UPPER WEST SIDE STORY

By: Rehmat Sakrani, Belinda Wong and Alicia Manjila

The History of the Upper West Side:

        The Upper West Side was solely occupied by the Munsee Indians until the Dutch immigrants settled the area in the mid seventeenth century. Tensions steadily grew between the two group until ultimately the Dutch temporarily halted their expansions of settlements in 1650 when the two groups engaged in warfare and the Munsee Indians conducted raids on the Dutch Settlements.

Initially the Dutch settlement was mostly made up of farmland and rural landscapes. The region became a large producer of tobacco at the beginning of the eighteenth century. When commerce began to increase Bloomingdale Road was built in 1703 and it ran from 23rd street up to 114th street. The neighborhood however remained isolated, and this isolation is what attracted the wealthy who sought a place to build large estates within proximity of the crowded downtown area. Throughout the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries the neighborhood was where the most ambitious homes were built surrounded by farmland. By mid-nineteenth century however the area became diversified and certain parts were lower class than before. The Hudson River Railroad which ran along the river bank soon reached the area bringing with people from all socioeconomic classes. Furthermore, with the creation of Central Park squatters were pushed west into the Upper West Side. As a result, parts of the neighborhood became squatter’s housing, boarding houses, and taverns. The neighborhood remained mostly rural despite its growing metropolitan environment. At this time Bloomingdale road also was renamed Broadway and connected with Broadway from downtown at 59th street. Today evidence of this connection is seen in the change in angle of Broadway at 59th street with respect to the rest of the grid. The transformation of this main and geographically central road was symbolic of and directly correlated with the transformation of the Upper West Side neighborhood.  

        The late nineteenth century brought the gentrification of the Upper West Side, spurred by the Columbia University’s relocation to the north end of the region in Morningside Heights on land that had previously been the grounds of the Bloomingdale Asylum. The different avenues running through the neighborhood from north to south began to take on their own characteristics. Columbus Avenue was considered the commercial throughway of the neighborhood. Amsterdam was where low rent housing arrangements could be found. Riversdale was known for its wealthy and stately residences. The West End was characterized as a quiet neighborhood. Broadway mostly consisted of hotels and vacant lots owned by developers who were waiting for economic boom.

The West End, as it was then referred to, became truly urbanized upon the completion of the subway system in 1904. No longer was the neighborhood built around the idea of homeowner building and rural landscapes, but rather on the concept of apartment housing. The first appearances of high rise buildings in the Upper West Side began in 1910. The creation of Lincoln Center expanded the bounds of the neighborhood to 59th street; previously West End included only up to 65th street.  Residential projects and Riverside Park in Riverside were formed on the grounds of old rail yards. Today the region between 96th street and 110th street is still referred to as Bloomingdale in some contexts. This neighborhood is where the relocated Columbia University and the Cathedral of Saint John the Divine can be found. It was also once the location of one of the wealthiest houses ever to be built in New York City, particularly in Manhattan; The Schaw mansion is the name of this house but it no longer exists. The area used to be referred to asylum hill because the Bloomingdale asylum was once there.

During the fifties and sixties, the Upper West Side became more culturally and demographically diverse. As a result, liberal values were more socially accepted in the area and a bohemian attitude was adopted by many.  As the rest of the city became ever more urbanized, the Upper West Side managed to retain a sense of community and neighborhood. This vibe attracted artists and writers as well as young families who sought low rent housing. In the eighties a culture of wealth was once again popular and as a result the neighborhood was renewed to modern version of its former rural glory. This meant that many of the grand old buildings and structures in the area were renovated and the wealthy New Yorkers moved in.

The Culture of the Upper West Side:

        The Upper West Side is the go to neighborhood for Hollywood to shoot their New York City neighborhood sceneries. Its greenery has been featured in classic movies and sitcoms such as You’ve Got Mail and Seinfeld and has even become well known as the luxurious residential area of Manhattan. Enclosed by Riverside Park on the left and Central Park on the right, the Upper West Side has a plethora of families pushing baby strollers and walking their pets on the weekends. Although the Upper West Side has been home to many New Yorkers over the decades, it has also been the location of passed down family owned delis and neighborhood businesses. Emporiums such as Barney Greengrass have not only catered to locals for nearly a century, but have also catered to Hollywood kings such as Alfred Hitchcock. Barney Greengrass is just one of the longstanding businesses that brings together people around the world of all generations to enjoy the same New York delicatessen classic as it was when it first opened.

Aside from being the suburban escape from Manhattan’s skyscrapers in the south, the Upper West Side is home to many of New York City’s world renowned cultural hotspots. The American Natural History Museum, Beacon Theatre, and the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts have attracted tourists to take the 1, 2, or 3 trains uptown to visit and to experience New York in celebration of the arts and history. With such a rich environment for art and music to grow, the Upper West Side has fostered numerous young artists, performers, and dreamers throughout the years and enriched not only their lives but also their minds. Today, the Upper West Side is the urban sanctuary for aspiring young adults as it was a century ago. The lively yet cozy neighborhood caters to everyone from growing families to persevering artists within its green boundaries with impeccable architecture.

