USA Climbing Judge Certification Program Approved by the USAC Judges Committee on 2023-08-10 |
This document describes the USA Climbing (USAC) Judge Certification Program. The goal of the Program is to provide high-quality Judging that adheres to current USAC rules and is consistent across the nation. Specific objectives include the following:
There are five levels of certification. Level 1 is achieved through an online Learning Management System maintained by USA Climbing with content that was created in consultation with the USA Climbing Judges and Rules Committees. No climbing or judging experience is required to achieve Level 1 certification, but one must pass a Background Screening and SafeSport training in addition to the online Judge Training course (all of which are provided through an individual’s account on the USA Climbing Membership Portal). Higher-level certification is achieved through successfully judging at USAC events with a higher-level Certified Judge who can comment on an individual’s potential and performance as a Climbing Judge. Details for the Judge Certification levels and the process for requesting higher-level certification are described below.
Questions regarding the USA Climbing Judge Certification Program should be sent to the Judges Committee at judges@usaclimbing.org.
More information regarding the USAC Judge Certification Program can be found at https://usaclimbing.org/community/judges
The USA Climbing Judges Committee comprises six volunteer members (two of which are athlete representatives) and USAC Staff. Committee members are appointed by USAC Staff. The Committee was formed to support and advance the development of judging at all USA Climbing sanctioned competitions. The Committee’s activities specifically include the ongoing development and implementation of the Judge Certification Program. Further, the Judges Committee
The 2023 Judges Committee is Michael Sprague (Chair), Rebecca Ingraham (USAC Staff), Josh Calfy, Shannon Lucia, Tami Pellicane-Hart (Secretary), Tessa Raines (Athlete), and Kerry Scott (Athlete).
There are five USAC Judge Certification levels, which are described below. Those interested in advancing in their Judge Certification should keep a written record of their judging experiences. For each event served, Judges should record the event name (e.g., Region 22 Bouldering Regionals), date, location (e.g., gym name, city), Jury President’s name, the name and email of any Certified Judge(s) they worked with, description of the individual’s role at the event, and other notable information. Providing this information with the application for certification will expedite the certification-review process.
In order to maintain a current Judge Certification, an individual must maintain an active Judge Membership, which requires up-to-date SafeSport training and Background Screening, and must complete additional judge training as required by USA Climbing. In general, the online training must be completed every three years. Finally, Certified Judges are expected to stay abreast of changes to the USA Climbing Rulebook, which is updated at least once per year.
Level 1 Overview: A Level 1 Climbing Judge Membership is a requirement of all Certified Judges. The process is completed online through one’s account on the USAC USA Climbing Membership Portal and does not require judging or climbing experience. One should obtain the Level 1 Climbing Judge membership before serving as a Climbing Judge at USAC-sanctioned events. At climbing competitions, inexperienced Level 1 Judges will typically be placed in a “secondary Judge” role wherein they are paired with a more-experienced/higher-certified Primary Judge.
Level 1 Application Requirements and Process: The following steps are completed entirely online through the one’s account on the USA Climbing Membership Portal:
Level 2 Overview: Level 2 Judge Certification indicates that the Judges Committee has deemed that an individual is qualified to serve as a Primary Climbing Judge in disciplines reflected by their endorsements (Boulder and/or Lead/TR) at Qualification-, Regional-, and Divisional-level USAC-sanctioned competitions. Level 2 Certification also indicates that an individual is prepared to serve as a Secondary Climbing Judge at national-level USAC-sanctioned competitions and USAC-supported IFSC competition events.
Level 2 Application Requirements: At a minimum, one must have
Note that having successfully judged at more than two sessions and/or events strengthens one’s application.
Level 2 Application/Review Process: Once one meets, or, better, exceeds the minimum requirements, one should fill out the online form accessed at https://usaclimbing.org/community/judges/
Applicants should encourage their references to submit a reference on the “USAC Judge Evaluation Form” found at https://usaclimbing.org/community/judges/
For each application, a Committee member will determine if the minimum requirements have been met. If so, a Committee member will then solicit references from individuals that the applicant has worked with, which must include Level 2, or higher, Certified Judges. The Judges Committee, or a Committee-member delegate, will grant Level 2 Certification if the evidence indicates that the applicant is ready to serve as a Primary Climbing Judge at any Regional or Divisional Championship event.
