This design is for personal and non-commercial use only.

<60 Fast Pack (version 2.0) Instructions                

by Matt Kirk

December, 2013

Note: A limited number of pre-sewn packs are available here.

Introduction:

The following pattern and instructions are based on a backpack that has served me well for four years and 4000 miles. My original pack accompanied me on many treks including thru-hikes of the BMT, MST and AT. The current design has been revised to make the pack more adjustable and comfortable for a greater range of body shapes and sizes.

I designed and developed this pack starting in 2009 to fill a need that wasn’t being met (and in my opinion, still isn’t) by other packs on the market: a solution for efficiently carrying an ultralight overnight load with quick access to food and gear on the go.

This pack should essentially be the last component to a base weight well under ten pounds. Unlock your potential to move fast, light and free. Please feel free to use the following information and pattern for your own personal and non-commercial DIY endeavors. Happy trails!

Multimedia and Online Support:

For the latest version of this pack design, click here.

For a video tutorial on the design and use of this pack, click here.

For a video tutorial on custom fitting pre-made pack components, click here.

For an interactive forum with FAQ and feedback on the use of this pack, click here.

For an interactive forum with FAQ and feedback on the construction of this pack, click here.

Pack Specs:

Volume

approx. 1550 cu. in. (25 L)

Weight

approx. 10 oz. (284 g)

Max Load

approx. 20 lbs. (9 kg)

Materials:

  • Pattern sheet (to scale)
  • 1 yd. nylon mesh fabric (61” roll width)
  • 14 yd. nylon grosgrain ribbon (⅞” width or greater, depending on mesh)
  • 2 ft. ¾” sew on loop fastener strip AKA Velcro (loop side only)
  • 2 linelocs
  • 1 yd. ¼” flat nylon draw cord
  • 1 yd. ¾” flat nylon webbing
  • 1 buckle, ¾” (w/ whistle, one side non-adjustable)
  • 1 buckle, ¾” (both sides adjustable)
  • 1 yd. coil zipper material
  • 4 zipper sliders (compatible with above zipper material)
  • 20 cable ties (30 lbs. minimum tensile strength)
  • 1.5 yd. 3/32” shock cord
  • 3 small cord locks (for 3/32” shock cord)
  • 1 mini carabiner
  • 1 ft. ¾” peel and stick hook fastener AKA Velcro (hook side only)

Procedure:

Disclaimer: this is the second time that I’ve drafted a pattern with instructions for a sewing project, so hopefully it makes sense. Think through each step and don’t be afraid to improvise.

NOTE: figures in document show 1” grid pattern.

  1. In addition to the materials listed above, you will need a good pair of fabric scissors, measuring tape, a pair of scissors to cut paper, a 100+ yd. spool of 100% polyester, or nylon thread and a sewing machine.

  1. In order to maximize the use of the fabric, cut pattern sheet into three panels (fig. 1) :
  1. 21” x 13” panel containing pieces A, B and D
  2. 17.5” x 1.5” panel containing piece C
  3. 17” x 8” panel containing pieces E and F

  1. Lay 1 linear yd. of mesh fabric flat onto a cutting surface. Arrange and cut out two copies of the above panels and three 28” x 10” back panels in an optimal cutting configuration (fig. 2). NOTE: Save scraps to cut two additional D pieces (step 23).

  1. Cut out two E pieces (10” x 8”) from the mesh. These are the outside pockets for the pack body. Steps 4-12 will cover the construction of the pack body.

 

  1. Cut four 11” lengths of grosgrain. Fold and sew ribbon over the raw 10” edges of each E piece. Tuck and sew 0.5” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 3).

  1. Sew the finished 10” edge of an E piece to a back panel 2” above and parallel to its 10” edge using a topstitch (fig. 4). Repeat for the second E piece on another back panel.

  1. Sew all three back panels together using a topstitch along the 28” edges so that the E pieces are on the inside. IMPORTANT: Make sure to sew the 8” edges of the pockets with these seams! Take another pass with the sewing machine over each seam and trim (fig. 5).

  1. Cut three 29” lengths of grosgrain. Fold and sew ribbon over each seam edge. Remember to tuck and sew 0.5” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 6).

