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GETTING YOUR SWIMMING POOL UP AND RUNNING        3

A BASIC OUTLINE OF YOUR CIRCULATION SYSTEM        3

FILTRATION SYSTEM (Sand Filter)        3

BACKWASHING YOUR SAND FILTER        5

STARTING UP THE CIRCULATION SYSTEM (cyclone filter)        6

CLEANING YOUR CYCLONE FILTER.        6

VACUUM CLEANING YOUR POOL        7

WATER LEVEL IN YOUR POOL        9

CONDITIONING & STABILISING THE WATER IN YOUR NEW POOL        10

SANITISING YOUR POOL        12

WHEN TO DOSE WITH CHEMICALS        13

SWIMMING POOL WATER TESTING        14

PROBLEMS CAUSED BY CHEMICAL IMBALANCE AND THE SOLUTIONS        14

ROUTINE SUMMER POOL MAINTENANCE        15

DAILY ROUTINE        15

WEEKLY ROUTINE        16

MONTHLY ROUTINE        16

WINTERISING YOUR POOL        16


GETTING YOUR SWIMMING POOL UP AND RUNNING

A BASIC OUTLINE OF YOUR CIRCULATION SYSTEM

The pool water is drawn from the swimming pool via the surface skimmer and main drain by the circulating pump, passed through the filter and returned to the pool through the return inlet.

At the heart of the circulation system is the filter and below we describe the operation of the Sand Filter unit or Cyclone Filter supplied with your pool.

The purpose of your swimming pool filter is to remove suspended solids from the water. This function coupled with the correct chemical treatment of the water should give you a sparkling clear and safe pool environment in which to swim. It is however important that the pool owner understands fully, that even the most efficient filter will not achieve ideal pool water conditions if the chemical balance of the water is incorrect.


FILTRATION SYSTEM (Sand Filter)

The pump draws water from the swimming pool and passes it via a special multiport valve, into the top of the filter tank, from where it passes downwards through a bed of special media, which traps the dirt and solids. The filtered water is then returned to the pool via the multiport valve. It is after this point that if a heating system is incorporated it will be connected into the return pipeline to the pool.

As the filter retains more and more trapped material, the flow of water reduces and the pressure within the system rises, until a point is reached that the filter needs thoroughly flushing out. This operation is known as “BACKWASHING” the filter and will be fully described later. Imagine the filter as the dustbin for your swimming pool.

Let us now describe in more detail the functions which the filtration system can carry out as indicated on the label on the top of the multiport valve. These are as follows:

1) “FILTER”: The normal setting for the valve. Pool water is drawn through the pump, passed into the top of the filter tank and down through the filter media, via the filter underdrain system, after which it is returned to the pool .                        

2) “BACKWASH”: The setting used for flushing out the filter when it becomes overloaded with dirt. Water is drawn from the pool by the pump and enters the filter through the underdrain system in the bottom of the tank, where it loosens the media bed and forces the trapped dirt upwards and outwards through the distributor in the top of the tank and away to waste, so you lose water from the pool. The filter media is retained in the tank.

3) “RINSE”: Used to flush out any dirt trapped in the pipelines after backwashing, only required for 10 seconds. The water follows the same path as when on “ FILTER” except that the water exits to waste instead of returning to the pool.        

4) “RECIRCULATE”: Allows pump to circulate pool water without passing it through filter tank. Allows the heating and chemical dosing equipment to remain in use if filter tank is out of operation.

5) “WASTE “: Runs water from pool direct to the drain. Used when lowering pool water level or for vacuuming a heavily contaminated pool without overloading the filter media bed.

6) “CLOSED”:  Use this only when the pump is switched off. This position is used where filtration equipment is sited below pool water level (most are not). Allows pump lid to be removed and strainer basket to be cleaned, provided that all pump suction valves are also shut off.

IMPORTANT NOTE: THE FILTER PUMP MUST ALWAYS BE SWITCHED OFF PRIOR TO MOVING THE HANDLE OF THE MULTIPORT VALVE.

Heating a pool can be achieved by several different methods and it will be necessary to refer to the manufacturer's instruction manual to ensure correct operation of their equipment.

Similarly, there are so many varied types of automatic dosing equipment that the pool owner should once again refer to the manufacturer's instruction manual.


STARTING UP THE CIRCULATION SYSTEM (Sand Filter)

Before attempting to run the circulation system, make sure that the pool water level is correct see later section.