Level 3 Overview: Level 3 Judge Certification indicates that the Judges Committee has deemed that an individual is qualified to serve as a Primary Climbing Judge in the disciplines reflected by their endorsements (Boulder and/or Lead/TR) at all USAC-sanctioned competitions and USAC-supported IFSC competition events. Highly experienced and successful Level 3 Climbing Judges may be offered opportunities to serve as a Head Judging Official (Jury President or USAC Judge) or Aspirant USAC Judge at USAC competitions.
Level 3 Application Requirements: At a minimum, one must* have
*Note that those with Level 1 Certification and successful judging experience beyond the minimum Level 3 judging requirements may apply for Level 3 certification (thereby skipping Level 2). For example, a Level 1 Climbing Judge who Judged at one or more national-level events or USAC-supported IFSC competitions, for multiple rounds, and has references from multiple Level 3 or higher USAC Certified Judges may have a strong application for Level 3. Further, those with extensive successful Regional and Divisional judging experience, but who are lacking national experience, may request an exception for Level 3 certification.
Level 3 Application Process: Once one meets, or, better, exceeds the minimum requirements, one should fill out the online form accessed at https://usaclimbing.org/community/judges/
Applicants should encourage their references to submit a reference on the “USAC Judge Evaluation Form” found at https://usaclimbing.org/community/judges/
For each application, a Committee member will determine if the minimum requirements have been met. If so, then a Committee member will solicit reference letters from individuals that the applicant has worked with, which must include Level 3, or higher, Certified Judges. The Judges Committee will grant Level 3 Certification if the majority of the Committee believes that the applicant is ready to serve as a Primary Climbing Judge (in the endorsed discipline(s)) at any national-level USAC competition or USAC-supported IFSC competition.
Level 4 Overview: Level 4 Judge Certification indicates that the Judges Committee has deemed that an individual is qualified to serve as Jury President at any USAC-sanctioned Regional- or Divisional-level championship competition. Highly experienced and qualified Level 4 Judges may be offered opportunities to serve as a Head Judging Official (Jury President or USAC Judge) or Aspirant USAC Judge at National-level USAC-sanctioned competitions.
Successful candidates will have demonstrated (1) excellent leadership abilities, (2) a comprehensive understanding of the rules, (3) the ability to apply rules in a fair and impartial manner, and (4) a temperament that allows them to remain calm, respectful, rational, and fair when presented with the frequent challenges posed by competitors, coaches, parents, volunteers, and host-facility personnel.
Level 4 Judges who do not serve as a Head Judging Official at a championship or national event for three consecutive years will be moved to inactive status and will need to serve as a Head Judging Official at a championship event and petition the Judges Committee to be moved to active status.
Level 4 Application Requirements: At a minimum, one must* have
*Note that one may ask for an exception to replace service as Jury President or USAC Judge with service as Aspirant USAC Judge at one or more events. In such cases the Judges Committee may require evidence of additional successful HJO experiences.
Level 4 Application Process: Once one meets, or, better, exceeds the minimum requirements, one should email the Judges Committee and include a cover letter that explains how one meets the minimum requirements, a detailed resume of their USAC and IFSC judging experiences, and a list of Certified Judge references, at least one of which should be a Level 4 or greater.
For each application, the Judges Committee will determine if the minimum requirements have been met. If so, then a Committee member will solicit reference letters from individuals that the applicant has worked with, which preferably includes Level 4 or 5 Certified Judges. The Judges Committee will grant Level 4 Certification if the majority of the Committee believes that the applicant is ready to serve as a Jury President at any Regional or Divisional Championship in the U.S.
Level 5 Overview: Level 5 Certification indicates that the Judges Committee and USA Climbing has deemed that an individual is qualified to serve as Jury President at any USAC-sanctioned competition.
Level 5 certification is reserved for those individuals who have shown the highest level of devotion to all aspects of judging competitive climbing. Successful candidates will have demonstrated (1) excellent leadership abilities, (2) a comprehensive understanding of the rules, (3) the ability to apply rules in a fair and impartial manner, and (4) a temperament that allows them to remain calm, respectful, rational, and fair when presented with the frequent challenges posed by competitors, coaches, parents, volunteers and host-facility personnel.
Level 5 Judges who do not serve as a Head Judging Official at a national-level event for three consecutive years will be moved to inactive status. An individual with inactive status will need to work a national-level event as a Head Judging Official and will need to petition the Judges Committee to be moved to active status.
Level 5 Application Requirements: At a minimum, one must* have
*Note that one may ask for an exception to replace service as Jury President or USAC Judge with service as Aspirant USAC Judge at one or more events. Those with extensive national-level experience, and with multiple positive Level 5 references, who repeatedly cannot serve at one or more of the required national-level events may petition for Level 5 under an exception. In considering exceptions to the minimum requirements, the Judges Committee may request additional evidence of successful National-level HJO experiences.
