Naz’s beginner plush-making guide
--------
This is a guide based on my personal experience only. My knowledge may be lacking in some areas, I will try to link to sources when this is the case. Take my recommendations with a grain of salt. This guide will not teach you every single thing you need to know, but it is made to be a starting point.
What you will need:
Thread:
I recommend polyester thread but you can absolutely use cotton (I have used both). Typically you want to use polyester thread w/ polyester materials (like minky) and cotton thread with cotton materials but tbh cotton holds up fine.
I would test if your thread snaps with a light pull, if so don’t use it. Most thread will snap with enough pressure but the thread does go off over time and get weak, so if it’s been sitting around for ages you might need something newer. Snapping too easily is a sign that your thread is past its prime.
I only use white or black thread 99% of the time. If you want to buy a matching thread go for it but IMO it’s unnecessary. It also makes unpicking really difficult (for eg an orange thread on orange minky is super hard to see).
Fabric:
I use minky fabric (shannon brand) for all my work, but it is expensive. You can start out with fleece when you are very first learning, just keep in mind that the stretch is different to minky and you will need to look for sewing patterns that are made to suit fleece. It’s good for practising your hand and machine sewing on but will not look as professional as a minky plush when finished.
When you can afford it, move to minky asap, it’s a bit of a learning curve and the sooner you start the better (once you have learnt basic hand sewing or sewing with your machine).
Minky stretches horizontally but not vertically, so patterns made for it need to account for this. It is also very slippery, I use a LOT of pins. Pin one side of your minky then go pin between all of the pins you’ve already put down, but on the opposite side. This will stop it curling underneath itself.
Pin density on something to be machine sewn. If I was going to hand sew I would not use as many. I use and recommend glasshead pins (they are very thin and easy to use).
Fabric Sources:
I buy my minky from Fabric(dot)com. This is a bit of a controversial choice. They are the cheapest minky I have found, but fabric can/has arrived damaged from them. I run the risk because if they do send me damaged fabric I send them a picture immediately and they have always refunded or sent me more. This may vary depending on where you live. Check any minky that arrives for damage the day you get it, if you leave it too long most places will not replace it.
Some other sources are: https://www.facebook.com/notes/plush-artists-united/supplies-and-shopping-list/1274302176094497/
(you may need to be a member of the Plush Artists United facebook group to view this list).
For those who live outside of the USA your options are limited if you want to buy local. In Australia we have no shannon brand (the best quality) minky suppliers, I HAVE to order internationally, I don’t have a choice.
You may be able to find minky locally, keep in mind the quality differences between brands. It may not bother you if you are just starting out.
Shannon brand comes in a lot of colors, here is a photograph of my own swatch set. You can contact shannon distributors in your country to try and get one yourself:
https://www.deviantart.com/nazfx/journal/Reference-Various-minky-swatches-UPDATED-15-5-561984225
The recently popular Mochi minky (shorter nap, has 2 way stretch) can be found on Aliexpress and I believe Joanns in the USA (might be another store not 100% sure). Mochi stuffing can be bought from DAISO stores. It looks like this:
https://www.daisojapan.com/p-22224-polyester-stuffing-for-handicrafts-15pks.aspx
Seam allowance and marking:
Instead of marking only the seam allowance and cutting that, I mark my pattern directly onto my minky and roughly cut the seam allowance around it. I use an approx 1cm seam allowance but use the drawn pattern to guide my stitches rather than the seam allowance, so it can vary slightly without issue.
I mark light to medium color minky fabric with friXion pens, these come away with heat. For dark minky I mark with a silver sharpie. Do not use non-metallic sharpies on minky, they can bleed through over time.
Scissors:
You don’t have to go and buy fancy fabric scissors, anything that is sharp enough to cut is fine. I didn’t buy expensive scissors until I had advanced so much that I was cutting a tonne of fabric.
I would highly recommend buying a rotary cutter for cutting your minky. It’s so much faster and easier than cutting out tonnes of pieces by hand. They look like a pizza cutter. Eg: https://www.spotlightstores.com/sewing-fabrics/quilting/quilting-tools/quilting-cutters/olfa-rotary-cutter/BP80061176001
You need to buy replacement blades for them as they get dull but they last a fair while.
Sewing machine (?):
Do you need a sewing machine? It depends on your budget and how much plushmaking you think you will be doing. If you are only going to make a couple of plush then just hand sew, but a sewing machine is vital if you are going to be doing this frequently. It opens up a lot of options and increases speed tenfold.
