Maya’s Diamonds Skirt
“Does my sexiness upset you?
Does it come as a surprise
that I dance like I’ve got diamonds
at the meeting of my thighs?”
The skirt is knitted sideways and shaped with short rows. I decided to include loads of illustrations in this pattern since I am a visual learner myself. However, to save on trees and toner, I´ve kept the illustrations separate from instructions and cable charts, so you can print selectively.
For the moment being, it’s written as a one size fits Carmine. I’ll possibly try my hand at writing different sizes sometime in the future, but for now this is what I have on offer.
Please read ahead to the “shaping instructions” section before casting on, as shaping is incorporated right from the start of the work.
Questions, comments or suggestions welcome.
Measured flat: 44x36cm
To fit a hip of ~90-92cm and a waist of ~82-84cm
~ 2cm negative ease
CN - cable needle
CO - cast on
k - knit
p - purl
RS - right side
Sl - slip stitch purlwise holding yarn in front,
then bring yarn to back of work
st(s) - stich(es)
WS - wrong side
W&T - wrap and turn
A note on shaping
Shaping is created by adding two different sets of short rows: one set for the front, and one set for the back. Since the CO edge will end up forming the mid-back of the finished skirt, you will knit, in order and counting from the CO edge, ½ of the back, the whole of the front and another ½ of the back. Make sure you use the correct set of short rows for the part of the skirt you’re working on.
See also illustration 1
A note on cable chart A
Chart A does not neatly align with chart B: chart A has a 6 row repeat, whereas chart B has a 28 row repeat. It may be necessary to fudge chart A´s cable slightly when you reach the end of your knitting to ensure an uninterrupted cable. Just knit the cable crossing one RS earlier or later as needed.
Using scrap yarn, provisional CO 72.
Knit set-up row (RS) in working yarn, placing a marker for every | indicated:
k6 | p4, k4, p4 | p6, k2, p1, k2, p6 | p8 | p6, k2, p1, k2, p6 | p4, k4, p4 |
Still using your working yarn, cast on 15 additional stitches after the last marker, using the cable cast-on. You should now have a total of 87 stitches on your needle.
Knit one WS set-up row, slipping markers as you go:
sl1, k14 | k4, p4, k4 | k6, p2, k1, p2, k6 | k8 | k6, p2, k1, p2, k6 | k4, p4, k4 | k6
Start knitting in pattern as follows:
1 (RS): sl1, k5 | work row 1 of chart A | work row 1 of chart B | p8 | work row 1 of chart B | work row 1 of chart A | k 15
2 (WS): sl1, k14 | work row 2 of chart A | work row 2 of chart B | k8 | work row 2 of chart B | work row 2 of chart A | k6
Continue in pattern as established by these rows.
See also illustration 2
N.B.: I in fact started knitting at row 15 of chart B, not on row 1 as written here. It doesn’t particularly matter which row of the chart you start on so long as you remember it well. I thought the grafting would be easier on a row without moss stitch. YMMV.
From CO until work measures ~22 cm, use instructions for back shaping.
From 22 cm until work measures ~66 cm, use instructions for front shaping.
From 66 cm until BO, use instructions for back shaping.
Knit in pattern up to row 14 of chart B. Work row 28 in pattern up to one stitch before the second-to-last marker. W&T. Knit in pattern up to one stitch before the second-to-last marker. W&T. Continue in pattern, don’t pick up the wrap.
Knit in pattern up to row 28 of chart B. Work row 14 in pattern up to one stitch before the last marker. W&T. Continue in pattern, don’t pick up the wrap.
Knit in pattern up to row 14 of chart B. Work row 14 in pattern up to one stitch before the last marker. W&T. Continue in pattern, don’t pick up the wrap.
Knit in pattern up to row 28 of chart B. Work row 28 in pattern up to one stitch before the second-to-last marker. W&T. Continue in pattern, don’t pick up the wrap.
See also illustration 3
When your skirt has reached the desired length (9 repeats of chart B and ~88 cm, ending on a WS row), unravel the provisional CO and pick up the live stitches. Turn work so the WS ends are facing you. Graft both sides together using a three-needle bind-off, removing markers as you go, up to the last marker.
Loosely bind off the last 15 stitches on one end of your knitting while keeping the 15 stitches on the other on the needle. Work these last 15 stitches for another 3cm in garter stitch, then loosely BO.
Turn work inside out again so the RS faces you. Tuck the 3cm garter stitch flap under the opposite side of the garter stitch hem and fasten the top edge with a few stitches.
See also illustration 4
Weave in ends.
Optional: I decided to stabilize the waist by adding two rows of crocheted slip stitch to the garter stitch waist band. One row in the knitted slipped stitch edge and one row right where the garter stitch waist meets the purl stitches of the body. This reduces the stretchiness of the hem somewhat, so keep in mind it’ll still have to fit over your hips.
© Karmijn Quist 2012