  1. Lay back panels flat so that 28” seams are arranged parallel to one another, equal distance apart and pockets balanced on each side (fig. 7). Keeping panels flat in this configuration, sew the top end (farthest above the pockets) closed with a top stitch to make a bag. Take another pass with the sewing machine.

  1. Cut one 16” length of grosgrain. Fold and sew ribbon over this seam edge. Remember to tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 8).

  1. Cut one 31” length of grosgrain. Sew ribbon over the raw edge of the mesh on the other (open) end of bag. Go all the way around, but remember to tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 9).

  1. Pull the bag inside-out, this is the outside of the pack body with the open end on bottom.

  1. Cut out two A pieces, two B pieces and two C pieces from the mesh. These are the shoulder straps. NOTE: the pattern is for the left strap and gets flipped for the right strap. Steps 13-23 will cover the construction of the shoulder straps.

  1. Cut two 51” lengths of grosgrain. Fold and sew ribbon from one end of the top to the other all the way around the raw edge of both A pieces. Remember to tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 10).

  1. Cut two 5” lengths of grosgrain. Fold and sew ribbon from one end of the top across to the other on both A pieces. Remember to tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying. Take another pass with the sewing machine.

  1. Cut sixteen 2” lengths of grosgrain. Fold and sew two strips of ribbon on each short edge of both C pieces. Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying.

  1. Sew six 2” lengths of grosgrain on each of the two C pieces as shown in the pattern to create a “daisy chain”. Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying. Tack each strip in the middle (fig. 11). Trim as necessary.

  1. Cut six 19” lengths of grosgrain. Fold and sew two strips of ribbon on each long edge of both C pieces. Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying .

  1. Fold and sew one 19” length of grosgrain around the round edge of each B piece (fig. 12).

  1. Cut two 5” lengths of grosgrain. Sew one strip of ribbon on the top flat edge of each B piece. Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying.

  1. Top stitch piece B to piece C to form strap pocket. The “daisy chains” should be facing out on the inner end of each strap pocket (fig. 13) NOTE: be sure to have one left and one right strap pocket (flip one of the two B pieces before sewing).

  1. Top stitch each strap pocket (pieces B & C) to each strap (piece A) to finish pocket. (fig. 14). NOTE: be sure to have one left and one right strap (flip one of the two A pieces before sewing).

  1. Cut two 12” lengths of loop fastener strip and tack ends of each strip together to form a loop. (fig. 15).

  1. Sew each loop fastener strip onto each strap where shown on pattern. Attach strips so that loop side is facing up on pocket side of each strap. Be sure to tack where shown on pattern, leaving middle of attachment unstitched (fig. 16).

  1. Cut two 4” lengths of grosgrain. Fold each strip of ribbon in half long ways and pass halfway through the fastener end of a lineloc. Undo fold on ends and singe ends of ribbon (w/lighter). Tuck ends in on each other and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to form loop (fig. 17).

  1. Tack grosgrain with linelocs to the bottom outside edge of each shoulder strap (A piece) where shown on pattern (fig. 18). NOTE: make sure lineloc is oriented correctly (facing down) before sewing.

  1. Cut two 18” lengths of flat nylon draw cord. Singe both ends of each cord (w/lighter). Tie a loop on one end of each cord with an overhand knot. Pass the other end of each cord through a lineloc (fig. 19).

  1. Cut one 3” length of of ¾” nylon webbing. Singe each end (w/lighter). Pass webbing through fastener of non-adjustable piece of ¾” buckle. Tuck ends in on each other and sew 0.2” of webbing on each end to form loop (fig. 20).

  1. Cut one 9” length of of ¾” nylon webbing. Singe each end (w/lighter). Fold 0.5” of one end over and sew to form a “stopper” for the adjustable end of buckle. Attach adjustable piece of ¾” buckle (w/whistle). Fold 0.5” of other end of webbing twice over on itself. Sew to hide raw end and to form a loop (fig. 21). Note: make sure to leave enough of a hole in this loop to pass a cable tie through.

  1. Cut one 16” length of grosgrain. Starting from each end, fold and sew ribbon over the top of each shoulder strap (A piece) to connect them.  Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 22). Note: make sure to conjoin shoulder straps in proper orientation.

  1. Attach a cable tie around the center of the loop fastener strip on each shoulder strap. Make it adjustable by passing it between the stitches, but not through the mesh. Cinch and trim each tie, but keep it loose enough so the cable tie loop can still slide up and down along each strip (fig. 23).

