Rear Wheel Removal - Installation

Removing the rear wheel on the Burgman 650 is a simple endeavor which can be done very easily with a bit of planning.   

Below is a parts, tools list and a step by step guide with instructions.   

Depending on the condition and age of your scoot, you may need some or all of these parts.

I prefer to have them on hand since I do most of the work myself. 

Qty

Parts Description

 2

Rear wheel bearing.  I decided to use an aftermarket two sided sealed bearing, an SKF in this instance.  Size: 6204-2RS.  ($18.00)

 1 

Dust seal.  Suzuki OEM part.  Size: 28-47-7 ($4.00)  Part#..: (09285-28001) 

 1

Cotter Pin (25 cents)  

Optional Parts

  1

I wanted to change the stem on my rear wheel with a 90 degree one to make it easier to check the tire pressure.  This would be a one time investment, especially if you get a steel one.  Install the stem facing towards the left side of the bike away from the disk brake.

90 degree valve-stem ($4.00).  

  1

Rear Tire.  Bridgestone TH01 160 / 60 R14 ($108.00) or your favorite brand 

                                    Tools list                          

3mm hex key

8mm socket or wrench 

10mm socket or wrench 

12mm socket or wrench

22mm socket or wrench 

24mm socket or wrench

Ratchet for your sockets

Pliers 

Torque wrench 

Small bungee cords 

Plastic shim 

Piece of tubing to use as a lever 

A few pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 lumber

to elevate the rear wheel.

Lubes & Cleaners list

Moly paste lube or equivalent high temp lube 

Small brush to apply lube/grease to the gear joints 

Disk brake cleaner

General degreaser 

Rubbing alcohol 

Cleaning towels/paper towels

Removal / Installation time:   30-60 minutes. 

DIY Videos 

Elevate the rear wheel

The rear wheel on the Burgman, while on the center stand, sits very close to the ground and getting it off without removing the rear fender can be a very tedious affair if not impossible.   

If you have the good fortune of owning a motorcycle lift/table then you know what to do. 

Otherwise you will need a few pieces of wood.  I prefer wide wood planks as they are much easier to work with, however a few pieces of 2x4s work just as well. 

Step

Rear Wheel Elevation Instructions

1.

Place a plank on the floor in front of the rear wheel. 

It was a lot easier to use the engine to get the rear wheel up on the plan than to push it. 

Give it a little bit of gas and the rear wheel does the job for you. 

2.

Put the side stand down and steady the bike. 

3.

Place the other wood plank on the floor in front of the one with the rear wheel resting on it. 

4.

Now push down on the center stand and prop up the scoot, it shouldn’t take too much effort. 

5.

Remove the back plank. 

The wheel should be about 2-3 inches off the ground at is base.

Rear Wheel Anatomy

Step

Rear Wheel Removal Steps

1.

Remove the final gear case cover on the left hand side of the scoot.  Use an 8mm socket/wrench. 

2.

Disconnect the rear brake lock cable. 

Start by removing the 10mm lock nut and loosen the 3mm hex screw (counter clock wise).   

Now undo the two 12mm supporting bolts and the brake lock assembly should come right off.  

3.

Remove the cotter pin with a pair of pliers. 

4.

Remove the rear axle nut/washer.

Use a 22mm socket/wrench on the left hand side to hold the axle while you undo it from the right side using a 24mm socket/wrench.

I use a piece of tubing as a lever / extension to loosen the axle nut by slipping it over the ratchet’s handle. 

5.

Remove the rear wheel brake caliper 12mm support bolts.

Remove the caliper, and place a plastic shim between the brake pads to keep the brakes from collapsing on you if you accidentally grab a handful of brakes. 

Use a small bungee cord to support the suspend the caliper.

6.

Push the axle out halfway. 

Remove the collar / spacer between the swing arm and the wheel. 

There are two of  them.  One has a lip and it goes up against the swing arm. 

7.

Pull the axle all the way out and the wheel should come loose. 

8.

Place a few support blocks under the wheel to support the weight while you dislodge it from gear hub housing.

Remove one block at a time and drop the wheel down onto the ground. 

Push the wheel out towards the rear fender and lean it slightly to the left to clear the fender. 

12.

12.  Remove the inner wheel collar / spacer, it should fall out.  It is one long piece. 

Removed Parts

Step

In between Steps

1.

Now that you have the rear wheel off, spend a bit of time cleaning / degreasing the inside of the hub. 

2.

Clean all the parts that came off the rear wheel. 

3.

Check your wheel bearings for proper play; replace them if you feel any resistance.

4.

Check your stem for cracks, replace it if necessary or do what I did, replace it with a 90 degree steel one.

Mount The Tire

If you have the skills and tools to mount the rear tire, get going, otherwise find a nice bike shop that will do it for you for a reasonable price. 

Prepare Wheel For Mounting

1.

Once you have the new tire mounted, use a disk brake / contact cleaner to clean the disk brake.   

2.

Clean the wheel with rubbing alcohol or your favorite cleaner. 

3.

Lube the rear hub driven gear joint on the wheel and the hub housing. 

It is imperative that you do this if you want your gear joints to last.  Buy some molly lube/grease that is designed for this type of application.

4.

Lightly lube the axle and the inside of the collars. 

Step

Rear Wheel Reassembly Steps

1.

Inserting the inner left collar / spacer into the final gear case. 

2.

Insert the axle and push it forward until it reaches the right side of the inner left collar / spacer. 

3.

Reposition the wheel under the scooter. 

Use a wood blocks to elevate it and keep it steady while you try to couple the gear joints on the hub and wheel.

4.

Re-install the wheel, be patient and don’t try to force it. 

It will fall into place once you have the right alignment between the gears on the wheel and the hub. 

Push the axle forward to support the rear wheel.  

5.

Insert the spacer, collar, the one with the lip goes against the swing arm, and push the axle all the way through. 

Install the washer and rear axle nut 24mm and tighten it.

6.

Place the brake caliper over the rotor, try not to get any grease/dirt on the disk brake. 

Install the 12mm caliper bolts and tighten them

7.

Torque the rear axle nut to 72.5 lb-ft. 

8.

Install a new cotter pin through the axle nut and axle.

Twist its ends upwards to secure the axle nut.

9.

Torque the 12mm caliper bolts to 19.0 lb-ft.

10.

Install the 12mm brake lock cable support arm bolts and tighten them.

Torque the 12mm brake lock cable support bolts to 19.0 lb-ft.

11.

Adjust the rear brake.  Position the brake lever in position/notch one. 

Turn the adjuster bolt 3mm hex screw clockwise until it stops, don’t over tighten it. 

Now install and tighten the 10mm lock nut to the specified torque level 7.0 lb-ft.

Spring the wheel to make sure that the brake lock isn't engaged.

12.

Reinstall the final gear cover. 

That’s about it. You are done. 

Now take the scoot out for a spin and break in that new tire. 

Be careful for the first 50-100 miles as new tires can be a bit slippery. 

Note: 

While I had the rear brake lock arm off, I noticed that there was some friction damage under the metal part of the housing against the rear swing arm.  I placed a piece of adhesive foam tape between the swing arm and the cable housing to prevent any further damage.  

LeDude’s Burgman Center