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Getting Around (http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020015.html)

The best way to savor Chicago is by walking its streets. Walking isn't always practical, however, particularly when moving between distant neighborhoods and on harsh winter days. In those situations, Chicago's public train and bus systems can get you almost anywhere you want to go.

Free Ride -- During the summer, the city of Chicago operates free trolleys daily between Michigan Avenue and the Museum Campus (site of the Adler Planetarium, the Field Museum of Natural History, and the Shedd Aquarium); the trolleys run only on weekends in the fall and spring. Free trolleys also run year-round between Navy Pier and the Grand/State El station on the Red Line. While the trolleys are supposed to make stops every 30 minutes, waits can be longer during peak tourist season -- and the trolleys aren't air-conditioned. If you get tired of waiting, remember that CTA public buses travel the same routes for only $2 per person.

By Train & Bus

The Chicago Transit Authority, better known as the CTA (tel. 836-7000 or TTY 836-4949 from any area code in the city and suburbs; www.transitchicago.com) operates an extensive system of trains and buses throughout the city of Chicago. The sturdy system carries about 1.5 million passengers a day. Subways and elevated trains (known as the El) are generally safe and reliable, although it's advisable to avoid long rides through unfamiliar neighborhoods late at night.

Fares for the bus, subway, and El are $2, with an additional 25¢ for a transfer that allows CTA riders to make two transfers on the bus or El within 2 hours of receipt. Children 6 and under ride free, and those between the ages of 7 and 11 pay $1. Seniors can also receive the reduced fare if they have the appropriate reduced-fare permit (call tel.312/836-7000 for details on how to obtain one, although this is probably not a realistic option for a short-term visitor).

The CTA uses credit card-size fare cards that automatically deduct the exact fare each time you take a ride. The reusable cards can be purchased with a preset value already stored, or riders can obtain cards at vending machines located at all CTA train stations and charge them with whatever amount they choose (a minimum of $2 and up to $100). If within 2 hours of your first ride you transfer to a bus or the El, the turnstiles at the El stations and the fare boxes on buses will automatically deduct from your card just the cost of a transfer (25¢). If you make a second transfer within 2 hours, it's free. The same card can be recharged continuously.

Fare cards can be used on buses, but you can't buy a card on the bus. If you get on the bus without a fare card, you'll have to pay $2 cash (either in coins or in dollar bills); the bus drivers cannot make change, so make sure that you've got the right amount before hopping on board.

Ticket to Ride -- Visitors who plan on taking a lot of train or bus trips should consider buying a Visitor Pass, which works like a fare card and allows individual users unlimited rides on the El and CTA buses over a 24-hour period. The cards cost $5 and are sold at airports, hotels, museums, Hot Tix outlets, transportation hubs, and Chicago Office of Tourism visitor information centers (you can also buy them in advance online at www.transitchicago.com or by calling tel. 888/YOUR-CTA). You can also buy 2-, 3-, and 5-day passes. While the passes save you the trouble of feeding the fare machines yourself, they're economical only if you plan to make at least three distinct trips at least 2 or more hours apart (remember that you get two additional transfers within 2 hrs. for an additional 25¢ on a regular fare).

By Train -- The CTA operates five major train lines, identified by color: The Red Line runs north-south; the Green Line runs west-south; the Blue Line runs through Wicker Park/Bucktown west-northwest to O'Hare Airport; the Pink Line branches off from the Blue Line and serves the southwest side of the city; the Brown Line runs in a northern zigzag route; and the Orange Line runs southwest, serving Midway airport. The Purple Line, which runs on the same Loop elevated tracks as the Orange and Green lines, serves north-suburban Evanston and runs only during rush hour.

I highly recommend taking at least one El ride while you're here -- you'll get a whole different perspective on the city (not to mention fascinating views inside downtown office buildings and North Side homes as you zip past their windows). While the Red Line is the most efficient for traveling between the Magnificent Mile and points south, your only views along this underground stretch will be of dingy stations. For sightseers, I recommend taking the aboveground Brown Line, which runs around the downtown Loop and then north through residential neighborhoods. You can ride all the way to the end of the line at Kimball (about a 45-min. ride from downtown), or hop off at Belmont to wander the Lakeview neighborhood. Avoid this scenic ride during rush hour (before about 9am and 3:30-6:30pm), when your only view will be of tired commuters.

Study your CTA map carefully (there's one printed on the inside back cover of this guide) before boarding any train. While most trains run every 5 to 20 minutes, decreasing in frequency in the off-peak and overnight hours, some stations close after work hours (as early as 8:30pm) and remain closed on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays. The Orange Line train does not operate from about 11:30pm to 5am, the Brown Line operates only north of Belmont after about 9:30pm, the Blue Line's Cermak branch has ceased operating overnight and on weekends, and the Purple Line does not run overnight.

By Bus -- The best way to get around neighborhoods along the lakefront -- where the trains don't run -- is by public bus. Look for the blue-and-white signs to locate bus stops, which are spaced about 2 blocks apart. Each bus route is identified by a number and the name of the main street it runs along; the bus that follows Grand Avenue, for example, is the no. 65 Grand.

A few buses that are particularly handy for many visitors are the no. 146 Marine/Michigan, an express bus from Belmont Avenue on the North Side that cruises down North Lake Shore Drive (and through Lincoln Park during nonpeak times) to North Michigan Avenue, State Street, and the Grant Park museum campus; the no. 151 Sheridan, which passes through Lincoln Park en route to inner Lake Shore Drive and then travels along Michigan Avenue as far south as Adams Street, where it turns west into the Loop (and stops at Union Station); and the no. 156 LaSalle, which goes through Lincoln Park and then into the Loop's financial district on LaSalle Street.

PACE buses (tel. 836-7000 from any Chicago area code or 847/364-7223; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; www.pacebus.com) cover the suburban zones that surround Chicago. They run every 20 to 30 minutes during rush hour, operating until midevening Monday through Friday and early evening on weekends. Suburban bus routes are marked with nos. 208 and above, and vehicles may be flagged down at intersections where stops aren't marked.

By Commuter Train -- The Metra commuter railroad (tel. 312/322-6777 or TTY 312/322-6774; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; at other times call the Transit Information Center at tel. 312/836-7000 or TTY 312/836-4949; www.metrarail.com) serves the six-county suburban area around Chicago with 12 train lines. Several terminals are located downtown, including Union Station at Adams and Canal streets, LaSalle Street Station at LaSalle and Van Buren streets, North Western Station at Madison and Canal streets, and Randolph Street Station at Randolph Street and Michigan Avenue.

To view the leafy streets of Chicago's northern suburbs, take the Union Pacific North Line, which departs from the North Western Station, and get off at one of the following scenic towns: Kenilworth, Winnetka, Glencoe, Highland Park, and Lake Forest.

The Metra Electric (once known as the Illinois Central-Gulf Railroad, or the IC), running close to Lake Michigan on a track that occupies some of the most valuable real estate in Chicago, will take you to Hyde Park. You can catch the Metra Electric in the Loop at the Randolph Street Station and at the Van Buren Street Station at Van Buren Street and Michigan Avenue (both these stations are underground, so they're not immediately obvious to visitors).

