Objectives
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oil pressure sensor BRN/GRN or BRN/GRY
front coolant temperature sensor (ECU) BRN/RED BRN
rear coolant temperature sensor (Gauge Sensor) BRN/YEL BRN/VIO
crank position sensor YEL
cam position sensor YEL RED/WHT BRN/ORG
throttle position sensor (TPS) BRN BRN/BLK RED/YEL
intake air temperature (IAT) sensor BRN GRY
idle control valve (ICV) WHT/YEL RED/WHT WHT/GRN
Evaporative emissions valve BRN RED/WHT
diag port: link1
Engine Bay Prep
Disconnect battery
Disconnect DME from wiring harness in the glovebox. Pull the wiring harness through the firewall.
The DME connector is sometimes balky, but it does fit through the hole in the firewall.
Disconnect engine ground cable on passenger side frame rail
Remove exhaust system at downpipe
Remove heatshielding then disconnect driveshaft
Remove AC lines
Remove upper and lower coolant hoses, remove radiator
Remove hoses leading to heater core
Remove vacuum line leading to brake booster
Unbolt the little gas shocks that are attached to the engine, there located just near the engine mounts(on both sides)
Remove engine
Transmission
Assemble transmission
Assemble Linkage
Pilot bearing - HOWTO
Engine Pilot bearing/transmission - Reference
Steering Rack Install
Remove PS hoses/parts
install e36 rack - HOWTO
Close circ - HOWTO
Autozone:
cooling hoses
electric fan
o2 sensor
Useful information
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-Autozone reference site for E36 Motors- Link
-theres a small 3 pin connector near the glovebox called the C104, in that is the fuel economy and tach signals, tach is the black one, i cant remember which was teh fuel economy, and the third is unused
-m50nv’s do NOT have knock sensors
-ECU 402 and 405 run Non-Vanos engines.
-e28 motor mounts with about 1/2 (13mm) worth of spacers on e36 alloy arms, E36 alloy motor mount arms are necessary to properly place the engine in the bay.
-You should really do a leak down test though. If the head gasket is fine, leave it alone.
- getting the e34 oil pan and dipstick are necessary, as well as the sump tube. IF you do use an m50 from the e36 you have to remove the oil baffle as the e34 oil pan has it built in. there is a support for the e36 oil tube that is attached to one of the main bearings. If you opt to remove the bolts and the main cap you have to get new bolts and be sure to get the cap back on the same way it came off. or you can do it the easy way and bend the bracket until it breaks off, I would not attempt to cut it because where do the shavings go? While you have the pan off make sure you oil pump nut is VERY tight!
- To digress a little, what ever flywheel you use you have to match it to the starter.
- you need e28 535 engine mounts, the green rubber ones. e36 engine brackets. You can use the e36 power steering pump, etc
- IF you have a 89+ car your cooling system will work, if not get a e36 radiator and 89+ surge tank and hook it up.
- If you want to stay with a clutch fan you have to use the e30 one, it goes right where the e36 one comes off.
- When you buy the engine, make sure they are sending you a complete running engine, includign the AFM as well.
Transmission Information:
-M20 stock flywheels require shaving 1/8" on the back side to avoid hitting the oil pan.
-YES the Getrag 240 (from 90-91 318i/iS WILL bolt up to all M/S/50/52 blocks perfectly and will even line up correctly with the oil pan holes.
-Use the pilot bearing that was meant for your motor.
-People have used the m20 325i shift linkage along with it, it didn’t work for me so I shortened the 318 carrier and selector rod to work.
-Use the E36 325i 5spd driveshaft with a e30 center bearing for best fitment. The E30 325i 5spd driveshaft can be used too.
-If you're going to be running a single mass m20 flywheel use the euro 323i throw out bearing. Otherwise the stock one from the 240 should work with the m50 dualmass flywheels.
-For transmission support use the stock unmodified e30 transmisson brace with the stock 240/e36 transmisson mounts.
- Correct flywheel for lightening is 89 325i
Reference
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http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=204497 (throttle cable setups)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=89418 (step-by-fucking-step pictures of a 3.0L Stroker M50!)
http://www.e30performance.info/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=227&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&view=print (decent basic write-up!)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=115145 (m50 rebuild tips)
http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=CB33&mospid=47498 (m50 engine diagrams)
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=162444 (m42 to m50, step-through)
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=190748 (‘87 325, good parts reference)
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=190650 (pretty good parts list)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=146087 (m42 to m50, awesome pix)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=71789 (transmission and pilot bearing info)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=95025 (g240-specific transmission questions)
http://www.e3024v.com/board/index.php?topic=1280.0;wap2 (mostly correct swap list)
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=160817&page=2 (G240 fresh)
http://www.bmwcca.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4326 (vaguely tells you what you need for the swap from a bare block and accessories)http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=151762 (CSB & Driveshaft help)
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74889&page=7 (step-by-step 325e to m50, clean!)
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=160176 (m52b28 into 318i, good wiring info)
http://www.akgmotorsport.com/usm50swap.php (e34m50 -> e30m50 hang-ups, great pictures!)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131118 (early model 24v wiring)
Paint Restoration
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http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=130116
Bare metal, two primer coats, 1xfiller, Sand (see below), 1xfiller, 3x Spray Color
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Performance figures (assuming heaviest 325i at 2800lbs)
400hp = 0-120mph in 10.5 sec, 0-62 in 4.4sec
???hp @ 1.0bar - 7psi
618hp @ 1.4bar - 20.30psi