  1. Cut out four D pieces from the mesh. Note: there are only two allotted spaces for the D piece on the yard of mesh fabric, but there should be scrap pieces big enough to cut two additional pieces. Steps 32-38 will cover the construction of the hip belt.

  1. Cut two 12” lengths of ¾” nylon webbing. Make sure to singe (w/lighter), tuck and sew 0.2” of webbing on each end to prevent fraying. Tack each length of webbing to a D piece where shown on the pattern (fig. 24). NOTE: flip one D piece so that you have a left and right hip belt.

  1. Cut two 2” lengths of grosgrain. Tack each piece to the mesh and webbing over your last stitches (this will sandwich the mesh and reinforce this important seam). Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 25).

  1. Cut two 9” lengths of the 8mm coil zipper material. Pull zipper material apart so that there are four strips. Using a top stitch, sew each strip in correct position on the four D pieces as shown on pattern (figs. 26 & 27). Take another pass with the sewing machine. NOTE: be sure top coils are facing in and on opposite end of your topstitch and be sure to flip a raw D piece to make sure you have a left and right.

  1. Attach a single pull zipper slider to each zipper strip to unite two D pieces together. Slider pull should be facing in when D pieces are on top of one another. Make sure zipper is in zipped position at the apex beside the webbing on pattern before sewing. Sew the coils on the ends together. Trim and singe the ends of the zipper (fig. 28).

  1. Cut two 30” lengths of grosgrain ribbon. Flip conjoined D pieces around so the slider pull is facing out (right side out). Sew around the rest of the perimeter (minus zipper). Now fold and sew ribbon around the rest of the perimeter (minus zipper) to complete pocket. Tuck and sew 0.2” of ribbon on each end to prevent fraying (fig. 29).

  1. Attach ¾” buckle (both sides adjustable) to webbing straps of each hipbelt pocket.

  1. Cut two 7” lengths of the 8mm coil zipper material. Pull zipper material apart so that there are four strips. Using a top stitch, sew each strip in correct position on the two F pieces as shown on pattern. Steps 39-41 will cover the construction of the two (optional) accessory pockets. NOTE: be sure top coils are facing in and on opposite end of your topstitch.

  1. Attach a single pull zipper slider unite strips together on each of the two F pieces. Keeping the pocket inside out (zipper slider facing in). Sew the remaining raw edges of each pocket closed taking an additional pass over the zipper coils to make a stopper on each end for the slider (fig. 30).

  1. Zip open the zipper and pull the pocket right side out. CONGRATULATIONS, you have finished sewing all the components for the pack. Now it’s time to custom fit and tie the components together (fig. 31).

Fitting and Final Touches:

The big idea is to custom fit the shoulder straps, hip belt and accessory pockets of your pack using cable ties (30 lbs. minimum tensile strength). For many, this will be a one time adjustment, but you will also be able to remove the cable ties and readjust. You can sew the components together rather than tie them if you prefer.

NOTE: make sure to thread cable ties around the grosgrain on the pack and not just the mesh to ensure a strong attachment point.

  1. You will need measuring tape, a pair of scissors, or pliers and it is also recommended that you have a file (or sanding paper) to smooth out the nubs of each cable tie.

  1. To determine the width of the shoulder straps along the top grosgrain strip of the pack, measure the distance between each trapezius midpoint on your body. Do this by reaching over your head with both hands holding the measuring tape. Hold the end of the tape at the midpoint of one trapezius muscle and slide the tape taut over to the other.

  1. Take this measurement and divide it by two. Subtract 2” from this number. This is the suggested distance from the center point from the top of the pack to the inside edge of the shoulder strap. (EXAMPLE: the distance between my trapezius midpoints is 7”, so 7/2 - 2 = 1.5; I need to attach the inside edge of each strap 1.5” from the center point).

  1. Before attaching the shoulder straps, determine how much (if any) you need to take in each strap. Do this by holding the end of the measuring tape at the apex of your shoulder and sliding the tape taut and down over the front of your chest to the approximate level to where you want the opening of the strap pocket to be.