Commuter trains have graduated fare schedules based on the distance you ride. On weekends and holidays and during the summer, Metra offers a family discount that allows up to three children under age 12 to ride free when accompanying a paid adult. The commuter railroad also offers a $5 weekend pass for unlimited rides on Saturday and Sunday.

By Taxi

Taxis are a convenient way to get around the Loop and to get to the dining, shopping, and entertainment options found beyond downtown, such as on the Near North Side, in Old Town and Lincoln Park, and in Bucktown/Wicker Park.

Taxis are easy to hail in the Loop, on the Magnificent Mile and the Gold Coast, in River North, and in Lincoln Park, but if you go far beyond these key areas, you might need to call. Cab companies include Flash Cab (tel. 773/561-4444), Yellow Cab (tel. 312/TAXI-CAB), and Checker Cab (tel. 312/CHECKER).

The meter in Chicago cabs currently starts at $2.25 for the first mile and costs $1.80 for each additional mile, with a $1 surcharge for the first additional rider and 50¢ for each person after that. Due to recent high gas prices, you'll also have to pay an additional $1 fuel surcharge whenever gas prices are above $3/gallon.

By Car

One of the great things about visiting Chicago is that you don't need to rent a car to get around: Public transportation and taxis are plentiful, and most of the main tourist attractions are within walking distance of downtown hotels. If you do drive here, Chicago is laid out so logically that it's relatively easy for visitors to get around the city by car. Although rush-hour traffic jams are just as frustrating as they are in other large cities, traffic runs fairly smoothly at most times of the day. Chicagoans have learned to be prepared for unexpected delays; it seems that at least one major highway and several downtown streets are under repair throughout the spring and summer months (some say we have two seasons: winter and construction).

Great diagonal corridors -- such as Lincoln Avenue, Clark Street, and Milwaukee Avenue -- slice through the grid pattern at key points in the city and shorten many a trip that would otherwise be tedious on the checkerboard surface of the Chicago streets. On scenic Lake Shore Drive (also known as Outer Dr.), you can travel the length of the city (and beyond), never far from the great lake that is Chicago's most awesome natural feature. If you're driving here, make sure you take one spin along what we call LSD; the stretch between the Museum Campus and North Avenue is especially stunning.

Driving Rules -- Unless otherwise posted, a right turn on red is allowed after stopping and signaling. As in any big city with its share of frustrating rush-hour traffic, be prepared for aggressive drivers and the occasional taxi to cut in front of you or make sudden, unexpected turns without signaling. Chicago drivers almost universally speed up at the sight of a yellow light; you'll most likely hear some honking if you don't make that mad dash before the light turns red.

Parking -- Parking regulations are vigorously enforced throughout the city. Read signs carefully: The streets around Michigan Avenue have parking restrictions during rush hour -- and I know from bitter firsthand experience that your car will be towed immediately. Many neighborhoods have adopted resident-only parking that prohibits others from parking on their streets, usually after 6pm each day (even all day in a few areas, such as Old Town). The neighborhood around Wrigley Field is off-limits during Cubs night games, so look for yellow sidewalk signs alerting drivers about the dozen-and-a-half times the Cubs play under lights. You can park in permit zones if you're visiting a friend who can provide you with a pass to stick on your windshield. Beware of tow zones, and, if visiting in winter, make note of curbside warnings regarding snow plowing.

A safe bet is valet parking, which most restaurants provide for $10 to $12. Downtown you might also opt for a public garage, but you'll have to pay premium prices. Several garages connected with malls or other major attractions offer discounted parking with a validated ticket.

If you'll be spending an entire day downtown, the best parking deal in the Loop is the city-run Millennium Park garage (tel. 312/742-7644), which charges $17 for up to 8 hours (enter on Columbus Dr., 1 block east of Michigan Ave., btw. Monroe and Randolph sts.). A little farther south are two municipal lots underneath Grant Park, with one entrance at Michigan Avenue and Van Buren Street and the other at Michigan Avenue and Madison Street (tel. 312/616-0600). Parking costs $14 for the first hour and $22 for 2 to 8 hours. Other downtown lots (where prices are comparable or even higher) include Midcontinental Plaza Garage, 55 E. Monroe St. (tel. 312/986-6821), and Navy Pier Parking, 600 E. Grand Ave. (tel. 312/595-7437). There's also a large lot next to the McCormick Place Convention Center, 2301 S. Lake Shore Dr. (tel. 312/791-7000).

Car Rental -- All the major car-rental companies have offices at O'Hare and Midway, as well as locations downtown.

By Bicycle

The city of Chicago has earned kudos for its efforts to improve conditions for bicycling (designated bike lanes have been installed on stretches of Wells St., Roosevelt Rd., Elston Ave., and Halsted St.), but it can still be a tough prospect trying to compete with cars and their drivers, who aren't always so willing to share the road.

The Chicagoland Bicycle Federation (tel. 312/427-3325; www.chibikefed.org), a nonprofit advocacy group, publishes several bicycling maps with tips on recommended on-street routes and parkland routes, as well as a guide to safe cycling in the city.

Bike Chicago rents all sorts of bikes, including tandems and four-seater "quadcycles," as well as in-line skates, from three locations: North Avenue Beach, Millennium Park, and Navy Pier (tel. 888/BIKE-WAY; www.bikechicago.com). Bike rentals start at $8.75 an hour or $30 a day. Helmets, pads, and locks are provided free of charge. The shops are open daily from 9am to 7pm, weather permitting.

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Downtown Chicago is relatively compact, so it's possible to get a general sense of the city in 1 day (although, of course, you really should spend more than 24 hours here). How you spend your time depends in part on your interests and the weather; you could easily spend 3 days exploring Chicago's museums, and if you're here in the winter, that's probably a lot more appealing than a daylong walking tour. On a sunny summer day, though, you might be tempted to spend an afternoon wandering along the lakefront without any particular destination. Ideally, you should experience both indoors and outdoors. In this spirit, I've composed the following itineraries, which contain a mix of cultural institutions and scenic walks.

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006010007.html

In One Day

The day begins with a walking tour of the Loop, which I think is the best way to get your bearings (and understand why Chicago's architecture is world-famous). Then you can squeeze in a quick visit to one of the city's preeminent museums before strolling along Michigan Avenue, Chicago's most famous thoroughfare, which takes you to the ritzy Gold Coast neighborhood. If possible, I'd recommend following this itinerary on a weekday, when downtown offices are open and the sidewalks buzz with energy. This route works fine on weekends as well, but you won't experience quite the same big-city rush. Start: Green, Orange, Brown, or Purple line to Adams, or Red Line to Jackson.

1. Chicago ArchiCenter

Start your day with the Chicago Architecture Foundation's "Historic Skyscrapers" tour, which begins daily at 10am year-round. The 2-hour walking tour takes you to the oldest high-rises in the Loop, and the docents explain why these early office buildings were revolutionary. Sure, you'll get a basic architecture education, but this is also a great way to get a sense of the Loop's layout and dramatic vistas. (Another popular tour, "Modern Skyscrapers," starts daily at 1pm).

