Moe Grinder

Assembly Instructions

Designed and engineered by  

Wayne Coe

Artist Blacksmith

729 Peters Ford Road

Sunbright, Tennessee 37872

423-628-6444

waynecoe@highland.net

www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com

Instructions by Kristopher Skelton

Included Parts list:

Motor: 1.5 HP or 2 HP, 115V or 230V per specification at time of purchase (drop shipped)

Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) (drop shipped)

Drive wheel (keyed) (drop shipped)

Guide wheel (drop shipped)

2” contact wheel (drop shipped)

8” contact wheel (drop shipped)

Grinder frame upright

Platen/wheel arm (includes T-handle knobs)

Tool rest (upright bar, X-axis bar, Y-axis bar, square plate)

4 wire nuts

4 T-bolt bases with ¼” bolts

8 hex-head lag screws

User must supply a ¾” thick (actual dimension) wood base no smaller than 12”x18”. Larger is recommended. Quality plywood is also recommended. OSB, particle board, and dimensional lumber can swell, warp, crown, etc. which may affect the alignment of the motor and grinder frame.

Tools you must have:

Flat head screwdriver

Phillips screwdriver

⅛” hex key at least 1.5” long

7/16” wrench

Carpenter’s square or sliding square

Pencil for marking locations of holes, and guide lines

Drill with ⅛” and 5/16” bits

Clamps (“C” clamp or the like) that will hold the grinder frame to the wood base

Additional clamps to hold the base to the stand

Tools that will make this job easier:

Ratchet with 10” extension and 7/16” socket, in addition to 7/16” wrench

READ THIS CAREFULLY

Caution! The VFD is a precision electronic device. No on/off switch is provided as the manufacturer of this unit recommends unplugging it when not in use.

Caution! Do not use the VFD if a power surge is likely (brownout, lightning storm) as the fluctuation in voltage may harm the electronics.

Caution!  During use material will be expelled from the surface of the belt grinder in the general direction of the user. The manufacturer recommends health precautions including: eye protection, hearing protection, and a filtered, properly fitting respirator.

Caution!  The grinder is heaviest on the right side, and the grinder’s platen, contact wheels, and guide wheel will overhang the side of the bench or stand on which it is placed. The stand or bench must have sufficient counterbalance to keep the parts from falling over.

Tip! If the unit is generating an electrostatic charge (i.e. if the user is being shocked during use) wires should be attached to the motor and grinder frame, then grounded to the shop floor. This will be most common in units mounted to frames with plastic or rubber feet. A charge can also be generated in units mounted to wood frames as the static charge generated by the grinding belt moving over the metal platen has no way to escape.

Mounting the frame:

At this time the wood base must be attached to a bench or stand (temporarily with a clamp), bearing in mind that the frame weighs several pounds, and is top heavy. The natural tendency of the frame is to fall over, which can take the wood base with it. As the platen arm and contact wheels are added the unit will become increasingly heavier.

If the vertical guide bar for the tool rest is still attached to the mounting plate, remove it as it will interfere with drilling the mounting holes.

1. Align the faces of both uprights so they are flush with the right edge of the wood base. <See Image 1>
2. Clamp the frame to the wood base, double check that the uprights are flush with the edge.
3. Use the pencil to mark the locations of the four mounting holes, and remove the clamp and frame.
4. Use the drill and the ⅛” bit to make pilot holes.
5. Attach the base of the frame to the grinder base using four of the included lag screws.
6. Attach the tool arm to the frame.

Tool arm assembly:

1. Remove the three ½” bolts from the frame and the platen arm.
2. Attach the guide wheel (crowned, slightly grooved) to the upper frame arm. Use a washer on either side of the wheel. Leaving approximately ⅛” clearance reduces friction in the wheel and will help prevent it from rubbing against the frame.
3. Attach the 2” contact wheel to the side of the platen arm with the narrower opening. Use a washer on either side of the wheel. Do not tighten fully; this allows the contact wheel to spin freely. Too much torque can cause the bushings to bind which will lead to premature failure.
4. Attach the 8” contact wheel to the side of the platen arm with the wider opening. Use a washer on either side of the wheel. Do not tighten fully; this allows the contact wheel to spin freely. Too much torque can cause the bushings to bind which will lead to premature failure.
5. Check the tightness of the two large bolts that hold the grinding platen to the frame.

Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) Assembly

Please review the manual that accompanied the VFD unit. The manual includes several helpful diagrams. <Image 2> and <Image 3> may also be of assistance.

1. Open the VFD cover.
2. Remove the two rubber plugs which cover the ¾” openings.
3. Identify Jumper 1 and set the white plug on the appropriate voltage (115V or 230V).
4. Set Jumper 2 to match the HP rating of your motor (1.5 HP is the default).
5. Set Jumper 4 to the “2X” position.
6. Remove the nut from the end of the 8’ power cord, and thread the wires and end of the Cable Gland through the right-most opening in the VFD case.

1. Screw the retaining nut back onto the Cable Gland.

7. Remove the wire sheaths from the wires, and twist the wire bundles clockwise.
8. Attach the green wire to the green-tinted screw in the lower right hand corner of the VFD.
9. Attach the black and white wires to the two terminals labeled “Line 1,” and “Line 2.”

