Contents

Resources: Manuals, parts, services

ThumperTalk is the definitive forum for the CRF230F

Ramz has the original dedicated CRF230F site dating back many years now

Special note on “BTR” (bajatrailrider). BTR is frequently cited because he owns and maintains a fleet of CRF230F’s and other bikes in a tough environment. Among many dozens of other bikes, BTR owned several XR400R’s for over 20 years. Currently he rides heavily-modified CRF230F’s and CRF250F’s thousands of miles each year. Literally, a couple to 7 days per week year round. And he rides many Baja visitor’s bikes including the European race bikes. This experience level provides a unique perspective on what works and what lasts. You can search for “BTR” with Control-F and see one of his builds here.

Frickin’ Jim CRF230F Mods is an encyclopedic list of all known mods

"My recommendations" goes through every single component on the bike and explains why or why not modded
Videos: see index in Frickin’ Jim build

CRF230F Owner’s Manual PDF (Australia)

CRF230F Service Manual PDF (2003-2013)

Standard torque values: Section 1, page 12
Troubleshooting: Section 22. (See also Troubleshooting section.)

CyclePedia CRF230F Service Manual Kindle $25

CRF150F service manual PDF post

Parts schematics

PartsFish 2008 CRF230F
PartZilla 2008
RMAM

Should you use OEM parts?

Yes, with occasional exceptions.

Honda puts OEM parts on tens of thousands of bikes. Honda spare parts come through the same supply chains that supply Honda factories. The parts are very good because if they are not very good then the warranty claims would be extremely expensive for Honda.

Honda and your dealer want a continuing relationship with you, and they have a large incentive to protect their brand’s reputation. Any aftermarket warranty is a joke. This is why I run OEM with rare exceptions: JXG

Examples confirmed by BTR comparative testing: Brake pads, fork seals, rear suspension bearings

Vendors

Bruce's Suspension Bruce is the guru of CRF230F fork mods and is very responsive and helpful

Inexpensive damping rod fork mods are very popular: see below
US dealer for Hagon shock: see below

LT Racing suspension tuning with CRF experience
CrfsOnly brings together many of the upgrade parts for the CRF230F

Engine work

Engines Only big bore kits and Outlaw exhaust system: “Frank with Engine Only company specializes in the 230’s and other small Honda engines. So the other guys would likely end up using his parts. No reason not to use the guy that knows these and has done 100’s of them.” post
SW Airflow Services for CRF230F head work: post
Miller Vintage Cycle cams and complete engine upgrades. Note this and this on problems.
Hlebo may be inactive. Be sure to confirm before sending anything.

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2Wii3UK (fixed 27 October, 2 June; 14 April; 20 March 2019)

Tools and techniques

JIS Screwdrivers “J.I.S.(Japanese Industrial Standard) tips are slightly different than those Phillips tips typically found in the U.S. All Phillips screws are not the same. If you experience cam-outs, or find that you are ripping and damaging screwheads, you are probably using a US Phillips screwdriver, when you should be using a JIS screwdriver. As JIS screws become more popular, the best way to reduce cam-outs and/or ripping out screwheads, is to purchase JIS screwdrivers.” I like the Hozan set: 1 each of JIS No. 00 (D-530-75), JIS No. 0 (D-540-100), JIS No. 1 (D-550-100), and JIS No. 2 (D-555-100) Amazon

PB Tools exceptional hex wrenches Amazon post

INNOVA 3612 Compression Tester: see Compression Testing for details

Soda blasting for $20 post

How To Make Your Own Dirtbike Gasket https://www.dirtbikes.com/rick-sieman-make-dirtbike-gaskets/

3-D Printed and Custom-Manufactured Parts

3-D printed parts: GrinP Post

Ignition switch one-finger toggle
Fork bumpers protect the fork leg bottoms from rocks
Suspension linkage cover protects against gravel rash

Custom-manufactured parts:

XR400 forks: Conversion bearing relocating adapter
XR250 shock external reservoir bracket

19 April 2020 section started

Philosophy of the CRF230F: “Miles of smiles”

“Our old-tech bikes are a marvel of enduring simplicity and function” - Woodsryder post

“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values

Videos. When modified, the CRF230F is known as a formidable singletrack machine. Here are some examples of riding CRFs

Baja: higher speed singletrack plus steep and loose hillclimbs

“I have a Trials bike (Montesa 250cc 2T), a CRF250X (set up for PNW trails), and a modified XR200R (full Powroll 218, disc brakes, lightened, USD forks, etc), and each has performance that suits some types of terrain and riding styles better than others.

All three have Trials Competition tires so traction is equalized leaving weight, suspension, chassis geometry, and power delivery.

If I ride typical open trails the X is my choice, but it sucks on tight technical single track and is not a good riding experience.

For tight technical single track my choice is the Trials bike but it is tiring for trail riding of any distance and doesn't have the suspension for high speeds.

The XR218 is the best of both worlds; a shorter wheelbase than the X, weight between the X and Trials bike, good suspension, and tractable power delivery. So, even with the differences between a 230 and a XR200, a properly set up and lightened 230 could do the same." (post)

“For slow short tight technical work the small chassis is a benefit. For fast long open work the small chassis is a detriment. Since 80% of our riding is slow short tight technical work it works for us. No bike will do everything right. It's all a compromise. When we ride we almost never stand up. We ride mostly sitting and/or hovering just over the seat. If we stand up it is just to stretch out a bit. The way we ride you must stay tucked in and keep your CG low and centered. If I needed a more open cockpit I would likely be riding differently and likely have a bigger bike like an XR250.

My CRF230 makes more torque right off idle than the old 265 did in the low-mid area; it is just like a little diesel. It cares not what gear you are in and is so forgiving it is a bit silly. It reminds me of a miniature XR600 in terms of the engine's forgiving nature. If I miss a gear change and come to a tough section with too little engine speed I simply hit the gas and it chugs away. - VortecCPI post

“XR200... CRF230... These two engines are brothers from the same mother... Mike Coe told me Honda came to him during CRF230 engine development and asked him what he had learned over all his years of working with the XR200 engine. He said Honda listened and incorporated a lot of his ideas into the new engine.” - VortecCPI post

“So with a temporary lapse of reason I went and bought a KTM 450.. and then both boys decided they needed to be all extreme and now the air cooled stuff wasn't good enough.. KTM went to oldest boy... Got the younger an rm125 since he was now following travis pastrana on Instagram... And I got a yz450 for me... And what a nightmare relapse into insanity that has been!! Weekly rebuilds on the RM... Taking out loans to afford KTM oem parts.. not to mention the added KTM pleasure of needing to break a timing chain every time you want to do rings or a piston... And me learning that yz450s need manhole covers as flywheel weight to stop the cough and abrupt stall in tight woods... Sanity returning to xr level now... The boys now have PLENTY of tool time under their belts and can fix whatever they want to ride... I am beyond sick of all the hassle again... Same reason I went xr before the boys felt like riding... I will keep the YZ so I can puff out my chest and show people my nasty steed if I feel the need...haha... But I am once again looking for more fun and less hassle...” - Mixxer post

“The CRF230, like the XR200, is a bike that just seems to deliver very easy and pleasurable riding. Not too big, not too small, not a lot of power but enough to get you there. Miles of Smiles.” - VortecCPI post

“1/2 the cc's, 10x the fun”

“I’m a new 230F owner who is sharing my first ride impressions and what I think about this bike. My guess is, there are plenty of people who are in my shoes, wondering if a 230F is right for them. Warning: this could get a little long.

First off, I got back into riding about 6 years ago after a 30-year break. I rode and raced in my teens. I’m 6’5” and about 260 lbs, so I’d naturally lean towards a larger bike. Over the last 6 years, I’ve bought an XR600R, an XR400R, an XR200R and XR100R (for my boys), and finally, a WR450F a couple of years ago.

I kept the 400 (which is a restoration project), the 200 (for my youngest son) and the 450 for me. I thought the 450 would be the be all, end all for my needs - single and dual track trails up here in northern Idaho.

The 450, while a nice bike, isn’t all that great for the riding around here. It’s better on faster, more wide open spaces. It’s tall and carries its weight high, and the engine doesn’t lug like a big XR does - I loved both the 400 and 600 for their tractor-like pull. I didn’t love kickstarting the 400 or 600. I want the magic button.

So I spent the past year trying to figure out what my next bike was going to be. I ruled out the KTM’s, Beta’s, Husky’s and other high-priced bikes. I actually preferred an air cooled bike after working on my XR’s. I thought strongly about an AJP PR4 (we have a dealer in Spokane), though I had concerns about parts and the Zongshen engine long-term. The AJP lust did shift my thinking towards a small displacement bike.

I turned my attention toward the CRF230F and the TTR 230. I started reading the forums and blogs, and the CRF had an edge with the aftermarket stuff to make it better and faster. And, my own XR experiences were pleasant.

I watched Craigslist for a while - lots of modded bikes that were at the ceiling or a little beyond what I wanted to spend. I figured I’d be looking at a mid-2000’s model to fit my price range, which means a 10+ year old bike could be a gamble. Fortunately, for every ratted-out looking 230, there was one that was a girlfriend’s/daughter’s/older-adult-bike that was hardly ridden and stock. I found one of those - a 2004, bone stock, and pretty clean. So I bought it a few days ago.

I mounted up a Shinko Trail tire on the back and a new knobby on the front, went to Canfield Mountain and spent a couple of hours getting lost on the network of trails. Canfield, the locals know, has some rocky trails, some mudded and deeply rutted trails, some thick brush and tree cover, logs, and a few trails I would never think about going up or down on my 450.

I was really amazed how this stock, 13 year-old 230 could haul me around! Throttle response was great for a carbureted 223cc engine - I spent most of my time in 1st and 2nd gear, and even in 3rd and 4th, roll-on was tractor-like. It never seemed to bog or hesitate; it pulled without complaint. I stalled it once due to my hesitation early on in the ride, going up a very tight, rutted section. Later on, as I got familiar with it, I trusted it to get up or down wherever I was going.

It is nimble. It feels a little small for me, but not pit-bike small. I will probably find someday that a rear-disc brake might be better in some situations - I rode through some water and didn’t notice any fade. The riding was too slow to really test out the suspension - it worked just fine. I would probably put $$$ into suspension over the engine, if I had to choose between the two. The motor is amazing considering it’s a small, air-cooled 2-valve, carbureted 6-speed. Like I say, ½ the cc’s and 10x the fun of the big bikes.

Am I glad I bought it? Yes - I wish I would have bought one 6 years ago! Would I buy another one? Hell yes! Would I recommend this bike to others (especially people over 6’ tall and over 250 lbs)? Absolutely. I’d recommend it to people who live in wooded, single-track areas (maybe not desert areas if you want to ride fast). I’ve read many comments about the 230 keeping up with the KTM’s and other wood warrior bikes in the gnarly single-track area - I believe it now. It would embarrass the 450-and-up machines.” - post

“I very much identify with the comments about switching over to the 230 from a full on race bike. It took me a long time to swallow my pride and finally embrace the 230. I couldn’t get past the idea of having brand new, top of the line, super fancy KTM’s, Beta’s, Yamaha’s, etc but I wasn’t any faster or safer on these versus my little 230. I can ride the 230 for longer, faster, more control and safer, and go just about anywhere. I wish I had made this transition a long time ago.” - post

How did we get here? History of CRF230F modding

CRF230F evolution page (translated from Japanese)

Thread by The Goat https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1128260-the-coeshow-facts/

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/316911-horsepower-of-230/

Specifications

2003-2007 230F's have 2.2 US gal tank w/ 0.4 reserve

2008+ 230F has 1.9 US gal w/ 0.4 res

“They made tank smaller so they can put a skinnier seat on it, so it feels more flickable...” post

What is the engine output?

“Many people are all wound up with peak HP numbers. It's net torque under the curve and throttle response that gets it done for me.” - VortecCPI? Link?

HP: “A stock CRF230 comes in at just under 18 RWHP.”

CRF230F dyno curve at low altitude shows peaks of 17 KW = 22.8 HP, 22.3 NM torque

https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/1073234-Procom-CDI-Review

27, 17

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/971921-keihin-fcr-32-mx-on-crf-230-any-experience/

Original superposition dyno curve

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/971921-keihin-fcr-32-mx-on-crf-230-any-experience/page-4

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/projects.html

Index to the Off-Road.Com CRF230F Project by Super Hunky

Between 2005 and 2008, Rick “Super Hunky” Sieman, the legendary founder of Dirt Bike Magazine, wrote a series of articles: The Off-Road.Com CRF230F Project. Below is a chronological table of contents with selected quotes.

July 14, 2016: Legendary Dirtbike Journalist Rick Sieman Joins DirtBikes.com! The Mark Twain of dirt bike journalism, Rick “Super Hunky,” Sieman is now a DirtBikes.com contributor. https://www.dirtbikes.com/legendary-dirtbike-journalist-rick-sieman-joins-dirtbikes-com/

Project Honda CRF230F - Part 4 Sidewinder Chain and Gearing

Sep. 01, 2005

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project723.html?printable

Project Honda CRF 230F - Part 16 Q & A and a super project bike

Sep. 01, 2006

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1502.html

2007 Honda CRF230F 2007 Model Information and Specifications

Sep. 01, 2006 https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/review/2007-honda-crf230f-23498.html

Project Honda CRF 230 - Part 17 Bits and Pieces

Oct. 01, 2006

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1508.html

Project Honda CRF230 - Part 18 Getting Good Rear Brake

Nov. 01, 2006

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1515.html

Project Honda CRF230f - Part 20 Q&A

Feb. 01, 2007

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1524.html

Project CRF230 - Part 21 Questions and Answers

Mar. 01, 2007

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1528.html

Rear disk brake

Project Honda CRF230F - Part 22 Taking Care of the Loose Ends

Apr. 01, 2007

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1536.html

Project Honda CRF230F - Part 24 TAKING CARE OF LOOSE ENDS

Jul. 01, 2007

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1549.html

Project Honda CRF230F, Q and A

Dec. 17, 2007

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1570.html

Cable-activated LHRB idea

Project Honda CRF230F: Q and A, Aggressive girl riders, young gear-heads and Aussies all write in

Feb. 04, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1576.html

Project Honda CRF 230F - Tech Questions Answered

Mar. 24, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1579.html

Project Honda CRF230F: Q & A from the Project Honda CRF 230 F

Apr. 14, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1583.html

Project Dirtbike CRF 230F: Comparing the CRF230F and the CRF230L

May. 12, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1584.html

Project Honda 230F More Questions Answered Super Hunky addresses Success and Confusion

Jun. 11, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1585.html

Project Honda CRF230F: Reader Questions Sweating the Small Stuff - Dirtbike Style

Sep. 07, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1598.html

Project Honda CRF230F: Answers and Illustrations

Oct. 09, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1601.html

Project Honda CRF230F: More Reader Questions Answered

Nov. 17, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1605.html

Project Honda CRF230F: Carb Swap: Quite possibly the most important mod you can do

Dec. 11, 2008

https://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/project/project1609.html

DRAFT 5 Feb 2022

Buying a used CRF230F

The CRF230F has been around for a long time with minimal changes and is a very tough bike so many people buy them used.

Don’t buy a beater because it is possible to find barely ridden bikes for good prices.

BTR says: “What I learned is take your time you find the deal -- buy a beater it will be a loser. All the CRF230F’s I bought for me and friends took months to find. As new, 2003/2004, $1200 to 1500. Poor Mike was tired looking for few months so he got a 2006 for $2000. A beater, but he did not care. As he said, well I will build this bike anyway. He is a expert on bike builds. After he built it he had to take it apart many times to change the beater parts that were not seen at time of rebuild.” post

What you are looking for was purchased for family use, the novelty wears off, kids grow up, and they are offered up. Here is an example of a seller who knows the whole short history of the bike. This is the kind of guy you want to meet.

If there is no title, you generally don’t even want to look at the bike. So ask up front if the seller does not say. And make sure it is in the hand of the seller -- not the finance company on newer bikes. (If the title is legal but has simply been lost, a replacement is available at any motor vehicle office.)

Note the title will say “Off-Highway Vehicle.” Be aware that street conversion has gotten more restrictive in most states. Here are options.

Being a dirt bike without an hour meter or odometer, you don’t have any real data to go on. But if it looks flawless outside then it is probably good inside too.

Of course some bikes have not been maintained so you have to exercise due diligence.

If the bike is rougher, more investigation is needed and it helps to have a seller who knows the history of the bike and is forthcoming. The engine is very tough so if it has gotten oil changes and air cleaner cleanings then it is probably good. A good place to start is checking the air filter.

Don’t be afraid to walk away from a beater. There will be more. These bikes are not in short supply.

http://www.bikefinds.com/honda-crf230f is a good site to check because it aggregates CL, eBay, and other sources. Get in the habit of checking it daily, first thing in the morning especially, and you will see leads pop up. Don’t get discouraged if there is not much available. It varies a lot. Save your money and be patient. AZ and SoCal almost always have these bikes listed.

Here is a price graph from BikeFinds showing the bikes it is currently listing. At this time the prices are up, probably because it is riding season.

Above: JXG on 17 and 16 August 2018, with thanks to BTR

Link: http://bit.ly/3171HjU

Street legal: Plating the CRF230F

The 230F is “Off-Highway Only” from birth. This can make it difficult or impossible to plate in many states.

But there are many options. See this page: http://bit.ly/2EbGgEO

What about the CRF250F introduced in 2019?

The long-awaited “upgrade” to the CRF230F arrives in 2019: Ramz.

JXG’s take, early 2019: post

(+/-) Fuel injected: very reliable unless it fails on the trail

(+/-) Four valves: More power, more upgrade potential, more work to adjust

(--) 5 speed transmission has raised concerns, but new powerband needs 6 speed less?

(---) Same old damper rod forks, slightly larger diameter

(----) Same old “horrifying” shock

One important benefit to the 2019 CRF250F.... it has revived interest in the CRFxxxF line and brought new folks into the community.

What about the five speed transmission?

Where does the CRF250F fit in? Ramz: "The weights relate to the intended use of these motos thusly:

CRF230F - primarily technical-single-track (TST) trail riding, with some dirt-road dual sport. Base 233 lbs.
CRF250F - primarily dirt-road dual sport with some TST. +15 lbs - excellent.
CRF250L - primarily dirt-road dual sport with some easy trail riding. +65 lbs - heavy, but the only choice I had.”

For more technical riders who want a base to mod from, there are concerns about the new bike. While it is still early, this post and post by Mixxer lays out the situation...

“CRF250F NOT an UPGRADED or ADVANCED anything / but may be FUN anyways”

“It had to be said....

First off ... I can see the attraction of 4 valve heads and big bore kits... And e-start. [when compared to XRs]

It's fuel injected to meet leaner and leaner emissions standards... Not for any power advantage... Because there isn't a power advantage to FI... And it for sure comes lean from the factory, which means it will need lots of help to come into correct A/FR with any mods at all...

Also... If I still had a dyno with all my FI tuning equipment... After sending the throttle body to my long time friend ,who both owns my last dyno and Sredrum Performance, for a throttle body bore and custom throttle plate (Chris is a machinist/ perfectionist/ gearhead on a level I can't begin to identify with)

I would actually LOVE to dial in every throttle position at every rpm on the whole fuel injection map.... Ultimate control at every rpm point and every throttle opening .... Never opening any carb up... No jet swaps... No gas on shop floor... Don't even get a tool out, get dirty, run into a jet I need but don't have ... Just plain 100% perfection...

BUT .... 99.9% of all Dyno shops have no clue how to map... Just a few WOT runs and a few hapless twists of the 3 stupid potentiometers to further alter a base map that isn't close in the first place is what you get... Unlimited potential for perfection, and no way to get to it....

In all my time tuning , I never found anyone's "mapping" even close... Not even the autotuners...

That's my big problem with FI... I don't own my $18,000.00 FI tuning tool anymore.

The 250F is reasonably priced...

But the engine wasn't made specifically for this application... It's a transplant ... Not particularly light ... Don't know if it's oil cooled or not (like XRs with frame and oil cooler integration) I really like oil cooling setups on air cooled machines... Not much added weight/complexity added... Ya gotta have oil and an oil pump anyways.. why not use the oil as a coolant?!?!!

So the 250F also does NOT come with modern.. well let's face it ... Even quasi modern suspension... My RMX250 is a year past old enough to buy itself a drink this year ... And the new 250f suspension is archaic compared to the suspension on the 22 year old RMX...

250F is

Heavy
Archaically suspended ..
Not advanced on any level ...
Complex/ expensive tuning with FI...
Not a serious off road bike on any off the showroom level..
But neither is our beloved 230..

So I can see the fun and the challenge that people like Guy are chomping at the bit to get after the challenge...

But most of all I can't stand the utter incorrect assumption that this is some sort of advanced evolution of the XR bikes... It isn't even close....

And mostly I'm disappointed in the suspension it's delivered with... I can swap and tune suspension... But I don't enjoy it like motor work... And the trails I prefer to ride have always rewarded the riders with the best suspension over the riders with the most HP... Some trails are like enduro paths.. some are hiking trails that people ride scooters on...

So to some, suspension makes a bigger difference.... I’m good with "modify"... I hate "replace"... And if I'm going to modify suspension, I want perfection... Not a bandaid on a bullet hole for my time and money spent...

Anyways... I can see the interest .. and fun... And challenge... I just take exception to the lunacy about what this bike is and isn't...” - post and post by Mixxer

“I rode a late model (2016+) WR250F: 6 speed big bore 300cc. I would buy one before thinking of the new old CRF250F - BTR post

Rider reports

Happy owner: “I have a 2020 CRF250F and love it” - post

Unhappy owner: “The CRF250F I rode recently had piss poor suspension and wallowed like a fat hound chasing a rabbit. The CRF owner swapped bikes on same terrain and found a friends stock DRZ worked better in the same terrain. Did this indicate the DRZ suspension was superior to CRF? Probably.

“But more important was the honest shared comparison of the two riders.

“And the best part of the lesson was the Honda rider didn't fuss and bitch and spend a fortune on upgraded suspension (he got price estimates) he simply took his research information and purchased a better motorcycle instead of pretending his bike was better at any expense. The CRF may be fine for some riders and be a good fit. Some riders get along fine with them. Just don’t try to pretend they are real dirt bikes” - post

Some things you can do to make the CRF250F better - post

Differences from the CRF230F

Suspension

Forks are larger diameter but still primitive damper rods from the 1970s

Bruce Tripplett is modifying damper rods

Shock is different and unusual length

Engine

EFI instead of carb
Valves adjusted with shims
Paper oil filter instead of centrifugal filter

Transmission

Five speeds instead of 6

Rear disk brake

Why is the spark plug $44? - post

Above: 19 March 2022; 8 August; 14 May; 16 April; 8 February 2020; 24, 21, 20 February 2019 by Ramz, Mixxer and others

Link: http://bit.ly/2TZCOTc

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1401665-250f-with-best-forks-xr400-fix/

[*] Upgrading the CRF250F suspension: XR400 forks, XR350 shock

BTR thread: “Today I started the 250f fix” - 3/8/22

Above: 19 March 2022

Alternatives to the CRF230F?

“Tuscany shock would also be a very good option that is readily available and at a similar price point. The Vonkat is supposed to be very good as well. I wouldn't shy away from the Hagon either. I would also have a think about what you really want to do with the bike. You can get a little crazy and do all kinds of mods to this little bike. It's best to have a game plan before you spend the money twice on upgrades. Personally, I did the Bruce damer rods, Hagon rear, airbox-pipe-jetting, added a light bar, handguards and left it at that. When I started to feel like the bike was holding me back. Instead of dropping more money on mods, I just bought a better bike. - GavMac78 post https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1287276-yss-rear-shock/page/3/

Table is easier to read at this link: http://bit.ly/2GT3Isk

SWM RS300 (2024)? “The SWM RS300 is the star member of a one-bike class. You can call it the missing link of dual-sports. On one side we have elite dual-sport bikes offered by KTM, Husqvarna, Beta and their kind. They are spectacular off-road performers but command a frightening price. On the other side we have playthings like the Honda and Kawasaki 300s. They’re affordable but have very little true off-road capability. In both price and performance, the SWM occupies the vast middle ground virtually alone.” - Dirt Bike Magazine, February 2024: https://www.dirtbike-digital.com/dirtbike/library/item/february_2024/4166088/

What about a modified XR200R? Classic forerunner of the CRF230F but suspension upgrades are needed and see post on overstressing the transmission. And no electric start, which can be a show-stopper for the older rider.

What about an XR250R? The late-90’s air-cooled XR250Rs are fantastic bikes: powerful, comfortable, low weight and sophisticated suspension not found on the stock CRF230F. See Frickin’ Jims review here. The big problem for many riders? No electric start as Jim laments here.

But... a footnote... BTR notes that a ‘96-04 XR250R "Baja" model was sold in Japan with e-start. Major project to convert a US bike, but it could be done if the parts could be obtained somehow. (His friend Mike H. has converted an XR400 to e-start using parts from a 400 quad. Also a big project including crankshaft.)

What about a CRF250X? Piston replacement at low hours (50 to 100?) is a drawback of riding this race bike which is optimized for power not longevity on the trails. Also it is a very tall bike. “Rode a bunch of tight ST yesterday on my XR218 for the first time in a month and it was a stark contrast to my CRF250X on the same trails. The XR218 has similar weight and steering rake to a CRF230F and I was much less tired on the XR, and it was fun rather than work.” post

What about the AJP PR4? Sluggish and quality problems; see review here

What about the KLX250s? My KLX250s with low miles had the responsiveness of a riding mower. I geared it down, otherwise it was unrideable on any kind of rough dirt uphill.

Also they are very heavy, over 300 lbs. Definitely not "flickable" like the CRF230F, CRF150F, and small XRs. More like wallowable. But it was good for exploring dirt roads.

That said, I was always amazed how well it did on occasional narrow technical ST. Again, after gearing it down. But if I dropped it, like to bust a gut picking it up again.

On the other hand, it did not have the power and all-day cruising comfort of a DR650 or similar on rural pavement.

Definitely a 90% pavement DS but more technical than some. JXG post

What about the GPX Moto FSE 250R? “The LXR is kind of the missing link in Chinese bikes. It’s about half way there. The real stand out for me was the nc250 motor. It has run so good without problem that it has changed my mind on what China is able to bring to market these days. On top of that motor parts are very easy to get and are very affordable.

“I decided to pop for the fse250r because of the whole package it offers. Smooth counterbalanced motor that will run all day without complaint. 6 speed transmission that is good off road, but can still get down the highway. Good 3 phase alternator that can power lights and GPS etc. Keyed ignition for security. Electric start is a must/kicker back up. This GPX checks all the boxes for me. It will get a good thrashing this year and we will see how it goes.” - Chadzu post

What about the WR250F? “I rode late model (2016+) WR250F: 6 speed big bore 300cc. I would buy one before thinking of the ‘new’ old CRF250F”

“2012 to 15 have super high idle so they will run. Many eStart ‘wows’ but they always kick start. So those years not for me.

“Get a Seat Concepts, also lower bike one inch for most riders: lowering link, and forks raised in triples

“As reliable as any XR I have had

“Also as reliable as XR400 as our fleet of WRs are no more work to keep running then our 400s. I like the 5 valve myself but the 4 valves 2016 up WR250Fs have no lack of power.” - BTR post and messages

“I have done work on big bore wr250f bikes for others.... very Very VERY high on list of bikes I still want....5 valves / HVP raised floor porting / 290 big bore kit....an absolute giant slayer for torque... Can't beat it in the displacement range…” - Mixxer post

Smaller rider

What about a CRF150F for a small rider?

Specs: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_CRF150F

On older kickstart bikes there are major problems with cases breaking: Adnohguy post, post, post:

2006 and newer are the best; they are the most reliable models.
2005 and older have kick start only and break kick start gears.
No new parts are available to repair them and the cases have to be split open to replace them if you happen to find any used or NOS (new old stock)

Best option for a small rider is 230F with 150F wheels?

BTR: “Useless to build kick start 150f. Glad I didn't do it. Got 230, put on 150f wheels, cr fork, xr rear shock. Ultimate lady bike. 6 speed, stock Estart, no broken kick start gears. Also the most wanted and rode bike for anyone that visits. Bike is a blast to ride, also fun to watch lady out ride the boys.” post

Beta? Look at the Beta 125 RR-S. Have not seen much discussion of this bike (here is one review) but the price point and weight are both low. Could require suspension upgrades for more technical riding.

KX100 modified for trail use? https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/kx100-build-into-a-trail-bike.1059049/page-5#post-32589720

More aggressive bike

What about a 2011 Gas Gas EC250? “I was very particular in looking for a replacement for my 230F, and this bike is by far the closest I could find that's a true upgrade without any real downside. I wanted all the big positives of the 230F (low seat, e-start, low-end grunt, good handling for tight trails, reliability), but an upgrade in the suspension, ergos, and power department (which is where the 230 is severely lacking).” Post and see earlier posts in thread.

Aggressive and skilled rider? The Beta XTrainer is a great bike but the stock forks can be unstable and dangerous even at low speeds (post). Upgrading the forks is needed for serious technical riding (at least for riders over perhaps 190 lbs) and is quite expensive. And if you don’t have the reflexes the 37 HP and low weight will put the hurt to you real quick. Not for beginners, see here.

Husky FE250? 50 state legal and so off-highway capable that Husky does not bother with a pure dirt four stroke as pointed out in a recent Dirt Bike mag (received in July 2018). One problem: Seat height is real high.

YZ250FX? page “What amazing suspension that has! Just point it where you want to go and it doesn't care.” - reader email

What about KTMs, in general? In general, KTMs are race bikes and race bikes emphasize performance (including minimizing weight) over reliability and economical ownership. This thread has many tales of woe. But of course KTMs are wildly popular anyway, partly because they have become status symbols.

What about building a custom hybrid?

What about an XR200R with an eStart CRF230F engine? It’s really good: Post. Note these bikes are very close relatives.

CRF250R MX bike with 230F engine?

“I have been involved with some hybrid builds and have learned that even simple ones will present many unforeseen challenges, and this project is far from simple.

I had both the CRF250 rolling chassis and a complete CRF230 together in my garage looking at the possibility of this same conversion. The list of problems needed to be overcome are numerous but most stem from the fact that the 230 motor is much too tall to fit into the 250 chassis. The carb on the 230 is angled to the right which interferes with the shock reservoir as well as its high mounting on the already too tall motor creating additional clearance issues.

The exhaust exits directly into the frame downtube. The engine centerline to counter shaft sprocket measurement is such that sprocket alignment would be another difficulty. … Carb could be relocated to the left side, I tried that, next issue is the high location of the carb bell vs the air tube coming from the air box.

Once this is overcome then you get to figure out how/where to mount a gas tank over top of an engine that is too tall for the chassis. If you've never attempted a hybrid build you can't grasp all the problems beforehand… These are just some of what I can remember from my attempt of 10+ years ago” - post

Above by JXG and others: 20 April 2020; 26 October; 21, 16 February; 25 January 2019; 4 December; 2 November 2018; 14 August 2018

Link: http://bit.ly/2RcXFR6

What is the problem with race bikes on steep narrow loose trails? Watch this video

Here is a nice illustration in a short video...

Video segment 1. “First I ride the KTM 500 Six Days (sold in Mexico) and as always am impressed by how fast KTMs want to go and how much my butt hurts.

Video segment 2. BTR leads up the slightly loose, steep, and twisting trail on his bored and stroked little red pig. I follow on my uncorked machine with no problem.

Video segment 3. The KTM owner has so much massive power that he bounces off the same trail, causing BTR much amusement.

Then Mike chugs up the same hill on his bored and stroked little red pig.

Different bikes for different conditions and rider goals. The KTM is built to go fast. The modified 230F is built to go slow.”

Above: 8 December 2018 by JXG post

https://thumpertalk.com/search/?&q=weight&type=forums_topic&author=adnohguy&nodes=50&search_and_or=or&sortby=newest

Weight reduction

“Weight is everywhere and weight reduction is taking a little bit from many parts” - Chuck post

Why reduce bike and rider weight?

Good read by GrinP: post

Results from adnohguy, Chuck, and others:

	Ounces	Pounds
CR80/85 fork swap (approx weight)	48.0	3.00	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1270813-reducing-weight-on-the-crf230f-the-list/?do=findComment&comment=14448431
Shorai battery	33.6	2.10	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1237577-is-there-an-established-way-to-build-a-~200lb-crf230-without-a-bbr-frame/?do=findComment&comment=13861384
Sprockets	21.3	1.33	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1256090-save-213-oz-from-swapping-out-stock-sprockets/?tab=comments#comment-14196430
Aluminum rocker	15.0	0.94	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1285881-aluminum-rocker-from-explodee/
Shift / brake pedals	13.5	0.84	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1242966-150r-exhaust-on-230/?do=findComment&comment=13943527
Flywheel	12.8	0.80	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1256212-save-1285-oz-easily-without-a-need-to-rebalance/?tab=comments#comment-14198214
Rear sprocket hardware	11.7	0.73	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1250387-titanium-rear-sprocket-mounting-hardware/
Crankshaft	8.0	0.50	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1215806-cheater/?do=findComment&comment=13585039
Suspension linkage	7.5	0.47	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1259548-loss-of-another-75oz-is-easy/?tab=comments#comment-14257520
Modified stock front brake rotor *	6.6	0.41	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1270813-reducing-weight-on-the-crf230f-the-list/?do=findComment&comment=14448431
Rear brake	5.0	0.31	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1250280-remove-5oz-from-your-230-rear-brake-in-an-hour/
Aluminum snail adjusters	4.5	0.28	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1270813-reducing-weight-on-the-crf230f-the-list/?do=findComment&comment=14448431
Upper engine mounts	4.0	0.25	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1254051-save-4-oz-from-just-the-upper-engine-mounts-alone/?tab=comments#comment-14161910
Rear hub aluminum axle spacers	4.0	0.25	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1250270-rear-hub-aluminum-axle-spacers-completed/?tab=comments#comment-14082619
Front rotor by EBC *	4.0	0.25	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1250141-save-another-49-oz-of-weight-on-a-230-front-wheel/?tab=comments#comment-14080043
XR200 coil	1.7	0.11	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1256634-xr200r-coil-weighs-17-oz-less-than-a-230f/
Bolts	1.0	0.06	https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1256634-xr200r-coil-weighs-17-oz-less-than-a-230f/?do=findComment&comment=14207165
TOTAL	202.2	12.6
* = duplicated component

JXG comments... There are basically three zones in the chart above:

Zone 1. 30 to 50 oz. The fork swap is a big weight savings, but cost me $900. On the other hand I did not do it to save weight. (And I later changed to the XR400R fork.) The battery is not cheap, and I have a lead acid spare which I keep on float / desulfation at least every couple weeks. So I’m not in a hurry to buy a lithium battery.

Zone 2. 10 to 20 ounces. If you are looking to replace worn-out components there may be some payoff in here.

Zone 3. Up to 10 ounces. Can add up. Payoff depends on your goals and what your time is worth and your enjoyment factor of modding.

Bottom line: If you are going to need a new battery anyway, lithium may be the bang for buck opportunity.

Shock Weights table

Getting to 240 lbs post

Chuck post and post

Chadzu reducing CRF230F weight by using, and modding, a XR200R chassis: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1200247-will-a-230-motor-fit-in-a-200r-frame/
Exploring WA (now CL13579) weight reduction of a CRF230F https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/590132-2007-crf230f-weight-loss-program/
My weight reduction thread in the XR80-200 Forum https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/720551-xr200r-weight-reduction/

Tire Weights (2009) post

2022 Updates: Several items here https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1394407-230f-less-weight-ideas/?do=findComment&comment=16507805

Spreadsheet link

Search:

Thread [was] here

Above: 5 February 2022; 3 February 2019; 15 August 2018 by JXG with many thanks to Adnohguy and Chuck

Link: http://bit.ly/2Ox578u

Suspension: Comfort or performance? Mr. Know-It-All speaks

"Younger, more aggressive riders will always prefer stiffer suspension, be it moto, desert or enduro. Why? Because they do not want a wallowing machine that’s too soft to absorb blows at speed. Their fitness and youth allow them to tough it out.

"Riders who are nearing senior citizen discounts at McDonald’s still know how to twist it, but they do this at lower speeds and for a shorter duration.

"I talked to Rodney Smith about this. He said that back when he was winning GNCC events, he ran full motocross-spec suspension because he could deal with the lack of plushness but never wanted his machine too soft when he was attacking.

"Today, Rodney runs an off-road (plusher) setting simply because he’s out to enjoy the ride, and this lets him put in longer trail days.

"So, if most of your riding is off-road, I would valve my machine to be plush but stiff enough to stay up in the stroke. This keeps the machine planted, allows you to attack with some modicum of confidence, but will still rake aside some of the hack that beats you up on the trail.

"Most of the high-end suspension shops can valve it to have a broad range of compression adjustability, so when you hit the moto track, dialing in some additional compression will let you bump and jump. -- Mr. Know-It-All, downloaded January 2022: https://dirtbikemagazine.com/set-up-choices-mr-know-it-all/

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/tuning-the-stock-forks/

Fork upgrade options

September 2018: This section has been rewritten to emphasize that USD (upside-down) cartridge forks are for MX not trail riding and that the best technology for trail riding appears to be the XR400 fork swap: a RSU (right-side up) cartridge. -- JXG

Pictures of stock, CRF150RB and XR400 forks

FIRST UP: If you are not happy with your forks, the first thing to check is sag. If your sag is wrong, your spring rate is wrong. If your spring rate is wrong, the forks are not going to perform even with inverted, nano-tech, cryo-cooled cartridges that incorporate alien technology. The main thing is the spring. Both static and dynamic sag are critical--they must be in harmony or the spring rate is wrong. See What is the range of sag recommendations? for specs.

Quick Test: Hit the brakes. Does your front end dive a lot? If yes, your spring rate may be off. Measure your sag.

Acronyms and terms

DR = damper rod (older tech) damping using drilled orifices

Cartridge = newer damping technology using shim stacks; see anatomy pix

USD = up-side down: fork tubes are at the bottom (newer tech)

RSU = right side up or conventional: fork tubes are clamped at the top (older tech)

Mini bike = not a full-size bike. The CRF230F is a mini bike.

Next question: What kind of riding do you want to optimize for? It matters. Here is why:

“Then along came cartridge forks. Next were up-side down [USD] versions designed to control compression speeds to absorb MX jump landing, just the opposite of the compression speeds needed to absorb sharp edge bumps during trail riding.”

“The modern MX chassis is much more rigid than a steel trail bike chassis and that is important for a smooth ride [at race speeds]. USD forks are also more rigid than normal forks. Mix the two and you have a very harsh trail ride. The mini bike USD forks are not as rigid as full size USDs and work better for trail riding. I have a CRF250X with a twin spar aluminum frame and 47mm Showa USD forks; a very rigid chassis that has a planted feel and is easy to ride fast but stock is brutally harsh on my local trails.” Chuck post

By upgrading the forks, you could turn your trail bike into a race bike.

Upgrades correspond to three eras of technology:

⧫ Damper rod (DR) uses orifices to modulate oil flow for slower riding (60’s technology)

⧫ Cartridge uses shim stacks to modulate oil flow for faster riding on smooth MX tracks (80’s technology)

⧫ USD (upside-down) or inverted forks are more rigid and lighter (reference). Note all USD options are cartridge, but not all cartridge are USD.

Price zones for upgrades

Zone 1: Improve the stock forks
Zone 2: Easy swap to a better damping rod fork
Zone 3: Easy swap to a RSU cartridge Honda fork
Zone 4: Serious swap to a USD cartridge Honda fork
Zone 5: Difficult swap to non-Honda technology

Zone 1: Improve the stock forks

Theme: Big improvements without a lot of work or cost. Most will perceive significant improvements that change their riding experience. Beyond this zone improvements will get expensive and you have to ask: Will I even notice any difference in the riding I do?

1.0 Tune the stock damper rod fork

Cost: Low
Mod time: Hours? Orifice geometry requires brazing / drilling.
Tuning time: Low if you have a specific symptom to fix?
Payoff: Mixed, depends

1.05 BTR budget air spring option: “I just did two more stock 230s with air caps at 2.5 psi. 100% improvement over stock fork. Why only because stock is so bad, but cheap fix.” “ I have done 4 bikes already all owners like it, even me. Of course people will say no air is the best - they’re right. Not when you’re talking stock 230 fork. Remember that this fork is so bad it does not take much to make it better.” - BTR post

Making your own air caps page

1.1 Damper rod cartridge emulator

Cost: $150
Mod time: Two hours? Springs must be pulled and DR’s marked and drilled
Tuning time. JXG comment: I believe that a lot of the emulator potential is lost because buyers like me have no clue how to adjust the variables of the emulator. To adjust the Gold Valve, the springs must be removed. This can be done in the field but it is very different from changing clickers.
Comment: “Emulators are better than stock. I ran them with one factory spring and one bbr spring. Good on hard hits. The damper rod mod by Bruce is better overall, it is position sensitive not speed sensitive. More plush up in the stroke yet stiffer the further it goes down. The emulators would blow all the way through the stroke on a hard landing. Although easy on the wrist when it happened just a little unsettled till it rebounded.” post
Tip: “If I were gonna drill my damper rods for Emulators again, I wouldn't do it the way RaceTech suggests in their directions. I would leave the factory holes alone and drill additional ones in a line up the damping rod to about the halfway point. This will help to increase damping as the fork compresses. Not trying to over complicate things just thinking of issues I've had with my forks that I didn't like and how I'd go about avoiding certain pitfalls. Also, fork oil level is critical to prevent the fork from bottoming, even with super stiff springs.” - Adnohguy post
Payoff: Moderate. Even without tuning the emulators do help.

1.2 Triplett damper rod mods: see Triplett Stock Fork Mod: Excellent performance and price

Cost: $100, must remove, ship, and reinstall the springs and rods. (Can also buy new rods and/or springs and ship these.)
Mod time: Couple hours, some turnaround time
Tuning time: Bruce customizes to the CRF230F and rider. Rider adds spacers to set preload and sag. Often requires one or two BBR springs for heavier riders. Some riders adjust oil viscosity and height.
Payoff: Excellent

💙💙1.2 Triplett is a known sweet spot in price/performance: “Works excellent for 75% of owners (IMO) for faster than average trail riding but certainly not for any serious MX racing... Certainly AT LEAST 50% of all 230F owners would feel perfectly happy with these mods.” post “The forks are wonderful over rocks, no deflection, very smooth. ... Bottom line, this was an awesome price-performance modification.” 💙💙

Zone 2: Easy swap to a better damping rod fork

2.1 86-95 XR250R Fork Swap is a slight upgrade from another Honda

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/1986-1995-xr250r-fork-swap/

Plus: “These forks will offer increased travel, more ground clearance, and the right amount of fork flex.”

37 mm stock to 41 mm increases stiffness a reasonable amount; see comment by Chuck below.

Minus: “However, these are still just orifice damped forks like the original CRF230F forks”... but for trail riding that may be just fine
Cost: Purchase forks and triple clamps, plus Triplett mods?
Mod time: Moderate: remove and reinstall triple clamps with spacers
Tuning time: Low if Triplett mods?

PAUSE HERE. Before you go any further... Could a stock damper rod (DR) fork with mods be plush enough for trail riding?

“I took out my emulators after 5 years. Now that I have Triplett stage two damper rods in my 230 the ride is far more plush and compliant than both of my other bikes with the cr80 forks. I'm spoiled now, when I ride the bike(s) with the 80 forks, it just beats my arms, shoulders and wrists. All my bikes have #40 cannon springs. The 230 had the same springs with the emulators and now with Triplett rods. I have always had a fork brace on my 230. Now Triplett has the third generation damper rods available. IMHO: Triplett damper rods cannot be beat for the riding that I do....”
“I also agree with the previous post about damper rod forks, they can be very plush for trail riding. Two years ago I put XR250R damper rod forks on a 90 XR200R and did some back to back riding against my 01 XR200R with Showa mini USD forks. The DR forks provided a plusher ride.” link

Zone 3: Easy swap to a RSU cartridge Honda fork

Theme: Bring over RSU cartridge that CRF230F never got

3.1 96-04 XR250R swap

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/1996-2004-xr250r-fork-swap/

Plus: “These forks will offer increased travel, more ground clearance, the right amount of fork flex, and much greater tuning potential compared to the stock forks.”
Minus: Probably have to do tuning unless you get the Terrain Tamer
Cost: Purchase forks and triple clamps
Mod time: Moderate: remove and reinstall triple clamps with spacers
Tuning time: Could be significant without Terrain Tamer
Payoff: This might be another sweet spot if you can obtain forks at a reasonable cost and can do shim tuning... but see comments below

Other perspectives on the XR250R swaps, but excluding Terrain Tamer:

“In my opinion a set of stock late-model XR250 forks are a waste of time and money. Once you get them sprung properly you have forks with way too little rebound damping. Even with factory springs rebound damping is inadequate. A set of CRF150R or CR85 forks makes good sense as they are superior to the late-model XR250 forks. If you spend some time speaking with Bruce Triplett you will find though XR250 forks seem a lot better they are not.” - VortecCPI post

BTR: “CRF250/450 fork too rigid and not good idea on 230... Even on my 450s I junked them in favor of XR650R forks.” post

3.2 Terrain Tamer special build using 96-04 XR250R core

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/1996-2004-xr250r-fork-swap/

“It works over a much more varied terrain than any other fork or revalved fork available to off road riders. It is more supple than a stock KDX/XR fork but has more bottoming resistance than a revalved MX fork set up for off road.” - Bruce’s Suspension

“Terrain Tamer forks are forks that have been gutted and have highly-customized internals. They are like nothing else on the market and are not even remotely close to late-model XR250 forks except for what they look like on the outside. Terrain Tamer forks will cost you about $600 so they are reserved for expert riders with expert wallets.” - VortecCPI post, more details by VortecCPI

This will make the forks into simply the BEST off-road / trail / woods / desert / dual-sport fork you can have. Forget about fancy USD forks, they won’t come close.” - Frickin’ Jim

Cost: Terrain Tamer is about $600, limited availability?
Mod time: Same as 2, plus turnaround
Tuning time: Triplett customizes for rider
Payoff: Frickin’ Jim believes this is the pinnacle of performance

3.3 XR400 fork swap <= Ultimate for trail riding?

BTR: “The 230 I built for friend with XR400R forks are working better than all my USD forks in the whole fleet” post

See Cop Build for details

Zone 4: Serious swap to an USD cartridge Honda fork

Theme: Bring over the newer Honda technology... but remember it is aimed at racing not trail riding. Many Zone 4 photos and details are available on the Ramz forks page. A very extensive review of parts is on the fork details page.

Cost: Can be high
Mod time: High. Components must be mixed and matched. Machine shop pressing and/or machining is required.
Tuning time: Not much? “The good part is just with spring/light oil they work 90% perfect.” - BTR post CR85 tuning including shims - BTR post
Payoff: Good if you need it for racing or technical riding

UPDATE: Overlooked 2017 threads strongly suggest RSU forks are most plush for trail riding. See Cop Build for links.

See Suspension 3.0 for my CRF150R upgrade project and Spring Rate 2018 for dialing in the sag with Cannon springs

Worth it? “I have a CRF150R front end with RT Gold valves on my XR218 and they are good, a big improvement over the stock damper rod forks like the 230’s use, and much lighter than stock or the big Showas.” - Chuck post

Is there any preference between CR80/85 and CRF150R/RB forks?

“Most agree that the CRF150R forks are the easier and ‘better’ option because they have more modern valving and a bigger axle.” - xplodee post

CRF150R has more modern and conventional shim stack in the midvalve post
There has been extensive valving work by BTR and others if you want to go to that level. See BTR Build for links.

“CRF150R & RB [full-size wheels] forks are my primary interest because they were developed for a heavier motorcycle and will thus be more suitable for the relatively heavy CRF230F, and they are still being developed for current year models.” - Ramz

Do I have to revalve / change shims? For CRF150R/RB forks, a noted modder states that he has never made any changes to the cartridge internals for moderate trail riding: only appropriate springs and fork oil.

The theory of why this works? Motocross forks are not a good idea for trail bikes. They are designed for high fork velocity and are way too stiff for slow plush riding. So why do the CRF150RB (the "B" means full-size wheels) forks work on the CRF230F? The CRF150RB is designed for teenagers to ride very fast and hard. It has a very stiff suspension with lots of damping... for a 150 lb rider. If you put a 200+ lb rider on the forks, with proper springs, the damping is likely to be about right. This relatively simple "open-cartridge" fork provides the sophistication of a modern design while being easy to work on.

What about clickers? “Those clickers [CRF150R] are just bypass bleeds and only good for fine tuning. On my XR200 I needed to run with them both all the way out but the bike would then wallow like an old car with bad shocks so I needed softer valving and less clicker.” post

4.2 Emig CR/CRF125/250/450 Inverted Fork Swap

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/crcrf125250450-inverted-fork-swap/

$650

4.3 Emig CR80R/CR85R/CRF150R Inverted Fork Swap

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/cr80rcr85rcrf150r-inverted-fork-swap/

$925

Three budget options for 4.3, ranging in estimated price from $1500 to $835 (Usedtobefast post)

Zone 5: Difficult swap to non-Honda technology

Theme: Bring over more exotic technology like YZ250 forks http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1210629-yz-250-front-forks-rear-disk-brake-hydro-clutch-i-love-230s/

Cost: High
Mod time: Multiple components must be swapped out. Requires advanced skills and machining capability.
Tuning time: May choose exotic fork for tunability. For example external preload adjustment, low and high speed compression damping.
Payoff: Could end up ruining your CRF230F as a trail bike

But do you really need the most complex forks on a trail / enduro bike?

“The late CR250R/CRF250/450/R/X all use Showa twin chamber forks, great forks but IMO overkill for a 230 for several reasons: They are very rigid USD forks, great for high speeds and MX but more flex works better for trail riding. ... More difficult to tune than other forks and they do need a revalve for trail riding.” - Chuck post

“Damper speeds of 8 m/s are reached at pro level MX in comparison to road bikes where only 2m/s are reached. That is why all MX and all factory riders use closed cartridge forks."

“The drawback of the closed cartridge is that it is more complex and requires more time and knowledge to maintain. Mechanics working on a closed cartridge fork have to be much more careful as it is easy to make small mistakes with bad consequences.

“Service intervals are shorter. Even though the oil inside the cartridge gets less contaminated. But the complexity of the system gives way for little hiccups in the cartridge. Regular checks are necessary.

“The mechanic also needs more knowledge for personal settings in these motorcycle forks. It is more complicated to open the sealed cartridge to change settings and better skills are needed to find the optimum performance of the fork.

“In order to use closed cartridge forks from a MX bike for Enduro it would need to be internally [re]valved. The shock as well needs to be changed accordingly. This job is fairly complicated and if done wrong your closed cartridge fork would feel much worse than a standard enduro open cartridge fork straight out the crate." - Page.

Paul Thede says pretty much the same thing in the RaceTech Suspension Bible (Amazon).

Modification for non-MX use: tips post

Summary: There seem to be three sweet spots in these zones:

Triplett 1.2 is great bang for buck and will satisfy most riders
Zone 3 Terrain Tamer or XR400 is the pinnacle of trail riding performance, but a lot of money or work
Zone 4 CRF150R option gets you an inverted cartridge fork from a similar weight bike

Triplett modified damping rods:

CRF150R forks by xplodee:

What you can tune

Damping rod forks

1.0, 1.2, 2.1

Spring rate: sag
Spring preload: sag fine tuning
Oil viscosity: compression and rebound damping
Oil level: bottoming resistance
Orifice geometry: damping curves. Requires brazing and drilling.

1.1 Gold Valves

above plus...

Valve spring preload: Compression damping
Valve plate bleed holes: Low speed compression damping
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulator%20Tuning%20Guide

Cartridge forks may have:

Externally adjustable compression damping

Some have separate low and high speed

Externally adjustable rebound damping
But note clickers are limited: “Those clickers [CRF150R] are just bypass bleeds and only good for fine tuning. On my XR200 I needed to run with them both all the way out but the bike would then wallow like an old car with bad shocks so I needed softer valving and less clicker.” post
Externally adjustable preload

Above:

11 April 2018 latest by JXG

12 September 2018: Rewritten to de-emphasize USD cartridge forks for trail riding

20 October 2018 Emulators more info

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2I60Tle

What about a fork brace?

“The fork brace, IMO, made the bike handle much better because of less deflection over slippery tree roots, rocks and especially ruts. The front end actually started to go in the direction that I wanted to go instead of flaying around. I will not ride my 230 with conventional forks without a fork brace ever again. It just works so well.” - Adnohguy post

“The 230 forks flex quite a bit. They deflect more than 2 inches. Getting out of ruts or tracking straight in really rough stuff can be difficult. The fork brace is a great mod for the bike. Every review I ever read agreed that is made a big difference in stability in the rough stuff.” - post

“You'll benefit from a fork brace if: - post

1. you ride in the sand. It helps prevent head shake.

2. you try to ride out of a rut.

3. have trouble holding a line at speed.

4. you're a big guy. It'll just feel more precise.

Review of SRC in 2006 (no longer available): “The only downside is that since so much fork flex has been eliminated, the forks feel stiffer and harsher when encountering trail trash, even though the fork action hasn't changed. You definitely feel more feedback from any and all front wheel impacts with trail trash, both in your hands and your wrists. Overall, it makes the bike just a bit more tiring to ride.