2. The Art Institute

Across the street from the Chicago Architecture Foundation stands one of the city's most prestigious cultural institutions; if you have time for only one museum while you're here, this is the one to visit. Head right for the must-see exhibits: the Impressionist collection and the galleries of European and American contemporary art (home to iconic pictures such as Edward Hopper's Nighthawks).

3. Millennium Park

Just north of the Art Institute is one of the city's most popular gathering spots. Check out the massive video-screen faces on the Crown Fountain, then take a walk around (and under) Anish Kapoor's bean-shaped sculpture Cloud Gate. The Pritzker Music Pavilion, designed by Frank Gehry, features the architect's signature ribbons of silver steel; Gehry also designed the adjoining serpentine bridge.

4. Take a Break -- Park Grill

In the winter, this restaurant overlooks Millennium Park's ice-skating rink; come summer, the rink transforms into an outdoor cafe, perfect for sipping a drink and admiring the skyline. 11 N. Michigan Ave. tel. 312/521-PARK.

5. Michigan Avenue Bridge

Walk north along Michigan Avenue and you'll come to this bridge, which spans the Chicago River. Stop here for a great photo op -- on a nice day, you'll be joined by plenty of other visitors doing the exact same thing.

6. The Magnificent Mile

The 14-block stretch of Michigan Avenue from the river to Oak Street, known as the "Magnificent Mile," is shopping central, a dense concentration of high-rise malls, designer boutiques, and practically every mass-market clothing brand. Even if you're not a shopper, it's worth a stroll; busy at almost all hours, it's great for people-watching. Some Chicagoans dismiss the Mag Mile as too touristy, but I think walking here makes you feel like you're part of a vibrant metropolis.

7. Hancock Observatory

This may only be Chicago's third-tallest building, but the view from the top is spectacular: In the right weather conditions, you can see all the way to three other states (Wisc., Ind., and Mich.). The "talking telescopes" help you get your bearings.

8. Oak Street Beach

Where Michigan Avenue merges into Lake Shore Drive at Oak Street, head down the underpass to get to Oak Street Beach, a curved stretch of sand that's a summertime hot spot. Bikers, skaters, and joggers fill the paths, while kids play in the sand. Think of it as Chicago's own miniresort getaway -- just don't plan on swimming in the frigid water.

9. Take a Break -- Third Coast

If you're tired of generic chain coffeehouses (of which Chicago has plenty), stop by this somewhat shabby, lower-level cafe that welcomes both well-heeled locals and the occasional starving artist. In addition to the usual lattes and muffins, there's a full lunch and dinner menu, and wine and beer are available. 1260 N. Dearborn St. tel.312/649-0730.

10. The Gold Coast

To get an idea of how Chicago's wealthiest live, take a stroll through this neighborhood of historic town homes (including the original Playboy Mansion, at 1340 N. State Pkwy.). The tranquil, tree-lined streets are only a few blocks away from Michigan Avenue, but they feel like a different city. Finish up the night with dinner at one of the many restaurants in River North, or catch a show and discover Chicago's vibrant theater scene.

Map: http://www.frommers.com/images/destinations/maps/jpg-2006/6_chicagoin1day.jpg 

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020766.html

In Two Days

After Day 1, you should be oriented to the city. Now it's time to explore at least part of the city's Museum Campus, home to three major museums. Although I recommend the Field Museum for this itinerary, you could certainly substitute the nearby Shedd Aquarium or Adler Planetarium. The first part of this day keeps you firmly in tourist territory, but you'll journey off the beaten track later in the day when you wander through Wrigleyville and get a sense of how real Chicagoans live. Start: Bus no. 6, 10, 12, 130, or 146 to Roosevelt Road and Lake Shore Drive.

1. Field Museum of Natural History

You'll feel as though you've entered a truly grand place when you walk into the museum's massive Stanley Field Hall. Indeed, the Field Museum is one of those classic, something-for-everyone institutions, with everything from animal dioramas to Sue, the largest Tyrannosaurus rex fossil ever discovered. The Inside Ancient Egyptexhibit is more than just mummies: It's a complete re-creation of ancient daily life, including a marketplace, royal barge, and religious shrines (with lots of hands-on activities for kids). The second-floor African and South Pacific exhibits are also worth a stop, with beautifully designed interactive displays.

2. Buckingham Fountain

This grand, stone fountain is one of the city's iconic structures. (If you're a sitcom fan, you might recognize it from the opening credits of Married with Children.) Try to get here on the hour, when jets of water spurt dramatically into the sky. The fountain blazes with colored lights at night, so if you're staying downtown, it's also worth a stop after dark. (Note: The fountain is closed Nov-Mar.)

3. Lake Michigan or Chicago River cruise

Departing from a dock at the nearby Shedd Aquarium, Shoreline Sightseeing [S] runs water taxis that cruise north to Navy Pier (daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day). From the pier, you can also catch boats that cruise along the Chicago River all the way to the Sears Tower.

4. Navy Pier

Yes, it's touristy and crowded, but Navy Pier is also full of energy -- and if you stroll all the way to the end, you'll be rewarded with great views of downtown. If you're traveling with kids, stopping at Navy Pier is pretty much mandatory; it has a carousel and other carnival-type rides, lots of boats to admire, and the Chicago Children's Museum.

5. Take a Break -- Joe's Be-Bop Cafe & Jazz Emporium

Owned by the same family that runs Jazz Showcase, one of the best jazz clubs in town, this Navy Pier cafe offers a fun atmosphere (with plenty of outdoor seating), Southern barbecue, and a great soundtrack. 600 E. Grand Ave. tel. 312/595-5299.

From Navy Pier, take the free Navy Pier shuttle to the Grand El station (Red Line), and ride north to the Addison stop.

6. Wrigley Field

If you're a baseball fan, Wrigley is hallowed ground: the second-oldest stadium in the major leagues, home to the perennially jinxed Chicago Cubs. The surrounding blocks are a good place to stock up on Cubs souvenirs. If you want to catch a game, tickets can be tough to come by (the entire season tends to be sold out by Opening Day). Show up an hour or so before a game, and you can sometimes find a season-ticket holder trying to sell unused seats (and ticket brokers always have seats available -- for a price).

7. Take a Break -- Julius Meinl

Run by an Austrian coffee company, this cafe is a mix of Old World and New. Large picture windows make it feel bright and inviting, while the European pastries and coffee (served elegantly on silver trays) are a welcome change from standard chain coffeehouses. 3601 N. Southport Ave. tel. 773/868-1857.

8. Southport Avenue

This residential area is well into the gentrified stage (witness the number of trendy clothing boutiques), but it's still very much a neighborhood. Stroll along Southport between Belmont Avenue and Grace Street, and you'll see young moms pushing designer strollers, singles walking their dogs, and hardly any other tourists. If you're here in the early evening, you'll find plenty of low-key, affordable restaurants for dinner.

9. Buddy Guy's Legends

Chicago is the birthplace of "electric blues," that rocking blend of soulful singing and wailing electric guitars. To experience the city's most famous form of music, my top pick is Buddy Guy's Legends in the South Loop, which has the honky-tonk feel of a Southern roadhouse. The owner, blues guitarist and Rock and Roll Hall of Famer Buddy Guy, makes regular appearances; even if he's not on the bill, the talent level is always top-notch. (If you're staying on the North Side of the city and would rather stick close to home, try Kingston Mines, Blue Chicago, or B.L.U.E.S.)

Map: http://www.frommers.com/images/destinations/maps/jpg-2006/6_chicagoin2days.jpg 

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020790.html

In Three Days

For this itinerary, it's time to escape downtown completely and spend the day on the North Side of the city. You'll start out in Lincoln Park, which is both an actual park and the name of a popular residential neighborhood, where singles and young families can be seen strolling or jogging along the lakefront paths during nice weather. You'll also visit two major cultural institutions, both suitable for kids, and then head into a residential neighborhood for some shopping. Start: Bus no. 151 or 156 to North Cannon Drive and Fullerton Parkway.

1. Lincoln Park Zoo

A beloved local institution, this zoo won't dazzle you a la San Diego, but it does a good job of covering all the bases, with a mix of indoor habitats and naturalistic outdoor environments (plus, did I mention it's free?). Don't miss the Regenstein African Journey exhibit (which re-creates both a tropical jungle and a dusty African savanna), and the internationally renowned Great Ape House. If you have kids, stop at the Children's Zoo, where a unique climbing structure gives little ones 2 and older a chance to release some energy.

2. Farm-in-the-Zoo

Just south of the zoo, this re-creation of a working farm gets children in touch (literally) with animals. The highlight for many little ones is the giant John Deere tractor; you'll usually find a line of kids waiting for their turn to sit behind the massive steering wheel.

3. Take a Break -- Big Cats Café

This cafe, on the roof of the zoo's gift shop, has outdoor seating and panoramic views over the zoo. 2200 N. Cannon Dr. tel. 312/742-2000.

4. North Avenue Beach

Come summer, this is Lincoln Park's prime playground -- a place to jog, play volleyball, build sandcastles, or simply pose. Even in August, the water is usually icy, but if you want to at least dip your feet in Lake Michigan, this wide stretch of sand is the place to do it.

Take a taxi to the corner of Halsted Street and Armitage Avenue.

5. Armitage Avenue

To call this the city's chicest shopping strip isn't meant as a put-down to Michigan Avenue; while the Mag Mile goes for big and showy, the boutiques along Armitage tend to be smaller and more personal (that is, fewer chains). You'll find an especially appealing selection of home decor stores and gift shops with eclectic selections of well-designed merchandise.

Take a taxi to the corner of North Avenue and Damen Avenue, then walk north along Damen.

6. Bucktown

If you're not shopped out yet, finish up the day with a walk through Bucktown, home to the city's highest concentration of edgy clothing boutiques. It feels grittier than Armitage Avenue, and that's part of the appeal for the cool kids who live here.

7. Take a Break -- Northside Café

Bucktown's unofficial neighborhood hangout, this low-key cafe is a sandwich spot by day and a bustling bar by night. When the weather's nice, grab a seat on the outdoor patio and people-watch with everyone else. 1635 N. Damen Ave. tel. 773/384-3555.

8. Improv Comedy

Although it's best known for Second City, Chicago is home to a number of excellent improv comedy troupes. You can catch rising stars before they land their own sitcom deals. Second City is the big man on campus, while iO is the slightly scrappier and more creative bunch. If you're here with older kids or teens, catch the family-friendly ComedySportz.

Map: http://www.frommers.com/images/destinations/maps/jpg-2006/6_chicagoin3days.jpg 

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020791.html

Walking Tour 1: The Loop

Start: The Sears Tower.

Finish: Harold Washington Library Center.

Time: 2 to 3 hours.

Best Time: Daytime, particularly weekdays when downtown businesses are open.

Worst Time: Late evening, after shops and offices have closed.

Walk through the Loop's densely packed canyon of buildings, and you'll feel the buzzing pulse of downtown. While you'll pass plenty of modern high-rises, you'll also get a mini lesson in architectural history, as you survey the progression of the city's skyscrapers. Start the tour at:

1. The Sears Tower

Okay, so this 110-story megatower is no longer the world's tallest building. But it's still a bold symbol of the city and one of the centerpieces of its skyline. If it's a clear day (and you've got the time), take a trip up to the Skydeck before heading off on your tour: to the east you'll look out over the lake, to the northwest you can watch planes take off from O'Hare Airport, and to the north you'll be able to see all the way to Wisconsin.

Walk north along Wacker Drive until you arrive at:

2. 333 W. Wacker Dr.

Proof that Chicago inspires architectural creativity, this 1983 office building was designed to fit a rather awkward triangular plot (previously thought suitable only for a parking lot). But architectural firm Kohn Pedersen Fox came up with a brilliant solution, designing a curved facade that echoes the bend of the Chicago River. Walk out to the Franklin Street Bridge to get the full effect of the building's mirrored surface, which reflects the surrounding cityscape in ever-changing shades of blue, green and gray.

Across the river you'll see:

3. The Merchandise Mart

Touted as the world's largest commercial building, the Mart is a Chicago landmark as much for its place on the stage of American merchandising as for its hulking institutional look. Completed in 1931, it's occupied mostly by furniture and interior-design businesses. Perched on top of the pillars that run the length of the building are oversized busts of American retail icons, including Julius Rosenwalk (Sears), Frank W. Woolworth, and Aaron Montgomery Ward.

Walk 2 blocks east along Wacker Drive. At LaSalle Street, turn right and continue 2 blocks to Randolph Street. Turn left (east), go half a block and you'll be standing in front of:

4. The James R. Thompson Center

This postmodern cascade of glass and steel is -- depending on your point of view -- the pinnacle or the low point of architect Helmut Jahn's career. Home to offices of the Illinois state bureaucracy, it was designed to promote the idea of open government: The transparent glass walls inside allow citizens to see their tax dollars at work. Step into the atrium to check out the beehive-like atmosphere; you can even ride a glass elevator up to the 17th floor if you're not afraid of heights.

Cross Randolph Street and head south along Clark Street. On the left you'll come to an open space known as:

5. Daley Plaza

Shadowed by the looming tower of the Richard J. Daley Center -- a blocky dark monolith of government offices -- this square was named for the legendary mayor (father of the current one) and longtime czar of Cook County politics. While you're here, go ahead and do what tourists do: Take a picture in front of the Picasso sculpture.

Walk back up to Randolph Street and head east. At the corner of Randolph and State, you'll see two local landmarks: the marquee of the Chicago Theatre to your north, and the block-long Macy's (previously Marshall Field's) to the south. Continue south along State until you reach:

6. The Reliance Building

Now known as the Burnham Hotel, this building may not look impressive, but it's famous in the world of architecture. Completed in 1895, it had a remarkably lighter look than its bulky predecessors, thanks to steel framing that allowed for the extensive use of glass on the facade. It also marked the first use of the "Chicago window": a large central pane of glass flanked by two smaller, double-hung windows used for ventilation. To get a glimpse of what it looked like when it was an office building, take one of the hotel elevators up to one of the guest room floors, which still have the original tile flooring and glass-windowed office doors.