When the filtration equipment is installed above the water line, it will be initially necessary to prime the pump as follows before proper circulation can be achieved.

1. Open the main drain valve, on suction side of pump, and allow water to flow down into the pump & fill the pump basket with water from a hose.

2. Set the multiport valve to “BACKWASH”, switch on filter pump and backwash the filter (new filter sand must be cleaned of small impurities) as described below but for a minimum period of four minutes. As the pipework system is not fully charged with water, it may take several minutes for the pump to expel the air from the system and start to pump water at full flow. Once full flow is achieved then start to time your backwash. The water will now  flush out the finings and impurities in the filter sand bed.

3. Either, after four minutes or once the water level reaches 25mm above bottom of skimmer opening, switch off pump, set multiport valve to “RINSE” ,switch on pump for approximately 10 seconds to flush debris from pipework, switch pump off  and set handle to “FILTER”.

4. Once you have carried out the full backwash procedure, top up water level to center line of skimmer opening if necessary,  restart the pump and the pool should be fully operational. Check the pressure gauge reading on the multiport valve or  top  of the filter tank, depending on the model of filter you have and make a note of this as your “Clean running pressure” for future reference.


BACKWASHING YOUR SAND FILTER

After a while the situation arises when the filter becomes overloaded with trapped material and needs to be “BACKWASHED”, this point is indicated when the reading on the pressure gauge fitted to the multiport valve or filter tank rises by a maximum of 4 p.s.i. or 0.25 bar above the clean running pressure. However, regardless of pressure, the filter should be backwashed at least once every ten days. The backwash sequence of operations is as follows:

a) Ideally ensure that the pool water level is approximately 25mm above the centre-line of the surface skimmer opening, as you will be disposing of pool water to waste in the process of backwashing.

b) Switch off pump, set multiport valve handle to “BACKWASH”, switch on pump and allow to run for 2 minutes. If you are fortunate enough to have a filter with a clear plastic lid in the top, then instead of timing your backwash you can observe the flow of water and go to the next stage when the water runs clear.

c) After 2 minutes or when the water runs clear, switch off pump, set multiport valve handle to “RINSE”, switch on pump and run for 10 seconds minimum.

d) After 10 seconds, switch off pump, set multiport valve handle to “FILTER”, and switch on pump.

The backwash should now be complete and the pressure gauge reading should have dropped back to the clean running pressure which you noted when first starting up your filtration equipment from new.

Always remember to top up the pool level after every backwash.


STARTING UP THE CIRCULATION SYSTEM

Before attempting to run the circulation system, make sure that the pool water level is correct see later section.

When the filtration equipment is installed above the water line, it will be initially necessary to prime the pump as follows before proper circulation can be achieved.

Re Priming the Pump.

  1. Turn pump off (from hand)
  2. Turn Main drain, Skimmer and vac valve off.
  3. Turn the small blue valve that leads to the auto dosing off (this is near the sand filter multiport valve) [only if auto dosing is fitted]
  4. If your plant room is below water level. Turn the red valve marked cold water to heater off.
  5. Remove the lid of of the pump and fill with water to the top and replace lid
  6.    If your plant room is below water level. Turn the red valve marked cold water to heater off.
  7. Open the air blead valve on the top of the sand filter.
  8. Simultaneously turn on the pump (hand) and a split second latter open the main drain valve.
  9. Wait 2 mins, water should start to flow into the pump.
  10. If no water in 2 mins. Turn off the main drain valve then turn off the pump. Repeat steps 1-6
  11. Once water flowing into the pump and the sand filter is full of water (no hissing of air) turn off the air blead valve.
  12. Open the skimmer valve for a short period, air will flow in to the pump basket. Do not allow to run dry. By turning on and off till all the air out.
  13. Open the small blue sample valve on the auto dosing (very important) [only if auto dosing fitted]

. Once you have carried out the priming procedure, top up water level to center line of skimmer opening (or middle of the circular cut out if overflow model) if necessary. Check the pressure gauge reading on the top  of the filter tank and make a note of this as your “Clean running pressure” for future reference.


CLEANING YOUR CYCLONE FILTER.

After a while the situation arises when the filter becomes overloaded with trapped material and needs to be cleaned this point is indicated when the reading on the pressure gauge fitted to the filter tank rises by a maximum of 4 p.s.i. or 0.25 bar above the clean running pressure. However, regardless of pressure, the filter should be cleaned at least once every ten days. The cleaning sequence of operations is as follows:

Cleaning Cyclone Trap

  1. Turn off pump
  2. Turn off Main Drain, Vacuum Skimmer and Return Valves
  3. Place Bucket under drain point
  4. Open drain point valve
  5. Unscrew air release valve
  6. Once filter drained Close drain point valve
  7. Replace air release valve
  8. Turn on pump
  9. Check pool water level

Cleaning filter.