        With quiet streets lined with trees, the Upper West Side is home of some of the most classic and modern residential architecture today. From brownstone apartments to luxury co-ops, there is never a compensation for beauty in the edifices of its buildings. Taking a stroll through these streets can transport anyone back to their childhood neighborhood or their dream neighborhood all tucked into the upper corner of New York City.

The Arts and Landmarks of the Upper West Side:

        The Upper West Side not only has history and culture, but it has landmarks that act as documentation. We started off on the intersection of Broadway, Central Park West, Central Park South (59th street), and Eighth Avenue, also known as Columbus Circle. At first, this landmark was planned to be the entrance of Central Park by Frederick Law Olmsted. However, when William Eno designed the circle, that idea was tossed. Instead, this circle was created and a monument dedicated to Christopher Columbus was placed right in the center.

Erected in 1892, this monument was made to honor the 400th anniversary of Columbus’ voyage to America. This marble statue was created by Gaetano Russo and is decorated with bronze arrows that represent the three ships: Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria. At the base of the column, there is a statue of the winged boy, holding a globe, signifying and paying homage to global exploration.

Our second stop was the New York Society for Ethical Culture Hall. The New York Society of Ethical Culture was founded in May of 1876 by Dr. Felix Adler. The goal of this society was to practice their ethical and religious beliefs in a way that would help bring social justice to all. Two of their most successful ventures were the establishment of District Nursing Service and the founding of The Workingman’s School, the first free Kindergarten in the United States. When we went to visit the Culture Hall, we saw a sign that read, “Women’s rights are human rights” and that just goes to show that this society continues to fight for issues up until now, every single day, and for every single person. On the outside, the building has engraved, “Dedicated to the ever increasing knowledge and practice and love of the right.” Indeed, they are dedicated to making sure every person gets the same respect and love that we all deserve.

The third landmark we explored was Lincoln Center. Built in 1962, in the Lincoln Square area, Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts serves three primary roles: it is the world’s lead presenter of extraordinary artistic programming, the national leader in arts and education as well as community relations, and it is the manager of the Lincoln Center campus. As it spans an extensive 16.3 acres arts complex, the Lincoln Center Theater is also known by many. The organization observes the center’s founder John D. Rockefeller, they rule by the motto that the arts are “not for the privileged few, but for the many.” They make an effort to keep prices low and its doors open to all.

We also visited the American Folk Art Museum. It was founded in 1961 and differentiates itself from the many other museums in New York City by displaying works by artists who are considered self-taught and have perfected their craft through practice rather that formal instruction. This museum is also free of charge to visit. It's small and usually has thematic display. When we visited the display, the theme was post mortem and afterlife.

        Our next stop was Tavern on the Green. Located in Central Park, Tavern on the Green gained its fame after its use in the iconic New York classic movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Designed and built in the 1870, Tavern on the Green was originally used to house the sheep that grazed in Sheep’s Meadow. Since 1934, it was converted to a restaurant and cafe, serving locals and officials fine American cuisine.

After visiting Tavern on the Green, we went to Beacon Theatre. Built in 1929, the theatre was donned as the “older sister” of Radio City Music Hall. This theatre was made to serve as a cultural location for musical productions, drama, the Opera, and movies. It was designed by Walter Ahlschlager in an art deco style. Since its opening, the theatre has hosted numerous performances from musical legends of all genres. Since 1989, the concert hall has hosted the annual spring concert series held by the Allman Brothers, called “The Beacon Run.”

Beacon Theatre Interior
Source: NY Times

Another notable place we visited was The New York Historical Society Hall.  It was founded in 1804 and thus is the oldest museum in New York City. This society aims to explore history from social, political, and cultural lenses within New York City. It holds Art and History exhibitions. Their collection notably includes a vast amount of the Hudson River School paintings.

As we worked our way through the Upper West Side we then visited the American Museum of Natural History. Founded in 1869, this museum has been the scientific and cultural environment for the exploration and discovery of our natural world. They contain over 45 exhibits and scientific collections, as well as a library and a planetarium. Their mission statement is “to discover, interpret, and disseminate -- through scientific research and education -- knowledge about human cultures, the natural world, and the universe.”

Barney Greengrass Front
Source: Rehmat Sakrani

Lastly, before we ended our day of exploration for the Upper West Side, we made sure to visit Barney Greengrass. If you’re wondering what that is, it’s one of the oldest food spots in town. Since 1908, it has been given the title, “The Sturgeon King” and is a local favorite. In fact, Barney’s has often been voted as the city’s favorite deli. This deli never fails to disappoint as it has been passed down from generation to generation and is family owned. Their traditional fish specialties have not changed over a century yet they turn hearts warmer with their delicious food.

Overall, with this project we were able to learn a lot about the Upper West Side. There are many monumental places celebrating art such as the Beacon Theatre and preserving our history such as the American Museum of Natural History as well as the Historical Society. The Upper West Side is truly a remarkable area of New York City and displays New York City culture in a way like no other. From the Met Opera to celebrating Columbus’ life, the Upper West Side truly encompasses it all.

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