T3P3 Kossel Mini Kit Release 3
Chapter 13 - Effector Final Assembly
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
1301 Effector Assembly - parts needed
Hotend/fan/IR mount (black supplied)
(from 26 May 2016, with brass inserts)
40mm fan duct (black supplied)
Hot end PCB mount
Hot end wiring loom breakout PCB
40mm fans x 2
E3D V6 hot end assembled
Connector cable for height sensor board
M3 x 16 socket capscrews x 13
No 2 x ¼ pozi pan selftapping screws x 4
From 26 May 2016, rubber O-ring
1302 Assemble hot end components
Fit the print cooling fan to the duct using 2 M3 x 16 socket capscrews in the bottom holes only. The holes are pre-tapped M3 - be careful not to over-tighten and strip the plastic threads! Make sure the fan label is hidden on the downstream side of the assembly and the capscrew heads fit into the hex recesses on the fan.
Fit the IR probe to the hotend/fan/IR mount using 2 No2 x 1/4 self-tapping screws. The back of the PCB is mounted facing the hotend and on the hot end side of the mounting lugs. The board shown has been coated with a silicone compound for heat insulation, but tests have now shown this is not essential. Production boards will be supplied uncoated.
Fitted board shown from the outside.
Fit the second 40mm cooling fan to the hotend/fan/IR mount using M3 x 16 socket capscrews. The screwholes have been pre-tapped M3 - be careful not to overtighten! Once again ensure you have the fan the right way round, with the label on the inside.
Now fit the V6 hot end into its groove-mount. Make sure you have removed all “flash” from the groove-mount as instructed in Chapter 1. If this is not done, the hot end will not fit all the way in and the effector bolts will not line up with the tapped holes in the mount.
The shortest side of the heater block faces the IR board, with the heater and thermistor wires exiting on the opposite side to the fan.
Fit the print cooling fan duct to the hotend/fan/IR mount using 2 M3 x 16 socket capscrews in the 2 top mounting holes, observing precautions against overtightening.
Cut the 1.0m long PTFE tubing in half. Set the remaining 500mm length of PTFE tube aside for later use as a filament guide.
Using the 3mm drill bit in handle supplied with the kit, make a small chamfer in the end of the PTFE Bowden tube that will fit into the extruder (NOT the hot end!). This is to make it easier to load filament. If you find it difficult to do this with the drill bit you could cut the chamfer with the tip of the utility knife blade instead.
Trim the V6 end of the 500mm length of Bowden tube if necessary to ensure a clean square cut, and insert it into the V6 hot-end, pushing it all the way down as described in E3D’s V6 assembly instructions.
Now pull it out again - the pushfit collet will grip the tube and only allow it out 1.0 to 1.5mm.
Using tweezers, needle-nose pliers or anything similar, hold the collet in its pulled out position and push the tube in again.
The tube will now be pushed into the hot end as far as it can possibly go, and the collet will remain in the “out” position. As explained by E3D, “On bowden systems it is especially helpful to 'lock in' the PTFE tubing so that it cannot move around during retraction; this increases reliability, and gives much better retraction performance in general.”
The assembled hotend and attachments is now ready to be fitted to the effector, but first….
… fit the IR probe wiring, as it is easier to do this before the hot end is fitted. Make sure to fit it as shown with the blue wire on the left and red wire on the right.
Fit the hot end PCB mounting bracket to the effector with 3 M3 x 16 socket capscrews, so that it it is between the 2 diagonal arms from the Z-tower. The screws push through the effector and will be screwed into tapped holes in the hot end mount (brass inserts from 26 may 2016). Add 2 more M3 x 16 socket capscrews as shown. The front effector hole nearest the X-Y side of the printer is not used.
(From 26 May 2016) Insert rubber O-ring in the recess in the underside of the effector - shown here on an unassembled effector.
Feed the Bowden tube through the effector from below, aligning the hot end so that the print cooling fan is facing the X-Y side of the printer ….
….. guide the top of the V6 hot end into the hole in the bottom of the effector, align the M3 bolts with the pre-tapped holes in the hotend mount, and gradually tighten. As always, do not overtighten!
Fit the hot end wiring loom breakout PCB to its bracket as shown, using 2 No2x1/4 self-tapping screws.
The completed assembly is now ready for wiring.
WIRING LOOM BREAKOUT PCB V1
This version of the breakout PCB was supplied until September 2016.
If your PCB layout resembles the schematic layout shown here with the white 3-pin probe connector on the bottom of the PCB and has a large black 2-way screw terminal for the heater wires then plug in the wires from the hot end, fans and probe as shown on the right. To summarise:-
WIRING LOOM BREAKOUT PCB V2
Version 2 of the breakout PCB has been supplied from late September 2016. The main changes are:-
The picture of a bare PCB on the right shows the revised layout.
The schematic below it should help you to identify where to plug in the wires from the hot end, fans and probe, as follows:-
You should connect your print cooling fan to P7 on the breakout board if connecting to PWM Fan0 on the Duet V0.8.5.
Push the Bowden tube to one side and plug the IR probe lead onto header P6. It is polarised and can only fit one way, as shown.
Plug the hot end heater cartridge wires into the screw terminal block P2 on the board and tighten firmly. Then plug the thermistor onto the 2-pin header P3 directly below the heater terminals.
Plug the PWM print cooling fan onto P7 (or P4) and the hot-end cooling fan onto P5.
Finally, plug the other end of the Bowden tube into the pushfit connector on the extruder.
Now go on to the next Chapter.