You’ll need a few sheets of printer paper, lots of 1” width scrap strips (none have to be long than 3 ¾” or so) and four 4 ½” white squares and finally four 3 ⅜” white squares.
Start by cutting a piece of paper 3 ¼” wide by 7 ¾” long.
Fold in half lengthwise to find the center.
Open back up and fold in half widthwise to find center.
Leaving it folded, mark lines from bottom corners (where it’s folded) up to top center as seen.
Cut and open up. This will be the foundation for the paper piecing for one point thingamajig of the star.
Mark a line in the center then one above ¼” as seen.
Place a 1” wide scrap strip, right side up, with one raw edge lined up against that top line you marked. Be sure that it is long enough to cover the edges of the paper--you’ll be trimming the excess fabric off later.
Now pin another scrap strip on top of that, wrong side up and raw edges lined up at the top.
Set your machine stitch length to 1. This helps you remove the paper easier later on.
Stitch ¼” from raw edge.
Press that top strip open/up then pin another strip along top raw edge. Stitch again.
Repeat so you see a total of six strip in front of you.
Rotate the diamond and do the other side. You should have a total of 10 strips on your diamond.
Now we’ll do the ends of the diamond. I use pieces that are at least 1 ¾” wide to cover the whole point. Making the ends bigger means you won’t be left with little tiny piece after you factor in the seam allowances.
Flip over. You can see how the fabric is larger than the paper.
Now trim the excess fabric off, either with a ruler and rotary cutter or a pair of scissors.
Start ripping the paper off carefully. It’s smart work from the outsides in.
Now you have one diamond/point thingamajig of the star. You can make a second one at this point.
Grab one 4 ½” white square and one 3 ⅜” white square and cut in half diagonally--along with the two diamonds you made, they will make up one quarter of your block.
With the small triangle, place and pin as seen.
Set stitch length back to 2 on your machine.
Stitch along edge mentioned in previous step’s photo. I like to have the patchworked side up so that I can be sure the seam allowances lay flat when I stitch over them.
Iron seam allowance open. As you can see, the edge of the right there is nice and straight and lined up.
Now place the larger triangle on top and pin as seen. Again it’s ok to have excess on the on area. This time you’ll be lining up the right angle/corner. Stitch ¼” seam allowance.
Press open seam allowance.
Now you to do the opposite for the other triangle, so that you can create a square (which is one quarter of your block.) I think it’s smart to lay the pieces out as seen, so that you know what you’re doing.
Now you’ll stitch the small triangle onto the diamond like you did before but on the opposite side.
Press seam allowance open.
Stitch the large triangle on like you did before but on the opposite side.
Press seam allowance open.
Now pin the two triangles together, lining up seams along that long raw edge. Stitch.
Press seam allowance open. And you have the first quarter of your block done!
Repeat all steps three more times.
Finally finish up the block by stitching those four quarters together. (Start by stitching the top two together and the bottom two together. Then stitch the top and bottom together.)
After completing this block, you should change your needle because sewing through paper dulls it quicker.