  1. Subtract this number from 12. If the difference is positive, this number is the suggested amount to take in each shoulder strap in inches. If zero or negative, do not adjust length of strap, skip to step 7. (EXAMPLE: my ideal measurement is 10”, so 12 - 10 = 2; I need to take in 2” on each strap.)

  1. If you need to take in any length on the shoulder straps, use the following directions. If not, skip to the next step. Fold/roll each strap in the same direction from the top down as far as determined in step 5. Be sure not to twist the conjoining grosgrain strip. Keep straps folded in this position for the next step.

  1. Carefully slide a cable tie underneath the top grosgrain strip of the pack at the appropriate location from the center point (as determined in step 3) and through each strap. Also be sure to thread the tie through the mesh of each fold (if applicable). Attach a cable tie at each of the edges and middle of both shoulder straps.

  1. To determine the placement of the hipbelt, measure your torso length by reaching around your back and holding the end of the measuring tape to the top of the back of your hip. Slide the tape taut with your other hand and pull it up to the apex of your shoulder.

  1. Take this measurement in inches and subtract 3”. This is the suggested measurement down from the top of the pack body to attach the top of the hip belt. Before attaching hip belt, be sure to complete the waist measurement and possible adjustment (below). NOTE: You should have at least 8” of pack body below this attachment point in order for the pack to close properly. In other words, maximum torso length for this pack is 22”.

  1. Measure your waist by wrapping the measuring tape where you want the hip belt to wrap around your body. NOTE: If your waist measurement is less than 38” (the current minimum measurement for the pack), you will need to adjust the hip belt. If not, skip the next step.

  1. If less than 38” waist, subtract your measurement in inches from 38. Divide this number by two, fold each belt pocket in by this amount. (EXAMPLE: my waist measurement is 31”, so (38 - 31)/2 = 3.5; I need to fold each hip belt in about 3.5”).

  1. Make necessary adjustments and slide a cable tie through the back of the pack around the vertical grosgrain divider and back out and through the grosgrain on the hip belt. Do this for an evenly spaced top/bottom/middle connection point for each hip belt pocket.

  1. Take ¼” flat draw cord (attached to lineloc on shoulder straps) and thread end of each cord through the vertical grosgrain divider of the pack body directly above the top attachment point of each hip belt pocket and through the loop of cord to connect it to the pack body. Reattach cord to lineloc on straps. Optional: tie an overhand knot as a “stopper” for each end so it won’t accidently pull out through the lineloc.

  1. Cut 1 yd. of 3/32” shock cord. Lay the pack flat. Measure at least 2” down from the bottom attachment point of each hip belt to determine where to thread the shock cord horizontally through the mesh of the pack body to close the bottom opening of the pack. Make sure to start and finish the shock cord at the grosgrain divider on the back of the pack. Run a toggle through and tie the ends of the shock cord together.

  1. Clip a mini carabiner to the grosgrain strip (handle) conjoining the two shoulder straps. Clip the shock cord from the bottom opening of the pack to this carabiner.

  1. Cut two 8” lengths of 3/32” shock cord. For both lengths of cord: tie one end through the grosgrain edge adjoining the shoulder strap and opening of the strap pocket. Thread the other end through the mesh below the grosgrain opening of the pocket. Tie this end to the grosgrain edge on the other side of the shoulder strap and opening of the strap pocket. Gather a loop at a preferred point along the threaded shock cord, run a toggle through the shock cord and tie an overhand knot to keep it in place.

  1. Fill your pack (ideally with the gear, food and water you would realistically carry) and put it on. Determine the most comfortable attachment point for the sternum strap on each shoulder strap’s “daisy chain.” Use a cable tie to attach each end of the sternum strap to the daisy chain.

  1. Optional: use four or more cable ties to secure the accessory pockets at a point at or above your shoulders. (This is a good location for a device such as a SPOT tracker, which will have a better signal at the top of the pack). You may also choose to attach these pockets at any other location on the pack that suits your needs.

  1. Optional: cut and attach the ¾” peel and stick hook fastener to containers such as 35mm plastic film canisters (usually available for free at photo developing stores). These containers can attach securely to the loop on each shoulder strap and conveniently house your water treatment, salt tablets, first aid, or other items.

 

  1. Before trimming the extra lengths of straps and cord, be sure to test out your pack by wearing it for a few hikes/runs. Make adjustments as needed and then trim your pack. Happy trails!