. (I zip-tied mine in place for some added security).

Tip: I always insert a plastic shim between the brake pads on the caliper to prevent the pads from collapsing if

the rear brake is applied by accident.

32.

Remove both sides of the rear shock absorber lower bolts (4) Remove Rear Shock Bolts

Remove the Left / Right 14 mm lower shock absorber bolts
Loosen the top bolts a bit so you can lift the absorber. This way they will drag on the ground when you remove the frame.

Note: The rear swing arm will drop by 1-2 inches once the shock absorber bolts are removed.

Tip:

The service manual calls for removing fuel line clamps and the fuel feed hose.

I found it easier to simple remove the fuel hose line from the front of the engine and let it hang on the side of the frame. Decide for yourself what works best for you (steps 33-34).

33.

Remove the clamps Relocate Fuel Line

I left my line in place and didn’t bother with removing the clamps.

Undo the clamps if you deem it necessary.

34.

Move the fuel feed hose not to interfere with the work

I traced the fuel line and moved it to the outside of the frame and left it clamped in place.
I zip tied mine in place so it would not get loose.

Tip:

I opted to use a mover’s dolly with a 1000lbs capacity instead of just an engine jack so I could move the engine around the garage. Decide what works best for you. (step 35).

At first I supported the engine with a jack and then lowered it onto the dolly and removed the jack later.

35.

Support the Engine using an engine jack Support Engine

Place a jack under the engine and lift it a bit so it is supported slightly. Don’t over lift it as it can cause the rear center stand to lose its balance and tip the engine/bike over.

This is how I did mine:

I place the jack under the engine.
I place the dolly over the jack
I placed a piece of wood over the dolly and lifted the engine about ¼ of an inch.
Once the frame was removed, I lowered the piece of wood supporting the engine onto the dolly.

Later on, I removed the center stand which allowed me to move the engine around the garage.

36.

Remove the engine mounting bolts and nuts. Remove Engine Mounting Bolts/Nuts

Both the engine and nut are 14 mm. I would recommend using a breaker bar as the bolts are pretty tight.

You may hear some squealing as you loosen them. All three on mine required the use of a breaker bar.

Once loose, you can use a ratchet to get them out.

The back bolt requires the use of an extension bar as it sits in a recessed area.

I had to remove the rear passenger bracket to give myself some additional operating room.

Note: The engine bolt nuts are not reusable, you will have to replace them as they lose their tightening

characteristics after they have been torqued to spec.

I removed the bolts in the following order:

Rear Bolt / Nut
Bottom Bolt / Nut / Collar
Top Bolt / Nut

Note: The bottom bolt has a small collar that fits between the frame and the engine, be sure to capture it and

store it safely, you will need it at assembly time.

To remove the bolts / nuts, you will have to hold the nut with a wrench / socket and loosen the bolt from the other side.

37.

Remove the foot board bracket Remove Foot Board / Side Stand

Remove the 12 mm footboard bolts. There are two of them.
Once removed the side stand assembly will come off.

Tip:

I used a mover’s dolly to support the rear end of the frame so I could move the frame around and park it out of the way.

38.

Remove the engine from the frame. Remove Engine from Frame

To separate the frame from the engine, do the following:

Make certain that the following couplers are all handing loosely on the side of the engine:

Hang the Rear Caliper over the frame

Remove the Engine Coolant hose so it won’t interfere with the frame removal.

I reinstalled mine once I had removed the frame.

Separate frame from the engine by lifting it at the back, moving forward as you straddle the engine. Be carefull not to lose your balance as the front end is hard to steer.
Carefully lay down the frame ahead of the engine. I had mine rest on a mover’s dolly.

A few pics of what the engine and separate frame look like by themselves:

You are done with Phase 2.

Engine Installation

Reassembly for phase 2 is basically the reverse order of the disassembly.

I am including the torque values for those steps that require torquing the bolts to spec.

I would highly recommend that you buy a torque wrench and follow the recommended specs by the OEM.

Step	Engine Installation Steps
37.	Foot Board Bracket: M8 (19 lb-ft)
36.	The engine mounting bolts must be replaced after being undone, make sure you replace them. The torque value is the same for all three bolts, top, bottom and rear. Engine Mounting Bolts / Nuts: (40.5 lb-ft)
32.	Torque the rear shock top and bottom bolts to spec. The torque value is the same for the top and bottom. Rear Shock Bolts: (21 lb-ft) Tip: Make sure the brake fluid line is properly placed behind the bottom right spring.
31.	Brake Caliper Bolts. (19 lb-ft)
30.	Brake Hose Clamp. (19 lb-ft) The rear clamp behind the spring. Hand tighten the small clamp bolts in front of the spring.
29.	Brake Lock Bolts: (19 lb-ft) Hand tighten the small clamp bolts.
28.	Muffler bolts. The torque value is the same for all of them. Muffler Bolts: (16.5 lb-ft)
17.	Reinstalling the Throttle Assembly was the most challenging part for me. Once I devised a plan on how to hold the assembly in place, using a pry bar, I was able to seat it by using a rubber hammer from the reverse side. Having the radiator out provides ample room to use the rubber hammer. You will have to remove the IAC Hose and IAC Hose Connector to gain a solid surface on top of the assembly to hold it in place and push it in. I also used a small amount of vaseline at first to get the assembly partly seated and then sprayed a bit of silicon spray now and then as I continued to seat it. Read about my second try technique below, works much better. I had to remove the assembly once more for another reason. This time around I tried a different approach, and the trick is the way you seat the assembly and the direction in which you try to seat it. I tried to seat it from above, however if you reverse the direction and go from back to front, you will have a lot more leverage. On the second try I only used a pry bar to seat the assembly. I seated it with the body partly seated at the front and then used a small pry bar pushing it against the frame and pushing on the assembly’s edges on the left, center and right, took all of but 5 minutes to get it back in, much more effective than the hammer from behind technique.
16.	Reposition the fuel line and connect it to the throttle assembly. Make sure that it is free of any defect and doesn’t come into contact with any sharp corners that could cut into it.
15.	Tighten the throttle assembly clamp screw according to the direction in the picture below:
11.	Install the air chamber onto the throttle assembly. It’s a tight fit so be patient and it will fall into place Tighten the Air Chambler clamp screws according to the picture below: Install the side hose and tighten it. It has a directional tab that needs to be positioned properly.
	Don’t forget to add coolant, engine oil and transmission oil.

3.	CVT Removal / Inspection / Installation

Now that the engine is separated from the frame, you can begin the process of separating the CVT assembly from the engine and split it open to inspect its internal components.

Depending on the type of damage your CVT may have sustained, you may have to perform all or part of the following:

CVT Repair Tasks	Removal	Disassembly	Inspect	Assembly
CVT assembly	A	A	A	A
CVT Casing - Cover	A	A	A	A
Secondary Pulley Assembly	C	C	C	A
CVT Belt Removal	C	C	C	A
Primary Pulley Assembly	C	C	C	A
Primary Pulley Shims Adjustment	C	C	C	A

A = Always C = Conditional

Special Tools

You will need a number of special tools as mandated by Suzuki in the service manual to remove the CVT assembly.