  1. Steps 1-7 of “cleaning cyclone trap
  2. Unscrew pipe connection on top of filter
  3. Unscrew retaining clamps
  4. Remove lid and filter
  5. Clean and / or replace filter
  6. Replace lid
  7. Replace clamps and tighten
  8. Replace pipe connection on top of filter
  9. Turn on pump
  10. Loosen air release valve to eject air and tighten when water flows.
  11. Check for leaks, tighten clamps or connections if need be.
  12. Check pool water level

Always remember to top up the pool level after every clean.


VACUUM CLEANING YOUR POOL

From time to time the floor of your pool will need to be vacuumed to remove any dirt, dust, debris  or dead algae which has settled there.

The method of vacuuming is as follows:

First assemble the vacuum head to the handle and vacuum hose. (Some hoses have a special swivel cuff fitted to one end and it is this cuff which should be connected to the vacuum head).

Now with your hose coiled by your side at the poolside, gently lower the vacuum sweeper head by its handle to the pool floor and then slowly feed your hose into the pool pushing it under water as you feed it in, the importance of this being to ensure that no air is trapped in the hose. Finally connect the open end of the hose into the vacuum point, keeping it under water all the time.

IMPORTANT ! ALWAYS CLEAN OUT ANY STRAINER BASKETS AND BACKWASH OR CLEAN THE FILTER BEFORE AND AFTER VACUUM CLEANING.

You are now ready to start vacuuming as follows:

In conditions where a pool is very heavily soiled, especially if there is a carpet of dead algae on the floor after shock dosing with chlorine, then vacuuming direct to waste is the best solution, thus avoiding overloading your filter bed, which may result in dirt passing through the filter media back into the pool. (not applicable for cyclone filter)

However, if the pool floor is covered with leaves and debris, as is often the case when re-opening the pool in the spring, it is certainly best to remove as much of this excess rubbish as possible before vacuuming, using a either a leaf net or better still, by using one of the specially designed mains water garden hose powered leaf collection devices which are both cheap and  efficient. Taking this preliminary step will help to avoid blockages in your vacuum hose, skimmer basket, pump basket or multiport valve.

To commence vacuuming, switch off the filter pump, plug in the vacuum hose as described earlier, make sure that the multiport valve is set to “ FILTER”, switch on pump and  commence vacuuming.
(not applicable for cyclone filter)

It may be necessary to turn off the skimmer and main drain when vaccuming to increase the suction.

During the vacuuming process the suction performance of the cleaner will deteriorate steadily until it ceases to pick up the dirt satisfactorily.

The suction performance can fall off for several reasons, the first being a blockage in the pump strainer basket which would be also indicated by a drop in the filter pressure gauge reading. To empty the basket, switch off pump, set multiport valve to “CLOSED”, make sure the suction valves are closed and inlet closed, remove lid, lift out and clean basket.

Replace basket and pump lid, set multiport valve to “FILTER”, open  skimmer suction valve or inlet and switch on pump.

Should suction performance fall off and the filter pressure gauge reading rise, then the filter bed has become overloaded and needs backwashing as described earlier under the section “BACKWASHING YOUR FILTER” or Clean your filter cartridge and multi cyclone.

It is also possible that the vacuum sweeper head outlet hole or the hose itself can become obstructed, in which case the offending objects must be physically removed.

Continue these operations until the pool floor is clean, switch off pump, disconnect hose from the vac point, remove hose, handle and vac head from pool. Make sure that vacuum suction valve is closed. Now top up pool water to correct level if necessary and make sure multiport valve handle is in “FILTER” position. You may need to carry out another backwash at this point. Switch on the pump and you are now back in the normal operating mode.

Note: If you have a variable speed pump this will need increasing to speed 3 or 4.

Robot

The process of connecting the robot is the same as the regular vacuum. The robot should not be left on underneath the rolo cover as the hose can become tangled in the mechanism.


WATER LEVEL IN YOUR POOL

It is extremely important that you maintain the correct water level in your pool at all times. Allowing the water level to drop or overflow will cause irreparable damage to the shell of your pool.

If an automatic cover is fitted it will also damage the slats of the pool if this is operated with the water level incorrect.

