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MN Wild Cross Stitch
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* Katze’s MN Wild Hockey Cross Stitch Project *

Here you will find all necessary links, info, and instructions to complete your own Minnesota Wild cross stitch project.

If you are trying out cross stitching for the first time, check out these links to get started. If you are an experienced cross stitcher, proceed to the project notes below.

5 Things You Need to Start Cross Stitch

How to Read a Cross Stitch Chart

How to: Basic Cross Stitch {I use the Danish method.}

How to do a Loop Start for Cross Stitch

Guide to Fractional Stitches for Cross Stitch {I use ¾ stitches for shoulder #2s}

How to Backstitch and Long Stitch

Closeup Look at Backstitching

The Minnesota Wild Logo

Logo Pattern by Wool Ball - The pattern costs $4.85. This is not my pattern.

Notes:

*I used the colors recommended in the pattern and stitched on 14 count aida.

*The logo calls for 2 strands, while the jerseys are 3 strands. In retrospect I wish I had done the logo with 3 as well to make it more solid looking.

The Jerseys

I purchased the Kaprizov Jersey Pattern from the Etsy shop FanStitches. She has since changed the jersey to have a curved/worn bottom edge. I ordered several custom jersey patterns from her, but the patterns all had significant errors in them and I had to rechart them before stitching, so I made the rest of them myself.

Notes:

*I used 14 count aida, and all regular stitches use 3 strands of floss.

*The pattern calls for DMC 842 for the tan color on the home jerseys. I opted to use DMC 739 instead. I liked the brighter color better and it matches the border of the logo.

*The reds are different as well. The logo uses DMC 321 while the jerseys use DMC 666. Long story short, I used vintage DMC 666, but I would recommend you use DMC 321.

Longer story about DMC 666: When I started this project I was using DMC floss that was gifted to me by an aunt who had purchased it back in the 90’s. What I didn’t know, until I ran out of the 666 she gifted me, is that the current 666 as sold in stores has changed due to color dying laws in Europe. It doesn’t have the true red hue it did back then, and now looks more like bright orange-red. It looked very off when I tried to stitch jersey numbers with it. I discovered the difference and ended up tracking down vintage skeins of 666 on eBay, so that my color would remain cohesive. Save yourself the headache and just use DMC 321, like the red in the logo.

*I opted for 3 strands when backstitching around the back jersey numbers to make them pop a little more, but stuck to 2 strands for the backstitch around the shoulder numbers, jersey edge border, and framing border.

*I cut my aida down to size, 66 stitches wide by 50 stitches tall, and stitched them in hand. If you prefer to use a hoop you could leave your aida uncut. I plan to put my jerseys in individual 3.5”x5” frames, but you could plot them out on one big piece of aida.

Getting started you’ll need: 

My process, step by step:

  1. Start by stitching the entire base color, home green or away white. All regular stitches are done with 3 strands of floss.
  1. Stitch from the top left corner of the left sleeve, working to the right.
  2. The first stitch is 6 spaces from the top, side, and diagonally from the corner.
  3. You should have an empty border of 5 spaces from the sides of the sleeves, top and bottom of the jersey.
  1. Here I will insert a helpful diagram to show the flow of stitching the base color.
  1. #1 - the left sleeve, 11 rows of 5 stitches
  2. #2 - the shoulder, leaving spaces for the number, and working down the left side.
  3. #3 - below the back numbers; this area is 28 stitches wide. On either jersey there are 12 rows of color beneath the back numbers. On home green this means 11 rows of green and 1 row of tan at the bottom. On away white the rows are 5 white, 1 green, 1 white, 3 green, 2 white.
  4. #4 - the middle, filling in between the numbers
  5. #5 - the right shoulder, leaving spaces for the number, and working down the right side.
  6. #6 - the right sleeve, 11 rows of 5 stitches

3. Next fill in the sleeve and bottom stripes, collar, shoulder and back numbers.

  1. All numbers are straightforward except for making a 2 on the shoulders. This required some trial and error, using a combination of ¾ stitches and tiny ½ stitches to get the rounded look. I’ll include a closeup picture. {I opted to leave the jagged look on shoulder numbers 4 and 7, but you could add ¾ stitches to those as well.}

        4. Add the backstitch borders to the numbers.

  1. On home green jerseys the original pattern does not call for backstitching around the shoulder numbers and I have not done it on mine. In my opinion, our team’s green jerseys don’t show a noticeable border on the tan shoulder numbers. But you could certainly add tan backstitching if you wish.
  2. On white away jerseys, the red shoulder numbers do have a backstitch border in green.
  3. When backstitching around the large back numbers, I opted to use 3 strands to really make the border pop. Backstitches around the shoulder numbers are done with 2 strands.

        5. Add a 2 strand backstitch border in green to the entire jersey’s edge.

  1. I use the loop start method to start all of the 2 strand backstitching, as well as the long stitching for the players’ names.

        6. Add a 2 strand backstitch framing border in green around the jersey.

  1. This border will leave 2 spaces on the outside, and three spaces inside between the border and the jersey.
  2. This is entirely optional. I like the look as it reminds me of matting when framing a real jersey.
  3. Again, I used the loop start method to begin this 2 strand backstitch border. I will include a picture to show how I hid the ends of the thread.

        

7. Add the player’s name using long stitching.

  1. This can take some practice. I was very finicky with my thread, making sure there were no twists and it laid just right. I often stitched, picked, and restitched each letter 2 or 3 times until I was satisfied. I will include pictures.
  2. The letters of the names are 4 spaces tall and 2 spaces wide.
  3. The spacing of the name is 2 rows below the shoulder numbers, and 3 rows above the back numbers.

 

*Shoulder #2’s require ¾ stitches. I added tiny ½ stitches to fill in any gaps in the diagonal.

*To hide the ends of the backstitched framing border, pull the ends through the horizontal spaces on the back of the aida, being careful not to puncture through the front of the aida. Pull the ends into the jersey, then under a row of at least 5 stitches to create a typical anchor.

*Examples of long stitching names on home green and away white.

*When stitching letters with a center crossbar {B, E, F, H, P, R,}, make sure the crossbar stitch goes under the stem of the letter.

Below are all available patterns

I’ve made patterns in home green and away white for all current players.

Forwards - pages 7-32

Defensemen - pages 33-46

Goalies - pages 47-50

Past Players - pages 51-

I will be working to add patterns of AHL players who are frequent call-ups to the team, as well as more former players. I may, at some point, attempt to create other jersey styles, such as the 78’s North Star colors and this year’s Anniversary Inaugural-inspired jersey.