This DIY covers them in details: CVT Special Tools

Special Supplies

You will need some special parts in the form of lubes, thread lock, oils and others to reassemble the CVT.

Below is the OEM materials list from the service manual:

99000-25140 --> Suzuki Moly Paste

99000-25030 --> Suzuki Super Grease

99000-32050 --> Thread Lock 1342 (needed if replacing pulley parts)

99000-32130 --> Thread Lock Super 1360 (needed for pully bolt/nut torquing)

99000-31110 --> Suzuki Bond 1215

Engine Oil -----> To lube 2ndary pulley bearing (10w-40 or whatever you use in your engine)

Here is my parts list and what I used as equivalents:

Item	Description
Suzuki Moly Paste	I have been using Honda Moly Paste 60 for years. I had a tube on hand so I stuck with it.
Suzuki Super Grease	I used Mobile 1 Synthetic Grease which seems to be a good equivalent for the Suzuki Super Grease
Thread Lock Super 1360	I already had a bottle of Suzuki thread lock 1360 on had that I had purchased for a previous project.
Suzuki Bond 1215	I opted to use Permatex’s Ultra Grey RTV Silicone as it came highly recommended by seasoned DIYers on BUSA
Engine Oil	I used the same engine oil that I use on a regular basis in my 650. Shell Rotella 15w-40. Use whatever oil you normall use in your engine / transmission on the 650.
Dielectric Grease	I use Permatex’s dielectric grease whenever servicing electrical compoents, connectors etc...
Electrical Cleaner	I always clean my electrical connectors with some electrical cleaner prior to applying the dielectric grease
Anaerobic Sealer	You will need an anerobic sealer / gasket maker to seat the primary pulley bearing. There are a number of products availble on the market. I used Mopar’s Gasket Maker which is readily available at most Chrysler dealerships in the US.

CVT Replacement Parts

Below is my CVT repair parts List:

Item #

Item Description

Part Description

21747-10G00

21071-10G10

21751-10G00

09280-21014

21757-10500

21756-10G00

21916-10G00

27601-10G00

21077-10G00

21078-10G00

21852-10G10

08319-31103

O RING,PRI PULL

PULLEY ASSY,PRI

BEARING,PRI PUL

O RING,D:1.2,ID

Seal, Primary Pulley

BOLT,PRI FIXED

O RING,CVT CASE

V BELT,DRIVE

GEAR ASSY,ACTR

SEAL, SECONDARY

Engine Mount Nut

Primary PUlley O-Ring

Primary Pulley Assembly

Primary PUlley Bearing

Secondary Pulley Shaft O-Ring

Primary Pulley Seal

Primary Pulley Shaft Bolt

CVT Case O-Ring

CVT Belt

Primary Slide Pulley Idle Gear

Secondary Pulley Seal

Engine Mount Nuts

I checked all the online OEM parts vendors and ended up buying from my favorite local Suzuki dealer in Van Nuys, California that pretty much beat all the online vendors and provided great service by double checking on everything and making sure that I got all the right parts for my specific model year.

The primary pulley has been redesigned for all model years and comes with a longer Primary Pulley Bolt and a deeper bolt housing insidne the primary pulley.

Turn around time for the parts order was about one week from the time I placed my order and had the dealer enter it into their ordering system with Suzuki.

Below are a few pics of the parts as they arrived from the warehouse.

Some detailed pictures of the different parts:

CVT Belt:
Primary Pulley Bearing:
Primary Pulley Seal:
Primary Pulley Bolt:
Primary Pulley Slide Idle Gears:
Secondary Pulley Seal:

New Primary Pulley Assembly

Suzuki has redesigned the primary pulley for all model years, it uses a longer stopper bolt with a deeper receiving hole for the stopper bolt.

Below are a few pics of the old stopper bolt vs the new one:

Here a few pictures of the new redesigned Primary Pulley Assembly:

CVT Assembly Removal

The CVT assembly removal starts with the Engine removal which was described in Phase 2 of this DIY.

Below is the CVT Assembly components picture from the Service Manual:

Step	Description
1.	Remove the bracket in front of the right center stand leg. Remove the bottom 12 mm bolt Remove the top 14 mm bolt (One of the CVT guides will bolt into this hole) Remove the bracket Remove Bracket
2.	Remove the other two bolts. The remaining two CVT guides will be bolted in these slots. Remove the other 14 mm bolts Remove CVT Bolts
3.	Install the special tool as shown 09920-31050 CVT Guide Install the CVT guides in place Install CVT Guides Note: The threads on my DIY guides didn’t thread easily into the engine casing so I used the engine mounting bolts instead. The downside is that you have to unthread them before removing the CVT assembly.
4.	Remove the remaining CVT mounting bolts Remove the 14 mm top bolt Remove the 14 mm middle bolt Remove the 14 mm bottom bolt Remove CVT Bolts
5.	Remove the CVT assembly Use a small pry bar to start the CVT assembly separation Insert the pry bar between the engine and the CVt casing and apply outward pressure You should see a gap appear between the engine and the CVTassembly Don’t use force, repeat the outward motion with the pry bar and the gap will continue to grow Once the CVT assembly becomes loose, it will glide onto the CVT guides Grab the CVT Assembly with both hands and slide it off the CVT guides Remove CVT Assembly Note: I placed a block of wood under the CVT assembly so I could put it down once it came off the guides. I had to undo the replacement CVT guides first (as I had used the engine mounting bolts). I had forgotten to disconnect the center stand switch cable from the cvt assembly, do that first.

CVT Assembly Installation

Below are the service manual steps for installing the CVT assembly back onto the engine:

Step	Description
	I performed the following preparation steps to get ready for the CVT Assembly installation: Clean the engine side area around the Primary Pulley and Secondary Pulley Housings
1.	Remove the valve timing inspection cap (1) Remove the valve timing inspection cap with a 10 mm hex socket / key and set it aside. Remove Valve Timing Cap
2.	Apply Moly Paste I used Honda’s Moly paste instead of Suzuki’s. I have been using it for years with great success. Apply an even coat of Moly Paste to Secondary pulley splines on the engine side. Apply an even coat of Moly Paste to the Primary Pulley splines on the engine side. Moly Paste Fully Applied Apply an even coat of Moly Paste to the Secondary Pulley Shaft adapter splines. Apply an even coat of Moly Paste to the Primary Pulley Shaft adapter Splines. Moly paste fully applied to both adapters I added an additional personal step to the CVT Assembly installation. You don’t have to perform this procedure if you see no value in it, it is not an Suzuki recommended step. I applied a thin layer of Anaerobic Sealant / Gasket maker to the outer rim of the Primary Pulley area on the CVT assembly which will press against the engine casing. I am hoping this will help form a good seal to keep any water and other foreign material from migrating in to the primary pulley bearing area on the CVT Assembly. Apply Moly Paste 99000-25140: Suzuki Moly Paste
3.	Install the special tool to the engine assembly as shown I made a new set of CVT Guides from some old Engine Mount Bolts. I cut off the bolt heads, rounded the heades and polished them. Install the CVT Guides in their respective locations. Install CVT Guides 09920-31050 CVT Guide I also removed the CVT cover on the left side of the engine in order to have a clear view of the splines on the engine side and to make sure that they lined up properly with those on the CVT Assembly. Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the CVT cap in place Once the cap is removed, you should have a clear view to the other side through the engine.
4.	Install the CVT Assembly onto the Engine Carefully slide the CVT Assembly onto the CVT Guides Push the CVT Assembly forward until it makes contact with the engine. Turn the engine via the crankshaft if necessary to line up and engage the splines on the CVT assembly with those on the engine side. Install CVT Assembly
5.	Install the bracket (2) and the CVT bolts. Install the bracket using a 14mm socket for the CVT bolt and a 12 mm socket for the center stand bolt.
6.	Replace each CVT guide with its corresponding CVT Assembly bolt Remove one CVT Guide at a time and replace it with its corresponding CVT Bolt.
7.	Tighten the CVT mounting bolts to the specified torque: Set your torque wrench to 36 lb-ft and torque all the CVT mounting bolts to spec Steps 5-7 CVT mounting bolt: 50 N-m (5.0 kgf, 36.0 lb-ft)
8.	Install the valve timing inspection cap (3) Reinstall the Valve Timing Inspection cap using a 10 mm hex socket or key
9.	Install the CVT cap on the left side Reinstall the CVT cap on the left side Hand tighten the 10 mm bolts Note: I put a thin bead of clear silicone around the rim of the cap to make it watertight.
10.	Install the Engine (Revers order of Phase 2)

CVT Disassembly

Once the CVT assembly is separated from the engine it will have to be split open to inspect its internal components.

The process starts with the casing / cover.

You wll have to perform all of the steps below

Casing / Cover

The service manual calls for the following steps to be performed:

Step	Removal
1.	Remove the pulley position sensor (1) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the top and bottom PPS screws Grab the PPS and pull it out Bag the PPS for safe keeping Remove PPS
2.	Remove the secondary pulley revolution sensor (2) Remove the 10 mm bolt Using a small flat head screwdriver, loosen the sensor Pull the sensor all the way out Uncouple the cable Bag the sensor for safe keeping Remove Secondary Pulley Revolution Sensor
3.	Remove the CVT motor Remove the top / bottom 8mm bolts Grab the CVT motor and pull it out Bag the motor for safe keeping Remove CVT Motor
4.	Remove the CVT filter cover Remove the four 8 mm bolts There are two wire grabs on the left top/bottom bolts. Remove CVT Filter Cover
5.	Remove the CVT Filter Remove the 8 mm bolts holding the filter in place Remove CVT Filter
6.	Remove the secondary pulley shaft nut by holding the shaft with the special tools You will need a special tool to hold the shaft while undoing the nut. I opted to use a DIY tool instead of the OEM Suzuki tool. Check the CVT Special Tools for all the detailed information on the special tools. You will also need an impact gun, be it electric or air operated. This particular nut is torqued at 165 lb-ft, not sure how well an extension handle would work, plus you run the risk of stripping the nut. You will also need a 34 mm socket to remove the pulley nut. 09920-31020: Extension Handle 09920-31030: CVT Secondary Pulley Shaft Holder Carefully place the special tool shaft holder over the pulley adapter’s teeth and tighten it Connect the 34 mm socket to your impact gun and place it over the shaft nut While holding the special tool with one hand, undo the nut, it should come off with a few short bursts Remove Secondary Pulley Shaft Nut
7.	Remove the secondary shaft adaptor with a bearing puller The service manual calls for a bearing puller to remove the pulley adapter. However, I found it to be rather unstable and prone to slippage. Another alternative is to use a platform style puller / bearing separator which provides a much more stable platform to get the job done. Check the CVT Special Tools for all the detailed information on the special tools. You will also need an impact gun, be it electric or air operated. This particular nut is torqued at 165 lb-ft, not sure how well an extension handle would work, plus you run the risk of stripping the nut. Install the puller tool around the base of the pulley adapter Complete the puller tool assembly Place a socket or a spacer on top of the shaft collar Place a piece of solid metal on top of the socket / spacer Hand tighten the puller tool’s extraction lever / arm While holding the puller tool at is base, apply torque to the extraction lever / arm to force the pulley adapter off the shaft Clean and bag the adapter for safe keeping Remove Secondary Pulley Adapter
8.	Remove the primary pulley shaft bolt by holding the primary pulley shaft with the special tools: You will need a special tool to hold the shaft while undoing the bolt. I opted to use a DIY tool instead of the OEM Suzuki tool. Check the CVT Special Tools for all the detailed information on the special tools. You will also need an impact gun, be it electric or air operated, it will make the task much easier and allow you to have a good grip on the special tool while holding the shaft. I tried an extension bar at first and found it rather inconvenient and rather difficult to hold the special tool while trying to untorque the bolt. You will also need a 34 mm socket to remove the pulley nut. 09920-31010: CVT Primary PUlley Shaft Holder 09920-31030: Extension Handle Place the special tool over the pulley adapter’s teeth and tighten it Undo the 17 mm bolt using a corresponding socket attached to your impact gun A few short bursts of the impact gun should get the job done Remove Primary Pulley Bolt
9.	Screw in the special tool and remove the primary pulley shaft adapter I used the smaller pulley puller from the kit I bought from Harbor Freight to remove the Primary Pulley Adapter. It fit perfectly and made the job quick and easy. You will need to find a small tool to sit inside the shaft opening without damaging the inner threads. As luck would have it I had a piece from another kit that fit perfectly, it’s called a Button. Check the CVT Special Tools for all the detailed information on the special tools. You will also need an impact gun, be it electric or air operated. It will make quick work of removing the adapter. 09920-31040: CVT Primary PUlley Shaft Adaptor Remover Install the pulley puller tool around the Primary Pulley Adapter Insert the Button or equivalent inside the Primary Pulley adaptor, it should sit snugly on top of the shaft Tighten the pulley extraction arm Using an impact gun, apply steady continuous bursts until the adapter comes loose Remove the adapter Clean and bag the adapter for safe keeping Remove Primary Pulley Adapter
	Removed Parts
	You should end up with an assembly that looks like this: Right Side ------------------ Left Side
10.	Separate the CVT assembly by using 6mm screws CVT Case / Cover Separation Tool: 12 mm socket extension bar Place the CVT Assembly vertically on a workbench and secure it in place Loosen the 12 bolts CVT Case/Cover bolts Remove the 12 loosened bolts Note: The CVT casing bolts come in three size, they are located on the right side of the assembly: - 6 short ones - 3 long ones - 1 extra long one You will need three 6 mm x 1.00 x 40-60 mm screws to separate the CVT cover from the case: 3mm Bolts Tool: 10 mm socket Locate the three pre-drilled slots on the cover Screw in the the three 6 mm bolts into the three pre-drilled slots on the CVT cover Thread all three in fully until they bottom out Thread in each 6 mm bolts a few turns at a time, 3 to 4 turns The cover should start to separate from the case Continue the cover / case separation until the gap reaches about 1 inches Place the CVT assembly horizontally on its right side, the side that faces away from the engine. Continue threading the 6 mm bolts from The cover should separate from the case holding the pulleys Once completely loose, lift the cover and separate it from the case Put the cover aside, (place a paper towel under it Was able to remove the idle gears from the CVT cover and reinstalled them in the CVT case where they belong The pic below shows the CVT case / Cover as they would normally look when separated: Note: When separating the CVT assembly, position the right side facing downward Cover the CVT case / cover until you are ready to work on it:
11.	After separating the CVT assembly, remove the CVT casing with the special tool I didn’t need to use a special tool to separate the cover from the case The 6mm bolts worked like a charm and separated the two pieces with very little effort 09920-13120: Crankcase separator Caution: The crankcase separator plate is parallel with the end face of the CVT crankcase. Caution: When servicing the inside of the CVT assembly, make sure to wear clean protective gloves
12.	Remove the dowel pins. My dowel pins were stuck in place so I just left them in. No point in trying to force the mount. If you are replacing the CVT case or cover, order new dowels.
Step	Inspection
1.	Replace the oil seal (1) with a new one Caution: Replace the oil seal every time the CVT assembly is separated.
2.	Rotate the bearing using your finger to inspect for abnormal play, noise or smooth rotation
3.	Replace the bearing if there is anything unusual Go to Disassembly section.
4.	Replace the O-ring with a new one
5.	Apply Suzuki Super Grease “A” to the new O-ring and install it. 99000-25030: Suzuki Super Grease “A”
6.	Thoroughly clean the case/cover removing any dirt, sealant, foreign matters
Step	Disassembly
	If you have a faulty bearing that needs replacing, perform the following steps below. Start by securing the CVT Case in place on your workbench, I use a strap to hold mine in place.
1.	Remove the Primary Pulley Seal In order to get to the bearing, you must first remove the Primary Pulley Seal. It is possible to get the seal out unscaved with a bit of patience. I had planned to replaced it with a new one so I was not worried about damaging it. I used a tire iron to gently lift the seal out of its housing inside the CVT case Remove Primary Pulley Seal
2.	Remove the bearing retainer (1) You will need a philips #3 screw driver. Unscrew the two philips bolts and remove the bearing retainer. Remove Bearing Retainer
3.	Remove the bearing with the special tool. Remove Primary Pulley Bearing You will need a bearing puller to get the Primary Pulley Bearing out of the CVT Case. Extract the bearing using a bearing puller on the inside of the CVT case. Install the puller and turn the puller arm until the bearing is extracted. This is what the old Primary Pulley Bearing looked like: The bearing had completely failed as you can see in the pics below: A few pictures of the primary pulley bearing housing inside the CVT Case after the bearing was extracted: Note: I saw evidence of the grey sealant having been used inside the primary pulley bearing housing as it was seated at the factory. The service manual makes no mention of using the same grey sealant when installing a new bearing. After extracting the bearing I spend a good deal of time cleaning and polishing the bearing housing inside the CVT case. 09921-20240: Bearing remover set
4.	Remove the bearing together with the oil seal by using the special tool. My Secondary Pulley bearing was in good condition and didn’t require replacing. I will be replacing the oil seal when I reassemble the CVT Assembly. 09913-70210: Bearing installer set
Step	Assembly
	Perform the following if the bearing has been removed / replaced:
	Parts - Assembly
1.	Install the bearing with the special tool I performed the following to install the new primary pulley bearing: Place the CVT case on your work area and secure it in place so it won’t move around Clean the Primary Pulley Bearing Housing. I used 50% rubbing alcohol. Apply a thin layer of sealant / gasket maker to the inside of the bearing housing and the outer diameter of the bearing. Thumb press the new bearing into the bearing housing. I used a large washer, large socket and a small hammer to seat the bearing. Place the large spacer over the bearing. Place the large socket on the outer perimeter / edge of the spacer. Seat the bearing by working your way around the perimeter of the spacer, shifting one side to the other until the bearing is fully seated. Verify that the bearing is properly seated by placing the bearing retainer in place. Check the engine side for proper fit. Install Primary Pulley Bearing 09913-70210: Bearing installer set
2.	Install the bearing retainer (1) Clean the seating area with rubbing alcohol. Line up the bearing retainer with the drilled holes in the case. Install the two retaining screws and hand tighten them. You should end up with a clean install looking like this: Install Bearing Retainer
3.	Install the primary pulley bearing seal You will need the following tools: I used a small hammer and a flat piece of wood. I taped the one side to protect the seal from getting scratched. Clean the housing with rubbing alcohol. Thumb press the new oil seal in place. Finish seating the oil seal using a flat piece of wood and a small hammer This is what the finished install should look like, the seal should be flush with the rim of the housing: Install Bearing Seal