You only need 2 stitches to make plush, anything else is extra and typically wont be used. A straight stitch (for your general seams) and zigzag (for applique purposes). I use a straight stitch (standard settings) for 99% of my seams sewn on plush. I also use a generic/universal needle. Test your stitches on a scrap piece before sewing your final seams.
A walking foot is HIGHLY recommended for sewing with minky. I never sew without one. It helps to evenly feed the stretchy minky underneath your presser foot as you sew.
I would highly recommend you go to a local sewing machine store and talk to them about machines they have available rather than buying online. Your machine will need to be serviced once per year by a sewing machine technician, and these people will sometimes only service certain brands. It’s going to be a pain if you buy a machine brand that is not serviceable in your area, so talk to the local store about what machines they service and what they sell.
A lot of people will say that they never have their machines serviced but I see a very noticeable difference in performance before and after the service is complete.
You should be able to buy a decent machine from $200-300. Most people start with the Brother brand (myself included). They are one of the cheapest out there and do a good job. Most plush makers in the USA start with the SE-400, it is a machine that does both embroidery and regular sewing.
Take care not to buy a very cheap machine, some craft stores will sell some marketed at beginners for less than $100. Many of these are gimmicky and are a living nightmare to use. They just aren’t made to do serious sewing. Try to get something a little more substantial if you can.
Please educate yourself on oiling and cleaning your specific machine. This needs to be done frequently, especially when sewing minky as huge amounts of fluff get dragged into the machine and clog it up over time. I give mine a good cleanout every few projects and oil whenever I run through a whole bobbin (or whenever I remember).
Second hand machines are a good option. Just make sure you know if you can get the machine serviced locally before you start searching. A lot of people buy machines and then get sick of them and sell them. It can be a gamble like buying anything second hand though, assess the risk of the sale. I bought my Bernina 830LE (embroidery and sewing machine) for $6000AUD, this machine new would have cost me over $15 000.
Hand sewing:
Hand sewing is essential to learn regardless of if you have a machine. I’m not going to film myself doing these stitches because there are TONNES of youtube videos out there already doing so (please don’t ask for a link. I can find a dozen videos on a single search).
To start I would look up the BACKSTITCH for sewing your seams and the LADDER STITCH for sewing separate plush pieces together (eg an ear to a head) and to close up seams when you have turned your plush inside out and stuffed it.
For hand sewing I like to use a fine needle, mine are labelled for embroidery (nice and thin) but get whatever needle you find easy to work with. Doesn’t need to be special.
You may want to get a DOLL NEEDLE for thread sculpting. This is where you use a very long needle and a long piece of thread to pinch parts of your plush together once stuffed. It’s especially useful for changing the angle of eyes if they are too bug-eyed on your plush.
Before and after thread sculpting eyes.
Video tutorial: https://gum.co/iGlPK
Embroidery machine (?):
Embroidery machines are not mandatory but very nice to have if you want to make a professional looking plush. I’ll start off by going over the alternative if you don’t want to spend a tonne of money on one.
Applique is the practise of stitching down cut out layers of fabric on top of your base fabric. You can do this with any regular sewing machine that has a zigzag stitch. You are welcome to google it but I have made a tutorial specifically on how to make professional looking eyes for plush here:
Tutorial: https://gum.co/cKMT
Hand embroidery and hand applique is possible if you do not have an embroidery or general sewing machine. I have not done either so not in a position to comment on it, but feel free to research if it’s something you want to look into.
Premade eyes can also be used, such as teddy bear style eyes. You can buy these from most craft/sewing stores. Some artists will offer embroidery patch commissions. You could potentially custom order the eyes and hand sew or glue them onto the stuffed plush.
Check out this facebook page to find a bunch of plush artists that may be able to do this for you:
Brother is the most popular starting brand for embroidery machines. Make sure to find out what size embroidery hoop your machine can accommodate before buying. The hoop will determine how large a piece of embroidery you can do.
If you can, buy the machine with the largest hoop size you can afford, you will regret it later if you go too small. Each machine will have a limit to what hoop size it can house, so don’t buy a small machine and expect it to be upgradable to a larger hoop later if it isn’t compatible.
Embroidery materials:
Embroidery on minky is a specialised task. You will need a few things. A must have is CUT away stabiliser. Stabiliser is the paper/fabric like backing that is put into your hoop as a base to lay your fabric on, it gives it body for the stitches to bite into. Do not buy TEAR away stabiliser for minky, it is too weak, you need CUT away.
I personally float all my minky embroidery. That means that instead of binding the minky in the hoop, I bind the stabiliser in the hoop, add a spray adhesive to that and then stick my minky (wrong side down) on top. IMO this is the best option because the spray adhesive stops the minky from stretching funny while the design stitches out. It’s also much easier. I use a spray adhesive made for quilting, it will not hurt your machine, don’t stress. I use this brand but you may need to find an equivalent based on your location: https://www.everythingfabric.com.au/505-basting-spray-500ml
I have made a tutorial on floating minky if you are interested: https://gum.co/qWlzj
Minky ‘floated’ on top of the hoop
Minky will need a topper when you plan to embroider with it. A topper is a layer you put on top of the minky that stops the fibers being stuck in the stitches. You can either use tear away stabiliser (it will leave some small white marks around the design so I only use this for pale colored plush) or a water soluble stabiliser. This is often a clear, plastic looking material that you can tear away from the design after use (and use a wet cloth to wipe any bits that didn’t pull away).
For embroidery I almost solely use Madiera Rayon and Robison anton threads. Most embroidery threads are fine for plush but I prefer rayon type.
If you have some $ to spare, I would highly recommend buying this beast:
https://www.embroideries.com.au/madeira-treasure-chest-3-drawer-rayon-thread-194-spools
It is expensive, but it will give you thread in almost every color to start off with. I bought this when I started out and as I used up threads I would buy them in a bigger spool, knowing I used that color a lot. Eventually I built up my collection of thread (over 100 spools) in different colors using this method. I buy my white and black embroidery thread in huge bulk spools because I go through those colors a LOT.
Take care when buying thread second hand, it can be too good to be true. Thread goes off after a long enough time, so someone selling a heap second hand can be a blessing or a curse.
Embroidery software (?):
One unfortunate part of buying an embroidery machine (that most people don’t realise) is that you need software to go with it. Most machines do not come with software. I am not very well versed on the options out there. I would recommend going to the Plush Artists United facebook page and looking at their files/resources on software available. Some software can be more expensive than your embroidery machine itself! And some is free, with lots of options in between. Free versions can be buggy so do your research.
I personally use the Bernina embroidery suite, this is one of the most expensive options but it gives me flawless results every time, so it was a worthy investment for my business.
If you want to learn how to make sure your embroidery is in the exact right spot on your fabric go here: https://gum.co/UaAcn
If you want to learn about fancy gradient embroidery I have a detailed tutorial here: https://gum.co/EjHnN
Stuffing:
Almost any toy stuffing is fine. I go onto ebay and search ‘polyester toy stuffing’ and buy in bulk (10-20kg at a time). Most craft stores will sell stuffing. Do some research to find the cheapest option for you.
Mochi stuffing can be bought from DAISO stores. It looks like this:
https://www.daisojapan.com/p-22224-polyester-stuffing-for-handicrafts-15pks.aspx
I have only been able to find it through Daiso, and you will need several bags to stuff a medium size plush. It is much softer and bouncier than normal stuffing, it almost feels silky. It holds its shape long term much better than regular stuffing (which wants to clump), but I don’t use it on plush unless it’s a really small area because of the price.
Stuffing is an often overlooked part of plush making, it’s vital to getting a good shape. 2 people can use the same sewing pattern and the finished product can look entirely different depending on the stuffing technique. I would recommend separating your stuffing into multiple smaller pieces and stuffing with that, don’t try and push in huge clumps. Your finished result will be much smoother. If something is looking off in a sewn pattern it very well may be that you have understuffed or rushed a stuffing job. Unstuff if you are unhappy and try again, even I do this from time to time.
Starting to pattern:
When you are first starting out I would highly recommend you use patterns made by experienced makers. Here is an extensive list (you may need to be a member of the Plush artists united facebook group to view):
https://www.facebook.com/notes/plush-artists-united/pdf-pattern-designers-list/1304206463104068/
Pick something SIMPLE. Do not try to make anything complex for your first few plush, or you’ll probably want to rip your hair out. You can expand into more complex patterns as you gain confidence. These patterns will give you step by step guides on assembly which will teach you a tonne. There are also heaps of free plush patterns available via google (don’t ask me to find them for you).
Putting these plush together will help you get a better understanding of what shapes do what when sewn and stuffed.
Making your own patterns:
At some point you are likely going to want to make your own patterns. By now you should have a better idea of how to make a basic plush (having made some pre-patterned ones). You can start to modify them to customise elements (check the pattern’s usage guide on if you are allowed to modify it etc).
Modifying patterns can be as easy as making some areas bulkier, longer etc. You will then need to modify the areas that attach to make sure it all still fits together. For eg if you make a leg thicker, make sure to make the inner leg piece thicker as well so they both still fit.
Patterning is TRIAL AND ERROR. There is no quick or guaranteed way to edit or make patterns. My pony pattern for eg must have over 90+ iterations to get it to the polished state it is in now. When making a brand new pattern I may have to remake elements 3-15 times to get it right. This is all a part of the process.
Make your edit, sew, stuff and see what it did. Repeat till happy. Make sure to make your edits on paper (or digitally) so you know what changes did what, and don’t lose your progress.
There is no single tutorial that will magically teach you how to pattern any plush. It’s a broad skill that needs to be developed over time.
Here is where I’m going to shamelessly plug myself. I’ve made over 100 video tutorials teaching people how to make their own patterns. When I started there were little to no tutorials out there for patterning so I filled this niche myself. I’m sure there are some free tutorials out there but I take pride in the breadth of tutorials I have made for this purpose.
Here are some I recommend to beginners wanting to learn to pattern:
How to pattern a 4 legged animal: https://gum.co/GdwOC
How to pattern and sew stripes (helps w/ sewing markings): https://gum.co/jDEEE
How to pattern and sew darts: https://gum.co/vMPZ
How to pattern complex darts: https://gum.co/eoXrV
How to wire plush bodies/legs: https://gum.co/ndXzL
How to pattern canine heads (multiple techniques that can be applied to any creature with a snout) https://gum.co/yMqmI
Wing wiring: https://gum.co/ZJQeP
Stuffing: https://gum.co/rcETe
Quadruped gussets: https://gum.co/vsKy
How to pattern and sew hips: https://gum.co/LxfbN
How to pattern and sew butts: https://gum.co/WHIef
How to make an asymmetrical pattern (eg crouching, running): https://gum.co/FjZAF
This is just a small amount of tutorials I’ve made. I also have several videos that show how I develop a pattern (eg fruitbat, werewolf) that also give you the finished pattern to work with. You can see them all at www.gumroad.com/nazegoreng
If you want to learn something in particular and not sure which video to look at, feel free to message me.
How to combine pieces:
You can ladder stitch (hand sew) separate stuffed pieces together, but for the most professional look you can make your pattern machine sewn.
This question gets asked a lot. To combine pieces to be sewn by machine, you first have to make a test version of the plush. For eg here I am wanting to combine this leg to this body. I make the leg and body separately, and stuff them.
I pin the leg where I want it to sit on the body. I then use a sharpie to mark where the leg meets the body. I also add reference marks to help line both pieces up.
I then unstuff these pieces, pick all the seams apart, cut away all seam allowance and scan the resulting flat pieces. This gives me something like this:
I then transfer these markings onto my pattern, and it gives me the new seam lines for where I need to sew these pieces together on the finished version.
You don’t need to do this for all separate pieces though, I ladder stitch separate pieces together all the time. I use this stitch to attach for eg: head to neck, ears to head, beak to face, etc etc.
Patterning from 3d:
A lot of beginners seem to think this method is a quick way to get a perfect pattern straight away. The idea is to make your shape, cover it in cling wrap, then a few layers of tape. Then mark on seams, cut the tape off and add darts/seams till it lays flat to get you your pattern. You can google ‘taping a fursuit head’ and it will cover the exact same method.
The thing with this method is that it rarely (almost never) gives perfect results, even when the pattern is adjusted to suit minky stretch (shrink your pieces 15% horizontally to account for stretch). You can see from the below examples that this technique gives you a pattern that /kind/ of looks like your base shape. There are many reasons why this doesn’t work perfectly, but I have used it often to give me a starting point which I then refine further to get it where I want it.
Final pattern after a great deal of refinement. I actually patterned this from scratch just using observations gained from the taping method. Ultimately it’s a good learning tool for odd shapes but will likely not give you a perfect result the first time.
Patterning hair:
Patterning hair for plush can be as simple as cutting out paper into the shape of the hair, holding it against the plush and using tape to add more width/height/shape to it until it fits the anatomy of your character. Keep in mind that if the paper no longer lays flat you will have to add a seam to allow it to do so.
For the inside of hair (and other flat pieces like wings) you want to sandwich a thing called quilt batting inside. Quilt batting comes in an assortment of thicknesses and rigidity. I cannot recommend certain brands, but go to your local sewing or fabric store and feel it for yourself. I use a medium weight batting for the inside of hair, and a much more rigid kind made for the inside of handbags for things like wings that need to hold a flat shape.
Sewing in quilt batting:
To sew in quilt batting, simply pin your minky pieces as normal (right side to right side) then lay that on top of a layer of quilt batting. You can choose to pin the 3 layers together or if it’s a simple piece that’s probably not necessary. Stitch through all 3 layers, cut away all excess seam allowance and flip the piece inside out as you would with any other sewn piece.
Sizing your plush:
Sizing your plush can make a big difference in how easy it is to put together. Too small and things can be super finicky (and may need hand sewing in tricky areas). Too big and you are using a LOT of materials, and you may need to start using wire, or even things like PVC piping on HUGE (3’+) plush.
DO NOT MAKE A HUGE PLUSH WHEN YOU ARE STARTING OUT. I might be breaking some people’s hearts but you need to be able to make and test that plush PERFECTLY at a small size before you make it giant. Making giant (3’+) plush is a unique skillset in itself and is very difficult. It becomes a feat of engineering beyond just sewing the seams and shoving stuffing in there at giant sizes. Do me a favor and gain some skills before trying this.
When you have perfected your pattern I have a guide on scaling it to make giant plush: https://gum.co/yDWri
I personally like to make my plush between 6-14” as a general guide. I typically do not make teeny tiny plush though. Whether something is going to be too tricky to sew (small) depends on the pattern. Simple patterns are easier to sew smaller than more complex ones.
Dyeing minky:
If you need a special color, it is possible to dye minky. You need to use a suitable polyester dye, such as Rit Dyemore or Jacquard Idye poly. I prefer Rit Dyemore because it’s already in a liquid form and is less prone to patchy areas like the powder Idye.
You can mix dyes for custom colors, and you can also dye a pre-colored minky to tint it. For example if I want a rich golden orange I would dye a yellow minky with an orange dye. Extreme color changes can be hard (for eg you can’t dye white minky pure black) so it’s often easier to start with the closest color and change it slightly.
There are some additional steps needed to treat the minky after it is dyed, I cover them all here in my comprehensive dyeing guide:
Dyeing gradients is also possible (though tricky). I cover that here:
Rit has a handy online tool to help mix the exact right color as well: https://www.ritdye.com/color-formulas/
Airbrushing:
Airbrushing is a fantastic tool for more advanced plush work and can achieve some stunning effects. Almost any airbrush can be used but I personally recommend a dual action, top feed airbrush for this purpose.
As for paints, I personally recommend the Golden Fluid acrylics mixed with their airbrush medium. These paints are very wash resistant and will hold up well over time.
A common question asked about plush airbrushing is how it affects the texture. A lot of this depends on application and paints used. When applied correctly airbrushing can have minimal impact on texture, but it will always have a slight change to the unbeatable fluffiness of minky. Paint applied on in thick layers can be crusty but again this is dependent on how the artist has applied it and shouldn’t be assumed to be the norm.
For more info check out:
Airbrushing basics tutorial: https://gum.co/SVqVQ
Advanced airbrushing tutorial:https://gum.co/wGjV
Confidence starting out:
Starting out can be daunting, your first plush you make will likely not look as good as experienced makers. Remember that everyone has to start off somewhere, and the more time you put into it the better your results will be. Just like I couldn’t go and run a marathon tomorrow, but I potentially could after training and persistence.
It can take years to make plush to the level of people you admire, if you are really determined you will stick with it. Every plush you make is a learning experience and will help you get better bit by bit.
I would recommend not taking on commissions too early in your plushmaking journey. I see a lot of people take them almost straight away, before they have an understanding of the basics. Wait until your plush are structurally sound and you are confident in your abilities. You don’t have to take commissions at all if you don’t desire. Turning plushmaking into work can make your enthusiasm for the hobby wane just like any job, so examine whether you would rather keep it as your fun pastime or make it into ‘work’.
I would highly recommend joining the Plush Artists United facebook group to have access to their huge range of guides available. They are also a great help for any questions you may be struggling with.
Where to find me and additional tutorials
I hope you guys found this useful and got something out of this guide. You can find me at
facebook.com/nazfx_studios
instagram.com/nazfx_studios
twitter.com/nazfx_studios
You can find my large library of video tutorials at:
gumroad.com/nazegoreng
And you can see my 2500+ WIP/tip/trick posts as well as get monthly patterns and tutorials at:
patreon.com/nazfx_studios
End
Hope this has helped a bunch of you, please feel free to share on social media and tag any friends that may find this useful. Where possible please retweet/reblog etc my original posts about this document. Good luck!