Heatsink Upgrade 2,5mm Hex Key
Phillips screwdriver
Tiny screwdriver or small pin
Before you start.
Unplug roaster from mains.
Remove Door Handle
It's a good idea to take a photo of the connectors before pulling them out.
Place the roaster on its back on a soft cloth, being careful not to scratch the outside of the Bullet.
Support the roaster on the side so that it does not rotate.
Tools you will need
3mm round head hex key,
2mm and
Unscrew 2X M4 and 1x M3 Screw Round Head screws on induction cover.
Remove Cover and unplug Cooling Box Connector
Unscrew 4x M4 Socket Head screws from Front Leg (Closest to front of roaster) and remove legs
Unscrew 2X M4 Socket Head screws from the back legs - middle screws, and loosen the 2x M4 outer screws.
Remove all white connectors on PCB near the fan. Be careful handling the wires as they are fragile.
Push induction module backwards towards back legs. Make sure the two black main cables are in the groove. Lift the front of the module upwards to remove module.
Replace module by placing the tap in in the back of the module into the slot.
Push module forward towards front legs making sure the 2 taps enter the 2 slots.
COIL:
Before installing the coil, you will need to unwind one turn at the end point, so that it looks like image below.
Install the two screw plates into the heatsink, and let the wires through the exit holes before mounting the coil on top.
Squeeze the coil together to get it into position.
PCB:
- Remove and disconnect fan assembly (4pcs M4 SHCS) screws.
- Remove Power connector from heatsink. (2pcs M3) screws
- Remove (3pcs M3x10 SHCS + shim) screws that hold the IGBTs and DIODE to the heatsink. Yellow markings on picture
(On roasters serial number 1-250 the screws holding the IGBT and DIODE are mounted from the coil side with a nut and washer on the opposite side. The coil will need to be removed to access these screws. Discard these screws nuts after disassembly.)
- Remove all screws (7pcs M3 philips) from the PCB side. Blue markings on picture
- Remove the the grounding standoff from PCB corner.
- Carefully remove PCB from heat-sink.
The yellow circles mark the screws that secures the hot components to the PCB. Remove and make sure to also remove all the spacers.
(The IGBTs and DIODE mounted to the heat-sink may stick slightly due to thermal pads and paste. The first IGBT (one closest to the coil feeds) also retains a temperature sensor PCB, please note it’s location. Leave the wire from this small PCB connected.)
- Gently lift off the PCB and discard the two yellow thermal pads
- Place new Thermal Pads on the the heatsink. Make sure that the 2 pads are aligned as in the photo. The pads need to cover the entire area of the IGBTs mounted on the heatsink.
- Place the new PCB back on top of the Heatsink. Aim the 3 holes in pic A (yellow) so that they go down onto the pads without moving them.
- First insert two screw loosely in each corner of the PCB, then loosely the 3 M4x10 screws in yellow circles.
- Make sure that the thermal monitor PCB is aligned with the IGBT. See pic below
- Tighten the 3 screws (yellow). The correct torque should be 110CNewton (1,1Newton) of force.
Before plugging in the Bullet, please check that the following is true.
Thermal Pads cover all of the IGBT
The PCB Temperature sensor is aligned with the IGBT
The Coil WIres and inlet connectors are tightened
Plug in all the connectors, and use a very small screwdriver to push all the connector pins into each connector.
The Fan only has 4 pin and should be mounted so that the red wire is closest to the edge of the connector
The legs have alignment pins that should enter the corresponding holes for easier assembly.
There are 2 main cables, A and B
A is 2 connectors of 8 pins each
B is 3 connectors: 4pin, 5pin, and 5pin with only 4 wires. The 5pin with only 4 wires should NOT be connected to anything.
The fan only has 4pins but is mounted in a 5 pin connector, please make sure that the red wire is at the edge of the connector.
