Circular, Open Source Fashion Notes:

53.3% sustainability claims vague or misleading, EU sustainability claims checker – go to H&M CMA doc with clare research, greenwash.com,

fashion industry split into only a few major conglomerates, vertical optimization of production, limits opportunities for smaller brands without ally collaboration

Tech in fashion manufacturing:

·          Mainly automation is used in logistics rn eg. At warehouses

·          Sewbots by Kuka – full CMT of making tshirts done by robots, up to 10,000 a day

·          Velium by sewt – robots that fold garments

Fletcher, Earth Logic: Less, Local, Plural, Learning, Language, Governance

CFJ – intersections of ethical, animal rights and sustainability

UNEP – sustainable fashion communication playbook: counter misinformation, redirect aspirations and empower consumers

Manufacturing 4.0, 4th industrial revolution = digital distributed (pre = manual distributed, 1st = power centralised, 2nd = mechanised centralised, 3rd = digital centralised)

Openness and commons as key paradigms to industry – access to knowledge, tech and resources, transparency and inclusive participation

Richard Stallman, 4 freedoms – open source blogosphere, hacker movement

Open source is free access to the source code, freeware is free but source is controlled, public domain belongs to the whole public

Makers movements, ‘if you can’t open it you don’t own it’

RepRap, self-replicate-able 3d printer

Wealth of Networks, Yochai Benkler – commons based peer production

Open source in fashion:

·          Very hard to copyright clothing as are a ‘useful item’ with ‘intrinsic utilitarian function’, how fast fashion copycat item are legal

·          Planned obsolescence means copyrighting and protection it gives that is not super needed as designs don’t last that long

·           Why so many brands use unnecessary logos as they can be trademarked

·          RESEARCH history of craft guilds to explain culture of secrecy in fashion

·          OpenStructures – open modular construction software

·          Openness vs vertical integration, openness better for local, small scale, sustainable production

·          Zero waste as a way to remove distinction between design and manufacture

·          Agile fashion – seasonal collections vs evolving catalogue, product/customer vs platform/stakeholders

Tessellation examples:

·          Takehiro Ando

·          Kosuke Tsumura

·          Berber Soepboer

·          Nasia Burnet

·          Galya Rosenfeld

·          Mary Ann Williams

·          Matija Cop

·          Eunsuk Hur