Overall Design Changes
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Template (copy and paste the template below for your part and insert it in numerical order). Make sure that the template title is “header 2”.
Convention: Name parts by name (such as “cylinder”, cylinder tabs, drawer, drawer rails, roller guide holder, roller guide cam etc) with part number in parentheses. Capitalize part names for clarity. For multiple unique parts, name each part when convenient (such as Middle Rib or Outer Rib), and number them uniquely (176 Middle or 176 Outer). Optional: Use Mediawiki syntax for exportability to CEB-Fab on Wiki (see Drawer section). Right and Left hand side of machine is determined by looking from the brick ejection side (side away from tractor loading). Load Bearning refers to components which hold or bear the force of the cylinders. Index convention:
1. Step x
- Insight or Quality Control Check (if applicable)
2. Step y
(etc)
1. Welding 59
- Brush clean a table surface.
- Test flatness of table by getting a known straight piece of metal and resting it on the table- then look for gaps between the material and the table surface. Alternatively, use a digital inclinometer and slowly slide it across the table surface while pressing the inclinometer down (to prevent it from tipping over slightly and giving false reading).
- Set 101’s parts on the flat table.
- Position 59 in place with holding magnets
- Use speed square to ensure that 59 is perpendicular to the 55/57 plate.
- Use speed square to ensure that 59 is flush with the top edge of the 55/57 plate.
- Tack weld on opposite weld edges to keep 59 perpendicular with the 55/57 plate.
2. Weld the 58 before welding the 56s. Make sure that the top of the assembly is flat.
(etc)
1. Drilling 26, Lower Press Foot
- Use a speed square to check level of the piece as it will be directly pressing into
102: Cylinder Press Foot
-Use a surface grinder with magnetic table if piece is not level relative to the Press Foot
2. Slide Press Foot Collar over shaft until it bottoms out on the cylinder and check flushness with top of cylinder shaft.
-Collar should be as tight as possible with no lateral wobbling.
-Use calipers to measure the length of the collar compared to the length from the top of the shaft to the cylinder’s lip.
-If collar level is above the cylinder shaft:
1. Place the collar in a milling machine’s vice.
2. Use an “end mill” to take off the difference between the shaft and collar.
-We are aiming to get the collar flush with or slightly below the top of the cylinder shaft
-Mill no more than .020” the first time, .015” the second, “.01 the third and so on
3. Weld the Press Foot Collar onto the Lower Press Foot
-Make sure to surface grind the Press Foot if necessary
-Use a straightedge to draw lines from corner to corner to find the center of the piece. Center punch where the lines intersect.
-Use a compass to draw a circle from the center whose diameter is equal with the inside of the collar.
-Align the collar on the circle and use two C Clamps to hold onto a steel table.
-Tack the collar onto the press foot in four places
- Remove the C Clamps and weld all the way around the collar.
4. Drill through the Press Foot Collar and Gladiator Cylinder shaft
-After welding the collar to the Lower Press Foot, replace the vice on the milling machine with a pipe vice. Make sure it is square on the table by using a speed square to line it up.
-Clamp the cylinder in the vice and slide the collar on until it bottoms out. Tack the collar onto the cylinder to keep it from moving while drilling.
-Install a ¾” drill bit (at least as long as the combined width of collar/shaft) on the milling machine. It must be long enough to go through the shaft and collar in one pass (or risk misaligned holes).
-Using digital readouts, touch the drill bit to one edge of the collar and set the respective axis to zero. Lift up and go to the other side of the collar. Divide the number on the X axis by two and find the middle of the collar by moving the bit back to said number.
-Now move the collar along the other axis towards the top of the collar, lower the bit and touch it to the top of the collar. Set the respective axis to zero.
-We want to move the bit one inch inwards on the collar, so measure the bit’s width with calipers and divide it by one half, add this to one inch and move the bit to that position on the collar.
-Set the mill at low speed and see which specific speed works best
-Proceed with drilling by turning on the mill in the direction of the bit and moving the table up (not the spindle down). Make sure the spindle is locked or all the way up.
-Go very slow, It is easy for the bit to lock up if the table crank is jerked or moved too fast.
-Use lots of cutting fluid.
102: Press Foot Assembly
Use a mill, torch, or mag drill to make the holes, they need to be big enough to plug weld between the threaded rods
1. Cut 9” U channel (Part 53 x 2)
- Measure twice, cut once. Use bandsaw.