The upside is the greatly improved steering precision. I really didn't notice how much the front wheel was wandering after being deflected by impacts with minor (2" and less) trail trash until I felt how much more solid and precise it is with the fork brace in place! It not only allows you to go faster, but faster with improved confidence! Perhaps the biggest surprise, however, was the improved feel and front tire traction feedback during hard cornering, even when the surface was smooth and flat! To me, this was every bit as beneficial as the improved steering on rough ground. I regret that the feedback is more harsh now, but the benefits were well worth it!” - CRF’s Only review from 2006. Modern fork upgrades may reduce the downsides noted above.

$109 RSW fork brace

Above: 11 December 2016, 7 January 2017 by JXG

Anatomy of the cartridge fork

This section is basically an unpaid advertisement for the Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible (Amazon) by Paul Thede, with great illustrations by Lee Parks.

You can also read Cartridge Forks - Race Tech Suspension and Basics of Cartridge and Damping Forks | Motorcycle Cruiser.

Below is the basic layout of a right-side up (RSU) cartridge fork, like the XR400R. Compression damping is provided by a base valve at the bottom of the fork. Rebound damping is provided by another valve in the middle of the fork.

^^^ Illustration courtesy of Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible

Below is more detail on the base valve. Note this one has both high and low speed damping.

The shims are paper-thin spring steel and exaggerated here in the illustration. The spring holds them under compression. When the fork is compressed, oil flow bends the shims which act as a valve. This valve is non-linear: it’s flow depends on how much the shims bend.

The number and thickness of shims can be adjusted. This is much more controlled than oil going through orifices.

^^^ Illustration courtesy of Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible

One thing to keep in mind about Race Tech... they are all about racing. Going fast. If you are a relatively slow technical trail rider, you need to take some of Race Tech’s theory and a lot of their recommendations with a large grain of salt.

Above 30 October 2018 by JXG

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/tuning-the-stock-forks/

Triplett Stock Fork Mod: Excellent performance and price

Over the past couple of years the Triplett damper rod mods have become popular because they are cheaper than Gold Valves and many believe they work better. Bruce drills a pattern of proprietary (unpublished) holes in the damper rods. The theory is explained here under “Orifice Size and Location”

Here are some favorite quotes on the Triplett mods:

“Works excellent for 75% of owners (IMO) for faster than average trail riding but certainly not for any serious MX racing:

Triplett 2nd generation damper rods,
cut 3-4" from at least one stock fork spring (s)
add PVC spacers to adjust sag for your weight
Add either 5-20wt or 10-30wt 100% synthetic engine oil
set 4 1/2 ~ 5 1/2 inches from top of tube when fully compressed with no springs installed. (Depending on how much bottoming resistance you desire for your weight and riding style/speeds)

“My gut tells me that this would be more than great for at least 75% of 230F owners. Certainly AT LEAST 50% of all 230f owners would feel perfectly happy with these mods.

“... Previously I had stock forks, so Bruce's updates are way way better. The stiffer spring holds the bike up more, and the damper rod mods seem very well matched to the springs. Compression and rebound seem about spot on. There were a few areas where I thought the rebound could have been a bit slower, Bruce recommends a change to a heavier oil for that, but I am going to hold off and ride the bike a bit more. I had a couple of high speed (fork movement) hits that jolted me a bit more than expected, but my other main bike is a KTM 300 with closed chamber forks valved to perfection, so pretty unfair to expect that performance from the CRF230F fork. The forks are wonderful over rocks, no deflection, very smooth. I did some light moto on it, but I think I'll wait for the Fox shock before getting too crazy. Bottom line, this was an awesome price-performance modification.” http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1179112-230-fork-swap-spring-2016-options/page-2

“The 2nd generation Triplett damper rods transformed my bike into a COMPLETELY different ride than the whole 5 years with the emulators.

Did not seem to make a difference on how rough or off camber, all tree roots, square edges or Loose rocks, the forks actually out performed my Works Performance rear shock for the very first time. ... I was able to push my bike harder while using all available power much more often than ever before.

I had more confidence without bottoming or deflecting off of obstacles, the wheels tracked where I needed to go. ESPECIALLY on steep down hills. No more bottoming! Same fork springs as before. Much more confident on loose off cambers. Also Happy to report: No more almost jerking my hands from the bars, no more sore wrists, elbows and shoulders. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1187887-bbr-fork-springs/

Install details are below: Suspension 2.0 ➤ Triplett Fork Mod - 2016

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2HEBmTK

Visual and weight comparison of Stock, CRF150RB, and XR400R Forks

^^^ CRF230F Showa 37 mm and XR400R Showa 48 mm forks. The 230F and 400R are both conventional RSU (right side up) but the 230F are damper rod (orifice) damping without adjustment whereas the 400R are cartridge (shims) with base valve (compression) and rebound stacks. While massive, the 400R’s add only about 1 lb; see below.

NOTE: Seal Savers are no longer recommended for RSU forks.

^^^ CRF230F Showa 37 mm, CRF150RB 37 mm, and XR400R Showa 48 mm forks. The 230F and 400R are RSU (right side up) and the 150RB are USD (upside-down).

CRF150RB top (clamp area) is 46 mm, max is 48 mm, and tube (stanchion) is 37 mm.

^^^CRF230F, CRF150RB, and XR400R axle areas detail. The 150RB has a Ramz brake adapter installed for use on the 230F.

^^^ XR400R and CRF230F triple clamps. The 400R stem is unmodified in this photo, so it is too long.

^^^ CRF230F, CRF150RB, and XR400R triple clamps. The stem of the 150RB has been pressed up so it will fit the 230F steering tube. The 400R has been shortened to fit the 230F steering tube. The 150RB has 1/2-inch risers installed in this photo. (Corrected 9 January 2019)

^^^ Comparison of top clamp: CRF150RB and XR400R

^^^ Axle weights as shown above: CRF230F is top.

CRF230F axle (15 mm) = 1.01 lbs
CRF150RB axle = 0.585 lbs
XR400R axle (17 mm) = 0.83 lbs

Weights

CRF230F ‘08 Triples with only one bearing = 5.59 lbs

CRF230F ‘08 Forks with BBR springs, oil, SealSavers, axle = 17.92

TOTAL = 23.51 lbs

CRF150RB ‘08 Triples with one bearing and two risers = 4.03 lbs

CRF150RB ‘08 Forks with Cannon 0.50 springs, oil, guards, Ramz brake plate, axle = 16.76

TOTAL = 20.79 lbs

XR400R Triples ‘96 with both bearings = 4.66 lbs

XR400R Forks ‘03 with stock springs, oil, boots, axle = 19.92 lbs

TOTAL = 24.58 lbs

Forks	Source	Pounds
YZ85 forks (KYB) w triples, no guards, est	Chuck post	19.39
96-02 CR80/85 USD (Showa 37U)	Chuck post	19.46
KTM85SX forks 43mm USD 10.8” travel	Chuck post	19.75
CRF150RB ‘08 37mm USD, triples, axle	JXG	20.79
YZ85 forks (KYB) w triples & brake	Chuck post	21.85
CRF230F ‘08 Forks, triples, axle	JXG	23.51
90 XR200R w/ brgs (KYB 36C)	Chuck post	23.66
84 XR250R w/ brgs, dry (KYB 38C)	Chuck post	24.06
XR400R Forks ‘03	JXG	24.58
81 RM125 (KYB 38C)	Chuck post	25.13
96-98 RM125/250 (Showa 49C)	Chuck post	27.91
89 RM125 (KYB 46C)	Chuck post	27.98
05 CRF230F f/ TT Blue Hawaii	Chuck post	34.25
C = Conventional, U = Upside-down

Fender mounting

The XR400 fender mounts take 6 mm and are threaded 17 mm deep. They hang down below the triple about 3 mm. The 230F mounts hang down 6 mm and the CRF150RB mounts hang down 8 mm. So the XR400 mounting gives more clearance.

Thanks to Chuck for data post

Above 11, 9, 3 November 2018 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2qBMIxp

Fork parts for Showa 37U and 48C forks

Chuck: “Honda part numbers from my research on Showa 37U forks.

Outer tube 51410-

GBF-831 96-97 CR80R

GBF-861 96-98 CR80RB

GBF-J01 98 CR80R

GBF-J21 99-02 CR80R

GBF-J31 99-02 CR80RB

GBF-K01 03 CR85R

GBF-K11 03 CR85RB

GBF-K21 04-07 CR85R

GBF-K31 04-07 CR85RB

KSE-831 07-08 CRF150R

KSE-841 07-08 CRF150RB

Base valve 51441-

GBF-831 96-97 CR80R

GBF-831 96-98 CR80RB

GBF-J01 98 CR80R

GBF-J21 99-02 CR80R/RB

GBF-K01 03 CR85R/RB

GBF-K21 04-07 CR85R/RB

KSE-671 07-08 CRF150R/RB

Rod, Damper 51480- (includes mid valve)

GBF-831 96-97 CR80R

GBF-861 96-98 CR80RB

GBF-J01 98 CR80R

GBF-J21 99-02 CR80R

GBF-J31 99-02 CR80RB

GBF-K01 03 CR85R

GBF-K11 03 CR85RB

GBF-K21 04 CR85R

GBF-K31 04-07 CR85RB

KSE-671 07-08 CRF150R

KSE-841 07-08 CRF150RB

Tube, Damper 51431-

GBF-831 96-97 CR80R

GBF-831 96-98 CR80RB

GBF-J01 98-07 CR80R

GBF-J01 99-07 CR80RB

KSE-671 07-08 CRF150R/RB

Slider R 51420-

GBF-831 96-98 CR80R/RB

GBF-J21 99-02 CR80R/RB

GBF-K01 03-07 CR85R/RB

KSE-671 07-08 CRF150R/RB

Slider L 51520-

GBF-831 96-98 CR80R/RB

GBF-J21 99-02 CR80R/RB

GBF-K01 03-07 CR85R/RB

KSE-671 07-08 CRF150R/RB

Triple & Stem Part # 53219-

GBF-830 96-98 CR80R/85R/RB

GBF-J20 99-04 CR80R/85R/RB

GBF-K40 05-07 CR85R/RB

GBF-K40 07-08 CRF150R/RB

Top Bridge 53300-

GBF-830 96-02 CR80R/RB

GBF-830 03-07 CR85R/RB

KSE-000 07-08 CRF150R/RB

The sliders have the same casting marks on the lower lugs so appears the only difference is the ID of the axle holes. Some of the obvious differences for stanchions are color.

The middle part of the # is the Honda Part Code; GBF is cr80/85, KSE is CRF150R.

The last 3 digits are variations is configuration, color, supplier, etc.

Some of the early CR forks had unusual shim stacks the that flexed the ID rather than the OD, pretty much eliminates conventional tuning. post

Thanks to Chuck for data post

Showa 48 forks on XR400R 1997 PZ

Mid-valve 51456-KCY-671

Base valve 51441-KCY-671

Seals

51490-KS6-305 SEAL SET, FR. FORK (SHOWA)

51415-MCF-003 (replaces part #51415-KCY-761) BUSH, SLIDER

Tusk complete kit: "Dyno-tested to outlast OEM bushings. Includes 2 inner bushings and 2 outer bushings along with all copper washers, O-rings, and fork seal snap rings." "Performs as well as OEM parts. No reason it should not last as long either. Slightly cheaper as well. I have used these for the last two years. I do a complete fork rebuild every winter and these bushings come out looking great." https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-fork-bushing-kit-p?s=1603826

Above 8 December 2021, 13 December 2018 by JXG

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1241570-xr400-forked-230-after-long-test/?tab=comments#comment-13920145

XR400R Forks: The Best and Least Expensive?

See Suspension 4.0 for the latest and most detailed XR400R fork build information (November 2018)

Build 1: Cop build with reference to other TT member builds

Right side up (RSU) forks for ultimate plushness? “The best USD fork won’t match RSU fork over rocks and be as plush. Not to complain: my modified CR85 fork is great but XR400 can't be beat for plush” - BTR post

Briefly stated. “This fork has aluminum triple clamps and stem so the weight [is] very close to 230 fork. Having had many years modding XR400 forks this is a great trail fork hard to beat. They have 17mm Axle, 43mm tubes very easy to work on. May 2017 post

Open cartridge. “XR400 fork is a open cartridge fork with no MV. [Not true, corrected in later post.] Thus it moves pretty freely without the hydro lock issue on sharp edges. These MV's cause more problems then they solve for 85% of the folks riding them. Let's face it... 85% of these bikes are not put onto a supercross track where they need that "catch" to prevent hard bottoming off a 90-120 foot triple jump.” post

Unsprung weight and RSU forks. “The thing not mentioned is unsprung weight. Pick up a lower fork tube from a USD fork. Now pick up an aluminum slider from a 'right side up' fork. That aluminum slider is a bunch lighter. It's simple physics. Even with "theoretically perfect" damping the heavier tube will transfer more energy to the chassis.

Years ago I rode my 1990 cr250 back to back with a buds 87 cr250 thru the woods. My 1990 had been re-valved for plushness but the 87 (with "the best fork" back in the day) was much better at floating over roots and rocks with no loss of control on the bigger stuff. Remember the 97 RM forks, the last of the "right side up" forks? Widely hailed as wonderful forks.” - Doogee57 post, also see Chuck post

BTR first mention of Cop Build on 15 May 2017, with details on XR650R triples post

Cost? “This experiment was done to try cheaper Alternative fork for 230 then $$$$$$ Cr85/150r fork. So even if XR400 fork slight bit more weight then CR85 I don’t think it matters on Alt inexpensive fork. All mods on XR400 fork could be done in most guy’s garage. Except turning down XR650R stem to fit Xr4 clamp.” May 2017 post

Weight? About 25 lbs, almost the same as stock forks but much more massive

Forks to use. 1997 to 2004 XR400 forks per Jeffrow68 post

1996-1997 are a little different but usable

Triple clamp. XR400. Have also used XR500, and XR650R per Jeffrow68 post and also BTR

Stem

BTR first used a XR650R stem. Aluminum cut on bottom and turned down to fit XR400 clamp post.
Mike H. decided to cut and weld the XR400 stem post post.
Just washer spacers? Jeffrow68 post, RickyRacer post. BTR concerned about bearing position, see post.

Shims. “If your XR400 forks are after 97, they have 12 shims. Remove 8 so you have 4 left.” BTR post.

More on shims by RickyRacer post, post

Air bleeders. Works Connection 26-300 will fit. Amazon, $25. “Highly recommend” (BTR) but see JXG’s take below.

Oil. “3 wt rear shock oil 4 inches from top” BTR post

Need two quarts. I used well over a quart for two forks: JXG

Springs cut. “The top coil: grind it flat to size after heating. Be sure to check length before you do it. Because after heating cut top coil you drop it just like factory. Please note when you grind it flat you lose a little more spring height.” BTR post

“The XR400 fork spring cut 1-1/4 is perfect. Not too stiff by any means. Tested by 7 riders even experts.” BTR post
But see Build 2 below for update!

PVC spacer. “On Cop bike spacer was 1-1/4 inch even with forks pulled up 1 inch in clamps.” BTR post

Could shorten the fork tubes post

Brake line. 2001 CR125R. RR post

Caliper. CRF230F. RR post

Axle. XR400 17mm axle

Wheel

XR400 or 1989 XR600R with correct bearings for 17mm axle. RR post.

The CRF230F wheel can be set up for XR400 17 mm axle. See diagram under JXG Build for the most accurate listing.

^^^ XR400 Right side with speedometer delete adapter (Photo courtesy of BTR)

^^^ XR400 Left side with spacers (Photo courtesy of BTR)

A 88-91 RM125 / RM250 wheel can be used post? Did not fit post.

Fender. “Do not use stock fender -- use aftermarket CRF250/450 fender” “If OEM and has bump stop under fender, not good” “Also I think I cut fender mounts small amount to move fender up.” - BTR. JXG: CRF150R/RB fender fits also.

RickyRacer other config post

Fork test by BTR

“The four of us rode the Cop bike. ... Nitpicker said it only took 5 feet to tell the XR400 fork was more plush. We then tested jumping / rocks / ruts / g-outs / whoops that suck on a 230.

“Tight uphill trail with rocks. High speed sand wash and tight trail with lock to lock turns. Did we leave anything out? The damn XR400 fork wins hands down. Mike tried everything he could do to make them fail.

“Here is the difference: the XR400 forks are shorter by 1-1/4 pulled up about 1 inch in triple. They have 1.5 more rake then CR85/150 fork are 1/2 in longer. I'm still 100% happy with my CR85B forks but I will do the plug the hole trick. I will also mount the XR400 forks for long test but as it stands the CR85/150R fork is the loser. I was impressed with the Cops bike: it was capable of going faster over the whoops than I had nerve.” BTR post

Other stuff...

“XR400 forked 230 after long test”: this is a long complex post that discusses why the CR85 and CRF150R forks are not as plush on sharp edges. Focus on the midvalve.

^^^ Photo courtesy of RickyRacer

Build 2: BTR build September 2018

See Suspension 4.0 for the latest and most detailed build information (November 2018)

BTR: “I did not shorten this set of springs -- now learned no need to do that.

^^^ “I was able to pull them up 1-13/16 up in triple clamp.

“Removed springs to test -- tire not hitting fender. With this set up bike is only 1/2 inch up in front over CR85/150R fork.

“I'm using stock XR400 17mm axle. Also XR400 wheel -- the stock CRF brake bolts on.

“I had to grind down welded fork stops to get full turning with Scotts damper installed.

“I'm using Daystar fork boots. I will cut 5 or more ribs off bottom. As too long with forks dropped.

“The forks already have 6 shims removed and 3 wt oil.

“I will first test without 150f rocker as with only 1/2 up in front. Should be perfect for slight bit more rake, I will try rocker.”

Results

“Tested today rocks / Baja 1000 track / dirt road / trail square edge. Nitpicker and me agree. XR400 soaks up to rocks and square edge better. XR400 fork does not dive like USD fork.”

“As we both rode my bike over same spot Baja 1000 course. We both agreed now the Fox shock can no longer keep up with the XR400 fork. Small concern as these are trail bikes. Just the fact that Nitpicker could not knock the forks. We be happy.” 26 Sept 2018 post

(May do in the future, not done yet) “After getting forks tuned since I have more sets of xr4 forks. I may take apart another set. Remove 2 more shims or gold valve them as I have custom spec. Also disable mid valve. And plug rebound return oil hole.” 26 Sept 2018 post

The XR400 fork tube has a recessed area near top of fork. So when pulled up so high the second bolt down from top clamp is in recessed area. So we just slipped in a thin shim stock. Got gap on top clamp perfect after tightening pinch bolts. Roof edge moulding was perfect thickness.” post

Note: Clarifications by BTR to JXG in blue.

“The XR400 fork plows through rocks, big g-outs, washboard. The CR85 USD forks deflect over rocks, a handful. XR400 fork very forgiving, so the USD fork not returning [even though] the CR85/150R forks with a million mods are very good.” 30 Sept 2018 post

What about the mid-valve? “Nitpicker’s XR400 fork on his XR440 has mid valve mod same as our CR85 fork. On CR fork big time improvement. On the great XR400 fork he does not feel the difference. I will not do mid valve mod to my XR400 forked 230.” 3 October 2018 post

Jeffrow68’s Three Builds: XR400R and CRF150R/CR85 Forks

Bike 1: crf230 frame, XR400R forks, XR600 triple clamp, 85/150R stem. I pressed the stem into the XR600 clamp and it worked fine, full nut engagement on top clamp.

Bike 2: crf230 frame, XR400R forks, XR600 triple clamps, XR600 stem. The XR600 stem was modified by cutting a new ring groove 1/2” above the original groove. This limits how far the stem can be pressed into the bottom clamp. I only had to add a small spacer on the top to get it to work.

Bike 3: crf230 frame, CRF150R/CR85 forks and triple clamps and stem. Using this setup, the stem was too short. I had to machine(grind) the ID of the bottom clamp to get the stem to press in another 1/4”. - Jeffrow68 post

Above by JXG on 10 November 2019; 24, 20, 18, 16 October; 28, 26, 10 September 2018 with thanks to BTR and others as noted.

Link to XR400 section: http://bit.ly/2wVQncc

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1303704-yet-another-xr4-fork-to-230/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-15102532

✪✪ The XR400 fork conversion bearing relocating adapter ✪✪ -- June 2020

MI Dirt Biker writes: “This adapter eliminates the need to shorten the XR400 triple clamp steering tube. The adapter just presses into the CRF230F steering head tube in the frame where the upper bearing race is located. The upper race is then pressed into the bearing adapter relocating it to the correct distance from the bottom race to use the XR400 triple clamp/steering stem as is.

^^^ Photo by MI Dirt Biker

Credits:

mg600: originator/inventor

AMAC: created the drawing and .STP file

MI Dirt Biker: provided photos and received permission from both to provide the information to the Shop Notebook.

A PDF dimensional drawing and STEP file is here

Links discussing adapter:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1329082-xr400-fork-swap-more-detailed-insider-grizzled-vet-tips-forwannabees%E2%80%94steering-head-bearing-removalreplacement-etc/?tab=comments#comment-15443685

Link to this section: https://bit.ly/3hOHPKQ

Special thanks to MI Dirt Biker for assembling and contributing this material

Above added by JXG on 21 June 2020

http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/XR400R/2003

XR400R Reference Info and Fork Springs

Note: Compared to the 2000-2004, the 1996-1999 XR400R forks have 7 shims instead of 12, a shorter and lighter spring, and the fork spring stop on the damper is totally different (BTR, 3/27/22, UPDATE22)

“1996-97 fork: When you remove the fork cap, the early fork has a strange spring retainer cup type washer that slides in under the damper rod nut. This makes it have a shorter spring. Later fork has the normal washer between spring and fork cap. Can you swap early and late spring and different washer set up? Yes. I'm trying the combination on my 250F: late XR400 fork with early spring and washer. Because 1996-97 softer spring seems perfect [for lighter rider]. With the light oil and revalve, it is butter smooth and can't feel washboard--yet no bottom out. Bingo.” - BTR post on 8/26/22

Is 12 shims down to 4 different from 7 down to 4? No - BTR on 4/4/23

Service manual says:

1996-97 spring length 510
1997+ spring length is 536

2003 XR400R Stock springs, RT claims 0.41 = 536 x 36.7 mm
2008 CRF150RB springs Cannon 32448 0.50 = 448 mm x 32.4 mm
2008 CRF150RB springs Cannon 32448 0.50 with spacers (86 mm) = 533 mm, 3 mm short of stock springs

Note the 1996-99 and 2000-04 differences in Cannon catalog:

96-99 "may need spacer"
00-04 use 96-99 and spacer

Cannon

Cannon email 2018:

32448 = 32.4 x 448
37505 = 36.7 x 505

To avoid spacers Cannon can make the exact length: custom length is $175 and two weeks lead time.

2018-2022: I have been using the CRF150RB springs with two spacers (above): see XR400 forks: Changing to 0.50 springs. Why? Because if I buy a Cannon 37505 it will need a spacer too: 31 mm. But the diameter would be correct (36.7), so the springs would not make noise.

2022 slight problem: The right spring broke. Really. I have ordered a set of 37505 and made 31 mm spacers. More to follow.

2024 update: The correct 37505 spring and 31 mm spacers have been great on extremely eroded scree field trails.

No dimensions or spring rates found:

1996: SPRING, FR. FORK 51401-KCY-671 PartsFish
2003: SPRING, FR. FORK 51401-KCY-761

XR400R spring rates from RaceTech: wrong?

3/28/22: BTR says these numbers are wrong

1996:
1997:
1998: 0.40
1999: 0.40
2000: 0.38
2001: 0.38
2002: 0.38
2003: 0.41 kg/mm

RaceTech for 1996

RaceTech for 2003

http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/XR400R/2003

Note: RT is showing 35.8 x 472 spring dimensions for both 1996-1999 and 2000-2004 years; this is either an error or a 64 mm spacer is needed for 2000-2004.

“When we got four sets of Racetec springs for XR400 forks, they were way too short. Needed a long spacer to set preload. They worked so bad we made them take back all four sets.” “Cannon springs were good to go.” - BTR recalling XR400 fleet, 3/28/22

https://www.factoryconnection.com/Product-part-Fork-Springs does not list any XR400 fork springs

XR400R Service Manual, 1996-2004 is here (PDF, 70 MB) and Owner’s Manual is here (PDF, 3 MB).

Parts for 2003 XR400R

Front wheel travel: 280 mm = 11.0 inches ref

^^^ from p. 1-10. Note errors in Fork Oil Capacity--they meant milliliters:

570 ml = 19.3 US Fluid Oz
559 ml = 18.9 US Fluid Oz

^^^ page 1-13. ”Note 1” says use threadlocker.

^^^ page 13-1

Note that no torque values for triple clamp pinch bolts are anywhere in the 400R manual. The same size bolts in the same position on the CRF150RB are as follows: 22 Nm.

Bar rise from top of triple clamps to center of bar

CRF230F stock = 35 mm (7/8 inch bar clamp)
XR400R = 35 mm (7/8 inch bar clamp)
CRF150RB = 43 mm (7/8 inch bar clamp) [Corrected 11/11/18]

Fork oil: 2018: I used 1 qt and 8 oz of a second quart

Above by JXG on 5 December 2024; 26 August 2022; 28 March 2022; 29, 19, 17 October 2018

Link: https://bit.ly/3wxfIZG

Shock options for the 230F and 250F

Link: http://bit.ly/2M8Zo76

Why are the stock shocks so bad? The stock shock is fine for smooth and slow riding. For rough and/or fast riding, “The too-slow rebound damping causes packing which results in bucking and side swapping.” - VortecCPI post The next question is, why has Honda never improved this even a little in decades?

Summary. The stock 230F shock is “horrifying” as Frickin’ Jim puts it, but can be modified to a level not as good as the Hagon. Hagon is not ideal for technical riding due to its simple emulsion damping system but is popular, available, and a big step up from stock. The 1986-up XR250R shock is best performance for trail riding but takes time and money to find and get rebuilt. Fox Podium is very good but discontinued… but Race Brothers cloned it in 2019. In 2022 and 2023 new options have appeared!

Bolt-on shock options: Buy and install

Modified shock options: Find, acquire, rebuild / revalve, install

Shock specs and weights

What is your riding style? How to choose among the options

What is your riding style?
Cruising dirt roads and smooth trails	Rougher roads and trails that exercise the shock more	Technical Single Track (TST)
Mellow riding Lighter riders Younger riders	Heavier riders Faster riding Rougher riding: small rocks, roots	Challenge riding Heavier riders Faster riding Rougher riding: sharp rocks, roots Whoops Jumping Racing Many annual hours riding Long rides More sitting Older riders Previous injuries, medical conditions
Stock shock	Emulsion shock	Reservoir shock
No damping adjustment	Combined compression and rebound valve, limited adjustment	Separate compression and rebound valves and adjustments. Reservoir.
	Examples: Hagon, Vonkat, Race Tech G3-S	Examples: Race Bros, Tuskany, numerous options that are not bolt-on

Spring rate is critical to give you correct sag for your riding weight. For the CRF230F linkage, Fox figured out spring rates which seem very accurate: see Podium section. These rates are specific to the linkage, so they apply to any shock. Insist that your supplier tell you what spring rate they propose to send you, before you make the purchase. Spring rate converter.

Technology. An emulsion shock has no reservoir; gas and oil mix together. A reservoir shock has a bladder that keeps gas and oil separate. The reservoir also provides more cooling so the shock does not fade. Because of the reservoir structure the oil is routed through a shim stack for separate compression damping.

Just like the shim stack on a fork, an orifice can be adjusted and you get adjustable compression damping. The shim stack itself can also be tuned for a particular riding style, in either an emulsion or reservoir shock. But for emulsion, the single shim stack is a compromise between compression and rebound.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1415997-%F0%9F%91%8C-tuscany-racing-full-fledged-rear-shock-for-crf-230f-and-250f-maybe-the-best-bang-for-your-buck/

*** State of the Shocks for 230F and 250F: 2019-2024

14 March 2024 updates

** 2022: Detailed comparison of stock, stock modified, Hagon, Fox Podium, and Vonkat on the 230F by a racer https://torturetestmagazine.com/pages/seeing-what-the-vonkat-crf230f-shock-is-made-of

Bike setup is here: https://torturetestmagazine.com/pages/torture-test-magazines-2003-crf230f

2019: Race Tech G3-S for the 250F

“IFP (Internal Floating Piston - Internal Reservoir, No Compression Adjust)”
Rick Ramsey likes it: http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF250Fmods.htm#suspension

2021: Racing Brothers Fox Podium Clone for 230F

9 March 2023: CRF’s Only has the 230F shock but states they have heard nothing about a 250F shock. I have sent multiple emails to the company, no response. https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/355_360_27_63/products_id/6978
14 March 2024: CRF’s Only is showing the 150F shock under 230F parts: call them

Tuscany Racing Rear Shock for 230F and 250F: Made in Brazil

2023 later in the year: will sell to the US?
March 2023: WILL NOT SELL TO USA, 18 March 2023 post
2022: Tuscany Racing Rear Shock for 230F and 250F: Made in Brazil

Translate the Tuscany Racing website from Portuguese to English: https://www-tuscanyracingshop-com-br.translate.goog/amortecedor-completo-para-crf-230-250-f-e-tornado?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

From 230mm to 300mm (70mm increase) of the rear wheel travel

See below for new info

22 clicks for rebound adjust;
Remote reservoir with Oil + Nitrogen with
2.5 turns for compression adjust in it.
16mm vs 14mm stock shock shaft
Optimal spring for your weight
+ valving genetics according to what you practice (if you do mx outdoors, trails etc).

2022: Vonkat El Jefé For Honda 230F and 150F

https://www.vonkat.us/shop/vonkat-el-jef-for-honda-crf230f-and-crf150f
No compression adjustment
“Air adjustable spring assist from 115 PSI (minimum) to 145 PSI (maximum)
585 lb spring per TTM: this is just right for most adult riders; almost everyone used 600 lb on the Fox Podium
2023: CRF230F racer: “The Vonkat shock was absolutely the right choice for this build. The performance leaves nothing to be desired. It offers enough ride comfort to race a 24 hour endurance race. The value offered for the price is more than fair. If you’re looking for high performance at a good price, this shock is an excellent option.” https://torturetestmagazine.com/pages/seeing-what-the-vonkat-crf230f-shock-is-made-of

2023: Vonkat El Jefé For Honda 250F

2024: Available. https://www.vonkat.us/shop/vonkat-el-jef-250-for-honda-crf250f

Do you really desire a Fox Podium? “The Fox was embarrassingly expensive, and the only way to get one now is to have Fox build it for you, and there could be a minimum order quantity involved with that… Expect to pay about twice the price of the Vonkat per unit.” https://torturetestmagazine.com/pages/seeing-what-the-vonkat-crf230f-shock-is-made-of

See sections below for details on these shocks

TT Topics:

2017-2020 https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1237999-yss-rear-shock/page/8/

2019-2024

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1287276-yss-rear-shock/page/3/

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1473993-2024-options-for-a-crf230f-rear-shock/?tab=comments#comment-18097067

How do the shock lengths compare (eye-to-eye)?

3/10/23 version

XR250 = 15 in for ‘88-95, 15-1/8 for others

On 230F: requires revalving, see XR250R shock, 1986-up

XR350 1985 single carb model shock = 15 in

On 250F: First edition by BTR required extensive mods including cutting and rewelding the shock body

Used ‘90 XR250 spring with 3/4-inch spacers underneath

Fox 230F = 15-3/8 in (Ramz)
Tuscany Brazilian shock = 15 in (TT)

“From 230mm to 300mm (70mm increase [2.75 inches]) of the rear wheel travel”
230 mm = 9 inches
260 mm = 10.2
300 mm = 11.8 inches

10 March 2023: “After contacting Massimo (the owner) he informed me that The Tuscany Racing Shock is only offered in one length, the extended 300mm, not 3 different lengths” post

Stock 250F eye to eye = 14-3/8 in (Ramz) = 14.375 = 365 mm

Can a 230F shock fit a 250F? No. But. Per BTR, a ⅛-inch spacer can be installed inside the Fox 230F shock or the XR250 15-⅛ model years or the 1985 single-carb XR350 to reduce the eye-to-eye distance to fit the 250F. Note the XR250 and XR350 shock mods are so complicated that adding an internal spacer is not much more work. See XR250R shock, 1986-up below.

2018: 230F Bolt-on shock options

^^^ Stock CRF230F shock, Hagon, and Fox Podium RC2

https://www.racingbros.com/EN/product/36/8

2021 Ranking of CRF230F shock options

by GavMac78, highest to lowest:

Fox Podium
Racing Brothers Fox Podium Clone
Hagon
YSS without reservoir [see 2024 update below]

“YSS is a total POS and the Hagon is 1000% worth the money” post
JXG comment: It is likely the YSS has never been tuned for the 230F and trail riding, and the spring rate may have been wrong for rider weight

Stock with Hlebo mods
Stock

2019: 230F Bolt-on shock options: Racing Brothers and YSS

** New in 2019 ** Racing Brothers Fox Podium Clone

“I recently got this shock after riding a buddies CRF150F that has the Fox Shock on it before they quit making it. I did some research before purchasing this and after speaking with the actual importer of the shock they told me this is basically an exact copy of the Fox shock. When they realized Fox was going to stop making them, they found a Suspension company and sent them a Fox shock to reverse engineer. They did a damn good job, after riding it some this week, it feels just as good as the Fox shock on my buddies bike and the adjustability is fantastic. It's great to have a high quality shock option for these bikes again.” post

$740 https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/27_63/products_id/6977

YSS

14 March 2024: some updates

2017 First impression. “I just got it installed on my bike and went for a quick spin. Wow, I can say that it is a MAJOR improvement over the stock shock (not that that’s difficult). It eats up small bumps and tree roots so I could barely feel them. It isn't on the same level as the Fox shock but it seems to be a good alternative to the stock shock for a decent price. Time will tell if it lasts though.” post

“I liked it for a couple of months but then the performance dropped off significantly. Same on the MT 03. I ended up buying a Hyperpro for the MT 03. I installed the Honda OEM on the 230. post

2020: “Mine has served me well the last couple/few years and I think that the others that went with the YSS have been pleased. IMO it is most def. worth the $300 and if you're strapped for cash it's a good choice. 100% upgrade over the stock shock. I would love to try one of the Podium clones as well but I don't think with my limited off-road experience I would be able to take full advantage of it's potential. post

Flashback to 2019... “The YSS was a nightmare and a total POS that was barely better than the OEM. It came off, sold it at a huge loss and replaced it with the Hagon. I would never recommend the YSS again. The Hagon is more but worth the cost. It was also only used as a trail bike. The Vonkat is the newest shock and has better reviews than a Hagon. In the end I spent more money to buy and replace the YSS than if I'd just bought the Hagon in the first place. Don't waste your money on a sub-par upgrade. Spend the $ and get something better. - GavMac78 post in 2024

Referring to above post, “My experience also with YSS.” https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1287276-yss-rear-shock/page/3/

Is this a serious shock? “This shock is very high quality but perfection can only be acquired with correct spring weight and maybe even some valve [shim] tuning. This applies to any shock you buy. That's why I went custom locally to get it perfect. Upgrading to reservoir (adj comp) is expensive but gives you finer tuning. A stock unit will be fine for most riders. I pretty much race this bike against open class enduro bikes so I needed the best.” - Landerz email quoted with permission, December 2018.

Update October 2019: Is the non-reservoir YSS as good as the Hagon? “Huge improvement over stock but not quite as good as the Hagon. As evidenced by the lower price point.” post

Note again... what is your riding style? Racing and trail riding are different. As Landerz says, you might need shim tuning to optimize any shock including the YSS.

^^^ YSS shock courtesy of Landerz. Note the hose angle and how similar it is to the BTR XR250R hose angle, below.

Specifications post:

— Pre-Load Adjustment, Rebound Adjustment 60 Clicks (or 30 clicks? post)

— 36 mm 50 Micron Steel Bore and Radial Sinter Piston

— 16 mm Hardened Shaft

— Low Friction, Long Life Seal Block

— Bearing and Bushes to suit each Model

— Dampening and Springrates Model specific

— (Optional: Ride Height Adjuster (Length Adjuster +10 mm)

Options:

1. Rebound only adjustment for $320 post: MZ366-380TRL-08 post

2. Reservoir and compression adjustment added at the $575 price, so $255 extra post: MX366-380TRL-08 post

Product codes: http://www.yssusa.com/product-code-explain.html

M = Rear Mono Shock

Z = Emulsion Gas Shock Absorber

X = External Reservoir On Hose Gas Shock Absorber; see note below

366 = Piston 36 mm & Shaft 16 mm

380 = length of shock

T = Thread Spring Pre-Load

R = Rebound Adjustable

L = Length Adjustable

Important note: “If the X is the second digit on the part number then it means that it has the remote reservoir for example MX366-305TRCL-23YSS. MZ366-380TRL-X advertised on eBay is the base shock without reservoir” post

What spring rates are available?

56-85-215 85 N/mm, 485 lbs/in
46-115-220 Brooks 115 N/mm, 657 lbs/in <==Stock
56-130-230 Brooks 130 N/mm, 742 lbs/in

Note the Brooks pages list these as “Nm”. This is impossibly stiff; they must be Newton-Millimeters as I have listed them above post.

Note the Fox 598 lbs/in spring produces 3.3 inches of sag for a 225 lb riding weight with the stock 230F linkage; see below

Where can you actually get a YSS reservoir shock with compression adjustment?

YSS USA. Klaus Huenecke (EPM Performance Imports, 732-786-9777, site) the US importer can build the shock with various options listed below.

Firefox Racing UK. “YSS shock by itself with shipping is roughly $320, depending on the rate of exchange. Delivered in 6-10 business days. They can also do a remote reservoir on a hose. Roughly $575, shipped.” post

YSS Australia. “A couple of years ago I had Walter from YSS in Australia make me the same unit with adjustable compression (reservoir) and I'm still using it today.” - Landerz post

Is it possible to get high and low speed compression damping adjustment, like the Fox Podium? Yes! Note the ‘W’ code means “High-Low Speed Compression Adjustable” and the US importer states this is an available option.

Is it possible to get hydraulic pre-load adjustment? Yes, according to the US importer.

What about a piggyback reservoir? Yes, according to the US importer. But airbox mods will be required based on the CRF250R install which is similar (below). The hose option seems much better.

Where and how can I mount the reservoir? To the left of the starter on the frame. Landerz built a custom bracket. BTR uses hose clamps for the XR250R shock reservoir.

Where else could I mount the reservoir? Inside the airbox, or with a long hose, on the subframe to the rear.

What is the hose angle for the CRF230F? About 9:30 O’clock based on Landerz photo above and BTR’s XR250R build (below).

How long should the hose be? Landerz’ YSS unit has quite a long hose, yet he can still mount it to the frame next to the starter. The XR250R and Fox hoses are short and direct:

^^^ The XR250R hose is 192 mm from center of banjo to center of banjo. The Fox hose is 129 mm from side of shock to side of reservoir. Note the specific XR250R shock above has not been installed on a 230F. But BTR’s builder set it up to fit. Compare to photos of BTR setup below.

What about rebuild parts? The US importer states that “Rebuild parts are available from us if needed.”

YSS section: 14 October; 5 March; 17 February 2019; 8 December 2018

Special thanks to GavMac78 for contributions to this section

230F: Other Bolt-on shock options

Hagon shock

The Hagon is a popular emulsion shock with a single adjustment for both rebound and compression damping.

Hagon M63051 purchased by JXG from Bruce Triplett in 2014. Replaced with Fox Podium in 2016. A few notes...

Stock spring rider weight claimed by Hagon: 75-100 Kg (165 to 220 lbs)

This is a very wide range: “The nominal out of the box spring rate is for riders from 165 - 220 LBS, which I personally do not believe to be accurate.. One spring does not fit riders (with proper sag) ranging from 165 to 220 LBS.” http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1139684-fox-shock/page-13

Typically the sheet that comes from Bruce Triplett states that a Hagon stock spring is 9 KG = 503 lbs/inch

But Brandon at HyGear called Hagon in the UK on 9/8/16 and they gave him a spring rate 56 lbs less:

Stock spring rate: 80 kg/cm = 8 kg/mm = 447 lbs/inch = 50 Nm
Free length: 10 inches = 254 mm
ID = 1.9 inches = 48.2 mm

Why is the Hagon stock spring even softer than the Honda stock spring at 502 lbs/inch (post)? Unknown. But keep in the mind the CRF230F is intended for lighter riders.

Falcon 1 analysis. “At the time I purchased the Hagon shock from Bruce Triplett my body weight was 215 LBS, and I was clearly too heavy for the Hagon factory spring to achieve the proper sag. I had to adjust the Hagon shock eight (8) turns to get the proper 3 inches of race sag. Hagon's Spring Adjustment instructions advises not to exceed six (6) complete turns, so obviously the Hagon shock spring is not intended for 215 - 220 LB riders.

That said, I currently weigh 155 - 160 LBS (lost 60 LBS) since I purchased the shock, it works flawless for my current body weight. post

I could not acquire the correct static/race sag until I was around 180-185 LBS.” post

Bottom line: To achieve correct static and ride sag, heavier riders will need a heavier spring.

Hyperco spring options for the Hagon: 475, 500, 525, 550 lbs/inch. $110 plus shipping from HyGear post

(Note there are at least two posts stating the stock springs work perfectly for 200 lb riders. But no sag numbers are provided.)

What about rebuild parts? Apparently parts are not available and a rebuild means shipping your shock to the UK. Keep this in mind if you plan to do a lot of riding.

Update 2018. Hagon UK no longer shows a US distributor but the shock is available from http://brucessuspension.net/ for $465 including shipping. (In 2014 the price was $340.)

Race Tech

G3-S custom series shock post is $1,099 or without a remote reservoir for $799 post

^^ Race Tech G3-S custom series photo courtesy of Chad Walsh

HyperPro

HyperPro is “is said to be a top of the line shock and YSS shares a lot of the same components.” post

Australian store

WORX

WORX is reportedly still in business post, Facebook page. “Have used a Worx remote reservoir rear shock for years on my 230 and it works at least as well as my Hagon does.” - Adnohguy post

Ohlins

Ohlins is an expensive option and little has been reported about this shock on the 230F post

^^^ WORX and stock shock. Photo courtesy of Ness le French

^^^ WORX and Ohlins shocks. Photo courtesy of Ness le French

Installation slide show with lots of pix

Fox Podium Shock

High and low speed compression damping, rebound damping.

JUNE 2017 The Podium is no longer available: BTR post

See below for sag recommendations, the settings JXG used, and results...

Modified shock options

What about revalving the stock shock?

“I have been running a Hlebo revalved shock for over 5 years on my 150F. Way better than stock, but I Guarantee it's no Works, Hagon, or Fox shock. It's right on the verge of being acceptable. My Triplett damper rods make that same shock unacceptable.” - Adnohguy post

“We had a Hlebo shock for quite a few years. ... When I bought my buddy a Hagon he really didn't think it would be that much better. He was pleasantly surprised and pleasantly wrong. Way more comfort, way more traction, way more braking, way more acceleration. Way more... Hlebo very good... Hagon way better...” - VortecCPI post

Stock shock internal mods: brief note here

XR250R shock, 1986-up

by BTR and Mixxer

A classic reservoir shock from the golden age of enduro bikes, BTR has stated with mods this is the best shock he has ever ridden on a CRF230F.

What is it? Pro-Link Kayaba single shock with spring preload, 20-position compression and 20-position rebound damping adjustability; 10.6 inches travel

Stock spring rate of XR250R shock?

1986 to 1987: 9.1 = 508 lbs/inch BTR post
1988 to 1995: 9.3 = 519 lbs/inch BTR post
1996 to 2004: 10.7 = 600 lb spring BTR post post
Year???? : 9.9 = 554 lbs/in post

BTR leads for ‘86 springs:

“Old pre-89 XR600 spring should fit the ones with remote canister.”

Cannon: year not listed

85 XR350R “may fit”

Cannon: model not listed

92 XL250L “direct fit”

Cannon: model not listed

1986 XR250R stock spring measured on 8 December 2018 by JXG

Length = 214 mm
ID = 55 mm
OD = 75 mm
Rate = 9.1 = 508 lbs/inch, probably

Sources for springs

BBR does not list any XR springs
Cannon Racecraft has springs for 1996-2004: 11 to 12.6
Eibach USA may have springs site
Eibach UK Brook Suspension appears to have springs for 1986 to 1995 but they are heavy: 644 and 672 lbs/inch
Factory Connection does not seem to have any XR springs
RaceTech has springs for 2004 and up. These are available in 526, 549 or 599 lb/in spring rates - OhSooD post

Brook Suspension:

If you are going to need a heavier spring, try to get a 1996 or later shock as springs are more available.

“Re-valved and rebuilt by Litz Suspension / Racing of Tennessee... Steve Litz is a great guy to deal with .. fast turnaround and great work.. he's been doing this stuff a long time and doing it well...” - see Mixxer BunnZilla Build

“Mine has been revalved to be slightly stiffer. Raises bike up, works perfect for light or heavy riders. ... For the 1986-up XR250R / XL250 shock it is a 5 minute mod to put a small notch in in the frame (Top) bracket.” - BTR post

Also may need to bend the "cup" back and install spacers on the right side.

The reservoir hose needs to be set around 9:30 o’clock to pass out to where it can be mounted to the frame. Here are the hose angles that BTR uses, photographed in his facility:

Note that when the shock is rebuilt the reservoir cap should be left off. This way if the hose needs to be turned slightly and leaks, the shock can be pumped up with a high-pressure bicycle pump. A little air won’t hurt since air is mostly nitrogen. Ask the rebuilder what the pressure should be before doing this.

CRF250R shock by Doogee57

^^^ 2005 CRF250R shock does not have a remote reservoir and thus requires mods to the airbox area. Other specs: “Std. wgt. 5.3 kg/mm spring. Spring o.d. is 3.56". Bolt, center to center, shock length is right at 19.5". Top bearing width is .788" (20mm) and bottom clevis width is .795" (also 20mm). Both ends use a 10mm bolt diameter.” - Doogee57 post and photo above

Special feature: XR250 shock external reservoir bracket -- June 2020

Originator/inventor: daled

^^^ Build and photo by MI Dirt Biker

MI Dirt Biker writes:

“The following additional items are needed to use the bracket: M6 x 16mm long pinch bolt & M8 x 25mm long mounting bolt. I used socket head cap screws.

For mounting the rear shock, two spacers are needed for the top shock mount. I used McMaster Carr p/n: 92871A358.

Use the XR250 lower mounting bolt for the bottom mounting.

External reservoir mounting instructions: Just above the sprocket is an M8 bolt and nut on what I call the upper rear engine mount...extract the bolt and replace with the M8 x 25mm....make sure you like the angle of the bracket and tighten the new bolt and original nut...you will have to slide the starter motor back to gain access to the pinch bolt.

Once you have the position of the clamp where you want it, tighten the mounting bolt through the side hole -- once the reservoir is re-installed, you cant get to this bolt any longer.

It helps to slide the starter motor back when tightening the pinch bolt.

A PDF dimensional drawing and STEP file is here

Thread in TT: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1268551-installing-xr250r-shock/

Special thanks to MI Dirt Biker for assembling and contributing this material

Above added by JXG on 21 June 2020

CR85R shock by RickyRacer

CR85R shock has a 14mm shaft, piggy back reservoir, compression and rebound adjustment and has aftermarket pistons available post

Spring: Used a 1989 XR600R shock spring with ID grinding: 10 KG = 550 lbs/in

Length: 15.25 inches yields 11 inches travel with stock CRF230F linkage post, post

Shims: “already feels much better than the xr600r shock I was using!!!!” post

^^^ CR85R photo courtesy of RickyRacer

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/941885-crf230f-rear-shock-alternatives/

1989 XR600R shock

“I'm using a 1989 XR600R shock and have been playing with two stage valving on it. I love it. It's getting much closer now.” post [<==link seems to be wrong]

^^^ Photo courtesy of WERNER1 from this very detailed post

What is the stock spring rate? It is reportedly 9.8 kg/mm which is 549 lbs/inch post

Shock specs and weights info

Specifications by Chuck post

JXG updates: 28 February 2023; 22 March 2018; updated and reorganized on 11 September 2018. Updates: 7, 6 December; 20, 3 October; 30 September 2018. Reorganized into Bolt-on and Modified sections 8 December 2018; choice table 26 February 2019; shock weights 3 March 2019; Chuck’s specs 23 May 2019; updates 14 October 2019; 11 November 2019; 17 July 2022

Threads:

Link: http://bit.ly/2M8Zo76

What is the range of sag recommendations?

Bruce explains the duct tape method. RaceTech has a slightly more complex method that averages two measurements.

Stock forks

Front travel* = 9.2 inches = 233 mm

Rear travel = 8.9 inches = 226 mm

* caveat about rated travel and actual travel post

CRF per VortecCPI 5/27/12 (link): “I too thought my bike came back with too much race sag but they explained a woods bike needs more sag to accommodate the ever-changing trail conditions. More sag allows the wheels the ability to better follow the terrain.”

Front: 22%-25% race sag (CRF230F = 2.02"-2.38")

10/18/15 (link): “If Free Sag is between 5% and 10% of total travel spring rate is within range. For the CRF230F this means Free Sag [static sag] should be between 0.45" and 0.90".

Rear: 30%-33% race sag (CRF230F = 2.70"-3.00")

10/18/15 (link): “If Free Sag [static sag] is between 5% and 10% of total travel spring rate is within range. For the CRF230F this means Free Sag should be between 0.45" and 0.90". If Free Sag is less than 0.45" the spring rate is too low. If Free Sag is more than 0.90" the spring rate is too high.”

CRF per Chuck (link):

Rear Static Sag should be between 8-11% of travel (CRF230F = 0.7 - 1)
Rear Rider Sag should be between 28-31% of travel. (CRF230F = 2.5 - 2.8)

“However some, including Dwight Rudder, suggest rear rider sag as high as 33-34%: 2.9 to 3.0 inches

“There are two ways of measuring rider sag which may explain the different recommendations: 1. With the rider seated, and 2. With the rider standing. The latter places less rider weight on the rear suspension resulting in lower sag values than seated.”

Why measure sag while standing? “The reason for standing is simple - it is consistent. Seats on dirt bikes are very long. If the rider sits on the seat in different locations it will throw the measurement off.” RT And if you stand a lot while riding.

Why measure sag while sitting? If you don’t stand much?

CRF rear race sag should be 3.25 (36%) per Bruce Triplett, 9/6/16

CRF rear race sag should be 3 (34%) per Bruce Triplett, 2018 instruction sheet

Suspension tuning by Bruce Triplett

Suspension tuning by Bruce Triplett: Reformatted web version for easier reading (Google Doc version). Section on Adjusting in the field.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/857373-how-to-rebuild-a-non-rebuildable-crf150f-rear-shock/?do=findComment&comment=18436155

[*] Can the non-rebuildable stock shock be rebuilt?

JXG note: This may be an option for a low cost project, such as a youth bike where suspension is not critical

Front end geometry for fork swaps

Before doing a fork swap, it is good to capture the relationship between the axle and the bike’s steering head.

This gives you a standard geometry measurement independent of the specific triple clamps, forks, axle, tire, and tire pressure.

6/24/17: Stock 2008 CRF230F forks with fork tubes even with top triple, caps just above

Axle center to base of steering head / top of bottom triple = 661 mm

This is the easiest measurement to make

Axle center to top of steering head = 834 mm

This is longer and more difficult to make

CRF150RB forks with fork tubes even with top triple, caps just above

Axle center to base of steering head = 652 mm
Axle center to top of steering head = 820

So the 150RB upgrade lowered the front end of the bike by 9 mm relative to stock

XR400R forks with fork tubes up 46 mm above the upper triple

Top of axle clamp down to top of axle = 12 mm
Top of axle clamp down to center of axle = 12 + 8.5 = 20 mm
Bottom triple seam up to base of steering head = 7 mm
Top of axle clamp up to seam = 644
Axle center to base of steering head = 644 + 20 + 7 = 671

So the 400R upgrade raised the front end of the bike by 10 mm relative to stock and raised it 19 mm relative to the 150RB forks.

I do these measurements with a Pittsburgh (Harbor Fright) 4-foot aluminum ruler that has millimeter markings also. The front end is raised so the fork is fully extended.

The top of the right stock axle holder is about 12 mm from the center of the axle, so you can measure from this point and add 12 mm.

Other measurements are good too, e.g. frame to ground with a specific tire and axle to ground with a specific tire. It is a good idea to take pictures of everything so your measurement can be done the same way when you have forgotten key details.

Above 11, 3 November 2018 by JXG

Suspension 1.0 ➤ Gold Valve Emulators - 2014

Suspension 2.0 ➤ Triplett Fork Mod - 2016

Rider weight = 225 lbs with armor and backpack

Spring rate converter

In 2014 I thought Gold Valves were a significant improvement over stock. In 2016 I decided it was time to upgrade again.

Removing the damper rods

You can either buy new damper rods or use the stock ones. What you cannot do is reuse DRs that have already been drilled out for Gold Valves. Bruce cannot braze up these large holes.

Overseas tip: ask Bruce if you can buy damper rods from Rocky Mtn ATV & MC and have them shipped to him. New damper rods may be cheaper than shipping, and no down time.

So I bought a new set of DRs to send Bruce, but still had to get my old ones out.

Here is the process by VortecCPI, with my comments in bullets:

1. Loosen DR bolts: you will probably need to use an impact wrench.

I have a HF electric impact wrench specifically for fork bolts and countershaft nuts. And lug nuts. And more.

