Item

Notes

Relevant Link/Image

2H Engine

You’ll need a 2H engine, it can either be “late” or “early” it doesn’t matter. The late engine is a parent bore block, the early engine has cylinder liners.

Avoid buying a 2H that was previously fitted with an Automatic Transmission - the injection pump will have additional complexity to deal with.

Identifying late/early 2H:

Link to Photos

Engine Mounts

The actual engine mounts attached to your chassis will be in the correct location but you will need:

• HJ47 or early HJ60 Engine Mount “brackets”
• Engine mount rubber blocks for the engine to sit on
  

If you intend to fit a power steering pump at some point, definitely seek out the “early 60” mounts as they’ll have provision for pump mounting on the right hand side.

Photos of the relevant engine mount brackets etc.

Link to photos

Reuse of H Bell Housing?

The 2H will in fact bolt up to the existing H Bell Housing but getting a 2H starter motor to fit takes a little effort.

There are some images at this link that show the modification required to the 2H Oil Cooler Cover that must be done to get the 2H starter to fit. The Oil Cooler cover needs work with a grinder and some welding. And a new hole needs to be drilled in the bell housing for the 2H Starter motor to fit.

Your existing H Clutch will bolt to the 2H flywheel.

Use of the H Bellhousing with a 2H Engine and a 2H Starter.

Relevant photos

Replacing the H Bellhousing

If you choose not to use the H Bell Housing (best decision) you will need an HJ47 or early HJ60 2H manual bell housing. The “late” bell housing will NOT work as it “clocks” the transmission a little

If you do use the HJ47/HJ60 Bell Housing you will need to install a transmission cross member (see below)

Photos of the two styles of bell housings (you need “HJ47/Early HJ60”) Link to photos

Transmission Crossmember

An HJ47 Transmission Cross Member will work very well.

The holes to bolt the transmission cross member side brackets to the chassis will not be present. There needs to be four per side to bolt the 90 degree brackets that support the actual crossmember. Get the engine in place with the back of the transmission supported and work out the correct position for the holes. It will not be easy.

Also note that the actual rubber mount that supports the transmission needs to be bolted to the bottom of the transmission - it is likely that the transmission from your HJ45 will not have the necessary threaded holes in the bottom of it for this - you may need to find an H41 transmission from an HJ47 or later FJ45 etc.  Every H55F will have the necessary threaded holes.

HJ47 Transmission Cross Member

Link to Hi Res Image

Tail Shafts

The tail shaft lengths will change. The rear shaft will be shorter and the front shaft will be longer.

HJ47 Tailshafts will work perfectly if you use a 4 speed transmission or you can get your existing shafts modified (a 1” spacer will work on the front to make your existing shaft work).

H55F (5 speed) notes

If you do choose to use a 5 speed transmission you’ll have to fit a replacement handbrake on the back wheels as the transfer case handbrake will no longer fit.

If you’re lucky your HJ45 rear diff housing will have the “4 bolt diff” and you’ll be able to graft  60 series handbrake backing plates onto your diff (reportedly a 79 series handbrake cable works nicely with this). You should consider rebuilding the backing plates prior to fitting them - new wheel cylinders, springs, shoes etc.

If you do get a new transmission and it’s from a 60 make sure the transfer is not vacuum switched - it can be made to work but for such a crucial function a lever rather than a switch is preferable.

The H55F with the 60 series Top Plate will require some sheet metal work on your transmission tunnel cover as the stick position is different.

I do feel that the 5 speed upgrade using the H55F is overrated and not worth the effort, it significantly complicates fitting a 2H to your HJ45 but it’s a popular upgrade for whatever reason

• I have a 4 speed HJ47 which I travel in and the 4 speed is just fine.
• My daily driver is an HJ60 with the 5 speed - I rarely use the fifth gear - even at 100kph I prefer to be in 4th in it, even a slight incline in 5th speed doesn’t feel right.
• It really doesn’t appear to save that much fuel

Others feel the upgrade is worth the effort.

6 Bolt diff housing (this will NOT work with HJ60 Brake backing plates)

60 Series brake backing plate - note the 4 bolt holes

Electrical - EDIC

The Fuel Control Relay driving your EDIC (Electronic Diesel Injection Controller) fitted to your HJ45 will not work with the EDIC motor for the 2H.

A simple “stop cable” will work just fine to shut the engine down

I understand it may be possible to make your HJ45 Fuel Control Relay work with the 2H EDIC Motor - if I can find that wiring conversion I’ll add it to this document when I have it.

Stop cable images:  Link

Electrical - Glow Plugs

Depending on where the 2H came from its glow setup may be any of a few different arrangements.

The best approach is to delete everything but the actual glow rail that runs directly along the 6 plugs, install fresh 10.5V plugs and use a push button on your dash to activate your existing glow solenoid to drive the new plugs directly.  A 6-7 second glow will have your 2H starting nicely, even in very cold weather.

Radiator

The HJ45 radiator will be fine, but you may need to slightly oval out the mounting holes to bring it slightly forward.

You will also need to rotate the thermostat housing on the 2H so that it points to the left hand side of the engine to match your HJ45 radiator’s inlet port position. Undo the 3 bolts of the thermostat cover, rotate to point in the opposite direction and refit with new gasket (and preferably a new genuine thermostat)

Radiator fan

You’ll need an HJ47 Radiator Fan. Part number: 16361-68030

Worthwhile maintenance on your 2H prior to fitting it into your HJ45

• Injection Pump Leather diaphragm - so much easier to replace whilst the engine is out
• Clutch - may as well fit a fresh one - get the flywheel surfaced as well
• Rear Main seal - you’ll never get to it so easily again. Use a genuine seal
• Use a fresh throwout bearing when refitting the transmission
• Use a fresh spigot bearing in the end of the crank
• Cooling system - rebuild it completely
• With the water pump off you can get a glimpse into the oil cooler cover, a borescope can help determine if its imminently likely to fail - its so much easier to change this cover when the engine is out of the vehicle.

Leather Diaphragm: Link to guide

Cooling system rebuild: Link to guide

Exhaust

Do what you can -  your 2H may come with the original exhaust manifold, it may come bare, or it may come with extractors that work, or don’t. Thankfully the “hot” side of the engine is still the left hand side so it should be a fairly straight forward job to make some kind of exhaust work.

Fuel Plumbing

Nothing to change here - your current soft line to your injection pump from your chassis hard line will work just fine. It wouldn’t hurt to replace the length of soft line with a new fresh length