Inis Mór
Wild camping at the cliff is no longer permitted.
Foreword
The climbing on Inis Mór is a bit more involved than your average sport crag. Ledges are generally accessed by abseil, parts of which can be affected by swell, especially on spring tides. Getting back out will generally involve climbing out the descents or ascending a rope. Rain can prevent the former, so knowing how to jumar is a must. Stick clips are often essential. Holds can break, and helmets are recommended for climber and belayer. Ambrose Flynn recently put together a fantastic blog post that first time visitors will find useful.
A small number of routes have 2 bolts at the top but no rings, and a couple only have one bolt at the top. These are noted, and we're working to add rings asap.
Ben Pritchard made a short film featuring Steve and Ricky which gives a glimpse of what the Island has to offer, and Ricky did one too. To date the development has been funded mostly by a small handful of climbers. If you enjoy the routes and would like to see more bolts please consider making a donation to Inismor Bolt Fund (currently paused) and follow them on Instagram for news and updates. The 💰 symbol indicates a line paid for by the fund.
Sections and routes are described from left to right as you look at the cliff (west to east). If there's something you feel should be added to this guide, or any cool photos you’d like to share, please mail inismorboltfund@gmail.com.
Finally, info on the existing trad routes for those interested can be found here.
How to use this guide
This guide will be automatically updated whenever the author makes a change. Open in Google Docs, go into options and enable "Available Offline" as there's limited signal at the cliff.
Ethics
Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but bolts.
Leave no trace
Follow trails and take care not to damage the stone walls. Close gates behind you. Do no interfere with the
concrete cattle troughs. If you bump into locals or land owners, be polite and respectful.
Keep routes clean
Please do everything possible to avoid abandoning gear on routes. Discarded mallions can lead to galvanic corrosion impacting the stainless steel bolts. It is possible to thread a rope through the glue ins.
Help preserve the anchors
When climbing top rope, place your own gear in the chains and run the rope through this.
Projects
Kindly stay off closed projects. Some may be marked with red tape on the first bolt.
Development
Please contact inismorboltfund@gmail.com if you have any interest in contributing further development.
If you can’t abide by these guidelines go elsewhere.
Conditions
The cliff does suffer from seepage. Some routes are not impacted by this, but others can remain wet for a few days after heavy rain.
The cliffs face directly south and it can get crazy hot in the summer. You might need to climb early morning or late evening in this case, or climb on some of the routes that get more wind. I’d suggest avoiding the place during our rare heatwaves.
Logistics
Your best bet is to take the ferry from Rossaveal. It takes about 40 minutes and there are regular sailing times in the summer. You can bring a bike on the ferry or alternatively rent on the Island. It’s also possible to sail from Doolin.
Accommodation
Wild camping at the cliff is no longer permitted.
The island has a fantastic campsite under a kilometre from the pier and main village.
Alternatively Kilronan Hostel is perfectly located within a stones throw of the pier, shop and pubs.
There is a decent sized spar in the town, and both The Bar and Joe Watty's do a good feed.
Access
The climbing is centred on two adjacent non-tidal ledges. These are accessed by cycling or walking on a grassy farm trail which terminates just short of the cliff. It is possible to move from one ledge to another via an adventurous crawl through the back of the massive cave that separates them.
For Pointe Fiáin cycle or walk to here and then follow the trail to the east end of the sector. Here the cliff drops to a height of only 7 metres, and you will find 2 bolts marking the abseil point. Abseil or scramble gives access to the base.
For Aill an Ára Thiar, continue west along the cliff top past Pointe Fiáin. The east end of the sector is a convenient place to throw down an ab, giving access to the routes around The Nemedian. Several natural threads can be easily found a few metres back from the cliff top. Continuing to the west end of the sector, you’ll find two bolts a few metres back from the cliff top just above No Brain Full Gain, which offer another convenient spot to ab. Finally, you will come to The Fisherman's Descent, marked by a few metal stakes and sparsely equipped with a few rungs, which offers a convenient exit.
Both descents are involved, and can become very dangerous when wet. Unless you’re familiar with the crags and are certain it will not rain, it is essential that you leave a rope in place for escape, and be familiar with jumaring. In case of emergency, call 112, ask for the Coast Guard and provide them with the name of the ledge you’re on.
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll sampling some trad on Frame by Frame
Aill an Ára Thiar
Old Irish for 'West Kidney Cliff'. A large platform extending for several hundred metres below cliffs about 40m high. Roughly 50 minutes walk from the village, or 25 minutes with a bike. This is the more serious ledge, with more difficult access and longer, harder routes.
Cave Sector
The first routes are in the big cave at the west end of the ledge, just right of the descent.
Lip of Henle 7b+ 25m 🌟🌟🌟
The lip of the cave offers a unique and airy adventure.
[Dan McManus 9/07/22]
Aran Flyer 8a 25m 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
The steep juggy line on the left end of the cave.
[Equipped by Pete Harrison]
Into the Worst, I’m the Best 8b/+ 🌟🌟🌟
10 metres further right. Start at the double bolts at the top of the yellow groove (8 bolts up).
[Steve McClure 05/18 equipped by Adrien Boullon]
Open Project
The line starting at the back of the cave, passing the vertical yellow shield of rock on its left side before trending rightwards. 3 pitches and in the 8b region.
[Gaz Parry]
Open Project
The direct start to TGSIS. Approximately 8c starting at the first bolt.
[Ricky Bell]
The Green Stuff is Slippy 8a+/b 🌟🌟🌟
Start from the double bolts on the arête near the end of the first pitch of The Red Stuff Will Kill You. Traverse left under the large black roof and then quest up and left into the steepness.
[Ricky Bell 05/18]
Steve McClure nearing the chains on The Green Stuff is Slippy
Open Project
Same start as TGSIS, trending up and right after the roof.
[Ricky Bell]
The Red Stuff Will Kill You 7a+, 7a, 5+
Pitch 1: Climb the overhanging black corner, followed by some tricky moves on a vertical face to gain a small ledge in a corner under a roof. From here, move out left onto an arête, and make some final bouldery moves to gain the spacious belay ledge.
Pitch 2: Technical leftwards traverse from the ledge. Possible to end up hanging in space so bring prusiks for leader and second.
Pitch 3: Finish easily straight up.
[Ricky Bell 05/18]
The first half of the first pitch fell down winter 2020.
The next routes are on the vertical walls just past the cave.
Dufresne 6b+ 30m 🌟🌟
Starts left of Vyleesi. Jump to a flat hold and trend leftwards to gain the large flake. From the upper ledges, depart right onto the vertical face and continue upwards to the anchor.
A more logical start is to scramble up on the right and step left across the ledge. May need an additional bolt added to make this feel comfortable.
[Gary Butler 20/07/20] 💰
Vyleesi 7a+ 25m 🌟🌟
The groove to the left of the arête has a dynamic sequence near the finish to gain the top of the arête. Shared lower-off with the next route. A bit run out.
[Pete Harrison 26/08/19]
No Brain Full Gain 7c+ 25m 🌟🌟🌟
The obvious arête offers fantastic climbing.
[Adrien Boullon 07/06/18]
Viasil Reloaded 7c 35m 🌟
The vertical face just right of NBFG. Very hard crux at the 6th bolt.
[Adrien Boullon 07/06/18] Needs rings
Adrien Boullon on Viasil Reloaded
Babylon Sector
The next routes are about 50m further right just past the detached pillar.
Ceol na Farraige 6c 20m 🌟
The wall right of the detached pillar finishing on the ledge at two thirds height.
[Shane Smith 19/05/19]
Soulshine 7b 20m 🌟🌟
Just right of the corner to the right of Ceol na Farraige. Boulder problem start, then a flake leads to a rest before several long pulls on the wall above builds to a hard crux guarding the ledge and anchors.
[Shane Smith 15/06/19] Needs rings
Second Act 7a+ 20m 🌟🌟
Start as for soulshine and head right after the second bolt to follow a groove system to a bulge and then the anchors.
[Shane Smith 04/08/19] Needs rings
Would benefit from a good brushing.
Atlantis 7b+ 35m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts just left of the low impassable roof taking the obvious right facing corner system. Look for a good spike hold up and out left at the second bolt. Brilliant pumpy climbing with a delicate crux past the roof.
[Colm Shannon 19/07/20] 💰
Babylon 8a/+ 35m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts at the left end of the low impassable roof. Hard through the roof, right ledge, right again to yellow wall leading to a smaller roof and the upper wall.
[Pete Robins 02/08/19]
Pete Robins on Babylon
The next route is further right at the right end of the low impassable roof.
Peggy 7c 25m 🌟🌟🌟
A crux start breaches the roof, followed by a lovely and still tricky upper wall. Spicy runout near the top.
[Ben Bransby 23/07/18]
Supersonic Sector
Further right the crag steepens. A short section of the ledge in between these sectors can become impassable with high tide and swell.
1. Jammy Dodger 7a 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Great sustained climbing on good edges with a tricky crux near the top (stay a bit left of the bolt).
[P. Robins 12/07/22]
2. Salad Dodger 7b 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Amazing steep climbing on immaculate rock passing the big patch of green moss on its left.
[P. Robins 10/07/22]
3. Black Pearl 7c+ 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts just to the right of the green moss. Complex crux leaving the large horizontal break followed by some kneebar trickery leading into a fantastic headwall.
[C. Shannon 9/07/22] 💰
4. Heartline 7b/c?? 28m
Steep line with a hard crux leaving the break followed by some steep bridging.
[Pete Robins 17/08/21]
5. Don't Stop Me Now 7b+ 28m 🌟🌟
The steep groove and arête. Bouldery climbing gaining the arête followed by a great pumpy finish.
[Pete Robins 04/08/19]
6. Supersonic Woman 7b 25m 🌟🌟
Great steep fun with big moves on good holds.
[Pete Robins 24/07/18]
7. Mister Fahrenheit 7c+ 25m 🌟🌟
The smooth hanging mini-groove feature just right of Supersonic Woman has a funky crux where a knee pad is useful.
[Pete Robins 24/07/18] Needs rings
8. Lady Godiva 8b 35m 🌟🌟🌟
The incredible and devilishly technical hanging corner.
[Pete Robins 25/08/19]
Pete Robins on Lady Godiva
9. Sailing on the Seven Seas 7b+ 35m 🌟🌟
Start a few metres right of Lady Govida and just left of the start of Cannon Fodder.
Pull steeply to a jug/break and climb the arête to the ledge. Move left then gain a prominent hanging undercut, followed by steep moves round the bulge (knee pad useful). Continue up the immaculate wall.
[Pete Robins 12/05/19] Needs rings
10. Canon Fodder 7b+ 35m 🌟🌟🌟
Make a wild span through the roof from a small undercut crimp in the roof to a jug on the lip. Above the break is a thin crux, followed by sustained great climbing.
[Dan McManus 12/05/19]
11. Extra Stout 7c+ 35m 🌟🌟🌟
From the same roof start as Cannon Fodder, trend 5 metres right to the slim right-facing corner and a technical, tenuous crux sequence. The wall above is easier but not without interest.
[Dan McManus 13/05/19] Needs Rings
12. Viral Load 7c+ 20m 🌟🌟
Hard boulder through the black roof followed by an easier but interesting headwall.
[P. Robins 12/07/22]
Closed project
Starts as for Viral Load then trends right.
[P. Robbins]
Ancient World 7c 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts on the ledge just before the crag turns a corner. A steep start breaching the roof leads to a pumpy and technical wall climb with a fantastic finish.
[P. Robins 13/07/22]
Nemedian Sector
The next routes are further right around the corner.
1. Neptune's Kiss 7b 25m 🌟🌟
The pristine hanging right-angled corner at the left end of the bay. Start up an easy flake over on the right then traverse a break left to the corner (high first bolt so bring a stick clip or big cam).
[Pete Robins 22/07/18]
For now the route is bolted to be topped out. A set of rings needs to be added at 25 metres.
2. Closed Project
Right of Neptune's Kiss. Goes up then right onto face, then up steep groove.
[P. Harrison]
3. Open Project
The impressive steep prow into the hanging corner above.
[Dan McManus]
Open Project
Crimpy line up the middle of the vertical wall.
[Paul Mallee]
4. Perfect Storm 7a+ 35m 🌟🌟
The obvious open right facing groove has a tough start around a bulge to gain the groove and a steep finish at the top.
[Pete Robins 13/05/18]
Chain to be moved higher.
Erwan Le Lann on Perfect Storm
5. Perfect World 7b 35m 🌟🌟🌟
A classy pitch that weaves right across a hanging slab (crux) at mid-height to finish in a right facing groove.
[Pete Harrison 22/07/18]
6. The Italian 7b 30m 🌟🌟
Aim for a small hanging groove at half height, with hard sections in between good rests, culminating in a tough bulge to reach a lower-off beneath the capping roof.
[Pete Harrison 23/07/18]
7. Ancora 7b+ 35m 🌟🌟🌟
The steep extension to The Italian gives a wild finish. Tops out.
[Pete Harrison 24/07/18]
8. The Morrígu 7b+ 35m 🌟🌟
Starts as for The Italian, trending right after the 5th bolt to gain the hanging corner, followed by a bouldery crux and a fantastic finish on big holds.
[Colm Shannon 25/08/19] 💰
9. The New World 7a+ 35m 🌟🌟🌟
The wall and discontinuous right facing shallow groove leads to a steep finish.
[Pete Robins 12/05/18]
The next 2 routes frequently have wet streaks and tend to need a brush when dry.
10. The Fomorian 7c 35m 🌟🌟
The line tackling the roof at the start. Great wall climbing past the roof, with a crux section near the top getting stood into an undercut rail.
[Colm Shannon 25/03/21] 💰
11. The Nemedian 7b 35m 🌟🌟
A seam feature leads up to the immaculate headwall. Start steeply at a weakness in the low overlap.
[Pete Robins 14/05/18]
12. Gardeners World 7a+ 20m 🌟🌟🌟
Takes the wall beneath the hanging moss tufas right of Nemedian. Tricky move at the 3rd bolt then a balancy sequence out onto a hanging slab and a crimpy finish up the wall above.
[Pete Harrison 03/08/19]
Sophie-Berenice Wilmes on Gardeners World
13. End of the World 6c 15m 🌟🌟
Obvious layback flake at the right end of the ledge. The hard climbing is at the bottom past the 2nd bolt. Then a great juggy romp up the flake line and left to the lower off. Looks run out but don’t be put off, the holds are massive.
[P. Harrison 13/08/21]
14. Open Project 20m
3 bolt extension to End of the World. 8aish
[P. Harrison] One bolt at top.
15. Domhain Dothuigthe 7b 15m 🌟
Rightmost line with hard and reachy moves to pass the roof followed by lovely climbing up the slab.
16. Domhain Dothuigthe Ext 7c+ 20m
Boudlery extension.
Pointe Fiáin
Irish for 'Wild Point'. Roughly 45 minutes walk from the village, or 20 minutes with a bike. This is the friendlier ledge, with easier access and shorter, easier routes.
Banba Sector
1. Midnight hour 7a+ 🌟🌟
Start as for Rebel Yell, at the fourth bolt move left towards the arête. Finish for as Rebel Yell.
[H. Hennessy 14/8/2020] 💰
Saïd Belhaj on Midnight hour
2. Rebel Yell 7a 🌟🌟
Start below the first arête right of the big cave. A hard move leads to a ledge, climb the face for 10 metres to a bouldery crux, then make a rising traverse to the arête.
[H. Hennessy 25/8/2019]
3. Taccu Maccu 7a 🌟🌟
Start as for Piercing Banba but continue directly upwards. Tricky section leaving the break (sidepull out right) followed by fantastic climbing to the top.
[C. Shannon 22/8/21] 💰
Mallion at chains has opened and needs replacing
4. Piercing Banba 7a+, 6a 🌟🌟
Climbs the arête below the roof of Pointe Fiáin.
Pitch 1: A steep start on good holds leads to a ledge, move right along this to gain the arête. Climb the face and arête finish under the roof.
Pitch 2: From the belay move left to a good stance beside the roof, then traverse right across the lip towards the arête. Tops out.
[H. Hennessy 27/7/2019]
Mallion at chains has opened and needs replacing
Mathieu Maynadier on Piercing Banba
Closed Project
Clean vertical wall left of Venom
[Jack Murphy Flynn]
5. Venom 6a+ 20m
Start 1 metre left of Amazing Spiderfear. A steep start leads to easier climbing up the slab. Joins Spiderfear at the last two bolts.
[H. Hennessy 28/7/19]
6. The Amazing Spiderfear 6b 20m 🌟🌟
15 metres right of the big roof. Start below a detached block at 4 metres. Pass 3 bolts to gain the arête and follow this to the top.
[H. Hennessy 15/06/19]
7. Déjà Vu 6c 18m 🌟🌟🌟
Start 3 metres right of Spiderfear. A bouldery start leads to some interesting climbing up the face and corner.
[H. Hennessy 29/6/19]
Closed project
Steep line starting as for Déjà Vu before trending rightwards.
[P. Harrison]
Closed project
Steep prow line starting at the right end of the big black roof. Not fully bolted.
[H. Hennessy]
Stormy an Madra Dubh 7c 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Sustained climbing trending up and left on the clean vertical right facing wall.
[D. Hurley 30/08/22] 💰
The top of this line can feel a bit intimidating due to the final bolt being in a somewhat detached block. There is an ongoing discussion as to whether the chains should be dropped to just before the overlap.
Closed project
Direct line on the clean vertical right facing wall.
[D. Hurley]
The next 2 lines climb the grooved wall above the hanging ledge. There is a bolt under the ledge for belaying if needed.
8. Happy Plaice 6b+ 20m 🌟
Steep groove left of shredder.
[H. Hennessy 22/8/21]💰
9. Shredder 6b+ 20m 🌟🌟
The rightmost groove. Sustained and technical
[H. Hennessy 22/8/21]💰
Hugh Henessey on Shredder
Freight Train Boogie 7b 🌟🌟🌟
Climb the steep wall and face above left of the large roof.
[H. Hennessy 12/8/20]💰
Hugh Hennessy on Freight Train Boogie
The next routes can be found 250 metres west of the descent. The bottom of the crag is undercut, but there is a three metre section which is not, the first route starts 5 metres left of this.
Bird Bath 6c
Left of Borboleta, hard crux at fourth bolt.
[H. Hennessy 23/8/21] 💰
Borboleta 6b 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts below a short corner at two metres. Climbs straight up passing a short corner at half height.
[H. Hennessy 21/04/19]
Angel Dust 6c 25m
Climbs the two bulges three metres right of Borboleta, marked by a white streak running through the second bulge.
[H. Hennessy 05/05/19]
Dreams of Aran 6c 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts two metres right of Angel Dust at a brown streak. Climb the obvious corner line with increasing difficulty to a long move for an outstanding finish.
[D. Dillon 27/6/19]
Clyde Direct 6b+ 25m 🌟🌟
Start as for Right turn Clyde but continue straight up for sustained interesting moves and a high crux.
[D. Dillon 28/6/19]
Right Turn Clyde 6a+ 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Starts two metres right of Dreams of Aran. Climb straight to the third bolt, make a short traverse right and finish up corner.
[D. Dillon 05/04/19]
The next route is 10 metres right of Right Turn Clyde, the top is marked by a two metre roof with a gap on its right hand side, the route starts below the gap.
Mistaken Identity 6b 25m 🌟🌟🌟
Bouldery moves up to horizontal break, aim for the steep wall 3/4's way up. Climb this and move left to lower off.
[H. Hennessy 05/04/19]
The Pirate Queen 6c+ 20m
Start two metres right of Mistaken Identity. Climb to the small overhang and make a difficult move to gain the face above.
[H. Hennessy 27/6/2019]
Dan Shaffrey on The Pirate Queen
Macha 7b+ 🌟🌟
7 metres right of the pirate queen, the sharp arête that starts at half height.
[H. Hennessy 6/8/20] 💰
Cocoon 5+ 🌟🌟
14 metres right of the Pirate Queen. Start below a shallow corner, climb to the 3rd bolt and make a short traverse left, then continue up climbing right of the corner.
[J. Hennessy 11/7/20] 💰
The Beginning 5 🌟🌟
Three metres right of Cocoon. Climb the easy angled wall just right of the right facing corner that starts at half height.
[J. Hennessy 10/7/20]
Witness the Wetness 6b+
A tricky start on often wet holds leads to a featured seam which looks much easier than the given grade.
[D. Dillon 17/7/21]
Liquid Sunshine 7c 🌟🌟🌟
Excellent climbing through the brown bulge left of full snowflake, start right of the wet streak.
[H.Hennessy 31/3/22] 💰
Saïd Belhaj on Liquid Sunshine 7c
Full Snowflake 7c
The right hand side of the prow left of tiny thunder. Start as for tiny thunder, move left after the first bolt. Avoid the wet streak at the third bolt by moving left then back right at the fourth bolt. Continue straight up with increasing difficulty.
[H. Hennessy 26/6/21]
Tiny Thunder 6c+ 🌟🌟
Start 15 metres right of The Pirate Queen. Climb the face to the base of a steep corner, make hard moves to gain the corner, follow this to lower off.
[H. Hennessy 13/7/19]
Closed Project
Line left of Epiphany starting on the rust coloured rock.
[Michael Sheehan]
Needs retro bolting. Has a bolt in a loose block. Do not get on this. Rusty mallion on first bolt.
Epiphany 7a+ 15m
Jump to a jug and pull onto a series of steep moves. Aim for the sanctuary of the ledge before resuming with a committing move around the quartz wall to gain easier ground.
[D. Dillon 21/7/19]
Altered by rockfall over the winter. Please avoid for now.
The next routes are found between the huge impassable roof and the descent.
Pluto 6b
Start below a short east facing corner four metres right of the huge roof. Climb between two wet streaks to a ledge, easier climbing to lower off.
[H. Hennessy 29/5/21] 💰
The Orb 7a
Start two metres right of "Pluto". A crimpy boulder problem gets you through the bulge and up to easier ground.
[H. Hennessy 30/5/21] 💰
Closed project
Partially bolted line between The Orb and Dyson Swarm.
[H. Hennessy]
Dyson Swarm 7a 🌟
Starts between The Orb and Entrance just left of a roof near the top.
[H. Hennessy 5/6/21] 💰
Entrance Fee 6b+ 🌟
Ten metres west of the descent, climbs the line between two roofs, bouldery crux.
[H. Hennessy 9/8/20] 💰
Disclaimer
This guidebook is intended for information purposes only, it is not an instruction manual. This free guidebook is for the use of experienced outdoor climbers to make their own judgement calls as to what is and where is safe to climb on any given day.
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained within this guidebook at the time of writing, it cannot be guaranteed to be completely accurate.
The island is very exposed to the Atlantic Ocean swells brought by the ever present trade winds. A good working knowledge of such nautical matters is essential to ensure safe practice whilst visiting and climbing on remote and very exposed sea cliffs and ledges.
Rock climbing is an activity with a very real danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities must employ appropriate levels of mountaineering/rock climbing guile and common sense. Participants must take personal responsibilities for their actions and involvement in these activities at all times.
In Ireland all land is owned by someone, the inclusion of a location in this guide does not mean we have the right of access or the right to climb there. Please respect the rights of the landowner and we can continue to visit these beautiful places.