2. Cut plates (Part 64 x 4)
-Cut precisely, such that the plates fit in the U channel flush or sitting slightly inside the U channel
3. Punch 13/16” holes in plates
-Find dead center, use precise measuring tools. Center punch to guide the hole punch.
-Using 13/16” punch required two people, one to hold the plate and one to operate the punch.
4. Weld nuts onto plates
-Assemble nuts and bolts on the plate for tacking only. After tacking, remove the bolts and weld the nuts around
5. Weld plates onto U channel
-First, measure exactly 7” from hole edge to hole edge. Keeping a precise 7”, weld the plates flush inside the U channel.
-Grind the welds so they are flat and flush in the U channel.
1. Set up your workspace for the 5’x10’ sheet
-Two sawhorses, C clamps, vice grips, measuring tools, and good pens/scribes
-Fine tipped pens with lots of ink.
2. Measure and mark pieces 152 and 165
- Measure twice, cut once. Measure everything with precision.
3. Cut pieces 152 and 165
-For torching, clamp a straight guide
-In the future this would be a great job for the torch table
4. Measure and mark sides of hopper
-These two pieces are identical.
-Use fab diagram dimensions to triangulate the corners that have awkward angles. Use precise measurements.
4. Measure and mark piece with 6’ lip
-Use the fab drawing to triangulate the corners of the awkward shapes
-Remember that the front and back pieces are NOT identical to each other.
5. Cut piece
6. Measure and mark pieces 164 and 166 and the second large piece
-It’s tight, so really follow the fab drawing. Don’t try to use the cut edge for piece 166, it has to be cut on all 4 sides, otherwise the other pieces won’t fit on the sheet.
7. Cut all pieces
-Trim off your scrap as you go so you don’t have pointy edges in your workspace
8. Grind edges
-If you are in a hurry, grind the large pieces of the hopper first because they are more critical to finishing the rest of assembly.
Guards:
9. Measure, cut, grind pieces 155 (2), 150 (2), and 167.
10. Punch holes in the lip to match holes in the frame
11. Use a brake to get right angle lip on one side of the guard. Check against the built structure to ensure second lip is broken to fit snugly. A slightly too loose fit is acceptible, but a fit that is too tight is not acceptible.
12. Attach to frame after core structure is complete. Torch holes to match punched holes in guards.
1. Measure and mark wall Pieces 84-86 to fit interface plate
- Ironworker to cut
- Cut long walls into short pieces first, to be welded together (more precise than torching the long walls in one piece)
-When cutting angled walls, cut angle first, then cut out the sides of Pieces 86 to make an angle that’s identical for each wall.
2. Tack weld the walls onto the interface plate
-Part 84 (vertical wall) needs to be welded offset to the interface plate. See fab drawing and follow it exactly. Tack weld this first
-Parts 86 (short walls) tack weld next, making sure the angled tip meets flush with the end of the interface plate so that Part 85 fits perfectly
-Tack weld, then make sure the hopper fits snugly inside the saddle
3. Weld Hopper Saddle completely
4. Mount Hopper Saddle onto core structure.
-The slanted side is the side with the shaker and vertical hopper wall.
1. Cut 2x2 tube to specified lengths
2. Hinge Back #95 will be bolted to the grate frame, so be sure to drill holes in the grate and weld on the nut, then mark the holes on both Hinge Backs accordingly.
3. Align the hinge on #94 plate so that the hinge is centered and square on the plate. Clamp to a metal table and tack weld the hinge to the plate.
4. Now align the Hinge Back so it is also centered.
***Be sure to keep the holes you marked on the bare side of the Hinge Back for easy drilling later.
5.
1. Cut Vertical Frame Members (52) to length
2. Punch
==Part 110: Main Frame Assembly==
#Lay the Frame Channels (parts # 52) on a table in parallel with the channel sides facing away from each other.
#Place the Press Foot (part # xx) and the Compression Short Sides (parts # 107) between the Frame Channels. The Compression Short Sides should be placed in the same orientation that the Frame Channels are, they should be touching the Frame Channels, and the Press Foot should be wedged between them.
#Making sure that all of the parts are snugly connected, clamp the Frame Channels to the table, and clamp the Compression Short Sides to the Frame Channels.
#Place the Channel, Main Frame (parts #50) on the Frame Channels and perpendicular to them flush with the edge of the Frame Channels and so the flat side of the channel is down.
#Clamp the Channel, Main Frame part to the Frame Channels on either side making sure to leave room for the drill.
#Clamp the Channel, Frame part (parts # 51) to the opposite side of the Frame Channels making sure there is an equal distance between the Frame Channels as on the other side.
#Match drill each hole through the Channel, Main frame part and the Frame Channels.
#Bolt the Channel, Main Frame to the Frame Channels as each hole is match drilled.
#Move to the other end of the Frame Channels and repeat the match drilling process using the Channel, Frame part (parts #51).
#Mark the parts so its easy to determine which pieces align with which bolt holes.
#Flip the entire assembly over and add the other Channel, Frame part and the other Channel, Main Frame part using the same procedures. The Channel, Main Frame parts should be bolted to the same end of the Frame Channels.
Marcin’s Overview - Procedure without 6”x12” FrameSpacer Jig
#Punch holes in Load-Bearing Frame Members (51 and 100).
#Mill out holding holes for Compression Short Side (107) and for Cylinder Support Weldment (105) and sensor support.
##QC: Oversize Compression Short Side holes by 1/16” and elongate them by ½” in each direction
##QC: Put sensor hole on the right hand-side Vertical Frame Member.
##QC: Make sure you have holes done for the Compression Short Side and Cylinder Support Weldment on bot vertical members, but only on the right hand Vertical Frame Member for the Sensor Holder. The Sensor Holder must be on the same side of the machine as the microcontroller.
#Use the Hardened Compression Plate as a spacer, along with the Cylinder Support Weldment, to generate the proper spacing for the frame
##QC: Finish the drawer before the Main Frame Assembly is done to assure proper Left-Right fit of the Drawer in the machine. To assure proper top-bottom fit of frame, stand the machine on the top end of the frame (prior to attaching Hopper Seat.
##QC: Coordinate Press Foot fabrication such that the Sensore Holder Nut on the underside of the Press Foot is towards the Front Right of the Press Foot.
#Match drill through the Horizontal Load Bearing Frame Members to assemble the frame, starting on one side and then fliipping the machine over to the other side.
#Mount Rear Cover of Main Frame Asembly and mount cylinder
##Put fittings on cylinder
##QC: verify cylinder length by measuring
##QC: verify perpendicularity of Press Foot. If not perpendicular, mill it to the desired angle.
#Strech frame by running cylinder.
Part 111: Drawer -
==Drawer==
See Fabrication Diagram and Master Index for part numbers. Orientation convention: front is the ejection side of drawer, rear is drawer cylinder attachment side. Top is side of hopper, bottom is side of compression chamber.
#Tack two sets of rail assemblies (70 + 71) together
##Instead of 5/8" thickness for outer rail (70), use 1/2" thickness on one rail
##Tack so that the 5/8" (70) can be replaced with 1/2" (70’) if needed
##Grind tacks off top surface of rail assembly
##QC - work on a flat surface, so top side is within 1/64" inch even for both rails
##QC: Throughout process, brush off dirt and grindings off the working table, and grind of any spatter to assure that any flatness measurements are correct
##QC - tacks ground down to surface of rails as can be felt with a flat surface
#Tack Front Wall of Drawer (76 Front) to top surface of hood (73)
#Tack middle rib (176 Middle piece of 3) to hood (73)
#Tack Mid Wall of Drawer (76 Back) back to top surface of 73
##QC: Both 76 pieces are equally tall if 76 back is welded to top fo 73
#Weld 176 to 73 completely. Next will be outer 176 pieces.
##QC: Do this at this point, otherwise can’t access it for welding
#Weld front and back 76 to 73 only up to location of outer 176
#Weld the rear 76 to 73
##QC: Do not weld front 76 to 73 until rails are on to prevent 73 from warping at weld.
#Tack 2 more ribs (176)
#Tack on press surface (74) and finish weld 74 to 76 and 176 from the inside of
#Tack on the sides (2x 72)
##QC: lay top of drawer on flat welding table when tacking side walls (72). Make sure 72 and 73 are flat on the table. No more than 1/64” unevenness should occur.
#Tack on 77
##QC: No more than 1/64” unevenness from side walls (72) and hood (73)
#Tack on two cylinder tabs (78)
#Tack on Rail Assembly (70+71) to rest of Drawer Assembly (111)
#Tack on Rebar Spacer (177)
##QC: Top of Rail Assembly must be within 1/64” of surface of Hood (73) and Sides (72)
##QC: Grind off tacks, lay on flat welding table, and verify that height of drawer is 6” tall within 1/16” of tolerance
#Finish weld
##QC: Drawer is 6” tall within 1/16” of tolerance