4.	Install the secondary bearing oil seal and bearing with the special tool The bearing in my case was in good condition and didn’t require replacing. The oil seal must be replaced whenever the CVT case is opened for maintenance. I used a small hammer and an empty pills bottle to seat the oil seal: I performed the following to replace the secondary oil seal: Secure the CVT case to the work bench. Extract the oil seal using a large flat head screwdriver or an equivalent tool. I used a tire iron and used a piece of sponge to protect the case from getting scratched. Clean the seating surfaces for the oil seal. Thumb press the new oil seal into place. Finish seating the oil seal using a small hammer if necessary. Once done, you should end up with a seated seal that looks like this: Install Secondary Pulley Oil Seal 09913-70210: Bearing installer set
Step
	Perform the following to put the CVT casing / cover back together:
1.	Wipe the CVT casing / cover mating surface with a cleaning solvent Clean the mating surfaces of the CVT case / cover and remove all the remnants of the old grey sealant. I used 1200 wet/dry emery cloth to polish the mating surfaces of the CVT case / Cover and gave it a thorough cleaning using 50% rubbing alcohol.
2.	Fit the dowel pins I had left mine in place as they were fused in place by heat. Install Dowels
3.	Install the Primary Pulley Shaft O-ring Clean the Primary Pulley shaft Carefully install the o-ring on the bottom slot/groove on the shaft Install Primary Pulley Shaft O-Ring
4.	Apply a small quantity of Suzuki Super Grease to the grease groove (A) of the primary pulley shaft Carefully apply a small quantity of grease to groove (A) above the shaft o-ring Wipe off any excess grease, there should be none below groove (A) Apply Super Grease to Groove (A) 99000-25030: Suzuki Super Grease “A” Caution: Do not apply grease under the groove (A)
5.	Cover the secondary pulley shaft with a vinyl film to prevent oil seal damage I cut the index finger of a plastic glove which fit perfectly over the secondary pulley shaft. Make sure that it is not on too tight and can come off easily. Cover Secondary Shaft with plastic
6.	Apply a small quantity of engine oil to the main lip (B) of the oil seal Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the inner lip of the oil seal using an applicator Apply Engine OIl to Oil Seal Engine Oil
7.	Install CVT Case Secondary Pulley O-Ring Remove the old O-Ring Clean the O-Ring housing Apply super grease to the O-Ring and install it. Install CVT Case O-Ring 99000-25030: Suzuki Super Grease “A”
8.	Apply Suzuki Bond “1215” to the mating surface of the CVT casing Carefully apply a thin beed / string of sealant over the entire CVT Case rim as shown in the picture below: I used Permatex Ultra Grey instead of Suzuki’s. Apply Sealant to CVT Case rim 99000-3110: Suzuki Bond “1215” Note: Make sure that all the surfaces are free from moisture, oil, dust and other foreign materials Spread on surfaces thinly to form an even layer, and assemble the CVT casing and cover within a few minutes, do let the bonding agent dry.
9.	Carefully join the CVT cover/ casing pieces together Place the CVT Cover on a flat workbench Make sure it is stable and will not move during the CVT Case / Cover coupling / joining. Carefully place the CVT case over the CVT cover lining up the secondary pulley shaft and the primary pulley shaft with their respective bearings. Slide the CVT case over the shafts and seat it in place. Use a small rubber mallet to fully seat the cover by hammering around its perimiter. Join CVT Cover with CVT Case
10.	Install and tighten the CVT cover bolts diagonally and torque them to spec You will need the following tools: Torque Wrench 12 mm socket Extension bar Unpack the CVT Case / Cover bolts and clean them for assembly. Hand install all the bolts. The bottom center bolt has a cable clamp. Note: Fit the clamp to the bolt (A) Finish by torquing the bolts to the recommended torque value, (16.0 lb-ft), in a criss-cross diagonal fashion starting with the top right bolt and the lower left bolt. Continue torquing all the bolts. Install CVT Assembly Bolts CVT cover bolt: 22 N-m (2.2 kgf, 16.0 lb-ft)
Note:	Don’t proceed with the remaining steps until the sealant has had time to cure for at least 24 hours.
11.	Apply Suzuki Super Grease “A” to the primary pulley shaft adapter Apply a light coating of Super grease to the inside of the primary pulley adapter I used a Q-Tip to apply the grease, don’t over do it. 99000-25030: Suzuki Super Grease “A”
12.	Instll the primary pulley shaft adaptor with the special tool I didn’t have the Suzuki Special tools so I made my own DIY installation tool which was made of a long bolt that screwed into the shaft, a stack of spacers made from a socket, pvc pipe and a bunch of washer to adjust the height and a couple of nuts. You will have to hold the shaft to keep it from spinning, I used my trust pipe wrench that I had used to remove the adapter in the first place. I performed the following to seat the secondary pulley adapter: Place the CVT Assembly over a flat surface and secure it in place. Screw the bolt onto the shaft. Place the primary pulley adapter over the bolt. Line up the teeth on the adapter with those on the shaft and hand push it in. Assemble the rest of the installation tool. Tighten the nut from the top while holding the adapter with the pipe wrench. Continue tightening the nut until the adapter is fully seated. Remove the installation tool and check the base of the adapter, it should be fully seated. On mine there was a 1 mm gap between the inner race of the primary pulley bearing and the base of the adapter. Install Pulley Shaft Adapter 00910: Bearing Puller or 09913-61110: Bearing Puller or 09913-61510: Bearing Puller
13.	Apply Thread Lock Super “1360” to the primary pulley shaft bolt If you are going to use the old adapter bolt, make sure that it is free of any cured thread lock. Use a tooth pick or a small needle to remove the old thread lock between the bolt threads. I had ordered a new bolt. Clean the Bolt Apply an even coat of thread lock to the threads on the bolt 99000-32130: Thread Lock Super “1360”
14.	Tighten the primary pulley shaft bolt to the specified torque with the special tools Place the CVT Assembly on a flat work surface and tie it to the work bench. Hand tighten the Primary Pulley Bolt. Install the special tool to hold the Primary Adapter While holding the Primary Adapter with the special tool, Torque the Primary Pulley Bolt to spec 46.5 lb-ft. Install Primary Pulley Adapter Bolt Primary Pulley Shaft Bolt: 64 N-m (6.4 kgf, 46.5 lb-ft) Primary Pulley Shaft Bolt: 93 N-m (9.3 kgf, 67.5 lb-ft) ) 05+ models 09920-31010: CVT Primary PUlley Shaft Holder 09920-31030: Extension Handle
15.	Apply a small quantity of engine oil to the secondary pulley bearing Apply a small quantity of engine oil to the secondary pulley bearing. Apply Engine Oil to Secondary Bearing Engine Oil
16.	Apply grease to the secondary pulley shaft adaptor Apply a small quantity of super grease to the inside of the secondary pulley adapter. I used a Q-Tip to apply the grease, don’t overdo it. 99000-25030: Suzuki Super Grease “A”
17.	Install the special tool onto the secondary pulley shaft I didn’t have the Suzuki Special tools so I made my own DIY installation tool which was made of a long bolt that screwed into the shaft, a stack of spacers made from a socket, pvc pipe and a bunch of washer to adjust the height and a couple of nuts. Clean the secondary pulley shaft and surrounding area. Screw the bolt into the secondary shaft. Place the secondary shaft adapter over the bolt. Line up the teeth on the adapter with those on the shaft and hand push it in to get it started. 09910-32850: Crankshaft installer attachment
18.	Press in the secondary pulley shaft adaptor with the special tool You will have to hold the shaft to keep it from spinning, I used my trust pipe wrench that I had used to remove the adapter in the first place. Assemble the rest of the installation tool. Tighten the nut from the top while holding the shaft adapter with the special tool (pipe wrench) Continue tightening the nut until the adapter is fully seated in place. Remove the installation tool and double check everything. Insall Secondary Pulley Adapter 09910-32812: Crankshaft installer
19.	Apply Thread Lock Super “1360” to the secondary pulley shaft nut Place the CVT Assembly on a stable work surface and tie it down so it will not move. Thoroughly clean shaft nut and the shaft threads. Remove any old thread lock remnant. Apply Thread Lock 1360 to the secondary pulley shaft nut Hand tighten the secondary pulley shaft 99000-32130: Thread Lock Super “1360”
20.	Tighten the secondary pulley shaft nut to the specified torque with the special tools You will need a torque wrench that is capable of torquing a nut/bolt to 163.5 lb-fb. You will need the special tool to hold the secondary pulley adapter while torquing the nut. You will need a 34mm socket. Below is my tool setup for this step: - Torque wrench - Socket Adapter - Special Tool with extension bar - 34 mm socket Install the special tool with the extension bar onto the secondary shaft adapter. Set the torque wrench to 163.5 lb-ft. Connect the 34mm socket to the torque wrench. Place the 34mm socket over the secondary pulley shaft nut. Push against the special tool with your body while torquing the nut to spec. Torque Secondary Pulley Nut Primary Pulley Shaft Bolt: 226 N-m (22.6 kgf, 163.5 lb-ft) 09920-31020: CVT Secondary PUlley Shaft Holder 09920-31030: Extension Handle
21.	Clean the CVT filter by using compressed air Clean the CVT filter as instructed. Note: If you don’t have a compressor, you can use a can of compressed air.
22.	Install the CVT filter Place the CVT Filter inside the CVT Filter housing. Hand tighten the 8mm bolts
23.	Install the CVT filter cover Place the CVT cover over the CVT filter Hand tighten the 8mm bolts. The clamps are mounted on the left top/bottom bolts.
24.	Fit the clamp to the bolts (A) Route the Secondary Pulley Revolution Sensor cable along the CVT filter cover. Install CVT Filter / Cover
25.	Install the CVT motor Position the CVT motor inside its housing on the CVT assembly. Make sure the gears mesh/engage with those inside the CVT assembly. Hand tighten the 8mm bolts. Install CVT Motor Note: Pay attention to the direction of the CVT motor, the cable should point to the Left.
26.	Install the secondary pulley revolution sensor Clean the Secondary Pulley Revolution Sensor Place it inside its housing on the CVT Assembly Push it in, it has a built-in rubber seal, so it will take some force to seat it. Hand tighten the 8mm bolt. Route the cable under the assembly to the other side along the CVT Filter cover. Install Secondary Pulley Revolution Sensor
27.	Install the pulley position sensor (1) with the sensor pushed toward the primary shaft side Clean the Primary Pulley Position Sensor. Insert the PPS inside its housing on the CVT Assembly. Hold it in place and hand tighten the 8mm bolts. Make sure that the PPS cable faces to the right. Install Primary Pulley Sensor

Secondary Pulley Assembly

Step	Removal
1.	Remove the washer (1) on the secondary pulley shaft I left mine on, didn’t see any reason to remove it.
2.	Turn the primary slide pulley idle gear clockwise and open the primary pulley fully
3.	Remove the primary slide pulley idle gear (2) and (3)r
4.	Place a piece of clean rag on the primary pulley faces to prevent them from scratches
5.	Remove the secondary pulley assembly Remove Secondary Pulley My secondary pulley was stuck in place and would not come out by just pulling on it so I had to devise an extraction tool to remove it. You will need the following: 12 mm x 1.25 x 100 mm bolt 12 mm x 12.5 nut 2 ½ inch washers 3 pieces of wood, two for the sides and one cross bar with a drilled hole in the middle Do the following: Thread the 12 mm x 1.25 bolt into the secondary shaft Place the side bars on the edge of the CVT casing Place the cross bar over bolt and let it rest on the side bars Place the washers over the bolt and thread in the nut Using a wrench, thread the nut until the secondary pulley comes loose The secondary pulley on my std 2004 model has a blue coating on its top plate and on the outside of the inner shaft which is different from later year models. A few close up pictures of the secondary pulley housing inside the CVT case: Caution: Use caution not to cause scratches on the pulley surfaces and to their contact
Step	Inspection
1.	Inspect the secondary pulley faces for any abnormal conditions such as scratches or stepped wear
2.	If any Damages are found, replace the secondary pulley assembly with a new one
3.	Check that the secondary pulley faces are free from any greasy substances Caution: If the surface is found greasy, make sure to degrease it thoroughly
4.	Rotate the bearing outer race with your finger for abnormal play, noise or uneven rotation
5.	Inspect the secondary pulley fan for cracks or damage
6.	Replace the bearing or secondary pulley fan if there is anything unusual
Step	Disassembly
	My Secondary Pulley was in good shape and did not require replacing or a new bearing or fan. Perform the steps below if you have to upgrade a part on yours.
1.	Remove the secondary pulley fan (1)
2.	Remove the snap ring (2) 09900-06107: Snap ring Pliers
3.	Remove the bearing with a bearing puller
Step	Reassembly
1.	Fit the special tool and install a new bearing by a hydraulic press 09913-75810: Bearing Installer
2.	Install the snap ring 09900-06107: Snap ring Pliers
3.	Apply Thread Lock “1341” to the secondary pulley fan bolts and tighten them 09900-32050: Thread Lock “1342”
Step	Installation
1.	Install the secondary pulley assembly Clean the Secondary Pulley bearing housing with rubbing alcohol. Apply Anti-Seize to the inside of the secondary pulley bearing housing. Using a small brush, apply a thik coating of the anti-seize to the inside of the secondary pulley bearing housing. Note: I applied the anti-seize before installing the CVT Belt. This way you don’t run the risk of accidentally getting any on the Belt. Completely clean the Secondary Pulley from grease or any foregin matters Clean the Secondary Pulley washer Grab the Secondary Pulley and carefully place it between the rag on the Primary Pulley and the CVT bet. Squeeze the CVT belt to help it move inside the secondary pulley With the belt properly positioned between the two pulleys, gently seat the secondary pulley bearing inside the bearing housing. Install Secondary Pulley
2.	Remove the rags Remove the protective rag(s) Check to make sure that the secondary pulley is firmly seated. Caution: Degrease the secondary pulley faces completely Use caution not to cause scratches on the pulley surfaces, make sure they don’t come into contact with one another
3.	Check that the secondary pulley is located inward relative to the primary pulley Make sure that the secondary pulley is properly seated, there should be a 2mm gap between the primary and secondary pulley surfaces. In other words the secondary should seat below the primary pulley. Check Secondary Pulley Position
4.	Check that the CVT belt is in parallel with the CVT cover mating face Visually check the line-up between the CVT belt and the rim of the CVT cover. Check CVT Belt Alignment
5.	Install the primary slide pulley idle gear (1) and (2) Align Idle Gears (1) and (2) Start by cleaning the idle gear housings for idle gears (1) and (2) Install the (1) primary slide pulley idle gear (the short one) Install the (2) primary slide pulley idle gear (the long one) Make sure that the idle gears (1) and (2)are correctly inter-meshed at the top. Make sure that the idle gear (2) is correctly inter-meshed with the primary pulley gear.
6.	Turn the idle gear until the primary pulley face just touch the CVT belt Turn the idle gear (2) to the left until the pulley surface makes contact with the cvt belt. You will know it when it happens as it gets rather hard to turn the idle gear any further. Turn Idle Gear (2) to Close Primary Pulley
7.	Check the CVT belt movement for smooth rotation by turning both pulleys Turn the belt by holding both pullies and turning them to the left. The Belt should flow smoothly and you should not feel any resistance or any kind of metal hitting metal. I used the arrow guide as a marker and performed a full rotation of the CVT belt. Check the CVT Belt movement
8.	Install the secondary pulley washer (3) Clean and install the secondary pulley washer. Install Secondary Pulley Washer

