Rome is always Rome…..but how do you get there from the airport?

It is said that Roma e’ sempre Roma -- Rome is always Rome.  

Maybe just my cousins say it and now I do too?  I know it’s crowded during the summer (at least every summer before Covid) I know it gets ghastly hot and humid in the summer,  I know it can feel super touristy.  But I also know that as you get lost among the winding alleys and cobblestone streets, all you need to do it peek around the corner and see something that makes you stop and marvel at its beauty or its age--or both, case in point, the Colosseum, the most famous and most recognized Roman ruin, is nearly 2000 years old, or Piazza Navona (my favorite )I could spend a lifetime in Rome and still not discover all its magic--no matter what the season!  Can you tell?  I LOVE ROME!

 The Colosseum and ancient ruins-view from the terrace at the Monument of Victor Emanuel II ('Il Vittoriano') at Piazza Venezia

As much as I love this city and will be happy to share my favorite spots (so far), let’s do some easy demystifying on how to get there when you land so you can start your Roman holiday.

If you are flying into Italy, either directly from another country or through a stop over, you are likely to be flying into Leonardo DaVinci Airport, AKA Fiumicino, (FCO), named for the town in which it is located.  FCO is only about 20 miles west of the city so it’s not only pretty close by, but also provides easy transfer options.

EXITING THE AIRPORT:

Important: If you are arriving internationally directly from the US, you will probably land at Terminal 5, from which you will be shuttled over to the main terminals.  If you had a stop-over in a European city, you will already be one of the main terminals. The following takes you from the main terminal:

When exiting the plane, keep following the EXIT signs, or USCITA.  Next to this sign you’ll also see a sign for baggage.  Actually it’s a sign with a piece of luggage presumably on a luggage belt.  FOLLOW those signs!!   First you will go through Passport control, so this line could be long or short depending on the traffic at the time you land.  Then onward to pick up your luggage at the carousels.  My last 2 flights used carousel 9 but LOOK AT THE SIGNS for your flight!

It’s a pretty long walk, probably over 10 minutes-at a good clip- to get to the luggage carousels then customs, (The amount of time in Customs depends on volume) then another 5 minutes or so to either the exit to go outside or to the train station, depending on your choice of transfer:

1 - HIRE A CAR SERVICE IN ADVANCE:

Trust me, It’s not a huge splurge, but a welcome amenity at the end of a long trip. Whenever I plan my clients’ trips to Italy, I like to provide a Meet & Greet, english-speaking driver at the airport.  This is when a driver meets the travelers right at the exit after customs, name printed on a sign, or an IPAD.  The travelers are promptly relieved of their heavy luggage and escorted to a private car to take them directly to their hotel.  No worrying, no looking for where to go, or asking anyone for directions, nothing. After probably 10 or more hours between airport and flight, nothing is easier or more welcome.  If you’re lucky, the driver will be able to share a couple of interesting facts or at least answer some questions you might have, depending on their level of English.  You will probably find the driver will have at least a basic knowledge, but, if not, smiles and hand gestures will go a long way. This is an affordable choice due to the proximity of the airport to the center of the city, less than $100 even with tip ( optional and depending on how helpful your driver was).

2 - TAKE THE TRAIN :

Feel like being adventurous?  You’ll find that the train into Termini Station (Stazione Termini) is super-easy as well, and really well arranged.   The Leonardo Express offers a non-stop train, solely for this airport transfer.  The trains are clean, relatively spacious, and, unlike the normal trains, there is room designated for luggage as well.  The cost is 14 euro per person (about $17), tickets can be purchased in advance or at the kiosks, or even a ticket counter, at the very convenient station at the airport.  

Getting to the trains:

The train station is in Terminal 3, which is arrivals, so just look for signs in both english and italian and a picture of a train. You won’t be going outside, the station is down a set of escalators and down the hall….it will feel like a hike, but exiting this large airport will take about 20 minutes total, not counting time waiting for passport control and waiting for your luggage/customs. And the restroom stops.  And an espresso if traveling with my husband...

The Train Station-  La Ferrovia:

The station here is very small, 3 tracks.  Usually 2 of those tracks are for the Leonardo Express that takes about 32 minutes to get to Termini station, and runs every 15 or 30 minutes depending on the time of day.  Note:  they are running approximately hourly during Covid due to decreased travel. From Fiumicino Airport it will run from 06.23 am until 11.23 pm

 Roma Termini the service will run from 05.35 am until 10.35 pm.

Make sure you get on the LEONARDO EXPRESS, which always makes me think of the Hogwarts Express in Harry Potter.

There is another train that is more local, the F1, 8 euros per person, but does not go to Termini station.  It goes to other neighborhoods still in the city of Rome, is local so takes longer, and won’t work if you are staying within the Aurelian Walls, which is the main part of the city where the historic center is located.  If you are staying outside the walls, such as Trastevere, you can ask at the counter for some help (I advise my clients who are interested in train to city) as it may be a good option for you.  The local train is not as well set up for luggage but still will work of course. It is not, however, a good option to save money instead of taking the Leonardo Express since you will then be paying more money for a taxi to get to your location in the city.

Back to the Leonardo Express:

Go to the RED kiosk and get your ticket, one way to Roma Termini Station. There are usually several kiosks in a row, bright red, can’t miss them. They are easy to use, offer service in several languages.

Self service ticket kiosks.  There are also customer service windows if you prefer.

Then off to your track!   IT IS CRITICAL--CRITICAL--that you take that ticket and “validate it” in the green validation machines that are placed at the beginning of the track. Ask one of the station workers if you can’t find it or are unsure of how it works. When you are onboard, a conductor will come around to ask for your ticket.  If it is NOT validated, you run the risk of very hefty fines, over 50 euros. Don’t be tempted to EVER not validate your ticket, not on trains, not on buses.  They are regularly checked!

Note:   The only time you do not validate is if you have purchased tickets online, in which case you will show either the printed ticket or the ticket on the Trenitalia app.  I prefer to purchase in advance if I know my full itinerary for inter-city travel but I rarely buy the Leonardo Express in advance since it’s so easy and I don’t have to worry in case of flight delays.

All aboard!  Place your luggage in the racks and take a seat, it’s a nice leisurely trip to Termini station, almost there!!

At Termini Station-Stazione Termini:  you will be getting off at track 22 or 23, just follow the signs to the exit--USCITA.  At this point, unless your hotel is within walking distance, which it probably isn’t, then you will need a taxi.  

Make sure you go to the line where you see a taxi stand, someone will be managing the process, you get on a line and the taxis do as well.  You may be approached by a seemingly helpful taxi driver who wants to help you avoid the line. This is not an official Commune di Roma driver and you run the risk of being ripped off. There is a set cost for most trips, they are regulated, so be sure to use the taxi stand, ask the fare in advance to your hotel.  Off you go! Check in, or drop off your luggage since you may be getting in earlier than check-in---and go get an espresso!  More to come on that in another entry.

Welcome to Rome as you step outside the main doors of Termini Station. Taxi stand to your left.

3 - TAKE A TAXI FROM THE AIRPORT TO ROME:

 Make sure you go to the line where you see a taxi stand, someone will be managing the process, you get on a line and the taxis do as well.  You may be approached by a seemingly helpful taxi driver who wants to help you avoid the line. This is not an official Commune di Roma driver and you run the risk of being ripped off. There is a set cost for most trips, they are regulated, so be sure to use the taxi stand, ask the fare in advance to your hotel.  Off you go! Check in, or drop off your luggage since you may be getting in earlier than check-in---and go get an espresso!  More to come on that in another entry!  

Coffee hints:

     Did someone say espresso?

• it’s the only coffee in Italy, so just ask for “un caffe’ “and you will get an espresso.
• No cappuccino after noon!  It’s a breakfast drink!
• “Latte” means milk.  Just “milk”. Don’t ask for that! You could ask for a “macchiato” or “caffe’ con latte” or “cappuccino” depending on how much milk you want.

Buone Vacanze!

MB

Morning coffee overlooking Piazza Navona                           Mid-morning cappuccino with a little ice cream

                                                                                                                         treat on a hot day! Jackpot!