Continue south along State Street until you reach Adams Street. Ready to pause for a bite or a drink? Then turn right (west), go half a block, and stop at:

Take a Break -- In a world of chain coffee shops and fast-food joints, the Berghoff, 17 W. Adams St. (tel. 312/427-3170), feels like a flashback to Old Chicago. The bar of this 100-year-old restaurant serves several different house brews on tap, along with sandwiches and appetizers. (For a non-alcoholic treat, try the homemade root beer.) If it's lunchtime, grab a table in the main dining room; although the menu has been modified for modern, lighter tastes, the wiener schnitzel and spaetzle are always my first choice.

Go 2 blocks west along Adams Street until you reach LaSalle Street. Turn left (south) and you'll be at:

7. The Rookery

Built between 1885 and 1888, the Rookery represents a dramatic transition in Chicago architecture. (It's also one of the only surviving buildings designed by noted architect Daniel Burnham, along with the Reliance Building, above.) The name refers to the previous building that sat on this site, Chicago's original City Hall, which was a favorite spot for nesting birds; today, it's an office building. The imposing Romanesque exterior has thick masonry walls, but the inside is surprisingly open and airy, thanks to an innovative use of iron framing. The building is essentially a square built around an open interior court that rises the full height of the building's 11 stories. Walk upstairs and follow the staircase to get a glimpse of the Rookery's interior courtyard and the sublime stairway spiraling upward.

Continue south along LaSalle Street. At Jackson Boulevard, the street appears to dead-end at the:

8. Chicago Board of Trade

The city's temple to high finance, this building houses the city's commodities exchange, an echo of the days when corn and wheat from the prairie passed through Chicago on its way east. Opened in 1930, the setbacks on the upper stories are typical of the Art Deco styling of the era, as are the geometric decorative elements over the entrance. Along the building's rear (southern) wall, a 24-story postmodern addition by Helmut Jahn repeats the original's pyramid-shaped roof, maintaining the symmetry between old and new. When it was built, 45-story Board of Trade was considered so tall that the aluminum sculpture of Ceres, the Roman goddess of architecture that adorns the building's peak, was left faceless, because no one in neighboring buildings would ever be high enough to see it.

Head 2 blocks east along Jackson Boulevard to the southwest corner of Dearborn and Jackson. At 53 W. Jackson Blvd. is the:

9. Monadnock Building

This mass of stonework forms two office buildings that occupy this entire narrow block all the way to Van Buren Street. Only 2 years separate the construction of these architectural twins, but they are light years apart in design and engineering. (You'll need to step across Dearborn to fully appreciate the differences.)

Monadnock I, on the northern end, was built by the architectural firm of Burnham and Root between 1889 and 1891. To support a building of this size at the time, the masonry walls had to be built 6 to 8 feet thick (note the deeply recessed windows at street level). Monadnock II, on the southern wing, was built by Holabird & Roche in 1893. Here, steel framing was used, allowing the lower walls to be significantly narrower. The second building may have been an engineering marvel at the time, but the original Monadnock has a certain gravitas that the later addition lacks.

Walk south along Dearborn Street until you reach Congress Parkway. At 431 S. Dearborn St. you'll find the:

10. Manhattan Building

Constructed in 1891 by William Le Baron Jenny, this broad structure was viewed as an architectural wonder by many who visited Chicago during the Columbian Exposition 2 years later. To some, the eclectic use of materials and varied design of the facade give the Manhattan Building an appearance of complete chaos; others see a dynamic rhythm in the architect's choices. Today, this former office building has been converted into condos.

From the corner of Dearborn and Van Buren streets, look a few blocks west along Van Buren until you spot a triangular tower, carved with slivers of window. It's the Metropolitan Correctional Center, a 27-story jail for defendants preparing for trial in federal court downtown. The building's three-sided design derives from an attempt by the U.S. Bureau of Prisons to reform prison conditions: Cells were built along the edges surrounding a central lounge area. But it's still not a great place to hang out: To foil jailbreaks, the windows are only 5 inches wide (and have bars, to boot); although there's a recreation yard on the roof, it's enclosed on the sides and topped with wire mesh.

Walk 2 blocks east along Congress Parkway until you reach State Street. Turn left (north) to reach the entrance of the:

11. Harold Washington Library Center

This block-long behemoth, named for the city's first African-American mayor, is the world's largest municipal library. Designed by a firm led by Thomas Beeby, then dean of Yale University's School of Architecture, and completed in 1991, it self-consciously echoes the city's original grand buildings, such as the Auditorium Theater a few blocks east. I find the whole place rather off-putting -- it feels more like a fortress than a welcoming library. But judge for yourself.

Despite my distaste for the building as a whole, I do have a soft spot for the Winter Garden on the 9th floor, a lovely retreat drenched with natural light.

Map: http://www.frommers.com/images/destinations/maps/jpg-2006/6_walkingtour1:theloop.jpg 

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020033.html

Walking Tour 2: The Gold Coast

Start: Oak Street Beach.

Finish: Bellevue Place and Michigan Avenue.

Time: 2 hours.

Best Time: Sunday is the ideal day for this walk at any time of the year. On weekdays, wait until after the morning rush before setting out.

Worst Time: After dusk, when it's too dark to appreciate the buildings' decorative elements.

The Gold Coast -- as its name implies -- is Chicago's ritziest neighborhood, site of its most expensive and exclusive houses. Its reputation dates back to 1882, when Potter Palmer, one of the city's richest businessmen, built a lakeshore castle here, in what was then a relative wilderness north of the city. The mere presence of the Palmers served as an instant magnet, drawing other social climbers in their wake (and Palmer, who owned vast parcels of northside land, saw his holdings shoot up in value). This itinerary begins with a walk overlooking Lake Michigan before heading down charming tree-lined residential streets. Begin the tour at:

1. Oak Street Beach

This confluence of city and lakeshore epitomizes what Chicagoans love about our city: Facing downtown, you've got the ultimate urban vista; stare at the shoreline, and the seemingly endless expanse of water makes you feel like you've escaped the city completely. You can stroll along the sand or keep to the concrete path (but beware of speeding bikes and rollerbladers). As you head north, look across Lake Shore Drive to see a few remaining historic mansions scattered among the more modern high-rises.

The first mansion you'll pass, just north of Scott Street, is:

2. The Carl C. Heissen House

Both the Heissen House (1250 N. Lake Shore Dr.), built in 1890, and its neighbor, the Starring House (1254 N. Lake Shore Dr.), built in 1889, show the popularity of the sturdy Romanesque style among wealthy Chicagoans.

A second cluster of former private mansions, all vaguely neoclassical in outline, faces Lake Michigan north of Burton Place. The first of these is:

3. 1516 N. Lake Shore Dr.