The correct water level is a minimum of 4cm above the rail that runs along the length of your pool, or the middle of the skimmer if no cover is fitted.

The water level must a min of 2 cm below the coping stones or cover for the slatted roller cover.

Please be aware in heavy rain this may overcome the overflow and the water level should be allowed to drop before opening or closing the cover.

Please be aware that, backwashing, evaporation, using the pool will all result in the loss of water. This is normal. You should be checking the water level prior to cover operation and at least once a week.

If you pool is fitted with an overflow this may need cleaning of leaves periodically.

YOUR POOL SHOULD NEVER BE EMPTIED. DOING SO WILL RESULT IN YOUR POOL FLOATING OUT OF THE GROUND.

LIGHTING IN YOUR POOL

If specified your pool will either be fitted with a halogen or led light. This will either be fitted with a remote control or a time clock. Both lights may at some point need replacing due to the bulb failing. This is normal please contact your pool professional to have this replaced.


YOUR POOL COVER

Your pool will either be fitted with a bubble cover or an automatic slatted cover.

Bubble Cover
Bubble covers are a floating cover that sit on the surface of the water to stop evaporation and keep the heat in. You should fit these every night. Care should also be taken to prevent pets or children into the area when the cover is on as they can cause a risk of drowning.

Automatic Cover
This is a hard slatted cover that will either be solid in colour or a solar variation. A key will be provided to stop its operation by unauthorised persons and children, this should be removed whenever the pool is not being used. Some models will also be provided with a remote however you should still remove the key.

The cover should never be operated if the water level is incorrect, operating the cover with an incorrect water level will result in damage and charge for untangling. .

Regular cleaning with a jet wash is advised to remove any grit from the slats as this will wear the cover.

You should never attempt to use the cover with anybody in the pool and always observe is full operation open and closed.

Automatic covers may need adjustment throughout the year. Please contact your pool professional if your cover doesn’t close fully or open fully or makes any unusual sounds whilst opening.

Winter Cover  
This will need installing by a pool professional but stops leaves falling in the pool during the winter. It is made of mesh and lets water through.


CONDITIONING & STABILISING THE WATER IN YOUR NEW POOL

BALANCING THE WATER

Before applying chlorine or any other sanitising agent to the pool water it is necessary to “balance” it, which means getting the alkalinity and calcium hardness levels in balance with the pH.

TOTAL ALKALINITY

Total alkalinity is measure of the resistance to violent fluctuations in the pH of the water and this level should  ideally be maintained at between lOOmg/L and l2Omg/L, with a minimum level of not less than 8Omg/L and a maximum of not more than 2OOmg/L. The alkalinity level is raised by the use of TA plus and lowered by the use of pH minus.

We strongly recommend that you get your local pool engineer to make the initial adjustment for you, especially should the level need lowering.

CALCIUM HARDNESS

Calcium hardness is a measure of the amount of calcium and magnesium salts found in the water.

The calcium hardness level should be maintained at not less than 2OOmg/L but is perfectly acceptable up to levels in the order of 3OOmg/L - 350mg/L. As there is no absolute maximum level you will be unlikely to have to adjust downwards but to increase the level then you will need to add Hardness plus.

Once again, we recommend that you get your pool engineer to check and make the necessary adjustment for you.

pH

pH gives an indication of acid or alkaline the pool water is. The pH of the water must be maintained be between 7.2 and 7.8 the ideal being between 7.4 and 7.6. This is necessary to allow the chlorine to work effectively.

Incorrect pH levels can give any or all of the following results:

pH BELOW 7.2

Eye irritation.

Strong odours.

Corrosion.

Cloudy water.

pH ABOVE 7.6

Eye irritation.

Cloudy water.

Permits rapid growth of algae.

Reduced effectiveness of the chlorine.

Scale and calcium deposits, staining of the shell.

pH Minus used to lower the pH in most residential pools.

Check the pH level daily and if required dose with the required chemical at the rate indicated on the container by the manufacturer.

SANITISING YOUR POOL

CHLORINE

Chlorine is the most commonly used disinfectant for swimming pool water and is normally supplied in granular, tablet or liquid form.

An initial application of chlorine stabiliser (cyanuric acid ) to a newly filled pool acts as a shield to prevent the chlorine from being dissipated rapidly by sunlight and heat. This is particularly important if you are using granular shock or liquid chlorine to initially dose the pool .

