Tutorial: Converting a Storage Tub into a Snake Enclosure

When you decide you want a pet snake, one of the first things you need to figure out is what type of enclosure you want to use and how much money you want to spend. If you have a smaller snake that needs high humidity (such as ball pythons), and you want to keep your expenses low, a plastic storage tub can be a practical choice. Tubs can be a convenient "grow out" enclosure for young snakes before giving them something more permanent. They are also useful as quarantine enclosures for new snakes; keeping everything simple during your quarantine period will make it easier to quickly notice and address problems, such as mites or internal parasites.

When I took in another rescue ball python on short notice, I had to set up a new tub. In this tutorial, I'll show you how I converted a storage tub into a basic quarantine enclosure. Included are links to the products I used for this specific set-up, as well as other products I recommend, and the approximate prices you can expect to pay for these items in the US.

Supplies and Tools

Tub: The tub I'm using for this project is a Sterilite 106 quart latching storage box ($15). This particular tub has good dimensions for a snake up to 3' to 4' long, and it offers some height for climbing. A similar tub that is easy to find in most stores is the Hefty Hi-Rise 113 quart storage bin ($20). Whatever brand or size you choose, try to find one with a flat bottom (both inside and outside) if you are using under tank heating. If you need something a little bigger, something like the IRIS Holiday Tree storage tote ($33) is a good size for snakes up to 5' to 6' long, and this kind of tub can also support a radiant heat panel for a different heating option.

Security: Since most storage tubs will have lids easily opened by a snake, even if the lid has latches, you'll have to add extra security to prevent escapes. A simple pair of luggage straps ($6) can firmly hold the lid down with minimal hassle. Velcro bundle straps ($5 for 12') are also a sturdy and easy option, you can buy rolls of it and cut it to whatever length you need.

Heating: An under tank heater (UTH) is the easiest way to go with tubs. Ultratherm heat pads ($17-$33 depending on size) are high quality and come in a variety of sizes. Heat tape ($2-$5 per foot, plus $7 for wiring supplies) is a similar option, but it's much more customizable. Because the room where my tub will be kept is averaging 68-75 F, and the ball python living in it will need a 75-80 F cool side and 90 F warm side, I need to use two UTHs. Whenever two UTHs are used, the warm side UTH should cover about 1/3 of the floor, and the cool side UTH should cover 1/2 - 2/3 of the floor.

If your tub is large and has a lid sturdy enough to support a radiant heat panel (RHP), Pro Products has the highest quality RHPs on the market. Reptile Basics is another popular option. If you buy the appropriate wattage for your tub size and typical room temperature range, a single RHP is the only heat source you need.

Temperature Control: For this particular setup, I'm regulating my UTHs with Hydrofarm thermostats ($30), a very simple on/off style thermostat; I have a few of these in my backup supply collection, so they were handy for this last-minute project. Inkbird thermostats ($30) are another on/off style thermostat but with a few more features at a good price, and these are what I would recommend to anyone trying to keep costs low. With that said the thermostats I recommend most are Herpstats from Spyder Robotics ($80-$440 depending on model and number of outputs) - with a variety of device control options and safety features, these are an excellent investment.

Temperature & Humidity Monitoring: I use the AcuRite 00891A3 indoor/outdoor digital thermometer/hygrometer ($13) in all my enclosures. This is great for monitoring the warm side floor temperature and the ambient temperature, plus the humidity, all at the same time with one simple device. When using two UTHs, as I will be doing here, I suggest a simpler probe thermometer such as the AcuRite 00888A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer ($12) to monitor the second UTH. I also use an Etekcity infrared thermometer ($16) to spot-check surface temperatures, which is especially important when setting up thermostats for UTHs. Whatever thermometers and hygrometers you choose, keep them digital - analog gauges are notorious for being inaccurate, and they're not great at measuring surface temperatures.

Hides & Water Dish: For most terrestrial or semi-arboreal snake species, you'll need at least two hides, and every snake needs a water dish. For my ball python's tub, I'm using two Reptile Basics hide boxes ($2.50 - $20, depending on size) and a Pyrex dish for water. These simple and easy-to-clean options are great for quarantine.

Substrate: This can vary a lot depending on the species you're keeping. Simple substrates like paper towels or puppy pads are ideal for quarantine, especially if you're concerned about the possibility of mites, and they're a good utilitarian substrate in general. If you're using moisture-friendly substrates like cypress mulch or coconut husk/fiber, keep in mind that even mildly damp substrate can quickly lead to high amounts of condensation and overall swampy conditions in a tub.

Tools:

Marker and ruler to map out air holes, though this is not important if you don't care how neat it looks.
Power drill with bits in different sizes (start small to avoid cracking the plastic), or a soldering iron that you wouldn't mind potentially ruining. If you use a power drill, grab a lighter or sandpaper to smooth out the air hole edges.
A couple of bolts, washers, and nuts, to mount the thermo/hygro to the tub wall.
Electrical tape is best for securing the thermostat probe.
Duct tape or thin double-sided tape can be used for securing the UTH.
Hot glue gun for securing thermometer probes and wires. (Remember, anything that will be adhered to the inside of the tub should NOT be taped down, as sticky adhesives are extremely dangerous to the snake.) Hot glue is the quickest and easiest option, but aquarium grade silicone can also be used if you have a few days to let it cure.
Extras: felt furniture pads can be helpful to raise the tub if space is needed for power cords. A few layers of cardboard or insulating foam boards are good for leveling out the floor of the tub if it bows and creates some uneven heating with the UTH.

Creating Ventilation

Since I'll be needing to insulate this tub to retain heat better in my cool room temperatures during the winter, I'm going to keep all the air holes on the "front" wall of the tub. The number of holes needed is largely dictated by the humidity requirements of the snake species, and the average humidity range of your home. For a royal python living in my New England home (which is often dry due to heating, air conditioning, or seasonal weather), I need to keep air flow minimal so I can easily maintain humidity levels around 70%-80%. If you want to keep things looking tidy, use a ruler and marker to plan out your air holes.

I marked out three rows of 1/4" holes spaced 3" apart. With my power drill, I used an 1/8" bit to get the holes started, followed by the 1/4" bit to get the final size I wanted. If you're using a drill, take your time! Trying to rush through this process will likely lead to cracked plastic. If you're using a soldering iron, this is not a concern.

After drilling all the holes, I used a lighter to melt the rough edges and smooth out the inside of the tub wall. I recommend doing anything involving a soldering iron or lighter outdoors, to avoid stinking up your home with fumes from melting plastic.

Air holes marked out and drilled.

If you get your tub all set up and later find your humidity is too high, simply add more air holes. If your humidity ends up being too low, simply go back and fill in some of the air holes (hot glue is great for this). Cover up just a few holes to start, close the tub back up and let it sit (with a full water dish, heat sources running, etc) for about half an hour. Re-check the humidity, and fill in a few more holes if needed. Repeat until you achieve the necessary humidity level.

Installing a UTH and Thermostat

Since ambient heat sources such as lamps or radiant heat panels aren't practical for many tubs, this tutorial is focused on under tank heat (UTH). Because of my cooler room temperatures in the winter, I'll be using two UTHs - one for the warm side and one for the cool side. Measure the flat surface where you'll be able to keep the UTH flush against the tub bottom. The warm side UTH should cover roughly one-third to one-half of the floor space. If you're using a second UTH for the cool side, as I'm doing here, it should cover most/all of the remaining floor space. Based on my tub's measurements, I chose an 11"x11" Ultratherm heat pad for the warm side and an 11"x17" for the cool side.

Turn the tub upside-down and place each UTH where you want it. Make sure the UTH is as flat against the tub floor as possible, to ensure even heating. Using double-sided tape or a sturdy single-sided tape, secure the UTH to the bottom of the tub. I used black duct tape along all four sides of the UTH, leaving the area around the cord clear.

Keep the tub turned upside-down, and grab your thermostat(s). Place the thermostat probe somewhere in the middle of the UTH it will be regulating. Use electrical tape to adhere the thermostat probe flush against the UTH.

Installing Thermometers/Hygrometers

When using a thermometer with a probe, the first thing you should do is check the probe for adhesives. Often, as is the case with both of the AcuRite models I'm using for this project, the probe will have a bit of mounting tape on it, which can be hazardous for your snake. Any adhesives that remain tacky like any kind of tape, sticky-backed velcro, etc., can become stuck to the snake and cause damage ranging from a few missing scales to life-threatening flesh wounds. Thankfully, this tape is usually very easy to peel off of the probe. You may see some of the thermometer's wiring when you remove the tape, which is fine, as it should still be safely encased. If you're using a different thermometer, this step may not be necessary.

Mounting the thermometers/hygrometers on the tub wall can help prevent your snake from damaging them (ie, defecating/urinating on them), as well as allowing for easier viewing without necessarily opening the tub and disturbing your snake. Many thermometers/hygrometers will have a slot on the back of the main unit where it can be hung on a bolt. For this project, I'm mounting both of my AcuRites high in the center of the tub's back wall.

Choose a bolt with a head small enough to fit in the slot on the thermometer/hygrometer, but big enough that it won't be dislodged easily. For added security, you can use a bit of hot glue to hold the bolt firmly in the slot. Drill or solder a hole in the tub wall where you want to mount the thermometer/hygrometer, just big enough to accommodate the bolt, then insert the bolt with the head inside the tub. Hang up your thermometer/hygrometer, then secure the bolt with a nut (I use wingnuts for easy adjustment by hand, but any type of nut will do).

The most important step is securing the thermometer probes to the tub floor. If the probes are left free-floating in the tub, they will be easily moved around by your snake, which will prevent them from measuring the floor temperatures you need them to measure. You could use aquarium grade silicone for this, but only if you have several days to let the tub air out while the silicone cures. Hot glue, which is what I used here, is a much faster and easier option. You'll want to make sure you have a high temperature glue gun, not a little crafting glue gun, otherwise you might find your glue (and your probe) becoming dislodged.

I like to use several small globs of hot glue along the cord, rather than one big line, as this will provide some backup just in case something does get dislodged. I start with the probe itself, inserting the ring at the tip of the probe (if present, used for hanging the probe) into a hefty dollop of glue, being careful to avoid covering the inner workings of the probe with the glue. Then I move on to the cord, beginning at the base of the probe and continuing every inch or two until the cord reaches the wall of the tub. If you want to keep things extra tidy, you can keep going all the way to the unit / coil of excess cord.

Note: don't fret over the temperature readings until the hot glue fully cools and your UTHs are running. In the photo below, the glue was just about cool but my UTHs had not been plugged in yet, so the probe readings were approximately the same as the ambient temperature.

Finishing Touches

Now that your tub has ventilation and your equipment is installed, it's time to add your substrate, hides, water dish, and any other decor you'll be using. My tub is staying pretty simple in the beginning; two hides from Reptile Basics, a Pyrex dish for water, a shower curtain tension rod for a little climbing, and cypress mulch substrate (which has been mostly dried out to prevent swampy conditions in the tub). More decor can be added over time, and it's good to keep things simple during a quarantine period. Be sure to test run your tub for at least a day or two so you know everything is on point before adding a snake to the equation. Run your heat sources according to your snake's requirements, test the security of the lid (remember, if you can lift it, your snake can lift it!), and see where your humidity settles and adjust the number of air holes as needed. When everything is running smoothly, your snake's new home is ready!