This building is home to the International College of Surgeons; its neighbor at no. 1524 is a museum belonging to the same institution. The International Museum of Surgical Science houses a fascinating collection of exhibits and artifacts that portray the evolution of medical surgery, but it's worth visiting for its elegant interior as well, designed by Chicago architect Howard Van Doren Shaw in 1917 as a private mansion (highlights include a massive stone staircase and the second-floor library, with fine wood paneling). A third structure, 1530 N. Lake Shore Dr., is today the Polish Consulate.

Follow the lakefront path to the Chess Pavilion on your left, and continue past the patch of green where the jetty leads out to a harbor light and into the parking lot. Straight ahead is:

4. North Avenue Beach

One of the city's prime summer spots, North Avenue Beach swarms with beach volleyball players and sun worshippers from June through August. But I think it's just as worth a visit -- maybe more so -- in spring and fall, when you can take in the view without the crowds. Check out the retro-style beach house, which was designed to look like an old ocean liner.

Double back and cross Lake Shore Drive by way of the North Avenue underpass, directly west of the Chess Pavilion. From the cul-de-sac here, continue west on North Avenue 2 blocks to N. State Parkway. The imposing residence on your left, surrounded by spacious grounds, is the:

5. Residence of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Chicago

Catholicism has strong roots in Chicago, thanks to generations of German, Irish, and Polish immigrants who brought their faith along with them; our current archbishop, Francis Cardinal George, is a well-known local figure who receives regular press coverage. This Queen Anne-style mansion was built in 1885 for the first archbishop of Chicago, Patrick Feehan; it sits on the site of what used to be a cemetery that stretched between present-day North Avenue and Schiller Street. Of the 19 chimneys that march across the roofline, only 3 are still in use.

Across the street on the opposite corner of North Avenue is:

6. 1550 N. State Pkwy.

Each apartment in this 1912 vintage luxury high-rise, known as the Benjamin Marshall Building, originally occupied a single floor and contained 15 rooms spread over 9,000 square feet. The architects were Marshall & Fox, highly regarded in their day as builders of fine hotels. There was once a garden entryway at the ground-floor level. Among the noteworthy architectural features adorning the exterior of this Beaux Arts classic are the many small balconies and the bowed windows at the corners of the building.

Continue west for 1 block on North Avenue and turn left, following Dearborn Street to Burton Place and the:

7. Bullock Folsom House

As its mansard roof reveals, this landmark 1877 on the southwest corner, at 1454 N. Dearborn St., takes its inspiration from the French Second Empire. (That roof, incidentally, is shingled in slate, not asphalt.) Neighboring houses at nos. 1450 and 1434 have some of the same French-influenced ornamentation and styling. Across Burton Place just to the north, at 1500 N. Dearborn St., is another example of a rival architectural fashion of the day, the Richardsonian or Romanesque Revival.

Return to the east along Burton, but before crossing North State Parkway, stop at:

8. 4 W. Burton Place

Built as a private residence in 1902 by Richard E. Schmidt for a family named Madlener, this striking building today houses the Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts. There is something very modern about its appearance: The structure's clean lines and the ornamentation around the entrance were inspired by the work of architects Louis Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright. The Society of Architectural Historians offers tours of the home on Saturdays, along with the Charnley-Persky house.

Continue 1 block farther east to Astor Street. On the northwest corner, at 1500 N. Astor St., is the former:

9. Cyrus McCormick Mansion

New York architect Stanford White designed this building, which was constructed for the Patterson family in 1893. Cyrus McCormick, Jr., bought it in 1914, and David Adler's north addition doubled the size of the building in 1927. The senior McCormick made his fortune by inventing the mechanical reaper, which made it possible to farm vast tracts of wheat on the prairie without depending on seasonal labor at harvest time. Cyrus Sr.'s heirs shared in the wealth, and eventually so many members of the family owned homes near Rush and Erie streets, just south of the Gold Coast, that the neighborhood was known as "McCormicksville."

Like the Fifth Avenue mansions White and his contemporaries built in New York, the McCormick palazzo is an essay in neoclassical detailing. Square and grand, like a temple of antiquity, the construction combines Roman bricks of burnt yellow with touches of terra-cotta trim. The building now is divided into condominiums.

Head north briefly on Astor Street to check out a home with a connection to presidential history:

10. 1525 N. Astor St.

This attractive town house was once the residence of Robert Todd Lincoln, the only surviving child of Abraham and Mary Todd Lincoln. The younger Lincoln started a private law practice after the Civil War. He remained in Chicago for much of his life, leaving twice during the 1880s and 1890s, to serve under presidents James Garfield and Chester Arthur as Secretary of War, and later under Benjamin Harrison as ambassador to Britain. On the death of George Pullman, one of his major corporate clients, Lincoln became president of the Pullman Palace Car Company in 1897.

Reversing direction, walk south along Astor Street. Notice the houses at:

11. 1451 & 1449 N. Astor St.

The former, occupying the corner lot, is the work of Howard Van Doren Shaw, built in 1910 according to the so-called "Jacobethan" fashion; a combination of Jacobean and Elizabethan, it revives certain 16th- and 17th-century English architectural features, including narrow, elongated windows, split-level roofs, and multiple chimney stacks. The house at no. 1449 was built around the turn of the century, but the architect of this glorious chateau remains a mystery. Guarding the home's entrance is a somewhat intimidating stone porch, seemingly out of scale. Among the home's other unique characteristics are the big front bay and frieze below the cornice, a scroll decorated with a pattern of shells.

Another neighboring home of interest across the street is:

12. 1444 N. Astor St.

While most of the homes in this area were built in the late 1800s and early decades of the 1900s -- and most took their cues from architectural fashions from centuries before -- this house was on the cutting edge of style when it was built in 1929. An Art Deco masterpiece, it was designed by Holabird & Roche, the same firm that designed Soldier Field football stadium a few years earlier.

Next, walk to 1412 N. Astor St., site of the:

13. Thomas W. Hinde House

This 1892 home, designed by Douglas S. Pentecost, is an homage to the Flemish architecture of the late Middle Ages. The facade has been altered, but some of the original stone ornamentation remains, as do such dominant features as the multipaned, diamond-shaped windows.

On the same side of the street, at 1406 N. Astor St., is the:

14. Joseph T. Ryerson House

David Adler designed this 1922 landmark home in the manner of a Parisian hotel. Adler himself supervised the 1931 addition of the top floor and the mansard roof. Woven into the wrought-iron grillwork above the entrance are the initials of the original owners.

Walk to 1365 N. Astor St. to see the landmark:

15. Charnley-Persky House

Shortly before he left the firm of Adler and Sullivan, a then-obscure draftsman, Frank Lloyd Wright, played a major role in designing this 1892 home. The house's streamlined structure gives it a far more contemporary look than its neighbors, making the case that there is something timeless in Wright's ideas. The building -- appropriately enough -- is now the headquarters of the Society of Architectural Historians, which gives tours of the house on Wednesdays and more extensive tours including the surrounding area on Saturdays (visit www.sah.org or call tel. 312/915-0105 for details).

Walk back to Schiller Street. Cross the street and turn left on North State Parkway, continuing south until the middle of the block to 1340 N. State Pkwy., the original:

16. Playboy Mansion

Little did the original owner of this building, an upright Calvinist named George S. Isham, know how his house would be transformed a mere half-century after it was built in 1899. Playboy founder Hugh Hefner lived here from 1959 to 1974, romping with his Bunnies and celebrities in the indoor pool and lounging in silk pajamas while perusing page layouts in his bedroom. Today, that hedonistic past has been erased, and the building has been converted into high-priced condos.

Continue south on State, then swing east on Goethe Street, back to Astor Street. On opposite corners diagonally across Goethe Street are apartment towers that represent the trend toward high-rise living that began in the 1930s:

17. 1301 & 1260 N. Astor St.

Constructed by architect Philip B. Maher in 1932 and 1931, respectively, these apartment buildings are classics of the sleek modernism that characterized American commercial architecture after World War I. Contrast their timeless style to the 1960s apartment tower at 1300 N. Astor St., by architect Bertrand Goldberg; avant-garde at the time, it has not aged as well.

If you're ready for a snack, turn back north to Goethe Street and head west 2 blocks to Dearborn St. Turn left (south), and go halfway down the block until you reach:

Take a Break -- The welcoming Third Coast coffeehouse, 1260 N. Dearborn St. (tel. 312/649-0730) is more laid-back than the elegant neighborhood surrounding it. Tucked below street level, it has a shabby-cozy vibe and makes a good stop for mid-morning coffee or lunch (there's a full menu of sandwiches and salads).

Head south on Dearborn Street to Division Street. Walk 1 block east to State Street, then turn right (south), staying on the east side of the street where State and Rush merge, and proceed 2 blocks south to:

18. East Cedar Street

This long block between Rush Street and Lake Shore Drive deserves a look, because much of its turn-of-the century scale has been so well-preserved, in particular the two clusters of "cottages," nos. 42-48 (built in 1896 by businessman Potter Palmer) and 50-54 (built in 1892).

Return to Rush Street, walk to the next block south, and turn left on Bellevue Place. At 120 E. Bellevue Place stands the:

19. Fortnightly of Chicago

New York architect Charles F. McKim, partner of Stanford White, built this mansion while staying in Chicago as a lead designer of the World's Columbian Exposition. It helped introduce the Georgian fashion in architecture that would replace the Romanesque Revival throughout the Gold Coast. A woman's social club has occupied the building since 1922.

Map: http://www.frommers.com/images/destinations/maps/jpg-2006/6_walkingtour2:thegoldcoast.jpg 

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020034.html

Walking Tour 3: Wicker Park

Start and Finish: The Damen El stop (Blue Line).

Time: 1-2 hours, not including shopping or eating stops.

Best Time: Any time during the day.

Worst Time: After dark, when you'll have trouble seeing homes' decorative details.

Wicker Park, along with adjacent Bucktown, is mostly known today as a place to shop at edgy clothing boutiques or try out the latest hip restaurant. This tour takes you along the residential side streets that many tourists overlook, but which testify to the rich history of this neighborhood. Middle-class artisans, mostly Germans and Scandinavians, began settling here around 1870. In the following decades, wealthy families whose foreign roots made them unwelcome along the Gold Coast built luxurious homes here as well. In the 20th century, the neighborhood's respectability gradually declined, and many of the grandest homes were converted into rooming houses. It was not until the 1980s that the distinctive homes here began to be rediscovered and renovated, just as the gritty main streets of Milwaukee and Damen avenues began sprouting new shops and cafes. Walk south along Damen Avenue to:

1. Wicker Park

Two brothers who were beginning to develop their extensive real estate holdings in the area donated this land to the city in 1870, hoping the green space would make the surrounding area more attractive to prospective builders. Unfortunately, little remains of the 19th-century landscaping, which once included a pond spanned by a rustic bridge.

Cross the park to the corner of Damen Avenue and Schiller Street. Follow Schiller east, along the park, stopping first at:

2. 1959-1961 W. Schiller St.

Built in 1886 for a ship's captain and a medical doctor, this double home reflects the fashionable Second Empire style. The building became a rooming house in the 1920s, but has been restored to its original style. Note the lively Victorian colors of the cornices, tower, and trim. Other distinctive features are the large mansard roof and the decorative sawtooth pattern in the brickwork.

Next move to:

3. 1941 W. Schiller St.

Built for clothing manufacturer Harris Cohn in 1888, this home is also known as the Wicker Park Castle. Essentially Queen Anne in design, its limestone facade made it pricier and more luxurious than its neighbors. Granite columns were polished to look like marble, and a turret rests on a shell-shaped base.

At the end of the block, turn right on Evergreen Avenue until you come to:

4. 1958 W. Evergreen Ave.

Novelist Nelson Algren lived in a third-floor apartment here from 1959 to 1975. Algren (1909-1981) is best remembered for his two dark novels of the urban semiunderworld, A Walk on the Wild Side and The Man with the Golden Arm (which was set near here, around Division and Milwaukee), and for his tough but lyrical prose poem, Chicago: City on the Make.

Continue to Damen Avenue, then turn right (north) back to Schiller Street. Take Schiller west 1 block to Hoyne Avenue, then turn right (north) where you'll see:

5. 1407 N. Hoyne Ave.

Built by German wine and beer merchant John H. Rapp in 1880, this was the largest single-family estate in Wicker Park at the time. The original coach house, behind the mansion, is now a separate residence. This was not a happy home. Mrs. Rapp went insane, a son was convicted of embezzlement, and Rapp was murdered by his female bookkeeper. The home itself is of Second Empire style, with a large, curved mansard roof. The original wrought-iron fence defines the boundaries of the original grounds.

Heading north, you'll pass other late 19th-century mansions, and, at 1426 N. Hoyne Ave., an example of a worker's cottage, a reminder that in these immigrant neighborhoods, artisans and their patrons often lived side by side. On the next corner, at Hoyne and Le Moyne Street, is the:

6. Wicker Park Lutheran Church

The city's oldest Lutheran church, it was modeled from plans of Holy Trinity Church in Caen, France, dating from the 12th century. The stone for this Romanesque structure was recycled from a demolished brothel. When one of the scandalized parishioners protested, the pastor remarked that the building material "has served the devil long enough; now let it serve the Lord."

Walk on to:

7. 1558 N. Hoyne St.

The building permit for this Queen Anne-style home was issued in 1877, making it one of the oldest homes in the area. It was built for C. Hermann Plautz, founder of the Chicago Drug and Chemical Company. Ever conscious of the Chicago Fire, the builders created all the decorative trim on both towers, the cornices, and the conservatory of the south side from ornamental pressed metal. The seemingly misplaced cannon in the front yard is a relic of the years (1927-72) when the building housed the local American Legion.

Return to Pierce Avenue and walk west to:

8. 2137 W. Pierce Ave.

This well-preserved gem is one of the highlights of historic Wicker Park. Built for the German businessman Hermann Weinhardt in 1888, it's a fanciful combination of elements that defies categorization. Notable details include the elaborate carved-wood balcony and the unusual juxtaposition of green stone and redbrick limestone around the large front window. The large lot used to be flooded in the winter for ice-skating.

Across the street is another notable home:

9. 2138 W. Pierce Ave.