Make sure the hex socket is completely in the bolt
Hold the fork tube and power the wrench for just a 1/2-second

1.5 Loosen upper fork pinch bolts

2. Loosen fork tube caps

3. Support bike with front tire off ground

4. Remove fork tube caps

5. Remove fork springs

6. Lower front and collapse forks

7. Place catch containers under DR bolts

8. Remove DR bolts - Drain oil - Do not pump!!!

9. Fasten a magnet to a wood or PVC rod

10. Use rod and magnet to remove DRs

This has never worked for me even with a strong magnet taped to a PVC pipe. The DR weighs 11 oz and it is in a narrow steel tube. I remove the forks and turn them over to drop the DRs out.

“If the DR cups move it will just be off center. I have never ran across a set of forks that had enough room for them to turn sideways. If they move just take a small screwdriver and reach up through the bolt hole and into the bottom of the DR cup and recenter it. Then slide the fork slider all the way to the top (bottomed). This will trap the cup and keep it centered” - Motoman354 post. JXG: I have done this twice with no problem.

Installing the Triplett mods

Seals? If you don’t replace them, count on a leak soon; see Fork seal replacement.

What you need:

A fork oil level tool is very helpful. The rubber gasket in the medical syringe will not resist petroleum products. Lube it with silicone O-ring grease to make it move. Then don’t let the gasket actually touch the removed oil. If it does, wash it in detergent before storing.

New crush washers are not a bad idea

One quart of synthetic motor oil. Bruce specified mine as 5W-20

You will use about 850 ml. So you can use 100 ml at the beginning to flush out the forks if the fluid has not been changed for awhile. Or you may want to get a second quart.

“Make sure his drilled holes did not leave any burrs on the inside of the rods that may decide to come loose and cause major internal problems with them floating around in the fork oil. - Adnohguy post

When the mods come back, you get an instruction sheet. Here are my notes and clarifications on Bruce’s numbered items:

13.

Have a secure position to hold the fork so it does not fall over

15.

I like to bend a metal gauge at the desired length:

Drop springs in with the cut end first, then the PVC spacers, then install the caps and torque to specs which you can find in the Service Manual (see Resources section).

Bruce has a particular approach to fork installation. The longer and more clear version is on his website. The critical step is rotating the axle. But on the CRF the axle does not rotate: it screws in and stops.

You may have to loosen and slide the fork boot down

The short story: What springs do I need?

The goal is to get the right sag. My goal was rider = 2.3 inches, static = 1 inch.

Rider weight = 225 lbs with armor and backpack

What I started with:

Triplett standard cut of OE springs: 3 inches off and PVC spacer
Above in each fork
Result: Rider sag = 3.2 inches

What I ended up with:

BBR: 0.55 kg/mm, BRM-650-HCF-2305 Summit $87
Left fork: Triplett cut spring + 3 inch spacer + 1/2-inch spacer
Right fork: BBR spring + 1/4-inch spacer
Result: Static sag = 1 inch, Race sag = 2 inches

Post For more details, see the section below...

Sag and Springs

Rider weight = 225 lbs with armor and backpack

Front suspension version 2.x

Triplett “GEN II” damping rod mods
Triplett standard cut of OE springs: 3 inches off and 3 inch PVC spacer
Above in each fork
Oil weight = 5W-20 synthetic automotive oil
Oil level = 5 inches
I chose to go with version 2.3

BBR: 0.55 kg/mm, BRM-650-HCF-2305 Summit $87
Left fork: Triplett cut spring + 3 inch spacer + 1/2-inch spacer
Right fork: BBR spring + 1/4-inch spacer
Static sag = 1 inch, Race sag = 2 inches

Details are here under the Forks tab

Dialing it in. This chart shows how far off my front sag was and how it ended up at the right place:

The labels are cut off above. Here they are:

Added 1/2 inch spacer in right fork only
2.1: Added 1/2 inch spacer in left fork also
2.2: BBR in right, no spacers
2.3: BBR in right, 1/4-inch spacer

2.4: 5/13/17: Left: BBR, Right: BBR + 1/4-inch spacer. Tried this for carrying a chainsaw on the front. Seemed to work well but I did not measure the sag before doing the CRF150R fork swap.

Is it OK to have different setups in each fork? “No problem at all and we have been doing it forever.” - post

Updated 2/10/20

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/3bkTi1o

Suspension 2.1 ➤ Fox Podium Shock - 2016

BTR: “I spent 8 months developing the new gen Fox shock for the 230F. They shipped me the first prototype shock. It looked like a pre-production shock that they could never sell to the public. They charged me 500 bucks for it with no deal considering my 8 months work. I must have removed that shock 30 times I kept returning it for valve changes. Also tried different spring rates. That shock is still on my bike only thing I will say. Yes it works great since I have 4 or 5 230s running XR shocks they also work great.” post

JXG’s Rear suspension version 2.1

Fox 1.5 Podium RC2
Spring for 191‐220lbs (534‐1137), fall 2016:

Spring marked as: 10.71 kg/mm x 55.8 = 598 lbs/in = 67 N/meter = 105 N/mm

Per CrfsOnly, Sept 2017:

New number for 171-190 lbs is 534-1139, 9.82 kg/mm = 548 lbs/in
New number for 191‐220lbs is 534-1140, 10.71 kg/mm = 597 lbs/in

(Hagon stock spring rate: 80 kg/cm = 8 kg/mm = 447 lbs/in)

Concise summary

Hagon any weight = 447 lbs/in
Fox 171-190 lbs rider = 548 lbs/in
Fox 191‐220 lbs rider = 598 lbs/in

Preload: Seven total turns from first thread engagement, 6 threads visible

Static sag = 0.66 inch, Rider sag = 3.3 inches

This is 37% rider sag, which is a bit high
But this is the heaviest spring Fox sold

Initial settings for shock breakin (version 2.1):

CD slow: delivered = 10 stiff (CW), goes to 25, set to 4 (16% of max)
CD fast: delivered = 15 stiff (CW), goes to 27, set to 2 (7% of max)
RD: delivered = 16 stiff (CW), goes to 28, set to 4 (14% of max)
Details are here under the Shock Settings tab

Rear version 2.1 based on BagLock1. "I run my Fox Podium X with as little damping as possible. About 4 clicks of low-speed compression and 1 or 2 clicks of high-speed compression. Rebound has as few clicks as possible for the given terrain. Fox also told me to run it ‘loose’ with as little damping as possible.”

BTR comment on break-in. “I found it took a very long time for break in [the Podium RC2]. I don’t go by hours that’s for unreliable bikes. So it took about 8 rides at over 100 miles a day. It just kept getting better every time I rode it. My Comp slow/Hi speed set very soft love it.” “I forgot to add. When you adjust the rebound more hard you will find out you then need one click less on comp.”

BTR 2018. “After riding testing the Fox shock over two years now. We run the 550 lbs/in spring We are between 160/165 pounds [without gear]. Compression from full soft to 1 or two turns out. Hi speed Adjuster full soft then out 1/4 turn. I need check rebound then I will post. Note when you turn rebound adjuster harder it also makes Comp stiffer. We run sag no rider 1 in or 5/8-inch (0.625)” post

See Frickin’ Jim Episode 11 for his settings

Riding impressions - 2016: Tripplett fork mods and Fox shock

My first hint that the bike had changed was a test ride around the block. No more fork dive when braking. You don't realize how bad this is until it is gone.

Started up the slightly rocky trail and noticed that the front end was staying heads up and going where I pointed it. Like the absence of brake dive, you just can't appreciate this until you feel it.

Getting into the rougher terrain, the front end continued to just go where pointed even in steep loose stones. I had been riding these exact trail sections all summer and the difference was amazing.

With proper static and race sag, the front wheel now rolls over obstacles instead of sliding out or bouncing off. It seems counterintuitive but the physics is this: Appropriate stiffness equals plushness.

Meanwhile, what about the Fox? It was like sitting on a pillow. Going from the Hagon stock spring at 447 lbs/in to the Fox at 598 lbs/in made the difference. With dual-speed compression (DSC), the Fox is like a two-band radio. One compression damping circuit handles the high frequency inputs while the other handles the low frequency inputs.

Fast bumps and slow bumps, the Fox just sucks up the energy and turns it into fluid movement and heat. Phenomenal. I have ridden a KTM 350EXC-F and Beta Xtrainer on these same trails and my CRF230F is now the plushest of all. (But I would guess the other bikes could be further tuned for my weight and riding.)

If you ride in rocks, the stock shock is just frightening. It is like a roulette wheel or random number generator, pitching you sideways. Point and pray is what I remember about it. A noted CRF tuner told me the first time he rode his CRF230F he thought it had been sabotaged.

The Hagon is a big improvement at $430. But it is a simple shock with gas and oil mixed together in an emulsion. There is a single damping adjustment for both compression and rebound. In rocks or heavy terrain where there is high and low frequency shock movement, there is simply no comparison with the Fox and its three adjustments.

If you don't ride in these conditions, then you will be quite happy with the Hagon. If you have not compared the Podium and Hagon on the same rough trails, you may be quite happy with the Hagon.

Pretty soon I noticed I was riding along stones on the edge of the singletrack, just to feel the absence of sensation and visualize the fluid movement in the shock. Entertaining. And the reduction of fatigue over the miles was noticeable.

Approaching a familiar rock garden, I noticed that I tensed up preparing for a thrashing. But the Fox just floated through. Yes, there were still bumps. It's not magic. But I would estimate there is 25 to 50% less energy going into my joints and spine with the current setup.

Much of the credit goes to the Podium and its reservoir. But again, I've learned the hard way you have to have the correct spring rate to produce the correct static and rider sag--the spring is the primary thing. First order control. If the first order control is wrong, nothing else will compensate.

The front end is not quite at the same performance level. After all, it is a damping rod fork even with Triplett mods. On sharp edges, it is harsh because it does not have the high and low frequency circuits to deal with both low and high velocity movements. But still a big improvement from stock springs and Gold Valves.

Steep loose ledgy downhills were another revelation. Instead of sliding out, the front end stayed under control. One particular series of ledges has always resulted in bucking and more than one wipeout on the last step. With the proper ratio of static and race sag, the front spring accomodated the bumps without packing down. Whole different experience.

The other big Podium difference is in jumping. I like to do a lot of slow 6 inch to 18 inch jumps--probably not a good idea for health and safety but I love it. The Hagon has been hard on my back, even wearing a lumbar belt. The Fox with its high velocity circuit is like landing on a beanbag chair. The visceral pleasure of these landings was the capstone of an amazing ride. (Again, velocity here means movement of the shock not the bike.)

What I've learned:

-Sag is a pain to work with, but it is critical. I had been riding half a bike because I would not bite the bullet and get my static and race sag in order with spring upgrades and sag adjustments.

-For riding in rocks and rough terrain, upgrading to a multi-circuit (high and low velocity movement) shock is a complete game changer even at modest speeds. If you ride hard, you don't have to ride fast to see improvements that you will feel and enjoy.

-If you jump, your body needs a high velocity damping circuit to absorb that energy before it goes into your spine

-There is a lot of focus on suspension upgrades for racing. What about for aging? Few race, all age. If you are putting lots of hours into rough riding, all that energy is going somewhere. The body damage is significant. (I can't ride a hardtail mountain bike on trails any more--I need 5 inches of Fox air shock under my spine.)

At this point, $700 for a shock seems worthwhile to me. It has transformed my riding experience in a way that I would not have believed possible. The reduction of fatigue is worth the price alone. And the reduction of body impact will help keep me riding for many years to come.

One final note: It is interesting that Beta offers the Fox RC3 as an upgrade on $9000+ machines. I would guess that Fox is at the top of the game with the DSC. Thanks to Fox and BTR for making the Podium available for the CRF230F. http://www.thumperta...ox-shock/page-1

Posted at http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1207840-podium-triplett-bbr-new-bike/

Ride photos are here: There are small captions at the bottom.

Afterthoughts, March 2017: With more comparisons riding cartridge forks (AJP PR4 and Beta Xtrainer) I now am less enthusiastic about my current CRF setup. Yes, it is improved but in rocky conditions the forks especially are just not plush.

More experiments

Suggestions:

“I recommend you try the forks without the one-half inch spacer at the BBR side.”
“+1 no spacer on BBR side = less harshness. My weight & My forks are similar to yours except for Cannon springs and I went from oil level of 5", to 4.5 and now soon to 4" for more travel. Very hard to bottom forks as is now. I have STD OEM preload on both sides. No harshness at all.

Results. Tried Forks 2.2 = no spacer above BBR. Mostly the same trails again. On sharp edges it was a bit more compliant and less harsh. But it seemed like maybe I gave up a little bit of precise tracking in loose turns. I'm not sure. Need to do some back to back comparisons, since it is easy to remove and install the spacer. post

Suspension 3.0 ➤ CRF150RB Forks - 2017

This large project followed the definitive Ramz guide. See Fork upgrade options for the rationale for this “Zone 3” upgrade.

References

CRF150R/RB Service Manual 2007-2014 PDF
Owner’s Manual has adjustment information for racers - it is quite interesting.
Documentation Kit includes all relevant pages from 2007-2014 CRF150R/RB Owner and Service Manual PDF

Which forks to use? Ramz Tip: When you buy, try to find out the exact model and year of the forks. There are slight differences in spring rates and oil levels between the R and RB, and 2007-11 and after 2011. See table in Service Manual, p. 1-9.

Worksheet based on Ramz Part List, organized from top to bottom
➤ = decision to make


Handlebars	➤ Need to purchase 9/8-inch bars? The bar clamps will be 19 mm or 0.75 inches higher than CRF230F stock. If you have a 1-inch to 9/8-inch converter / riser, than you will need a 9/8-inch to 9/8-inch riser.
Triple clamp	➤ Bearings? Given the cost of this project, may be worthwhile replacing while you have things apart. See Steering stem how-to 91015-425-832 x 2 Partzilla $19, RMAM $25 53214-KA3-732 Top dust seal Partzilla $4 53214-MCJ-751 Bottom dust seal Partzilla $3 Grease: “Use the specified grease (urea based multi-purpose grease with extreme pressure agent) for the tapered roller bearings and dust seals: - Excelite EP2 (Kyodo Yushi) or equivalent - Stamina EP2 (Shell) [S&A] or equivalent” ➤ Steering stop Ramz $35*. Note this is a high-precision machined part that fits exactly. ➤ Stem options: The CRF230F stem is too short and welded in place, so another stem must be used post Option A: Machine CRF150R stem to fit CRF230F steering head Press stem out Machine bottom triple clamp so that stem is countersunk 6-8 mm (post) Turn down stem to fit bottom bearing Press stem back in Option B: XR250 stem replacement Press CRF150R stem out Press XR250 stem in 53200-KT1-770
Forks	➤ Seals? 51490-GBF-J21 x 2 Partzilla $15, RMAM $16 (Again, if the forks are used consider replacing. If not, they will surely begin leaking soon.) ➤ Fork springs Factory Connection CRF150R/150R Exp 07-09, 12-17 IIN: 0.26 to 0.40 PDF CrfsOnly $114 Cannon Racecraft (require sanding of guides to fit) 32448: 0.22-.50 even rates PDF Dimensions ➤ Suspension fluid: 1 qt Ramz tried 5W and now uses 10W Amsoil #10 $14/qt Bel-Ray HVI 10W Partzilla $15/qt RMAM $13/qt ➤ Air bleeders? See What about air bleeders below. ➤ Gold Valves??? post CrfsOnly $180
Fender	➤ Fender assembly for CRF150R/RB 61100-KSE-000 Partzilla $41, RMAM $43 Bolt (6x16) x4 93404-06016-08 Partzilla $1
Fork protectors	➤ Fork protectors Right 51610-GBF-680ZB or 51610-KSE-A50 Left 51620-GBF-680ZB or 51620-KSE-A50 Bolt x6 90113-MAC-780
Brake	➤ Brake hose 45125-KRN-A31. You may not need this hose. My stock hose fits even with a chainsaw rack. UPDATE: See here New Partzilla $60, RMAM does not stock Galfer FK003D412F eBay search: not a common item ➤ Caliper bracket Kit CRF230F04 - Ramz $125*
Axle	➤ Axle Axle 44301-KSE-000 Partzilla $17 Nut (14mm) 90305-197-013 Washer (15mm) 90510-KY1-000 (Caliper bracket kit includes spacers: “The axle spacers are used to mount the stock CRF230F front wheel to the stock CRF150R forks using the stock CRF150R axle.”)

*These kits are manufactured by a small startup company in Colorado. Ramz handles distribution as a service to the CRF community, but all proceeds go to the manufacturer.

What about air bleeders?

In a cartridge fork, air pressure or vacuum builds up: see How-To [dead link]. You can bleed the forks with a screwdriver. Do this with the front forks fully extended post, either on a stand or pulling up the front end of the bike:

There are a couple of options for tool-less button bleeders:

Works Connection 26-300. Amazon, $25; CrfsOnly $25

Some poor reviews: they leak?
BTR says they are good

Motion Pro Motosport $14, RMAM does not stock

BTR says Motion Pro’s are junk
Motosport reviewer says does not fit CRF150RB

There are two problems with these buttons: they seem to have serious quality problems, and fitting them into the limited space of the fork cap may be difficult--see the photo above.

UPDATE 2018: See Fork bleeders: Worth the trouble?

Finding forks to swap

Here is the 2008 CRF150RB front end I purchased off eBay:

CRF150R has more modern and conventional shim stack in the midvalve post

10.8 inches travel, per link

Parts diagram for this fork

What is the issue with stem length? [added 10 December 2017]

The CRF150R stem is too short to fit through the frame of the CRF230F with enough threads left over. But it is close and might appear to work. Below is with no allowance for bottom bearing. The bottom bearing is out so the triple is flat against the frame:

But as soon as you add a slight allowance for the bottom bearing... there are no threads at the top. Note top bearing is in place in this photo:

CRF230F is on the right, you can see how much longer the stem is:

The CRF150R stem can be pressed upward or a longer stem substituted. More on that below.

What is the change in handlebar height?

Top of triple clamp to midline of handlebar clamp:

CRF150R = 54 mm (Clamp is for 9/8-inch bars)

Mine came with a 3/4-inch riser also

CRF230F = 35 mm (Clamp is for 1-inch bars)
The CRF150R is 19 mm taller = 0.75 inches

What is the effect of fork oil level?

From Owners Manual, p. 101

Link: http://bit.ly/2OY77aC

CRF150RB Fork Swap - Step by Step

Part 1: Replacing the fork seals and installing springs

Tools and workspace

A vise with soft jaws is highly recommended to hold the forks and avoid drops and spills
This is a messy job: put down newspaper on workbench and floor
A bucket with drilled lid is very handy for holding components while they drain: see Ramz photo
(optional) Fork Oil Level Tool. Tusk $16 RMAM.

I followed the process in Ramz and the service manual.

1.1 Disassembly. After loosening the adjuster screw and fork cap (17 mm), the damper rod must be separated (15 mm):

Notes:

Letting the parts drain thoroughly reduces the mess later
The adjuster rods have a tiny tip. You may want to set them aside carefully rather than put them in the bucket. If the bucket falls over, etc. the tips could be damaged easily.

1.2 Fork seal replacement. With the forks disassembled, I replaced the fork seals because one was leaking slightly. In the photo below, the dust seal has been pried up and the retaining clip is visible inside the fork tube. Under this is the oil seal itself. See p. 12-18 for details.

The left slider bushing had a slight ridge of Teflon material. I sanded this down with fine sandpaper.

Installing the new oil seals was very difficult even using the Tusk driver: see Fork Seals. It may help to start the seal very evenly all around.

Note: I did not disassemble the fork damper to count shims, etc. But at a minimum check the compression adjusters to make sure they click smoothly.

1.3 Spring fitting. The Cannon Racecraft springs are a little too small to fit on the plastic spring guide. A tiny bit of material can be easily removed. There should be no resistance between the guide and spring. I used a coarse file then sandpaper to make sure there were no shavings left:

Note: The original CRF150RB springs each have one scribe mark so this means standard 0.36 springs were in the forks (p. 97)

1.4 Fork oil filling and level

This can get messy so a vise really pays off. Below I am using a large syringe to measure the fork fluid.

Note: When the Belray arrived I realized it said nothing about forks. But I found the following at link: “AMSOIL STM #10 Replaces The Following Lubricants: Belray HVI 10W”

While less precise, I prefer to use a fork oil level tool:

Note: Be sure to wash the rubber plunger in dish detergent and it will last longer. If you leave oil on it, the rubber will quickly deteriorate. Even with washing it can start to get sticky. I coat it with silicone O-ring grease between uses.

IMPORTANT UPDATE: It is critical to get all the air out by following the Ramz process exactly. Ramz adds by email: “I usually let the forks sit overnight after filling with fluid and pumping air. I adjust fluid height the next day. Even if I'm in a rush, I wait 30 minutes or so between filling/pumping and then checking.”

1.5 Reassembly. Getting the damping rods up through the springs is a bit tricky. I tried the Ramz method but decided I prefer to use a wire.

Here is the setup. First, notice the wire at right is holding the fork tube up so I can get to the top of the damping rod.

Loosen the lock nut slightly so that the wire can be wrapped around the damper rod. Run about 2 feet of stiff through the spring. Secure the end to a stopper like a wrench so it won’t pull through.

Now wrap the wire tightly under the screw. The wire and wrap need to be strong enough to resist several pounds of force:

Insert the spring into the fork and carefully pull the damper rod up with the wire. Once it gets to the top, carefully squeeze the spring down just enough that you can get the fork cap on. At this point the spring will not fall back down:

Remove the wire, tighten the lock nut down against the spring guide (not too much), and tighten the fork cap on using two wrenches as explained by Ramz.

2.0 The triple clamps

This section is a little intense because of the bearing race installs. Study the manual.

2.0 Remove the old forks and triples. But first, make a couple measurements so you know the geometry. In my case,

Top of axle collar to base of steering head / top of bottom triple = 647

Top of axle collar to top of steering head = 820 mm

2.1 Machine shop work. I decided to do Option A: machine the CRF150RB lower triple and stem. A rider / machinist did this part for me. He pressed out the stem, then turned it down so the newly-exposed part would fit the bearing. With the stem in the lathe, he made a discovery. The stem is not straight. He did not measure it, but estimates 0.005 off. This was not good, as it implied the front end has taken a huge hit. Are the forks bent?

I asked him to proceed. Next he milled the 1/4-inch step in the bottom triple. Finally he pressed the stem back in. No heating or cooling was used in these pressing operations. Here is what it looked like:

2.2 Bearing races replacement. I used the budget method in Steering stem how-to. Driving in the top race using the old race as a driver:

2.3 Bearing install. Page 12-28 shows lower bearing installation with a press and special tool. This is not necessary. I installed the lower dust seal, then heated the bearing on an electric stove and it dropped on.

Not quite. I heated the bearing, dropped it on... and realized the dust seal had been forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to heat the bearing with a heat gun and by tapping the stem on the workbench the bearing came off again. Whew. Unfortunately the second time I heated the bearing, I left it on the stove for awhile and the rollers turned blue. Not good. If this was a high speed bearing I would have replaced it. But I decided to proceed.

Here is what we are putting together, from page 12-29 of the manual:

I did not get the ideal grease equivalent, but instead used Jet-Lube 202, a moly-lithium grease that I have used on swingarms. The assembly sequence is shown on page 12-30. And now, the moment of truth...

The stem now reaches through with plenty of threads.

3. Wrapping up

_Snug the top nut

_Install those big golden boingers, making sure all the cables go where they should. Insure that nothing will get pinched by the steering stop.

_Tighten the top nut

_Install the forks

_Install the brake adapter. Be sure to use the round head bolts. The other ones will stick out just enough to hit the brake rotor bolts.

_Install the wheel and axle using the spacers in the kit. Tighten the axle nut and make sure there is no interference with the brake caliper.

I found that one of the little screws holding the black disk stuck out a tiny bit further than the rest. This hit the caliper, so I removed it.

_Ignition switch: Here is how I mounted it

I found that my tire was within a few millimeters of the lift deck, just like with the original forks. So I did not need to use the geometry measurements made earlier.

Now let’s back up a bit. With this new axle we can now do the Bruce Triplett alignment process on his website.

First, remove the wheel again and loosely install the axle.

Here is the process, reformatted. It only takes a few minutes to do and confirms the fork alignment.

This next step is VERY IMPORTANT. This is the PROPER WAY to install forks. ATTENTION – if improperly installed, the forks can’t work to their full potential. First install the left fork (left is determined as if you were sitting on the bike) into the triple clamps. (A little WD 40 sprayed on the fork tubes will make them slide in easier.) The measurement you took before you removed the forks will allow you to re-install the left fork at the proper height.

VERY IMPORTANT – Torque the pinch bolts to factory specs [22 NM]. Next, install the right fork in the triple clamp at approximately the same height as the left fork and LIGHTLY tighten ONLY ONE of the pinch bolts.

This next step is CRITICAL –install the axle into the forks, grab the axle between the left and right fork, and begin rotating the axle. As you rotate the axle, loosen the pinch bolt on the right fork and move the right fork up and down until you locate the place where the axle turns most freely. Now, at this position, torque the pinch bolts to factory specs.

Install the wheel and brakes, and tighten the axle and/or axle nut.

The following does not apply to the CRF15R forks because it does not have axle pinch bolts:

Torque the axle pinch bolts on the LEFT FORK ONLY. Now, you need to work the forks up and down. The best way is to tie the cycle down in/on your trailer, or ride the cycle SLOWLY up and down the driveway, and pump the front brake level several times, making the forks move deep into the travel. Now you can TORQUE the RIGHT axle pinch bolts.

_Install SealSavers... highly recommended.

_Install the fork guards

_Now, the brake hose. Attach it to the fork guard clamp. If you just use the number plate, it is possible the original hose will be long enough. I run a headlight cowling or a chainsaw rack depending on the season, so I may be installing the longer hose.

_Set the compression damping at the base of each fork. There are about 20 clicks on mine. Go full hard, then 7 clicks to soft for the standard setting (page 100)

_Set the rebound damping. Turn all the way to hard, then back out 1-1/4 turns for the standard setting

_Adjust the handlebars

_I made some modifications to the front wiring bundles and key switch; see chainsaw rack.

_Go back over every fastener, making sure everything is tight

_Ride

Many thanks to Ramz for his extensive research, development, and documentation of CRF fork swaps.

Unfinished business?

The stem is bent... but everything turns smoothly
The forks could be bent... but they seem perfect
I overcooked the bearings: Keep an eye on steering quality over time, consider reduced maintenance interval
I used the wrong grease: Try to find equivalent of the Honda recommendation and use it when I service the bearings

The fluid mystery

I followed the Ramz process exactly and Honda recommendations on fluid volume but it didn’t work as expected:

Left fork: Had to remove 45 cc to get around 141 mm down tube, using Tusk syringe system

Right: Had to remove 43 cc to get around 141 mm down tube, using Tusk syringe system

28 July: By email, Ramz provides the only explanation possible: I did not get all the air out. See step 1.4 above for more on how to make sure all the air is removed.

Initial impressions

I weigh 178 lbs. Ride weight is 225 lbs in full armor with hydration pack. Chainsaw takes it up to around 242 lbs.

This was a big project but I was prepared to be disappointed. I thought there could be a 20% improvement that was only apparent over a few rides.

The first test was going off the curb at my house then hitting it straight on at around 10 mph. The results were encouraging. The curb hit was very plush.

Next I went to a rocky area. When riding straight at 8 to 10 inch ledges the fork just absorbs the hit. There is a slight thunk and you are up the ledge.

Doing "monster truck" rolls off of ledges to about 14 inches sometimes (not always) resulted in the sound of something hitting. Not hard, but at full compression there is slight interference.

Inspecting the new fender, there is a small skid mark at the center. And it looks like the GOP3177 (a huge soft tire) width is causing it to brush the sides of the fender. You can see this on the right side of the photo:

But the impact is very plush with no hard bottoming. I don’t consider this slight interference anything to worry about.

Moving on to chunky trails, the forks did well in complex rock gardens with lots of quick impacts:

The forks are much stiffer than stock--but not too stiff--so the bike tends to go where it is pointed.

The 3/4-inch risers that came with the forks put the bars at a good height. I can stand up pretty comfortably. Any higher would be into “Easy Rider” territory.

For really slow trails where the bike is doing a “rocking horse” up and down and over rocks, there was not much difference:

At these very slow speeds, it seems like the oil is moving so slowly through the fork that it doesn’t much matter what valving is present. But even here I think the cumulative reduction in impact over a few hours reduces fatigue.

The 0.42 spring rate seemed to work well both with and without the chainsaw. When descending steep ledgy downhills with the saw on, there is still some bucking. I will try some increased rebound damping for this configuration. (Update on this below: the sag was way off.)

The stock brake hose was long enough with the saw rack; you can see it in the photos above.

Bottom line: Two thumbs up!

More impressions: July 2017

Fire restrictions were lifted and I got to test on familiar chunky trails where I have ridden all of my bikes and a few other’s bikes. The chainsaw was off for this ride. Without same-day, back to back rides, it is always difficult to compare exactly.

With that said, the ride was a bit of a letdown. I felt like the forks handled sharp-edged hits the same as the Triplett “GEN II” mods. For some hits it felt a bit plusher and I think over a day of riding it does make a difference in reduced fatigue. But not a large difference like the step up to Triplett mods. It is possible that tuning will further refine the forks. (28 July: Also, I have discovered that the forks have too much air and not enough fluid in them. See fork fluid mystery above.) Here is how I rate the differences now:

Bottom line: While a fun and interesting project, I currently do not believe the CRF150RB fork swap was cost effective at $900 (!). I reserve the right to change my mind in the future. Post

Project budget

Above: 28 July 2017 by JXG (started 16 June), updated slightly on 10 December 2017

Spring rate 2018

Here is what RaceTech says for CRF150RB with a 225 lb rider (210 plus they add 15 lbs in the calculator):

Some data points:

CRF150RB stock standard is 0.36 springs for 150 to 160 lb rider without gear [p. 101]
BBR springs in my Triplett forks were 0.55 and worked well: correct sag
Cannon springs are available from 0.22 to 0.50 even rates
I started out with 0.42 springs based on TT members comments but I don’t recall seeing any actual sag measurements

And my sag measurements were: Spreadsheet, click on “Forks150” tab at top

See What is the range of sag recommendations here: generally 22 to 25%*

You can see my sag with the Cannon 0.42 springs was 3.2 and it should be more like 2.3.

Update, April 2018. I realized I was using the stock fork travel. For CRF150RB with 10.8 inches travel, the above are 29% and 21% sag (of rated not measured fork travel*)

* When calculating percentages, see this caveat about rated travel and measured travel post

Cannon kindly did a swap for 0.50 springs with these results:

Static sag stayed at 1.6 inches
Rider sag reduced to 2.4 which is good: 22% of rated travel

Below you can see where I was with Triplett mods and BBR springs, how the 0.42 springs first installed in the CRF150RB forks were too soft, and how the 0.50 springs are much closer to the target:

Above: 10 April and 24 January 2018 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2GNQApv

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1111299-ultimate-front-end-conversion-for-crf230f/#comment-12004098

Tuning

No tuning data on the CRF150R/B at http://www.valvinglogic.com/vdb/Level_1_all_sh_records.php?vs_brand=Honda&vs_modelsize=CRF+150&vs_year=All&Submit=Submit

Suspension 4.0 ➤ XR400R Forks (2003 model) - 2018

This project benefited from all the lessons-learned and latest thinking after BTR’s XR400R Build 2 above.

For specs on XR400R forks for different years, see XR400R Reference Info and Fork Springs

The project was a second swap: from a CRF230F with a CRF150RB fork to a 2003 XR400R fork. See comparison photos. So this project is a little different than stock CRF230F to XR400R, but similar enough to be a guide.

UPDATE 2020: The 400R stem no longer needs to be shortened. See Conversion bearing relocating adapter -- this is huge

Five steps:

1. Revalve forks. The XR400R is a 276 lb, 30 HP race bike so the forks need to be revalved for a lighter bike and trail riding.

2. Rebuild forks. It is a good idea to replace the oil and dust seals, and possibly the bushings.

3. Modify and install triple clamps. The 400R stem must be shortened to fit the smaller steering head of the 230F.

4. Convert 230F wheel to fit 400R axle. The bearings must be changed to accomodate the 17 mm 400R axle, and spacers added.

5. Configuration and tuning. Measurements and settings.

Each section has a parts and tools list. The XR400R manuals, reference information, and spring rates are available here.

^^^ XR400 front end from Service Manual, p. 13-0

Base valve modification: Step-by-Step

What I used: 2003 XR400R fork

Note: The 1996-99 XR400R forks have 7 shims instead of 12, a shorter and lighter spring, and the fork spring stop on the damper is totally different (BTR, 3/27/22, UPDATE22)

The base valves control compression damping: see Anatomy of a cartridge fork. Each fork has one in the bottom.

The valves can be removed by inverting the forks: the forks don’t need to be disassembled.

Or this mod can be done as part of the rebuild below; the base valve must be out for the forks to come apart. Here is the procedure.

_Honda recommends replacement brass washers and O-rings. Since my forks are 15 years old I got these and installed them. I found the old washers were 0.92 mm thick and the new ones were 0.97 mm thick. So they do crush. See the parts list.

^^^ Honda refers to the base valve as the “Center Bolt” (p. 13-16). As you will see below, this is a very complex “bolt” -- it is a damping system.

_Set up workspace to hold forks upright without falling over and spraying oil all over. Place shop towel on a good surface so that base valve parts will not roll off and all over the floor. You will not be happy if this happens. Base valve components are NOT available as Honda parts. The whole base valve is about $90.

_Open and close the air bleeder to release any pressure

_Wash out any dirt at the bottom of fork. I used water and a brush, then dried with canned air.

_Clamp fork in vise with soft jaws... or BTR prefers to hold it on his foot. I did this for the second fork and it works fine.

_Confirm which way to switch impact gun for counter-clockwise. You don’t want to tighten the base valve.

_Hit it with 19 mm socket and lift out base valve. You may leave the brass washer behind in the fork. If so fish it out and place it on the base valve.

_Set aside and secure fork so it won’t fall over. Avoid letting the tube drop because the damping rod is not held in place now that the base valve is removed.

^^^ The magical base valve incorporates a shim stack. This produces a non-linear damping effect that is more nuanced than damper rod forks.

_Clean base valve by soaking or spraying

^^^ The threads of the base valve are slightly peened over to hold the nut in place. The threads are aluminum so treat them with care.

_Hold base valve in hand and file down these threads. As you do, the nut will become loose but it probably won’t come off with fingers.

_Use a 10 mm box wrench to gently move the nut back and forth. The threads are aluminum and there is thread locker. Go back and forth several times.

_The nut will finally come off with just a little pressure on the wrench

But the nut on the second fork did not loosen at all. BTR: “Very carefully apply a little heat to nut with propane torch -- thread locker problem. If not loose after cooled down -- hit it again.” I had to heat it twice... and the nut loosened.

^^^ The exact sequence and direction of parts. This diagram was verified by disassembling the second base valve.

_Count 12 shims: remove 8 and put 4 back in the valve. Note this shim recipe has been derived by BTR for the CRF230F and contributed to the TT community.

_Reassemble making sure of sequence and direction. Be sure to check count of removed shims.

^^^ The nut pushes on the washer which pushes the spring basket against the spacer tube. The spacer tube is actually what stops the movement. The spring reaches around the tube to push on the shim plate which pushes on the shim stack.

^^^ Make sure the bent end of the spring sticks up through the hole in the basket

_Clean thread and nut, then add one drop medium threadlocker. Note there is no way to re-peen the threads. The threadlocker is sufficient.

_Tighten nut firmly but not excessively. Remember the threads are aluminum.

See below for reinstallation of the base valve

Above 31, 29, 28 October 2018 by JXG with BTR on WhatsApp

Fork rebuild: Bushings and seals

2003 XR400R fork purchased on eBay; see XR400R Reference Info and Fork Springs for differences by year.

The XR400R Service Manual is available here.

If the seals are known to be in decent condition, you may want to save some money and reuse them.

But the forks still need to be cleaned out. Remove the caps and springs.

BTR: “Don't take apart the fork because it can blow the seal. It is hard to get muck and slime out of lower fork tube. I end up running 1/2 gal gas through each fork tube until clean. Shaking and pulling forks up and down many times.

“After flushing forks many times, take a flashlight and look down in lower fork tube. That is where dirt sits. You think you got it clean but it is not. Once the flushing gas turns clear you are close.

“When done, turn fork upside down to dry. Try not to extend fork to a point that is not in the normal range of motion. That kind of over-travel is what blows the old seal.”

I decided while the forks were off to invest in new fork seals. If not they would surely start leaking during an extended trip somewhere. See important info under Fork seal replacement.

What about bushings?

BTR: “See if you have any wobbly play between lower leg and top tube. If so you need new bushings.”

The best way is with the “fork on bike with wheel removed, grab lower fork and check for play. Or in a large vise: be careful.”

But I didn’t have the fork on my bike yet. I got the same effect by setting the bottom of the slider against the ground, holding the top of the tube, and pushing and pulling at the top of the slider. Visualize trying to bend a fence post by pushing the middle. This puts maximum flex on the two parts of the fork and the bushings inside.

There was some play but it did not seem excessive. Then I compared it to a stock 230F fork and... it was more.

Honda does not give any spec for this wobbly play. But they do say, “Check the bushings for excessive play or scratches. If copper appears on the entire surface, replace the bushings” (p. 13-13).

Bushing inspection

So I decided to open one fork up and check the bushings before completing my parts order.

_Set up workspace to hold forks upright without falling over and spraying oil all over.

Video on rebuild https://youtu.be/YJAn_F7Ofpg

Fork caps = 24 mm socket

“Before removing the fork cap, turn the rebound damping adjuster

counterclockwise to the softest position to prevent the needle of the

adjuster from damaging (Record the number of clicks to the

softest position).

I played this video and followed along. The process is very similar to my CRF150RB rebuild. A couple of notes:

The XR400 Service Manual p. 13-10 shows the fork cap being turned. I found on my 2003 that this disconnects the cap from its lower half. You want to turn the lower half of the cap which leads us to...

The gentleman in the video uses a Crescent wrench on the lower half because apparently he does not have two 14 mm open wrenches. I started stripping this part so I quickly found a second 14 mm open wrench out of my bike kit. Second time around, I found the Crescent works: just use it on the bottom nut.

Note: The base valve must be removed (see above) for the oil seal to come out

Below, you can see there is not a retaining circlip above the fork seal. Once you pry out the dust seal (#8) and wavy stopper ring (#9), you can use the fork tube to pull the oil seal right out. This is different from some bikes where removing a circlip above the seal is difficult.

^^^ From Service Manual p. 13-14. Note that for #13 “Oil Lock”, the smaller diameter end goes down INTO the fork slider.

The oil was very black so it’s a good thing I decided to tear the forks down and replace the seals. But the fork tubes look good with minimal scratches or wear on the tubes.

^^^ And the bushings? They looked OK to me.

But BTR said: “My thinking they are cheap and yours have miles on them. Replace them and go another ten years. When done fork will be sluggish till break in.”

The right fork seal was difficult to remove. When it came out, it was red--presumably aftermarket. More hints this pair of eBay forks had a long and interesting 15 years on an XR400.

As with the other fork I ran patches of shop towel through everything to clean it out.

Forks Parts List

2 ea. #22 SEAL SET, FR. FORK (SHOWA) Mfg. #51490-KS6-305

Bushings:

2 ea. #8 Upper BUSH, GUIDE Mfg. #51414-MAZ-751

2 ea. #9 Lower BUSH, SLIDER Mfg. #51415-MCF-003

Base valve parts:

2 ea. #40 O-RING (15.5X1.5) Mfg. #91256-GC5-003

2 ea. #38 WASHER, SPECIAL Mfg. #90544-KZ3-00

Bushings old and new

The new bushings were a surprise because they were actually thinner than the old bushings. Measurements were made at 6 points around the bushing circumference, and the caliper jaws went across the whole width of the bushing. I’m not sure this method captures the wear across the old bushings, top to bottom.

Visually, there is some wear apparent on the top bushings. I decided to replace all the bushings.

^^^ Top bushing new and old

^^^ Bottom bushing old and new

Reassembly

UPDATE22: Reorganized text and new photo on 21 August 2022.

^^^ From Service Manual p. 13-14. Note that for #13 “Oil Lock”, the smaller diameter end goes down INTO the fork slider.

2018: Run the fork damper tube through the fork tube, THEN put #13 “Oil Lock” on the end.

2022 sequence: The bottom of p. 13-14 is not clear on the order of operations. I put everything together, then took it apart and made this photo:

1. Install the #13 “Oil Lock” - the smaller diameter end goes down INTO the fork slider

2. Insert the damper tube through the fork tube.

The damper tube has female threads at the (2) label, which connect to the base valve (4) thus holding everything together. This is why you have to take everything apart to get the oil seals out.

Make sure the fork tube bottom bushing (21) is snapped onto the end of the fork tube. If it is loose, slide it off and gently squeeze it into “overlap” - it should then SNAP onto the bottom of the fork tube. Otherwise it will move around and cause problems later. The upper bushing and backup ring should move loosely.

3. Insert the fork tube, which now contains the damper tube, into the fork slider at right.

Look into the bottom of the slider and make sure the threads of the damper are in position.

This is tricky because you want the base of the damper tube to thread into, but the damper rod (the part that moves) will come down and push the base valve out. It helps to hold the damper about halfway out while you fiddle around with the alignment of the female damper tube with the male base valve

4. Now thread the base valve in. Don’t forget the copper washer.

I tightened the base valve finger-tight using a fork damper holder (see below).

Replacement of seals

_Drop the upper bushing into the slider, then the backup ring with the chamfered edge down, then drive the ring down with a fork seal tool. This compresses the upper bushing into place. The driver should bottom out with a solid feel as the upper bushing seats in the fork slider.

This is shown at the top of p. 13-15.

_Wrap electrical tape around the top of the fork tube to avoid damaging the seal lip

_Lube the fork seal, turn it spring side down and labeling UP, and slide it down the fork tube

_Drive the fork seal into position with a seal driver. I used the Tusk model.

_Insert the wavy circlip making sure it snaps into the groove

_Lube the dust seal, slide it down, and drive it into position with the seal driver -- but without the adjustable fingers. These fingers reach down into the slider to push the seal in but they will push the lip of the dust seal which you don’t want to do. Leaving the fingers off pushes on the outer metal part of the dust seal.

Torquing the base valve

Now before filling the forks, the base valves need to be tightened more.

_Tighten using the BTR Fork Damper Mexico Method described below. You have to use this method because there is no way to hold the fork damper tube. Actually, you can use the Honda tie-down strap method if you want precise torques.

Apparently the ‘97-98 models did not have any cutouts on the fork damper to accept a fork damper holder. So Honda shows how to put in the springs, remount the forks, use a ratcheting tie-down strap to apply tension, tighten the base valves, then disassemble everything again (p. 13-15). This is a lot of work. It also takes a lot of tension; it is safest to use a heavy-duty ratcheting strap. If I had ‘97-98 I would probably just use the BTR Fork Damper Mexico Method.

BTR Fork Damper Mexico Method: “Turn fork upside down on foot or something soft. You don’t want to push in the rebound adjustment screw. Start the base valve by hand by pushing down on fork. This will cause the spring to make tension on the damper rod. The base valve can then start to tighten. Then give it a quick burst with impact wrench.”

SIDEBAR: Making a fork damper holder

The manual (p. 13-16) says to use a fork damper holder, apply threadlocker to the “center bolt” which is the base valve, and torque to 34 Nm. The fork damper holder is one of these mythical Honda tools that no one has ever seen but people do build: post.

Since I have a 2003 fork, I made a fork damper holder out of 1-inch thin wall electrical conduit like the post above. The OD is 0.92 inches, which is just right. The slots in the damper are 0.27 inches wide, so the tabs should be about this wide. The length is 17 inches.

^^^ Marking where to cut a tab on the conduit (left) to fit the fork damper slot (right)

Using this tool, I tightened the base valve to 34 Nm. But there was a slight technical difficulty: one of the tabs bent. The problem is that the tabs to fit the XR400R fork are much narrower than the wide tabs shown in the post. The thin wall conduit can’t take the stress. “The OD of 1/2-inch galvanized pipe is about 7/8-inch (0.875)” page so this would be the stuff to use.

Not wanting to go to the store and buy thicker galvanized pipe, for the second fork I put in the spring temporarily and put on the fork cap. By compressing the fork onto a foam mat (to protect the rebound adjuster), I was able to tighten the base valve to about 10 Nm. This was enough that it would not leak.

Filling the forks with oil

This is done BEFORE the springs are reinstalled

_Fill the forks with 3 weight shock fluid to 4 inches (102 mm) from the top. Well over 1 quart will be needed. 2018: I used Bel-Ray HVI 3WT

UPDATE22: See new Settings, August 2022

_It’s important to get all the air out. Lift the fork tube and damper many times. One hint air is getting flushed is fluid will start to squirt out of the damper rod when you pull it UP. Then let the fork sit for 30 minutes or much more. Since you are setting the amount of oil from height not volume, it is important that all the air is out. See Ramz comment under CRF150RB Fork oil filling and level.

Resetting the rebound clickers

Be careful with the rebound clickers. The Service Manual p. 13-9 says to turn the clickers all the way CCW to protect the needle; p. 13-13 shows needle inspection; and p. 13-15 shows reassembly of the fork cap to the piston rod.

But nothing explains how to get back to 12 clicks of range: “Rebound Damping: The rebound damping adjuster has at least 12 positions. Turning the adjuster one full tum advances the adjuster 6 positions” (Owner’s Manual, p. 20).

I ended up with 6 clicks and had to reopen the forks.

How it should work. With the cap removed, there is a range of 22 clicks. Start by turning the clicker all the way clockwise (hardest). The piston will only go in part-way because the needle valve is blocking it. As you turn the clicker softer, the piston will go in further.

At this point I figured, set it in the middle and insert the piston up to this point. But surely someone else had encountered this situation; could I confirm my hunch? Sure enough I Googled ‘xr400 clickers’ and found this explanation:

“Screw its clicker all the way out to its stop, then back in 12 clicks or however many you want. After having backed the jam nut on the rod end down some, screw the cap back on the rod end. Pay careful attention to when you start to feel resistance as it bottoms out. Stop. Don't tighten it further.

Screw the jam nut up to meet the fork cap and "tighten the jam nut up against the bottom of the fork cap", not the other way around. Don't let the fork cap turn on the rod end as you tighten the two together. Then when you back out the clicker it should have 12 clicks from all the way in to all the way out.” post

Read this over a couple of times while you study the mechanism. It will make sense. It takes longer to read about than to actually do it.

I ended up with 13 clicks in each fork. It seems like having them match is more important than the actual number.

If you change springs, be careful not to mess up the rebound clickers. I managed to do this later and had to do it all over again.

Fork boots?

My stock are in good condition. BTR recommends Daystar, which are made in USA.

2022 Updates:

RMAM no longer stocks Daystar
2004 - Honda -XR400R https://daystarweb.com/1981-2009-honda-fork-boot-13-inch-travel-16.5-inch-extended-3.5-inch-collapsed-royal-black-by-daystar.html

SKU: MX00503BK

Amazon out of stock https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-MX00503BK-Motorcycle-Extended-Collapsed/dp/B01AYS8KFE/
Summit has them https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DYS-MX00503BK/applications/make/honda/year/2004

I no longer recommend SealSavers for conventional forks. This section explains why.

Above 21 August 2022; 11 November; 31, 28 October 2018 by JXG with BTR

Triple clamps

Tools:

30 mm wrench for stem nut. The best solution may be a single Tekton socket Amazon.
The nut above must be torqued to 98 Nm or 72 ft-lb, so a breaker bar is handy. Also the axle is high torque. A 3/4-inch by 24 inch galvanized pipe is good.
Pin wrench for steering adjustment nut. You will need this to tighten the nut to seat the bearings: see p. 13-26. The final torque is very low.
XR400R manuals are here

Before changing the triple clamps, be sure to capture your Front end geometry so you can recreate it with the new forks.

An XR400R is a full-size bike with a tall head tube, so it has a long stem.

^^^ From Service Manual, p. 13-25

This long stem must be cut down to fit the CRF230F shorter head tube. This was done by a machinist and 230F rider. He cut a section out of the stem and welded it back together. He has been doing these kind of mods for racers for over 50 years so I had no doubt the stem was as structurally flawless as it appeared to be:

Below are the main triples parts:

It’s not a bad idea to buy all new bearings, races, and seals:

1 ea. #5 DUST SEAL, STEERING HEAD Mfg. #53214-KCY-671

2 ea. #9 BEARING, HEAD PIPE Mfg. #91015-425-832

1 ea. #4 DUST SEAL, STEERING HEAD Mfg. #53214-KA4-701

Note the dust seals are specific to various XR triples and the CRF230F... but not the CRF150RB.

But the bearings also fit the CRF230F and the CRF150RB... this is what makes these fork swaps possible

The bearings and races were both replaced when I installed the CRF150RB forks in '17. These races in the 230F head tube and bearings now had 2500 miles and 350 hrs on them.

My XR400 triples had come with clean bearings and seals that looked good. Of course, they were not matched to the races currently in the head tube.

On the other hand it is a good bit of work to drive out the races and drive in new ones. BTR on replacement: “I don't -- if they look decent I mix.” I brought up a chat with a TT professional machinist who concurred.

I decided to not replace the bearings.

Changing the triple clamps

_Remove wheel, fork tubes, and fender

^^^ It is a good idea to clean the top of the bottom triple before removing it so that dirt doesn’t fall into the bearing like it has here

Swapping out the triples with minimal disturbance to the wiring and cables is a topology problem. Think bra removal under a shirt. I have found it is helpful to suspend the bars from the ceiling and forward of their normal position, like this:

_Remove the stem nut with a 30 mm socket. It should be very tight. Mine was not tight. While this is not the “Jesus Bolt” of a helicopter, it should be tight. I am adding this to my routine maintenance. Don’t let the triple fall on your foot.

What about steering stops? The CRF230F triple uses rear steering stops which contact a piece of rod welded to the frame. The CRF150RB triple, which was on my bike, has stops that don’t reach this -- thus the use of the Ramz steering stop which bolts onto the front of the head tube. The XR400R triples are similar but different:

^^^ XR400R steering stops (top) are wider than CRF230F

^^^ The 400R triple itself contacts the rod before the fork hits the gas tank, so good to go.

_If you are going to install new bearings and races, see CRF150RB section for a low-cost method.

_Install the 400R triples following the procedure in the XR400R Service Manual, p. 13-26. I put medium threadlocker on the steering stem nut.

_The BTR default fork measurement is fork tube (not the cap, the end of the tube) at 1-13/16 inches (1.812 inches, 46 mm) above the upper triple.

^^^ Insert your ruler in the triple clamp gap. This is a good way to exactly measure the height so the forks are exactly the same.

_Install the forks following the sequence on p. 13-19. If you have accessories on your bars, think about where you can reach the air bleed screws. I like to get the heights set, torque the lower bolts enough to hold them, then alternate.

Basically lower then upper bolts, 22 Nm

Fork tube shimming. The fork tubes are 43 mm diameter, plus or minus 0.1 mm or so. The 80 mm long necked-down section is mostly 42.2 mm diameter with some 42.1 mm areas. So you need some shim material that is about 0.4 mm thick or 0.015 inches. This is about 28 gauge sheet metal ref which is typical aluminum roof flashing.

^^^ I was only able to slip in small pieces of shim at the front. BTR wrapped the fork tube.

With the fork tubes in place, you can now set up the wheel.

Above 5, 3 November 2018 by JXG

Wheel conversion

Here are the parts needed to convert the 230F wheel to work with the 400R axle and forks. Note this conversion is reversible, but the 230F stock bearings are destroyed when they are removed.

New bearings in the hub

^^^ Stock 230F wheel parts, from left to right side of bike: short collar, small dust seal, bearing, distance collar, bearing, large dust seal, long collar.

The distance collar inside the hub is not tightly gripped by the hub. This means you can reach in with a drift and knock it slightly off center. Once this is done, you can move the drift against the edge of the bearing and tap it out from the opposite side. Save at least one old bearing for use as a driver below.

^^^ The stock distance collar is just under 56 mm long and of course 15 mm ID for the thin stock axle. The 400R distance collar (#8 above) is about 60.5 mm long and about 17.3 ID for that massive axle.

^^^ I scratched a line around the 400R collar and followed BTR’s advice to use a tubing cutter then a hacksaw. I thought maybe the tubing cutter would cut all the way through despite the 3 mm wall thickness. But the cutter wheel chipped. Tubing cutters are designed for thin wall. I ordered a new cutter wheel and finished up with a hacksaw and file.

_Place the wheel on a soft surface and tap the right 400R bearing (#21) in. Both sides are recessed, so use the old bearing as a driver. Install the collar inside the hub and tap in the left bearing. Install the left side dust seal. There is no right side dust seal at present.

_Install the 230F brake on the 400R fork (230F Service Manual, p. 14-16). Note the original mounts are 25 mm thick and the 400R mounts are 27 mm thick, so the bolts should reach.

In fact the bottom bolt that was installed with my 150RB setup was too long. It protruded and interfered with the caliper. I put about 4 mm of washers under it. Use threadlocker and torque to 30 Nm (230F Service Manual, p. 12-2). It is important to fully mount the brake, because this will affect the spacers.

The Spacers

The role of the left side spacers is to align the brake rotor and the caliper. This is the most important part of the swap. The right side spacers just maintain the spacing between the wheel and the fork.

_Put the two collars on the right side of the axle. This gives 38 mm of spacing on the right side.

_Run the axle from right to left though the wheel

_Put the stock collar (#4) on and the front axle holder (#5) on the left side of the axle. Insert the rotor into the caliper. Snap the axle holder into the fork clamp.

_Tighten up the fork clamp so it locks the axle holder in place. Now tighten the axle from the right side and watch the rotor in the caliper move side to side. You want to get it centered. Spin the wheel and apply the brake. Do this a few times to figure out the optimum position.

^^^ With the rotor centered in the caliper, the stock collar (#4) against the wheel bearing, and the front axle holder (#5) snapped into the fork tube there is a gap that needs to be filled with another spacer. I measured just about 12 mm (or 31 mm total spacing when added to the stock collar).

Round 1

I was able to get a single Hillman 59663 3/4 x 1 x 2 (Amazon) steel spacer at Lowes which is 19 mm ID, 25.3 mm OD, and 3.4 mm wall thickness.

Other options would be a stack of Hillman 5/8-in washers which are 16.8 ID x 32 OD x 2.2 mm thick. Hillman 3/4-in washers are 3.3 mm x 21 ID x 37 OD (4 mm larger than the axle). Note these are the smaller USS standard; the SAE sizes are way too large to fit into the space by the fork.

Or thick-wall pipe could be used. Or another KAE-870 but they are expensive and thick-walled, so a lot of work to saw down.

I used the mangled tubing cutter to scribe a line around the Hillman spacer, then cut it with a hacksaw. I ended up grinding it down to 10 mm as I tested it; narrower seemed to work better. Then I actually tightened up the axle and the rotor bound in the caliper. Oops.

Round 2

At this point I realized that because of flex in the system, you have to test each time by fully tightening the axle. It helps to have various thicknesses of spacers. In my case:

Hilman 491418 5/8-inch washer = 2.2 mm
Hilman 491419 3/4-inch washer = 3.3 mm
My Hillman 59663 custom collar = 10 mm
Stock collar (KAE-870) = 19 mm
150R rear spacer = 22.8 mm

I tried various combinations, tightening the whole axle system each time:

19 + 10 = 29 mm = Too narrow (brushes left side of caliper)
19 + 3.3 + 3.3 + 2.2 + 2.2 = 30 = This worked best
19 + 3.3 + 3.3 + 3.3 + 2.2 = 31.1 = (brushes right side of caliper)
19 + 10 + 2.2 = 31.2 = Too wide (brushes right side of caliper)
19 + 10 + 3.3 = 32.3 = Too wide (brushes right side of caliper)

So the solution that actually worked out was the stock collar (KAE-870), two Hilman 3/4-inch washers, and two Hilman 5/8-inch washers.

There was a slight drag in the caliper. I could not figure out what it was. After the first long ride it was gone.

Round 3: The Jeffrow68 right side spacer

My first iteration used two 44311-KAE-870 spacers on the right side. These are $9 apiece and they don’t fit the ID of the 230F seal. Here you can see the spacers pushed directly against the bearing -- no seal:

^^^ The bearing itself is sealed but still you can see dust is directly on it which is not ideal.

^^^ Compare to the final setup

Then came a report on 12 November 2018: “I used a CRF150R center bearing spacer [collar 42620-KSE-000] from a rear wheel … as the right side spacer and was the perfect OD to fit the 230 seal for the right side.” - Jeffrow68 post

Below are my two spacers and the Jeffrow68 collar, along with a new 230F seal 91254-KA3-831:

The collar is 84 mm long. I cut it down to the same length as the two spacers: 38 mm. So I had 46 mm left over. Unfortunately, this is not long enough to serve as the distance collar in the 230F wheel: it would need to be 56 mm long.

So for a third of the cost, you get a lighter spacer that works with the 230F wheel seal. I have updated the parts diagram above to show this preferred option.

BTW, my old 230F seal 91254-KA3-831 did not fit around the new spacer: it was really loose. But a new seal fit perfectly.

_Install the brake caliper and torque bolts to 30 N-m per 230F Service Manual p. 14-16

_Install the axle components following the exact sequence shown on 400R Service Manual p. 13-8.

Note the brake may require pumping until it begins to work again!

_Install the fender. I used the same fender as the 150RB project: Fender assembly for CRF150R/RB 61100-KSE-000 Partzilla $41, RMAM $43. Bolt (6x16) x4 93404-06016-08 Partzilla $1

I used a PowerMadd 2-inch riser; see notes here.

_Carefully test the brake and wheel system at gradually increasing speeds.

Above 7 January 2019; 6, 5, 4, 3 November; 20 October 2018 by JXG with BTR and Jeffrow68

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2UyoWTi

Fork bleeders: Worth the trouble?

^^^ Works Connection bleeders (part 26-300, $25) don’t fit as shown above. The valve body is 9.20 mm diameter, and there is only space for 7.5 mm. Modification to the fork cap is needed: you need to remove about 6 mm high by 0.9 mm.

BTR: “The OD does not fit the cutout in the XR400 fork cap. We enlarged the cutout a lot. Be very careful as easy to strip. One side of mine was leaking. So I very carefully made it a slight bit tighter. Test ride is important. It still leaked so a little bit more tight. Now works. Be sure to rotate your forks so the bleeder is towards gas tank. Also I carry stock bleed screws and two sheet metal screws. Correct size in case on a long ride one breaks off at top with threads intact.”

After reading this and looking at the grinding needed... and then they leak... before they break off and are ruined... I am going to send the bleeders back. I will simply carry a small screwdriver attached to the bars with a lanyard.

Configuration and tuning

How did the front height change?

With the fork tubes 46 mm above the upper triple, the 400R upgrade raised the front end of the bike by 10 mm relative to stock and raised it 19 mm relative to the previous 150RB forks. See Geometry for how this was measured.

I may raise the forks further to lower the front end more.

How did the handlebar height change?

Bar rise from top of triple clamps to center of bar. All are 7/8-inch bar clamp.

CRF230F stock = 35 mm
CRF150RB = 43 mm
XR400R = 35 mm

My relative bar height with 150RB = 8 higher + 13 (1/2-inch riser) = 21 mm higher than stock

My relative bar height with 400R = 0 + 51 (PowerMadd) = 51 mm higher than stock, 30 mm higher than 150RB

Initial settings. BTR: “Break in time needed. To start, bottom clicker out on last click. Top clicker rebound turn in full hard--easy don't force. Then out 6 clicks. Then report after at least 3 rides or more.”

Front wheel travel

CRF150RB = 10.8 inches travel
XR400R = 11.0 inches travel

Spring rate and sag, round 1: Stock springs

XR400 forks: Changing to 0.50 springs

Post:

Now have 175 miles and 17 hrs on bushings and seals. Mostly rough to very rough riding.

Stock springs: 0.41. Sag is excessive at 1.2 inches static, 3.3 inches rider with a rider weight of 231 lbs.

BTR believes the forks are only halfway broken in.

I have just put 0.50 springs in. Oddly enough, these are Cannon springs from my 150R fork project. They are too short and too small diameter. But they are already paid for. I added 86 mm of PVC spacer to match the 400R spring length.

Nothing to do about the diameter, so the springs do clang a bit when I hit bumps.

Exactly as BTR remembered from his 400R experience long ago when he tried different springs. Apparently the 400R springs are fairly unique.

While the sluggishness of the forks makes measuring sag a bit challenging, it LOOKS to me like the sag is right where I want it. Not really surprising since the same springs inside the 150R forks gave me spot-on sag.

I don't like how SealSavers hold dust against the stanchions so I have gone back to the stock boots. Post

Results with 0.50 springs

Total rider weight: 225 lbs with armor and pack

Today... 28 miles, 3 hrs moving... all standard test sections plus the hardest trails I can ride.... and the verdict is...

Improved control: With the massive structural rigidity of the front end -- but just one pound heavier than stock -- the bike goes where I point it in the nastiest rocks. It takes huge punishment for deflection to occur.

Improved plushness: These forks absorb hits better than any suspension setup I have ever ridden. Over and over I would ride over something and think, wait--where did that rock go? Can't even feel a lot of trail junk. But others still slip through and feel normal.

I'm sure the too-small 150R springs were clanging around in the tubes but I never heard them with my usual earplugs.

Still a little harsh on 8-10 inch high sharp ledges... but really how can they not be harsh? We're talking nearly half the diameter of the wheel.

Another great example of how stiffer springs -- up to a point -- create the plushest ride.

Some may remember I was a bit disappointed by the CRF150R fork transplant in 2017. OK but not dramatic.

This is completely different. Probably an even bigger change than going from Hagon to Fox Podium shock.

Between the Fox shock and 400R forks, this is a magic carpet ride. Of course, some stuff still jolts you good.

The reduction in fatigue is very significant and will be the biggest payoff.

post

If you change springs, be careful not to mess up the rebound clickers.

Long-term use and maintenance

Keep an eye on the right axle holder nuts! They tend to loosen. Use threadlocker and check them. With medium threadlocker, I have found them loose after 10 hrs and 90 miles of rocky riding.

Here is the install sequence from XR400R_ShopManual_1996-2004, p. 13-8

“Make sure the holder collar and left end of the axle are seated firmly onto the fork legs clamp surfaces.
Install the axle holder onto the right fork leg with the "UP" mark facing up and loosely tighten the four right holder nuts.
Install the axle holder onto the left fork leg with the "UP" mark facing up.
Install the four left holder nuts and tighten the upper nuts first, then tighten the lower bolts.
Do not tighten the right holder nuts yet.

TORQUE: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 9lbf·ft)

After securing the holder collar, tighten the front axle.

TORQUE: 88 N·m (9.0 kgf·m, 65 lbf·ft)

With the front brake applied, pump the fork up and down several times to seat the axle and check the front brake operation.
While keeping the fork parallel, tighten the upper holder nuts of the right axle holder first, then tighten the lower nuts.

TORQUE: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf.m, 9 lbf·ft)

Future tire changes... remember the front axle is 72 ft-lbs or 97 Nm. Breaker bar may be required.

Changing the fork oil. The oil gets very dirty and there are claims that it wears out. Remove forks, remove cap and spring, flush fork, refill to correct level: see first part of Fork rebuild: Bushings and seals for cleanout method.

Changing the oil seals. First, try a SealMate: that may stop the leak. If you have to replace a seal, the entire fork has to come apart because the fork tube and bottom slider are held together by the damper tube and base valve. See Fork rebuild: Bushings and seals

BTR: Oil level experiments, March 2022: “Normally 4 inches from top. I added more last time forks better: 3-7/8 from top. My suspension guy told me years ago, use light oil (3 wt in this case), soft valving, extra oil. So before bottoming out it gets stiffer and helps like oil lock at full compression. (BTR, 3/25/22)

”Lowered fork oil level one inch from 4 in to 5 in. Wow, super more plush.” 4/24/22

BTR’s Secret Hot Sauce Settings, August 2022

Reference: XR400R Reference Info and Fork Springs

For all years of XR400R forks on the CRF230F and CRF250F
These settings are for a more plush ride on slow tight trail
Lighter riders: Now using 2.5 wt, big difference from 3 wt

Use Motul 105962 Fork Oil Factory Line-Very Light 2.5W https://www.amazon.com/Motul-105962-Fork-Factory-Line/dp/B07DM85Y8W

Red Line is not actually 2.5 wt, it is 0 weight

Oil level: 5 inches from top of tube with spring out, fork tube bottomed. There are more details, see Fork oil filling and level
Compression: start full soft, turn in 2 clicks at a time if you bottom
Rebound: all the way in tight, then 6 to 4 clicks out
9/7/22 UPDATE

We went to 3wt shock oil because with 2.5 you need to adjust rebound almost full stiff to get control

Heavier riders: 225 lbs with all gear

3wt rear shock oil

Shock oil is higher grade than fork oil: “After years of using fork oil, I switched to using suspension fluid about 15 years ago. I did this because most fork tuning write-ups mention using suspension fluid and not fork oil. Supposedly, suspension fluid is higher quality and you have more viscosity range to choose from.” - Ramz
Maxima Racing Shock Fluid 3W 32 oz. $15.99 https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/maxima-racing-shock-fluid-p
RockShox Maxima Suspension Oil - 3wt, 1 Liter, Rear Shock $27.30 https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Maxima-Suspension-Oil-Charger/dp/B07TG91ZL7

Level: 4.25 inches = 108 mm
Compression and rebound the same as above

You will need to buy 2 qts for two fork tubes

(BTR, 9/7/22, 8/25/22 UPDATE22)

Thread https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1274536-pulled-the-trigger/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-14547574

Special thanks to BTR for all the guidance on this project

Above on 23 August 2022; 25 March 2022; 18 July 2021; 13, 6 January 2019; 5 December; 26, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2 November; 21, 20, 19, 18 October 2018 by JXG and BTR

Link: http://bit.ly/2Rgnujo

Ergonomics

Link to this ergos section: http://bit.ly/2OIMzmV

Handguards are essential protection

There are lots of cheap handguards on Amazon and eBay. But the aluminum is very brittle and scary. It is likely to break in any impact. After mine started to crack I recycled them and bought US-made.

“I have 2 sets of Acerbis Rally and one Tusk D-Flex Pros.

Tusk look identical to the G2s, as mixxer posted. But Tusk are drilled and tapped for the shields. And they cost the same while packaged with the shields. I like that the inside mount brackets are tapered, they hug that section of the bar, where it gets wider toward the center, very well. Long bolts also provide a lot of bite - unlikely to strip when you crank them down to prevent slip.

Acerbis aren't as beefy. But they're 70gr lighter per side. I like the lower profile shields. I think it's a bit safer when going over the bars - less likely to get the wrist trapped inside.

Tusk guards are also stiffer, even without the shields on, than the whole molded part of the Acerbis.” - Sorbales post

Plastic shields are a major part of the protection, especially against branches

“I have the MSR hand guards on mine but they don't have shields.” - jjmaine post

Above: 2 April 2019 new section added by JXG

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/handle-bar-positioning/

Handlebar position options

“The Rox 2-inch risers, I initially had them rotated so far forward that the bars were located past the fork tubes. That caused some very quick/weird handling in turns and resulted in a lot of headshake when being ridden on the road. I rotated the bars back a bit so they are almost over the fork tubes and the result is much more like stock handling while raising the bars a bit more than I'd like, but it is very usable and much improved as far as opening up the cockpit. Keeps you a bit forward which really helps in keeping weight forward on the bike as well as improving the bar/peg/seat relationship. Feels like a "regular" bike now.” - kkim post

Rox 2 inch and Power Riser 3 inch (I think):

Images from Frickin’ Jim video show how far forward his Rox are: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13DRMLPKBiQ

Rox makes a 3.5 inch https://roxspeedfx.com/collections/adv-dual-sport-dirt-bike-handlebar-risers

Power Riser makes 2 and 3 inch tall

http://www.powermadd.com/products/PowerRiser475.html

2022 Update: see Rox Pivoting Anti-Vibe Bar Risers: “Super happy”

Above: 2016 by JXG

Options for handlebar repositioning: Known fits

Stock => 2 inch PowerRiser => ProTaper Carmichael 1.5 inches high: YES this works

When I bought my 230F the PO had installed the following:

45431 “PowerRiser converts from 22 mm clamps to 28 mm: 2" tall for 7/8" to 1 1/8" bar http://www.powermadd.com/products/PowerRiser475.html
ProTaper Contour Carmichael bars: 32 inches wide height is 40 mm = 1.55 inches

There was no problem with cables reaching. Note: I don’t actually know the height of the 230F OEM bars, so I’m not sure how the Carmichaels compare.

Moving on...

If you read the history below, the footpeg relocation pioneers often moved the bars also.

I’m 6’1 and with my footpegs relocated I can stand easier -- but not quite the way I could on my Xtrainer with 2-inch Rox Risers. Since I had the original Risers (above) sitting around, I decided to give them a try on the CRF.

(For pix of these risers, scroll up to the previous section)

CRF150RB triples => Rox Risers 9/8 to 9/8 => TE bars: No go

My CRF150RB triples take 1-1/8 bars or as I prefer to say, 9/8.

The TE carbon fiber bars are standard 9/8 so they fit the CRF150RB triples.

But the TE flexible handguards require a upper clamp that is slightly nonstandard. It works fine with the CRF150RB triple but...

When I tried to put 2 inch Rox Risers in between, the TE upper clamp and the Riser below did not get along. They are just slightly off.

CRF150RB triples => PowerMadd 7/8 to 9/8 => TE bars: YES

I also had a PowerMadd 7/8 to 9/8 converter riser sitting around so I tried that with the TE upper clamp.

^^^ Lo and behold, they fit together nicely.

But of course the bottom won’t fit the CRF150RB triples. To make it all work I would have to buy a PowerMadd 9/8 to 9/8 which is not cheap

https://www.amazon.com/PowerMadd-45440-PowerRiser-475-2-25/dp/B0055DO1J8

XR400R triples => PowerMadd 7/8 to 9/8 => TE bars: YES

When I converted to XR400R forks, I used the PowerMadd 7/8 to 9/8 and it works well.

Slack in cables and wiring. The 230F can generally tolerate a 2-inch rise with stock cables and wiring. Be sure to check this carefully by raising the front end and turning the bars lock to lock. One thing that can happen is pulling the throttle cable which pulls the slide up. Be sure to run the engine and make sure it still idles throughout the range of bar movement.

Rox vs. PowerMadd. I actually prefer the PowerMadd because it is a single piece rather than two separate pieces. So it seems a lot stronger. But like the Rox it blocks its own bolts so you don’t get a full range of angles. Post

Be careful with the bolts. Before you mount the bars, test the bolts to get the right angle and a feel for how tight the threads are. Then tighten the bar clamp a little at a time across the bolt pattern. If a bolt starts to tighten up, STOP: the angle is probably wrong. The PowerMadd is very picky about bolt angle and I came close to stripping out one hole. Actually had to run a tap through it. Scary. post

Above: 31 October 2021; 9 November; 13 October 2018 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2Phva8t

Long link: https://docs.google.com/document/u/1/d/1mEsw891e5HUdLIrq4yYQzm2QCsRgK-ihDkrL_fu7_iA/pub#h.d7592oxbunt5

Foot peg repositioning

Frickin’ Jim explains the problem:

“The peg-to-handlebar relationship on the CRF230F is actually a bit strange. The stock geometry is not ideal for controlling the bike while standing on top of it. Many people believe, after riding the 230, that this is because the handlebars are just too low. That is not entirely true!

The main problem is that the handlebars and pegs are too close together horizontally, leaving the rider with very little leverage to control the bike. Look at the picture above comparing the peg-to-bar angle of the CRF250R and the CRF230F. This shows the problem. On the CRF230F, the peg-to-bar slope is much more vertical than on a standard full-size dirt bike. This is not good.”

“The actual solution for full-size riders on the CRF230F is to move the handlebars straight forward and slightly upward [and/or] move the footpegs straight rearward. https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/foot-peg-positioning/

TT thread http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/983931-handlebar-position-interesting-numbers/

12/2/13 brent j:

“I tried the bike with the footpegs moved back 35mm today. I rode it with the bars forward and std peg position, bars forward and pegs back then pegs back/bars std.

I won't go into details but pegs back and bars forward seems to me to be the best combination.

In tight going (single track) I have room to get up forward and really steer it.

Now climbing rocky hills I have room to move around and steer where I want to go and I can keep the front light when I want to.

There's more room to move around and shifting my weight now has a bigger effect on how the bike handles.

I gained a big advantage in moving the bars forward and about the same improvement by moving the pegs back.

After trying all the available combinations my view is to make to make changes in the following priority

Move the bars forward about 35mm AND the pegs back about 35mm

If you can only do one then I'd move the pegs back first and the bars forward second

I think that if you move the pegs any more than about 35mm you will run into problems with the shifter becoming too short. Any more than about 35mm and you may need to go to a linkage. The shorter the lever the more effort required to shift and the harder it is to find neutral.

I wouldn't drop the pegs any lower then std as today I had the pegs dragging in a rut and my feet were pulled off the pegs.” - brent j post

12/2/12 thumperjay

I installed the RSW clamps with 2.5" rise... and rode for the first time today. I was able to stand and ride almost all day, it was a brilliant upgrade. Running Renthal bars and the risers in the middle position, which are inline with the forks.

Quickened up the steering, took a bit of getting used to... but after an hour, it was obvious it was the right upgrade... rather than just some zeta risers on the stock triples, with the bars behind the forks.

Much more roomy and comfortable for standing long periods of time.

Fugaldo design: 30 mm back post

30x26 design is 10 mm lower, which could cause dangerous dragging as noted by brent j above post

CRF450R conversion: 2010 pegs used by Fugaldo post

10/20/15 MetricMuscle: “I recently procured some CRF450R footpegs. I have found when the bracket is mounted to a flat vertical surface, the footpeg itself isn't flat or parallel to the ground, the end sticks up, even when rotated. Has this been mentioned and adjusted for? I have read thru this thread but not every post. I could easily mod the peg itself to sit flatter.” <== Note this is what Ramz describes on his page.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1uiDqJk6di9D-fz2ESJv8VEdKzU0JZOD8?usp=sharing

Plates now available from SKRAM and M&S

In August 2017 Xplodee built a new generation of prototype plates and was very positive about the results:

“Rode with the new mod yesterday for about 50 miles. WOW. Everyone must do this mod immediately. Transformed the ergonomics and ability to move my weight around efficiently on the bike.

“Everyone I ride with who has ridden on our two 230F's has complained that they can't shift because the space between the peg and shifter on a stock bike is too close. This is with riding boots on.

The new footpeg position totally corrects that problem on the shifter side and makes braking a lot easier as well on the brake side. There are zero compromises with this mod in my opinion.” post

Xplodee soon made plates available, with many details and additional mods by Ramz... http://rickramsey.net/CRF230Ffootpegs.htm

“Would I buy these brackets again? Well actually, I plan to install a set on my second CRF230F. The whole upgrade at around $200 may seem expensive to some riders, but it's worth the money to me to get some foot comfort for those long all-day rides.” - Ramz

SKRAM available from https://skramoffroad.myshopify.com/collections/all

M&S available from link at Ramz above

No plates design is compact but requires frame modification

Adnohguy points out another design by Hondahondo post

JXG install with Xplodee plates

In 2017 I purchased an early steel set from Xplodee with used step brackets and new pins, springs, and cotter pins for $125 total:

Next I purchased a set of used pegs off eBay “2006 Honda CRF250 OEM Footpegs Foot Pegs 04-13 CRF450 CR125 2005 2007 2008 2009” for $24. Presumably this was a CRF250X. See below:

In 2018 I finally got around to doing this mod. The Ramz page was my guide. Here are the old and new parts:

On the right side there was not room for my Allen socket to reach the rear bolt, so I used a long T-handle Allen wrench.

The front attachment bolt is reused, but the rear attachment bolt will not fit. Ramz suggests a flat hex-head bolt: M10-1.25x50 class 10.9. My local True Value only had this in Class 8.8. I decided to go with the higher strength bolt and Ramz kindly sent me two.

I applied medium threadlocker and torqued the large bolts to 43 ft-lbs and the small one to 22 ft-lbs using a HF digital torque gauge.

Next step was to adjust the peg angle as Ramz explains. Not having a bench grinder, I clamped the peg in a vise and hit it with an angle grinder. A line scratched with an Xacto knife was my guide.

Since I ride in a lot of rocks, I decided to grind until the outer ends of the footpegs were slightly up from level. After riding I may lower them a bit.

On the left side I kept grinding away and finally realized the peg end was hanging up on the class 10.9 bolt. Keep a close eye on what the peg end is touching.

The left side is still not very level, either side to side or front to back. Will I notice?

I tend to scrape off the cotter pins, so I inverted the pivot pins as suggested by Ramz here. Sano!

^^^ Right side comparison

^^^ Left side comparison

^^^ Left side

^^^ Right side

Initial impressions. A test ride of a couple miles was noticeable for wanting to sit further back on the seat and being able to stand up more easily. With riding boots on I did not notice that the pegs are not level.

Upgraded pegs?

These Tusk models get good reviews. I have not tried them but here are some RMAM reviews:

“I was planted to the bike and climbed hills I would not have tried before.”

“These pegs are bigger than the stock ones so they are much more comfortable. Also they do not slip or need sharpened like the stock pegs.”

Link to RMAM

2020: Design package available

2022: Brackets available: “Several sets of CRF230F 30mm offset peg relocation brackets sets available” ... “I have a bunch of the flathead bolts for foot peg brackets if you need one, they were quite hard to source.” https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1421351-bolt-thread/

Above: 17 August 2022; 7 August 2020; 22, 5, 2 October 2018 and 7 October 2017 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2ywFctx

http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-v-strom-discussion/53257-hand-grip-reduces-vibration-most-2.html

Reducing vibration and shock

Vibration damages the body and increases fatigue while riding. Here are some options to help reduce vibration while riding.

First off... if you really need to absorb vibration in the hands, here are a couple of glove options that go beyond standard motorcycle gloves. Also consider these for power tool use.

Ergodyne ProFlex 9000 Lightweight Anti-Vibration Work Glove

$21 Amazon

These are pretty good and have a lot of palm protection for falls. Very little protection on the back but they are well-ventilated. They don’t last forever because the foam is soft and the backing is cotton.

^^^ Ergodyne ProFlex 9000

Ergodyne ProFlex 9012 Anti-Vibration Work Glove with Wrist Support

$39 Amazon

I tried these for a few rides. They have very thick palms and even more vibration absorption than the 9000 model. Also they have a wrist support. Many would probably find them too restrictive for riding. I thought they were OK to good. I sent them back because the stitching started to unravel and I felt that my Twisted Engineering bars (below) were reducing vibration enough.

^^^ Ergodyne ProFlex 9012

Sorbothane insoles are cheap and effective - $17

“Sorbothane® is a thermoset, polyether-based, polyurethane material. In addition to being visco-elastic, Sorbothane® also has a very high damping coefficient. Sorbothane® combines shock absorption, good memory, vibration isolation and vibration damping characteristics. While many materials exhibit one of these characteristics, Sorbothane® combines all of them in a stable material with a long fatigue life.” http://www.sorbothane.com/vibration-reduction.aspx

Amazon

Grip puppies are very thick but they absorb a lot of vibration

I ran these on my XTrainer because it vibrated so much

http://www.grabongrips.com/motorcycle.php

Grab-on

“I have used Grab On foam grips on a number of motorcycles. There is a noticeable difference in the amount of higher frequency vibrations and shocks transmitted through the bars to the hands.

Pro Grip 699 Sportbike Gel Grip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1SAZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

“With a unique gel system to fight unwanted vibration and a variety of colors to choose from, these grips will give relief to your hands and add to the look of your street bike. Reduced Vibration GEL System” “some anti-vibe on thumper single”

“They cut vibration a bit and have a slightly larger diameter, which helped with hand fatigue on longer rides.”

Reviews: “Less vibration through the bar than stock grips.” “Much less vibration compared to my old worn out grips that these replaced.” “It helps slightly ease the vibration felt through the handlebars of the motorcycle and my hands do not get tired as quickly compared to the OEM grips. Overall I feel a slight to moderate improvement because grips won't entirely change the motorcycle's ergonomics, especially for a bike with a lot of vibration, but is is a noticeable improvement.” “There is still a little vibration since it will never all go away, but it has made riding longer distances much better and more comfortable.” “There gel helps reduce vibration a little.”

Pro Grip 790 Triple Density Grips - are thin

I have tried these and they seem thin - JXG

Black/Red 790GB-RD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CJQR3A

“Progrip is the first company that put the triple density grip on the market, the inner part of the grip is harder to fix the grip to the handlebar and the two other compound, one medium and one soft, are able to minimize all the vibrations that the bike can transmit.” - See more at: https://www.progrip.com/shop-en/motorcycle/off-road/grips/triple-density/790-black-base.html#sthash.LBUP7N16.dpuf

PROGRIP 714BK Black 125mm Dual Sport Gel Grip - My favorite grip

Amazon

ProTaper pillow top and Odi Rogue grips

“I'd been using Protaper pillow top grips on everything for the last 10-15 years and they were a huge improvement in comfort as compared to the old Scott full waffles I'd run on everything for 10-15 years prior to that.

“I recently have been trying Odi "Rogue" grips. If you are comfortable with their (1/8") larger diameter, they definitely absorb more than the pillow tops and have become my go-to for now. https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1421597-rox-anti-vib-risers/?tab=comments#comment-17070631

Above by JXG on 24 August 2022; 28 January 2021; 3,4 December 2020; 26 September 2018

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2NEEwdM

https://twistedengineering.com/shop/

Handlebar Options

DRAFT SECTION 10/8/21

	TE	MAKO	Flexx	Rox
Technology	Carbon fiber	Elastomer	Elastomer	Rubber
Primary benefit
Engine vibration	Some	18% at idle	Minimal
Handguards	Unique add-on	No interference	No interference
Cost	$700 with handguards	$500 Can-Am for Honda	$400	$170
Size	Complete bar	Any 1-1/8	Complete bar
Install

“I think you'd be surprised how much more impact and vibration 1-1/8" aluminum bars (NOT twinwalls though!) will absorb as compared to the 7/8" bars https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1421597-rox-anti-vib-risers/?tab=comments#comment-17070631

Mako 360 v Flexx v Twisted Engineering v Scotts Rubber Mount https://advrider.com/f/threads/mako-360-v-flexx-v-twisted-engineering-v-scotts-rubber-mount.1457502/

Twisted Engineering Carbon Fiber Bars: Very expensive, very good

JXG: I have had a set pf TE bars (3X) on multiple bikes including now the CRF230F. There is now a 4X available that is the most flexible.

“They are good but very expensive. Have to buy their handguards too, which move with the bars. $580 total! Plus lead time to get them made. post

The type I got for my CRF230F:

TE 02 Windham, RM Mid TE-1000-02-(*)X 800 99 70 53

http://twistedengineering.com/pdf/TE_BEND_SPECS_v3.pdf

(2020: Link is no longer working)

Height = 99 mm (3.9 in), which is the highest TE and the same as the ProTaper Windham

Install note: TE bars are the more modern 9/8 inches (1-1/8) so you will need to adapt for the stock 230F bar mounts. The PowerMadd is ideal and will help open up the cockpit of the “mini-bike” 230F frame. See Handlebar position options for more info.

The testimonials suggest that flexible bars are the only thing that lets some folks keep riding. http://twistedengineering.com/testimonials.php

“Those saying that Pro Taper bars are the same construction haven't ever tried TE bars. There is no comparison. I swapped out my PT Evo bars for the TE bars and absolutely love them.”

“When you strap your bike down, run the tie down loops thru the lower triple clamp so as not to be pulling down on your handlebars while hauling the bike.”

Are they tough? “I am amazed at how much less...... or lack of soreness i have since throwing these bars on. I'm almost still in disbelief. was riding some single track last week and clipped a tree HARD. Forks were twisted in the clamps pretty badly but the bars were no worse for the wear. Guaranteed that crash would have ended up with me buying new twinwalls. i have 15 hours on the new bars and so far they have exceeded what I had expected.”

“TE bars are really good for the hands and wrists. Scott's dampener helped heaps with my shoulders. Haven't had shoulder pain since fitting it and used to every ride.” post

“Love them. They also have a slight break-in period. They get better! Every time I jump on conventional bars now, I don't go 5 minutes before I am wondering why it is so harsh and my wrists/elbows/shoulders hurt.” post

“Used Flexx bars for about 4 years and then switched to TE 3X back in 2015 (4X not available then). No comparison between the two, much less weight with TE bars and the ability to flex in all directions is much better when soaking up trail trash. Mine have been crashed countless times racing and practicing, so far no issues with the product. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1276276-twisted-engineering-or-fasst-flex-bars/

“I used Flexx bars for years, there is maintenance the pivot points will eventually seize with or w/o constant lubing, the bumpers eventually harden, they are heavy and don't offer a low version. I switched to TE and will never go back, EVERY 40+ year old racer that tries any of my bikes with the TE bars, goes home mad (because that ride just cost them $400), and they have TE bars the next ride. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1276276-twisted-engineering-or-fasst-flex-bars/

CRF230F rider: “The twisted engineering bars are very high on my list of recommended upgrades, if not the top. I was struggling with arm pump and numb hands from CT when riding 2T bikes which was aggravated by the vibration. I initially used the Flexx bars but they were very heavy and only flexed in one plane. The twisted bars are very light and they flex in all directions.

“I have had the same pair for several years and I keep switching them over when I get a new bike. You don’t notice the flex when riding, but man they work great for absorbing sharp hits and hard landings and even with vibration reduction. I am so used to these bars that I don’t like riding bikes without them, it is really a huge difference.

“They are also very durable as I have tested this repeatedly. The only downside is the price, pretty darn expensive but a mandatory upgrade for me to keep me in the saddle and somewhat safer. I have the 3X flex version, just discovered they now have a 4X version which I may purchase for my DR650.” - Jeffro68 post

“Been running Twisted Engineering bars for the last three seasons on two of our bikes. They do a fantastic job of eliminating vibration, greatly reducing fatigue on longer rides. Incredibly impressed. https://www.facebook.com/Twisted-Engineering-159294070795129/

JXG comparison ride on two CRF230F’s in April 2019: “Swapped bikes with Tom: very responsive, DS tires with soft knobs at 15 psi, hard and twitchy on high-speed road with whoops, stock bars. After about 30 mins, noticed that my right shoulder was sore. After an hour switched back to my bike with TE bars and shoulder started feeling better. Conclusion: TE bars are keeping me riding and thus well worth the high cost.” Note the tires and suspension were different but still interesting results.

UPDATE 2019: I have been using Flexx bars on my mountain bike and really appreciate the ability to install different elastomers for compression and rebound. I have settled on the softest available elastomers for comfort. The difference between my bicycle with conventional bars and the other with Flexx is very noticeable, especially in my rotator cuff. The main thing seems to be pulling back hard on the bars when pedaling up steep climbs. Flexx makes a huge difference in fatigue and control over a ride. But an MTB is not a dirt bike with engine vibration and other dynamics.

Fasst Flexx handlebars: Single plane of motion, not much vibration damping

UPDATE 2020: While I have no plans to give up my TE bars, if I was buying bars now I might consider the Flexx system for moto: https://www.fasstco.com/collections/motorcycle/products/flexx-handlebar.

The problem is that Flexx bars do not help much with engine vibration: “My buddy in AZ has Flexx on his CR500: they are shakers because they use the CR250 aluminum frame. He reports zero difference in vibration with the Flexx bars.” (text from TT member)

2020: There are now videos comparing TE and Flexx bars: Search

https://roxspeedfx.com/products/2-pivoting-anti-vibe-bar-risers-for-7-8-handlebar

[*] Rox Pivoting Anti-Vibe Bar Risers: “Super happy”

“Quality product! The anti-vibration is subtle, but does help a little. Is it worth the extra money, only you can make that call.

“Do I recommend the Rox-Anti Vibe risers. Yes and No. They do help but they are not magic. The only thing that will stop a KLR from vibrating is that kill switch. ttps://advrider.com/f/threads/are-the-rox-anti-vibe-risers-worth-it.1129643/

“Normally due to vibrations my hand would go numb in about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Now it takes about 1.5 hours before my hand starts to feel somewhat numb, and close to 2 - 3 hours to feel like it did before the riser install. Again, this does not eliminate the vibration, but does reduce it.” Amazon

With XR400R forks on the 230F and 250F, the fork tubes are pulled way up--there is almost no clearance.

Solution: Mount the Rox inside the bar clamps. Note: Rox tech support says this is fine.

The Rox adds up to 2 inches depending on angle, so you may want to switch to a low-bend bar. I normally use ultra tall bars and switched to CR low bend bars.

Adjusting tension of the rubber bushings is important. If you have much movement rocking bars left to right, side to side the nuts are too loose. There should be slight movement pulling back and fourth, front to rear. This slight movement you won't feel riding

When the bike is parked you can feel the movement of the Rox. When riding, you cannot tell they have movement.

BTR results:

CRF250F with counterbalancer: zero vibration
CRF230F stock: Not too much vibration
CRF270F stroker: Vibration is not good on long rides: Rox makes it like the 230F stock

“Well worth the $150 to use these: big improvement. I'm super happy with Rox and highly recommend it if you have hand trouble.”

Update 1: In a flash of insight, Mike H. guessed that the stiff cross bar was a major factor. They cut the bar out and it made a big difference.

JHG comments:

Most standard 7/8-inch bars need a cross brace, I think. The newer 1-1/8 bars are stronger because of the tube diameter and don't need a cross brace. I think they absorb more vibration in general.

What about metal fatigue in the bars now that the brace (above) is removed? Lennard Zinn is a physicist and famous bicycle mechanic and frame builder:

“Bike riding is too much fun to have your ride ruined by suddenly breaking a part that has your full weight on it. Big riders particularly would do well to recognize that metal bike parts do not last forever. They have a lifespan, and there is wisdom in replacing them before they break. I have seen a number of owner’s manuals for aluminum stems and handlebars that recommend replacement after three years of use. I think that’s a good guideline for aluminum weight-bearing parts under big riders.

“For instance, I personally replace my aluminum handlebars after two years of use. Even with ideal maintenance, all components will eventually reach the end of their serviceable life, the length of which depends on conditions and intensity of use.” https://zinncycles.com/metal-fatigue-and-big-riders/

When I first got my 230F back in 2014, the PO had installed a PowerMadd riser which converted from 7/8 to 1-1/8 bars.

Little did I know this was the beginning of many fork and bar mods.

I am currently using the "Rox Pivoting Anti-Vibe Bar Risers" inside the XR400 forks as figured out by BTR above.

I think the Rox removes another 10% vibration from my overall stack of mods. That may not sound like a lot, but every bit helps.

What about a steering stabilizer with the Rox?

To install the Rox, the steering stabilizer had to be removed. The Scotts steering stabilizer must be exactly parallel to the steering tube. Because the Rox pivots, it affects this geometry:

It will take custom fab work to remount the damper. A plate will be needed to reposition the damper at the correct angle. Also the damper will need a longer arm so the Rox does not hit the pin.

This is not a deal-breaker: reducing vibration is a higher priority than the Scotts damper.

BTR: “Steering damper is not needed on stock 230/250f. Except we use high gearing so they go fast enough now to get hurt. Not so much the 250f but the 230 and 270 with 15/45 gearing, tall 400x18 tire, and the 6 speed. They can easily hit 70+ mph, even uphill in sand wash. Chop throttle at that speed and there is bar swap. The damper stops all that: no death grip

Update 2: BTR got a Baja race truck modder to tilt the damper mount slightly and the damper is installed post

Thread: https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1421597-rox-anti-vib-risers

Above: 24 August 2022 BTR with JXG. Updates 4, 12 June 2023.

Link: https://bit.ly/3AOKsaY

https://shop.xcgear.com/collections/mako-360-handle-bar-mounts

Other possibilities

Triple clamps with elastomers

“Proprietary urethane elastomer bushings provide excellent vibration damping characteristics.” http://www.appliedrace.com/

Scotts RDS only for KTM/Husky

“This system adds rubber mounts to your stock triple clamp to help isolate vibration through the handlebars and your hands. This mounting will raise the bar height 5mm over stock. The BRP RDS (Rubber Dampening System) Bar Mounts offer excellent vibration dampening by using (8) Poly-Urethane bushings to isolate vibration and reduce rider fatigue by softening the harsh spike of hitting square edge rocks and obstacles. https://www.scottsonline.com/Product_Purchase2.php?Bike_ID=7287&BI_ID=883815

BRP Rubber Dampening System Bar Mounts: appears identical to above https://slavensracing.com/shop/rubber-dampening-system-bar-mounts-by-brp/

XCGEAR Mako Bar Mounts - Impossible to fit old-school triple clamps?

“We used the Vibrometer app on an iPhone to test the results of installing a MAKO360 system on a 2017 KTM 300XC*. The results were impressive. Max vibration reduction—the sort of reduction you can expect when hitting a tree root, for example—was 38%. Just sitting at idle you’ll benefit from an 18% reduction in engine vibration.” Vibration Test Results - XCGEAR

*Note this engine already has lowered vibration: “The all-new two-stroke powerplants used in KTM’s 2017 250/300EXC are fitted with an ingenious, centrally mounted counter-balancer that reduces vibration levels by an astonishing 50 percent.” https://transmoto.com.au/ktms-two-stroke-counter-balancer/

There is one mention that these fit the CRF230F post, but BTR, Mike H., and I worked this hard for 230F with XR400 forks in late 2021 with a MAKO kit in hand and could not find any solution.

The central problem is that old-school upper triples like the CRF230F, XR400, and CRF150R have cast-in lower bar clamps and these interfere with the MAKO bolts.

Another challenge is the XR400 fork tubes have to stick WAY up to preserve geometry on the 230F “mini-bike” frame. The photo above does not show this interference problem.

Would the MAKO mount to the RSW triple for the XR400 on a CRF230F? Possibly, but it would not clear the fork tubes.

What about mass dampers? Fasst may work

2014: Vibranators: Expensive and I did not think they worked on my XR200R. Yes, helicopters have mass dampers on the rotors. No, motorcycles are not helicopters. Won’t fit inside newer bars.

2020: Note that Fasst sells inserts similar to Vibranators so maybe their engineering, measurements with instruments, and rider testing supports their use.

2022: Fasst is a “mass + elastomer that says it fits protaper/renthal 7/8 bars. I think the ones that are just weights probably don't help much.” https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1421597-rox-anti-vib-risers/?tab=comments#comment-17070631

Section above: 8/24/22, 12/14/21, 11/11/21, 10/8/21 by JXG

Link to this section:

Fasst Impact Elastomer Footpegs: Very expensive, very good

Back in 2018 some of us repositioned our CRF230F footpegs using the xplodee plate. I used these plates, a pair of CRF250X OEM pegs off eBay, and the meticulous Ramz writeup http://rickramsey.net/CRF230Ffootpegs.htm to fit the pegs. The whole footpeg relocation saga with lots of photos and even some animations is here: http://bit.ly/2ywFctx

Recently I have gotten interested in more vibration reduction. I noticed after riding the moto (but not MTB) I would wake up in the middle of the night with an ache in my knee. The high (engine) and low (impact) frequency energies of dirt bikes are not healthy.

I was aware of the Fasst elastomer pegs but had always dismissed them because of the price. But having come through a bunch of (very successful) PT on my shoulder, suddenly $260 for a pair of pegs did not seem like much if I was going to continue riding the “pain machine” (as the Dirt Bike Magazine editor’s orthopedist refers to dirt bikes).

How do the pegs work? “The cleat is isolated from touching metal to metal through our base elastomer on the bottom, and cup elastomers on top.” https://www.fasstco.com/products/impact-moto-peg

The design is US patent 6390488. Notice the isolation is omnidirectional: there is absorption during both up and down motion.

Researching

As usual I looked for testimonials and there were plenty. These are from the Fasst website and Rocky Mountain A&M:

“Revolutionary.. Stop thinking about it and just pull the trigger...The difference in these pegs and the vibration they absorb before it gets into your soles ( and then transmitted to the balls of your feet and your calves ) is night and day! If you ever doubted their efficacy, you only need to take your foot of the peg and lean the sole of your boot on the side of your engine or frame and feel the battle going on between all the metal in your engine that you're missing out on! Stop thinking about it and just get a set.. you’ll never look back!

“I've used them in the muddy conditions, dry conditions & on long tarmac stretches. They felt great everywhere. They offer a nice platform, good traction & best of all, they take the sharp edge feeling when hitting rocks & roots. They definitely took away the metal to metal feel you get w/ the stock pegs, the vibrations too. They really are a comfortable ride on your feet, knees & lower back. Its very noticeable after riding all day. They don't move & you won't even feel them flex, but they offer enough give to take the hard impacts off your legs. You know if Fasstco makes it, its going to work & be a quality product like everything them make.

“I've not ridden pain-free since having knee surgery years ago. It gets so bad that I have to drastically change my riding style at times. I purchased these pegs hoping to benefit from the wider platform, and for a small degree of pain relief. Boy did I underestimate them!! My first ride was 4 hours of gnarly mountain single-track. The feel of the wider platform is great, giving a better sense of stability and control when things get crazy. And the wide open design means mud never packs on the peg. But the pain relief is nothing short of miraculous! I never felt any pain whatsoever, and no soreness afterwards. I'd give these things 10 stars if possible!

A richness of operational experience comes through in these reviews.

I use Fasst elastomer bars on my mountain bike - and really could not ride much without them - so I know elastomers work. Fasst is a quality company that manufactures in Utah. I was sold.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1391001-absorbing-the-vibes-fasst-impact-moto-pegs/

Install

Since there were 2006 Honda CRF250X pegs on my bike, I used that model in the selecter and ordered Part# FP-100CR-RED. And here they are:

Here you can see the layer of elastomer and the aggressive cleat pins:

The transplanted 2006 Honda CRF250X OEM pegs took a fair amount of grinding to fit onto the 230F with xplodee plate, as explained by http://rickramsey.net/CRF230Ffootpegs.htm. So I was puzzled but pleased when the Fasst pegs went right on with no grinding at all:

There is a trick to working the alignment of pin and spring required for peg installation. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers like a tapered “bull pin” in the hole lets you both align and tension at the same time.

You can see the first-generation xplodee plate at right:

Results

On the very first ride there was a noticeable reduction in engine vibration while standing. It was significant while sitting also. For whatever reason, I tended to notice this more than the impact reductions mentioned in the reviews.

For cleat grip, there was no comparison to the old 250X pegs. I couldn’t just slide my boot off the pegs, now I had to lift the boot. It actually took a couple of rides to get used to. This was all good and I felt much more stable.

Overall leg fatigue was reduced. Most importantly the knee pain at night went away.

One of the reasons is probably my riding weight. With armor and hydration pack, I go from a 175 pound guy to a 225 pound guy. That is quite a weight gain to put on the feet, ankles, knees, hips, etc. and vibrating and impacting the whole stack is not healthy.

Afterthoughts

Now that I see the Fasst patent drawings with three CNC’d components and 36 total parts (cleat pins are not shown in the drawing), per peg, the price point seems reasonable. A lot of functionality and strength has to be squeezed into a tiny space. This is what we pay for these unique boutique items invented and made in the USA for a small market of devoted riders. With small volume and high costs, manufacturers have to charge a commensurate price to stay in business.

At some point I will pull one peg off, put the ancient CRF250F peg back on, and do a side-by-side comparison.

UPDATE Feb 2022: Ramz: “I used 2012 CRF250X brackets and got a pretty good alignment, but did the grinding oh so slowly so I didn't go too far. I stopped just short of level footpegs.” - post. I realize my pegs are not level so this is a future adjustment.

Posts

Section above: 14 December 2021 by JXG

Link to this section: https://bit.ly/3s6EvCb

https://docs.google.com/document/u/1/d/1mEsw891e5HUdLIrq4yYQzm2QCsRgK-ihDkrL_fu7_iA/pub#h.2obvkfb6iqfs

Clutch lever upgrade

A recent thread on clutches got me interested in lighter clutch pull to reduce riding fatigue and tendon wear. I rigged up a luggage scale to do an approximate measurement and got these numbers:

AJP PR4: 9 lbs, maybe as low as 6 lbs. About 3 lbs after blasting out with PJ1 and Blaster Silicone Spray.
CRF230F: 14 lbs stock lever, before cable lube
CRF230F: 12 lbs stock lever, after cable lube
CRF230F: 5 lbs with MSR Pro Raptor Adjustable

On the CRF, you can see that lubing the cable and switching to the MSR Pro Raptor Adjustable made a big difference: 15% then another 40% for a total of 65% reduction. Pretty good. But switching to the MSR required some changes to the bar layout. Here are the details.

Note: This is an easy upgrade limited to the hand lever. For a more in-depth upgrade you can modify the other end of the system at the clutch: internal option and extending the lever option.

Clutch lever upgrades

You can spend some serious money on a clutch lever and perch, for example:

$115 Righteous Stunt Metal

“The RSC reduces clutch pull effort by up to 50%”

$126 Pro-Taper Profile Pro RMAM

“Two lever reach adjustments give 50mm of tunability”

$160 Works Connection

“Lever ratios designed to match your brand of bike...”
“I installed the Works Connection Elite clutch perch on my 230F, it was night and day difference than my OEM/stock clutch lever/perch.In my personal opinion it's worth the cost. I have not checked the drag/pull with a fish/spring scale, but it's significantly easier pull than the stock lever/set-up. I also installed a new clutch cable with the WC elite perch... I keep it clean and well lubed which also helps. - Falcon 1 post

$250 Magura makes a hydraulic clutch that fits the CRF230F: RMAM

I decided to go with the “MSR Pro Raptor Adjustable Clutch Lever Assembly Hot Start Shorty Red” because of its reasonable price and details about how it reduces pull.

This MSR is no longer on RMAM, but is available from an eBay source who apparently bought all the inventory.
The “Moose Racing EZ3 Clutch Lever Assembly Red Shorty Lever / Perch Assembly O221-005” (ebay) seems to be the replacement, per baglock1 post.

The closest MSR page is here. Here is a more detailed description that I pieced together from a couple of sources:

“Choose from 3 positions according to your clutch pull and riding style:

Top position for increased cable pull
Middle position, same as standard lever assembly
Bottom position provides an easier pull (325% less effort)

(That would be 70% reduction?)

Cable angle adjuster is an anodized pivoting regulator, easy to adjust and eliminates cable drag in all positions
Vulcanized, exclusive silicon rubber grip for improved control in all weather conditions
Needle bearing for free lever movement
Rubber boot to keep elements out

(But does not include a boot over the cable end. Because of the shape of the adjuster, it is not clear what would fit.)

Below, you can see the three holes corresponding to the top, middle, and bottom position. The hot start lever at the bottom has already been removed:

Below, you can see the cable angle adjuster. There are three notches that it can be set in. Because I was going to use the bottom position, I moved the angle adjuster down after taking this photo. This angle adjuster is why you can’t just drill holes in your existing lever and have it work smoothly.

The MSR has two limitations:

There is no clutch safety switch. I would like to have one, but they are apparently not popular because I have never seen an aftermarket perch with a switch.

With the stock perch removed, the bike will have to be in neutral for the starter to get power. This is not practical for technical riding so I connected the two clutch wires together. So what could possibly go wrong? One scenario is the bike is down and the starter switch is pushed by something on the ground.

A lot of dirt bike perches do not have a mirror mount, and the MSR is no exception. I have had good results with the “7/8-in Handlebar Mount Clamp 10mm Thread Mirror Adapter For Motorcycle Bike ATV” (Amazon) so I used this.

The install

The first thing I did was lube the cable, which dropped the pull by 15%. I used a cable luber with Blaster Silicone spray after the saga of the unusable PJ1 and Boeshield T-9. You want to flush the cable out thoroughly, with lubricant pouring out the lower end and carrying grit with it.

My starting lineup on the left handlebar looked like this:

The Kill switch (OEM or “K&S Technologies 12-0101 Honda CR Style Engine Kill Switch”?) is compact but kind of junky. Mine has been getting very intermittent. Plus, now that I have lights I need to turn off the system with the key switch instead of just killing the engine like the stock bike. (Note if you have a modern rectifier/regulator it can shut down the lights about 30 seconds after the engine is off.)

Mirror mounted to the stock perch. All dirt bike mirrors are a compromise between staying in place and breaking on impact. I use the $12 Ken Sean 970510 Black Universal Dual Sport Mirror (Amazon). It folds out of the way, but the tension control is with nuts and a hassle. I tend to leave mine up and have broken several. (See below for another approach.)

The infamous Amazon handlebar control switch, complete with random wiring connections (Amazon). Really the only thing I use here is the horn button for blind corners in heavy vegetation. If I had it to do it over I would choose the Tusk Compact Control Switch which has a celebrity endorsement by Frickin’ Jim. The Tusk is 1/8-inch narrower and three times the price. If the Amazon dies I will buy a Tusk.

BTW: For any bar-mounted device, you want to make sure it has a “split-perch” so you don’t have to slide it off the end of the bar. Since all my stuff was split perch it made rearrangement fairly easy.

Here is the finished lineup on the left side. I positioned the MSR to allow two-finger use and it feels good. The horn button is further away but still reachable:

The exposed cable end is not good since I often ride or transport in heavy dust conditions. I will probably just wrap a bicycle inner tube around it with some wire ties. Sano!

I could actually fit the kill switch in, but moved it over to the right side instead. It is crammed in between the throttle and brake master cylinder:

UPDATE 2019. Newer options are in this thread.

Above: December 2016, updated slightly 15 October 2018 and 31 march 2019 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2JvXVMh

http://www.gutsracing.com/CRF230_Seat_Foam_p/sfcr360.htm

Seat issues and upgrade options

As Frickin’ Jim points out in his review of the classic XR250R, modern dirt bike seats are not designed for comfort: link to video quote. The seats are minimalist, with assumptions that the rider is going to be racing and standing. Also they look sleek and stylish. None of this helps the long-distance trail rider.

The typical advice is, stand up. Well, I stand up all day at a sit-stand desk in the office. But I can’t stand up for longer than a few minutes on the pegs. And it’s just not practical for all-day backcountry riding carrying a heavy pack.

When I mountain bike, I have minimal discomfort even riding 6 hours on a thin saddle. But dirt biking can be painful, especially in hot weather wearing full armor.

Butt sensitivity depends on many variables like individual skin toughness and pelvic structure, age, weight, smooth vs. rocky trails, etc.

Before we get to seat options, here are a few butt options:

Keep clean with baby wipes, especially when out camping for multiple days

Use A&D ointment, the classic diaper rash preventive and healing agent. The active ingredient is lanolin, or sheep grease. It works very well. I typically put it on before every ride and sometimes even carry it on the trail. If I am going to be riding for multiple days, I put it on before bed each night to work on any irritation.

At home, clear up any acne with cleansing and a benzoyl peroxide medication

Make sure you are not sitting on seams. Many types of underwear and outdoor clothing have seams right over the sit bones. This creates pressure points. Notice how these Baleaf tights (below) do not have any seams over the buttocks. Check what you wear... you may be surprised what you are sitting on.

Consider padded cycling shorts. “Baleaf Men's 3D Padded Bike Bicycle MTB Cycling Underwear Shorts” Amazon are good and cheap. These have a lighter version of the blue foam in the Moto Skiveez, without corrugations.

Frickin’ Jim recommends Moto Skiveez link.

UPDATE 2018: I have ridden with Skiveez in rocky conditions and they help but I am still glad I got the Seat Concepts upgrade below.
UPDATE 2020: The Skiveez are good but very expensive. These MTB shorts https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJWVPV7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 are similar at a fraction of the price. For me, they are actually too thick for MTB but I will compare them to the Skiveez on the moto.

Comparison of Skiveez and Baleaf briefs, turned inside out to show padding:

^^^ Obviously the Baleafs are designed for the shape of a bicycle saddle, where the sit bones are right at the edge of the saddle. The Skiveez are much wider and the material is pleated. I would estimate the Skiveez padding is about 2-1/2 times as thick as the Baleaf.

Now onto the seat upgrade options...

What you need is simple: more surface area under your sit bones. More surface area equals less pressure on your sensitive skin. The bicycling community actually fits seats to butt dimensions: “It’s difficult to imagine a cyclist these days buying a bike saddle without knowing his sit bone measurements.” SQLab

Courtesy of SQLab

For motorized trail riders, you need a wider seat and typically a softer foam. Here are the main options by increasing cost.

Guts: Foam to fit stock cover = $90

They have soft, medium, and hard foam but the width does not change.

Seat Concepts: Foam and Cover kit = $175

“Seat Concepts seats are constructed using a foam material that is a much higher quality than OEM seat foam. Our proprietary formula provides a more plush and active ride, while still offering the necessary amount of support. Our unique comfort shape maintains a similar contour to stock at the front of the seat so the rider’s legs are not spread farther apart, but tapers out towards the mid-point to distribute rider weight over a greater area.”

https://seat-concepts.myshopify.com/products/honda-2003-16-crf150f-230f-230x

The CRF230F seat is about 9-1/8 inches wide. See project below for install details.

Fisher: Ship them seat = $300

“If you want more comfort from your stock seat, then the key is added width which provides more support for a better foam density. Stock covers need additional vinyl for trim with widened seats. You have your choice of vinyl for this trim or a new complete cover.”

“Riders 180lbs+ are usually equipped with medium foam. The 'extra soft' option will remove more OEM/stock foam and be replaced with a second layer of our foam. This is often a soft/medium combination adding $20.“

http://www.fishersaddlebags.com/aftermarket_seats/honda/crf450x_xr650r.html

They make CRF230F seats at 10 inches and 10.5 inches wide:

Avoid local upholstery shops even those claiming a motorcycle speciality: These good folks typically don’t understand the ergonomics of street bikes and have no clue about dirt bikes with vertical acceleration. I wasted hundreds of dollars on a custom seat built of open-cell foam. The artiste had photos of his award-winning seat designs on the walls, but he did not know how to provide function. I had to completely rebuild it myself as documented here.

Above: 27 January 2021; 27 March 2018, 7 October and 10 December 2017 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2uj2qCn

Seat Concepts upgrade and results

I decided to try the Seat Concepts option after noticing that most serious backcountry riders have them on KTMs, Betas, and Huskys.

Seat Concepts provides helpful advice on stapling the cover: “The best option for a staple gun is Harbor Freight's Wide Crown pneumatic stapler. (Item number 68029). We recommend T-50 stainless steel staples, and it is important that the depth of the staple not exceed ¼-inch.” page

Requires: 0.3 CFM @ 90 PSI

I used my HF 97080 3 gallon compressor: Air delivery: 0.6 CFM at 90 PSI, 1 CFM at 40 PSI.

T-50 Crown 20 gauge staples

1/4 in. x 7/16 in. Crown 20 Gauge Staples, plated HF
T-50 assortment, plated Amazon
1/4-inch NailPro stainless steel Amazon

There is a huge difference in width, from about 7 inches up to over 9 inches. Visualize your sit bones on the stock seat at left and the foam at right:

The first step is to separate the old foam from the seat pan:

Next you use spray adhesive to carefully attach the new foam to the stock seat pan.

Since dirt bikes get wet, you want to cover the foam with the included plastic to help keep water out of the foam.

Then you put on the new cover:

This is easy and fun with the staple gun:

RESULTS: Big difference! Compared to stock, the seat now feels like the bench seat in a big pickup truck. I still use A&D when riding multiple days in a row, but this seat has made all the difference in riding comfort.

Link: http://bit.ly/2uj2qCn

Above: 10 December 2017 by JXG

Mirrors

Round 1: A low mirror under the handlebars

Mikerbike looked at my mirror above and commented: “A Tusk dual sport fold up mirror ($9 RMAM) sold for right side use can be mounted on the left side under the bar. Your waist is not as wide as your shoulder so it can be further in under the hand grip where it is a lot further from getting whacked by off road obstacles.” (post)

Fernacticus added: “I have been running a mirror mounted under the bars for some years, It's the only place that the mirror will survive a tumble. The first ones I made used an old Bark Buster type mount and a second hand road mirror. Cut the stem to length, run an 8mm die down it to put a nut on the end and adapt to the space you have.” (post)

This gave me the idea to try a Ken Sean mirror mounted underneath like this:

After taking this comparison photo, I removed the top mirror since I’m not really into the Mod look (Sting in Quadrophenia).

I will be trying the low mount for the next few months.

My only reservation about this arrangement is whether in a bad fall / crash rocks or brush could drive the mirror up into my hand. I will try moving it over a couple of inches.

UPDATE 28 March 2017: I am liking this mirror but the mount has to be very tight on the bars. I drilled out the handlebar clamp to 1/4-inch and replaced the bolts with M6 x 40mm socket head cap screws and put lock nuts on the ends. The clamp is now super-tight without stripping out the threads in it.

Update 21 May 2017: I am liking this mirror position even though it can be bumped by my knee (below). Notice the neutral indicator light above the chainsaw rack.

Above: 21 May 2017, 7 January 2017 by JXG

http://www.flanderscables.com/

[*] Cables

CRF230F clutch cable rebuild or extension

Option 1: Flanders parts

Note: “Measured” means I used a digital caliper on the bike

Not sure of stock length of conduit

This is the closest ferrule I can find: for 6 mm conduit, 2.5 mm cables

Inner cable measured: 0.072 inch which is close to 2 mm

Shank Clutch-type end measured: 6.5 x 10.2 mm

Barrel end measured: 10 mm x 6 mm

Option 2: Venhill kit

Venhill U01-1-100-BK Universal Motorcycle Clutch Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/Venhill-U01-1-100-BK-Universal-Motorcycle-Clutch/dp/B00O1C26SW

1.35 meters 7mm OD Teflon lined outer conduit
1.6 meters 2mm OD galvanized steel wire (1 x 19 strand)

Will the adjuster work? It looks like it but not proven:

CRF230F adjuster:

Venhill adjuster:

Soldering

Venhill says: “PLEASE NOTE: We strongly discourage the use of a propane type torch to heat and flow solder into the wire. This is likely to overheat the wire, causing it to become brittle and break. We recommend immersing the wire ends in a molten solder bath, such as that in a solder pot.”

Options

Keep the flame on the end, not the cable
Powerful electric soldering iron like the EXSO 500 watt
Home-built solder pot: get a black iron pipe cap, maybe 2 inch, heat it on a camp stove or with a couple of propane torches, or MAPP gas

For any soldering I would use acid flux and solid solder. Bar solder for the pot is not cheap. After soldering the end should be defluxed (scrub in dish detergent), dried, and lubed to prevent rusting.

Bottom line: given your time, and the costs of items like bar solder if you have to mail order it... getting Motion Pro to build a custom extended CRF230F cable may be the best option.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/

Above: 31 October 2021

Long link: https://docs.google.com/document/u/1/d/1mEsw891e5HUdLIrq4yYQzm2QCsRgK-ihDkrL_fu7_iA/pub#h.kd6btoqk4zel

Bitly link: https://bit.ly/3o2l0r9

Carb troubleshooting tactics

The wisdom of Adnohguy post

Above: 19 March 2019 by JXG

Uncorking the CRF230F: Current state of the art

“The most popular, and the most essential CRF230F mod: Uncorking / Jetting. This is such a simple task, yet so many people shy away from it! What is it? Uncorking/Jetting is removing the “plugs” that Honda intentionally puts on the bike to dumb it down. - Frickin’ Jim

“As most everyone knows, (thanks to Mike Coe, VortecCPI, Adnohguy, and BTR) we basically have the stock 230F jetting down to a near science.. 118/120 Main, 45 Pilot, needle clip in 4th groove from top, 1.5 to 2 turns out on fuel/air screw, snorkel removed, exhaust uncorked, BBR/ProCom CDI.. the stock 230 rips with these simple modifications and adjustments. - Falcon 1 post

Like many things CRF230F, uncorking has gotten a lot of work over the years. The TT jetting thread is 51 pages and a thousand posts (March 2019), but you don’t have to read it. The key updated items have been pulled out below. Many contradictions and updates have been resolved and organized.

What about the Honda “Power Up Kit”? The “Power Up Kit” (PUK) is no longer considered state of the art. You can do better for cheaper. Minority report? The PUK still has its fans as in this post

Do not try to uncork a bike that is not running properly. You will introduce too many variables. Get the bike running properly as a baseline starting point then uncork. Follow the Troubleshooting strategy and then tests specific to the 230F.

Here is the current state of the art with some crowdsourced details, gotchas, and comments.

The definitive illustrated guide to doing the work is by Ramz: highly recommended.

CRF230F stock carb is Keihin PD9CF: diagram and parts Partzilla

JIS screwdrivers for Asian phillips fasteners are good, especially to avoid stripping carb screws

Float level is very important. Before removing the carb, check float level with clear tubing connected to the drain / vent line: “Optimal float level is at the mating seam where the float bowl mates with the carb body. Low fuel level in the bowl could cause a lean mixture; likewise.. a high fuel level could cause a rich mixture. Spot on would be at the top of the float bowl mating/gasket surface” - Falcon 1 post

Remove the carb and set float level if needed: see Float level measurement and adjustment for the procedure

Needle. Install a stock '03-'05 needle 16012-KPS-901 Partzilla

“The OEM 2005 and older needle IS the superior needle to ANY OTHER NEEDLE” - Adnohguy post

If you have a 2005 or earlier model then you already have this needle, unless the PUK has been installed. The presence of a 132 main jet is a PUK tipoff.

Needle clip in 4th groove from top

The needle comes with a needle jet that goes down in the carb body below the needle. Should you replace it?

“All the rattling around a dirt bike gets slowly wears the jet needle and the needle jet, and causes poorer operation. If your carb hasn't been rebuilt in many years, it is reasonable to replace both.” - tedcool post
“If needle jet has any wear you will never dial in jetting correctly. I race vintage bikes and this particular subject has always been a problem. Many a bike ran like shat till I swapped the needle jet. remember your needle and needle jet are basically 3/4 of all your jetting range.” - teamrude post
“If it looks worn, replace it. Deciding if it looks worn is the hard part. And deciding how to get the old jet out without damaging the carb is a puzzle also. I used a wood dowel to remove one once. Pay attention to the orientation of the jet. People are constantly trying to put it in upside down. It has a different taper on each end.” - Ramz email quoted with permission.

If you have a 2007 or earlier model, you can follow the Ramz procedure

If you have a 2008 or later model, see Changing the carburetor needle on a 2008 and later model for some modifications

Main jet depends mainly on elevation

Sea level = 120 99113-GHB-1200 (Partzilla)

“Mike Coe determined a 120 main was safe and optimal by way of dyno work while monitoring A/F ratio. However, he clearly wrote that the 120 main was still conservative but he thought that was the best recommendation to be made. For example, if your float level is too low or you ride when the air is very cold a 120 is still safe.” - VortecCPI post

3,000 - 5,000 ft = 118
5,000' - 6,000' = 110
6,000' - 10,000' = 108
10,000'+ = 105

But.... the uncorked 230F tolerates a very wide range of jetting, so opinions vary on jetting. From high numbers to low numbers, here are some examples:

BTR: Sea level to 2000 feet: 132 main, 45 pilot

Temp 50s to 90s+. Stock engines. Stock carbs. Exhaust baffle out. Airbox lid out. All screens cut in air box.
Note BTR has done side-by-side tests with multiple bikes.

JXG: For 0 to 6000 ft, even over 10K as an experiment: 135 / 45. From 5000 to 12000 ft: 115 / 40.

Temp 30s to 90s, stock engine, uncorked: screens in and lid on, Moose or TwinAir filter, OKO carb, genuine Keihin jets, ProCom, PowerBomb, stock exhaust with factory baffle out and Toogoo in. Plug is gray on the ceramic and black on the electrode.
In 2014-2015, with stock carb, airbox baffle out, baffle out, I ran 132 main from 4000 to 9000 feet and liked it a lot.

Adnohguy: “If your bike truly runs better with a 130-132-135 then your float level is off! (Very common problem)” post

The carbs above have verified float levels

Adnohguy: “The 120 main jet is actually just a little bit rich even at sea level at 70F average outside air temps. At sea level and 40F temps the 120 main would be right on and then above 2500 ft an 118 would be closer to ideal at 70 temps. If you’re only riding above 5,000 ft, you might try a 115 main and drop the needle 1 slot.” post

JXG note: Adnohguy’s numbers are supported by the Mike Coe dyno work mentioned above.

Note on jet numbers and brands. Bigger number = bigger hole = more flow = richer.

Cheap jets? If jets are not genuine Keihin the sizes may not the same. This is the case with "Deni” jets: link. Deni seem to be about three numbers LESS than Keihin. So a Deni 105 was found equal to a Keihin 108. Not a big deal. On the other hand, cheap jets could be way off and thus defective.

What about plug colors? The old charts are not relevant to unleaded and oxygenated fuels. See “Tuning by plug chop” below. JXG comment: Checking for white porcelain vs. super-black is still reasonable. If you see white porcelain, that is way lean and engine damage may have already occurred. Super-black thick soot is rich.

Pilot jet. 45 Pilot Jet (aka Slow Jet) 99103-MT2-0450 (Partzilla)

“Most of these bikes like a 45 pilot and a few like a 48 in colder weather” - VortecCPI post

Kouba fuel screw is a very worthwhile addition so you can adjust the idle mixture while the engine is running.

Must buy two for $40, shipping included: Kouba
Can buy one for $22 plus shipping: CrfsOnly

Verify correct float level after reassembly using tubing:

“Not sure how the floats got bent, possible from bending tab to set float height a few days ago. Also, it's entirely possible the floats were bent the last time I tried to adjust the carb, and this contributed to not starting/running rough.” - Falcon 1 post

“When you put bowl back on carb, it is very easy to mis-align floats” - BTR post (Note both these posts refer to PWK carb, but still relevant)

“Mine was leaking recently because I bent the tang because I was not paying attention when I installed the bowl after a cleaning.” - 1gr8bldr post

What about gasoline? “10% ethanol pump fuel runs leaner than fuel without ethanol.” - Adnohguy post

Mods to go with the carb mods above:

Air box baffle removed: this is the main restriction. This will make the engine run lean so make the jetting changes above first (ref).

Backfire screen?

“Mike Coe leaves the screen in because he could find no gains with stock or mildly-modified engines. Frank Nye takes the screen out.” - VortecCPI post

“There is no benefit to removing the air filter box screen on a stock 230f [or 150f]. Neither bike uses enough air for it to make even the slightest difference in power. (Or jetting). Example: my 230f with over 13:1 compression 262cc with a 30mm xr250r carb, ported and a huge custom cam has a bone stock air filter box with all three Factory screens in place.” - Adnohguy post

Rubber boot around the airbox opening? Removing it provides 20% more area but this only changes the calculated velocity from 10 to 8 feet per second: not significant - VortecCPI post

Keep in mind that the engine needs some back pressure to function properly. Removing all resistance to airflow is NOT the objective here. - VortecCPI

A high-flow air filter like a Twin-Air, etc. is a good addition

Any exhaust

But: “The EO Outlaw system likes a 110 main, as did the EO PoweRing. These exhaust components seem to have had little or no impact upon the slow/pilot size.” - VortecCPI post

If stock exhaust, exhaust diffuser removed or modified: see Ramz

Leave the spark arrestor screen in place
Keep the diffuser (baffle) in case you need it to pass a noise test or you sell the bike. The factory diffuser is very expensive to replace but there are very cheap alternatives.

BBR/ProCom CDI box is probably the best bang-for-buck upgrade you can make for responsiveness. See ProCom CDI and Dial-A-Jet upgrade for some quotes on the ProCom.

Idle screw adjustment. The idle screw jacks the slide up and down so there is no specified number of turns. It varies. The number to set is idle RPM: 1400 +/- 100 RPM per Service Manual page 5-3. JXG comment: I set my idle RPM around 800 for compression braking on technical singletrack. It is extremely helpful in reducing brake use, slide outs, going off switchbacks and over cliffs, etc.

Fuel screw adjustment. “Any time the float level, the pilot jet or the needle position has been changed, the idle mixture screw [fuel screw on stock carb, air screw on some other carbs like the OKO] should be adjusted for the fastest idle speed, then set your base idle speed where you like it best.” - Adnohguy post.

The process is explained by Ramz with slight reformatting here.

You also want to check throttle response. See the PWK procedure for this second step.

An easy and precise technique using a tachometer

“I use a flex driver that stays hooked up to my modified screw. This way, I am not going by memory but rather turning it back and forth listening. Even then I had no confidence so I bought a cheap tach that reads in 20 increments. Now I just watch the tach. Much more precise in that I can now dial it in better than by ear. Most cheap tachs read in 60 increments. But...... this is for the given, elevation, temp, etc. It will not be correct if done in the summer versus winter. This is the whole point of the screw being set where you have a range of adjustment, keeping you in the parameter for winter or summer fine tuning in the field” - post

Replaceable battery model with 10 RPM resolution: Amazon. Note this uses the somewhat unusual CR2450 battery; keep a spare around

Reinstalling the carb. The carb must go completely into the intake manifold boot. Otherwise you will have air leaks. It should look like this:

^^^^ It takes a lot of force to get the carb to snap into the boot.

Above: 14 April; 19 March 2019; 26, 12 December, 7 January 2017 by JXG and others as referenced

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2jsi1qM

Float level measurement and adjustment

“Proper float level trumps ALL jetting you may be trying to do. It is the FIRST thing you should check before changing anything. .... It is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL!” - VortecCPI post

The tube test showed my fuel level was low, about 5 mm below the fuel bowl gasket. Why does this matter? The Venturi “pump” of the carb is designed to lift fuel about 15 mm to the carb throat where it is atomized. By lowering the fuel level another 5 mm, I’ve added 25% to the lift needed and made the engine run lean. How lean? Significant but unknown. There is a curve somewhere.

Adjusting float level can be challenging and even contentious: post. I worked through this post and tried to figure out what was going on.

First off, where is the float level gauge to be placed? The Book (Honda Service Manual, p. 5-14) says:

“Set the float level gauge so it is perpendicular to the float chamber face...”

In other words, vertical when the carb is upside-down on the bench

“and in line with the main jet”

In other words, cutting directly across the main jet or about midway along the float

Ramz explained this in the post above and here is what it looks like:

That’s the easy part. Now the valve timing, which is harder.

The Book it does further say: “With the float valve seated and the float arm lip just touching the valve, measure the float level...”

Here is the operating sequence that I see, with the carb upside-down and the floats facing the sky:

The wire bail lowers the float valve towards the seat
The valve stops moving: it is now seated
The float arm lip keeps moving a tiny bit
The float arm lip touches the spring loaded part of the valve
The float arm lip compresses the spring loaded part of the valve

My interpretation is that the measurement is performed at #4, not at #2. If this does not make sense, reread the Book above: seated (#2) and touching (#4).

Identifying the exact moment of #4 is not easy. You need to get an angle where you can see around the wire bail to observe the tiny gap between valve and lip.

Here is one way to do it:

Raise the float up high
Gently place the gauge on the float with the correct alignment
Lower the float slowly with the gauge riding along on top of it
If the gauge touches the edge of the bowl before the lip touches the valve

The valve is late. The fuel level will be too high and the lip needs to be bent downward (towards the carb) so the valve activates earlier.

If the lip touches the valve before the gauge touches the edge of the bowl

The valve is early. The fuel level will be too low and the lip needs to be bent upward (away from the carb) so the valve activates later.

I did this a few dozen times and finally decided that the valve was activating about 1 mm too soon... sort of. Maybe? But this interpretation matched the independent evidence of the tube test, which was good. So I bent the lip upward a hair (away from the carb, raises the float).

This is not easy, because the steel is springy and you have to estimate how much to overstress it. To avoid misaligning the floats, I did the lip bending with a small screwdriver in the center where the structure is strongest:

Filled the bowl with gas on the bench and... about 3 mm high now. So I bent it down a hair (towards the carb, lowers the float). Filled again, and close enough!

I opened the bowl yet again and measured: 12.5 mm and the lip just barely kissed the valve. It was subtle. It was beautiful. It was a pinnacle of mechanical design. Who’s up for EFI?

BTW I tried the technique of blowing into the fuel line, but the results varied with pressure. It is too easy to pop the valve open. I could not get consistent results.

Some have argued that the float should always be parallel with the edge of the fuel bowl. From this perspective, you don’t need a gauge. You just need to make the float parallel by eye and then adjust the lip so the valve is right.

Here is parallel, or as close as I could get to it:

This is what 12.5 mm looks like on my carb:

They are not that different. I would guess that on some floats, parallel works out to be about 12-13 mm... or close enough.

“As you found out, the gauge gets the floats in the ballpark, but the wet-set dials it in” - k-moe post

Above: 29 December 2016

Link: http://bit.ly/2Q0bpCJ

Changing the carburetor needle on a 2008 and later model

The needle retainer mechanism has changed and the Ramz procedure needs to be altered slightly for 2008 and later. Here is the change, courtesy of the Honda Service Manual, p. 5-11:

Because after 2008 the pins face in opposite directions, the link is locked in place. You can’t simply remove the link spring and slide the link out as Ramz shows. You will need to remove the throttle drum, which probably means this procedure can no longer be performed with the carb on the bike.

Below is the slide mechanism. The link arm locking screw has been removed with a JIS #2, so the arm now pivots freely. I’m getting ready to remove the spring, unaware that this is no longer necessary:

Even with the spring removed, the link is trapped. You need to pull out the throttle drum to release the whole assembly:

I decided to remove the needle retaining screws with the slide in place, an alternative technique described by Ramz. This protects the needle from being bent while the screws are being removed. I used a JIS #2 screwdriver:

Note above I am holding onto the link with pliers to keep the slide from turning. On a 2008+ model it is likely that the link and link arm could be left connected, and just flipped back and forth to allow access to the screws.

With the needle screws out, here is the whole assembly. Notice how the link is trapped between the two pins. For 2007 and earlier models, the needle retainer pin points the other way so the link slips off when the spring is removed. Again, it’s not clear that the link even needs to be disassembled for a 2008 like this.

With the needle changed out, reinstalling the needle holder. The needle is hanging out the bottom so this has to be done very carefully:

Above, I was able to slip the link on but it should probably already be installed at this point.

The link and spring reassembled:

Now reinstall the throttle drum. First, don’t forget the plastic washer that goes on the shaft between the link arm and housing. You also need to clip the circular return spring into position. Note how the spring clips onto the upper right, above the stamped “G”:

Getting the screw into the shaft can be quite challenging. Remember that the top of the shaft is not threaded. The threads are actually on the bottom. If you can see threads on top, the shaft is upside down.

I slackened the circular spring to a kind of half-cocked position, like this on the left:

Somehow this let the shaft go further in, allowing the holes to line up and the screw to go in. I then pulled the end of the spring to full tension by hooking it around the carb body where the pliers are pointing: above right.

Make sure that everything is working smoothly and then put on the cap. This “pump-jack” mechanism, the powerful spring, and the push-pull cable mechanism all produce the snappy throttle action of the CRF230F.

Above: 31 December 2016

http://www.bikers-store.fr/data/fichesTechniques/docs/Mikuni%20HSR%2042-45-48.pdf

Carb tuning techniques

Tuning by feel

VortecCPI post: “For those of you who have not seen this I suggest you read the tuning section in this manual:

“The test is started with the engine running at an rpm high enough to ensure that it is “on the cam.”

Open the throttle fully and let the engine pull for several seconds.
Then, quickly close the throttle to about the 7/8ths position.

If the engine seems to gain power, the main jet is too small (lean). Fit a larger jet.
If the engine hesitates as the throttle is rolled off, the main jet is too large. Fit a smaller one.
When the main jet is correct, the engine will continue to run smoothly and evenly as the throttle is closed.

Tuning on a hill: Powroll method

Posted by VortecCPI:

“These jetting specifications are designed as a rule of thumb. They are in no way absolute. Variations in air density, specific gravity of fuel, altitude and other engine modifications play a large part in jetting. It is the responsibility of the owner to determine proper jetting for their engine.

Plug reading doesn’t work. Revving the engine while it’s sitting in the garage doesn’t work. Other than Dyno testing, the steps below are the only way you can consistently jet your engine.

1. Find a gentle slope that you can ride in 2nd or 3rd gear. Look for something that will put a decent load on the engine. This will be your tuning test area.

2. Make the recommended jetting changes. Always start rich and work leaner.

3. A basic outline of which jet is active at a particular throttle setting:

Pilot Jet = 0 to 1/4 throttle. Needle = 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Main Jet = 3/4 to Full Throttle.

● Changing the Main Jet size won’t affect how your engine idles or runs at 1/4 throttle.

● Engine RPM isn’t what determines which jet is active - only throttle position does this.

4. Start and warm up the engine, then ride your ‘test hill’. Any point where you feel the engine stumble or hesitate indicates a rich condition. Note the throttle position and modify the corresponding jet (1/4 to 1/2 throttle = leaner needle. 3/4 throttle or more = leaner main jet).

5. Only change jetting by 1 step at a time, and 1 circuit at a time (don’t change needle and main at the same time). Re-check after every change.

6. Once the engine runs smoothly throughout, you’re jetted!

If you ever notice an abrupt change loss of power, or engine sounds changes, shut it down.”

http://www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/plugchop.htm

Tuning by plug chop

“You can not just pull the plug after riding around. There is a procedure and it requires sustained WOT run time in a high gear preferably up a slight incline. Then you kill the engine, pull the plug, and examine the electrode at the very bottom of the plug. This can be done using a good light and good eyes or magnifier or you can chop the plug threads off with a saw. Today's non-leaded and oxygenated fuels do not color plugs like the old days.” - VortecCPI post

Jetting adventures 2016: Stock carb, ProCom, IntelaJet

These two sections (2016 and 2017) illustrate some of the process and mystery of jetting and mods. I make no claim of expertise. But I sure had a lot of experiences along the way and I think I learned some things.

Key points about this saga:

These setups were intentionally lean for the IntelaJet
I considered removing the IntelaJet and going back to 132 main repeatedly because it had worked well from 4000 to 9000 feet elevation.
Eventually I removed the IntelaJet because it did not seem to do much
I switched to an OKO/PWK and now run 135 main most of the time
Despite a lot of notes, I don’t claim to fully understand how the saga unfolded

References

PD27 on XR’s http://www.socalxrs.com/carb_problems.html

Options http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fdiy.htm
CRF carb rejet http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fcarb.htm

Detailed how-to with many photos

Rejet for power http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fmods.htm

Important: Until 12/31/16 my float level was too low and the bike was running lean. This should be kept in mind as you read the following. Also the plug tests were not performed properly.

Purchased used in CO (6500’) in 2014. Carb never touched until Oct 2016 when the status was:

Home elevation: 5000 feet
132 main in place (this is the signature of the Power Up Kit)
42 pilot in place
Presumably has Power Up Kit needle (16012-KPS-921)
Fuel screw untouched: 1-3/4 turns out
Intake baffle and exhaust diffuser had both been discarded by previous owner

1/29/16: installed “Bikers Choice Exhaust Pipe Baffle 1-1/2" OD Steel 64301” (Amazon) to reduce noise

Ridden between 4600 and 8700 feet, always with good response
Plug very dark but not fouled

10/7/16

110 main installed: 5,000' - 6,000' per Honda
Power-up needle and everything else unchanged
WOT test: Plug much lighter at 6000 ft
ProCom CDI installed: very impressive improvement in low to mid-range response

10/9/16

Kouba fuel screw adjusted to 2-1/4 out
IntelaJet (IJ) installed
**** Problems began after this ****

10/12/16

105 main installed: 2 sizes down from 110
IJ set to most rich
WOT test: Plug light with some tan on insulator and electrode

10/14/16 Chami test rides at 6600 ft

Did flat road runs at various IJ settings. Started lagging in midrange.
Up steep trail and it would cut out completely. Just fade away, like it was running out of gas.
Stop, level bike, and then it would restart.
TT comment: “They (IntelaJet) not only add fuel into the main jet area but also the needle area. If you have some sort of richer needle in it go back to to the stock lean emissions needle.”

Home

Back to 110 main
Disabled IJ: Blocked off IJ injector, tied off supply line, set to Rich which closes the air bleed
Test ride on level ground: A little gap in transition around 3/4 throttle, but seems good again. (Wrong.)

10/15/16 Chami test rides at 6600 ft

Same behavior occurring with IJ disabled
Cutting out at same spots going UP steep hill. Noticed gas on rocks, float bowl overflowed. Tapped on bowl with wrench.
Found that I could run it at high throttle (3/4 plus) and it would keep going up hills
Tried setting Kouba to 1.5 out.
Even reactivated the IJ, which seemed to help some
Did Mikuni roll-off test on level ground: implies main jet is correct
Idea: Maybe the float is hanging up on the IJ fitting because I did not put it between the floats.

10/18/16:

I filed the IJ fitting so it is perfectly flush with the side of the bowl
Float level: "lip just touching the valve" (Service manual, p. 5-14) = about 7 mm. Bent tab slightly down and it now begins to depress the spring-loaded part of the valve at 12.5 mm.

Tubing test was about 5 mm below the target line. This means the engine is running lean.

Kouba set to 2 out
108 main installed
New TwinAir filter to replace what looks like OE
Test ride: Seems OK on level ground, but still there is that gap or sag around 3/4 throttle

10/21/16: Trail ride: It ran fine with the Intelajet fitting filed down.

My note: "With the 108 main, the IJ is currently set at 1-1/2 turns out. This is the default. I tried many settings and really have trouble detecting a difference. This could mean I still need to go leaner."

10/23/16: Removed airbox ring (boot) around opening, exhaust diffuser. Could not really tell any difference, including noise level. Reinstalled both.

11/5/16: Diffuser in, seems quieter

11/11/16: Stopped on the trail and removed the diffuser: with the ProCom CDI I really noticed that it seemed plugged up and less free revving.

12/31/16: Changes to conform with Uncorking the CRF230F: Current state of the art

108 main was in place, removed
42 pilot was in place, removed
Power Up needle was in place, 3rd groove from top, removed
Kouba was 2 turns out: this is near the limit of 2.5 out, which means the pilot is undersized
45 pilot installed
My float was low on 10/18/16 as tested by the tube method. This would make the main run lean. See Float level measurement and adjustment for the solution. Float level now set correctly.
Needle 16012-KPS-901 installed, 4th groove from top
105 main installed for now: 2 sizes lean for IntelaJet
Airbox boot removed again just for the heck of it: 20% more area.

Jetting adventures 2017: Stock carb, Procom, IntelaJet, 112 main for high altitude

May 2017: I rode up to 11300 feet with everything as listed above
Fadeout problem: On steep sustained climbs, running up around 3/4 throttle, the bike will just fade out like it is running out of gas. It just... dies. Don’t know how else to describe it.

It starts up again right away. Flow through the fuel filter is good.
I have tried to reproduce the problem on shorter climbs, but it seems to take at least one minute of sustained hard load.
This is at altitudes of 6000 to 9000 ft. Plug is dark, but I have not done a formal plug chop test.
Running 105 main which is about 2 sizes lean for the IntelliJet. IJ is generally 2 to 3 turns out. The IJ is a confounding factor: never quite sure what it is doing. Could be the source of the problem.
Nothing like this happened when the bike was running with 132 main and the power up kit. I am half tempted to go back the original setup which always worked perfectly despite using a ridiculously rich jet. The only thing I would keep is the ProCom box.

6/1/17: Switched to 112 main
6/6/17: Put on clear tubing, opened drain valve: level went way high, after a bit gas came out of airbox -Tapped on bowl, then it would start up -Level about right now -Conclusion: float seems to be sticking intermittently

6/14/17: Float valve had a tiny fiber stuck on it when I held it up to the light. Replaced with new valve from Moose kit. Problem solved!

Lessons learned or relearned:

Slightest contamination can cause intermittent problems
Cleanliness is essential when reassembling
Run a fuel filter (have had one for quite awhile)

7/28/17: With PowerBomb now installed and 112 main installed in June, need to check fuel screw

I think it was set at 1.5 turns out
With the tachometer I found that 1-3/8 out gave 800 rpm pretty consistently

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1237065-have-you-guys-seen-the-2017-ajp-models/?do=findComment&comment=13854152

Ignition timing mod by changing flywheel key

ProCom CDI box

CAUTION March 2017: FJ reports that the ProCom does not limit revs and damaged his engine. Discussion points:

Less of a concern with more stock engines post
Never a good idea to rev the engine high with no load on it

Pry the connector tabs away from the plug to release

Failure is possible (post) so carry the OEM or an extra box with you on rides: “My actual ProCom box only lasted a couple months” post

An inexpensive ($9) CDI box is available which is likely very similar to a ProCom box post

I strap my box on with a “leash” run through the connector and then two wire ties. This way if the box falls off it will still dangle from the leash:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/1069529-Dail-A-Jet-Review

ProCom CDI and Dial-A-Jet / IntelaJet?

VortecCPI has a very interesting discussion of low compression engines and how more throttle response can be gained. Key quotes:

“Procom CDI is HUGE Bang-for-the-Buck on this low-compression engine IF you ride slow short tight technical. These engines respond in the same way low-compression engines did back in the mid-70s to mid-80s. We used to dial them up from ~8 BTDC to 16-20 BTDC (total of 36-38) and the difference out of the hole and up to 60 feet was quite noticeable.” - VortecCPI post

“I believe with the Dial-A-Jet and Procom CDI the bike is a changed machine. For an investment of $150 (Dial-A-Jet and Procom) you can't go wrong IF you are an off-idle and low-mid torque junkie like I am.” - post

“I'd have to say the big difference with the Dial-A-Jet is how the bike pulls from the mid to the top. It comes out of turns very, very hard now and occasionally pulls the front tire slightly off the ground as I exit a turn.” - post

“That 12-tooth c/s combined with the Dial-A-Jet and Procom CDI makes the little 230 grunt like a big block tow truck engine. I'm positive the smaller 112 main also made the throttle response far crisper. The combination of all these factors just plain works.” - post

Dial-A-Jet Review

This thread has some dyno results that show the DAJ / IJ work but as VortecCPI points out it is really the sensation of throttle response that matters and a dyno does not measure that: thread

See IntelaJet section for my experience with the upgraded Dial-A-Jet

The IntelaJet

“On my KTM 300 in 2008-11. I ran the Dicks Racing Keihin 36 mm Carb with the oval bore + Intellijet and it was almost like FI. Because you set the baseline jetting Super lean for clean off idle response and the Intellijet fills in the more throttle you give it. It was good for no changes +-4000 ft. Then you just adjusted the dial to lean it out if needed. I never felt the need to change any jets once the baseline was set. I ran Motul 800 at 50:1 and the plug was a perfect chocolate brown always.” link

The IntelaJet is a more expensive version of the Dial-A-Jet, with probably 5 sizes (not digits) of main jet adjustment. It is also easier to adjust because it has a remote control dial.

The injector goes just upstream of the carb. Placement can be a bit tricky on small bikes because there is seldom extra room. As the diagram below shows, the injector should be at 90 degrees to the airflow for maximum Venturi effect across the injector. The Venturi effect of air movement is what creates suction to pull the gas up:

(Diagram courtesy of Thunder Products)

I looked at various options for placing the injector. The only real location was into the rubber intake boot.

The boot is a common location and not a problem.

But the steepness of the boot meant the injector was going to be at a bad angle.

Using 1 mm aluminum sheet, I made a sort of "ski jump" mounting bracket that angles the injector. The bracket is held to the boot with two sheet metal screws.

All penetrations of the boot are sealed with silicone.

The injector ended up well-centered and close to a 90 degree angle to the airflow:

Gas supply, round 1. Thunder Products sells a deep well fuel bowl nut that is claimed to reduce the reality or potential of starving the main jet. I bought one and found a few difficulties with it:

Tapping a carb bowl is not difficult because it is thin. But the deep well nut has very thick walls: about 5 mm. I drilled by hand and the hole was too distorted to tap. So I redrilled on a drill press.
There is limited clearance between the deep bowl and the starter as you can see here:

You have to very carefully choose which side of the nut to tap. Facing the exhaust manifold is not good.

Gas supply, round 2. I gave up on the bowl nut and tried the option of connecting to the drain line as shown in the instructions. This produced unusual behaviors on the CRF like surging and gas leaking out of the airbox.

I finally remembered what I had already figured out when I tried the IJ on my AJP: the carb drain is not just a drain... it is also a vent that needs to be left open at all times.

(Even on models where the drain line is not a vent, I would not give up the ability to easily drain the bowl of E10 gas, etc.)

Gas supply, round 3. I tapped directly into the float bowl. Center rear, so the line runs away from the exhaust manifold and starter.

But the fun was still not over. The CRF ran out of gas on uphills: see Jetting Adventures 2016.

It turned out the float was hanging up on the tiny lip of the brass fitting.

I filed this down so it was completely flush and the IJ finally had a gas supply that worked.

Side note. A lot of people get frustrated with taps because the sets never include the one instruction you need to know. The key to using a tap is backing it up to clear the cuttings. Each time you turn clockwise a quarter-turn, stop. Now turn backwards a quarter-turn to clear the cutters. Then go forward again.

Routing of the fuel supply line and the remote control tubing (top).

I included a one-way check valve in the gas supply line. “For even better throttle response” it seemed worth a couple dollars.

IntelaJet remote control installed on the gas tank:

UPDATE December 2016: The blue polyurethane (?) fuel line runs through a high-heat area just inches from the exhaust pipe. The kit includes an insulating sleeve to protect the line where it comes out of the fuel bowl:

Be sure to use this. A leak could start a fire and/or leave you stranded.

IntelaJet jetting: 110 nominal for home elevation of 5000 feet

108 = lean 1 size
105 = lean 2 sizes
100 = lean 3 sizes 99113-GHB-1000 (Partzilla)

^^ VortecCPI recipe ^^

098 = lean 4 sizes 99113-GHB-0980 (Partzilla) (JetsRUs)
095 = lean 5 sizes 99113-GHB-0950 (Partzilla) (JetsRUs)

UPDATE, December 2017: With the OKO carb change I removed the IntelliJet. It never really seemed to do anything significant. Not recommended.

Water crossings and a carb vent snorkel

Having the engine die in water is generally not a good thing. It can result in anything from wet boots to the bike being dropped and flooded. In the high country stalling can be the first step towards hypothermia if you fall and get wet in an alpine creek.

The primary limit of course is the opening at the top of the airbox. Waves will swamp this from several inches below. But there is another item that will stop you long before you get that deep: the carb bowl drain line.

The carb bowl drain line is more than that. It is also an overflow and most importantly a vent. If this hose gets blocked by water for more than a few seconds the engine will start to cut out. Pinch the line and try it. On my KLX250S and AJP, I found this happened from either submersion or even heavy splashing.

Note: This is a very simple carb. Other carbs have multiple vents that may need to be modified. Examples in this post.

The traditional solution is called a “T-Mod.” It is easy to make one.

A high snorkel serves as a “vacuum breaker.”

The drain line is 0.23 OD x 0.12 ID, basically around 1/8-inch.

I used a Rainbird irrigation T-fitting placed 2.5 inches from the carb:

These fittings are cheap and designed to languish in gardens, so they are not very tough. I broke one during installation and will be looking for something tougher.

UPDATE: At some point the plastic “Tee” broke as expected. I replaced it with a “Legines Brass Hose Barbed Tee” which has three ⅛-inch barbs from Amazon.

The 1/4-inch vinyl snorkel runs up along the crankcase breather, then past the air box opening, and ends under the seat.

The overall plumbing should form a “Y” shape. Make sure everything drains down, so that fuel or water can’t form a blockage.

We’ll see how the vinyl holds up. It should probably be replaced with Tygon which is rated up to 165F.

If you use a mechanical rear brake switch, you may want to seal it up with silicone then fill the inside with dialectric grease (Amazon) to keep out water.

Remember that even with seals the wheel bearings, linkage bearings, and swingarm bearings are all vulnerable to water entry and rusting. If you anticipate water crossings, make sure the grease is waterproof, thick and fresh. Consider servicing after submersion. See Rear suspension inspect and grease for how-to.

Important: Before entering water, check to make sure the tube has not come off at the carb fitting!

Above: 14 March 2019 updated by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2Cg8Y6q

Exhaust upgrade options

The PowerBomb header

The stock head pipe is a significant bottleneck: post.

FMF PowerBomb, $170 CrfsOnly

Manufacturer statements:

Increase in gas flow up to 10%
Lowers exhaust note up to 1.5 dB.
Decreased weight vs. stock

“It was your work along with Powroll's input that made me try the FMF head pipe and the results were quite amazing. The FMF head pipe resulted in a BIG gain right in the middle and all others who have tried it have concurred. This is counter-intuitive to the auto world where we like long skinny headers for tow and RV work and short fat headers for high-RPM work. In the case of our little two-valve engines the larger head pipe seems to net gains across the entire engine operating range.” - VortecCPI

“The fmf powerbomb I installed {with a perfect fit i might add !} on my 2005 450x totally smoothed the power! The 450 is so fast "out of the box" I wasn't sure if anything would even be noticed! I was wrong,power delivery is just sooooo much smoother and it also "tamed" the exhaust bark, which at 53 years old I was ready for more power with less noise ! It also seems that what they say about less noise tires out the rider less is true ! I can go rip out a 60 mile loop in mendocino national forest and feel great when I'm done, not exhausted from the racket!” - review at RMAM

Modding the OEM Muffler and Removing the Swage on FMF PowerBomb - baglock1 post

PowerBomb install

I found the old header could be removed without removing the muffler, but the new header could not be reinstalled. Removing the muffler only takes a few minutes. I used JB Weld Red silicone on both joints.

Note the PowerBomb is a tuned resonator chamber. The pipe diameter does not change. The pipe connects to the chamber through a single hole as shown in Patent 7510050:

Folks have actually become indignant that the pipe does not enlarge into the chamber. It’s OK. It’s physics. Really.

Stock header without heat shield is 1.48 lbs. I forgot to weigh the PowerBomb but it felt lighter.

Stock:

Side by side:

Installed:

Heat shield installed with hose clamps:

After this photo was taken I added 1-inch sections of 1/2-inch aluminum channel to hold the heat shield slightly off the pipe. This will keep it a bit cooler.

RESULTS: On my standard street test I did not notice any difference in response at all. The exhaust note seems a little different. For noise level see Sound level measurements.

First trail ride: Not a dramatic increase, but there seems to be a slightly improved "response zone" in the upper midrange.

Above by JXG on 28 July 2017

Link: http://bit.ly/2FicPDF

$500 http://xr100.com/outlaw_series_exhaust_pipes.htm

EO Outlaw system

“As discussed in numerous threads, this sucker is LOUD” post

“The EO header is an even larger diameter header then stepped larger yet, and made a very easily noticeable difference just by bolting it on. Night and day. No question at all. I was pleasantly surprised and could not believe the difference.” - Adnohguy

“The last thing I did was get one of Frank Nye's awesome Outlaw exhaust systems. I know from experience how well a properly-designed tuned exhaust system works so I was very hopeful for good results. Not only did I save two pounds of weight and get more low-mid and high-mid, I also got a bunch of top end power. I swear it feels as if I have more CR, more CCs, or more cam. I got WAY MORE than I expected with Frank's pipe. While most of the time the bike is doing slow short tight technical work the pipe really is a charm when dealing with fast long open areas or when I need to hold a gear longer. When Frank says it could be the difference between being #1 and #2 at the end of the day I believe him.” - VortecCPI

Frickin’ Jim shows and discusses the “unique” Outlaw system https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbNBE8dWS5Y

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/programs/fire/spark_arrester_guides/_assets/OHV209-308Blue.pdf

Sound level measurements

“Sounds of less than 75 decibels, even after long exposure, are unlikely to cause hearing loss. However, long or repeated exposure to sounds at or above 85 decibels can cause hearing loss. The louder the sound, the shorter the amount of time it takes for NIHL to happen.” - NIH

Like many I bought a used CRF whose exhaust diffuser is gathering dust on a shelf or in a landfill post. Note: There is a still a spark arrestor screen even if the diffuser is removed.

Ramz on diffusers page

In 2015 I tried the “Bikers Choice Exhaust Pipe Baffle 1-1/2" OD Steel 64301 492611” Amazon. Later I took this out because it did not seem to make any difference in either power or noise level.

Then in 2016 I put it back in but it seemed to greatly constrict the now-uncorked bike running a ProCom CDI. The bike would just not howl up test hills. I compared it back to back with open muffler and the difference was very noticeable. Again, since it also didn’t seem to lower the noise level much so I left it out.

Finally I got around to measuring the difference.

I followed the procedure in the USFS “summary of the SAE J1287 JUL98 stationary sound test procedure” document:

There is no RPM listed for the CRF230F so I held the throttle at around 4000 rpm as measured with a “KEDSUM Upgrade Version Waterproof Hour meter Tachometer” Amazon which has a precision of 10 RPM.

This is the test setup. Nexus 7 2013 tablet running “Sound Meter” app at a distance of 20 inches from the exhaust. This is not a calibrated device:

Here are the results:

This data, if it is correct, suggests that on the SAE J1287 test:

the Bikers Choice baffle does not have any effect
the PowerBomb (PB) is about 1 dBA louder

I should have used an app that actually exports numerical data but the graphs are pretty clear. I cannot explain this. I would have expected a visible difference.

On the other hand just 3 dBA is a doubling of sound pressure and most of the time that cannot be perceived: page.

Anyway... this is why I always wear 32 dBA earplugs whenever riding.

UPDATE Sept 2018. A reader asks whether these small differences are significant given an uncalibrated device and not controlling for background noise level post. I agree the instrumentation is not optimal.

Here are the curves.

CRF230F stock header no baffle:

CRF230F stock header with baffle. It does look like it idles a bit quieter.

After I added the PowerBomb header, no baffle:

PowerBomb header, with baffle:

Here is my 2014 Beta Evo Sport 300 4T, with Spanish Fly spark arrestor screen:

While this bike seems quiet when plonking around at low throttle, it really is not quiet overall.

Above by JXG on 29 July 2017, updated 15 September 2018

New information - 2018

Thread https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1073234-procom-cdi-review/?do=findComment&comment=14494217

New study on measuring sound level with smartphone apps

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0003682X17309945?via%3Dihub

Is the Supertrapp for you?

“It works so fracking well on a stock 230/150f muffler with a oversized header because it’s super quiet, make a noticeable increase in power when jetted properly (more than any aftermarket pipe that I have tested)” - Adnohguy post

https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/6657

Is it possible to quiet the CRF230F while maintaining power?

“While a four-stroke puts out good, usable power that a trail rider craves, the decibel level of a blown-out exhaust can is catastrophic to our cause. The axiom "less sound equals more ground" is absolutely on point, as we want to share the trails with mountain bikers, e-bikers and hikers, and not have them turned off by the racket of a big-bore thumper as it shakes pine needles off tree branches.” - Mr. Know-It-All, Dirt Bike Magazine, December 2019

Key experiment: “I had a 2008 CRF150F (sold it) I performed the recommended "uncork". Same as the 230 just a little different jet sizes. I really wanted to learn how to ride a wheelie for a long distance. My 230 is uncorked and running a FMF pipe, it's pretty loud.

The 150f uncorked was nowhere near as loud. In an effort to not piss off my neighbors, I slipped the baffle back into the tailpipe on the 150f. I'm pretty darn good at lofting the front wheel with a 2nd gear clutch up technique. I've done it many many times on the 150f. I can even ride it out a bit but wanted to be better at it. So the thought process was - baffle in won't change much and won't have the LEO swinging by.

I literally tried to get the bike to wheelie about a dozen times. I could barely get the tire to come up more than about half way to the balance point. I seriously thought someone had tied 100 lbs to the back of the bike. I turned around, went back to the garage and pulled the baffle. Back to the street, first attempt - pulled up to balance point. - GavMac78 post

“Our exhaust is noticeably louder than stock but not ridiculous. We have neighbors too. Unfortunately, power and sound go hand-in-hand - don't let anybody tell you different.” -- BBR Motorsports FAQ

BTR: “As far as any baffle mod on stock 230 muffler -- all will kill any extra power you may have. For me if I had to deal with street quiet, I would keep the stock baffle. When dirt bike riding remove it to make more power as any baffle even with mods is a power robber.” post

Ramz has photos of the stock diffuser and notes that “the spark arrester and exhaust diffuser are sold as an assembly”. However, the parts diagram only shows the spark arrester:

Aftermarket baffles

AirPro Buddy Plug review, $50

Kouba insert is $47: Has anyone tried this?

What about mods?

Good read ==> "How To Quiet Down That Obnoxious, 4-Stroke Muffler" or "Stealth Me, Baby!" http://www.blackdogdualsport.com/StealthMeBaby.htm

“Being active in keeping our riding areas open, we encounter many situations and opinions. Our club encounters a smattering of our riding friends who continue to ride with loud pipes. Emotional horsepower. Noise annoys. Period. Most of the 4-strokes nowadays have so much power, why would you want to go up another 10 decibels for a small amount of ponies? We also are around land owners, public and private. Many don't understand our sport, and we ALWAYS get hit with the noise issue.

If we were on closed-course areas, I wouldn't writhe over the issue, but our events are on public lands where people use the lands in other various ways too. That's what they remember - the noise. Noise annoys, and I don't buy into the "loud pipes save lives" slogan, although that's primarily for the street. I buy into the Team Stealth concept. Over the years, our events have slowly lost access to more areas due to loud exhausts.

One key point: a downward tip, especially if made of radiator hose, can help reduce noise significantly

Theory: Tunable baffle

https://www.tabperformance.com/Reduce-Back-Pressure-Exhaust-s/203.htm

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust.htm

Modifying the DB Killer

https://www.motorcycle-talk.net/forum/mt-07-fz-07-modifications/377-arrow-exhaust-db-killer-removal-modification.html

Gio’s mod of a Chinese baffle

The total area of the holes in the can should match the output cross-sectional area of the baffle (our baffle external OD is about 35 mm, but I'll take actual measurement). So I'll start with the "plug" located in the innermost position (toward the engine), leave open a number of holes to match the outer baffle area, and cover the rest of the holes with a layer of "rock-wool" (I mean the white type good for 4-stroker silencers). The idea comes from Vance & Hines:

https://www.amazon.com/Vance-Hines-Shortshots-Staggered-Sideshots/dp/B000GU7G56

The other thing I'll work on is the "plug" at the end of the can. I'll start with the solid plug positioned perpendicularly to the exhaust flow (the standard position, that is), then at a 45 degree angle (as per the links posted yesterday), and then drilling two tiny holes in it (I don't know if that additional area will make a difference).

Baffle used post

eBay

First impressions of the baffle alone. It seems quieter than the Biker's Choice one, flow also appears at least satisfactory; however a little louder still than stock baffle.

Wrapping the baffle: https://www.amazon.com/Vance-Hines-Shortshots-Staggered-Sideshots/dp/B000GU7G56?tag=viglink20633-20

I wrapped one thin layer of glass wool over the baffle for the entire length, and then another thin layer of steel wool.

"GLASS WOOL FOR SILENCER 297X207X8MM (MAD-403801410)" eBay Italy

I drilled some additional 3 mm holes on the bottom part (towards the engine - see attached picture). It turns out being extremely quiet; also it's easily adjustable (drilling additional holes, playing with the area covered by the wool) to find that subjective medium between noise and gas flow. I personally find it good for the cost you pay.

Above by Gio_crf_tt and JXG on 19, 10, 2, 1 October, 30 and 16 September 2018

Exhaust tip

The exhaust outlet has an effect on noise level: “Add an extension that points the exhaust downward. Add a thick cycle tube on the end of the pipe (pointing downward) or something thicker like car-radiator tubing.” page

Adnohguy’s metal tip is shown below: “It made my bikes sound like sweet running 250. Very nice subdued sound, not too loud.” post

^^ Photo courtesy of Adnohguy

Radiator hose 90 degrees: NAPA part 8016 post. Link: $32. Silicone hoses on eBay are much cheaper; see below.

^^ Photo courtesy of Kdxfan

JXG Build

Exhaust tip. GPI Racing silicone turbo tube. This has high heat resistance and the rubber material may soften the tone, as opposed to metal. The OD of the muffler is 49 mm or 1.92 inches.

2 inch 45 deg red eBay

2 inch 90 degree red eBay

Baffle. I got the “Toogoo Silver Motorcycle Exhaust Can Muffler Insert Baffle DB Killer Silencer 35mm x 140mm” which is very similar to what Gio used and $4 on Amazon. Here is another one: eBay.

^^^ Toogoo at top and Bikers Choice baffles

^^^ Toogoo has a moveable disk to adjust the number of holes that are open to the outside

What about muffler packing materials? Amazon search. Good reviews Amazon. Ceramic but not much material is provided and gets mixed reviews: Amazon.

Round 1: Toogoo wide open, 45 degree turbo tube

The muffler packing materials all seemed too expensive. I had some “USA Made Ceramic Fiber Blanket 2600F” blanket that is 1/2-inch thick. I cut it in half to 1/4-inch thick -- but when wrapped around the Toogoo it was still too big to fit in the muffler as Gio had done. So I just set the Toogoo disk on hole #8 or most open position. Also I added a lock washer to the disk adjustment screw.

Then I installed the GPI Racing tube and went riding:

Impression: A little quieter and no effect on power, unlike the Biker’s Choice which was noticeably constrictive when used with the ProCom box.

Round 2: Toogoo half open, 45 degree turbo tube

I did not notice any difference in responsiveness and the noise is reduced significantly post.

Above by JXG on 8 November 2019; 11 November; 21 October 2018

Link to whole section: http://bit.ly/2zFwpF3

Engine mods

Note: Terry Miller is not currently in the community; see this and this post

All the uncorking mods above can be done without getting into the oil zone of the engine. Engine mods are the next level. The payoff is big, the work is big. And it is all an integrated system so for real improvements you can’t just do a little here and there:

“Think of the WHOLE package. Proper exhaust / airbox mods / jetting / compression / headflow / induction. Match all for same purpose and you will be happy.” - Teamrude post

“There is no substitute for displacement. Get a Wiseco or Wossner 11:1 piston in 67mm and get with Terry Miller [Teamrude] for a thin copper gasket and one of his cams that he recommends for your riding style. You will not be sorry! Building one of these bikes is not cheap so you sure don’t want to do it twice. These are PROVEN set ups so I highly recommend.” - Titanman post

Will engine mods allow me to do throttle wheelies? Yes and no. BTR with stroked engine, see his build: “If you hit the throttle just right very slow speed second or third gear it comes up nice. Problem is, it’s a controlled wheelie. That means when riding aggressive it does not loft the wheel when you want it” to get over rocks or logs.

“Only good out of that is wet dirt super hook up hill climbing. With stair steps it goes up very easy as other bikes loop out.”

Here is an example of BTR doing a controlled throttle wheelie: video.

What is the real stock compression ratio? Honda claims 9.5:1 after 2005, which (according to Adnohguy) Terry Miller says is really 8.7:1 post

Cams

Displacement is displacement. Cams are different and their geometry produces very different behaviors--which need to match your riding style. In turn, the cams often place demands on other things like compression ratio. It’s all a System. Terry Miller of Miller Vintage Cycle reviews the proven options...

Teamrude on 21 August 2016 - post:

“I will try to make this easy as hear boatloads of questions on these and others. On top of that Web Cams sends their customers for cam recommendations.

There are 5 basic cams commonly available for crf230. I really don't count goofy aftermarket like HotCams etc so bear with me.

Web Cams has 2 standard commercially available cams. Most will know them. 40-402 and a 89A. 40-402 is a amazing tiny cam. And 89A is a big jump up BUT not perfect for most builds. Here is rundown on those 2.

1. 40-402 is a massive low-end torker cam YET has better mid to top than a stocker cam. Tells you how bad your stocker is!!!!!! Awesome bottom end power and works well with stock or moderate modified stocker. Too small for EO's 251cc big bore or 254 stroker. Great cam for Uber tight trails etc.

2. 89A is based off of a older XR200 grind from WEB. It does have some legs but kills bottom end most love the 230 for. It does work with 251 big bore or 254 stroker but there is ways to improve.

3. Problem is there is a HUGE area between #1 and #2

Megacycle makes a X-1, X-2 and X-3

1. X-1 is wonderful torker trail cam. Bigger than 40-402 yet retains great low-end. Boost from bottom to top

2. X-2 is in a lot of ways similar to 89A yet I feel is better cam. NEEDS a decent built 230 to use. Must have compression and CC's for best results. Also at limits of stock valvetrain.

3. X-3 is pretty healthy. Of course at this point CC’s, compression and headwork with exhaust required.

Here the new ST Super torker cams come in.

1. ST1.0 is a upgraded 40-402 with a little more intake duration (needed on these) and slightly modified lobe centers. Huge torker yet will make a wide powerband even up to moderate stroker or EO 251. This is perfect for tight trail with simple Wiseco/Wossner swap for piston. Headwork is always suggested but this cam is mellow similar to stocker only better EVERYWHERE.

2. ST1.5 this is a 1.0 that has been modified to make more aggressive snappy power. Has more peak torque with maybe 500-750 less peak rpm. This is perfect for offroad trail rider who likes a little snappy when needed. Will work with stocker or 233 Hi-comp. Even a 251/254 will pull like a diesel with this.

3. ST2.0 this is good step above 40-402 or "1" Series. this still has great bottom (especially in 10:1 233 or bigger) yet really wakes up midrange and will run hard near top-end also. Nice smooth OVERALL power and will work with stock to 251/254 all day long.

4. ST2.5 This is hotter version of 2.0. Quicker snappier power. Perfect fast offroad type power. Will lug all day yet very hard midrange so if you ride "firmly" in the trails you will like.

ALL ST series will work with stock springs and guides so no real issue with these.

I am working on a one step harder ST3.0 which will be a split duration / modified lobe center verion of 89A. What a 89 should have been from start!

Best suggestion I can ever give is to TRUTHFULLY evaluate your needs. Too big and you won’t be happy. Too small and you wish for more. Aggressive when you need smooth???. Think of the WHOLE package. Proper exhaust/airbox mods/jetting/compression/headflow/induction. Match all for same purpose and you will be happy. Welcome all feedback and questions. Just love this stuff so almost any question is not considered stupid.”

Cam upgrades need compression upgrades

“If I had a choice I would take a piston/gasket (10.5:1 or more) before I threw a cam in it. Very low compression never liked larger cams yet appropriate compression likes cam upgrades (plus pipe upgrades, carbs etc prefer efficient motors). There is just no way to get any compression on stock style 230 head without a dome, that is unless you add a bunch of CC's to it. Not at shop today but I think on stroker and big bore (270cc) a flat-top was near 12:1 at .035 squish.

“Only reason ST cams were made is results everybody had with standard 40-402 and the huge jump to 89A. Nothing in between and a bunch of small improvements in dialing in cam specs was possible. Do not discount quality of Megacycle cams on 230. High quality and easy on parts also. Only issue with Megacycle was they will not let me play with lobe centers etc so you get what they make. It is very good cam as even Frank Nye at EO loves them. pretty much any cam is improvement over stock camshaft. But once again I will say you need to address compression first. Virtually any motor I build starts at 10:1 as anything less is just a Briggs and Stratton.” - Teamrude post

“Just listen to the advice of Wiseco or Wossner. The combustion is large (22.5-23 cc on all I tested) that even if you had zero squish you would be under 11:1. Plus zero squish does not work!!!! .030 is about minimum on these and stock piston sits from .030-.035 depending on year and "stacked" tolerances. Use wiseco or wossner and either a .020 solid copper or 1 layer of stock gasket to get reasonable compression. Wiseco can be had for under 100 on fleabay and ZERO reason to use stock or Pro-X piston unless running fuel like 83 octane. - Teamrude post

Rider results

ST2.0: “Keep it simple, wiseco/wossner (65.5-67mm) thin gasket, 40-402 ST-1 ST-1.5 and if doing open area a ST-2.0 is possible. Pro-Com box and if possible have a little work done on intake port of head. Even with uncorked intake exhaust it is dramatic change in power. Watch Frickin’ Jim videos 7, 8, 9 shows difference AND you can hear and watch motor run.” - Teamrude post

“It’s a really great all-around cam. Prior to this cam, I’ve run OEM, 89a, and 340/402. OEM is lame, although it is probably the most durable cam out there for this bike. 89a is great on a motocross track but the low RPM pull suffers too much for technical riding at very high elevations. The 340/402 (40mc/402) makes the low RPM performance excellent, even at high elevation, though it gives up top end performance in comparison to the 89a. The ST2.0 I run is the happy medium between the 340/402 and the 89a.” - Frickin’ Jim site

ST2.5: “Love my 2.5 with the 67mm Wossner and ported intake from Terry. The bike is a absolute torque monster and will climb Mount Everest! I run 93 octane and in this summer heat hear no pinging even with the thin copper gasket. I do have some RaceGas booster mixed up in my riding bag just in case this Louisana heat kicks in.” “Yes stock carb with 122 main and 45 pilot, Procom CDI's and 93 octane in both bikes. IMO the fuel delivery is just fine with the stock carbs.” - Titanman post

Key threads

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1198801-super-torker-st-cam-info/
Terry Miller 2.5 ST Cam, Stroker, Wossner, Big Valve, Port/Polish, Outlaw Exhaust, ProCom CDI, and KEIHIN PWK 28 Carb http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1210720-crf-230f-25-st254cc-build-wkeihin-pwk-28-carb-jettingtuning/
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1212114-cam-info-for-crf230/#entry13490603
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1212389-crf230-engine-build/page-1
How to break in an engine - Mixxer post
Stroking increases vibration post

Above updated 12 March 2019 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2PLlCiB

Clutch upgrade options to handle more power

“Looking for any help with 2008 150F clutch??? Running the engines only 225 kit and it burns through clutches, 2 DP heavy duty clutches in 1 summer basically....anyone have any suggestions or anyone with EO225 what are you running and getting how many hours? - CReffed0421

What can the OEM clutch handle? Adnohguy post

Adnohguy post:

“Be sure to always use "motorcycle specific" engine oil. (JASO)
Lube your clutch cable with a "cable lube tool"
Lube your clutch lever pivot bolt with blue "waterproof" grease
Keep your clutch properly adjusted.
Use only OEM factory Honda clutch parts.
Throw away the judder plates and add an extra fiber plate in place of the judders.

Order some heavy duty clutch springs from EO (the place that builds the 225cc kits) (if they don't sell them then get a set of any year OEM factory Honda CRF230F clutch springs.) (Yes they are very powerful springs)

Place one 14 mm aluminum OEM Honda Automobile engine oil drain plug washer (crush washer) under each clutch spring.

Don't use aftermarket (generic) drain plug gaskets because the are usually only .040~.060 thick. Genuine Honda OEM drain plug seals are .080 thick

These above tricks, when all used together, will be bulletproof for up 25~30 HP if you know how to ride without constantly and intentionally abusing your clutch.

More than 30Hp? I have a sure fire repair for that also... (But it requires a needle bearing in the lever pivot.)(From Works performance)”

Honda washer part number for reference post

Details of part numbers and procedure post

Above: 1 April 2018 with suggestions by On2Whls

Carb upgrades

Stock carb dimensions post

Genuine Tygon fuel line for $2/foot Amazon

For major engine mods, don’t forget a new carb--it may be the needed finishing touch as reported by jeffrow68 in particular:

“These bikes respond very very well to the basic uncorking, the most bang for the buck since it is free. Even after adding 10cc's, more compression, a better cam, better exhaust, head porting, my bike was only slightly better than the free uncorking I did on my friends bike. But, after the OKO PWK, WOW!” ref

See the complete section on the OKO PWK.

Keihin PWK D-Slide Carb

Pros and cons by Frickin' Jim

Details including part numbers: post

XL knockoff carb Mixxer’s upgrade post and see Builds section for his results

The carb is an XL knockoff from eBay, which has an accelerator pump: “Carburetor for Honda XL250S XL 250S XL 250 S 1978 1979 1980 1981”

Pump shot nozzle aiming post can be difficult post

Caution on Chinese knockoffs BTR: he has found these carbs do not hold up over time and miles

1980 XL 500s carb post

Link: http://bit.ly/2fb8hPV

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1231731-pwk-carb/

OKO 28mm Carb Upgrade: A high-quality PWK clone from Taiwan

Note in 2022: MAT states that a 26 mm provides the best performance: see below

The basic recipe summarized by Chuck ref...

Setup for CRF230F from stevethe on TT

For low altitude
35 pilot
135 main
2.0 Slide
JJL Needle second clip from the top

Needle Jet: You need the short one, Sudco and JetRUs sell them. CR85s use them.

The jets appear identical, including ID, except for the height of the top. The long jet extends up into the venturi by 2.5mm more than the short one. The short one is close to flush with the floor of the venturi ref
Chuck: "Tried tall needle jet and it did lean out the idle circuit but little effect else where." ref

Float level issues: ref. Chuck: “a float level 1.5mm lower than spec”

A 230F manifold can be used and it will point the carb towards the air boot but its ID and OD are not concentric so some blending is required for it to match the PWK. [see photos below]

Results. Jeffro68 post:

“To summarize:

I have a modified 230 with 67mm BBR piston, head porting by Terry Miller, ST2.0 cam, full EO exhaust. Running the OEM 26mm PD carb was very disappointing regarding expected results. A big investment in parts and not so big improvement in performance. After asking some fellow TTers, the carb was identified as a restriction and the subsequent testing.

1. I bought the OKO 28mm PWK from Mid Atlantic Trials. I made some adapters and fabricated a custom throttle cable. The performance gains were very impressive with this carb. I was finally realizing the potential of this engine and really happy with the improved performance.

This carb is a 2T carb and all the recommendations on TT specify going to a 2.0 slide and JJL needle with short jet needle holder. I bought the additional 2.0 slide and needle, but somehow the original configuration with a 3.0 slide and supplied needle worked fantastic. I could not get the recommended 2.0 slide configuration to work as well, so I used the 3.0 slide. This setup works very well, it is a small carb, minimal moving parts, and the choke system does not restrict flow so is still functional (not a butterfly like the PD carb).

2. After reading reviews from the aforementioned TT members regarding the Chinese PD pumper clone [“XL knockoff carb” per Mixxer post, etc.], I bought one for my friends stock uncorked 230. It was a small investment and I did all the tuning and detailing on this carb.

Since I had it in my possession, I installed it on my 230 and compared it to the OKO carb with back to back testing. It performed very well and I was really impressed. It had a little more bottom to mid compared to the OKO, but not quite as much top end. Pretty much splitting hairs comparing the two carbs, but the OKO much better quality.

I installed this PD pumper clone on my friends uncorked stock 230 as originally intended. It is a very nice and impressive upgrade to the OEM PD carb. Noticeable improvement in throttle response and overall performance. However, he only trail rides on a local farm area, so having a very reliable and proven carb isn't a big deal. This is a concern for me since I plan to really use my bike in some venues that will require some real reliability.

3. Since I liked the PD pumper carb (clone) so much but was concerned about reliability, I eBay purchased a '78 XL250 Keihin PD pumper carb to put on my 230. I did the necessary cleaning and adjusting and installed it on my 230. Again, I got lucky and found a good working carb that only needed cleaning and a few adjustments. I really like this carb with my engine mods, and it really suits my riding style.

In my opinion, the pumper feature of this carb provides a nice boost to lighten the front end and also get the bike moving out of corners, maybe a little more snappy than the OKO but I like it.”

OKO 28mm PWK post, details, BTR mounting, and results

More Jeffro68 results: post

Threads:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1237450-ride-report-and-pwk-carb-update

Above: JXG on 10 September 2017, updated 3 December 2017

OKO 28mm PWK on an uncorked bike

Note in 2022: MAT states that a 26 mm provides the best performance: see below

2017: The saga begins: Adapters

A TT rider kindly allowed me to try out and then purchase his build which included carb adapters and a custom cable.

Carb

OKO PWK K-101 28 mm from Mid Atlantic Trials
Parts and diagram http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/K-101-Parts.html
Adaptation for the CRF230F

Front adapter: 40 mm OD rubber hose
Rear adapter: 46 x 54 mm OD steel exhaust adapter attached with putty epoxy
Building adapters: info here and updates here

Carb with home-built adapters. Note enrichment knob instead of choke, plugged oil injection port (blue cap), and vent port above the logo:

Blue cap. This could easily get knocked off. It is a good idea to replace the cap with epoxy or silicone. post

Left side with idle adjustment and air screw:

Carb in place:

I could not get the carb all the way into the intake boot notch:

^^^^ Notice there is very limited clearance between the idle screw, air screw and frame member. There is more information below about how to work around these access problems.

Cable specs

Started with a universal cable from Mid-Atlantic
Housing: 940 mm from ferrule to ferrule
Cable: 1015 mm from round end to where it enters carb through cable guide

Cable end was resoldered and other mods

Another way to make a cable using KTM Domino ref
Motion Pro cable part numbers here

Throttle end of custom cable:

Carb end of cable. Note the ferrule has slipped off in this photo:

Note this type of carb makes cable lubrication more work. Unlike the stock carb, any dirty lubricant that comes down the cable will go right into the carb slide. So I lubed the cable up before installing it.

I removed the stock double-cable system. The new cable was a bit shorter than stock. Below you can see that it did not connect at the top like the stock cable. But there was enough slack to include the plastic guide piece:

The fuel line has to be extended so it reaches over to the right side. I used some Motion Pro Premium 1/4 inch fuel line (RMAM) that I had: 6.3 mm ID x 11 mm OD. This was a bit loose on the fuel valve but the clamp stopped it from dripping. At the carb inlet it is thick enough that the clamp could not slide all the way down but this is a tight fit.

The bike fired right up with only a little enrichment. But it wouldn’t drop down to idle. The problem was soon found: the ferrule on the carb end had slipped off, effectively lengthening the cable housing. Once this was put in order the bike idled perfectly. A test ride around the block did not show any dramatic increase in response.

But the throttle cable was not done. Next, the cable housing moved and the bike idled too high or not at all. The key is very careful routing of the cable, and securing the cable housing tightly so it does not move. If turning the bars many times eventually makes the cable housing change position relative to the carb, there will be problems. The cable housing needs to stay jammed into the top of the carb. I did this with two straps and copper wire... the second time around. I now appreciate dual cable systems.

There also needs to be slack in the system so the slide will drop down to idle position. I settled on 1/2-inch of free play at the throttle tube, then reduced this to about 1/4-inch with the twist adjuster.

Boots and leaks

Neither end of the carb extends very far into the connections. So I wondered if the carb “spigot” to intake boot could be leaking: “Remember any leaks in the manifold will make a bike run like crap.” ref You will never get the carb adjusted. Also, dirt will get into the engine.

Spraying some carb cleaner around the boot suggested leakage. I sealed the junction with black RTV which made a bit of a mess. Note that “A CB 500f intake manifold rubber” may work, but it sounds like this is for a BBR frame ref.

Gasket 2.0

When I removed the carb to check the jets, I studied the pattern of the silicone that had formed. See the needle jet photo below. It was almost a gasket. There is about a 16 mm gap and the silicone reduced it to 5 to 7 mm:

I used some 11.3 mm thick Costco floor mat to make a thick gasket. The hole should be carved out so it fits very tightly around the carb bell:

Here is the side view:

Gasket 3.0

Above, you can see how the gasket is not pressed firmly against the boot. I tore down an aluminum project box and made an aluminum ring to press the gasket into position:

^^^^ The ring sits on areas above the fuel bowl... except at the top. There I made a little aluminum bracket to rest against the oil injection port. This was pop-riveted onto the ring.

You can see the gasket is now more evenly compressed all around:

^^^^ It doesn’t look tight above, but the manifold it actually sunk into the foam about 3 mm.

Gasket 4.0: No gasket

On the second ride I went down a long series of rock ledges and the bike started acting like it was running out of gas. Looked at fuel filter and realized... the carb is disconnected!

It was time to get serious about the carb mounting. The first thing I needed to do was understand the stock mounting.

The intake manifold has a raised ring as shown by the arrow below:

This ring snaps tightly into the depression ring on the carb. This takes a LOT of force and makes for a tight seal. With the manifold off I realized that I have not been reinstalling the stock carb properly. Here is how it should look:

^^^^ Notice the manifold boot is at the limit of how far it can go on. The locating notch should likewise be completely up against the metal fin:

At this point I was thinking I needed to get a custom adapter machined that would duplicate the ring and notch design of the stock manifold and carb. I worked up the dimensions in this drawing:

Download the PDF

But then I started playing around with the OKO and the manifold. I pushed my hands together, thus producing much more force than possible on the bike. I found that for the first time I could get the OKO (with rubber hose adapter) to go fully into the manifold. Here you can see the notch and fin:

I got an idea: if I always removed the manifold then I could use silicone sealant to make it a perfect seal.

So I lubed up the connection with silicone sealant and... it would not stay in place. The thin coating of slick silicone was just enough to force the joint apart. Sort of like how PVC cement will force joints apart. So after wiping off all the silicone and actually sanding the rubber tubing slightly, I got it to stay together.

Plan B. After tightening the clamp, I reached inside with my little finger and very carefully caulked the joint with silicone. A headlamp was helpful. Not perfect but it will have to do:

With the manifold permanently attached, there is a particular reassembly sequence that works best. Typically I do this after jet changes. A ratchet box wrench is very helpful.

Reinstall the slide and tighten the screws

Make sure the throttle cable is OK: the slide should be fully closed

Shove the carb back into the air cleaner boot

Again check the throttle cable for alignment

Move the carb forward and tighten the intake manifold bolts

Make sure the O-ring and gasket stay in place!

Tighten the air cleaner boot ring

Note the above can be done with the tank on.

So, I think the mounting challenge is finally solved:

Totally airtight thanks to high-temp silicone sealant
But the carb is also easily removable for jetting changes
Yes, you do have to remove the manifold and carb together
Which means the engine has to be cool
But you don’t have to reseal with silicone sealant

http://www.agrisupply.com/push-pull-throttle-cable-control/p/17253/

Peripherals, adjustments, etc.

Adjusting the idle can be challenging: CW is faster, CCW is slower.

I found a long straight screwdriver would pry it around a bit at a time. Be careful not to push too hard on the screw. I actually bent mine... because I was turning it so much... because...
If the screw does not have a very significant effect on revs in just a single turn, beware! You don’t have enough throttle cable slack.
It is best to reach in a thumb from the right side and a finger from the left side, which tends to work much better than a screwdriver. Again, when the cable length is correct you will have to turn the screw very little to dial in the revs.
If you can tap a 5 mm hole you may want to consider moving the idle screw, which is explained below.

Air screw? Extremely tight and can’t be relocated.... but see below for a radical solution that works very well.

Side vent hose discussion by Chuck here

Bottom hose: remember this is an overflow hose and a vent hose to allow gas flow into the fuel bowl. So if you are going to submerge a T-Mod is needed.

Removing the fuel bowl: lift up and toward the FRONT of the carb because of the angle vent/overflow tube

For the initial setup including adjusting the air screw and idle and fixing other problems, you may want to just put the tank on temporarily.

Enrichment Knob (choke)

The OKO has an enrichment knob, not a butterfly choke. This improves airflow. On my Beta Evo Sport the knob stays up when pulled up and after a very brief period the engine is ready to go.

The OKO knob does not stay up, which is very inconvenient. In addition, with my CRF230F the throttle has to be held part way open and it takes a long time to warm up.

So I ordered the remote enrichment knob kit from Mid-Atlantic:

As you can see, there is no cable. I can build that, but how to keep the knob pulled up?

I recall cable operated chokes and throttles on old engines that would hold in position by the friction of the cable and housing. The "cable" was solid stiff wire and the housing was a spring wrapped around it. May have to use something like this. Here is an example:

Has anyone set up the remote kit? See photo

Long arm of the law: Reaching the air screw

BTR reports drilling a hole through the frame here. Seemed like classic Mexican mechanical genius so I decided to give it a try. Well, it works. I burned up a couple of bits in the process. The location has to be just right and this is very close:

Below you can see a very long screwdriver bumping into the battery box:

I was able to avoid battery box modifications by creating a custom screwdriver out of a coat hanger. This bends just enough to snake past the battery box and through the holes.

Below you can see the end turning the screw at the left of the photo and the other end of the driver at right:

I made the tip by hammering the end flat and then filing it square:

Align the tip and a bend at the far end so you can easily count turns.

RESULTS: This makes for the easiest air/fuel screw adjustment I have ever done. Even with the Kouba fuel screw, it is always difficult to keep from getting burned on the stock carb. With the long custom screwdriver and the digital tach it is amazingly easy.

Moving the idle screw to the right side

The idle screw works by pushing the slide up slightly. Turning the screw CW makes it go further into the carb body, push up the slide, and increase the revs.

The left screw is hard to reach but it can be relocated because the carb body is cast to accept a tapped hole on the right side. The article does not mention whether the M5 screw is coarse or fine... but they do mention a 4.2 mm tap drill and that is for COARSE threads: 0.80 pitch.

Chuck left the original idle screw in place and added another on the right side. Details here.

Note on taps. Most taps sold today are trash: Harbor Fright, Amazon Chinese, etc. Suspect even formerly reputable brands unless they are made in USA, UK, Germany, or Japan. These trash taps will break off or produce threads that simply do not work. You certainly don’t want any problems in a carb casting.

McMaster is a good source for taps and tap drills, among hundreds of thousands of other industrial items. McMaster stuff is seldom branded or identified by origin in the catalog, but it is all very high quality.

UPDATE. I have found I can turn the screw easily by reaching my right middle finger and my left pointer finger around the carb from opposite sides. So at this point I am not going to add another idle screw.

SUMMARY: This is a big project but the payoff is significant even for an uncorked bike. Attention to detail for leak-free couplings and cable routing is essential.

2020 UPDATE: The adapters and cables provided by MAT below can be convenient, as making these is a major part of the install:

For “maximum performance from the 230 (+)cc engine. I would recommend the 30mm, as it has the same bottom end as the 28mm, but has a vertically stretched bore for more top end.

We can supply a Domino throttle and Venhill cable as well.

We sleeve the intake so it fits into the Honda's manifold and we also supply a sleeve for the airbox hose.

We can jet it according to how others have jetted for us in the past and provide extra jets in case we are a little off.

Unfortunately, these carburetors only come as "left hand" units, with the air screw, idle screw and choke on the left and the fuel intake on the right.

The only thing that can be moved to the right side is the idle screw. OKO does not make a "right hand" carburetor.” - Mid-Atlantic Trials from post

2022 UPDATE: “We have now had the opportunity to fit an OKO carburetor on a Honda CRF 230 here, after having worked with several customers with these bikes. We have found the best performance to be with the 26mm. Since the throttle cable for the stock carburetor is a dual cable, we now offer a basic and a deluxe kit for the CRF 230. The basic kit includes the 26mm with the curved top and a sleeve for the airbox hose. The Deluxe kit includes a universal Venhill throttle cable and a Domino throttle. Both kits come with extra jets that can be exchanged if needed. http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Honda.html

[*] 2023 UPDATE: The Mid-Atlantic Trials manifold sleeve

$15
ID: 33 mm
OD: 40 mm
OD at lip: 41 mm

“For the 230 you can just go to a muffler shop. Easy for them intake and airbox adapters. - BTR post

Adapters by Chuck - post

Above: JXG: 7, 6 August 2023; 2022; 2020; 10 November 2018; 24 October 2018; 31, 26, 23, 17, 16, 11, 10, 9, 8, 3 December 2017

Thread on TT

Link: http://bit.ly/2jH07jP

OKO Carb Operations

OKO remove / reinstall procedure in detail

5/28/23 Updates

For jetting changes, I have written down the following to be as fast and accurate as possible. The OKO is a PWK clone so most of this will probably apply to a PWK. Note my carb is sealed to the manifold so I remove the manifold.

Spares, see pic below

The GASKET, CARBURETOR INSULATOR #16214-KPS-902 will get damaged over time: good to have a spare or two
O-ring
Manifold bolts if the heads have gotten stripped on your bike

Can be done without removing tank

Main jet can be accessed through bottom plug, but PJ requires fuel bowl removal

If you remove the fuel bowl without removing the carb, the float pin tends to fall out and roll away. It is usually simplest to just remove the carb completely.

A headlamp is very helpful

Remove

Run a narrow towel or a trash bag under the fuel tank. Sort of like a diaper. This will help prevent dirt from dropping down on the carb area.
Inspect the dirt level in the fuel filter: highly recommended!

Consider back-flushing the filter

Disconnect fuel line and secure it out of the way
Tape or plug the fuel inlet: even on a washed bike dust will float around and I have seen particles end up in the fuel inlet. Dirt is not good for the needle valve.
Memorize or photograph the position of the left manifold bolt and gasket to help with realignment during install
Put a rag over the starter area so when you drop the box wrench and then the screw, it won’t take several minutes to retrieve them
8 mm box on left manifold screw: just barely clears shock reservoir, if you have one
Parts at the manifold connection:

O-ring: may fall out
Gasket: may stay in place, which is good for alignment
Insulator: usually stays in place

Turn carb towards you then remove slide screws
Wrap the slide in a clean cloth, being extremely careful not to bend the needle
Disconnect the drain/vent line
Remove carb and take it to some kind of flat workspace
Inspect for dirt inside the nozzle, carb, and bell which would indicate air filter problems or leaks at the adapter connections
Clean around the bowl seam with spray lube
Check the bottom bowl for dirt and clean it out: 17 mm box
Remove screws using JIS screwdriver preferably
Gently remove the bowl

The angled vent pipe is tricky
Try to keep the float pin from falling out and rolling away

Lower the float and spray a bunch of solvent into the fuel inlet to flush any particles out. You really don’t want needle valve problems. This will probably help. Put the tape or plug back on the inlet.
Change jets

Double-check that the correct jets are in and out of carb

Carefully reinstall the bowl

The angled vent pipe is tricky again: it slips between the bike-left float and the “tower” with the jets. It helps to look from the side. Fiddle around and eventually the bowl will slip on.

Tighten the screws back and forth so the bowl goes on evenly
Set mixture screw to starting position or any other adjustments like this

Reinstall

Carefully install the slide, making sure the cable is in bent tube

I lube the slide with Dupont silicone spray
Look into carb and make sure slide operates smoothly

Put anti-seize on manifold screws so they can be installed with fingers
Put grease around manifold o-ring; this is the last chance you will have
Put grease around the air cleaner nozzle
Shove carb back all the way into air cleaner boot, twisting to make sure it is all the way in
Put more grease around air cleaner seal
Now move forward and make sure the O-ring has not rolled away and the gasket is in place
Get right manifold screw in part way
Align the manifold gasket if it is loose

Note this gasket is slightly asymmetrical. If you install it the wrong way, it will slightly block the bore.

Left manifold screw is hard, especially if you have a shock reservoir

Reach around front of engine and twist carb side to side slightly
The screw will align and drop into the hole
The screw should go in all the way with fingers if it is aligned properly

If you need to use a wrench any time before the screw is snug against the flange, the threads are cross-threaded
On older heads that have been damaged, the above may need to be finessed

Once the screw is all the way in, you can finish with the 8 mm box wrench

Socket and long flexible extension has never worked for me

Check that both sides of manifold are tight
Tighten screw around air cleaner boot
Reconnect fuel line; note it runs UNDER the throttle cable
Twist throttle and make sure slide is snapping all the way closed
Use needle-nose pliers to reconnect the drain / vent line
Check all fasteners for tightness
Turn on the gas valve and confirm flow in the filter
Hope that gas is not coming out of the vent line
Again confirm the slide is down and then start the engine to confirm all is well
Testing for air leaks with carb cleaner or SeaFoam spray is an option, but this will tend to wash the grease away... which is there to prevent air leaks. It is probably reasonable to do this test once after a new carb install to check the adapters.

Adjusting the air screw

The process with an air screw is similar but a bit different from the stock carb which has a fuel screw. With the stocker, you adjust the amount of fuel. With the PWK or OKO, you adjust the amount of air. It’s just opposite ways to adjust the fuel/air mixture for low speed operation.

Process as described by the JunkMan: I extracted this flow chart from his video. * = I changed this for the CRF230F. https://www.thejunkmanadv.com/how-to-idle-mixture-screw-adjustment.html

Goal: Find the highest idle WITHOUT hesitation on throttle blip
Adjust air screw back and forth for highest idle
Now blip throttle video point

If it hesitates… idle circuit is LEAN until main jet kicks in

Turn screw in half turn to reduce amount of air

Repeat until goal achieved
Do you need a different pilot jet?

If screwed in to less than one turn out*

Pilot jet is too small, need a larger size

If screwed out more than 2.5 turns*

Pilot jet is too large, need a smaller size

Download this Excel spreadsheet for your own use. It is formatted for air screw, but fuel screw is the exact opposite. In other words, when the fuel screw is completely closed that is the leanest not richest mixture.

Process as described by Mid-Atlantic Trials

Reformatted into flow chart form from long paragraphs at http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Instal.html

“Once running, take the bike off of choke as it begins to falter and screw in the idle screw enough to keep the engine idling. Let the bike warm up for a couple of minutes.

“Once warm, turn the air screw in a quarter turn and see if the engine picks up rpms.

If it does, the idle circuit is lean and you are on the way to correcting it.
If it drops rpms, it is becoming too rich and you need to turn it back out.

“Continue turning the air screw in 1/8 turns in the direction the rpms increase, until the rpms level out. Use the idle screw during this time to keep the idle low but not in danger of stalling.

“After each 1/8 turn, give the motor several seconds to adjust to the new setting.

“Once you have found the area where the engine neither increases nor decreases in rpms you are close to having the idle [air screw?] adjusted.

“Stop the engine and check to see how many turns out the air screw is.

If the air screw is less than one turn out, you will need to switch the slow or pilot jet to a larger size
If the air screw is turned out more than two full turns, you will need to replace the slow jet with a smaller size

“When you have reached optimum idle speed with the air screw turned out between one and two turns, you have the idle right or very close.

“Blip the throttle slightly.

If the engine [Symptom A], turn the air screw out slightly.
If the engine "searches" or returns to idle slowly, turn the air screw in slightly. You are looking for that spot where the engine takes a little throttle cleanly and returns quickly to idle.”

[Symptom A] depends on the type of engine:

Two stroke engine: It "4-strokes" meaning... “Four-stoking is when the engine fires every other firing cycle due to richness. This is a tell-tale symptom of two-strokes running rich, therefore firing like a
four stroke engine.” (per email from Mid-Atlantic, 11 December 2017.)
Four stroke engine: “At idle a rich tune will have low rpms and stumble when given throttle

Turn the airscrew out.

If rpms increase it was too rich

At mid-range and full throttle, it will stumble and not have quick response. It may also fire every other time or 8-stroke. Exhaust will also be loud.” (per email from Mid-Atlantic, 12 December 2017.)

The process continues here for higher speed carb circuits: http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/Instal.html

It is very helpful to use a digital tach. There is a replaceable battery model with 10 RPM resolution here: Amazon. Note this uses the somewhat unusual CR2450 battery; keep a spare around.

Jetting the OKO for high and low elevations

OKO carb specs as received

Previous owner: Worked well for an engine with upgrade piston, cam, porting, and exhaust run at low altitude
Slide: 3.0 (stock)
Needle: JJL
Needle jet looks to be short

The recipe above says use short

Main jet: 135

Main jet was incorrectly stated to be: 120

Pilot: 40
Air screw: 1-1/8 out

Short needle jet in place and long needle jet on right:

My setup before carb swap

2008 model, uncorked with Power Bomb, otherwise stock
Altitude for me: 6000 feet at home, 6500 to 13000+ warm season riding
Main 112
Pilot 45

Other parts included with the PWK carb

Slide 2.0 is “max rich” ref

Did not work as well as 3.0 on builder’s modified bike

135 main
140 main
35 pilot is fairly lean ref. “BTR says the PWK on stock motor is perfect with 35. Only the stroked, bored, cammed motor needs the leaner 32 pilot because it pulls more vacuum.” ref
Needle jet: looks like the long one, see photo above
JFN needle
JJL needle
Clear bowl: Mid-Atlantic notes that four screws are needed

Jetting trail tests

1.0 on 12/3/17 carb as received: I went out and rode my standard test singletracks around 6500 ft. Temperature was around 60F.

Main 135
Pilot 40
Off idle: no change, always a stump puller
Midrange: Seems to have a bit more response, maybe 20% which is not trivial
3/4: Starts missing a bit
WOT: Maintains high revs but definitely missing and sputtering
Always burbles quite a bit on decel ref
When cold/cool, starts easily with a little enrichment
Starts easily when warm

2.0 on 12/9/17

Slide: 3.0 (unchanged)
Needle: JJL (unchanged)
Needle jet looks to be short (unchanged)
Main jet: 115
Pilot: 40 (unchanged)
Air screw: 1-1/8 out to start
Air screw adjusted: 1 turn out

“Usually if the air screw is between 1 to 2-1/2 turns for best idle the pilot is OK.” ref

Air screw round 2.1: 2.5 turns out so needs smaller pilot jet
Carb seemed flakey. I upgraded the gasket to 3.0 after this test.

3.0 on 12/12/17

Slide: 3.0 (unchanged)
Needle: JJL (unchanged)
Needle jet looks to be short (unchanged)
Main jet: 115
Pilot: 35
Air screw: 2 out to start
“Once warm, turn the air screw in a quarter turn and see if the engine picks up rpms.”

It did, so lean
Kept turning in until revs dropped
Blip test: Good
1/2 out to 1 out, so pilot is marginal lean

12/14/17: 4.0

Slide: 3.0 (unchanged)
Needle: JJL (unchanged)
Needle jet looks to be short (unchanged)
Main jet: 115
Pilot: 40
Air screw: 2 out to start
Went to 1.25 out by experimenting (see spreadsheet above)

12/16/17 Trail test at 6000 to 7000 feet

Very strong midrange surge not present with stock carb!
Wheelies off slightest bump
Jumps easier and higher
Rear wheel breaks loose much more under hard throttle
Can stay in higher gear before downshifting
Hard acceleration even in gears 3-5
Wow! Significant improvement

1/28/18: 5.0: preparing to go to lower altitude

Main jet: 135
Pilot: 45
Air screw: 1.25 out (?)

Feb-April: Sea level to 4000 feet: works great

5/2/18: Starts to stutter near full throttle, probably too rich at 5000 ft

5/3/18: Decided to see what sea level jetting could go up to... 10500 feet still accelerating in 3rd. Approaching full throttle it hesitates and stumbles.

5/20/18: 6.0

Main jet: 115
Pilot: 45
Air screw: ???
At 5000+ feet, bike always started without enrichment knob, so pilot too rich

9/22/18: Back to 4.0 for riding at 5000+ feet

11/10/18: Back to 5.0 for riding at low altitude

Tuning the PWK for the CRF230F

Keep in mind, some CRF230F’s have been heavily modified and they are not all operated at low elevations. Always make sure you know what level of mod is being talked about and the elevation. Tuning notes by Chuck ref and more advanced ref.

BTR stock engine at sea level and up to 2000 feet:

135 / 35: “Did few more hours testing on stock motored PWK. Two stock similar 230s on ride without PWK carb. Happy to say the Pwk seems to blow by the other two bikes everywhere. We are 20 min from riding on the beach. My PWK bike slight popping backing off throttle so jetting seems perfect. Will turn in air screw 1/4 turn to correct this.” ref

“So this testing is proving PWK with current jetting is perfect. Stock motor. Stock muffler baffle out. UNI filter. All screens removed from air box. No way would I change 35P jet and Number 2 slide.” ref

Pilot jet too rich

CH: I was thinking, my pilot jet is too rich because where my motor is best with this carb is wide open, in the higher RPM's.
BR: We're working on getting and/or making #32 pilot jets [for modified engines]. ref

Pilot is OK

“Usually if the air screw is between 1 to 2-1/2 turns for best idle the pilot is OK.” ref

Note: Main can be accessed through bottom plug, pilot requires fuel bowl removal.

JXG uncorked stock engine OKO jetting table

Jets are genuine Keihin

Elevation (feet)	Main Jet	Pilot Jet
10000 and up	110: will try	35: will try
5000 to 10000	115: good	40: good
3000 to 6000	125: might try	45: might try
1000 to 3000 estimated	135: worked for PO*	40: worked for PO*
0 to 6000 ft, even 10K	135: good	45: good

* Modified: 67mm piston, head porting, ST2.0 cam, EO exhaust

Above: JXG on 24 October 2018; 16, 11, 3 December 2017

Builds

CRF230F Builds

This section describes complete (or partly complete) builds to help understand how all the components work together.

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2j5wtrk

Frickin’ Jim Build

This extensive build is documented in a series of videos, indexed below.

Episode 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13DRMLPKBiQ

Shinko trials tires
XR250R front end has cartridge forks
Polisport Halo H4 with OPT7 LED
Rox 2-inch risers

For 7/8 bars: 1R-P2SSN Amazon Rox
For 9/8 bars: 1R-P2PP Amazon

ProTaper SE 7/8-inch bars
Tusk Control Cluster
Tusk handguards
ProCom CDI
Web 40-402 cam
Wiseco standard piston with more dome
Clutch with Barnett springs
Carb 30 mm from XR250R
Trail Tech 80 watt stator
Tusk lithium battery
FMF PowerBomb header (Crfs)
Exhaust baffle out
Air box baffle out
Linkage uses a CRF150F part for 1.5 inch lift
Hagon shock
JT 14/50

Episode 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBzx5Z5O7jE

Description of Terrain Tamer as “separate function forks”
Gold Valves installed to replace shim stack

Episode 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dw3Dzbv17rM

Shinko 241 rear
Tubliss install, discusses correct install of rim lock
Motoz tractionator desert HT front RMAM
14/44 sprocket for dual sport, 13/44 dirt only
Forks test ride

Episode 4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH_GXQwJ4Og

Scotts steering stabilizer (part 1, misinstalled)
Engine removal and disassembly sequence is good to watch
Terry Miller upgrades to top end

Episode 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZaJa2gH6lk

Servicing the centrifugal oil filter
Replaced the oil pump
Modified the clutch pack

Tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJDINQO

OEM springs with preload washers

Episode 6: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NPg2EQfDmE

Cam chain replacement sequence
Throttle cable replacement
Scotts steering stabilizer (part 2, correctly installed)
Oil pump completed
Clarke fuel tank is becoming rare

Episode 7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VE1vZ68l_IE

Clarke fuel tank arrives and install
Bored cylinder
Piston 67 mm Wiseco, 10:1 compression ratio, 10 cc displacement increase

Episode 8: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbNBE8dWS5Y

Super Torquer 2.0 camshaft

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1198235-super-torque-20-cam-more-results/
Stock: durable, power does not build
89A: builds and builds to rev limiter, but not stall resistant
40-402: Low rev torque cam
ST2.0 combines 89A and 40-402

Head gasket: 10.5 to 11:1

Stock is actually 8.7:1, not 9:1 claimed

Ported head
EO Outlaw exhaust is unique
Jim uses the MotoTune breakin method

Episode 9: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWMZITvYusw&t=6s

125 main jet at 3000 ft
Whoops instability due to imbalance of front and rear
Gearing comment: “12/44 for the tightest, gnarliest stuff, 13/44 for general trail/desert riding, and 14/44 for more open rides and dual sport rides. I made the switch to a 44 rear sprocket because it allows me to use 12-14 front sprockets for a huge variety of riding types.”

Note: For background information on Episodes 7-9, see Engine mods section.

Episode 10: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TV0XQ28kvY

Stock shock: “Horrifying”, multiple injuries
Hlebo revalve was a “huge upgrade”
Hagon “way, way better” than modified OEM
Fox Podium: three damping adjustments
“Biggest improvement is in bottoming resistance”
“Even more plush through rough terrain”

Episode 11: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1FwHAfhbIM

Broken in: The damping just keeps getting looser and looser”
Rebound: Four clicks softer from center
Low speed compression: Two clicks softer from center
High speed compression: Left at center is “aggressive but can ride harder”
The Fox shock is “very happy being ridden with madman intensity”

Procom CDI and over-revving results in blown engine YouTube. See comments here.

Mixxer BunnZilla Build

Post post

Engine

Note: For details of some components he mentions see Engine Mods above.
Uni air filter
Stock boot
PD pumper cut to match max throttle opening / choke assembly eliminated.... Replacing the stock carb cut to max opening / choke assembly intact...

“I modified the pump linkage on the PD Pumper to allow more pump shot and then bought a spring kit so I could choose and mod a spring for better/ stronger following of pump shot slaved to throttle movement...

Head is thoroughly ported and new stock size valves with blended 5 angle valve seats. Details in this post.
Athena BBK
Terry Miller's ST 1.5 camshaft... Torque and midrange profile ...
Stock bore wiseco 11:1 piston with single layer head gasket...

Single layer used of the 3 layer Athena head gasket

Pro Circuit exhaust...
ProCom CDI Box...

Results after carb addition: “What I have right now is more grunt like a moderate big bore kit might add... And a much better run out on top... Like a bigger cam would add... Could not be more satisfied with it...” post

“Very strong runner ... No resemblance to stock power... Even with the torque biased camshaft, this setup makes very good use of the additional CFM of the larger cut carb with the choke plate removed.... Top end run-out is noticeably stronger and longer.... And that's with stock displacement...

So I'm going to bet that even a lesser mod bike would get a top end boost... [from the carb] But for certain, setups with bigger bore and stroke will really benefit from a bigger than stock carb...” post

BunnZilla Suspension 2018

‘96 style xr250r front forks powder coated and re valved...
Earlier model XR250R remote nitrogen reservoir shock with adjustable compression and rebound damping... Re-valved and rebuilt by Litz Suspension / Racing of Tennessee... Steve Litz is a great guy to deal with .. fast turnaround and great work.. he's been doing this stuff a long time and doing it well...
Put a Galfer ss braided xr250 brake line on up front as well... only have one disc... Why not max it out in power/ one finger feel...
“I really can't adequately describe how positively these suspension have affected the feel and control of this bike.”

“My fast 19 year old son Samuel paid an excellent compliment after running a woods track with BunnZilla and it's new suspension and more power:

"Pops, this is crazy fun, plus I'm sure I'm faster in the woods on this than I am in my 450!! Easier to ride faster!!"

(Photo courtesy of Mixxer)

Above: 27 March 2018, 27 November and 18 August 2017 by JXG with thanks to Mixxer

[*] CRF230F JXG Build

12/5/24, 2/13/23 version

This is a 2008, a backcountry bike with no internal engine mods

Rider weight 178 lbs, with armor and pack 225 lbs
XR400R forks with 0.50 Cannon springs
Front end

Run-D 20W LED flood lights on bars
Winter: Baja Designs headlight cowling with RENO H4 LED Headlight Bulb, 9003/HB2 12000LM 6000K Xenon Fanless
Summer: Chainsaw rack (version 3.0)

TE carbon fiber bars and TE handguards
Rox Pivoting Anti-Vibe Bar Risers in 2022
MSR clutch lever: see Clutch lever upgrade
Seat Concepts upgrade
Mirror: Powerstands Racing 00-00214-22 Amazon on left side

2023: BRCOVAN mount and Tackform 4" Aluminum Arm

Phone Holder: RAM Quick-grip XL

2024: added Vibe-Safe Adapter for phones that have Optical Image Stabilization (OIS)

Horn for blind spots: see Lights and horns on trail bikes

2022: added piezo siren for drifting Razrs blasting gangsta rap

Sicass Start / Kill button: see Upgrading the starter / stop button
Trail Tech speedo
Trail Tech stator for higher electrical load, auto-shutoff Rec/Reg
Antigravity Re-Start Lithium Battery: see Lithium battery upgrade

No problems since 2019: 5 yrs

Power Bomb header
ProCom CDI box with OEM wired onto frame as spare
Moose air filter mostly, also Twin Air
OKO (PWK clone) carb: see OKO 28mm Carb Upgrade
Outlaw Fuel Filter
12T sprocket, stock steel rear 50T: for tight trails I use very low gearing
DID X-ring chain
Fox Podium RC2 shock with 598 lb/in spring

I also have an XR250R shock modified to BTR specs but have not tried it

Front tire:

2021: Kenda Washougal II DC 80 / 100 with 4 mm tube: good
2023: M95 is very good Rockies tire and popular in WV too per my friend who rides both areas
2023: returned to Tubliss with homemade tire sealant (HTS)

Rear tire:

2022: Michelin StarCross 5 Medium was OK
2023: Tusk Recon Hybrid Tire 110/100x18 (Durometer 60)
This is a great tire for desert / mountain riding
Big. It fits the 230F, barely.
Tubliss with homemade tire sealant (HTS)

Foot peg repositioning plates 2018
Fasst Impact Elastomer Footpegs 2021
Tusk LED fender
Wolfman saddlebags
Nomadic Rack

2023: Added this for an option to reduce weight on my back and as a grab handle for lifting and turning the bike

AZ motorcycle license plate

Full tank of gas: 126 + 135 = 261 lbs on digital bath scale

^^^ 2018 Winter config with CRF150RB forks, see drone video here: https://youtu.be/RMzPRtnAisw

^^^ 2018 Summer config with CRF150RB forks, chainsaw on front, and hailstorm survival gear on back

Link: http://bit.ly/2RLvEkW

CRF230F BTR Stroker Build

67 mm piston
Thin head gasket
Estimated compression: 10.5
ST2.5 cam with hardened rockers
6 mm stroked crankshaft
Ported head with oversized stainless intake valve
ProCom box
Genuine PWK carb
14 or 15 x 45 gearing, steel sprockets for long life
Yoshimura header and muffler
Fox Podium RC2 shock, 500# spring

JXG note: BTR developed this shock for the CRF230F with Fox

In September 2018 switched to XR400 forks
CR85 forks with Gold Valves

One 0.40 spring with spacer 3/8-inch
Other side 0.42 no pre-load spacer
Very detailed BTR post on valving with pix: post
Mid valve mod: post, drilling post
Summary of BTR mods post
“New test CR85 fork”, April 25, 2017 post
Cartridge holder tool post and post

Scotts steering damper
Swingarm: 1 inch longer, plan to extend to 1.5 inches

For high speed stability and hill climbing

Rear disk brake from late XR250R
MT43 rear 4.00 x 18
Kenda Washougal II DC 80 / 100 x 21 link
Early model of Wolfman saddlebags made of PVC
Single LED riding light
Compact mirror
SD plate

Post reviews these mods

Below: In high-speed desert riding, gravel bounces off the front of the engine and pits the fork stanchions. BTR wraps shields around the stanchions, made from Rubbermaid trash can plastic or thin (Schedule 140) PVC pipe. You can see a line of pop rivets that have been smashed flat.

Modified swingarm:

Quick release pins for seat:

Quick-release axles:

Axle wrench and spare shift lever:

Above: 22 February 2018 by BTR as told to JXG. Updated 16 August, 20 May 2018.

Mike H. 272 Build

Thread on this build

Forks: CR85 with rebound hole plug mod (July 2018)

Shock: Fox Podium

Rebound hole plug mod (July 2018)

Results: “Mike’s new rebound mod Cr85 is a 100% fix for the too fast rebound. We agreed on 2 1/2 turns in -- so we have 1 1/2 turns more if want stiffer rebound. It now out-handles my CR85 forks. We both feel his are perfect.” BTR post

Further reflections: “Wonder why my Susp guy and nobody else figured this out. It makes sense to me: stock springs are so weak now we have strong springs. So rebound is not able to keep up. One more Plus... remember I reported that when you turn in rebound adjuster it also makes compression damping stiffer. So without his mod my rebound is maxed. Still too fast on rebound but at same time making comp harder witch is what I don't want. His mod as far as we can tell has not made comp stiffer.” BTR post

PWK remote choke with tensioner from a Triumph:

Headlight:

Above: 4 August, 23 February 2018 by JXG with thanks to Mike H. and BTR

Cop Build by BTR

Forks: XR400R, see XR400R fork swap for details

Shock: XR250R

Cop build with XR400R forks and Mike build with CR85 forks

Above: 16 August 2018 by JXG with thanks to BTR

Rocky Mountain bling build

Emphasis on bling: YouTube. This shows how few functional mods are available through normal retail channels.

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2j5wtrk

[*] CRF250F Builds

Ross 2020 CRF250F Build https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1356167-crf250f-build/

Survive the OHV apocalypse: Lights and horns on trail bikes

Electrical modifications

Street conversion 2016

LED headlight upgrade with stock stator

Auxiliary riding lights

Upgrade your own stator?

Trail Tech Stator and Rec/Reg Upgrade

Adding a neutral indicator LED

Upgrading the start/stop switch

Custom control panel with voltage meter

Wiring harness 2017-2018: SAE plugs to terminal strips

Wiring harness 2018: Wago wire nuts

Be sure to use the corrected wiring diagram by Ramz

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fmods.htm#wiringdiagram

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2HDJX8m

Lights and horns on trail bikes

In many areas there is significant and growing traffic on OHV routes. Even the most dedicated singletracker probably rides some OHV widetrack.

Between the quads, 1000 cc Razrs with subwoofers, sand rails, 4X4s, and rock buggies racing around blind spots there is very significant - and growing - collision risk.

This is in addition the non-trivial risk of moto collisions: it does happen on singletrack.

This post on AdvRider gives examples of risky OHV behaviors with amusing (?) stories and talks about training yourself to be vigilant, especially at blind spots.

Don’t forget: Wear colors like fluorescent yellow which are highly visible under almost all conditions. Also brightly colored bikes are more visible of course. Post.

On the hardware front, here is my upgrade path... follow the links for lots of installation details:

First installed an LED headlamp
Later installed Auxiliary riding lights so I could carry a chainsaw on the front
Did a Trail Tech Stator and Rec/Reg Upgrade so I can operate the riding lights ALL THE TIME. I do turn them off as a courtesy to oncoming drivers / riders, when I can safely do so.

^^^ Run-D LED riding lights. They are very bright.

^^^ I also installed a Tusk horn with a button right by my left thumb. I am on the horn anytime I can’t see ahead a reasonable distance. Short beeps are more detectable by the human auditory system.

Obviously if a Razr driver is blasting music with a 500 watt subwoofer then they are not going to hear my horn. But for others the horn could be a small difference that makes a big difference. Especially on singletrack where I have seen a rider coming through bushes just 10 feet away.

BTW, I know a lot of people like riding MX bikes on OHV, especially near-urban networks. Since MX bikes increasingly have batteries for eStart, definitely consider lights and a horn -- especially if riding near-urban OHV because these areas have heavy traffic. Uncool? Being a paraplegic or dead is uncool too.

Above: 12 March 2019; 30 April 2017 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2EXifAN

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7z13wvakomiddi/CRF230F_StreetConversion.pdf?dl=0

Street conversion 2016

Note: Before you start buying parts, make sure you have a legal route forward: see Plating the CRF230F.

Street conversion slide show has additional info

Here is another way to set up the rear brake switch: post

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/brake-light-bulb/motorcycle-led-headlight-conversion-kit-h4-led-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit-with-flexible-tinned-copper-braid/2781/6195/

LED headlight upgrade with stock stator

Many dual-sports use a headlight shroud like the Baja Designs. Back in the day, the limited clearance between headlight and the steering head was not a problem because the traditional H4 halogen is shallow. But all these great new LEDs need more room. Here is how to get some space so you can upgrade.

The array of potential LED and HID upgrades is large and growing. Huge light at lower power draw. Frickin’ Jim has tested and reviewed many of the options: https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/adding-a-headlight/

One problem with new LEDs is they require a heat sink. Some of these are quite large and can interfere with the steering head and/or the cable bundle.

On the CRF230F, there is interference with the CDI unit, the steering head, and the bundle of throttle cable and electrical cables. Be sure to turn the handlebars from full stop to full stop as you scope out the available space.

The first option I looked at was from SuperBrightLEDs and uses copper braid as a heat sink.

The braid is flexible and can be arranged in the available space. But it still sticks out about 2 inches and interfered with the cable bundle. It’s a great concept but does not work well where there is movement.

Then there is power. The upgrades can pull many watts. I am not ready to upgrade my stator, so I looked for a lower power LED. Frickin’ Jim has figured out the power budget:

“The OEM stator is just fine for using the bike as a trail bike without lights, but... the brightest thing I could get it to power without battery drain at normal operating RPM was a 30w LED bulb. A 35-watt HID was right on the edge. page

This LED is only 30 watts max (2.5 amps) so it will work with the stock CRF230F stator:

VANSSI 9003 H4/H7 LED Motorcycle Headlight Kit CREE LED Light Bulb 30W 6500K White $30 on Amazon

Depth from H4 mount: 35 mm or 1.4 inches
Low beam: 20W (1.6 amps), 2200LM
High beam: 30W (2.5 amps), 3000LM

UPDATE 23 March 2017: This unit is already unavailable and there is no obvious substitute with a compact heat sink, no fan, and low wattage.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rv-led-daytime-running-light-bulbs/h4-led-bulb-12-smd-led-daytime-running-light-rvb/2563/2940/

If you just want a Daytime Running Light (DRL), this unit draws only 5 watts and has no heat sink at all:

Here is how the dimensions compare:

The mods

First I relocated the CDI unit to a spot near the coil. There is plenty of cable length.

This is a hotter location but there is really no other option. Ramz relocated his CDI years ago: http://rickramsey.net/CRF230Fmods.htm

The VANSSI has a relatively shallow heat sink, but it still will not fit the BD on the CRF. So I made a pair of extender plates to move the whole BD headlight assembly forward 1 inch. I used Visio to make a template for cutting and drilling the 1 mm aluminum sheet.

Note: The Polisport Halo H4 Headlight comes with extender plates, per Frickin’ Jim. I already owned a BD so had to make my own.

The VANSSI comes with H4 and H7 adapters. The adapter is held on with a bayonet lock. The mirror should point downward: this is how H4 headlights work. The VANSSI has the three standard H4 tabs, but they don’t do anything because the BD does not have notches for them.

H4 adapter installed inside the boot. The adapter can be twisted off then reinstalled ⇒

Unfortunately, the H4 adapter does not have a little bump that sticks up and locks it to the BD housing so it won’t rotate. However, the retaining bail seems strong enough to keep the LED from rotating.

I had to cut the boot to fit around the LED while still providing a dust seal.

Because I sometimes ride and transport in heavy dust, I ended up running a bead of silicone around the joint between the boot and LED.

Dust is also why I prefer to avoid fans on heat sinks.

Getting the boot and the bail on can be a bit of a workout. I ended up installing the bail in reverse. First the two ends, then snapping the middle connection in last.

In a low battery situation, I always want to be able to turn off the lights. So I added a booted switch visible at the left:

This upgrade has given me a reasonable headlight system without upgrading the stator.

If you want to get into accurate high/low aiming, there has been a lot of work by "Spiderman302" and others on H4 shields, spacers, etc. Here are a couple of example posts:

See Auxiliary riding lights for an alternative or addition to headlights

Link: http://bit.ly/2HURvUP

Above: JXG, 7 December 2016. 16 December 2018: updated the power budget.

Auxiliary riding lights

Headlights and trail riding. Any headlight is useful for street legality and conspicuity off-highway: think ATVs going way too fast.

But for night trail riding, a single headlight is not ideal because there is no parallax. The light goes straight out and comes back the same way. Not great for depth perception. Also a lot of the light goes onto the fender and bounces back, reducing night vision.

Of course a headlight is not an option when carrying a chainsaw on the front, so outboard riding lights are the only way to maintain conspicuity.

^^^ I use the Run-D 20 watt units for riding lights: 60 degree beam, 1600 effective lumens. These are tough and inexpensive units. The wide separation produces great parallax.

Power

1.28 amps x 12.76 volts = 16 watts each. So two are 32 watts, which is under the CRF’s limited power budget of 40 watts. But not really; see Trail Tech Stator and Rec/Reg Upgrade.

Weight

Run-D LEDs = 12 oz each = 24 oz = 1.5 lbs

Baja Designs headlight with extender plates and dashboard = 2 lbs

I mount the Run-D’s with (what else) hose clamps run through the brush guards. They are far enough inward to survive falls:

^^^ Run-D’s with Chainsaw Rack 2.0

Below... A chunk of 1/2-inch aluminum channel moves the Run-D mount forward enough so the lights will hang vertical.

NOTE: Flip the Run-D brackets over for a better angle. For aiming side-to-side, the channel can be filed down into more of a wedge shape:

^^ At the top you can see the switch for the lights, moved to a bracket when the chainsaw rack is in place. It is a heavy-duty splashproof model with a rubber boot. In a low battery situation, I always want to be able to turn off the lights.

Threads: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1291877-7-led-bar-light/?do=findComment&comment=14826125

Below... Back side of hose clamp mount:

These are extremely rugged mounts. The ones on my AJP went for a couple thousand miles of rough trail and many falls without moving.

Above: JXG on 24 April 2017.

Top of this Section | Top of Notebook Choosing an LED array

LED’s put out a lot of light. But can you actually SEE with this light?

“Yes, the LED light I have used gave the impression of being very bright 'like daylight' but it is not 'like daylight' visually. I too, found depth perception severely lacking and the ability to spot the brown furry creatures even more scarily lacking!

I tried 7" HID lights in 4300K and they are much better, but when a couple of those went missing, thanks to someone with light fingers who obviously needed them more than me, I had to temporarily, revert to some of my old 100W halogen 7" rally lights (3500K full spectrum light). The difference was mind blowing! Suddenly I wa seeing all the unpredictable wildlife again quite clearly! Yes, they draw a lot more current, but I ain't going back to LED's, EVER!” - Oldie230 post

Amazon is a gold mine of LEDs but quality varies greatly. The key to finding a good product is to use the reviews.

Focus on big sellers / best sellers. This taps “the wisdom of crowds” and the “invisible hand” of the marketplace in finding good stuff.

What color? Color can be a problem: post. I try for 3000K (Kelvin), put up with 6000K, and avoid 10000K (blue).

Red flags...

Watch for a lot of reviews which disclose they received the product free. Even if honest, these reviews tend to be written just after install since that is the agreement. You want reviews with updates on how the product performs after use and stress.

Light output tends to be vastly inflated. Sometimes you can find reviews where the author has actually measured output.

Wiring tends to be light gauge. If there a credible reports (preferably with measurements) of very thin wiring, this is a sign of poor quality.

^^^ 12AWG as interpreted by a US manufacturer and a Chinese manufacturer. But... when I mic’d the Chinese strands and counted them and did the calculation... it is 12AWG. Go figure.

Most of the Chinese arrays claim to be IP67 waterproof. But leaks are very common. Some of the "big brands" like Mictuning have terrible leak problems.

^^^ Whenever I am looking at LEDs I search the Amazon reviews for leak reports using "leak" and “water” keywords. This is very effective if there are hundreds of reviews.

Before installing your new array, submerge it for maybe 30 seconds at 6 inch depth to make sure you don’t have a defective unit. (This is WAY under the standard but sufficient for rain, snow, and water crossings on a dirt bike, it seems to me.)

Then put it in direct sunlight and/or a warm area. If fog appears, immediately return it during the Amazon return period. Write a review and find another product. Or, if this product generally does not leak then maybe you have a rare defect so get a replacement.

Some form factors have weak mounts under heavy vibration and impact. An example is long thin form factors with bolts on the ends. Even with a custom bracket, the threads on the ends get a lot of stress and can strip out. The Run-D form factor and mount is extremely robust and has survived many dozens of falls for me.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/finding-a-good-led-array-on-amazon-some-tips.1374704/

Above: 2 April 2019 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2U8YujY

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-AWG-Copper-Magnet-Wire/dp/B00EFD0O4K

Upgrade your own stator?

Firsthere: “It's pretty simple really. I used 18g coated wire from TEMCo, 16 might be better for overall voltage but 18 is easier to work with and higher voltage at idle.

Basically copy the windings on stock posts and wind as many wraps as will fit without contacting the flywheel. Try not to nick the wire and remove coating. Also wind in opposite Alternating directions as the existing post next to the new wind. Leave a 6" tail to begin with and solder a connection to the new insulated feed wires coming out and up to the a new reg. or rectifier.

I used a $14 AC reg by from Rocky Mountain. I also epoxy coated with JB weld but you could try leaving them bare.

This should result in approx 30-40v AC since there are only 3 posts.

All grounds must return back to the same 6" tail wire out of the stator. No frame grounds or cross connections to the stock DC circuit unless you are combining both.

I went all AC because it is just for the grip heaters. Also a rectifier loses some of the power which is marginal with so few wraps.”

Second email from Firsthere:

“When soldering the coated wire the insulation needs to be sanded off so the connection bonds.

And the number of windings is determined by how close they get to the case/cover not flywheel.

You could wrap the three posts and tie into the stock rectifier and see what output you get. This leaves the original ignition and charging windings undisturbed so the bike would start even if the new windings failed. Maybe see if the 230f and 230L use the same rectifier, if so it should handle the additional power.” -- emails from Firsthere

Wire

Rectifiers are different:

2008 CRF230F rectifier: 31600-GAG-K21 (replaces part #31600-GAG-K20)

2008 CRF230L 31600-HN5-M40 RECTIFIER ASSY., REGULATOR

A few links:

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/50-electrical-discussion/18510-diy-stator-rewind.html

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/939003-just-wound-my-xr100-stator/

"Roll your own headlight coil" is not found

https://www.instructables.com/id/Rebuild-your-bike-s-expensive-stator/

https://www.cycleforums.com/forums/11-pit-area/247497-how-rewind-stator-pics.html

Chuck posted links on 4 December 2018:

Rewind CRF150F stator: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/659670-let-there-be-light-stator-wrapping/
Long thread on understanding and modding motorcycle alternators: https://advrider.com/f/threads/stators-demystified.189734/
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/493361-stator-dc-conversion-question/

Above: 4 December; 11 October 2018 by Firsthere, Chuck, and JXG

Link to the section above: http://bit.ly/2yd10ZA

Trail Tech Stator and Rec/Reg Upgrade

Using a chainsaw rack half the year, I tend to take if off in the winter and keep using two RUN-D LEDs as Auxiliary riding lights. This means the headlight above sits on the shelf.

I would like to operate the RUN-D LEDs all the time for conspicuity... too many crazed quads and turbocharged sand rails out there. And sometimes motos also.

Daytime running lights (DRLs) could save a half-second coming around a blind spot... which could make the difference between impact and near-miss.

I’m also interesting in automatic on / off of lighting and other accessories, which I liked on my XTrainer. This provides one-button start, one-button stop without an ignition switch which is extremely convenient. Also a little dangerous: the bike is ready to go if one button is touched. (I am trying to figure out a clutch safety switch.)

The RaceTech Rec/Reg has a nice timeout function that keeps the lighting circuit on for an adjustable period after the engine stops. Note this Rec/Reg will not work with a stock grounded stator.

What is the stock stator output?

Ramz: “I checked the stator output myself. The manual states that the system is rated at 65 watts. The actual was slightly higher, but I still modified my lights to comply with Honda's specifications. With the headlight, taillight, and brake light on, the system draws 54 watts.” page

Frickin’ Jim: The OEM stator “will put out a maximum amount of 60 watts to the 12v DC system on the CRF230F. 60 watts seems like quite a bit. However, consider that it only generates 60 watts at high RPM and that the CRF230F is mostly operated at low RPM.” page

But accessory loads must be less than 35 watts:

My RUN-D's pull 1.28 amps x 12.76 volts = 16 watts each. So two are 32 watts. These LEDs run down the battery. With the engine on, they drop the voltage by 0.5 volts. After awhile the battery goes to to 12.3 volts and then it won't crank. Bump starting can be impossible in sandy badlands, canyon bottoms, etc.

Options

I thought about rewinding the stator myself, but this seems like exacting work, not much fun, and the winding can short or break at some future time. Because I ride in the backcounty reliability is always a priority so I decided to go with a stator crafted by experts who do this precise work every day.

After reading a few reviews I decided to go with the Trail Tech, which is a 70 watt stator combined with the automatic rec/reg: https://www.trailtech.net/sr-8260

^^^ Here is what you get in the kit. Honda calls the crankshaft position sensor the CKP.

What is the output? “The Trail Tech stator guarantees 70 watts at just above idle, and I’ve found that it even produces plenty of wattage at idle!” page

What you need to install the Trail Tech system

If you want to keep the bike upright, do this project as part of an oil change. Otherwise you will have to lay the bike on its side to access the left case without losing oil.

Trail Tech says “Be sure to inspect the stator cover side case gasket prior to re-installation. If the gasket is worn or damaged replace it!”. A little late. This is a one-shot gasket. Just go ahead and get one; you will be glad you did: GASKET, L. COVER 11395-KCN-010.

Preferred gasket removal supplies. This is the biggest part of the project. Plan a couple hours. CRC gets a good review for just this kind of gasket. Not having any on hand, I tried Goof-Off, flux remover, mineral spirits, Sea Foam, heat gun, aluminum angle as a scraper, and a razor blade.

A few tips. Soak with mineral spirits or Sea Foam. Scrape the same section of gasket from different angles. When you get some off, soak again. Try the unsharpened (90-degree square edge) ends of the razor blade. Wear leather gloves in case you slip with the blade. Try not to scrape the aluminum excessively.

4 mm hex key socket is good for torquing the CKP bolts to the correct values. Just 5 Nm so digital torque meter is good to have.

Silicone to seal the cable gland and also to put on the case side of the new gasket

There is no need for a flywheel puller on the CRF230F. Apparently some bikes require this.

Step-by-step

Drain carb bowl if stock carb or other carb with drain screw

Remove seat and tank

Lay bike over on right side

Remove skid plate. Ricochet requires T40 driver.

Clean up 10 lbs of debris; gravel, pine needles, and cactus spines for me

There is a good diagram of what you are getting into on Service Manual, p. 10-2

Remove starter cover and gear

Remove shifter after noting or marking the position so you get the same height when you reinstall. I had to use a gear puller because mine is on very tight.

Remove sprocket cover.

Use vacuum to clean out stuff in this area

Remove the sheet metal guard and clean out more stuff so it does not fall into the oil zone when you remove the side cover

^^^ Slip plastic collar off the neutral post

^^^ Unclip the neutral lead. This is a bare wire under tension from a spring-loaded washer underneath it. Push down on the washer with a screwdriver and the wire will come loose.

Disconnect the wiring harness. The neutral switch is a single bullet connector that pulls apart. Push the modular plug tighter together, depress the tab, then pull apart.

Loosen but don’t remove the cover bolts

Gently tap the cover loose with a soft hammer

Lift the cover off, being careful of any remaining stuff around the wiring harness rubber boot that can fall into the engine.

Changing the stator

Carry the cover to the workbench, still keeping the bolts in place

Make a diagram or punch card for the bolts--they are different lengths

Confirm that your new gasket fits

Remove the crankshaft sensor unit (Honda calls this the CKP) hex screws (Service Manual, p. 10-5)

Observe how the CKP cable drops down and around the stator and then runs across the “floor” of the side cover under a metal cover. More about this later.

Remove the three stator bolts. Two of mine were very tight.

Now pry out the cable grommet (note my different order from service manual)

^^^ Scrape off the old gasket (I did this before removing the stator, which made a big mess of the old stator)

Clean out the side cover to remove all the gasket particles. I submerged the whole thing in the kitchen sink with dish detergent. If you use water, be sure to flush it out of the five threaded mounts with spray solvent. Then blow out with duster or compressed air so the threadlocker will work.

^^^ Old and new stators. Notice the TrailTech has all posts wound, and the copper wire is much heavier gauge than the stock stator. This increases the magnetic induction and thus the output.

Set the new stator and CKP into position. The CKP cable runs across the “floor” of the side case inside a little tunnel provided by a metal channel. This keeps the cable away from the flywheel whizzing by millimeters above it.

At his point I realized the CKP cover was angled differently than the OEM. This is on the right side of the photo below:

So it was hitting one of the reinforcing ridges in the cover instead of running in the valley between the ridges. This did not seem right at all so I bent it straight.

This is the kind of small detail you have to watch for with aftermarket parts. You don’t have an expert factory assembler noticing small defects and fitting things together.

Honda says to oil the stator bolts and use threadlocker on the CKP bolts (Service Manual, p. 10-6). This is the way mine was, so I did not second-guess Honda.

Put in one stator bolt to make sure it is aligned.

Reach under the stator to make sure the CKP wire is not pinched under the stator

Clean the old threadlocker off the CKP bolts and apply new threadlocker

Install CKP bolts and torque to 5 Nm. I used a 4 mm hex key socket and the usual HF digital torque meter. I checked and this starts to register at about 5 Nm, so close enough.

Oil and install the stator bolts. No torque numbers are provided, so use the 8 mm standard value on p. 1-12: 22 N-m. Or not? That number is for a steel bolt and steel nut. This is a steel bolt into an aluminum thread in a very expensive casting. I went to 14 N-m with the digital meter and I was done. More did not feel like a good idea.

Apply silicone sealant to the grommet and slide it into place

Install the wire clamp making sure the little boss sticks through the hole

Cover install

Sequence is on Service Manual, p. 10-10

Clean up the engine gasket surface, keeping scrapings out of the engine

The new gasket has a “wood grain” side that goes towards the engine and a plain side that goes towards the cover. The wood grain does not stick. The plain side REALLY sticks. BTR suggested putting a thin coat of silicone on the plain side to possibly move removal easier. I decided to try this.

I did not use a new O-ring on the starter motor, but cleaned it and lubed with O-ring grease

Put some oil on the starter shaft

Place the left cover into position and tap gently to seat it

Reinstall the bolts, tightening in a criss-cross pattern.. No torques are specified. BTR hand-tightens and then checks at 100 miles. I torqued to 10 N-m.

Install the alternator wire clamp, making sure the cable goes under the tab and exits to the rear through gaps in the casting:

^^^ Notice how the cable runs under the tab on the clamp, then through a gap in the casting. This arrangement protects the cable once the sprocket cover is installed.

Also make sure the new white neutral wire runs behind it and down.

Connect the neutral switch wire. I held down the spring-loaded washer with one pair of needle nose pliers and pushed the wire through with another. Make sure the wire goes all the way through and comes out the other side.

I could not get the plastic collar to stay in place around the neutral connector. Then mine helpfully snapped in half. I would order one, but I can’t even find the neutral switch in the parts diagrams. Does not seem critical.

Make sure the idle gear and shaft have oil on them

Place the idle gear into position, then the shaft and cover. Again I did not replace the O-ring.

Install the long bolt on the bottom and short on top. I went back and forth between them, ending up at 10 N-m torque.

Install the sprocket cover

Install the shifter at the same height as before

Installing the rec/reg and wiring harness

Like the old cable, the new one runs up to a point left of the carb where the ignition connector plugs into the stock ignition system:

This area is messy on my bike because of the shock reservoir, override switch (you can see it wire-tied to the reservoir) and neutral lamp wiring in this area. Two yellow wires run onward to the rec/reg. These carry AC so there is no polarity.

The rec/reg will turn this AC into DC (rectification) and even out the wild swings in voltage at different engine speeds (regulation). The result is steady 12 volts DC to charge the battery and power DC accessories.

The CRF230F has limited space on top of the airbox, but there is enough to mount the rec/reg there if you put it in the right position. The cable bundle sticks up above the rec/reg.

The ruler is running level between the frame rails and you can see the wires go above the ruler:

^^^ You can also see the rub points where the seat sits on the frame rails.

The trick is to position that cable bundle under the part of the seat bottom that has some headroom. Looking in from the side, you can see the wires have plenty of room:

Here is the final mounting position:

I did not secure the rec/reg but if inspection shows it is moving around I will add a screw.

Grounding is unclear to me. The rec/reg case has a ground symbol, but the Trail Tech system is supposed to be floating ground. Sitting on top of the plastic airbox the case is ungrounded. Except, it is touching the frame. So maybe it is grounded. Anyway, it works fine

The next step is to run the battery cables around the battery box and connect them up:

The negative wire takes a shortcut to the battery (left side above) while the red positive runs all the way around the battery box, past the starter relay and connects on the right side.

Above, I have a completely separate 12AWG fused wire to the front of the bike which separates the accessories from the critical ignition and starting circuits. This has a manual override switch.

There is also another cable hanging down with an SAE connector for float charging the battery or powering other accessories like a spotlight on my helmet.

The final step is to connect the automatic timed rec/reg output to your accessories.

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1264404-add-lights-to-crf230f-stator-winging/?do=findComment&comment=14340231

Additional switches

Manual override switch. Before the rec/reg this was the way to turn all the accessories on and off. I left this switch in place as an emergency bypass in case the rec/reg automatic timed circuit fails.

Light switch on handlebars allows me to turn off the LEDs for oncoming drivers or to reduce load on the battery when cranking.

Revised circuit diagram

(coming soon)

Threads:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1280386-increasing-stator-power/

https://advrider.com/f/threads/trail-tech-stator-kit-step-by-step-with-pix.1355189/

Thanks to BTR for technical advice as noted above

Above: 16, 15, 14, 4 December; 24 July 2018 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2KUzFjP

Adding a neutral indicator LED

First of all, the CRF230F does not need a neutral indicator light. A number of riders report they have successfully found neutral without a light, sometimes more than once in a single ride. Furthermore, neutral indicator lights have a stigma associated with dual sports. Real dirt riders don’t need no indicator light because they are one with their gearbox.

But, it’s a fun little project and kind of handy to have. And it can serve as a good introduction to electrical mods on the CRF230F.

Here is the starter circuit, courtesy of the Honda Service Manual (p. 17-2):

The starter circuit works as follows. The neutral switch is open except when the transmission is in neutral. (More or less: most neutral switches are approximate.) The clutch switch is open except when squeezed. When either one is closed, the bike is in a safe state and ground is completed for the starter relay. This circuit is only energized when both the starter button and ignition switch are closed.

The indicator circuit was designed by tedcool (link). It uses a diode to prevent back feed of 12v from neutral indicator lamp connection at neutral switch through the clutch switch. This allows the clutch switch to serve its original purpose while also activating the LED. The LED will only function when the ignition switch is on. If you don’t turn your ignition off, this will cause battery drain.

Components needed

Diode. A 50 volt, 6 amp rectifier diode is good. I had a 100 volt, 6 amp diode and it worked fine too. You don’t want to go much below 6 amps. (If you have a collection of 50 volt diodes, you can bundle them in parallel to sum up to 6 amps. Really? Doesn’t seem right.)

https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Schottky-Barrier-Rectifier-DO-201AD/dp/B07XDJGDQP

LED. Obviously there are many options for LEDs. I had a 12 mm blue bolt beam from SuperBrightLEDs. 37 lumens... is a very bright indicator. Cover with tape and now you can look at it with your remaining eye. I put a 180 ohm resistor in series and this brings it down to a nice daylight level, but it will still be bright at night. I will replace it with a green one later.

The mod

The modification is performed at two locations: back near the battery and at the front end. Here is the connection to the neutral switch with a test probe attached:

Note this is above the connector so the engine can still be disconnected easily.

A quick mockup proved out the design. Even with green tape over it the LED is very bright.

The diode and wire soldered into position. Note the line on the diode is down towards the neutral switch:

No idea why there are apparent paint marks on the wires.

The green wire has been run up and towards the front end of the bike.

The soldered area has been wrapped tightly with “X-Treme Tape TPE-XZLCLR Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape” (Amazon).

This is excellent tape for electrical mods because it fuses together chemically.

Neutral indicator on the dashboard:

UPDATE May 2017: I really like this indicator. When I am chainsawing on narrow trails there is a lot of workload in getting stopped and ready for action and having the light is handy.

Here is another article: https://advrider.com/f/threads/add-a-neutral-light-to-your-crfxxx-how-to.1018160/

Update 2024

For riding technical singletrack, being able to start in gear is essential in steep terrain: when you are balancing with both feet there is no way to work the shifter.

And sometimes it is useful to start with the clutch engaged. For example, if the engine won’t start and you need to get out of the water right now then by all means use the starter as your motor.

This version retains the indicator LED but there are no safety switches. Condition 0, ready to fire! (JXG, 11 September 2024)

Link: http://bit.ly/2DETWby

Upgrading the starter / stop button

Back in 2014, the fourth time I rode my used, nearly-stock CRF this note resulted:

“On tight turn, I think the throttle hooked on a Juniper. Bike over-revved and went down. I was lying on right side and bike screaming because throttle now in dirt. Finally it stalled. This could have been bad. Need brush guards! Also install kill switch!”

So among many upgrades I added a “K&S Technologies 12-0101 Honda CR Style Engine Kill Switch” on the left bar. The construction is primitive but it held up fairly well--but has been getting a bit intermittent.

Meanwhile I bought a “Sicass Racing Start/Kill Switch for 2016 KTM 300 XC-W” RMAM intending to install it on my Xtrainer but that didn’t happen.

So I decided to use it on my CRF230F. The Sicass has fancy plugs set up to match the KTM. I removed these and made the following connections:

Here is the new switch in place and the old starter switch:

Custom control panel with voltage meter

When I moved the chainsaw rack onto the CRF, I built a small control panel with the riding lights switch and neutral indicator LED:

I decided to build a new panel including a voltage meter.

Why a voltage meter? The CRF230F has a dirt bike electrical system: it will run without a battery. However, it won’t crank without a battery (ref). I have bump-started mine when the battery went dead (end of life), but this may not be an option on sandy flatlands, at the bottom of a rocky canyon, or on narrow singletrack.

So it is a good idea to keep an eye on the battery and charging system state of health. I decided to add a “MOTOPOWER DC 12V LED Digital Display” Amazon.

Since I wanted the panel to be very compact the first thing I did was work up a dimensional drawing in Visio:

Next I printed out the drawing on cardstock and compared it to the actual location:

Then I laid out the meter and switch boots to make sure there was enough spacing for finger operation:

The panel itself is 1 mm sheet. I used the cardstock as a template to cut out the panel with sheet metal shears. Then I center-punched the holes:

A step drill is always handy for making large holes. I usually hold the metal in my hand... the drill will bind so wear heavy leather gloves if you do this!

A piece of more flexible 0.7 mm aluminum sheet from a MC license plate wraps around the handlebar. This is pop-riveted to the panel. Two long thin machine screws tighten around the handlebar:

In my original design, the neutral indicator light was activated as soon as the ignition switch was turned on. So I added a momentary switch to power up all the accessories including the voltage meter and neutral light. I am pressing that button above.

I will add labels once the panel is fully accepted.

The panel hangs down but is fairly well protected from impact during falls. Rocks on the ground may take it out:

UPDATE. The wiring and connectors for this panel were complex and bulky. It’s a lot to fit into a small area. I took most of it apart chasing a short and never put it back together. I really did not like the neutral indicator down low; I wanted it back up on the bars near the clutch. Interesting project but did not work out.

^^^ Instead I made two small panels near the clutch. One for the neutral indicator, one for the riding lights LED and booted switch.

The LEDs are bright even dimmed with resistors, so the Gorilla tape patches are for night riding. I might add small potentiometers for dimming.

This simpler setup works well. And the combination of hose clamps and Gorilla tape patches have a remarkable “designer look”, it seems to me.

Above: 12 March 2019; 25, 23, 17 December 2017 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2ByBHRi

Wiring harness 2017-2018: SAE plugs to terminal strips

In 2016 I did a street conversion including a Baja Designs headlight. As you add lights and other accessories the bike goes from a minimalist wiring harness to quite a bit more complicated.

In 2017 the CRF became my primary chainsaw bike, so I installed D-Run riding lights and stuffed the wiring harness behind the chainsaw rack.

Keep in mind, even with a headlight cowling the 230F has very limited space. With the chainsaw rack, volume goes down to a few cubic inches in a thin rectangle. This is very challenging to work within.

The situation behind the chainsaw rack is shown below. Everything is based on SAE plugs, soldered connections, and self-vulcanizing tape. It is compact but kind of a mess.

^^^ To help reduce abrasion I had wrapped the wiring in two pieces of inner tube. You can see one on the fender.

This held up into December 2017 when I re-stuffed the wiring and... the bike started blowing main fuses out on the trail. Not good.

It was time for a revision of the wiring harness, with a primary goal of high reliability for backcountry riding. For example, this post concerned me. I want the ignition system and accessories to be totally separate.

I decided to use terminal strips because I like to solder connections and then seal/reinforce with a marine shrink tubing like Ancor Amazon. But NASA demonstrates in classes that soldered connections fail on a vibration table and proper crimp connections do not. There are NO soldered connections permitted in aviation (ref).

I did not know how this new design would hold up....

Terminal strip options

Amazon
Amazon
Above may have quality problems
McMaster is very compact

Update. See Wiring harness 2018.

Above: 27, 23, 17 December 2017 by JXG

Wiring harness 2018: Wago wire nuts

The 2017-2018 terminal strips provided a “bus” architecture for the positive and negative supplies but solder joints failed, wires came loose, and backflows caused shorts.

It was Mess 2.0 -- time for another rethinking of the whole thing.

Transition to crimp connectors

NASA demonstrates in classes that soldered connections fail on a vibration table and proper crimp connections do not (ref).

Here is a tutorial on crimping. Besides a good tool, it takes practice. The ratcheting-is-better perspective: post

Update. I have found the Titan Tools 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper to be amazing. It costs $20!

The MONOLIT PREMIUM Heat Shrink Butt Connectors (Kit180) are reasonably priced and very high quality.

The combination is fun to use and completely addictive. I have used it for all kinds of projects.

Deprecation of self-vulcanizing electrical tape

I used to think this stuff was great. No more. The butyl type rots / melts and has very low abrasion resistance. (Note the silicone form is better but it does not conform to small wires.)

With the transition to heat shrink crimp connectors I no longer need to tape or shrink wrap soldered connections.

To protect sections of wire, plastic wiring loom is very abrasion resistant.

Plug connectors for quick disconnect

Bullet connectors are preferred by OEMs: link

SAE trailer connectors generally work well but are a bit bulky.

I have tried Chinese Deutsch-type connectors like these Amazon. They can fit a lot of conductors into a small area. I have tended to use them for non-moto projects like a quick-disconnect for my trailer lighting converter.

(Note: These trailer lighting converters are junk and fail quickly if they are left connected to your vehicle when you are not towing.)

The Kaifa brand have been reliable but are a pain to assemble. I found they had to be soldered; the crimps are too tiny to hold otherwise. You don’t need the crimping tool they suggest, just needle nose pliers and soldering.

Eastern Beaver -- which generally advocates crimping -- shows how to do this here. The connector provides enough support to the wire that soldering does not cause a stress point.

Here are higher quality Deutsch-type connectors: link

https://www.mcmaster.com/#81905k13/=1cmy8ph

Bus connectors for positive and negative supply: screw options

Quality screw terminals are more robust than soldering and relatively easy to disconnect.

Eastern Beaver fusebox with screw connectors is impressive but expensive: link

Inexpensive screw terminal strip

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/781/=1axijjx

You can solder a wire across all terminals, thus creating a bus. One for hot and one for ground.

I was about to go this direction when I came across the Wago Lever Nuts: post

^^^ Five connections in a device the size of your thumb is impressive

http://www.wago.us/products/termina...-for-all-conductor-types-222-series/overview/

Because of the quick release function, it appeared they could replace not only crimp connectors but also some of the SAE and Deutsch-type plugs that I tended to use.

The one issue I saw was water. It seems like water will be drawn inside by capillary action, not evaporate quickly, and cause corrosion. To prevent this I put Burndy Penetrox Amazon conducting grease in each opening.

^^^ The top Wago has a feed wire and four connections above. The SAE connectors also have 4 connections... quite a difference in size. Note that the SAE connectors have positive and negative poles, whereas the Wago is one or the other: it’s a bus. So the picture is not quite fair, but it does suggest the potential space savings.

^^^ Here is the setup that resulted. Instead of various plug connectors, the wires from the accessories just come down and plug into two Wago buses. In effect the Wagos provide both a bus and plug. It is very compact.

Update after 5 months. No wires have pulled out. It just works.

Above: 14 March 2019; 31 December 2017 by JXG

Lithium battery upgrade

What is the impact of a suddenly-dead battery?

The 230F does not have a kickstarter. On the other hand, the 230F (unlike the 230L) has a magneto ignition so it will bump start without a battery.

On the other hand, bump starting in flat terrain can be impossible: deep sand or rocky arroyos, narrow technical ST, mud pits, swamps, etc.

Another example is a narrow V-arroyo between two steep slopes. It may be impossible to haul the bike up the slopes far enough and then turn it around if there are rocks or up-steps.

But it may be possible to use the arroyo itself to get a run and bump start. But not if there are steps or dry waterfalls or deep sand or boulders in the arroyo. None of which are uncommon on technical trails.

Not being able to bump start is a slightly rare situation. But rare situations happen all the time.

Note also that kickstarters are going extinct so it is time to make all batteries even more reliable… because they are the weak link in the starting system.

Note that a compression release can greatly ease bump starting, as pointed out by Chuck and Adnohguy in posts starting here

Can a crash / fall cause a lead acid to fail suddenly?

Two incidents have been reported: Tom Droze post and RM post.

What are the advantages of lithium over lead acid, from a backcountry perspective?

My ordering is...

Physical robustness. More resistant to vibration and impact (jumps, falls, crashes)

In principle and in general, this appears to be true. But... BTR reports he installed a lithium on one of his CRFs, the bike fell over onto concrete in his garage, and the lithium never worked again. Go figure.

Testable. Maintainers test on the bench and the Antigravity Bluetooth sensor tests under load. Both can predict failures before they occur.

Backup technology. Antigravity battery has “Re-Start” reserve circuit. It is amazing the number of situations that will leave you with a dead battery.

Light weight

Price is now comparable to lead acid and lithium will probably last much longer, especially if a maintainer is used

Life span. Reports of Shorai still going strong after 4 and 6 years post

“But wait, I carry a little lithium jump pack that will start my 460 cubic inch V-8!”

It will... if your V-8 has a dead but otherwise good battery. If any vehicle battery fails by shorting out or for no apparent reason, the jump pack is not going to help because it needs a working battery to charge up for a few minutes. (A watercraft rental owner pointed this out to me.)

Well, with a starter as small as the 230F a jump pack just might produce enough amps itself. I doubt it but have not actually tried it. I had a jump pack but it would never charge completely so took it back to Costco and did not get another

What are some battery options? What about a bigger battery?

Chuck remarks on his table below from this post:

“The Shorai have a lot more power the OEM Yuasa lead acid batteries.

“I've had a Shorai in my X since 2014 and it always starts the bike and has never needed a trickle charger, even during 6 months of storage. IMO better than any lead acid battery.

Table below: “The first Shorai is for the 230 and 250x, the second is for the 450X and has a lot more power.

“The [Yuasa] CRF450X battery is larger than the 230F but the 450 Shorai will be smaller and probably fit the the 230 battery box, check battery sizes.

“The Shorai 250X battery (same as 230) is much smaller than the OEM battery and requires spacers to fit the battery box.

Battery	Size	Dimensions	Weight (Lbs)	AH	CCA
Shorai	LFX07L2-BS12	4.45W x 2.28D x 3.5H	0.93	7	102
Shorai	LFX09L2-BS12	4.45W x 2.28D x 3.5H	1.28	9	135
Yuasa	YTX5L-BS	4.49W x 2.8D x 4.14H	4	4	79
Yuasa	YTZ7S	4.45W x 2.76D x 4.21H	4.4	5.5	120

^^^ Table by Chuck from post

Caution on lithium cell quality: it can change over time

“Had an account with a battery retailer that sold Shorai. About 1 in 12 were bad and got returned so they dropped them. Our experience was about the same. ... I'd use the brands that use japanese cells vs china.” - Highmarker post

Question: Is it possible that Chuck's reliable 2014 Shorai has Japanese cells and Shorai has more recently switched to cheaper cells?

For example, Panasonic has done some switcheroo on the famous Eneloop brand: "Test results were very clear. After 20 recharge cycles, Twicell [Japan] factory "Fujitsu" rechargeable AA batteries still maintained their charge-holding ability very well. "Made in China" Panasonic eneloop AA batteries didn't." - interesting Amazon review that talks about the history of Japanese and Chinese manufacturing

What about Antigravity Re-Start Lithium Battery?

“The Re-Start function is a circuit board that "disconnects" the cells, so that they are unable to lose more voltage through an outside draw. Hitting the Re-Start button "reconnects" the cells with enough juice to turn over your motor.” - Amazon question

^^^ RMAM price is similar to Amazon and gets you free shipping on other items

What kind of cells do Antigravity batteries use?

“We use what is called a prismatic/pouch cell. We do not use cylindric cells.” - FAQ

Note: Prismatic and pouch cells are distinct types: page. Antigravity may use each type in different batteries.

Do I really need a special maintainer?

From the Antigravity manual…. “The Antigravity Batteries Starter Batteries operate and are recharged correctly with any stock/standard charging system found in modern 12-volt vehicles. Under normal operating conditions, and if you are riding/driving enough to keep the battery charged, the Antigravity Battery should rarely need to be charged.

But in some circumstances your battery may become over-discharged due to not riding / driving enough, it was in storage, the lights were left on, or you have extra accessories that drain the battery when the vehicle is not running. In these cases charging may be needed.” PDF

But maintaining is more than charging with a lithium battery

“The extensive post-charge testing (if you ALLOW it to actually do a 12 hour long-term test) can give you an indication of problems long before bike issues leave you stranded.” review

There is a lot going on in a lithium battery. Even the entry-level TM-471 maintainer goes through 8 steps in maintaining the battery. Amazon, $60

Tecmate

RMAM

Amazon, read the reviews. Here is a very positive one, some less so.

Note: Per an Amazon Question, Optimate and Tecmate are identical in everything but brand name. Tecmate usually shows an Optimate box. It’s also Prime.

What if I damage my battery, e.g. by accidentally over-discharging?

It can happen: example. The more expensive TM-291 may recover the battery.

Tecmate Amazon, $116
Optimate Amazon, $116

Should I leave my lithium battery on the maintainer?

Given the low self-discharge of lithiums, there is no need for “float” or desulfation charging like lead acid. And unlike lead acid, lithium batteries do have a history of developing internal shorts, catching fire, and, well, burning down your house or airplane. This is a major bummer when it happens.

So let the maintainer do its steps and then unplug it? On the other hand, others point out that quality maintainers stop charging the battery and only check it periodically. But what if it fails into charge mode? I unplug mine after a day.

What about cold conditions, e.g. camping out?

“Are people using on snow bikes? How do they work with in cold temps? ANSWER: Per Antigravity, operating temp is from -4 F to 130 F. If it is very cold it is recommended to use the starter for a few short times or turn on the lights to get the battery to self warm and you will then have full battery power. post

Yes, there is an app to track your battery health on the bike via Bluetooth!

This is a big deal because while a maintainer tests the battery on the bench, this sensor studies the battery under load on your bike. It analyzes each start. And predicts failures. Huge.

Antigravity $36

Amazon $36

Note there is a version for lead acid also

Dimensions: 2.75 x 2 x 0.7 in. Not sure where I could cram this on the CRF230F. Maybe there is space on top of the airbox but it would be very tight: see pic here

UPDATE November 2019

JXG: I have been using the Antigravity ATZ-7 for 6 months. So far it has been flawless.

UPDATE November 2024: 5 yrs, no problems

Above: 5 December 2024; 15, 4 November; 3, 2 April 2019 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2OGKZCn

Brakes

Stronger front braking: An unobvious solution

Some riders will try an oversize rotor to improve their braking. But BTR points out that the 230 has the same brake caliper as an XR650R -- which is a 320 pound bike. This is a hint that the rotor is not the issue.

The problem is actually in the brake hose, not the brake itself. The hose is soft.

Why is the stock hose soft? Because the CRF230F is a beginner bike and a soft hose makes the brakes less powerful and intimidating for beginners.

So braking can be increased dramatically by using a brake hose that does not expand like a rubber balloon --- thus sending more pressure to the caliper. post (The same type of soft hose is used on stock automobiles. Steel racing hoses are a typical upgrade for better brake performance.)

BTR finds that an upgraded hose alone, without an oversized rotor, is “almost too much brake.”

A stronger brake reduces hand fatigue and makes one-finger braking possible post. One-finger braking means a better grip on the bars. It also reduces fatigue on long rides.

Other reasons to use the stock rotor: if you ride in rocks the stock rotor is smaller, thicker and more damage resistant. But it does not have the bling factor.

BTR recommends an XR650R, XR250, or XR400 hose from 1996 onwards because they are sized to go around a headlight.

Either Honda OEM or Galfer: “Requires less pressure at the brake lever, allowing the rider to use less force yet stopping the bike faster with much better feel ... 16 braided strands of steel around the line, making the lines expansion zero at all times.”

The stock hose length goes across the number plate. A new hose should be longer than stock so it will go around a headlight and/or to better handle swapped forks.

Notice how the XR hose below on BTR’s bike is well to the left side of the bike because it is sized to go around a headlight:

The stock hose is 48.5 inches from the centers of the banjo bolts. If you need to bend the metal tubing at a banjo bolt, clamp the banjo bolt in a vise with aluminum plates to protect the banjo bolt. New crush washers are not typically needed when you change the hose.

Here is a Galfer XR250R for $45 on eBay link

JXG mod

For my CRF150RB swap project in 2017, I bought brake hose 45125-KRN-A31 as listed by Ramz. New at Partzilla $60; RMAM does not stock.

This fits 2011 CRF250R, 2011 CRF450R, and others. These are motocross bikes so the hose is not as long as an XR.

But I never put it on because the stock hose (barely) fit with a chainsaw rack on the front. So the hose has been on the shelf. The length is 49.5 inches. Thus it is not as long as XR hoses -- but it is longer than stock -- and I have it.

Here is how the hoses compare:

^^^ The top hose is the new 45125-KRN-A31, the cable in the middle is for the speedo, and the bottom is the stock CRF230F hose.

Notice the top hose is thinner. It is probably made of Teflon inner layer, wire or Kevlar (post) braid, plastic outer layer, then clear tubing. It is also very stiff compared to the stock hose. Mountain bikes with hydraulic brakes use similar hose.

It is not an XR hose but I will try this new hose and report results.

The mod

Removed banjo bolts, let hose drain out. Fluid was very dark.

The new hose fit perfectly but is slightly longer. I did not have to bend the tubing at the banjo bolts. Below you can see the additional slack:

I put in new Prestone DOT 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid and bled the air out; see Bleeding section.

RESULTS: The change is not overwhelming... which would not be safe. But it is certainly a noticeable increase in braking power. Being able to use one finger reduces fatigue and allows a tighter grip. Definitely an upgrade to consider if you want more powerful braking.

Above: 3, 2, 1 October 2018 by JXG and BTR

Changing brake fluid and/or bleeding air out of the system

On an older bike it is a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Braking is important and components are expensive... clean fluid is a good thing.

I pumped most of a bottle through to flush out the system. The fluid was not only dark, but there were definitely dirt particles in my 2008 bike:

Note DOT 4 absorbs water (hydrophilic) so some say it should not be used after it is opened. Even that it should be purchased in steel cans... which don’t seem to be available.

The MotionPro bleeder did not seem any more effective than a piece of 5/16-inch OD tubing. Despite priming there was still air above the check valve so it really did not help much.

You will typically have to operate the lever many, many times to get air out. You should see a couple bubbles at a time come up into the reservoir. Be patient and gradually you will be rewarded with a firm lever.

Keep the reservoir full to avoid getting more air in the line.

Once the lever starts to firm up, hold it down, open the bleed screw to let some air bubbles out, close the bleed screw, then release the lever. This sequence should expel the final air in the line.

The reservoir has a rubber bladder / gasket which goes under the cover. For this to fit, the level of brake fluid should be slightly below the sight glass. Put in the bladder and the level will come up. But again don’t let it go too low or more air will get in.

Above: 26 October 2018 by JXG

Can rear braking be improved?

Pedal impact and bending... “Any old XR has a folding tip on the pedal. Weld it on.” - BTR post

“As recommended by forum members , I switched to an Indie billet rear brake pedal.... Surprisingly it made for better brake response and feedback from the drum rear brake (that I hate).... Apparently the stock steel brake arm does have a lot of flex to it... I had to enlarge the inner diameter of the backing washer for the indie... Don't know if the Hammerhead needs the washer mod... - Mixxer post

Indie is also shown on the Ramz footpeg page: eBay, price varies: $31 to $45

Hammerhead. “I use Hammerhead levers on all my bunny bikes. Good stuff, light, less flex, adjustable pedal pad for rear set pegs, I like them.” - Adnohguy post

^^ Hammerhead photo courtesy of Confederate

Hammerhead Moto, $100. Use discount code GOON for 15% off any Hammerhead products post

Tusk. RMAM, $60

Above: 10, 3 October 2018 by JXG

Adjusting the brakes when mounting wheels

Rear. “There is a little play in the brake panel where the axle goes thru. After adjusting the chain and before tightening the axle, spin the wheel and lock the brakes. Then tighten the axle while holding brakes. This will ensure that it's exactly centered. Then properly adjust the brake rod. It's not a lot but every little bit helps.”

Front. “Same thing when tightening the front caliper bracket. Spin the wheel and apply the brake till the wheel locks, hold it locked and then tighten the caliper bracket (this ensures that the wear on the pads matches the wear pattern on the rotor).” -- combined from Doogee57 post, Confederate post

Above: 10 October 2018 by Doogee57, Confederate, and JXG

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1237402-how-much-weight-is-lost-with-a-rear-disc-brake-conversion/

What about a rear disk brake conversion?

“My first two complaints about the 230, coming from my KTM XCF-W 250 was front suspension and rear brake. I've since had the front suspension done by Bruce, and adjusted the rear drum to the best I'm gonna get, but still think the drum sucks compared to a disk.” post

“It could be my imagination, but the drum on my 230 seemed to have a little less modulation than the disks on my other bikes. When dry, it didn't seem to take much to lock the wheel up.” post

“Maintenance. A well set up drum can be as good as a disk in performance (ask anyone with an '82 YZ) but won't stay that way long without being pulled apart and cleaned out/adjusted often. And yep, submerging them in water makes 'em not work for a bit, it was common to have to drag the brake for a while after water crossings.” post

“I just completed two drum to disc conversions. I am 100% happy with the results and personally recommend this conversion. Braking performance is greatly improved, no fade, better control, no issues with water or mud. I think my conversion process was fairly straight forward and only required welding a bracket to hold the MC. I used brand new OEM CRF250F rear wheels since I got them for $70 each. I used a complete CRF250L rear brake setup including pedal, MC, hose, and caliper. I had to slightly modify the caliper bracket and torque bar on the swingarm to get it to work.” - Jeffrow68 post

“It should be the last thing you do as the rear drum brake works great. The disk brake skids a little quicker.” “Forgot to add our bikes are only trail rode so for me no big deal -- racing go for it.” BTR post (Note BTR has done two conversions.)

Pros of disk brake conversion

Probably finer control of braking, e.g. reducing lockup in loose conditions
If you ride in wet conditions, disk will not fade as much when wet and it will dry out quicker than a drum brake
Easier to remove and replace the wheel
Pedal does not go up and down with swingarm movement
Can use a hydraulic brake light switch, which is more reliable than a mechanical switch
Potential to add a left hand brake for extreme conditions where the feet must be on the ground or the pedal is difficult to operate. This would be a custom conversion using a clutch or brake master cylinder, or a Clake system.

Cons of disk brake conversion

Will you even notice the difference when trail riding (versus street riding where reduced stopping distance might save your life)?
Large project
No net weight savings
Disk is vulnerable to rock impacts if you ride in boulders and bedrock ledges

Some bikes have aluminum disk guards available which would help if they were retrofitted. Most non-metal guards seem to be cosmetic bling that will not protect the rotor from real impacts.

There is more to go wrong. For example the caliper can stick, and then the brake overheats and the fluid boils (JXG saw this happen in Baja). The drum brake is so simple that it is probably more reliable in the big picture.

Above: 15 November; 28 February 2019 by JXG and others quoted

Link to this Brakes section: http://bit.ly/2Qh6V6v

Tires

For Tubliss, UHD tubes, etc. see this page

Tire hardness data is here

What about trials tires for dry trail riding?

“The 230 works with different tires than the bigger bikes. The 230 can work with the mechanical grip the trials tire has without overpowering it. It never gets old when you just slowly ride around the bigger bikes after they spin out on a hill.” post

“A lot of people use trials tires on their 230's. The reason is that they both reward the same riding style. If you like to climb stuff with no drama, noise, or wheelspin, a trials tire on a 230 is a good choice. Both the bike and the tire type are also exceedingly durable. If your thing is sliding into corners and spinning out of them, digging ruts and throwing roost, you need a different tire (and bike).

Trials tires excel at straight line traction, especially on rocks and hardpack. They climb well. They don't destroy trails. For trail riders that primarily ride in good weather, it is the best tire. [Also in the arid west where conditions are often dry: JXG]

The weakness is loose stuff and downhills. They lock up easily on downhills and step out unexpectedly in corners. They don't work well on rocks covered thick in wet leaves, because they grip the surface instead of digging. Mud is not as bad as you might expect, because the tread flexes and squishes the clay out of the voids. Doesn't completely pack up, but still not as good (fast) as a soft terrain tire.” post

Wet, slick conditions? VE 33 and 35 recommended post

Shinko 546 series for soft terrain post

Some people run a trials tire on the rear and MX on the front

Design of trials tires

Be aware there is always a large difference between front and rear trials tires with a similar or even identical model number.

The rears are radial, tubeless, have strong sidewalls, and last a long time. Because they are designed to put power to the ground.

The fronts are bias, tube-type, have weak sidewalls, and the sidewalls can wear out by flexing -- especially if you run Tubliss. Front trials tires are designed to be squishy for the rider to work with.

I have been running the IRC TR011R rear tires for a long time. Knobs are like foam rubber: Shore A = 65. Very soft, great on rock. But they last 2000 miles even so and the sidewalls never show any wear.

^^^ New IRC TR011R compared to another with 1600 miles on it. Notice fiber material of a tubeless plug in the center.

I ran one IRC TR-11 front tube-type and at the end I was plugging the sidewalls. But it did hold up for over 1500 miles.

D803 coming soon… Chuck on the D803 rear post

The MT43 front is not terribly hard (Shore A = 78) and the sidewalls hold up well even with Tubliss at 7 to 8 psi. “Don't worry about side knobs--not needed.” BTR post.

Note the MT43 may be impossible to mount on the CRF230F front rim with Tubliss when it is new. The bead will not move into the correct position. After running with a tube for 600 miles, I was able to mount with Tubliss post.

Shinko 241 trials could not handle hard and fast desert riding. Switched to MT43. Frickin’ Jim Episode 11

Above JXG on 13 September 2018

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2Qswgvc

http://www.nomadic-racks.com/index.php?option=com_rokecwid&Itemid=62#!/Honda-CRF150F-230F-2003-2013-RACK-KIT/p/17623009/category=976080

Cargo

Saddlebags are a good option on the CRF230F because of their low center of gravity. Items can also be strapped on top.

Nomadic small steel rack: 10 x 9, 3 lbs, $85

Medium aluminum: $260

https://fastwayperformance.com/cargo-racks/cargo-rack-products/cargo-rack-honda-2003.html

Large steel: 18 x 12, $200

https://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/2/Default.aspx

VersaRack fork rack: $100

http://razorbackoffroad.com/store/p45/Versarack_.html

Carrying extra fuel

Getting more fuel out of the tank you already have post

FJim discusses the Clarke tank here

One other "Con" is having another 8 lbs (?) up high on the bike. I prefer to carry either a 2 quart Nalgene (tough) or 4 qt oil jug (not so tough) or 1 gallon steel solvent can (will dent) in a Wolfman saddlebag because the weight is low. But I don't like to ride over 60 miles so range is less of an issue. - JXG

Install of Clarke notes post and see BTR below it for reshaping the tank slightly

FJim is a long range guy and he discusses other options here: https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/auxiliary-fuel-supply/

I have been tempted to use an old Dromedary water bag (very tough) for gas but am now glad I didn't because I want to use it for hydration fluid.

Arizona tea jugs are OK and you can get them in a pinch -- but if you have them in a saddlebag and fall against a rock they crack.

Above: JXG on 12 April 2018

Chainsaw racks

Material has been moved here

Maintenance

[*] Toolkit and spare parts to carry on rides

My tool kit with pix: http://bit.ly/2Fb94xM

What about a plug and wrench?

BTR: “I know some will chime in say I never carry a plug or wrench. Because I never foul a plug. It only happened to me three times in 50 years. One 2 stroke. Two 4 smokes. Where it happened the bikes would still be there.” post. More details post.

The Tusk holder is nice. Put some foam in to keep the plug from moving around. Be sure to check/set the plug gap. RMAM

CDI box? The ProCom is great for performance but known to fail: section with pic of spare CDI unit carry spot

Above: 14 March 2019 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2EZTsMq

(Coming soon) Surprise! Why post-ride inspections are important

Why inspect after every ride? Because catching a problem early gives you time to order parts and/or do repairs before the next ride.

To increase focus I use the Japanese “Shisa kanko” method, pointing and saying what I am pointing at.

SPLASH GUARD 17245-KPS-900 is on the Air box diagram.

Above: 14 March 2019 by JXG

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2008/CRF230F+A/parts.html

Spares

These are some parts that you may want to have on hand because they can be sudden show-stoppers. If you ride near home, it may not matter. I often drive several hours and spend several days in remote areas so it makes sense to have some spares along. --JXG

The basics: Complete tire repair, including tube backups for the Tubliss system.

Clutch cable can rust out or fray over time:

^^^ The bike got rained on while camping out a couple weeks before I discovered this. I suspect water went down the clutch cable and pooled up behind the rubber dust seal (not shown).

Rebuild kit: eBay

Countershaft seal can start leaking: 91216-KGH-901 OIL SEAL (20X34X7). For a buck, easy to have a spare: Partzilla

Shift shaft seal thread

Wheel bearings

Rear

1 ea. 96140-63030-10 BEARING (6303U) $9.00, RMAM $9.67

1 ea. 96140-62030-10 BEARING (6203U) $7.18, RMAM $11.12

1 ea. 91253-033-003 OIL SEAL (25X47X6.5) $4.21, RMAM $5.00

PZ $20.39 vs. $25.79 RMAM

Front

2 ea. 96140-62020-10 BEARING (6202U) $7.42, RMAM $8.82

1 ea. 91254-KA3-831 DUST SEAL (22X50X5) $6.29, RMAM $7.47

1 ea. 90755-229-003 OIL SEAL (21X37X7) $3.56, RMAM $4.24

TOTAL PZ $24.69 vs. $29.35 RMAM

Battery is essential if you do trail riding where bump starting is not really an option. I had one go out when riding near home. Then I bought a spare for my AJP that also fits the CRF.

Note: I was talking to a watercraft rental guy. He remarked that small lead-acid batteries give no warning of failure. One start, they work. The next start, they are dead. This is exactly what happened to me.

So I keep a spare on the BatteryMINDer Charger/Maintainer/Desulfater (Amazon) and take it along in my vehicle on extended trips. (If your battery is getting old, the load testers at auto supply stores do work on motorcycle batteries.)

Above: JXG on 15 September 2017

Loose shift lever?

The shifter is threaded and tightened with a bolt. It is a good idea to put a locknut on the end of this bolt that goes through the shifter and sticks out the top side. See https://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fmods.htm#footpegs. Note the bolt takes 8 mm, the nut 10 mm.

If your shifter is still loose even with the bolt very tight, this worked for me.

Remove the shifter and crunch the end closed in a high-quality vise. If you use a Chinese vise, this may destroy the threads of the vise! You could also try very large Vise Grips or hammering.

If the shifter closes up, it will now be very tight on the shift shaft. You will have to tap it on with a hammer.

To reduce impact on the shaft, hammer a screwdriver into the gap to expand the shifter while you tap it on.

My shifter doesn’t wiggle around anymore. However... I do need a gear puller to remove it now! Although the screwdriver wedge may be enough. i will try that next time.

Above 2 December; 12 October 2018 by JXG

Running hot: Why use synthetic oil

“My experience with fenders that block air flow to engine is different but maybe it is the terrain. I have Vapors on most of my bikes and while riding one with a large watercooled type of fender on a long steep climb in the mountains I saw cylinder head temps at the spark plug of over 400 degrees.” post

“I also have a Vapor and temperatures at the plug can get very high when riding in the summer on slow technical trails, even with the mild stock compression ratio. I have seen temperatures over 350 and, at times, close to 375 under severe conditions.” post

The reports above argue for running synthetic oil: “The upper limit for most mineral-based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher (some as much as 700 degrees F).” page

Temperature gauge Amazon

Oil

Refill capacity after draining: 1.1 US Qt = 1 US Qt + 3.2 US oz

API: SG

JASO: MA. Don’t forget, you need a JASO oil approved for engine, clutch, and transmission.

Weight: 10W-30, or 10W-40 which has a temperature range that goes higher to over 100F (Owners Manual, p. 60; Service Manual, p. 3-12)

BTR email: Mexico, temperatures seldom low: For his modified bike, Valvoline 20W-50 MC oil synthetic. On his fleet bikes without engine mods, 20W-40 Shell Rotella diesel oil. For these bikes he changes oil after every 4 day tour.

How tough is modern oil? https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a24676402/old-motor-oil/

What is a reasonable oil change interval? I did a Blackstone Labs analysis and concluded that 30 hrs, using top-quality synthetic oil, is a good interval: JXG

[*] Compression Testing to monitor engine health

INNOVA 3612 Compression Tester (Amazon) is only $18 (2019), screws in to the 230F spark plug hole (not push in), and doesn’t hit the 230F piston. Comes with 12mm (230F), 14mm and 18mm adapters. You can also get a set of 10, 12, 14 mm adapters: Amazon.

CRF230F Shop Manual p. 7-6 says

“Warm the engine to normal operating temperature
Stop the engine and remove the spark plug (page 38)
Install the compression gauge into the spark plug hole
Shift the transmission in neutral
Push the choke lever down fully (open)
Open the throttle all the way and crank the engine with the starter motor until the gauge reading stops rising

The maximum reading is usually reached within 4 - 7 seconds.

COMPRESSION PRESSURE for this 9.0:1 compression ratio engine: 1,294 kPa (13.2 kgf/cm2, 188 psi) at 450 rpm, p. 7-6
Low compression can be caused by:

blown cylinder head gasket
improper valve adjustment
valve leakage
worn piston ring or cylinder

31 July 2023

Link: https://bit.ly/456tBg1

Centrifugal oil filter cleaning?

The Honda XR and CRF families have had a centrifugal oil filter since the beginning. (Note the new CRF250F has a paper filter.) Apparently this is a very effective filter because it spins (centrifuges) the oil and basically traps particulates by acceleration: they pile up against the outer wall of the centrifuge and can’t get back into the oil.

The listed service interval is 1200 miles. Typically when the filter is checked not much is found.

One very experienced rider never touches his because his early-80’s XRs demonstrated there was no need to.

“Based on what I saw, I will clean out the gunk once a year or every 4,000 miles” states Ramz.

Others do it every time the side cover is off--which is not frequently but not never either. Various opinions in this thread. I decided to check mine.

What you need:

Right cover gasket
Centrifugal oil filter gasket
JIS screwdriver, I believe it is the JIS No. 2. See info under Tools.
If the screws have been damaged by using a non-JIS screwdriver, new screws are a good idea

The procedure in the service manual is clear. A couple of notes....

Remove the right cover: see Service Manual, p. 9-5

I did not remove the brake, but pulled it out of the way with a tie-down.

Service Manual, p. 3-13

My screws had never been removed so they came out easily with the correct JIS screwdriver.

^^^ My filter had about 3 mm of crud in it. Notice also the serpentine channel in the case: this sends oil into the side case and thus to the center of the rotor.

As usual, most of the work was in removing the old gasket. The new gasket has a gray coating so maybe this is non-stick.

^^^ The rotor gasket is especially challenging to remove because it is too small for a razor blade. Luckily some large sections of mine pulled up when soaked in WD-40.

^^^ Oil flows through a channel in the side cover, then through a spring-loaded connector to the center of the rotor, then spins outward. From Service Manual, p. 4-2.

^^^ The oil gets to the center of the rotor through a small channel in the side cover. After you remove the gasket and clean up the mess, make sure that this channel is not blocked and clean.

Reinstall the right cover: see Service Manual, p. 9-15. There are no torque values given on p. 9-3 for the cover bolts. I give them about 12 Nm.

Conclusion. The filter had never been cleaned before and after probably 5000 miles (4400 ridden by me) was certainly nowhere near capacity. If you have the side cover off to work on the clutch, consider cleaning the centrifugal filter at that time.

Above: 11 January 2019 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2VGeszn

https://haroldbawlzangya.com/air-filter-test/

Air filters: Do the light test

Thread has various preferences https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1256892-air-filters-uni-vs-twinair/

Actual tests of air filters!

“Each filter was tested three times. After making adjustments after the first test, I think I had an effective and repeatable way of testing and comparing the filters.

The “light” test supported the actual filters in action. The UNI filter looked the most porous in front of a light, and the dust tests showed that it let the most fine particles through. The Twin Air looked better in front of the halogen lamp, but in the dust test, it still let an unacceptable amount of fine particles slip through.

Based on the light test, the Moose Racing filter looked like it would do the best out of the three. And the actual dust test supported that.

The UNI filter is going in the trash. I’ll keep the Twin Air, but use it only when conditions are muddy. And I’ll be buying another Moose Racing filter.

And before you say “I’m not putting anything Moose on my bike, especially an air filter”, Moose doesn’t make most of what they sell, they just re-brand products. The Moose air filters are actually made by DT-1. Now I just need to find some extra grommets used in the KX filters”

The simple light test seems to be a good indicator of how well the filter will filter. If the foam cells are large or have large spaces between them that allow direct light to pass through, then dirt can pass through as well. The UNI and Twin Air support this.

Small foam cells or tightly arranged foam cells that do not allow direct light through will due a better job of filtering small dirt/dust particles. The Moose and NoToil support this.”

This testing was done in 2013. It is possible filters have changed. So try it yourself.

Take a minute, put a strong light behind the UNI filter, and you will be amazed. As you move the light around, you will see bright spots where the light is coming directly through to your eye! So is dirt! What is to stop it?

It is hard to capture this with a photo but it is noticeable to the naked eye.

Moose filters are made in USA

https://www.mooseracing.com/category/10014

Moose Racing 1011-0832 fits all years of the CRF230F and CRF150F

UPDATE 5/2/21: Not finding this model now

Moose filter on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/273034301273

Moose Super Seal Filter Oil - 3610-0007

https://www.denniskirk.com/moose/super-seal-filter-oil-3610-0007.p304365.prd/304365.sku

Note: “Metal can keeps oil as fresh as possible” - this is interesting because the oil is volatile: it has something that evaporates (probably Stoddard solvent)

Moose update... so I got a Moose filter. And did the light test. And it seems very similar.

The Moose does have a closed-cell foam ring which is easy to grease

The center rubber ring would not fit over the 230F stem that sticks up from the filter basket. I had to use the ring from the UNI.

Other items

Avoid K&N for long-life. “The gauze filter passes more air by passing more dirt -- much more. Experience has shown that top end wear is increased, but more important and more insidious is bottom end wear because it is not expected and is more serious. Grit in the bottom end wears bearings. More subtly however, it also wears the cam chain. The worn chain results in retarded cam timing, which reduces cylinder compression. Lawsuits have been exerted against OEMs because they deny warranty benefit after determining the customer used a gauze air filter. Gauze filters are not beloved among the Big Four.”

“If you accept the product's premise, that of trading engine longevity for potentially a bit more performance, then great. If you are however looking for a filter that is the same as stock only washable, look elsewhere. That is not what the gauze filter is about, despite the manufacturer's claims. Instead, it is a race-day air filter that in its original context was and is a good product. But it never should have made prime time, because that has caused many to misunderstand and overvalue it.” https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/kn_filters.html

Not impressed with No Toil Filter Grease, which is used to seal the rim of the filter. It is so runny that it drips on the backfire screen and everything else. I actually threw it away.

BTR uses a pool skimmer sock as a prefilter in heavy dust Amazon

Cleaning: I have compared

Dish detergent in hot water
Acetone
Mineral spirits: Mineral spirits is far superior to the other two in removing oil and dirt

I use mineral spirits then dish detergent in hot water to finish up.

2022: When out on the road I have been using Simple Green in a few ounces of water with good results. I can dry this in my vehicle without solvent fumes.

Above: JXG on 24 August 2022; 29 November, 23 September and 25 February 2018

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2O5PwAm

Use a fuel filter to reduce carb problems

Running an in-line fuel filter is a good idea, especially if you fuel up under dusty conditions. One tiny speck of dirt in the carb can cause big problems.

There is a filter in the petcock. Good but not enough. Fine silt collects in the fuel bowl. An inline filter will further reduce and possibly eliminate this.

There are lots of trash fuel filters on Amazon. Some of them rattle when shaken: the sintered bronze element is loose which means your fuel is not filtered.

Because K&N has a brand name to protect, their filters are good if overpriced: Amazon.

Don’t use a paper element filter with a gravity fuel feed. “The filters used on engines without fuel pumps filter to 75 microns or more where engines that have a fuel pump can tolerate filters as low as 40 microns. Using a filter for an engine with a fuel pump in an engine without a fuel pump will cause fuel delivery issues.” post

Above: 10 November 2018 by JXG

Spark plug

NGK Standard Series Spark Plugs DPR8EA
Gap 0.036 inch or 0.9 mm

No aluminum cap on top of the plug; if there is one, remove it

12 mm thread

11/16-inch or 18mm wrench

Be sure to blow dust out of the “plug well” before unscrewing the plug

What about an iridium plug for increased resistance to fouling?

“Capacitive discharge and fine wire plugs are the best combo for fouling resistance.... CDI [which is on all modern bikes including the 230F] has a much faster "rise time" to peak voltage... Less time for charge to bleed off before it reaches enough voltage to initiate spark... And the finer the wire, the less voltage needed to initiate a spark...” -- Mixxer post

Should you carry a spare plug?

“12 years old to 67 years riding dirt bikes. Only 3 bad plugs while out in the middle of nowhere. If I did not have plug wrench and spare plug bikes would still be there.” - BTR post

Valve adjustment

The specified service interval is 600 miles. If a tappet is too loose, you may hear a slight tap. Some bikes like the AJP won’t start when the intake tappet gets too tight but this does not seem to be a problem on the CRF.

What you need:

BikeMaster Valve Clearance Adjustable Wrenches are almost essential: 10 mm nut, 3 mm square tappet: Amazon. These really are a pleasure to use.

Feeler gauge: Both valves are 0.01 mm or 0.004 inches. The Motion Pro Tappet Feeler Gauge is handy but not essential: RMAM. You can put a bend in straight gauges.

The procedure in the service manual is clear. A couple of notes....

Service Manual, p. 3-10

^^^ Contraption… I like to use Vise Grips on the socket to more precisely control the crankshaft position. A tie-down can be used to hold the Vise Grips. Avoid backing up… if you go past the “T” mark go all the way around again.

TDC: “This position can be obtained by confirming that there is slack in the rocker arm”

In other words, at least one tappet should be loose. If neither tappet it loose, either you are on the exhaust stroke or the valves are badly out of adjustment. Turn the crankshaft around again until one or both tappets are loose at T. If neither tappet ever gets loose you will have to figure out the compression stroke by looking in the spark plug hole or something.

^^^ BikeMaster 10 mm did not want to go on; I had to tap it gently. For the intake valve the inner adjuster must be installed first, because there is not enough clearance once the tool is in place.

There should be a proverbial “slight drag” on the feeler gauge. If you have not done this before, or it has been a while, you will wonder if the clearance is correct. Here is the check I do. The next size up should go in about halfway, very tight and the next size down should be loose.

My results. I had neglected to check the valves for a long time: 3700 miles! The exhaust was 0.004 so no change. The intake was tight, so I set it to 0.004. I will check again in 600 miles and see if I can go to 1200 miles. Note this is an uncorked bike with no engine mods.

Above: 13 January 2019 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2Rp70Kc

Spoke tightening

Stock spoke nipples take a 5.8 mm spoke wrench

The Tusk kit gets good reviews: RMAM

As you look down the spoke towards the rim, turn nipple counterclockwise to tighten. The nipple is a nut and the spoke is a screw, so this is clockwise onto the spoke.

If running Tubliss: “Deflate the HIGH pressure tube when adjusting spokes.” FAQ

What is the tightening pattern?

“Dear Mr. Know-It-All,

After reading your suggestions regarding spoke tuning on page 116 of the March 2017 issue, I just had to respond. I've worked on motorcycles for 50-plus years and have tightened quite a few spokes, especially at a Honda dealer from 1974-1984.

Customers often brought their dirt bikes in for service with wheels that had very loose spokes, as I'm sure customers still do. I currently tighten spoke nipples the same way on my 2014 KTM EXC 500 as I did on my 1974 Honda 250 Elsinore.

1. There are nine sets of four spokes on most every dirt bike I've ever worked on.

2. To begin with, if the wheel has any spoke that is severely loose (and the rim is not bent), I literally finger tighten the nipples just to snug them up. And, in general, never tighten any spoke more than one turn at a time.

3. Starting at the valve stem (or any other reference point), tighten the first set of four spokes.

-Then, skip two sets of four spokes.

-You will now be at the fourth set of spokes. Tighten, skip two sets, tighten, skip two sets, etc.

4. Eventually, you'll come around to that first set of spokes againn at the valve core.

So, move to the second set of spokes. Tighten, skip two sets, tighten, skip two sets, etc. Eventually, you will come around to the second set of spokes again.

So, move to the third set of spokes. Tighten, skip two sets, tighten,

skip two sets, etc. Doing this cycle two or three times has always worked for me without ever causing a wheel-alignment problem.

Also, I'm generally a believer in using a torque wrench, but when it comes

to dirt bike wheel spokes, I always use sound pitch for the final torque adjustment.

The real trick here is to tighten one set of four spokes, then skip two sets, tighten, and just keep working your way around. You really should have known! -- Drew Richmond, Dirt Bike Magazine, November 2017.

Cables

The pull cable is the top one (I think) and runs to the front of the bike as below:

The MotionPro lubricator is expensive but it will fit over large cable ends like the top ends of the CRF throttle cable. It still leaks. Wrap a rubber glove or rag around the opening very tightly.

Brakes

BTR: “I like Honda OEM pads best. EBC is OK also.” - post

Brake pad pin bolt is highly recommended and inexpensive post

Rear suspension linkage greasing and seals

BTR: “We grease with boat trailer marine grease. Every bike new or used before we ride it. Also fill all cavities in center of swing arm so no place for water to park. On steering bearings we put thick line of grease above bearings in frame head. When you buy a new Honda there is very little grease on bearings. All the new Yamaha's we have bought have more grease than Hondas. No matter we take them apart and re-grease. If you need steering head bearings think twice about All Balls Bearings and other Mickey Mouse brands. Less than one year the bearing races have dents.” “I use OEM HONDA, they are so cheap.” - post

First up: Why you need to do it, the mineral spirits and acetone cleaning process, moly grease, grease compatibility, etc. see the AJP Shop Notebook.

Main thing... use the right grease

“SuperTech Moly-Lithium Grease. Honda notes in their CRF250X and CRF250R Service Manuals to lubricate the swingarm and shock linkage pivot bearings (along with related seals and bushings) with multi-purpose grease NLGI No. 2 with molybdenum disulfide additive (more than 3% MoS2).

I often read about and hear from others who think Bel-Ray Waterproof or some equivalent is great for suspension. Honda thinks otherwise. The essential point to be made here is that grease containing MoS2 protects against the high loads in shock and swingarm pivot bearings better than other types of grease. Bel-Ray (and any other waterproof bearing grease) is excellent for steering bearings and dust seals.” http://www.rickramsey.net/Chemicals.htm (Bold added)

SuperTech is available at WM, but there is some debate over how much moly is in it currently.

I used this moly grease: Jet-Lube 33050 #202 Moly-Lith Grease Amazon. This is a very dark grease with a metallic sheen to it. How much moly? 1 to 5%, it is a trade secret per the MSDS

Some items that are helpful for this work:

Seal puller like HF
Bottle brushes for cleaning out needle bearings: HF or Amazon
22 mm socket for swingarm nut
Especially if you use a digital torque meter, a breaker bar for the 88 Nm swingarm nut and the 108 Nm rear axle any time you work on that: 3/4 by 24 inch galvanized pipe fits over most socket wrench handles and works well

2016

This 2008 bike has unknown mileage, but was not ridden a lot before I got it. Since then I have put 1000 miles and 120 hours on it. I have never submerged the linkage and given the bike came from northern NM and the Durango area it is possible it has never been in water. I would guess nobody ever touched these components before.

Note the swingarm can be removed without disconnecting the top of the shock. This saves removing the airbox and battery.

There is no particular disassembly sequence and the parts are unique.

The washer on the rear brake shaft does block removal of the front yoke bolt. Only the washer needs to be removed, although you might as well pull out the brake pedal shaft and grease it too:

Note there are rubber seals inside the brake mount.

Linkage parts: See Reassembly section for wrench sizes. The yoke is known as the “Shock link” and the triangular structure is known as the “shock arm.”

Grease seals protect the needle bearings from dirt and water:

Seal puller makes seal removal easy. Work your way around the seal at about 4 places opposite each other:	With the seal out you can now clean and regrease the needle bearings:

Linkage parts after cleaning with mineral spirits and acetone:

Seal Parts Information - 2017 to 2023

Linkage seals:

Note: Honda OEMs do not have any garter springs. All AVX have garter springs except as noted.

2 ea. #18 = DUST SEAL (20X26X4.5) (ARAI)

Part# 91254-KS6-003 (Honda Code 2159713)

Honda Partzilla

2017: $6.29
2022: $8.63
2023: same

AVX 20x26x5:

Note 1: AVX are 5 mm thickness instead of 4.5 Honda; I did not see any problem from the extra 0.5 mm.
Note 2: In 2023, AVX lists the 20x26x5 as having a garter spring. This might be an error. The 2018 items I received do NOT have garter springs.

2017: $1.80
2022: $7.87
2023: $8.26

6 ea. #19 = DUST SEAL (17X24X5) (ARAI)

Part# 91262-KV3-831

Honda Partzilla

2017: $4.41
2022: $6.04
2023: same

AVX 17X24X5

2017: $1.62
2022: $6.56
2023: $6.88

* Honda OEM (in this case ARAI) is always safest, but the AVX seals may work: see the 2018 section below.

“I think this type of duty, a grease seal which is not under pressure, can be just as easily accomplished with a cheaper seal as an OE one. The toughest abuse most of these seals probably see is from a pressure washer.” - MetricMuscle post https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1240269-dust-seal-substitutes/?do=findComment&comment=13902629

Note AVX does have a First Class Mail shipping option which is cheapest.

Swingarm:

2 ea. #5 = CAP, DUST SEAL (NOK)

Part #131179005772

Mfg. #52144-356-005 (Honda Code 0337915)

This is a unique Honda part that combines a washer and a grease seal. No known substitutes, but they last a very long time.

Partzilla $10.45

Results: Everything was in good shape with adequate grease in all the bearings. As you can see in the photo above, the seals were doing a good job keeping out dirt. I found one of the yoke seals had a small separation of rubber and this was replaced.

For my riding, I am thinking I will probably do this service about every 200 hours, more often if I submerge the linkage.

Cleaning (Added in 2023)

Solvents are not good for people. Work in a well-ventilated area and wear a cartridge respirator. Exposure adds up. Cancer and other things are not fun.

To clean the bearings, this time I did total submersion in a large can. Much easier and less solvent spraying around because the bottle brush can be kept submerged:

Medicom “Vulcan” nitrile gloves, which are thick, don’t pass mineral spirits

I cleaned out the grooves behind the lips with a piece of wire and a shop towel to make a very small swab. One of the garter springs came partway out so I pulled it all the way out and gave that one a deep clean. The garter spring went back in pretty easily, but I did not clean any of the seven others like this. I doubt it matters.

I always let the mineral spirits settle out in a jug and reuse them, so the deeper bath this time was not wasteful

As a final step, I wash the mineral spirits out of the bearings with acetone. Like the mineral spirits, I let the acetone settle out and reuse it.

Reassembly

Swingarm

Make sure the drive chain slider is over the tab that sticks out of the swingarm (Service Manual, p. 13-22). This will assure proper alignment of the chain.

Don’t forget to install the collar inside the bearings, with lots of grease

Fill the “CAP, DUST SEAL”s on the swingarm ends with plenty of grease to keep contaminants out

The swingarm itself is 17 mm box x 22 mm socket torqued to 88 Nm.

Linkage

The linkage bolts go in this order. Except for #3, they should go in from the left side for better locknut access with the torque wrench on the right side. Note the “KPS” side of the triangle goes on the LEFT side of the bike.

Shock arm (triangle) to swingarm: 17 mm box x 19 mm socket = 78 Nm

This is the large diameter one. You may want to wait to torque it until the whole linkage is put together. But don’t forget.
I have to use a breaker bar: 3/4 by 24 inch galvanized pipe

Monoshock to triangle: 14 mm box x 17 mm socket = 44 Nm

Move the swingarm as needed for alignment
Torque this now, it will be blocked by the yoke

Yoke to frame: 17 mm socket x 14 mm box

Lift the swingarm up for clearance to get the yoke in
This bolt, the longest, has to go in from the RIGHT side as shown in the Honda parts diagram above. The illustrations on Service Manual p. 13-19 and 13-20 are impossible because the left side is blocked by the kickstand mount and the bolt is too long.
No torque is specified, but this bolt is the same size as the 44 Nm bolts above.
You can get a 17 mm 3/8-in socket in from the left side but you probably can’t fit a torque wrench. (See 2023 update below.) Make it tight.

Yoke to triangle: 14 mm x 18 mm socket = 44 Nm

Move the swingarm up and down slightly for alignment

Re-check that all nuts were torqued, including the big 78 Nm one.

2023 update on 3d: I am a digital torque meter guy but have a HF 1/4-inch inch-lbs mechanical wrench. It might fit with a 17 mm 1/4-inch socket but these are rare. With an upsizing adapter, there is not enough space. The other problem is 44 Nm is 390 inch-lbs, and the wrench only goes up to 200 inch-lbs.

September 2017 linkage service: Honda seals damaged, new Honda seals installed

I had planned to go to 200 hours, but the rear suspension started squeaking in a long descent in heavy rocks. It was 91 hours and about 900 miles since I greased the bearings. Total mileage and hours unknown.

Once I got the bike up on the lift I discovered there was a pine cone jammed into the linkage area. Pine cones have rosin. Rosin squeaks. I removed the pine cone with great difficulty and bounced the rear end. Still squeaking.

Then I decided to pressure wash the bike, taking the usual care to avoid blasting water into bearings. It stopped squeaking, possibly because the gravel between the swingarm and rear case was gone. But I decided to go ahead and service the suspension.

Everything looked OK. No dirt or water had gotten past the seals and the grease still looked good. But there was some seal damage:

Triangle or “shock arm” consists of 3 bearing sets:

1. Long, the wishbone connector and most exposed: big chip out of lip:

2. Short small diameter, the shock eye: dimple in lip:

3. Short large, the swingarm connection: slightly bent lip

Yoke front, most protected: No lip damage

I decided to purchase a complete set of Honda seals and replace them all.

My interval is 200 hrs, let’s see if I make it this time. Next time I will try AVX seals as listed above.

Above: 12 September 2017 by JXG

January 2019 linkage and swingarm service: Honda seals damaged again, AVX seals installed

January 2019: The bike has had 2420 mi and 223 hrs moving since last service and seal replacement in 2017.

Here is what I found. Triangle or “shock arm” consists of 3 bearing sets, with the following seal damage noted:

1. Longest: the yoke connector and most exposed: chip out again, right side

2. Short small diameter, the shock eye: large strip out, left side

3. Short large, the swingarm connection: no damage

Yoke front, most protected: Large chunk out, right side

I serviced the swingarm bearings this time. Those seals, which are Honda unique, are still in good condition.

There was no evidence of bearing contamination anywhere and the bearings are all in good shape. The Jet-Lube 33050 #202 Moly-Lith Grease continues to work very well.

This time I used AVX seals, exactly as listed above. We’ll see how they hold up.

Thread: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1240269-dust-seal-substitutes/?tab=comments#comment-13901581

2023 linkage service: AVX reuse? AVX new? Honda?

Again, there was no evidence of bearing contamination anywhere and the bearings were all in good shape. The Jet-Lube 33050 #202 Moly-Lith Grease continues to work very well.

When I began cleaning it, I noticed the large seal on the KPS side of the triangle was pushed in slightly. When I look back at the pix of first removal, it wasn’t:

Maybe I moved it with the pin. Anyway, it seemed to be in good condition.

The AVX are 5 mm thickness instead of 4.5 Honda; I did not see any effect from the extra 0.5 mm.

Recall the two 2018 AVX TC17x24x5 seals do NOT have garter springs; all the other AVX seals I got in 2018 have garter springs.

Here is what they look like. Yoke before deep groove cleaning:

Triangle, “KPS” side: Note the 2018 AVX TC17x24x5 seal, shown at the bottom, does not have a garter spring:

The other side of the triangle was so identical I am not including a photo here.

AVX says their bearings are made from Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR). This is to be expected at this price point. There is probably some aging factor, so I added installed months below.

Here is the history:

December 2016: 96 mos since manufacture, this 2008 bike has unknown mileage, but was not ridden a lot before I got it. Since then I have put 1000 miles and 120 hours on it. I have never submerged the linkage and given the bike came from northern NM and the Durango area it is possible it has never been in water. I would guess nobody ever touched these components before. I did linkage and swingarm grease only, no seal damage noted, some pix, no detailed notes
September 2017: 8 mos, 900 mi, 90 hrs moving on Honda original seals since 2016 service

1 chip, 1 dimple, 1 bend

January 2019: 15 mos, 2400 mi, 223 hrs moving on new Honda seals

1 chip, 1 strip, 1 chunk

June 2023: 53 mos, 2300 mi, 244 hrs moving on AVX seals, 6 of 8 with garter springs

No chips or other damage visible under magnification

While this is not extensive or truly comparable data, the AVX seals have done well. There is no damage or bearing contamination, including the most exposed yoke / wishbone bearings that hang down low with exposure to mud, water, logs, and rocks. Did the garter springs help? Hard to say, since the two seals without garters are good too.

Now what?

Above: 13, 12 June 2023, 9 January 2019, 12 September 2017 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2TGDjRO

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/xrl-owners-sign-in.114834/page-4032

What about grease zerks?

“it is a crime they don't put grease fittings on them my ‘93 XR 650L has fittings and the bushings are like new 20 years later but the later year bikes they stopped installing them” - post

JXG question: Were bushings more compatible with grease fittings than needle bearings? Easier to channel the grease where it needed to go? The whole point of needle bearings is more surface area. It seems like this would produce a lot more resistance to the movement of grease under pressure.

“I have an extra Zerk fitting I bought for the swing arm. Can't remember why bought it now. Anyway, what drill bit and tap(tapered?) do I need to install a Zerk on the suspension arm?” “Can't hurt. Be sure the zerk is NPT. Some are 1/4"-28TPI. The OEM Honda zerk may be metric.”

(If you look at the assortments here, there are 6, 8, and 10 mm options. The nipple itself is standard. These seem to be straight threads, not pipe threads (NPT). So riders may have the taps on hand, while NPT is a little more rare.)

“Zerks may work, but you will have to pump enough grease in there to force it into the bushings and I will bet that it will push thru the seals before getting into the bushings...ymmv”

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-xr400-thread.302523/page-370#post-23593004

“If the grease does not get to the sealed area of the bearings then nothing has been achieved. It is also necessary for the internal sleeve to be drilled or grooved in a manner as to allow the grease to pass thru to the bearings. A good while back a kit was sold for some bikes but they are no longer available.”

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-xr400-thread.302523/page-370#post-23593004

Detailed KLR installation by Wattman shows what is involved. He uses vent holes to get the grease to cross from one side of a single bearing to the other side.

“You can skip drilling vent holes entirely if you don't mind having the grease come out the seal with the least resistance.But my concern is it will come out on a side where grease didn’t cross the bearing all the way, so the vent holes make for low resistance, I always get flow where I want it, and in two vent hole locations, get flow out of each vent hole when greasing!” http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/ZerkInstallation.pdf

If you have an uncontrollable urge to add zerks, see Installation on an AJP which is a bit similar to a CRF230F. However there is almost no space between the bearings on the CRF. I’m really not sure there is sufficient space for grease flow in these compact assemblies.

Above: 11, 3 January 2017 by JXG

Steering stem how-to

BTR: “If you need steering head bearings think twice about All Balls Bearings and other Mickey Mouse brands. Less than one year the bearing races have dents.” “I use OEM HONDA, they are so cheap.” “On steering bearings we put thick line of grease above bearings in frame head.” - post

Deluxe approach:

Steering stem nut 30mm, low profile box wrench RMAM*
Steering stem spanner wrench Tusk at RMAM, $13*
Race remover: Park tool RMAM $30, 1-1/2 and larger size
Bottom bearing removal: For the cheap chisel method, a set of three is good: Dasco is made in USA Amazon, $12
Steering stem bearing installer Tusk at RMAM, $50
Steering Stem Bearing Press Tusk at RMAM, $125

Use All-thread and large washers instead???

Total... $230

Budget approach: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvgIRuRHSrQ

Steering stem nut 30mm, low profile box wrench RMAM*
The spanner (above) is useful: $13*
Removing race with a drift
Driving top race in with old race and hammer here
Driving bottom race in without $125 tool here
Removing stem bearing by “butchering” not chisels here

* If you get a socket instead, then torque can be set exactly. Also the steering stem nut takes a lot of torque and it is hard to do this with the box wrench.

Delboy is a skilled bloke. If you like to buy tools, buy the tools. I did the budget method for my CRF150RB fork swap and it works. You just have to be patient and take your time. Before removing the races, study and maybe measure how deep they are in the frame. If a new race starts going crooked, don’t panic. Tap more on the opposite side and it should straighten out. If it doesn’t, tap it out carefully and try again.

The bottom race is challenging. It’s a lot of hammering in an awkward position. I will try 1/2-inch all-thread next time as a homemade driver to pull the race into position.

Above: 28 June 2017 by JXG

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1247496-manual-timing-chain-tensioner-stuff/?do=findComment&comment=14024290

Cam chain tensioner: Replace with Tokyo Mods?

The coiled “watch spring” ends can break off:

Adjustment:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1247496-manual-timing-chain-tensioner-stuff/?do=findComment&comment=14041010

Adnohguy:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1247496-manual-timing-chain-tensioner-stuff/?do=findComment&comment=14270334

Woodsryder has an interesting opinion

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1247496-manual-timing-chain-tensioner-stuff/?do=findComment&comment=14270401

Clutch

BTR: “Do NOT USE EBC CLUTCH or CLUTCH SPRINGS, pure junk.” - post

Fork seal and bushing replacement

Leaking? This may be a quick alternative if there is dirt in the seals http://sealmate.net/. Video.

What about bushings? The bushings take a lot of punishment. If you have acquired an older bike and/or have a lot of hours on it, definitely inspect the bushings. The XR400R Forks section has an extensive discussion of bushing inspection and replacement that applies to any forks.

BTR: “Use only OEM seals. Last me 7 to 12 years or more. Aftermarket seals last months -- no good.”

Bruce Triplett recommends OEM seals post

Flushing out the forks: see Fork rebuild

Tips. “I used a chunk of 1-1/2" schedule 80 PVC pipe to install the seals. This is harder to find than schedule 40 (thin wall). McMaster Carr carries it. I used a thin wide putty knife to pry out the dust seal and a little heat around the lower where the seal seats prior to using the upper as a slide hammer to pull out the seal.” post

The service manual is helpful also.

A couple photos. Prying the dust seal off. The oil seal with its retaining clip is underneath this:

The Tusk adjustable seal driver is reasonably priced and well worth it:

Break-in. Note that both seals and bushings take awhile to break in. The forks will be stiff during this period. Sag measurements will be difficult and probably inaccurate during this period.

Above: 19 March 2019; 30 April 2017 by JXG

Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2FnNFBB

Seal Savers for USD forks, not stock forks

Replacing fork seals is a lot of work and not cheap either. So protection is good. What kind?

For stock or other conventional forks like XR400R, it is best to stick with fork boots. Without the wrap-around guards of USD forks, Seal Saver and similar sleeves provide minimal protection if you fall on rocks, brush against something, the bike falls over, etc.

You can get a gouge in your fork stanchion which is not good. They also hold dust and grit against the stanchion: see photo below.

Also fork boots require no mandatory washing if you do ride in dusty conditions, because they don't rub against the stanchions.

OEM or aftermarket boots? It would be unusual for Honda stock boots to tear in three rides post. Honda would get a lot of warranty claims. In general, I find it best to stick with Honda OEM unless there is a compelling reason to go aftermarket.

For USD forks that have been installed on the 230F, Seal Savers are an option to reduce the amount of dirt getting into the seals.

For convenience, “Zip-On’s can be installed in a matter of minutes and do not require removing your forks from the triple clamps.” ttps://www.sealsavers.com/

The zippers are not the highest quality. Spraying on some Teflon lubricant can help. Before long they will fail and have to be broken open. At this point the velcro can be used alone.

Below is a Seal Saver from a CRF150RB fork (USD) installed on a 230F. Dust can build up so it is a good idea to wash them regularly if you ride in this type of environment:

^ Those streaks at the top are grinding the fork stanchions... right in the sealing zone where you don’t want any damage.

For conventional forks, “Shock Sox are a bad deal. Use fork boots, the only way to go. XR400 fork on my 230F has over 27,000 miles on seals - BTR post

Above: 19 March 2022; 23 February 2022; 19 March; 12 February; 15, 14 January 2019; 19 January 2018; 10 June 2017 by JXG with 2018 comments by BTR and feedback from this thread.

Link: http://bit.ly/2VLHdum

http://www.thumpertalk.com/wiki/_/when-do-you-change-your-chain-r368

Chain types, master links, and lubrication

Chain types: Unsealed or O-ring or X-ring

“There are three principal types of roller drive chains: non O Ring, O Ring and X Ring. The non O Ring types date back to the beginning of time and are still used extensively today. They are strong, light, cheap to produce and relatively friction free but they do not have internal lubrication, so they tend to wear out more quickly. These days they tend to be used most on smaller capacity and Moto X bikes.

As motorcycle technology and power output has increased, chain design has had to improve with it. So for bigger and more powerful bikes, non O Ring chains have been very much superseded by O Ring and X Ring chains.

These position a sealing ring between the inner and outer chain plates. Before riveting in the factory, the internal parts of the chain are filled with chain grease by vacuum. The sealing rings then have two purposes: to keep the internal lubrication in, and to keep the dirt out, thus vastly improving the durability of the chain. O rings were available first and the ring is literally O shaped. As the two plates push on either side of the O ring, it distorts to have two flat sides to its shape. This is great for sealing and great for most uses but it creates considerable friction which saps the bike’s power.

That in turn led to the development of X Ring chains. X describes the shape of the ring. Instead of having an O shape it now has an X shape. This means that when pressed between the chain plates, it no longer has a flattened O ring shape but instead has two smaller faces touching either plate in an X shape. This gives you the same great sealing and durability but now with very low friction. The perfect chain!” page

Unsealed

(+) Lower friction puts more power to the wheel

(+) Master link easier to install because no rings to compress

(-/+) Shorter life but cheaper

O-ring / X-ring

(+) More friction reduces power to the wheel?

On modern designs maybe not? post by Dwight Rudder
X-ring is much lower friction than O-ring page

(-/+) Longer life but more expensive

(-) Need to compress rings, so master link requires chain press tool. And for clip-style, master link pliers are good too.

^^^ Courtesy of Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X-ring_chain

“Lifecycle costs of a ring chain is much less than non ring: I use DID 520VT2 chains and I dry film lube them after every washing. Without wet lube to attract dirt the sprockets last longer. My longest running chain on my most used bike is now 8 years old and sprockets are beginning to look a little worn, rear is aluminum and front OEM steel. So I paid half again as much for the VT2 chain but avoided the cost of a new non ring chain each year (I ride in the wet and muddy PNW). I also avoided a lot of sprocket replacements. ...

Maintenance on a ring chain is minimal with washing and spray lubing with dry film lube. Because the wear on chain and sprockets is so low chain adjustment is almost non existent. I do check once a year and I have the XR snail adjusters marked for quick alignment if I need to pull the wheel.

Problems with the VT2 chain is the side plate on the clip master link is a very tight fit so for long rides I carry a MSR Mini press (and spare clip link) for trail side maintenance. Have said that, maybe I travel over-prepared as I've only needed to split the chain once on the trail in the last ten years. And in more than 40 years of riding I've only needed to split a chain trail side a few times.” - Chuck post

Master Links: Riveted or Clip for trail riding?

Riveted

(+) Extremely reliable: “You’ll never lose a chain through the cases from a missing clip” post

(-) Difficult to remove and reinstall on the trail; need chain breaker and rivet tool?

“If you remove it generally you put a new one in or on the trail maybe a clip link until you get back” post -- so carry a breaker and a clip link

Clip

(+) Easy to remove and reinstall on the trail for tire repair, etc.: “I have needed to remove the chain on the trail to remove debris. Fir branches can be very gnarly.” post

(-) Less reliable

(--) Possibility of installing incorrectly which is why some bikes come with riveted chains

Side by side comparison. “One of my 230s has clip master link, one is riveted. To properly install the riveted one, you need to use micrometer, etc., and I found it to be a tedious, hairy process. The original equipment riveted-master-link chain I replaced like-for-like had the master installed too tight from the factory, and it was kinking/binding there and damaging the chain and prolly the sprockets somewhat too.... My proper-install job of the riveted master is working fine so far, without binding/kinking or fast wear, but so is the clip-master chain on the other bike....” post

Why do clips come off? “Chain guide always gets bent in a little, it just does. Clip style pins are wider than the rest of the chain. So they wear away and wear into the chain block. Eventually with your block rubbing and polishing the clip, it gets thin and loose. One day when you’re backing the bike up the open end of the clip snags in the block and throws the clip. Hopefully the plate was pressed on and stays till you notice and fix it. The clip will survive better if installed on the inner bike side, more clearance from rubbing there (because the guide is pushed that way). - post

Clip master links do wear out. “I go through 2 to 4 new clip type master links per chain. ... The side of clip and pins that hold it get ground down. The clip comes off.” post

^^^ Broken master link clip noticed just by luck!

Chain lube

Grinding compound? Maxima Chain Wax: "I used it on a bicycle chain for an entire commuting season and at first I thought it was great but after breaking the bike down for it's winter tune up I see that there is a lot more wear on the chain, cassette and derailleur pulleys than with other lubricants I've used. This lubricant is very sticky and sand and debris end up practically glued to everything that's been sprayed." - Amazon review

^^^ This is really interesting because the guy is actually doing a comparison.

Comparison video by a street rider. 0:28 Castrol, 1:45 Maxima, 2:39 DuPont. Couple of notes:

Castrol is the best of all three but more expensive, defective cans

Maxima Chain Wax not as good but cheaper than Castrol, easiest to use. Recommended for those who want to do maintenance less frequently.

Dupont is superior for keeping off dirt, and has less rolling resistance. But doesn't last very long, especially in wet conditions. Must let it dry for 30 mins at least. Cheapest of the three. Recommended for those who don't mind maintaining chain frequently.

What is in this stuff?

Maxima Chain Wax MSDS

Dupont MSDS

Oddly enough, Teflon is not mentioned explicitly.

Dupont Patent 5472625: “After application and evaporation of the solvent the composite dry lubricant exhibits good penetration and load bearing properties without the dirt-retaining character of greases. The undissolved particles of soap combine with dirt particles to break-down portions of the lubricant into a dry flaky dust which is sloughed off the mechanism.”

Above: 29, 28, 27, 26 October 2018 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2D9Delc

Chain wear measurement

Quickest check. “I never measure chains. Just grab the chain from the back of rear sprocket -- you can easily tell when it is too loose and doesn’t fit the sprocket teeth any longer. When it’s too loose I put on both new sprockets and a chain. I might put a new countershaft sprocket in-between every set of chain and sprockets.” - post

Quick check. “Lay a ruler up to the taut chain. All the pin centers should line up with 1/8th marks on the ruler, the more they stray off the more the chain has elongated from wear.” - post

What are wear limits?

Chains don’t stretch. Wear is in the rollers. Here are some limits:

15.09375 ÷ 15 inches =1.00625 = 0.625% page

12.6 ÷ 12.5 inches =1.008 = 0.8% video

Quick check too. “A carpenter's tape measure is quicker and better than using a caliper for measuring, because it averages measurement over a longer length of chain. 99% of dirt bikes use 5xx chain, which is exactly 5/8 inch pin-to-pin. Which means 24 links is 15.000 inches on a new chain.

Over 24 links, 1/8 inch 'growth' in length indicates 0.8% wear. That's a good limit to use as a guide for chain replacement. Put the bike on a stand with rear wheel off the ground, put it in gear, apply backwards rotation on the rear wheel to tension the top run of chain, measure as above.

Hint: Hook the tape at the front edge of an outside link, measure to the front edge of the 13th outside link back. Anything over 15 and 1/8 inch is bad.” - post

^^^ Photo courtesy of danfarson

“Change it when it's 2% longer than it was new. Assuming a 5/8" pitch chain (#520, 528, 530, 50, etc.), the length of ten full links pin to pin should be 6.25", 20 links, 12.5". Two percent over each of these would be 6.375" (6-3/8") and 12.75" (12-3/4").

JXG: 5 links, 3.125”, 2% is 0.0625, so 3.1875 is excessive

The chain must be drawn taut when measuring, which is easily accomplished by placing a piece of wood or a tool handle between the chain and sprocket and rolling it under the chain to tighten it.

Another very accurate means of measuring the chain is to use a typical 6-7" vernier caliper on a 10 link section. Measure from one roller surface to the 11th one, and measure several sections.

Compensating for the .400" roller diameter, the new length of the chain measured this way is 5.85", and 2% over is 6.0".

JXG: I get about 6-5/16 which is too long for my digital caliper. Also the measuring points would not fit down between the rollers to accurately measure the radius.

Once the chain is that much longer than spec, it starts chewing on the teeth of the sprockets. New sprockets can be installed without replacing the chain so long as it is 1% or less longer than new without any kind of problem.”

To clarify the above. Assuming a dimple in each pin, just measure pin to pin as shown below:

My chain analysis

On 4/7/15 I purchased a Primary Drive 520 ORH X-Ring Chain 520x110 for $57.

Next steps

I have a can of Dupont Chain Saver with Teflon. Based on the patent above I will give it a try.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

Thread: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1277275-measuring-chain-wear/?tab=comments#comment-14557983

Above: 29, 28, 27, 26 October 2018 by JXG

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1371441-screw-hole-on-chain-guide-broke/

Chain guide replacement or mod

Repairing the stock guide? - 2021

Reinforcing the stock chain guide

Post on breaking chain guide while riding in rocks. The front mounting hole broke completely after a while:

Other than that, the guide was in good shape so I did not want to buy a new OEM (52146-KPS-900) at close to $30 Partzilla and the Outlaw is reportedly junk post.

So I just took some aluminum sheet from an old project box and pop-riveted it into place:

Afterthought. BTR points out it is better for the aluminum sheet to extend over the whole guide.

UPDATE 2018. After 1650 miles and 180 hrs the mod above was pretty worn. Rock scrapes were evident and all four pop-rivets were out:

For the rebuild I decided to use the BTR design which covers the whole guide with aluminum: see below.

This aluminum is 1.7 mm or 0.065 inch thick (about 1/16-inch), which is the most I can cut with compound-leverage hand shears.

The only problem is it may be too strong, thus breaking instead of bending. We shall see.

UPDATE 2019: The guide has been working well for me. The only problem is the bolts loosen surprisingly quickly. They loosen despite using lock washers, nyloc nuts, and LocTite all at the same time. Be sure to check bolts frequently!

NEW 2019 OPTION ==> Tom Droze found this CNC chain guide: post. Amazon, $36. 2021: AnXin Amazon, $28

(Photo courtesy of Tom Droze)

Above: 3 May 2021; 9 February 2019; 15 October 2018; 25, 16 December; 4 September 2017 by JXG

Link: http://bit.ly/2kUEttY

Installing the tank and seat

The CRF230F seat is not exactly quick release. I reinstall mine just infrequently enough that I forget the little tricks. So I am going to write them down:

Slide on the tank, lining up the front mounting bolts
Install the front bolts loosely
Attach the rear bungie that holds down the tank
Slide the seat into the front connection while also making sure the middle tab goes under the metal loop and the rear tab goes into the rear slot: this is important! Three connection points.
Install the left and right rear seat bolts: 12 mm socket, collar, and 12 mm box wrench on the nut. Make sure they are tight.
Install left side panel....
Align the battery retaining strap and install the short 10 mm bolt at the bottom
Install the long 10 mm bolt at the top
Install the hex screw at lower rear
Install right side panel
Install the hex screw at lower rear
Tighten the front bolts
Connect the fuel line

Above: 1 December 2017 by JXG

Fuel and Storage

High octane? “As far as octane requirements, any pump gas will be just fine... The stock 230 is supremely low octane tolerant with its low cylinder fill and low compression.... Bulletproof...” - Mixxer post

What about high compression? BTR with his high compression engine and high temperatures always runs premium. He also runs premium in his stock engine CRF230Fs.

For extra lubrication of cylinder wall, rings, etc. run 2T oil at 200:1 post. 5 gallons = 640 oz / 200 = 3.2 oz oil. Ideally, run 2T oil specifically for air-cooled engines: not type BIA or TCW which are for water-cooled.

Or not? “Adding 2 cycle oil to the gasoline--I am not a big fan of that (there is Marvel Mystery Oil which may be "better" than two cycle oil). Tends to foul the spark plug and can cause the valves to stick (sort of a common problem in small engines it seems). Plus the oil can leave a film behind in the carburetor (again, small engines, small fuel passages, easy to clog)”. post

Don’t drain fuel for storage. Use stabilizer and leave everything full so that gaskets don’t dry out. This is contrary to most guidance. - BTR post

Above: 5 September 2017 and 15 Feb 2018 by JXG

How to be notified of updates to this document

To be notified when there is an update, you can create an alert at https://visualping.io/. Point it at the date at the top of the page. You will get an email when this date changes. Changedetection.com does not seem to work with Google Doc web pages.

How to document stuff in your shop

This Shop Notebook is remarkably easy to produce. You can use the same methods in your own shop or work area to keep track of what you do. You can also use a paper notebook instead or in addition to these methods. But digital has some advantages.

^^^ The method can be shown in one picture of my workbench. On the floor a Dell commercial-grade PC, off-lease* for a couple hundred on eBay. An old monitor sits on a high-tech and stylish stand: a concrete block.

Google Docs runs across all my PC’s and Android devices.

Photos taken with my Android phone or tablets automatically upload to Google Photos.

Often I simply do a screen capture (Print Screen button), drop this into Paint (Control-V to paste) and edit the photo.

Then I copy it to the clipboard and paste into my Google Doc.

If I want to add labels, I use PowerPoint or Visio since I have a cheap license. But Google Slides can be used too.

If I want to adjust exposure I use GIMP which is free: Color > Levels is great. Although lately I have started using the Google Photos adjustments more.

If you want to share with others, File > Publish to Web... And it just works. Automatically.

Often I am collaborating live through WhatsApp and FB. Of course, a Google Doc can be worked simultaneously by multiple people.

And that’s about it. If you are in the Apple ecosystem, they did it all first.

* Why commercial-grade Dells? There are a ton of them that are leased for a year or two and then end up on eBay. They just work and last forever. I like Optiplex 960’s with an SSD, 16 GB RAM preferable, and Win10/64.

Above: 3 November 2018

Link: http://bit.ly/39T5YvK