CVT Belt

Step	Removal
	My CVT belt was obliterated and there wasn’t much left of it to be removed the traditional way using the service manual steps. Below are a few pics of what I found when I cranked open the CVT assembly: If your CVT belt is intact, perform the following after removing the secondary pulley assembly: Make sure that you are wearing clean protective gloves whenever you handle the CVT belt.
1.	Remove the Secondary Pulley by following the removal instructions for the pulley.
2.	Place a piece of clean rag on the CVT cover mating face to prevent the CVT belt from scratches
3.	Remove the CVT belt
4.	Notice the direction mark on the CVT belt
	Note: If you are only replacing the CVT belt, it is not necessary to remove the primary pulley.
	Inspection
1.	Make sure that the drive belt is grease free
2.	Inspect the CVT belt for cracks or uneven wear
3.	If any damage is found, replace the CVT belt with a new one
	Note: Do not spray a cleaning solvent directly on the CVT belt
Step	Installation
1.	Install the Primary Pulley Assembly first by following the assembly/installation instructions for it. Make sure that the CVT Cover is completely clean and freee of all foreign elements.
2.	Install the primary slide pulley idle gear temporarily I skipped the slide pulley idle gear step and just turned the pulley with my finger
3.	Turn the idle gear clockwise and open the primary pulley fully I turned the pulley by using my figer and turning the pulley to the left. It will come to a stop once the pulley is fully open. Fully open Primary Pulley
4.	Place a piece of clean rag on the CVT casing mating face to prevent the cvt belt from scratches Place a rag over the CVT cover to protect the CVT Belt I also placed an additional rag on the opposite side just to be sure. Place Protective Rag
5.	Install the CVT belt so that the direction mark on the CVT belt point in the normal turning direction A few pictures of the new CVT Belt: Install CVT Belt Pay special attention to the directional arrow on the CVT Belt, it should be pointing to the LEFT when holding the CVT belt. Carefully place the CVT belt between the covered CVT Cover and Primary Pulley’s edge. Gently push down on the Belt until it is inserted between the pulley surfaces. Caution: Never touch the side walls of the CVT belt.
6.	Place a piece of clean rag on the primary pulley faces to prevent them from scratches Place Protective Rag Over Pulley Remove the rag that was placed between the CVT Cover and the Primary Pulley Place a rag on the opposite side of the Primary Pulley to protect it from possibly getting scratched when the Secondary pulley is installed.
7.	Install the Secondary Pulley by following the installation instructions for it.

Primary Pulley Assembly

Depending on the type of damage your CVT has experienced, you may have to remove the primary pulley assembly for inspection / repair.

Note: If you are only replacing the CVT belt, it may not be necessary to remove the primary pulley assembly.

Note: I would recommend taking the Primary Pulley out and inspecting the CVT housing, shim and o-ring since

you already have everything apart.

Step

Removal

Remove the primary pulley stopper bolt (1)

Place the CVT case on a flat surface
Using a 14mm socket remove the Primary Pulley Stopper Bolt

Inspect the bolt for wear and replace it if necessary.

The bolt in the pictures above only had 4k miles on it. However, I had previously replaced the bolt at 32k miles and was in a similar condition.

Remove the primary pulley assembly

Holding the CVT case with one hand, wiggle out the Primary Pulley Assembly

Note: My Primary Pulley was stuck in place and would not come out by just pulling on it.
I had to improvise and put together an extraction plan to get the pulley out of its housing.

At first I tried the same approach used to remove the Secondary pulley.

Alas I was only able to lift the primary for a mere 1/8th of an inch and got stuck after that.

You will need the following for this approach:

12 mm x 1.25 x 100 mm bolt
Washers
2 four inches side support bars
2 x 4 x 12 inches cross bar with hole drilled in the middle
Heat Gun

Do the following:

Apply heat to the CVT housing from the outside at its base
Place the side bars on a solid surface on the sides of the CVT case
Place the cross bar over the support bars
Thread the bolt onto the primary pulley shaft
Using a wrench start to tighten the bolt thus lifting the primary pulley off its housing.

I next put together a slider hammer solution which did the trick for me, and allowed me to remove the

Primary pulley.

I didn’t have a 12mm x 1.25 adapter for my slide hammer, so I improvised combing parts from my pulley

puller kit and slide hammer kit and ended up with the following:

Note: I would not recommend this same approach if you are not replacing the primary pulley.

My pulley needed replacing so I wasn’t worried about damaging the shaft on it.

Once the Primary pulley comes loose, just lift it up and remove it from the CVT case.

Remove the shim (1) and O-ring (2)

Reach in and lift the shim out of the Primary Pulley housing
Using a small flat head screwdriver, extract the O-Ring

Step

Inspection

Check that the primary pulley faces are free from any greasy substance

Clean the primary pulley surfaces with either rubbing alcohol or disc brake pad cleaner

Caution: If the surface is found greasy, make sure to degrease it thoroughly

Inspect the primary pulley faces for any abnormal conditions

After cleaning the primary pulley surfaces, turn your attention to the entire assembly and inspect it for unusual wear patterns.

My primary pulley had suffered what is commonly refered to as stepping wear at the base of the shaft and had a melted shaft o-ring as can be seen in the pics below:

Inspect the rest of the primary pulley:

Open and close the primary pulley making sure that it operates freely and correctly:

Remove Primary Pulley Primary Pulley in Action

If any damages are found, replace the primary pulley assembly with a new one.

The primary pulley bearing on my CVT failed which led to the dreaded step wear on the primary pulley shaft. As a result I had to order a new primary pulley assembly.

Suzuki has redesigned the Primary Pulley Assembly. They made a few small engineering changes and increased the length of the stopper bolt with a deeper stopper bolt slot on the assembly.

The new part number for all model years as of this writing in 2012 is 21070-10810 .

Below are a few pictures of what the new and old primary pulley assemblies along with some measurements.

I was very impressed with the packaging for the primary pulley as it was shipped from the Suzuki:

Here are few pictures of the newly redesigned primary pulley assembly:

A few pictures of the old primary pulley assembly:

A few pics with measurements showing the differences between the old and new primary pulley assembly.

The stopper bold slot has been deepened to accommodate the longer pulley stopper bolt:

New Primary PUlley Assembly:

Old Primary Pulley Assembly:

The face/flange areas next to the stopper bolts have been reversed, with the longer face being at the bottom and the shorter one on top on the new assembly model as seen in the pics below:

Old Assembly: New Assembly:

A few pictures of the worn out shaft vs a normal shaft:

Damaged Shaft: Normal Shaft:

A few more pictures of the old and new primary pulley with some measurements.