1. The wires should go under the small metal plate that is attached to the screw on each terminal.

10. Remove the nut from the end of the 2’ cord, and thread the wires and end of the Cable Gland through the left-most opening in the VFD case.

1. Screw the retaining nut back onto the Cable Gland.

11. Remove the wire sheaths from the wires, and twist the wire bundles clockwise.
12. Attach the green wire to the green-tinted screw in the lower left hand corner of the VFD.
13. Attach the remaining three wires to the three posts labeled: “U,” “V,” and “W.”

1. The wires should go under the small metal plate that is attached to the screw on each terminal.

14. Install the 1” rubber plug in the middle hole of the VFD, close the lid and reinstall the screws.

1. The unit is now sealed.

15. Remove the face of the wiring box on the side of the motor
16. Remove one of the ¾” knock-outs from the box attached to the side of the motor.
17. Remove the nut from the end of the 2’ cord, and thread the wires and end of the Cable Gland through the hole in the motor’s wiring box.

1. Screw the retaining nut back onto the Cable Gland.

18. Remove the wire sheaths from the wires, and twist the wire bundles clockwise.
19. Attach the green wire to the green screw inside the wiring box.
20. Using one of the provided wire nuts, combine the wires labeled “T-4,” “T-5,” and “T-6.”
21. Combine one of the four wires from the 2’ cable to the wires labeled “T-1” and “T-7.”
22. Combine another of the four wires from the 2’ cable to the wires labeled “T-2” and “T-8.”
23. Combine the last of the four wires from the 2’ cable to the wires labeled “T-3” and “T-9.”
24. Turn the potentiometer to “0,” and check that the “Start/Stop” switch is in the “Stop” or “Neutral” position.
25. Plug the VFD into an appropriate outlet.
26. Switch the VFD to “Start,” and turn the potentiometer to 10-15%.
27. The motor should be turning counter-clockwise.

1. If it is:

1. Switch the VFD to “Stop.”
2. Double check that the wire nut connections are secure.
3. Tighten all Cable Glands to ensure that the cables do not separate from the motor or VFD.
4. Replace the wiring box cover plate.
5. Unplug the VFD unit.

2. If it is not:

1. Switch the VFD to “Stop.”
2. Unplug the unit and wait at least two minutes for the stored charge to dissipate-- both LED indicators should stop glowing.
3. Switch any two of the power cable’s colored wires with their motor wire pairs (e.g. exchange T-2/T-8 and T-3/T-9).
4. Repeat the rotation test; proceed to 27-a.

28. Attach the VFD to the included mounting bracket, using the attached bolts.

Mounting the motor

The mounting of the motor is the most critical series of steps in the grinder assembly. Please measure at least twice before drilling the holes for the t-bolts.

The front of the motor mounting plate should be approximately 5” from the rear of the base of the grinder frame. This dimension is not critical. However, if mounted too far rearward the belts won’t fit over the tool arm when attempting to use either of the contact wheels. If too far forward proper tension won’t be possible as the tool arm, and tensioner wheel won’t contact the belt.

1. Install drive wheel.

1. The hex-screw requires a ⅛” hex wrench.
2. The drive spindle should be flush with the edge of the guide hole.

1. Without sufficient clearance between the guide wheel and motor the grinding belts will contact the motor; tracking will also be an issue.

2. Position the framing square such that the short leg is pointing down, and the motor’s spindle is in contact with the inside corner of the square.

1. The square’s long leg (SLL) should be between the 8” contact wheel and the grinder frame.

3. Use the sliding square (or ruler) to measure the distance between the SLL and the front upright on the grinder frame <See Image 4>.

1. Repeat for the distance between the SLL and the rear upright.

1. The distances should be the same.

4. Check that the SLL is touching all points on the inside of the drive wheel.

1. If not, adjust the drive wheel so there are no gaps between the face of the SLL and the inside of the drive wheel.

1. Check that the SLL is not flexing, an indication that the motor needs to be adjusted outward.

5. Using a pencil, trace the inside of the holes in the motor mounting bracket.

1. Mark the approximate centers of the marked hole locations.
2. The hole that is on the front-left side of the motor (facing the wiring box) will be difficult to access. Move the motor, and with a straight edge extend the lines from the other three holes to determine its location. Mark its center, too.

6. Drill ⅛” pilot holes.
7. Drill 5/16” holes.
8. Align the motor mount over the holes.
9. Insert the t-bolts into the holes from below.

1. Apply enough pressure to make the teeth “bite” into the wood.

10. Bolt the motor to the wood base.

1. ¼” washers may be used, but are not provided.

11. Install a 2x72” belt over the wheels.

1. The tool arm may need to be adjusted in or out to improve tension.

12. Set the VFD to zero, plug it in, and flip the switch to “start.”
13. Turn the VFD up to about 10% and check the belt’s tracking.

1. Use the star knob to move the guide wheel up/down to adjust tracking as needed.

14. Test tracking at 30%, 50%, 70% and full speed.

1. The motor may need to be angled slightly if tracking is an issue.

Lastly, screw the VFD’s mounting bracket to the wood base. As before, mark the location of the holes and drill ⅛” pilot holes. The bracket should not touch the motor, nor the grinder frame.

Congratulations! You have successfully assembled your new Moe belt grinder and are ready to begin grinding, polishing, and shaping.

Appendix A

Image 1

Image 2:

Image 3:

Image 4: