New Hampshire 4000 Footers
Write-up of climbing Mt Isolation and the completion of all the New Hampshire White Mountain 4000 foot peaks.
I had saved this jewel of the Montalban Ridge for last in my quest to climb all the White Mountain peaks over 4000’ feet. There are 48 peaks on the New Hampshire 4000’ footer list and I wanted to pick someplace special for my last peak. Lots of people would want to pick the highest, hardest, or most popular peaks but I had in mind a secluded quiet backpack where I could relax and avoid the crowds and noise. Somewhere, dare I say – “Isolated” – from the busy outside world? What better place then Mt. Isolation.
I wanted to sit on a wind blown summit, all alone and just soak in the beauty of the surrounding mountains. Sometime just before sunset with expanding views in all directions. I would descend the summit cone just as the sun set and camp out in the winter wonderland of deep snow. With crisp winter air and maybe a few snow flurries, at a secluded campsite I could enjoy the many memories of all the peaks I had climbed on my quest. Well I almost succeeded in fulfilling this picture in reality – the whites forgot to give me the views and soaked my summit in fog. But the rest of the picture came true.
I started on the Rocky Branch Trail and quickly realized that the warm weather was hitting earlier then I wanted. The deep snow was soft and even with 36inch snowshoes I continued to post-hole when ever I so much as stepped an inch to the side of the crown of packed snow that represented the trail. Despite being in the woods most of the way, the views through the bare winter branches showed off the beauty of the White Mountains.
When I came to the crossing of the Rocking Branch River I had to be careful as you transitioned from the deep snow on the bank to the rivers edge. The snow bridges where in poor shape and took some careful footwork to traverse safely. I stopped at the Rocky Branch Shelter #2, had a snack, and pondered if I wanted to return here to spend the night with its views and sounds of the river or camp near Isolation as I had originally planned. It seemed such a nice spot with the sounds of the water flowing over cascades.
I continued on the Isolation trail, making several bushwhacks around wet areas that had caving in snow bridges and crisscrossing the main river a number of times on interesting combinations of snow bridges, rocks, and small jumps to avoid getting wet.
Near where the Isolation trail meets up with the Davis Path it became harder to follow the main trail. Old footprints wandered in several directions and none looked like the main trail. I always use my watch to predict when I should come to a trail intersection and it was becoming clear that I must have passed the junction or bushwhacked around it. Probably the Isolation trail going north was not broken out from the last snowstorm and the footprints continued on to Isolation. Checking my map and compass I was 99% sure I must already be on the Davis path but that little bit of doubt was still there. I had planned to leave my heavy winter pack at the trail junction and only climb the last mile to Isolation without the added weight but because I didn’t know for sure that I didn’t miss the turn I felt I needed to bring all my gear with me. If I found myself off path I wanted the option to hike out a different route.
As things go it turns out I was right. As I traversed the ridgeline, the wind picked up and I could feel the crisp air temperature difference as you enter that wondrous world of low conifers at tree line. Around a bend, I find the spur trail to the Isolation Summit. With a hard push up the final steep climb, I crowned the ridge to the snow swept, rocky and icy summit. It was right around sunset and while crisp and windy it was warm air for March and felt as it should for a White Mountain 4000 footer. The fog blocked most of the views but you knew you were there – high on the summit – Mt. Isolation!
I stayed for 20 minutes, exploring, enjoying, and thinking about almost nothing. I had met a few day hikers just after leaving the Rocky Branch Shelter earlier in the day but for the rest of this trip I was all alone. I quietly descended back toward the Isolation Trail to camp. On the decent snow flurries fell and added a surreal air to the adventure. As I started looking for a campsite I wondered about the weather forecast and the possibility of rain the next day. Thinking that some of the water crossings might be even more difficult with the rain, I decided to hike back to the shelter instead of camping. I felt getting over the stream crossings by headlamp was safer then risking the snow bridges melting in the rain. That and the thought of an empty lean-to without having to be troubled with setting up camp sounded so laid back.
While the rain never came, I am glad I hiked back to the shelter. The snow continued to lightly fall and then abruptly stopped. The sky cleared and filled with stars all visible without moving an inch from the shelter. I made dinner and later sipped soup late into the night watching the stars and enjoy my reprieve from the news of war that I am sure everyone was listening to back home. In the morning the views where of the hillside and river around me were breathtaking, and the full moon was out even as the day braked.
I sat in my camp and enjoyed mocha coffee for several hours before even thinking of braking camp. As I hiked out the snow flurries returned then turned into bright blue skies. As always looking back at the summit I had just been on I wondered why it always seemed the summits clear after I hike out. Definitely have to return to see the fine view promised by this peak but for now it’s the perfect end to my NH 4000 quest.
John Klebes
AMC Member – Berkshire Chapter