The most commonly used form of chlorine is known as stabilised chlorine and comes in granular form. We recommend the use of stabilised chlorine, it is highly soluble and should be sprinkled evenly over the surface of the pool.

Shock chlorine is generally speaking not used on an everyday basis in most residential pools but is used as an occasional booster or shock treatment to kill off algae, should it start to get out of control. This material is also in granular form and should be pre-dissolved in warm water. It is not however as soluble as stabilised chlorine and tends to leave a powdery residue.

Chlorine tablets are very popular with some pool owners as they are very easy to use, simply needing to be put in the skimmer weir basket and allowed to dissolve by erosion. However they are very acidic and over use can in time cause excessive build up of cyanuric acid in the pool which can only be removed by partial drainage and refilling.

Liquid chlorine is best suited for automatic dosing, requiring the use of some form of electrically operated controller and a dosing pump. It is however often used for shock dosing a pool with a serious algae problem. Great care must be taken when using liquid chlorine as it is an extremely powerful oxidant and if splashed on skin or clothing can cause burning or severe bleaching.  Should you splash yourself, wash the affected area immediately with copious amounts of water and seek medical attention

FREE CHLORINE

Free chlorine is the amount of chlorine available for future sanitation. A chlorine residual is obtained only after the chlorine demand of the pool is met. A minimum free chlorine level of 1.0mg/l to 1.5g/l must be maintained at all times in domestic pools and in very hot spells it is recommended to increase this level to between 2.0mg/l and 2.5mg/l.

SHOCK DOSING

This should be done once a week during very hot weather, and once every two to three weeks during cooler weather. Add the recommended dose of shock chlorine to the pool, preferably when bathing has finished for the day. This should kill any bacteria or algae that might resist normal chlorine applications, and help clarify the pool water.

ALGAE CONTROL

Algae is microscopic plant life that grows in the water and forms on the walls and floor of the pool. An early sign of algae is a slippery or greasy film on the walls and floor. The regular (weekly) dosing with a good quality algaecide will help avoid growth of algae. There are also now available several “Long life” algicides which when correctly applied will give three to four months protection.

NOTE: Algicides are not generally designed to kill algae once it has appeared, they are preventatives, which to be fully effective need to be used in conjunction with a suitable sanitizer.

WHEN TO DOSE WITH CHEMICALS

- Use only when test kit indicates. (Test daily).

- Add small quantities at a time, except when shock dosing with chlorine.

- Add chemicals as near the water surface and close to the return inlets as possible to obtain the best and most even distribution.

- Never add acid close to a skimmer or ladder, or any equipment containing metal.

- Never add acid (pH minus) and chlorine to the pool at the same time, as the combination of  the two can produce a poisonous gas. A good safety precaution is to add chlorine at night and acid in the morning.

PROPER USE OF CHEMICALS

1. USE GOGGLES AND PROTECTIVE GLOVES WHEN HANDLING CHEMICALS.

2. KEEP ALL CHEMICALS OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN AND IN SEALED CONTAINERS.

3. NEVER MIX POOL CHEMICALS TOGETHER IN THE SAME CONTAINER. THE COMBINATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS CAN PRODUCE A POISONOUS GAS OR CAN EVEN CAUSE AN EXPLOSION.

4. ALWAYS DOSE POOL IN ACCORDANCE WITH MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS AS INDICATED ON CHEMICAL CONTAINERS.

5. DO NOT STORE CHEMICALS IN AN UNVENTILATED ROOM OR PLANT ROOM.

6. ALWAYS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CHEMICAL CONTAINER LABELS  BEFORE USING THE CONTENTS AND FOLLOW THEM CAREFULLY.

7. WASH YOUR HANDS THOROUGHLY AFTER USING ANY CHEMICALS.

SWIMMING POOL WATER TESTING

CHLORINE AND pH TEST KITS

The most popular form of pool water test kit is the type which has two built in clear tubes and either two or three coloured columns alongside. By filling the clear tubes with pool water, putting in the appropriate test tablets, shaking until they have dissolved and then comparing the colours it is possible to determine the the levels of pH, chlorine or bromine and in some cases alkalinity of the water.

An increasingly popular means of testing the water is the Test Strip which has three felt pads which after being dipped in the pool, change colour and indicate the chlorine, pH & alkalinity levels of the water.

NOTE. When using a test kit, follow the directions. Keep all tubes clean, and rinse thoroughly after using. Use the same test tube for each specified test only. Take a water sample from approximately  350 mm below the surface of the water.

