Step 1 and Step 2 Condition Checklist

The average annual cost to properly maintain a house is 2% (of the home’s value reinvested). If this rule of thumb doesn’t hold true for you, please prepare yourself to invest the money you saved over the years into getting your home ready for the market.


Watch out or a silly $5 valve may require installation by a $75 per trip charge plumber. If you have any plans to perform (quality) do-it-yourself repairs, buy anything less than top-of-the line items, or save a buck on any repair in any way, you better do it now. Buyers just won’t be able to accept you trying to save a couple bucks when they’re agreeing to buy your house for $300,000.


It sounds harsh, but think “perfection.” You must fix all items in disrepair, perform updating, and attend to all deferred maintenance to sell for anything close to market value. Improvements in this category don’t really add value to your property. You just can’t sell (to an owner occupant) unless you do these things. If the buyer sees any size crack, they think “foundation issue” and won’t buy it.


A multi-thousand dollar spend in this category may be necessary but isn’t a value added improvement. Buyers expect a good air conditioner (hvac). If it blows cold and doesn’t look like an antique, they’re happy. A new hvac vs a fully functional 6 year old hvac doesn’t add value or motivate a buyer to place an offer.

No matter how much you do, the inspector will find issues and the buyer will try to negotiate. These are unavoidable factors of selling a house. Our goal is to maximize the number of offers and terms included in those offers as well as minimize the number of inspection issues.


____ Proper grading drainage away from house

____ No evidence of standing water

____ No leaks from septic tank

____ Yard, landscaping, trees and walkways in good condition

____ Trim foliage touching house or overhanging the roof

____ Exterior structures (fences, sheds, decks, retaining walls, detached garages) in good condition

____ No evidence of termite damage or rotted wood

____ Railings on stairs and decks are adequate and secure

____ Driveways, sidewalks, patios, entrance landings in good condition, and pitched away from structure

____ Downspout drainage directed away from structure


____ Soffit and fascia board lines appear straight and level

____ Sides of house appear straight, not bowed or sagging

____ Window and doorframes appear square (no gaps between window and brick/siding)

____ Visible foundation in good condition - appears straight, plumb, with no significant cracks

Exterior Surfaces

____ Adequate clearance between ground and wood siding materials (6" minimum); no wood-to-earth contact

____ Siding: no cracking, curling, loose, rot or decay

____ Brick/masonry exterior: no cracks in joints, no broken, spalling or flaking components

____ Stucco: no large cracks

____ Vinyl or aluminum siding: no dents, damage, no bowing or loose siding

____ Exterior paint or stain: no flaking or blisters

____ No stains on exterior surfaces

Windows, Doors and Wood Trim

____ Wood frames and trim pieces are secure, no cracks, rot or decay

____ Joints around frames are caulked

____ No broken glass (window or storm panes) or damaged screens, no broken double-paned, insulated window seals.

Tip: Make sure your windows are spectacularly clean. Not only does it look nice, it will help you avoid a common misdiagnosis of home inspectors. They often mistake dirty windows for windows with a broken seal. If an inspector misdiagnoses it, you will need to replace it.


____ Composition shingles: no curling, no cupping, no loss of granulation particulate, no broken, damaged or missing shingles, no more than two layers of roofing

____ Wood shingles or shakes: no mold, rot or decay, no cracked/broken/missing shingles, no curling

____ Flat roofs: no obvious patches, no cracks or splits, minimal blisters/"alligatoring" and wrinkles, no silt deposits (indicates improper drainage), sealed tar at flashings

____ Flashing around roof penetrations

____ No evidence of excess roofing cement/tar/caulk

____ Soffits and fascia: no decay, no stains

____ Exterior venting for eave areas: vents are clean and unobstructed

____ Gutters: no decay or rust, joints sealed, attached securely to structure, no bending or sagging, no sections of gutter or downspout missing, gutters clean, no mud deposits

____ Chimneys: straight, properly flashed, no evidence of damaged bricks or cracked joints, mortar/cement cap in good condition


____ No stains on underside of roofing, especially around roof penetrations

____ No evidence of decay or damage to structure

____ Sufficient insulation and properly installed insulation (moisture barrier installed closest to the heated area of the house)

____ Adequate ventilation, clear path into attic for air entering through soffit vents, adequately sized gable end louvers, all mechanical ventilation operational

____ No plumbing, exhaust or appliance vents terminating in attic

____ No open electrical splices

Interior Rooms

____ Floors, walls and ceilings appear straight and plumb and level

____ No stains on floors, walls or ceilings

____ Flooring materials in good condition

Tip: If you replace carpet, go with a light neutral solid color. Speckled carpet is no longer in style

____ No significant cracks in walls or ceilings.

Tip: To repair cracks, we recommend MH Ready Patch. It dries relatively quickly, maintains slight flexibility (to avoid addition cracking), and looks the most like your original wall when painted. You will probably only need quart size.

____ Windows and exterior doors operate easily and latch properly, no broken glass, no sashes painted shut, no decay; windows and doors have weather-stripping

____ Interior doors operate easily and latch properly, no damage or decay, no broken hardware ____ Paint, wall covering, and paneling in good condition

____ Wood trim installed well and in good condition

____ Lights and switches operate properly

____ Adequate number of three pronged electrical outlets in each room

____ Heating/cooling source in each habitable room

____ Evidence of adequate insulation in walls

____ Fireplace: no cracking or damaged masonry, no evidence of back-drafting (staining on fireplace façade), damper operates properly, flue has been cleaned, flue is lined Kitchen

____ Working exhaust fan that is vented to the exterior of the building

____ Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter ("GFCI") protection for electrical outlets within 6 feet of the sink(s)

____ Dishwasher: drains properly, no leaks, baskets, door spring operates properly

____ No leaks in pipes under sinks

____ Floor in cabinet under sink solid, no stains or decay

____ Water flow in sink adequate

____ No excessive rust or deterioration on garbage disposal or waste pipes

____ Built-in appliances operate properly

____ Cabinets in good condition: doors and drawers operate properly


____ Working exhaust fan that doesn't terminate in the attic space

____ Adequate flow and pressure at all fixtures

____ Sink, tub and shower drain properly

____ Plumbing and cabinet floor under sink in good condition

____ If sink is metal, it shows no signs of rust, overflow drain doesn't leak

____ Toilet operates properly

____ Toilet stable, no rocking, no stains around base

____ Caulking in good condition inside and outside of the tub and shower area

____ Tub or shower tiles secure, wall surface solid

____ No stains or evidence of past leaking around base of bath or shower


____ Cosmetic updating: metal colors match and are all stainless or bronze

____ Cosmetic painting: All paint colors are neutral colors.

Tip: paint matching at a Sherwin Williams store is far superior to paint matching at Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowes.

Tip: Kilim Beige is an ideal neutral paint color

____ Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors where required by local ordinances

____ Stairway treads and risers solid

____ Stair handrails where needed and in good condition

____ Automatic garage door opener operates properly, stops properly for obstacles

Basement or Mechanical Room

____ No evidence of moisture

____ Exposed foundation; no stains no major cracks, no flaking, no efflorescence

____ Visible structural wood: no sagging, no damage, no decay, no stains, no damage from insects, sills attached to foundation with anchor bolts

____ Insulation at rim/band joists

Crawl Space

____ Adequately vented to exterior

____ Insulation on exposed water supply, waste and vent pipes

____ Insulation between crawl space and heated areas, installed with vapor barrier towards heated area

____ No evidence of insect damage

____ No evidence of moisture damage


____ Common CSST gas piping (flexible yellow piping) must be properly grounded and bonded


____ Visible pipes: no damage, no evidence of leaks, no signs of stains on materials near pipes; drain pipes slope slightly down towards outlet to septic/sewage system

____ Water heater: no signs of rust, vented properly, sized to produce adequate quantities of hot water for the number of bedrooms in the house.

____ Water pump: does not short cycle

____ Galvanized pipes do not restrict water flow

____ Well water test is acceptable

____ Hot water temperature between 118 - 125 degrees Fahrenheit


____ Visible wiring: in good condition, no "knob-and-tube" wiring, no exposed splices, cables secured and protected

____ Breaker panel: adequate capacity, all cables attached to panel with cable connectors; fuses or breakers are not overheating, panel switches property labeled, arc fault and GFCI breakers are used where required

____ No aluminum cable for branch circuits Heating/Cooling System

____ Appears to operate well throughout (good air flow on forced hot air systems)

____ Flues: no open seams, slopes up to chimney connection

____ Electrical outlets test properly (spot check using the tool shown here)

____ No rust around cooling unit

____ No combustion gas odor

____ Air filter(s) clean

____ Ductwork in good condition

____ No asbestos on heating pipes, water pipes or air ducts

____ Separate flues for gas/oil/propane and wood/coal

Please Note: This checklist should not be relied upon as a home inspection report, nor should it be considered a substitute for a home inspection. This list is representative, but NOT exhaustive. If you require a home inspection, contact a qualified and licensed home inspector in your area.