Level 5 Application Process: Once one meets, or better, exceeds the minimum requirements, one should email the Judges Committee and include a cover letter explaining how one meets the minimum requirements, a detailed resume of their USAC and IFSC judging/HJO experiences, and a list of Certified Judge references, at least two of which must be Level 5.
For each application, the Judges Committee will determine if the minimum requirements have been met. If so, then a Committee member will solicit reference letters from individuals that the applicant has worked with, which must include two Level 5 Certified Judges. The Judges Committee will grant Level 5 Certification if the USAC VP of Sport and the majority of the Committee believes that the applicant is ready to serve as a Jury President at any USAC-sanctioned National-level event. An ad hoc committee of current Level 5 judges may be solicited for input on Level 5 applicants.
The parties responsible for appointing Head Judging Officials (Jury Presidents and USAC Judges) for USA Climbing events is described in the USA Climbing Rulebook. For example, the following was taken from the 2023 Rulebook:
Jury President (1.8.5.b.iv):
At National Competitions, USA Climbing shall appoint the Jury President.
At the Divisional and Regional Championships, the Event Organizer shall recommend a Jury President and such recommendation is subject to any relevant certification requirements set by USA Climbing and approval by an individual with Sport Discretion.
At Qualification competitions, the Event Organizer shall recommend a Jury President and such recommendation is subject to any relevant certification requirements set by USA Climbing and approval by the Events Management staff.
In each instance, approval of a recommendation shall be presumed if the recommendation is not disapproved within fourteen (14) days following receipt of the recommendation.
USAC Judge (1.8.5.c.iv):
At National Competitions, USA Climbing appoints the USAC Judge. At the Divisional and Regional Championships and at Qualification Competitions, the Jury President, in consultation with the Event Organizer and USA Climbing, appoints the USAC Judge, though a USAC Judge might not be appointed for Qualification Competitions.
USAC Speed Judge (1.8.5.d.i):
The USAC Speed Judge is appointed by USA Climbing to assist the Head Judging Officials in undertaking all aspects of organizing and judging a Speed competition.
The USAC Judges Committee plays an active role in soliciting candidates for National-level events and advising on the appointment of Head Judging Officials at all events. The primary goal in appointing a HJO team for an event is ensure a high-quality, professional, and fair competition that adheres to USAC rules. A secondary goal is to provide training experiences for those pursuing higher-level certification. The following are guidelines for certification expectations for HJOs and Aspirant USAC Judges at USA Climbing Competitions:
Qualification Events: The Jury President should be a Level 3 (or higher) Judge with relevant-discipline endorsement, though an experienced Level 2 Judge with relevant-discipline endorsement may serve if a qualified higher-level Judge is not available, or if a higher-level judge is a USAC Judge. Regardless, Qualification-Event JPs should have previous HJO experience. USAC Judges should be Level 2 or greater and have the relevant-discipline endorsement. Those interested in serving as a HJO at Qualification Events should contact local USAC Regional Coordinators.
Regional and Divisional Championships: The Jury President should be a Level 4 (or greater) Judge. However, a highly experienced Level 3 Judge with the relevant-discipline endorsement may serve as JP if a higher-level Judge is not available, or if a higher-level Judge is serving as a USAC Judge. Regardless, Regional/Divisional JPs must have previous HJO experience. USAC Judges should have at least Level 3 certification with the relevant-discipline endorsement. Those interested in serving as a HJO at Regional/Divisional Championship Events should contact local USAC Regional Coordinators.
National-level competitions: The Jury President should be a Level 5 Judge. However, highly experienced and qualified Level 4 Judges who are nearing their Level 5 certification may be given opportunities to serve as Jury President at national-level competitions. USAC Judges at national-level competitions are typically Level 4 or 5 Certified Judges. Individuals are typically appointed as Aspirant USAC Judge at one or more national-level competitions before being appointed as a Head Judging Official. At the beginning of the calendar year, the VP of Sport will determine the qualification requirements for those who will be solicited for interest in appointment as USAC Judge and/or Aspirant USAC Judge at national level events for that year, e.g., Level 4 and 5 Judges and Level 3 Judges with recent Regional or Divisional JP experience.
Document Revision History
2023-08-10: Approved by the USAC Judges Committee
2024-04-27: Added links to USA Climbing Membership Portal; added membership step in Level 1 process