DO NOT add chemicals to the water without first testing the water. Always make sure that any chemicals added have had at least eight hours to disperse in the water so that you will obtain a true reading.

PROBLEMS CAUSED BY CHEMICAL IMBALANCE AND THE SOLUTIONS

EXCESSIVE CHLORINE USAGE: Pool water not stabilized and/or  pH out of adjustment.

SOLUTION:  Add stabiliser /conditioner - Correct pH level

EYE & SKIN IRRITATION: pH out of balance, or Combined chlorine level too high

STRONG CHLORINE ODOUR: SOLUTION: Correct pH. Test for combined chlorine and if too high dilute

pool water from mains as necessary.

CLOUDY WATER: SOLUTION: Check pH and chlorine. Adjust pH and superchlorinate.

Add liquid clarifier. Run filtration continuously until water clears.

WATER TURNING GREEN: pH too high and chlorine residual (free chlorine) too low.

SOLUTION:   Reduce pH, superchlorinate and when clear add algaecide.


ROUTINE SUMMER POOL MAINTENANCE

DAILY ROUTINE

1. Check chlorine and pH with test kit. The best time to do this is probably in the evening, while the light is still good but not at its strongest. When holding the test set up to take your reading do not point it directly at the sun as this will give a distorted reading. To get the best result point the test set away from the sun but against an even light background.

2. Add chemicals as required to maintain correct chlorine & pH levels, remembering to allow a safe interval of time between doses to avoid dangerous reactions.

Weekly - Bi WEEKLY (in heavy use) ROUTINE

  1. Vacuum the Pool Out
  2. Empty the Pump Basket
  3. Empty the Skimmer Basket (if present)
  4. Backwash
  5. Check Chemical Levels (even if on auto dosing)
  6. Check Water Level

If weather has been exceptionally hot and/or pool has been heavily used, shock dose the pool with shock chlorine to increase the chlorine level to 5mg/l. Do this in the evening after people have finished using the pool and make sure the filter is left running for at least 12 hours. NOTE: In cooler weather conditions and with a light bathing load then the period between shock treatments can be increased to once every two or three weeks.

NOTE: We strongly recommend that you backwash your filter at least once every fortnight, even if the pressure gauge reading does not indicate the necessity. This will help keep your filter sand bed in good condition and prolong its useful life.

MONTHLY ROUTINE

If your pool is fitted with a sump pump this must be checked to see that the ground water has not built up around the pump and it is fully visible. Failure to monitor the ground water could invalidate your warranty. This is important even if the pool is winterised or not in use.

Quarterly Routine

If your pool is fitted with an Auto Dosing system the Probes will need Calbrating

If your pool is fitted with an automatic cover it will need pressure washing and pit cleaning.


WINTERISING YOUR POOL

Once you have finished using your pool for the season you must have your pool winterised to prevent damage over the winter period. This job is best left to an expert as doing this incorrectly could cause irreparable damage to the shell of your pool or the underground pipework. If you pool is still under warranty this may be required to maintain this warranty.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TURN THE FILTRATION TO YOUR POOL OFF AND LEAVE IT.

RECOMMISSIONING & SERVICING READY FOR USE.

We recommend you schedule the re commissioning and annual service of your pool early on as soon as the sun shines most pool companies will be booked solid.

This process normally takes two visits to get the pool fully operational.  If your pool is out of warranty this can be performed by the pool owner. Please contact us if you would like more information on this.


How to Backwash your Sand Filter

Weekly- Bi Weekly

1.   Attach or Roll your backwash hose if you have one
(may be pre plumbed)

2.   Turn OFF your swimming pool pump.
(<< If IntelliPool System you will need to go into the filtration menu and select backwash then follow the instruction on the screen)

3.
   Move the handle on the top of the filter to BACKWASH.

4.
   Turn the PUMP back ON (speed 4 if you have a variable speed pump) and water should flow out of the backwash line. Allow 1 – 3 minutes. On the top of the filter there is little sight glass. When you start backwashing the water should be cloudy. When the water runs clear, you are done.

5.   Turn the PUMP OFF.

6.   Turn the handle to RINSE.

7.   Turn the PUMP ON for 30 SECONDS (speed 3 if you have variable speed pump) to settle the sand back down and clear out the last bits of dirt.

8.   Turn the PUMP OFF.

9.   Move the handle back to FILTER.

10. Turn the PUMP ON, cleaning complete.

11. Purge the air from the top of the filter (small valve on top of glass dome) (if present)

12. Top up the Water level in your pool (important). 

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