Spanish Wine Glossary

Spain is a major wine producer that deserves to be better known and understood. This document outlines some of the key names, terms and areas that anyone interested in Spanish wine is likely to come across. It’s deliberately a little opinionated and there are some areas that I know better than others. I aim to keep this up to date and so all comments, corrections, disagreements and suggestions will be most welcome. Please feel free to share, copy and use as you wish, ideally downloading the latest version first via https://twitter.com/ADHalliwell/status/1426828808460582919?s=20

Andrew Halliwell

https://www.linkedin.com/in/ahalliwell/

ABRA - “Asociación de Bodegas de Rioja Alavesa” is a voluntary grouping of wineries from the Basque part of the Rioja wine region. They’ve been in the news recently as they have been trying to go ahead with their own DO, basically because all the power in the Rioja DOCa lies with big firms and so they don’t really get a say in the direction the Rioja DOCa is taking e.g. with things like zonfication and maximum yields etc. So in a way this would be a little bit like Corpinnat forming from Cava. However Rioja does have a good name and the proposed new DO “Arabako Mahastiak/Viñedos de Álava” is unproven and a bit of a mouthful. A number of former ABRA members left the grouping when this plan went ahead and now the Basque government has shelved backing the plan, for now at least.

Albariño - White grape grown in NW Iberia, best known as the star grape of the Rías Baixas region in Galicia. Usually gives apricotty peachy citrussy wines made in a bright, zippy style. Can be great, or can be a touch thin and overpriced. Some people seem to be trying to make it in a more minerally style these days and there is also an increasing number of long lees-aged options available. It’s definitely got the acidity to age but I’m not always convinced that the loss of zip and fruit is adequately compensated for by any gain in interest. Other people see it differently and I think aged Albariño has become one of those trendy styles you have to at least say that you like.

Albillo - There are various white grapes known as Albillo. Albillo Mayor seems to be a very good grape in north central Spain and has recently been authorised as a stand alone variety in Ribera del Duero.

Albillo Real is at home in central Spain. Seems decent enough but I’ve had it in a range of styles and I’m not quite sure what direction it’s going in at the moment or what its star qualities are.

Alicante - This province in sunny SE Spain has two main areas for winegrowing. Inland to the north and west things turn continental quickly and large tracts of quality old-vine Monastrell bush vines spring up, with similar conditions to those found in Yecla and Jumilla. Think dense reds, sometimes blended with French grapes such as Syrah and Petit Verdot. The other side of Alicante is the Marina area, near the coast to the east. There’s a gentler climate here and the highly aromatic Moscatel is king / queen. Big yields and thirsty tourists mean that a lot of the production is bulk grapey whites but happily there are also a few small scale producers, such as Casa Agrícola and Joan de la Casa doing very interesting things with natural wines and amphorae etc.

Almansa - You might think that 7,100ha would put this region on the map, yet you rarely hear about Almansa within Spain, perhaps because around 80% of production is exported. Almansa is another highish altitude, continental region in SE Spain, seemingly like a northerly extension of Yecla and Alicante. Though whilst there is still Monastrell here, the grape under the spotlight is Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet). Being a teinturier grape this tends to produce deep-coloured, spicy wines, possibly the best coming from the commercially savvy Bodegas Atalaya, though there are other decent options such as the large volume Bodegas Piqueras. Given the low profile of the region and continental climate It wouldn’t surprise me if Almansa were one of the next to be “rediscovered” over the next few years.

Almudena Albarca MW - Spanish Master of Wine and rising star who has been the technical director at important producer Viña Mayor since 2015.

Álvaro Palacios - One of Spain’s most famous winemakers. Probably best known for Priorat where his wines helped to create the fame the region now enjoys, his presence in Bierzo has also given that region a considerable nudge. Álvaro also works at the family’s estate in Rioja Oriental, where he’s got behind traditionally grown Grenache around the Monte Yerga area, plus there’s a sophisticated Viura-based white called Plácet. Whilst the top wines from these estates are expensive, they are generally within ballpark for what you would pay for an equivalent from France or Italy and at each location more-entry level wines with reasonable pricing are also produced.

Amaya Cervera - Incredibly hard-working and knowledgeable Spanish wine journalist, who has teamed up with Yolanda Arri to create spanishwinelover.com - a vast and growing resource, full of meticulously researched information in both English and Spanish. The team is also actively engaged on Twitter and Instagram and for anybody interested in what’s really going on in Spanish wine I can think of no better resource.

Amontillado - A type of traditional Andalucían wine that starts off being made like a Fino, being aged under flor. After a few years the wine is then usually fortified and is then further aged with no flor, allowing it to gently oxidise and turn brown. These wines have a Fino-ish bite combined with a complex nutty taste, sometimes with slight burnt notes that are can be a bit hardcore. Rarely love at first sip but once you get into it, decent Amontillado is usually amazing - super complex and layered - so well worth a bit of perseverance.

Arribes - Remote DO in western Spain, where the Duero starts to cut a deep canyon to form Portugal’s Douro valley. There’s a mixture of local and traveller grapes here, with reds Juan García and Bruñal perhaps the most interesting, which can lead to spicy, perfumed wines in the right hands. Still work in progress.

Barrica - Barrel. You sometimes find this term on wine labels, where it means that the wine that has seen a bit of time in wood and as such this term has a similar meaning to “roble”.

Bierzo - County (El Bierzo) and wine region in NW Spain that has steadily improved over the last two decades and is now one of the best in the country. DO Bierzo has read the tea leaves correctly and has forged ahead, facilitating the creation of village level and single vineyard wines, to highlight the star sites and hence create a halo for the whole denomination. The trump card here is old vine Mencía. There are wines for every level but even the most basic usually offer plenty of fruit and are usually very good value. In fact sometimes the more basic wines are the way to go, as the top wines can be too chewy and oaky for their own good. Saying that, over-ripeness and oak seem to be in retreat at the moment, although this is a trend which I hope doesn’t go too far. I’ve tried a few lower alcohol Bierzo reds recently that to me seemed too thin and under-extracted, as if the producer were trying to fit a round peg into a square hole.

Bobal - There’s a lot of (red grape) Bobal grown in eastern Spain, yet despite at least a decade of pushing, it rarely seems to have captured the imagination. But 60,000 hectares isn’t just going to go away and with more sensitive winegrowing Bobal finally seems to be coming into its own. Standard-bearers have considerably helped with this progression with e.g. Mustiguillo, Ponce and relative newcomers Gratias each making reds in different styles, each excellent in their own way, giving some idea of the grape’s potential. So, good Bobal definitely exists but will this translate into good every day Bobal or are the vagaries of the grape and economics enough to keep Bobal in the 2nd division, despite it being Spain’s second most planted red?

Bodega - A word meaning cellar. Could be a cool room well inside or underneath a house. Could be a wine bar, ideally a bit traditional. Is also the Spanish word for winery.

Bullas - Potentially interesting small DO in a pretty unvisited part of Murcia in SE Spain. Once again for this region the trump card is Monastrell, with altitude partially offsetting the warm summers and relentless sunshine. Again it will be producers with an eye to modern tastes who will help raise the profile and set the pace here and it’s noteworthy that a number of high-profile winemakers and consultants such as Jesús Madrazo and Norrel Robertson MW are operating in the area. There are some cool small projects too, not least newcomer Julia Casado and non-DO natural wine producer Viña Enebro.

Cabernet Sauvignon - Not really an important grape in Spain, despite forming part of the blend at Vega Sicilia since the 19th century and the early modern-era promise shown when Torres’ 1970 Mas La Plana won the 1979 Gault-Millau “wine olympics”. It does however crop up all over the country.

Some of the best examples can be found in Costers del Segre but this underrated DO doesn’t make much noise, so these wines can be hard to find. Cabernet Sauvignon is possibly at its most user-friendly in Somontano, where a number of bodegas turn out professional blackcurranty numbers, either on its own or in a blend. Next door Navarra can also do a reasonable job though the climate may be a little more marginal and the wine can be a bit green and so it is usually blended. There’s a little bit in Castilla y León, sneaking its way into some solid Ribera wines, though these aren’t obviously better for it. A different area that had some success with Cabernet Sauvignon is at various boutique wineries south of Madrid, some of which with their own DO. Being founded in the 80s / 90s this probably made sense at the time and the results can be good but are rarely cheap and so are poor value when compared to Chile for example.

Calatayud - This rather desolate area south west of Zaragoza is home to some superlative old Grenache vines which often make wine in a dense, ripe style, though like everywhere times are changing and this power is being reeled in a bit.

Campo de Borja - Another mainly one trick pony, this DO specialises in Grenache and does a great job with a number of solid wines at very reasonable prices enjoying well-deserved commercial success. To my mind these wines are a touch more balanced and less blockbuster-style than Calatayud, though with 5000 hectares under vine such generalisations will only get us so far.

Canarias (Canaries) - There’s at least five centuries of wine history in the Canaries. Things finally seem to be turning back in the islands’ favour after a long decline, due mainly to the consistent work of some Lanzarote-based producers and the spectacular success of new wines from Tenerife. The fact that “mineral”, “volcanic” and “Atlantic” wines are currently in has no doubt helped their rise, or could it just be the other way round? In the coming years it will be interesting to see if some of the other islands capture the public eye - for example Suertes de Marqués’ Jonatan García Lima is now consulting on Gran Canaria.

Cangas - Very small DO in Asturias in northern Spain. Has captured the imagination a bit due to its remote mountain location and rare grapes, e.g. Albarín Blanco, Albarín Negro and Carrasquín. My limited experience of wines from this region would suggest interesting chewy whites and vibrant reds.

Cariñena - Grape originating in NE Spain, better known in the wine world as Carignan. Once seen as a rather tough workhorse, older vines and love and care have coaxed some spectacular wines from this variety, not least in Priorat but also in neighbouring Montsant, Terra Alta and Costers del Segre. In Rioja it is known as Mazuelo and can bring a bit of backbone to blends, though is rarely seen on its own there, possibly because it may struggle to ripen fully in the more Atlantic climate.

Cariñena DO - Large, mainly bulk-orientated DO in Zaragoza. There is a lot of Grenache here and the region was also quick out of the blocks to chance its arm with “international varieties”. Of course there are exceptions but few wines from Cariñena are currently considered top-flight. This doesn’t matter though. Not every region needs to aspire to the top and on the whole Cariñena does a good job with cheap and cheerful.

Castilla y León - Large region of northern Spain with a fairly hard-core continental climate which contains a lot of history and a lot of quality wine. Much of this wine is already protected by DOs. However there is also the option “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León” which places less restrictions on grape varieties and also allows pan-regional blends. Whilst in theory a lower category, some of these wines are superb.

Catalunya DO - Rather silly DO in my opinion which is really a “Vi de la Terra de Catalunya” dressed up as a DO. A DO is supposed to protect a product created in a specific piece of geography that owes its characteristics in part to that geography, not some huge disparate area stretching from the Pyrenees to the Ebro Delta where you can do more or less do whatever you want. That doesn’t mean the wines are bad though and this category allows large companies, such as Torres, to create large volume consistent blends at good prices. If you’re looking for terroir specificity though, best to look elsewhere or at least drill down to work out what’s in your glass.

Cava - Another rather silly non-terroir DO which controls the production of a large percentage of the bottled-fermented sparkling wine made in Spain. Most of this wine comes from Penedès (west of Barcelona) however there are other outposts in Valencia, La Rioja, Aragón and Extremadura and cross-regional blends are permitted. There are some superb Cavas made but much of the volume is controlled by a few big players who have managed to control costs to such an extent that you can sometimes buy a bottle of Cava for less than 2€ in Spain. Inevitably these cheap Cavas are nothing special, which has created a bit of an image problem for DO Cava that has proven hard to shake and is bad timing in the light of stiff competition on the export markets from Prosecco. Domestic sales have suffered too for various reasons.

In short, all these factors have created intense competition for customers who just want something fizzy, and the largest Cava producers have been able to survive by squeezing margins and hence quality further. Enough was enough for some of the DO’s best producers, unable to compete on price and unwilling to cut corners - which resulted in them taking the brave decision to leave the Cava DO altogether and create / join something more quality-orientated instead. To combat this DO Cava has been fighting back and is trying to firmly implant the idea of quality tiers and regionality within the behemoth. With a lot at stake and a lot of interested players It would seem that this storm in a flute is yet to fully play out. At the end of the day there are some fabulous Cavas around and you generally get what you pay for

Cebreros - Pretty new small DO in central Spain on the northern slopes of the Sierra de Gredos. Think old vines at reasonable altitude in poor soils, the main action being Grenache for reds and Albillo Real for whites. Will be interesting to see how well they sell under such an unfamiliar name. I can’t help thinking a broader Gredos or Sierra de Gredos DO with a Cebreros subzone would have been a smarter move. Then again with just 500 hectares, the reputation of the Gredos area and the proximity to Madrid they probably have enough cards to make a success of it

Cencibel - An alternative name for Tempranillo, generally used in central southern Spain.

Chardonnay - A bit like Cabernet Sauvignon in that there are some good examples in Spain but they are rarely seen as prestigious and so it’s not a really important grape here. Bit of a shame, as Chardonnay can grow very well, particularly in the northern half of the country. The best area would seem to be in the NE from Navarra towards the east and south, passing through Somontano, Costers del Segre and Conca de Barberà and ending up in some Catalan fizz. Again, like Cabernet, it is also planted at some ambitious one-off estates in central Spain that were looking for prestige but with hindsight some of these planting decisions now look anachronistic.

Cigales - Little known DO in north central Spain with close to 2000ha. Traditionally the main action was dark rosés made by blending red and white varieties. These are still present today but there has also been a move to reds, no doubt influenced by the higher prices commanded by their neighbours in Ribera. There are also whites from Albillo, Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc. With (pale) rosé booming globally now and their important neighbours nailling reds and whites it must be hard for Cigales to create the right identity for itself. What should they do? Similar to Ribera, similar to Rueda, copy the pale rosé style or stick to their roots? I think identity is perhaps the main challenge here, as with old vines and similar conditions to their neighbours there ought to be no problem making quality wines in Cigales.

Comando G - Pioneering team who helped put Grenache from the Gredos region on the map, working with old high-altitude vineyards in a generally minimalist style which has captured the attention of buyers and critics around the world.

Conca de Barberà - Denominación in inland Catalunya. They grow a bit of everything here, including grapes destined for Cava. But for some reason the Conca doesn’t seem as warm as some of its neighbours and the wines are very rarely overripe. Their key niche is Trepat - a grape that can go into Cava but which also makes pale reds with good acidity and moderate alcohols. As a table wine Trepat has quite a bit of personality though the jury seems to be out on whether this is best expressed as a natural wine (very pale, low extraction and often pretty oniony reductive) or riper and more conventionally (with fruit more to the fore).

Corpinnat - A grouping of several quality-orientated firms who all make bottle-fermented sparkling wine from the heart of the Penedès region. Really a collective marketing tool, this grouping was formed in 2017 as a reaction to the direction that the Cava DO was heading and their frustrations with Cava’s lax rules and cheap and mildly cheerful image. Initially the idea was to do this within the Cava DO, as a kind of quality subzone but when this became impossible the founders bravely left Cava and set up on their own. Rules include 100% hand-harvested grapes, a commitment to organic viticulture and sustainability and a minimum of 18 months lees-ageing for all wines.

Things appear to be going well so far and the organisation continues to attract new members. But with other sparkling options in the mix (Conca del Riu Anoia and Clàssic Penedès) and with Cava making changes to try and shore up quality tiers and enhance regionality, the world of Catalan sparkling is confusing and ripe for consolidation.

Costers del Segre - High-quality DO located in inland Catalunya. The actual production zone is scattered widely so this is probably best thought of as a collective DO for wines from Lleida province. A lot of different grapes are permitted and as such the DO doesn’t have much of an identity, but the one thing that is shared is a dry, continental climate that allows premium grapes to be grown and the region is increasingly turning to organic viticulture and sustainability.

Some producers focus on well made, polished wines whereas others are happy to take more risks and are looking to highlight their version of site-expression. To the north lie the Pyrenees and there’s a growing interest in higher-altitude vineyards with the hope of mitigating some of the effects of climate change. With Catalan heavyweights Codorníu and Torres present I can’t help thinking that this region has all the ingredients to become better known. Yet with such a wealth of styles and sub-zones all under one roof, perhaps brands will continue to trump the DO name for the foreseeable future.

Crianza - A wine has undergone some maturation before release. The rules differ depending on wine style and wine region but generally involve a bit of oak ageing. As an official term this name is most commonly seen in Rioja reds, where you would typically get a youngish fruity red with its corners rounded out and a bit of vanilla and spice for seasoning. This is a huge category in Spain and many people will just ask for a crianza at a bar without specifying anything else. At the bottom end the oak character is usually amped-up in a crude attempt to prove that the wine has been oak aged and hence you’re getting what you paid for. At the top end producers may eschew the category all together and just oak-age a wine as they see fit and use their branding and image to carry the wine. Outside of Rioja the term is much less used, though you can still find it in places like Ribera, Toro and Valdepeñas. The word can also be used less formally, as in “crianza bajo velo de flor” - meaning aged under flor or biologically aged. Written as Criança in some parts of eastern Spain.

Denominación de Origen (DO) - The main way that Spanish wine is demarcated and defined regionally. More or less equivalent to a French AOC or Italian DOC. Each one has a defined territory and associated rules. At the time of writing there are I believe 97 wine DOs in Spain (I say wine DOs, as there are also many others that relate to other agricultural products such as ham, honey or peaches). Compared to France and Italy there is more vineyard land in Spain but many fewer DOs, meaning that some of them are quite large.

Recently various DOs have been under fire and there are various storms in teacups rumbling on across the country. The two main gripes seem to be that either the DO is too big and generic and doesn’t allow site-specific quality-orientated producers to really flourish (think Rioja or Cava. Rueda has perhaps nipped this in the bud with the recent introduction of the “Gran Vino de Rueda” tier) or that the rules are dumb / arbitrary / outdated and don’t allow forward-thinking producers to really shine, for example the tasting panel that approves the wines may not understand natural wine styles.

Denominación de Origen Calificada - A supposedly higher / stricter tier of DO that has been sought and obtained by Rioja and Priorat (Denominació d'Origen Qualificada in Catalan). Doesn’t really mean anything except that on the labels you will see the DO name written as Rioja DOCa and Priorat DOQa.

Empordà - An interesting DO in Girona province in north east Catalunya, which is split into two regions: the Baix Empordà east of Girona city and the more important Alt Empordà to the north, between Figueres and the border with “Catalunya Nord” (France). The region enjoys a Mediterranean climate, though can get surprisingly hot and is often very windy. Numerous grapes are permitted, though the DO sees the more local Macabeu, Garnatxas and Carinyenas as its mainstays. I used the plural, as within these varieties are a number of oddities, including (using their French names) Carignan Blanc and Grenache Gris that are starting to gain a little traction.

Patriotic locals, a huge tourism industry and Girona’s smart restaurant scene seem to mop up most of these wines, meaning that little is exported. Such high local demand is not without its problems though, as it can allow mediocre wines to sell for reasonable prices, undermining their competitiveness away from home. Saying that, newer generations are raising the bar these days, with good if rarely spectacular results. Despite some good press I still think Empordà could try harder. One really cool local tradition is fortified wines aged oxidatively in demijons outside under the sun for several years. Amazing to see and with layers of complexity in the glass.

En Rama - Highly-regarded and currently trendy subset of Andaluz wine, typically a Fino or Manzanilla, which is bottled straight from the barrel with minimal filtration or stabilisation, leading to a more intense flavour and colour.

Er Guerrita (Taberna Der Guerrita) - Bar / restaurant in Sanlúcar de Barrameda with a fantastic offering for wine lovers, including a string of top-flight tastings and events throughout the summer.

Espumoso - Generic term for sparkling wine. Doesn’t have to be bottle-fermented.

Ferran Centelles - Expert on Spanish wine. Was sommelier at mythical restaurant El Bulli and continues to collaborate with this project as well as being an author, wine educator and DWWA judge and Regional Chair.

Fino - Bone dry style of traditional Andalucían wine which derives great interest, complexity and unusual slightly appley flavours from being aged under a layer of flor yeast in partially full vessels for a number of years. Often blended in a solera system to maintain a consistent style. The Sherry triangle produces the most well-known examples but you can also find it in Montilla-Moriles and Condado de Huelva. Interestingly the production process seems to trump regional differences in climate and the grapes used, although of course differences remain.

Flor - The name given to types of yeast that grow across the surface of wine exposed to air in a partially full vessel, slowly changing the wine’s chemistry and flavour.

Fondillón - Largely forgotten wine style from Alicante province that was massive in the past but then almost died out. Happily it is now making a small comeback. Basically we are talking about over-ripe Monastrell grapes which undergo a natural fermentation and then at some point the fermentation may stop before all the sugar is used up. This wine is then aged in oak barrels for a minimum of 10 years and can be released as a vintage or solera (multi-vintage) product and will likely display rancio type characteristics.

Foudre - Large oak barrel / tank. The usage of the word seems to vary a bit depending on the region but we might be talking about, say, 1500L-5000L and the barrel may well be on its side. At any rate it will be fixed in position. The theory is that you get gentle oxidation in these tanks without much / any oak influence. Traditionally these were used a lot for wine maturation but then died out a bit, though recently they have made something of a comeback as small format 225-300L oak barrels have fallen out of favour.

Galicia - The bit of Spain which lies to the north of Portugal is arguably the country’s most happening macro region, helped no doubt by the fact that big oaky wines are out and “fresh”, “mineral”, “Atlantic”, “saline” wines are in. Atlantic influence diminishes from west to east, to a large extent dictating wine styles, but high mountains, dramatic gorges and inland bodies of water also have a marked influence. Wines are usually produced on a small to medium scale and are often blended from numerous small lots from a potpourri of grapes and growers with an awful lot of vowels between them.

Garnacha (also spelled Garnatxa in some regions) - The Spanish name for the grape known internationally as Grenache. Native to Spain, Garnacha is undeniably enjoying its moment in the sun. Solid professional outfits in Campo de Borja and Calatayud have been producing great value fruity reds for years now but Garnacha’s current turn on the catwalk probably owes more to a number of mostly low-intervention artisanal producers on a mission for site expression. Happily this comes in a range of guises from cooler-climate Atlantic Grenache in Navarra, through re-evaluated vineyards from south-east Rioja, Mediterranean Garnatxa from southern Catalunya, wines of intensity from the slopes of Moncayo or as an outlier the lighter more hands-off styles typical to the Sierra de Gredos region west of Madrid. One of the grapes that can best handle interior Spain’s dry conditions, Garnacha’s success looks here to stay, the only fly in the ointment being climate change which could push alcohol levels even higher.

Garnacha Blanca - White version of Garnacha, common in southern Catalunya. Terra Alta in particular claims to have 30% of all the White Grenache planted in the world. It’s a bit of a hard grape to pin down, you usually get a decent whack of alcohol but also decent acidity. It’s not the fruitiest grape but you may find citrus, green melon, TDN/waxy or fennel notes. Occasionally teams up with wood but this requires a fair bit of skill to get it right.

Garnacha Tintorera - Name often used in Spain for the Alicante Bouschet grape. This grape is a cross of Grenache and Petit Bouschet and is a teinturier grape, so gives a lot of colour. Until recently this was widely looked down upon as nothing more than a blender, useful to beef things up a bit but not much else. But the usual story of old forgotten vineyards being treated with kid gloves has yielded interesting results. Seems to be most common in SE Spain around Almansa and Jumilla but can also be found in NW Spain around Bierzo and Valdeorras. To generalise I think you’re going to get a deep-coloured, reasonably solid, rustic red, sometimes with a kind of sagey herby edge which can work quite well.

Genérico - Generic. As applied to Rioja DOCa certification labels this is the green one, which means that the wine is outside the traditional Crianza / Reserva / Gran Reserva system and so confusingly may be almost anything from a fruity glugger to a bodega’s top drop from a single vineyard.

Godello - Interesting white grape from NW Iberia, which has recently garnered a lot of support and praise as potentially one of Spain’s best grapes and even “the new Burgundy” etc, yet seems to be struggling to live up to this. Certainly Rafael Palacios deserves a lot of credit for backing this grape to the hilt and laboriously recovering tiny parcels to create A-list wines from out of nowhere. On the back of this a few major wine players have moved in, also making good wines which complement their portfolios as a sort of thinking person’s white (compared to the rather more obvious choice of making a Rueda). Yet there’s not that much Godello to go round, especially old vine material, and the newer and valley floor grapes don’t seem as exciting. There’s also the problem of what’s it supposed to taste like? For every taut minerally example there are three waxy citrus numbers. And Godello’s fame within Spain is very limited. So if you’re a local producer, you might be better off making a straightforward clean white from decent-yielding vines rather than aim for something nebulous with dubious market demand. In short, potentially great but not many are reaching the heights.

Graciano - Grape from northern Spain, Rioja / Navarra area which you sometimes see further afield around Toledo and also (as Tintilla) in Cádiz. Has quite a marked personality, deep colour, low pH and can also show a white pepper / spicy character. In marginal northern sites it might be a touch too hardcore to be released on its own, but can be very useful as a blender by adding a bit of zip to crowd-pleasing Tempranillos or heavy Grenaches. Further south Graciano seems to be a safer bet and varietal versions have a bit more ripeness,

Gran Reserva - Wines with a long ageing requirement. Traditionally these were thought of as the country’s top wines, only made in good years and super-polished on release. Strongly associated with Rioja, the term is also useful in Catalan sparkling where the ageing requirement is on lees. Also quite visible in Valdepeñas but some companies’ alleged dubious practices and the ridiculously low prices of these wines in supermarkets has effectively sold the bottom out of the category there. These days in Rioja, a company’s top wine might be released under the green “genérico” label but Gran Reservas persist. In many cases you will get a mature elder-statesman type wine, with plenty of depth, layers and complexity, sold at relative bargain prices. Few countries do this kind of thing these days, so it’s well worth reading up a bit and hunting around and trying to find a producer whose style you are in tune with.

Granel - The Spanish work for bulk / unbottled wine. For example wine in tanks in bodegas or wine shipped in bulk.

Gredos - The Sierra de Gredos is a major mountain range to the west of Madrid. The region has been in the wine press a lot in recent years, far in excess of its meagre output. The main driver has been a series of new, generally Grenache-based wines coming from low yielding old vines in the rocky sierras. It’s an area that had previously produced very little of note and so as such very much represents the new Spain. I haven’t been the biggest fan of the wines, finding them too often lacking in substance, combined perhaps with a kick at the finish and/or showing one wine “fault” or other. And they’re usually not cheap, rendering many of these wines poor value. Others will disagree and of course there are good wines made and also decent value wines. Like them or not I think most people would agree that the Grenache wines from this region are quite different from anything else in Spain.

One thing that’s perhaps holding the region back is what do we call it? Everyone seems to like “Sierra de Gredos” or just “Gredos” but the broader region falls into various DO and political zones. Probably the ideal thing would be to have a “Sierra de Gredos DO” with subzones, but realistically that’s probably going to stay in the too hard basket for quite a while, if it ever happens at all.

Hondarrabi Beltza - Pretty rare red grape used in Txakoli production. Not sure which is more niche, red Txakoli or red Rías Baixas. Either way  don’t wear white and make sure your enamel’s in good shape. Possibly more user-friendly as a rosé or in sparkling.

Hondarrabi Zuri - The major white grape in Txakoli. Can be made in a range of styles, depending on climate, ripeness and lees ageing.

Hormigón - Spanish word for concrete. Used in wine to refer to concrete tanks.

Indicación Geográfica Protegida (IGP) - In theory an intermediate rung on the classification ladder: down from DO wine but above table wine, similar to Vin de Pays in France. There are over 40 of these IGP regions in Spain, dotted all over. Some of these regions are very large and some wines can be very good - just because a winery’s located in an IGP rather than a DO doesn’t really mean you can make assumptions about quality.

Jerez - Major town in southern Spain, with a marked Andaluz character. Acts as the capital of the Sherry area and is well worth a visit. Jerez is also the Spanish word for Sherry.

Juan García - Niche red grape found in the far west of Spain, most commonly in DO Arribes.

Jumilla - Important area of wine production in SE Spain. It’s hot and sunny here for most of the growing season, although continentality and altitude can lead to beneficial big day-night swings. The region was a byword for bulk but then diversified into other varieties to look for another angle. Wines from Jumilla have occasionally scored very highly with foreign critics and these days the bulk image seems to have gone and it’s now possibly seen as the leading region in the south east. The main story is old bush vine Monastrell, which is really at home here. Think ripe, chunky reds, sometimes with a slight chocolatey note.

Kalimotxo - Low-fi combo of Coca Cola and cheap red wine, best enjoyed around 2am in local fiestas, particularly across the north of the country.

La Mancha - Region and large DO in central southern Spain. With a planted area higher than Australia’s, vines are big business down here with a number of mega-coops chewing through immense volumes. Poke around and you can find some great wines, but the area is mainly known for bulk.

Lías - Lees.

Lanzarote - Fascinating Canary Island and DO, lying around 80 miles off the NW coast of Africa. Wine has a long history here, despite the tricky growing conditions (low latitude, low rainfall, constant wind). These conditions have been spectacularly tamed by digging hollows and/or the creation of endless zocos (crescent-shaped rock walls), one per vine. One the rise at the moment, Lanzarote is hanging it’s hat on its Malvasía Volcánica grape, though Listán Negro can also be interesting, amongst other options.

León DO - Small wine region in NW Spain, doing a decent job of making a name for itself, despite having much larger and more famous neighbours. Points of difference worth looking out for would include the Prieto Picudo grape for reds and bright rosés and also Albarín for whites. As an aside, León city is one Spain’s finest with an enjoyable free tapa culture and the mountains to the north are rugged and well worth a visit.

Liébana - Interesting and beautiful region of Cantabría which benefits from partial rain-shadow and so can grow a larger range of products than you might expect in this Atlantic region, wine included. No wine DO yet but they do have an IGP.

Listán Blanco - Local name for Palomino Fino when grown in the Canary Islands.

Listán Negro - Red grape variety which is currently enjoying a starring rôle in the Canary Islands.

Loureiro(a) - White grape variety important in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region which also has a presence across various Galician DOs, though rarely in a lead role in Spain.

Luis Gutiérrez - Renowned blind-taster and important Spanish wine critic who writes for Robert Parker / Wine Advocate and other publications. Author of “Los Nuevos Viñadores”. Also co-founder of elmundovino.com

Macabeo - Important white grape which is widespread across Rioja (known there as “Viura”) / NE Spain / Catalunya (“Macabeu”) / Roussillon. A bit of a funny one really, not especially aromatic or flavourful, one of its key attributes seems to be that you can make a fresh white out of it in southern Europe and ones which often seems to improve with age. A bit of a blank canvas in a way which seems to work well in barrel ferments (Rioja) and when blended, e.g. with Parellada and Xarel.lo in Catalan sparkling or with White Grenache in Terra Alta.

Maceración Carbónica - Carbonic Maceration. Interesting winemaking technique which is particularly common amongst young Tempranillo reds from Rioja Alavesa. The idea is that you get bright juicy gluggers that are less than a year old, though the candied banana aroma that often goes with it can take a little bit of getting used to.

Málaga - Charming sub-tropical city and province in southern Spain which used to be one of the most important wine regions in Europe. DO Málaga protects what’s left of this traditional style of wine - often sweet, aged wines made from Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel, now a shadow of its former self. Table wines are covered by the DO Sierras de Málaga.

Mallorca - The largest island in the Balearics. Modern wines from Mallorca have been on the scene for a few decades now, most visibly from producer Ánima Negra, later joined by 4 Kilos - although the largest producer on the island is José L. Ferrer. The wine scene is continuing to develop on the island  with a growing interest in natural wines and with local grapes such as Premsal Blanc, Callet, Mantonegro and Fogoneu increasingly to the fore. Given the high land prices on the island and the small scale of production, these wines are never going to be cheap but neither are they exorbitant and they bring a welcome change to the table.

Manchuela - A region and fairly large DO in eastern Spain, roughly 100km west of Valencia. About 75% reds, of which Bobal is the most important variety. A little bit hard to generalise here but what is certain is that the profile of what would have been a pretty anonymous region has risen considerably of late, due mainly to the efforts of some smaller quality-focussed producers, perhaps the most famous of these being Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce.

Manzanilla - A type of Fino Sherry which has to be matured in bodegas near the sea in the area of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The idea with this is that the more maritime climate promotes more even flor growth and hence protects this type of Sherry a little more, leading to slightly more delicate wines, some say with a salty edge. Perfect with the local seafood of course. WARNING - Asking for a “Manzanilla” in many parts of Spain will get you a chamomile tea, so depending what you want it might be an idea to weigh up the bar beforehand and have your Spanish ready.

Manzanilla Pasada - A Manzanilla that has spent longer than usual (minimum 7 years) under flor and so is less pale and has developed a more complex flavour compared to the normal version, perhaps at the expense of freshness. Nuttier and more mellow in my rather limited experience,

Mencía - One of Spain’s best red grapes, its homeland is Bierzo and inland Galicia in NW Spain. Happily many old vines remain in these areas and these are now being properly understood and exploited, helped a fair bit by DO Bierzo which is one of the country’s most forward-thinking. Probably too big a generalisation but in warmer sites (lower bits of Bierzo) you can get ripe, chunky reds that can work well with some oak. Higher up and further west, particularly in Ribeira Sacra an ethereal perfumed style takes over, which can be a little sappy but can also be delicious and is pretty unlike anything else the country has to offer. Some of the best parcels in Bierzo and Valdeorras are now produced and marketed as such and are gaining recognition as some of the best wines in the country.

Méntrida - DO in Central Spain. Little bit confusing, as the northwestern part is associated with the Gredos (ie lighter Grenache, grown at altitude), whereas the southern part is fairly low and hot, producing solid ripe numbers that may lack finesse. There’s a wide grape mix permitted in the DO, both Spanish and French, the upshot being that if you buy a bottle of Méntrida, you’re not really sure what you’re going to get. Happily a number of consultants are now working in the area to help get the best out of the local conditions.

Merenzao - French red grape “Trousseau” that can be found in small amounts in NW Spain (and Portugal as “Bastardo”). A personal favourite in Ribeira Sacra, though some may find its sour, aromatic style a bit much. Examples from Fazenda Prádio and Ronsel do Sil are well worth trying to get your hands on.

Merlot - Like Cabernet Sauvignon there is a fair bit of this grape in Navarra, Somontano, Catalunya and various other regions, plus bit part presence in single finca estates set up at the wrong time, when French grapes were thought to be better than local. Can be fruity but quite pyraziney and short in Penedès and rarely / never sets the world on fire elsewhere, though possibly useful as a blender.

Merseguera - Minority white grape found in eastern and south eastern Spain. Seems a bit lacking in personality but a few people are making a fist of it and if done well the results can be pretty decent, if unspectacular. Possibly some old-vine, high altitude (1000m) sites could show real potential but in general Merseguera is perhaps best suited to blends - the Merseguera forming a malleable backbone and the blending grape nudging it in a certain direction.

Mistela - A drink made from grape juice which is fortified before it has a chance to ferment, resulting in sweet, simple “wines” on the whole - commonly but not limited to grapey Moscatels from Valencia and Alicante.

Monastrell - One of Spain’s best red grapes, Monastrell is at home in the arid, sunny uplands of SE Spain, mostly being found in Jumilla, Yecla, Alicante and Bullas, though sometimes further north. Interestingly this grape is known as “Mataro” in Australia (the “M” in “GSM” blends) and there is a town in Catalunya called Matarò. Also known as Mourvèdre in France. Monastrell can handle the heat and usually produces dense, dark fruited wines, with a decent whack of alcohol, which can pair well with oak.

Monterrei - DO in Galicia, which is often forgotten about but actually makes some pretty good wines, if removed a bit from the general excitement of the other Galicia DOs. Main white grapes include Godello and Treixadura, with Mencía (and others) for reds. Although it seems to be a warm area I’d say it’s the whites that have impressed me the most, though there’s quite a bit of variation.

Montilla-Moriles - Wine region in Córdoba province in southern Spain which offers high quality traditional wines and vinegars. At the top end these solera-aged PX wines enjoy a truly world-class reputation and even the basic Finos and Amontillados are very good and always great value. Away from the traditional wines an exciting recent development has been trying to show what can be done with Pedro Ximénez grapes from top vineyards when picked earlier and made as table wine, using techniques such as flor-ageing in tinajas and playing around with skin contact. Less excitingly the region also produces normal table wines from a range of white grapes.

Montsant - For me, one of the best value regions in the country. Located in Tarragona province, this mountainous area enjoys a decent climate and has a range of soils, aspects and altitudes to play with. Mostly reds, the main grapes are Mediterranean classics such as Grenache and Carignan, with a few more unusual options and typical French travellers thrown in. This unassuming region generates very little news or wine-critic press but deserves to be better known.

Moristel - Niche red grape, generally only seen in Aragon’s Somontano region. Now gaining a little ground with the renewed focus on local varieties, e.g. Pasotismo Moristel 76.

Moscatel - The Spanish name for Muscat of Alexandria. This grape seems to like warm sunshine and as such thrives in an arc starting in southern Navarra, then east to the Mediterranean, down through Valencia and round past Málaga to Jerez. At its most basic you get sweet grapey gluggers (see mistela), whereas other areas treat it with respect to create incredible dessert wines, sometimes insanely brown and gloopy. A small percentage goes a long way in Catalunya to add floral notes to otherwise dull whites. In the Axarquía (Málaga) a few visionaries have crafted pearls from largely forgotten vineyards and in the Marina Alta (Alicante) there is a growing number of interesting projects looking to get the best from this maligned grape.

Mosto - Means “must”, is either grape juice or de-stemmed crushed grapes.

Navarra - Historic, semi-autonomous region of Spain and home to DO Navarra as well as a few single estate “Vino de Pago”s. The northern part of Navarra is pretty mountainous, green and Basque and basically too wet for quality grape growing. Just south from Pamplona things change and a wide range of grapes are grown, with mountain ranges throwing up numerous possibilities, whereas southern Navarra is quite low-lying, sunny and enjoys hot summers. Navarra also includes a small desert and the edges of the Pyrenees within its borders.

The diversity of this mini-continent is perhaps its undoing. Growing everything fairly well, leaves it searching for a killer app and whilst the DO contains numerous good producers it seems to be struggling to get out of 3rd gear. Rosé wines have a long history here but Navarra doesn’t seem to have capitalised on the global trend (perhaps because rosé is looked down upon within Spain). Chardonnay is perhaps the region’s best grape but nobody wants Spanish Chardonnay. Much of the reds are decent and fruity, often using Tempranillo, sometimes with Bordeaux grapes, yet rarely get any credit compared to neighbouring Rioja for example. Perhaps the wines that have sparked the most interest amongst wine critics are the “Atlantic” Grenaches, grown in relatively cool climates, made in a generally hands-off fashion. With other isolated examples of brilliance, such as Zorzal’s Graciano or Ochoa’s Moscato it’s hard to really fathom why such a fantastic wine-growing region isn’t playing in the top league.

Negre - The Catalan / Valencian / Mallorcan word for black, meaning red in a wine context.

Oloroso - A style of traditional Andalucían wine that is fortified to contain enough alcohol so that flor can’t grow and as such is deliberately aged oxidatively for a long time in partially full barrels, producing a rich wine with a sweet almost fudgey nose and a very complex flavour profile reminiscent of figs, walnuts, Christmas cake and reputably “old furniture polish”. Can be bone dry or sweetened.

Pago - Slightly hard to translate, means a named area or piece of land and can be used as follows:

Under Spanish wine law there is a category “Vino de Pago”, whereby an estate meeting various strictish conditions can apply to have its own DO, Château-Grillet style. Skeptics sometimes argue that it is more a paperwork exercise than anything. The fact that there are no Vinos de Pago in many of Spain’s top wine areas (e.g. La Rioja, Castilla y León, Galicia) raises further question marks about the category. Still, it is at least a good way for ambitious estates to get noticed. In Catalunya there is a similar system known as “Vi de Finca”.

There is also a private organisation called “Grandes Pagos de España” which is essentially a collective marketing exercise for many of Spain’s top estates, or ones that think they are top - though the newer edgier wineries that are getting most press at the moment tend to be absent.

The word “pago” can also form part of a winery’s name e.g. “Pago de Carraovejas” or can be the name of a wine, e.g. “Pago Mota”.

Palo Cortado - A category of traditional Andalucían wine which is quite rare and combines the characteristics of Amontillado and Oloroso. Can be a happy accident or can be created by nudging wines in the right direction. The best are quite expensive and some of the most sought after wines in their regions, but the deliberately hazy definition has opened the door to cheaper versions, which on the plus side make this style more accessible but on the down side could reduce the prestige of the genuine gems.

Palomino - Usually means Palomino Fino, the white grape that the majority of Sherry is made from. This is a prime example of making a silk purse from a sow’s ear, because as a grape it’s rarely considered to be anything special - although I have had some interesting ones as “Listán Blanco” from Tenerife. Also found in north west Spain.

Parellada - One of the big three grapes in Penedès sparkling. Gives acidity and finesse. Rarely seen on its own but there are a few isolated examples, which can be interesting. Usually pretty delicate.

Pedro Ximénez - White grape found mostly in southern Spain, where it is the lead variety grown in Montilla-Moriles. Can also be grown really ripe / raisined in the sun as a sweetener for some styles of Sherry or creating some super insane brown gloopy dessert options on its own. Outside of the south PX occasionally pops up elsewhere, e.g. Priorat.

Penedés - Major grape-growing region, west of Barcelona. A good chunk of the production here is dedicated to sparkling but there’s also plenty else. Xarel.lo as a stand alone white has gained a lot of ground of late, often as a natural wine and is usually interesting and frequently quite good. White Grenache is much rarer here but can also be good and Chardonnay is pretty reliable. These apart, a lot of Penedès whites are a bit dull, though sometimes perked up with a hint of Muscat. There are also oddities to look for, such as Malvasía de Sitges. Reds are often a bit short and/or pyraziney, though there are a few diamonds in the rough with isolated patches of Cab Franc often showing well.

Peñín - Important wine guide in Spain, named after the veteran founder José Peñín. The company also organises wine fairs, has an important web presence and organises tastings and wine education events.

Peter Sisseck - Almost mythical Danish winemaker who made his name in Ribera del Duero, particularly with the cult wine Pingus - the first vintage of which (1995) was roundly praised by Robert Parker and went on to become one of the most expensive wines in the country. He’s still active in Ribera but is also involved in other ventures, most recently with a project in Jerez.

Pla de Bages - Small Catalan DO offering a range of wines including some interesting niche local grapes that are being nursed back to fruition. These include Picapoll Blanc on the white side and Picapoll Negre, Sumoll and Mandó for reds. Both can be quite interesting, the reds in particular are often quite crunchy and pyraziney for those looking for something a little different.

Prieto Picudo - Grape grown mainly around León in NW Spain, giving bright reds and vivacious rosés.

Priorat - Small wine region in Catalunya which makes some of the most concentrated and expensive wines in the country. Driving round here is astonishing with vines and terraces clinging to just about every precipitous mountainside, often seemingly growing straight out of decomposed rock. The main grapes are Carignan and Grenache and some of these vineyards are very old. There’s also a bit of white which can also be quite full-bodied and good, often made from White Grenache with a supporting cast.

Priorat’s governing body takes an active role and has recently implemented a multi-layered quality pyramid, based on the region’s complex geography, with the aim of highlighting special plots and hence creating further prestige. Despite this, one could argue that Priorat faces quite a stiff challenge these days, as an already warm region gets warmer and wine fashion is currently 180º from the massive reds that built Priorat’s reputation.

PX - A name often used to refer to the grape Pedro Ximénez.

Racimo - The Spanish word for grape bunch.

(Vino) Rancio - A type of old-school wine, usually made from super-ripe grapes and possibly fortified that has undergone a long period of oxidative ageing and so ends up brown, complex and figgy / chocolatey / fudgey / walnutty. Can be sweet or dry but usually smell like they’re going to taste sweet.

Rafael Palacios - Pioneering winemaker, one of the main driving forces behind the revitalisation of superb Godello wines from Valdeorras (Galicia). Rafa has gradually expanded his holding, recovering old vineyards and has created an intelligent range of whites to reflect this. These wines are now widely regarded as amongst the best whites in the country.

Raúl Pérez - Famous winemaker with massive ZZ Top style beard. Based out of Bierzo, where his impact has been huge in crafting world-class wines from old vine Mencía. Now consults widely, mostly across NW Iberia, and is involved in a dizzying range of projects.

Rebujito - Refreshing cocktail, very popular at festivals during the summer months in SW Spain. Basically Fino or Manzanilla plus something like lemonade and mint.

Reserva - A legally-defined term, relating to how a wine must be aged and the characteristics it ought to have prior to release. Whilst many DOs have Reserva on their rule books, you are most like to see it in Rioja, Cava, Valdepeñas and perhaps Ribera del Duero. The rules vary depending on the region and wine colour. In Rioja for example for reds they are wines that have spent at least 36 months ageing in either barrels or bottles before release (with a minimum of 1 year in barrel and 6 months in bottle). In Cava the wine must have aged for at least 18 months on lees. In either case what you should be looking at is a decent wine that has picked up some interest from this ageing but which can go on for several years more. They ought to represent the house style and would usually be close to the midpoint in a company’s range.

Rías Baixas - Wine region in western Galicia, most famous for Albariño whites. There has been some mutterings of late about dilute wines that don’t offer great value but in general the region enjoys a good reputation and sales are booming. Apart from the trademark citrussy, peachy whites, one fairly recent development has been increased interest in wines with extended lees contact, released several years down the track to wide critical acclaim (though personally I’m not always convinced). There are other minority but good grapes around and you also get to see the odd red - although their sharp flavours won’t suit everybody.

Ribeira Sacra - Region and DO which is possibly still the most exciting wine region in Spain, Ribeira Sacra is famous for isolated vineyards on crazy-steep slopes above tranquil river gorges. The wines can be spectacular: at their best ethereal, fresh reds with enough weight to be taken seriously, in some ways a little bit like Loire reds but not as pyraziney. Saying that, there’s not a lot of consensus style-wise, and some of the producers work in a hands-off fashion that’s not always in tune with the DO. In fact many of the region’s best producers don’t make DO wine. Within the DO there are quite a lot of permitted grapes, happily almost all of these are “local”, with the main ones being Mencía for reds and Godello for whites. These whites again have a point of difference and can also be good, often a little muted but textured and sometimes with agreeable tinned fruit characteristics.

Ribeiro - Historic wine region in interior western Galicia that is quietly (re) gaining in status and interest. A lot of different grape varieties are grown here, with the main one being Treixadura for whites. Due to high rainfall and yields Ribeiro has been seen as a good source for cheap and cheerful, with plenty of ok, clean citrussy whites going for 2 - 5 euros a bottle in Spain. There’s still a lot of that but there are also some top wines produced and quite a few interesting reds.

Ribera del Duero - Top wine region in north central Spain, known for solid but polished reds made from high-altitude Tinto Fino (Tempranillo). The region appears to be doing well judging by average pricing. Protos Crianza is now around 13€ online in Spain and Pago de Carraovejas Crianza is north of 30€. Ribera wines are sometimes dismissed as oak-monsters but these days there’s a lot of talk about fresher wines from higher vineyards to the east and those lying outside the main valley. Indeed some excellent small-lot terroir specific wines are now appearing, challenging the monolithic stereotype.

Recently the DO changed its rules to also allow white Ribera del Duero wines to be produced, the main grape being Albillo Mayor. These are currently few on the ground but well worth looking out for.

Rioja - Large wine region in north central Spain, famous for Tempranillo dominant reds that have often been smoothed by time in barrel. Despite the well-known historic brands and the sleepy nature of the villages there is plenty going on here under the hood, with new wines, new producers and even “new” grapes coming up trumps on a regular basis. One example is a renewed interest in whites, with barrel-aged Viura blends showing well of late. Another being the rise of eastern Rioja, with high-altitude Grenache in particular proving to be as good as anywhere else in the country.

Rules-wise the Rioja DOCa is engaged in a bit of a struggle to try and satisfy all its members, from bulk producers to top estates. There are now two overlapping quality systems in place: the traditional one based on ageing and a newer one formed around areas and terroir. The way this has been implemented does not suit everybody and smaller producers haven’t had much of say. Important producer Artadi voted with its feet a while back and others are threatening to follow suit, at least in some form, whilst ABRA tried for a while to establish its own DO which would partially overlap Rioja’s.

Roble - The Spanish word for oak. In wine terms this is often used for reds that have spent a few months in barrel, but not long enough to be a crianza or reserva. So expect an up-front fruity red that may have a vanilla-oaky note and/or is perhaps just a bit more polished than a vibrant joven. Interestingly this is a bit of a mixed bag category. From a good producer in Ribera, say, it is an affordable taste of the house style but usually made from younger or lesser vineyards, so lacking in complexity and depth. From a commercial producer or at the bottom end you might get a bigger whack of obvious oak than expected, as this can be used to prove the category and hence justify a higher price.

Rosado - The Spanish word for rosé. Until fairly recently Spanish rosés often had a reasonable amount of colour, were simple fruity numbers and were usually extremely cheap. Given the large up-tick in interest in rosé outside of Spain, a number of producers have now taken the category more seriously, with several also producing the super-pale style in an effort to cash in on Provence’s success. Wine fashion rarely stands in one place for long and a future renewed interest in darker rosés and lighter reds could play heavily in Spain’s favour, with regions such as León and their Prieto Picudo grape well placed to take advantage.

Rosat - The Catalan / Valencian word for rosé.

Rueda - Major DO in north west central Spain, primarily known for fresh, fruity whites from the Verdejo grape. It’s a bit of a one-trick pony but it’s a fairly good trick to have. In fact the region has been an enormous success story and you can find these whites almost anywhere in Spain, so much so that the words Rueda and Verdejo are often used interchangeably. The wines’ profile is generally a bit like a muted Sauvignon Blanc, which goes down well with just about everybody. In fact there is also some Sauvignon grown here, creating a similar style.

If there is a problem it’s perhaps the bigger producers who create large volumes of clean but simple whites which are sold too cheaply to try and gain / maintain market share. With a largely undiscerning market, it’s tricky for the better producers to defend their better products at higher (but still reasonable) prices. Fortunately the DO has read the tea leaves and amongst many recent changes introduced a “Gran Rueda” category for wines made with lower yields from vines over 30 years (many are much older) and a “village” category - though unusually only 85% of the wine needs to come from the village. It’s too early to say how much of an effect this will have and also how much take up newly permitted wine-styles such as Viognier, Syrah or sparkling Rosé will enjoy. There is also a tradition of fortified, oxidised whites in the area, which is partially being revived, though facing stiff competition from southern Spain it’s hard to imagine that this style will ever earn much more than a local following.

Rufete - Grape native to western Iberia which is the star of the small Sierra de Salamanca DO. I think this whole “I never liked big wines / oak is evil / low intervention is best” mantra is getting a bit overplayed but it probably is relevant in this region. Several years back I found Rufete-based wines rustic, hard and sometimes swamped by wood. But now it seems there’s more delicacy, floral notes and elegance, as the locals continue to refine their techniques.

Sarah Jane Evans MW - British Master of Wine who is widely viewed as the go to person for all things Spanish wine. An award winning writer and journalist, she is co-chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards and chair of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino.

Sauvignon Blanc - French grape which grows pretty well in Rueda and around, adding an extra option to the similarish native grape, Verdejo. These days critical opinion is not really in favour of these foreign incursions, whether they taste good or not, so Sauvignon’s influence is unlikely to spread much further. There is also a bit of Sauvignon in Penedès and dotted around elsewhere but it’s rarely exciting, and certainly there’s not that much point buying it compared to wines from the Loire or the Southern Hemisphere.

Sherry - Traditional wine made in a range of styles in and around Jerez de la Frontera in SW Spain. The main grape is the rather boring Palomino Fino, the base wine from which undergoes astonishing transformations over various years in old barrels hidden away in the depths of forgotten-looking cellars. The wines are not usually vintage dated, instead trickle through a solera system and come out a blend of many vintages, thus maintaining consistency. A shadow of its former self, Sherry is producing brilliant wines at all levels, which combine fantastically with food, although their flavour profile often takes some getting used to for the uninitiated. All critics love Sherry and rightly so, one of the true gems of the wine world. The region itself is a delight to visit, with a kind of faded charm but with no shortage of boutique hotels and top-notch bars. Recent changes in the rules have opened up the region to a wider range of styles and some younger guns are pushing the boundaries a bit in interesting ways.

Sherry Triangle - Name often used as shorthand to roughly define the area where Sherry was aged. The 3 points of the triangle being the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto (de Santa María). Recent changes in the rules, expanding the maturation zone to points way outside the triangle render the phrase a bit less useful.

Sierra de Salamanca - Remote and beautiful spot in western Spain with its own DO and some interesting grape varieties, the most famous of which is Rufete. The locals have been working steadily to get the best out of the region and these days there are also outsiders prospecting around, so expect quality and prestige to rise further and hopefully better distribution will follow.

Sierras de Málaga - DO for a mixed bag of table wines being made from vineyards scattered across mountainous Málaga province. Probably the most exciting of the sub-regions is the Axarquía in the east, where the old-vine dry Moscatel wines can be fantastic and there are oddities to look out for too, such as lightish reds and interesting rosés from the local Romé grape. There’s also quite a bit going on around the spectacular town of Ronda to the west.

Sobre Lías - The same as “Sur Lie” in French, meaning (aged) on lees. Most often seen for whites when the producer has tried to gain a bit of savoury interest and perhaps palate weight, e.g. for some Galician whites which are held back a while before bottling. Could also refer to the time a traditional-method sparkling wine is aged on lees before being disgorged.

Solera - One of the coolest things in Spanish winemaking. Basically a large barrel or more commonly a system of barrels that contains a mixture of (usually traditional) wines from different vintages. Every so often some wine is drawn off from the solera for bottling and then this is replaced with younger wine, often in a multi-step process. If well-maintained this means that the bottled wine is actually a blend of every year since the solera was set up and is consistent from year to year. During solera ageing complex processes take place, so the wine that comes out is way more complex and interesting than the wine that went in.

Somontano - Wine region in northern Spain which makes something of a speciality of French grapes and which mushroomed in the 1990s and 2000s with many modern wineries and outlandish architectures being established. Things have calmed down a bit since then whilst some interest has developed for local grapes such as Grenache and the fairly rare Moristel. If you’re looking for a slab of the new world this is it, with fruit-forward Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends particularly successful. Interestingly Gewürztraminer also does well here.

Syrah - There is quite a bit of Syrah grown in Spain these days and it’s a grape that does well here. Popping up all over Syrah hasn’t really established a Spanish style yet, or a home region to call its own.

Tapón - Means “plug” but in a wine context “closure”, as in “tapón de rosca” which is a screwcap. Real cork or agglomerate would seem to be the market leader in Spain, though plastic corks are not uncommon. Screwcaps and other alternatives are pretty rare.

Telmo Rodríguez - Famous winemaker who made a name for himself making a range of good wines from all over the country at very reasonable prices. Kind of an internal flying winemaker. In more recent years he seems to have become more focussed on higher end wines, as is evidenced by his work in Valdeorras for example and at his family estate Remelluri in Rioja Alavesa. Also a driving force behind the “manifesto” - a document released a few years ago backed by many of the country’s leading winemakers which aimed to re-direct the Spanish industry and its governing bodies away from mass-production to a more nuanced, terroir-focussed, quality-pyramid approach.

Tempranillo - Spain’s most famous and most planted red grape does a very good job in the northern Spanish regions of Rioja and the Duero valley but seems to become less interesting away from its homeland. Certainly it’s nothing special in Catalunya for example. Still, given the importance of Rioja to the Spanish wine industry and given the high prices attained in Ribera it is often perhaps rather lazily viewed as Spain’s best grape. On home turf I see it as the ultimate all-rounder. Decent colour, decent fruit, decent acidity, decent crop, decent tannins - the centre of the dartboard. Marries well with vanilla, cedar and coffee notes from barrels, is also happy to team up with other grapes such as Grenache in Rioja or Bordeaux grapes in Navarra. A fairly easy-going winner that is straightforward enough to make a 7/10 wine from but it seems that good sites, old vines and sensitive handling are particularly key if the aim is to make a really top wine from Tempranillo, rather than a crowd-pleaser.

Tenerife - Currently viewed as the most exciting of the Canary Islands, its recent fame owes much to the work of Suertes del Marqués, their labour recovering traditional “trenzado” viticulture and their numerous single-vineyard releases that have caught the imagination. But they’re not the only trick in town, with top pan-Spain producers Envínate also doing stellar work here and others such as Ignios Orígenes helping create a cluster of great new-wave wines that have really put the island on the map. Tenerife is geographically extremely varied and perhaps to try and capture some of this is home to five DOs, yet there is not yet a DO Tenerife, which to me seems like a blunder.

Terra Alta - One of Catalunya’s last hurrahs before it merges into interior Spain is the Terra Alta region. A good example of what’s been going on across the country whereby a previously workhorse area undergoes a (partial in this case) transformation to quality winemaking. The DO has placed a fair bit of emphasis on 100% White Grenache wines, having supposedly around 30% of global plantations, however it’s unclear what the wines are supposed to taste like nor if there’s really much of a market for them. Build it and they will come? The DO is steadily moving in the right direction though, keeping a lid on yields so that the basic wines are reasonable, whilst recently authorising interesting local grapes such as Morenillo, which can help build a profile at the top end. There’s not much at the moment but it’s an intriguing grape, along with other local rarity Garnatxa Peluda. The mainstay of Terra Alta’s reds derive from Grenache and Carignan, offering decent value, solid but approachable wines with the odd star thrown in.

Terres dels Alforins - Not an official wine region, this is a small area of south east Spain where producers launched an association to promote and conserve the region and its wines. Some of the grapes are grown biodynamically and a number of wines are made using low intervention techniques. With a range of grapes grown in the area perhaps the stand-out feature is freshness, something unexpected in a rather warm part of the country. The names you’re most likely to come across are Rafa Cambra and Celler del Roure, the latter has something of a cult following - perhaps in part due to its amazing tinaja-filled underground cellar.

Tinaja - A clay vessel, similar to an amphora, that has long been used in wine fermentation and storage, particularly in eastern and southern Spain, perhaps most famously in Montilla-Moriles.

Tinta de Toro - Local name given to Tempranillo grown in the Toro region.

Tinto - Red, as in red wine.

Tinto Fino - Local name given to Tempranillo as grown in and around Ribera del Duero.

(Viña) Tondonia - Almost mythical Rioja producer (full name R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia), known for making über-traditional wines that undergo extremely long ageing before release. The cellars are very well worth a visit, with wooden tanks to admire and inch-thick mould on the walls underground. But it’s not all tradition, there’s a surprising architectural touch from the late Zaha Hadid. Whether you like the wines or not (and they’re fairly easy to appreciate, whether you “get” them is perhaps another question) this producer is unquestionably on the A-list and seemingly gains in status every year by stubbornly refusing to move with the times.

Toro - DO in western Spain whose fame rests on the large quantity of old Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) bush vines happily still conserved in the area. This stunning raw material was re-discovered a couple of decades ago and the powerful wines produced, combined with new oak shot the region to fame during the peak of the Parker era. Bit by bit other regions caught up, then fashion moved away from power and oak, so Toro’s front-runner status has waned leaving some producers pondering which direction to take best. Recent changes in the rules suggest the DO is hedging its bets with new white grapes being permitted and monovarietal Grenache wines also being allowed for the first time.

Torres - Large and important producer, based in Catalunya but with winemaking operations throughout Spain and overseas. Torres were pioneers in bringing new technology, such as temperature controlled stainless steel to the peninsular and via economies of scale created a large and successful portfolio of fruit-forward vartietally led wines from areas where this was previously unknown. A little piece of California in Penedès. But it wasn’t just bulk, the firm also enjoyed stunning critical acclaim with its top Cabernet Sauvignon based wine Mas la Plana. Seemingly always ahead of the curve, the firm now seems more focussed on autochthonous varieties and runs an admirable programme to rediscover, classify and propagate local grapes that were lost and about to die out. They are also active environmentally in other ways with numerous projects afoot to improve the sustainability of their operations. The wines are always professionally made and good but rarely brilliant, particularly away from Catalunya where inexplicably they rarely seem to nail it.

Treixadura - Potentially decent quality white grape from NW Iberia that under the right conditions can make superb whites along a kind of citrus, limey, apricot, wet-stones sometimes waxy route. Is the principal white grape in DO Ribeiro where quality can vary quite wildly depending on vine age, yield and the winery’s target market.

Txakoli - Not long ago it seemed that Txakoli was a fun local thing. A bit of a wine curiosity, super-acidic, slightly fizzy, with weird grapes and a fun high pouring tradition - yet somehow not really a proper wine. That’s definitely changed and a good number of ambitious producers have appeared, in some cases picking the grapes a bit less unripe and deploying lees ageing to give the wines more volume. There’s also rosé and red Txakoli and even bottle-fermented sparkling. Generally lowish alcohols, these wines combine perfectly with seafood and being “Atlantic”, “saline”, “minerally” etc are having a bit of a moment. The main issue is finding the wines as the small vineyard areas can only produce so much and a good chunk of that is enjoyed locally.

There are 3 denominaciones producing Txakoli, unsurprisingly split along political rather than terroir grounds. Of the 3 regions, Getaria is the biggest, then Bizcaya, followed by the slightly more inland Álava. With Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir recently approved in Bizcaya, the region’s transformation seems set to continue. Incidentally Txakoli is the Basque spelling, in Spanish it is Chacolí, though as is often the case, regional spellings seem to trump Spanish ones these days.

Ull de Llebre - Catalan name for Tempranillo. Generally this grape does not do so well in Mediterranean Spain.

Utiel-Requena - Large wine region about 1hr inland from Valencia city which enjoys a continental climate. The red grape Bobal is the main story here, though there are plenty of other options, including whites. Despite a lot of talk over the last 10 years the region still doesn’t seem to be firing on all cylinders, which is a shame given how well Bobal can do in neighbouring Manchuela and Finca Terrerazo. I guess as always it’s a balance between volume and quality and in the case of Bobal it seems it can be more unforgiving than other Spanish reds when not given the red carpet. The region is improving though and it’s somewhere I’m keen to know better.

Uva - The Spanish word for “grape”.

Valdeorras - Remote area of Galicia with wild mountains surrounding a narrow plain. Known principally for Godello, the valley floor grapes often go into decent commercial options but it’s the wines from isolated mountain terraces that have set the world on fire. So much so that this region is perhaps the best example of the new Spain today, going from almost nothing to 100% in less than 20 years.

For whites, Rafael Palacios remains the leader with his impressive range being some of the very best that the country has to offer. In recent years other outsiders have come to the region, looking to add interesting options to their portfolios. Important outsiders too, not least CVNE (Rioja), Pago de los Capellanes (Ribera) and Viña Costeira (Ribeiro). So far the results are very encouraging.

Reds can definitely be great here too, possibly the best starting point being Telmo Rodríguez’s project which offers a comprehensive range from the entry level Gaba do Xil to fascinating single vineyard options. CVNE’s Pagos del Galir is also excellent.

Valdepeñas - Large generally bulk wine area located in south central Spain. The main story is smooth Tempranillo reds and to a lesser extent dull but clean whites for immediate consumption. Going back a few decades Valdepeñas was a huge success, available all over the country and on the export market, the reds in particular offered a hint of what you might find in Rioja but at much lower prices. But there has been a race to the bottom and Reserva and Gran Reserva wines can be found on supermarket shelves for risible prices and anybody actually vaguely interested in wine has moved on. In fact the region is currently unpicking mutual accusations of fraud amongst huge firms that may have broken the fairly irrelevant ageing requirements. There are good producers here and you have to feel sorry for them. Bit like making good Lambrusco, your marketing department has an uphill task.

Valencia - Large wine region that doesn’t have much personality, allowing many different grape types and encompassing various terroirs. Quite a bit of the wine is Moscatel which is fortified as juice and sold as sweet, grapey Mistelas for a few euros. But there are some interesting whites here, often from re-discovered high-altitude sites where niche grapes such as Verdil are starting to create waves alongside the more mainstream local standard bearer Merseguera. Reds and rosés are also produced, again without much fanfare in general. A major exception to the mediocrity is the unofficial Terre dels Alforins subzone, though not all these wines are labelled as DO Valencia. Still, things may be looking up, as DO Valencia just won “DO of the year” award from verema.com in July 2021.

Vega Sicilia - Legendary winery with a long history of producing high quality and expensive reds from its base on the banks of the Duero in Valladolid province. Spain’s original Grand Cru is known for powerful but smooth reds from Tempranillo and Bordeaux grapes which are subject to long ageing before release. The company has since expanded into other ventures, including Alión (Ribera del Duero), Pintia (Toro), Macán (Rioja) and Tokaj-Oremus (Tokaji, Hungary).

Verdejo - Popular white grape that is most associated with Castilla y León, in particular the Rueda DO. Verdejo wines tend to be made in the same style and what you get is something like Sauvignon Blanc light or Bacchus heavy. There are many producers and the wine even in its most basic form has some personality. Given that the prices tend to be (too) low, zippy Verdejo-based whites have gone on to become a firm favourite across the country. The better producers work with older vines, lower yields, lees and perhaps barrel ageing to gain depth and interest and hence differentiate their product.

Verema - The Valencian / Catalan work for harvest is also as verema.com the name given to an organisation founded and run by wine lovers which puts on numerous events across the country and runs an active internet forum for wine geeks.

Vi - Catalan / Valencian word for wine. The three main colours are vi blanc, vi rosat and vi negre.

Vi Novell - Catalan name for wine made and released within a few months of harvest. Usually red and often made via carbonic maceration. On the rise in Catalunya with I think 12 producers having a go in 2021. Think uncomplicated fruity gluggers, sometimes with a nice herby twist which can be really good, though the Grenache versions are sometimes rendered a bit off balance due to high alcohols.

Victor de la Serna - Veteran journalist who has specialised in Spanish gastronomy and wine over his long career and was wine critic with national newspaper El Mundo for a good part of that. Also founded boutique winery Finca Sandoval in eastern Spain in 1998.

Vino de la Tierra - Named wine regions in a quality rung which is in theory below DOs, similar to Vin de Pays. These days these are called IGPs, although “Vino de la Tierra” may still be used.

Vinos de Madrid - Sizeable DO (8800ha) home to a mixed bag of producers including some ambitious bodegas which are turning out a range of interesting wines at medium+ prices. One main ace up their sleeve is old vine Grenache from the broader “Gredos” area to its west. But that’s only part of the story and there are numerous solid reds also being produced - with some recent large strides in quality following nudges from consultants and investments in new equipment. There are also a few interesting whites made in the region, not least from local grape Albillo Real amongst many others. One to watch.

Viura - Alternative name used in Rioja and other bits of northern Spain for the Macabeo grape.

Xarel.lo - White grape native to Catalunya, famous as being one of the main three sparkling wine grapes in Penedès. These days there also seems to be more and more Xarel.lo produced as table wine. Often grown and made in sustainable, low-intervention ways these table wines can be very interesting, as they combine good acidity with complex, textural mouthfeel and moderate to low alcohols. There is also a burgeoning pét-nat scene.

Yecla - Medium sized DO in torrid SE Spain that on the face of it doesn’t seem to be much different from neighbouring Jumilla (and northern Alicante). Certainly chunky reds from Monastrell are the order of the day, with bodegas such as Castaño and La Purísima making a good fist of it for fair prices.

Zamora - Unassuming province in western Spain, home to 3 wine DOs, including Tierra del Vino de Zamora (along with Toro and Arribes). This DO is named after the local county “Tierra del Vino” which despite the name is today unfortunately is a shadow of its former self, having only around 675ha planted. The main grapes are Tempranillo for reds and Malvasía Castellana for whites, with Bodegas Viñas del Cénit possibly the most well known and now heading in an interesting trajectory with José Manuel Benéitez at the helm.