The original owner of this home, Hans D. Runge, was treasurer of a wood milling company, so it's no surprise that elaborate wood carvings characterize the home inside and out; among the unique designs are the Masonic symbols flanking the pair of dragon heads under the rounded arch. A well-heeled local banker and politician, John F. Smulski, acquired the house in 1902, about the time many Poles were moving into the neighborhood. Smulski committed suicide here after the stock market crash in 1929, and the house served for a time as the Polish consulate.

As you continue west, note the stepping stone near the driveway in front of 2150 W. Pierce Ave., which visitors used when they descended from a carriage at the curb. The inscription "J. C. Horn" refers to the original owner, a furniture manufacturer. When you reach Leavitt Street, turn right (north) and walk 3 blocks until you reach:

10. Caton Street

Many of the houses on this street were built in the early 1890s by the same architectural firm, each with its own style, including "German Burgher" (no. 2156) and Renaissance (no. 2152). The Classical Revival home at 2147 W. Caton St. was built by the owner of a metal company, hence the extensive metal ornamentation on the exterior (if you peek at the porch, you'll see it has a tin ceiling).

Retrace your steps along Caton and Leavitt to North Avenue and turn left (east). As you pass Hoyne Street, take a quick look at 1617-1619 N. Hoyne Ave.; the building used to house the neighborhood livery stables, where local families kept their horses and carriages (it's now condos). The final stop on the tour is at 2039 W. North Ave., an address that used to house the:

11. Luxor Baths

These public baths were built in the 1920s and were reportedly once a hangout for local politicians and wheeler-dealers. Today, the building has been transformed into -- what else? -- condos, and there's even an elegant Asian-fusion restaurant, Spring, on the ground floor. Still, it's a fitting end to the tour, a reminder of the days when this was a neighborhood of European immigrants trading news from home in the Luxor Baths steam room.

Head east to the three-way intersection of Milwaukee, Damen, and North avenues. From here, you can hop on the Blue Line El train, or walk a block and a half north on Damen toward a favorite local hangout:

Take a Break -- Long-time residents gripe about the encroaching suburbanization of Wicker Park, where sterile bank branches have replaced funky-divey coffeeshops and where million-dollar houses no longer raise eyebrows. Still, many independently owned businesses remain, among them Caffe de Luca, 1721 N. Damen Ave. (tel. 773/342-6000), an Italian-inspired hangout where you can grab a coffee and pastry in the morning, salad or panini at lunchtime, or a mid-afternoon dessert pick-me-up. Best of all, it's a place the locals come, where you can check out a cross-section of Wicker Park residents, from grungy wannabe artists to hip moms.

Map: http://www.frommers.com/images/destinations/maps/jpg-2006/6_walkingtour3:wickerpark.jpg 

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/chicago/0006020035.html

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“Public Art” in Chicago

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Public art em Chicago, imperdível 

Posted: 07 May 2010 09:39 AM PDT

A coleção de arte pública de Chicago é reconhecida internacionalmente. São dezenas de trabalhos planejados e executados para áreas públicas, na maior parte espaços abertos e acessíveis a todos. São esculturas, monumentos, memoriais, murais, fontes e outras instalações, que se espalham pela cidade como pequenas (ou grandes) surpresas.

É preciso camelar para ver quase tudo, mas boa parte se concentra nos principais parques - Lincoln Park, Oak Park, Grant Park e o Millenium Park. Outras estão espalhadas pelo Loop e arredores.

As duas obras mais representativas estão no Millenium Park: a Crown Fountain e oCloud Gate, mais conhecido como the bean ('o feijão'). Lindos, surpreendentes!

A Crown Fountain, desenhada pelo artista espanhol Jaume Plensa, foi inspirada no povo de Chicago. São dois blocos de torres de vidro com uma piscina de águas rasíssimas no meio, onde as crianças adoram brincar. As torres projetam imagens em LED de rostos de mil moradores da cidade. O efeito da água fluindo através de um buraco nas torres dá a ilusão de que as pessoas estão ‘cuspindo’ água pela boca. É uma referência ao tradicional uso de gárgulas nas fontes, nas quais rostos de figuras mitológicas eram esculpidas com bocas abertas para saída da água, um símbolo de vida.

O Cloud Gate é o primeiro trabalho de arte pública do artista britânico de origem indiana Anish Kapoor a ser exposto nos EUA. A escultura elíptica, que pesa 110 toneladas, é inspirada no mercúrio líquido e é formada por uma sobreposição de placas de aço altamente polidas e sem contornos marcados, que funcionam como um espelho e refletem o skyline da cidade e as nuvens sobre ele. O arco no meio funciona como um ‘portão’ para entrar na câmara côncava sob a escultura, onde os visitantes podem tocar a superfície da escultura e ver suas imagens refletidas sob uma variedade de perspectivas. Este trabalho mostra a genialidade do Kapoor, para mim um dos grandes artistas da atualidade. Incrível mesmo!

Há tantos outros trabalhos que é difícil escolher o que postar aqui! A seguir, uma amostra de outras public art em Chicago que chamaram minha atenção. As fotos sem créditos são minhas, as demais estão identificadas.

A God Bless America, de J. Seward Johnson Jr., é outra interessante. Inspirada em um famoso quadro de Grant Wood de 1930, “American Gothic”, mostra um casal de fazendeiros americanos coloniais. É uma das imagens de arte do século XX mais familiar aos americanos, e uma das mais parodiadas também. Na instalação itinerante de Johnson Jr., o casal de fazendeiros ganha malas e viaja pelos EUA. Esta foi montada em 2008 e veio de Key West, na Florida. Está atualmente estacionada na Michigan Avenue em Chicago.

Sim, tem Picasso e Miro ao ar livre em Chicago ;-) A escultura conhecida simplesmente como The Picasso fica no Daley Plaza e foi criada a partir de uma maquete de uma escultura de Pablo Picasso de 1965 que está exposta no Art Institute of Chicago. O próprio Picasso aprovou a montagem, que virou domínio público em 1970. O Miro de Chicago, inicialmente denominado O sol, a lua e uma estrela, é de 1981 e também fica no Daley Center. Já o Flamingo de Alexander Calder, no Federal Plaza, é de 1974.

A “escultura sonora” de Harry Bertoia, criada em 1975, uma fonte que produz sons advindos de filamentos de cobre encaixados em bases de granito.

No Hyde Park, a Fountain of Time lembra o estilo do Monumento às Bandeiras paulistano.

No Grant Park, chama a atenção de longe a Agora, de Magdalena Abakanowicz, de 2006. A instalação mostra 106 figuras humanas, todas diferenciadas por algum detalhe, mas sem cabeças. Descrita pelo autor como o “eu contra o mundo todo”.

Se quiser saber mais, o blog Public Art in Chicago mostra uma coleção bem completa destas obras.

fontes de pesquisa:

http://www.millenniumpark.org/

http://www.explorechicago.org/city/en/supporting_narrative/attractions/dca_tourism/Featured_Public_Art.html

http://www.chicagotribune.com/entertainment/arts/chi-publicart-080501-gallery,0,7905996.photogallery

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago