2006 Summer Solstice - Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail

By John Klebes

The summer solstice “Death March” tradition continues.  Back in 2003 Ed Laroche started the tradition by talking us into a 1-day Presidential Range Traverse.  Twenty-five grueling miles of some of the rockiest steepest granite in the White Mountains.  If that wasn’t enough in 2004 we took on the Devils Path, 27 continuous miles through the Heart of the Catskills with an incredible 18,000 feet of elevation changes.  Then, to kick it up a notch, in 2005 we took on the entire Pemigewasset Wilderness Loop with a total of some 32 miles and 18,000 feet of elevation change.

So what did Ed have in store for us for this year?  How about the complete Sunapee Greenway Trail.  Fifty miles from the summit of Mt Monadnock to the summit of Mount Sunapee.  Given the distance Ed suggested cutting us a break and spreading this leisurely hike over two days.  What a guy!  Of course he neglected to mention that that doesn’t including hiking up to the summit of Monadnock and back down from the summit of Sunapee.  Add another FIVE miles will you?

So off Rick Briggs, Ed Laroche and I go on our summer stroll.  We started with a long distance car spot the night before.  Given the lack of good roads it’s close to a two-hour ride between the beginning and end of this hike.  We staged a car at Sunapee and camped Friday night at the base of Mount Monadnock.  With an early morning start we headed up the steep majestic slopes of Monadnock as the sunrise hit.  Despite the early hour we were not the first to the summit given this popular mountain.

We reached the summit in record time but of course none of that counted because the trail really doesn’t start until you reach the summit!  From here we headed out on what turned into a long 30 plus mile day with many pretty spots but just as many muddy, wet, buggy, and logging damaged spots.  How do I say this nicely, “It was, well, a “Death March!!!”  Rick Briggs takes the prize for controlling the pace; relentlessly refusing to allow us to ever take a break.  We had a near mutiny just to get a short break to eat lunch.

One of the major milestones on our first day was the fire tower on the summit of Pitcher Mountain.  Boy was

I glad to see it.  But of course the approach to it was all up hill and after hiking all day Rick say no way would he let us take a break short of the summit.  Up and up we went till we stood under the fire tower.  We had humid overcast conditions all day but it was at this point that we saw, and heard, the approaching thundershowers.  A dark mass of clouds was fast approaching and as tired as we were we rain to the safety of the porch on the fire-tower caretakers cabin.  The cabin was locked up and the porch was small but it allowed us to rest out off most of the coming rain.  The wind swept water over much of the porch so we had to huddle near the back but it was a welcome rest.  After the storm passed we hiked on to our camp for the night crossing numerous overgrown grassy summits hills that soaked our clothes from the wet grasses.

We finally made camp at a spot called Fox Brook.  Lucky we didn’t get more rain since Rick was using a hammock tent and wasn’t so sure it was very well setup to handle the rain and ultra light Ed had decided to travel light and leave the rain fly at home.  My bivi tent would not have helped them, as it was barely big enough for one.  

We got an early start and were off again but soon found we were really in for a treat.  We came to a section of trail that was completely underwater!  Must have been knee high.  After trying in vain to find a way around the swamp we ended up hiking right on through.  By this time the bugs were posting fliers on the trees advertising the ready availability of hiker blood with arrows pointing in our directions.  They were coming from miles away just to say hello and wish us well on our hike!

All morning Rick and Ed promised me pancakes when we got to road crossing on the map.  Taking a look at the dirt roads, the size of the town, and the remote area I was convinced that their dream of a pancake breakfast was a delusion brought on by dehydration but thankfully at the end of this dirt road we cross a main road and there to my thankful eyes I see:  A general store and kitchen with a full pancake breakfast.  What a way to re-energize!

From here the terrain got more interesting and we crossed many rocky outcroppings.  The relentless march north was no match for the pancakes and I was soon feeling the toll of abuse to our tortured bodies.  My legs were tired; my shirt soaked in sweat, the humidity would not let anything evaporate.  I feared for my life, anemic from the loss of what seemed like gallons of blood siphoned of despite lathering myself with DEET.  Between the heat, grueling hike, loss of blood, and shear exhaustion was close to my limits.

Despite our desire to finish we took a long break to recover when we reached Lake Solitude.  A beautiful spot where we could take of our boots and soak in the cool water.  It gave us a chance to cool down and gain the strength to move on to the final summit on Sunapee.

A very long and difficult endurance hike this year.  So what’s in store for next year?  Anyone want to join us?

~John Klebes