Specrom build manual
3D printed racing wing
Share your builds and questions here:
Recommended to use eSun PLA+ or PETG filament
PLA is too brittle, ABS is hard to print.
These are parts and materials you should have prior to building the wing.
Name | Quantity | Link | Comment |
Airframe parts | |||
Filament 1.75 mm - eSun PLA+ (works best) - PETG (also Okay) | 8 strings as airframe spars 4 m - PETG for reinforcement stings | eSUN 3D Printer Filament PLA+ 1.75mm https://a.aliexpress.com/_9g6fBh PETG - locally available | regular PLA not recommended as it’s too brittle Other filaments are at your own risk |
CA glue (Cyanoacrylate) | As required | Locally available | Activator is not recommended as it warming up the joint and may cause a joint deformation |
M2 x 8 mm Phillips Flat Countersunk Cross Round Pan Head Self-tapping Screw | 8 EA - servo covers 2 EA - FWD hatch | locally available or | |
M3 x 10 mm | 2 EA - motor mount 3 EA - camera mount | Locally available or | |
M3 nuts | 2 EA - motor mount | Locally available or Aliexpress | |
Battery strap | 1 EA | To fit your battery in place | |
Servo pushrod (D1.2) | 15 mm | Connect your servos with FC | |
Servo pushrod connector | 2 EA | ||
Electronics | |||
Motor: Emax ECO II 2807 4S 1700KV | 1 EA | ||
ESC 35A minimum | 1 EA | Blheli32/S small ESC is the best option for flight controller setup | |
Prop: Gemfan Flash 7042 (for 4s) | 1 EA | ||
9g servos | 2 EA | ||
Servo lead extensions (150 mm minimum) | 2 EA | ||
4s battery (at least 1500 mAh) | 1 EA | Locally available | 18650 4s1p 3000 Mah 30A discharge pack works well |
Flight controller | 1 EA | Any controller you like (iNav recommended) | |
GPS | 1 EA | Cheap and stable, as required | |
Receiver | 1 EA | (compatible with your radio) | ELRS, TBS Crossfire, FrSky R9 or 2.4 |
Video System: Camera + VTX | 1 EA | Choose analog or DJI for your preference | |
LED lights | 2 EA | Any copter LED lights should fit |
All parts are pre-oriented in the right position - no need to rotate or move them.
No supports are required, please follow the instructions below to configure your Slicer.
Nozzle temperature and cooling fan
When printing single wall parts, you should always set the highest possible temperature for your filament without fan cooling to make sure you have a perfect layer adhesion. The temperature should be much higher than during regular printing - your thin wall should sustain high loads without layer debonding.
Ultimaker Cura settings
It is recommended to use Ultimaker Cura slicer with the following important parameters:
Tested Cura versions: 4.12.1
How to Print Thin Wall - Planeprint | Big Bobber
Parameter | A | C |
Layer height, mm | 0,2 | 0,13 |
Top layers | 0 | 4 |
Bottom layers | 0 | 6 |
Wall lines | 1 | 2 |
Nozzle dia, mm | 0,4 | 0,4 |
Infill, % | 0 | 10 |
Infill Pattern | Gyroid | |
Nozzle temp, C | 230 | 230 |
Bed temp, C | 60 | 60 |
Flow, % | 100 | 100 |
Fan | 20% | 60% |
Brim, mm | 5 | 5 |
Support | NO | NO |
Part | Profile | Filament | Weight | Time | Additional Settings |
Wing 1 LH | A | PLA+ | 41 | 2 top, 2 bottom layers | |
Wing 1 RH | A | PLA+ | 41 | 2 top, 2 bottom layers | |
Wing 2 LH | A | PLA+ | 54 | 3:59 | 1 top, 1 bottom layers |
Wing 2 RH | A | PLA+ | 54 | 3:59 | 1 top, 1 bottom layers |
Wing 3 LH | A | PLA+ | 35 | 2:19 | |
Wing 3 RH | A | PLA+ | 35 | 2:19 | |
Elevon 1 LH | A | PLA+ | 1 top, 2 bottom layers | ||
Elevon 1 RH | A | PLA+ | 1 top, 2 bottom layers | ||
Elevon 2 LH | A | PLA+ | 2 top, 4 bottom layers | ||
Elevon 2 RH | A | PLA+ | 2 top, 4 bottom layers | ||
Winglet RH | C | PLA+ | 8 | 2 top, 2 bottom layers | |
Winglet LH | C | PLA+ | 8 | 2 top, 2 bottom layers | |
Hatch FWD | С | PLA+ | 7 | 1:20 | 100% infill, Nozzle 215 C, Brim 0.0mm, Z-hop on retract |
Servo LH | C | PLA+ | 100% infill, Nozzle 215 C, Brim 0.0mm, Z-hop on retract | ||
Servo RH | C | PLA+ | 100% infill, Nozzle 215 C, Brim 0.0 mm, Z-hop on retract | ||
Motor Plate | C | PETG | 7 | 1:10 | 100% infill |
Motor Mount | C | PETG | 13 | 2:10 | 10% infill, 2 top, 4 bottom |
Nose Plate | C | PLA+ | 7 | 1:15 | |
Total | 310 | 18:31 |
I recommend you watching this YouTube video with the detailed assembly procedure
3D printed Spec wing full build video #Specrom
Use glue only in the beginning and at the end of the filament string just to fix it in place
DO NOT spill the glue across the entire filament path - this is not necessary.