The reason why I could not get the primary pulley out was due to the splines on the shaft having worn out which resulted in a small lip at the base of the splines as seen in the pictures below. The old bearing would not fit past the damaged portion of the splines above the shaft.

Old Primary Pulley

New Primary Pulley

Old Shorter Primary Pulley Stopper Bolt

New Longer Primary Pulley Stopper Bolt

Replace the O-ring with a new one

Inspect the Primary Pulley Housing inside the CVT case.

Clean the inside of the primary pulley housing inside the CVT case
Inspect it for signs of uneven wear or stepping wear
Inspect the primary pulley bolt hole

Step

Assembly

Caution: Wear clean protective gloves

Degrease the inside of the CVT cover and casing completely with a cleaning solvent by using a clean rag.

I performed the following:

I used an engine cleaner to completely clean and degrease the inside of both the case and cover.
I followed up with a soap and water rinse to remove any reside that the engine cleaner may have left behind.
I finished with a complete wipe down using 50% rubbing alcohol.

I also use 1200 wet/dry emery cloth to clean and polish the inside of primary pulley and secondary pulley housing and the rim on both the CVT Case / Cover.

Install the O-ring (1) and shim (2)

Install Primary Pulley O-Ring and Shim

Perform the following to install the O-ring and Shim:

Wipe clean the seating area for the O-Ring.

Apply a thin bead of Ultra Grey to 4 spots in the O-Ring seating area

Install the O-ring by placing it in its seating are and press it firmly into place making sure it makes good contact with the 4 ultra grey beads.

Place the shim over the O-Ring and push it place making sure it is seated properly.

Caution: If any of the primary pulley, CVT casing or CVT cover has been replaced, install the shim whose

thickness has been adjusted in the shim adjustment procedure

Perform the following prior to installing the primary pulley back inside the CVT case.

You will need the following supplies (Rubbing Alcohol / Anti-Seize).:

Clean the Primary Pulley Housing.

Apply a thin layer of Anti-Seize to the inside of the primary pulley housing.

Apply Anti-Seize

Clean the Pulley surfaces and turn the slide pulley gear to fully close the primary pulley

Clean the Primary Pulley Surfaces with rubbing alcohol

Fully close the Primary Pulley by turning the slide pulley gear

Clean and Close Pulley

Caution: Degrease the primary pulley faces completely

Align the cutaway (B) of the screw shaft with the portrustion (A)

The new pulley has a different pulley cover cut out, the cutout in the back is much smaller than the old style.

Below are some picstures of both the old and new primary pulleys, use the one that fits your particular Primary Pulley model.

New Style Primary Pulley:

Old Style Primary Pulley:

Align Cut-awy with Stopper Bolt Hole

Turn the primary pulley cover 180 degrees along the groove on the screw shaft and align the cutaway (B) with (D) or (E) position of the primary pulley cover

New Style Primary Pulley:

Old Style Primary Pulley:

Align Stopper Bolt with Cut-away (D) or (E)

With the cutawa (B) aligned with the stopper bolt hole (F) of the CVT cover, positon the primary pulley assembly onto the CVT cover.

Install Primary Pulley

Make sure that the screw shaft is in proper position by checking the location of cutaway (B) when viewed from the stopper bolt hole (F)

Verify Stopper Bolt Alignment

Install and tighten the stopper bolt to the specified torque

Make sure that the stopper bolt can seat properly all the way.
Install the bolt and hand tighten it for fit.

Once satisfied that it is seated propery, torque to the specified torque value:

You will need a torque wrench and a 14mm socket. An extension bar can make the job easier.

Torque Stopper Bolt

Primary Pulley Shaft Bolt: 36 N-m (3.6 kgf, 26.5 lb-ft)

CVT Primary Pulley Shims Adjustment

Caution: If any of the primary pulley, CVT casing or CVT cover has been replaced, install the shim whose

thickness has been adjusted in the shim adjustment procedure

You will need the following tools to perform the Shim Measurements:

Vernier Caliper (Digital would be easier to read)
Straight edge (I used the blade from my carpenter straight edge)
Leve (to make sure that the case/cover are level)

CVT Cover Depth Measurement

Below are the instgructions from the Service Manual:

Fix the CVT cover securely with its mating face positioned horizontally
With the straightedge placed on the cover mating face, measure the depth D to the face (a) of the cover which the primary pulley assembly contacts using the vernier calipers
Measure the depth D at three points and note the measured value D1, D2 and D3

This is how I took my CVT Cover measurements:

Place the cover on a level surface and use a level to make sure that it is level

Mark three spots inside the cover where you will be taking the measurements

Place the straight edge ontop of the mating surface of the CVT case over the primary pulley housing

Using your vernier caliper, record the measurements for D1, D2 and D3 at the marked spots

09900-20102: Vernier calipers

Primary Pulley Height Measurement

Below are the instructions from the service manual:

Install the primary pulley assembly onto the CVT casing
Install the primary pulley shaft adaptor with the special tool

09913-60910: Bearing Puller or

09913-61110: Bearing Puller or

09913-61510: Bearing Puller

Tighten the primary pulley shaft bolt to the specified torque with the special tools

Primary Pulley Shaft Bolt: 64 N-m (6.4 kgf, 46.5 lb-ft)

09920-31010: CVT Primary PUlley Shaft Holder

09920-31030: Extension Handle

Fix the CVT casing securely with its mating face positioned horizontally
With the straightedge placed on the casing mating face, measure the height H to the face (B) of the primary pulley assembly using the vernier calipers
Measure the height H at three points and note the measured value H1, H2, and H3.

09900-20102: Vernier calipers

This is how I too my D Value measurements:

I didn’t bother with installing the primary adapter and bolt and torquing it to spec for the neight measurements.

It felt like an unnecessary step which did yield any added benefit.

The service manual instructions are stated above if you wish to follow them to the letter.

I placed the case on a level working surfaced and used a level to check it.

I carefully placed the new primary pulley in place by sliding the shaft through the primary pulley bearing.

I made sure that the pulley was level, the pulley was fully open and properly seated on the engine side.

I marked three spots on the case mating surfaces.

I placed my straight edge on the edge of the primary pulley, the grey area, make sure you do not place it above it as it can throw off your calculations.

I used my digital vernier to calculate the H values at the marked spots.

Shim Selection Table

Below are the instructions from the service manual to calculate the value X in order to use the correct shim size:

Get the average depth Da by averaging D1, D2 and D3
Get the average height Ha by averaging H1, H2 and H3
Obtain the value X by subtracting Da from Ha
Using the chart below, select the appropriate shim with reference to the value X

I used a level to help me determine if the case / cover / pulley were level.

Note: The shims are available as a set (21746-10500)

These are my measurement results, which required using a 0.72 mm shim.

As luck would have it my old shim was the same size.

You can download this excel spread sheet to perform your shim calculations:

Shim Calculations Spread Sheet

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