As 3D printed wing are easy to build and easy to destroy, I do not recommend flying 3D printed wings as your first wing.
Before the first flight it is critical to set the CG correctly.
Remember: FWD CG wings fly bad, but AFT CG wings fly only once.
The best CG location is 5 mm to the front of the rear spar:
Wing is flying really well when the CG is at the rear spar, but launch may be a huge problem - eventually it may stall and fall down (I’ve lost few wings already)
You can use various flight controller options to fly this wing.
Please refer to the Appendix
Manual flight requires significant experience and 3d printed planes are not the best way to learn how to fly. A severe crash of this wing requires a reprint.
As an experienced line of sight pilot, you know the best way to configure expo and throws. 1 mm reflex is required to fly straight for this wing (watch the video).
Sometimes things may go wrong and you crash your wing. Depending on the severity of the crash you may decide - reprint the entire plane or just individual parts.
This example shows where wings are in a the perfect shape (PLA+) with zero damage, but the fuselage part (PETG) was completely destroyed.
In such cases you can try to detach undamaged parts and reuse again. General recommendations - heat your knife and remove
This is why it is important not to use excessive glue - you can easily remove reinforcement filament and attach new one.
When your plastic wing hits something you make, it has local cracks and damage. Before applying any glue or doublers, make sure you stop the crack from growing (it may eventually grow in the air otherwise).
Just use your soldering iron to make a hole at both sides of the crack.
After this you can either apply glue along the entire damage or add a doubler to make sure you reinforce the damaged airframe.
Do not throw away your test prints or parts that cannot be used for your wing. Keep it until you need it. One example is - to make a thing 1-wall doublers.
Just cut the patch and glue it to the surface where the damage was found. This will give you enough reinforcement to keep flying.
# mixer
mmix reset
mmix 0 1.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
# servo mix
smix reset
smix 0 1 0 -50 0 -1
smix 1 1 1 50 0 -1
smix 2 2 0 -50 0 -1
smix 3 2 1 -50 0 -1
# servo
servo 1 1000 2000 1444 100
servo 2 1000 2000 1544 100
# aux
aux 0 0 0 1700 2100
aux 1 1 1 1300 1700
aux 2 12 1 1700 2100
aux 3 53 3 1300 1700
aux 4 11 2 1300 1700
aux 5 10 2 1700 2100
aux 6 21 3 1700 2100
aux 7 54 1 1300 1700
aux 8 13 2 1700 2100
# profile
profile 1
set fw_p_pitch = 15
set fw_i_pitch = 5
set fw_d_pitch = 5
set fw_ff_pitch = 93
set fw_p_roll = 15
set fw_i_roll = 3
set fw_d_roll = 7
set fw_ff_roll = 82
set fw_p_yaw = 20
set fw_i_yaw = 0
set fw_ff_yaw = 100
set max_angle_inclination_rll = 550
set dterm_lpf_hz = 10
set fw_turn_assist_pitch_gain = 0.200
set nav_fw_pos_z_p = 15
set nav_fw_pos_z_d = 5
set nav_fw_pos_xy_p = 60
set d_boost_min = 1.000
set d_boost_max = 1.000
set rc_expo = 30
set rc_yaw_expo = 30
set roll_rate = 19
set pitch_rate = 14
set yaw_rate = 3
Overheat
This usually happens when you apply activator to the CA glue and deformation due to heat starts
Sometimes your thin vertical parts (servo covers or FWD bay hatch) may detach from the build plate at the middle of the printing.
Solution: make sure you set your Brim Distance to 0.0 mm as per print parameters. This will keep your parts from falling down.
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