Made by Kaci Karrick
Welcome to Your Ball Python Guide!
Whether you’re a first-time reptile owner or just looking to learn more about ball pythons, this guide is here to help. Ball pythons are one of the most popular pet snakes—and for good reason. They’re calm, manageable in size, and have beautiful patterns and colors.
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to know about caring for your ball python, including setting up their habitat, feeding tips, handling advice, and how to keep them happy and healthy. With the right care and attention, your ball python can be a fascinating and rewarding companion for many years to come.
Let’s get started on your journey into the world of ball python care!
Introduction
Ball pythons are native to West and Central Africa. They’re most commonly found in countries like Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, and Uganda. In the wild, they live in grasslands, savannas, and sparsely wooded areas, where they can hide in burrows, termite mounds, or underbrush to stay cool and feel secure. They can also be found in trees when hunting!
Their name “ball python” comes from their natural defense behavior—they curl up into a tight ball when they feel threatened, tucking their head in the center for protection.
In the wild, they inhabit semi-arid grasslands and savannas in parts of Africa. These regions are typically warm with distinct wet and dry seasons. While it’s not as dry as a desert, the environment isn’t super humid either—so their natural habitat has moderate humidity levels (around 60-70%, rising to 80-100% during shedding season). It’s important though when having loose substrate that their bedding is NOT sopping wet.
Quarantine
Quarantine means keeping your new ball python separate from other animals for a while—usually at least 30 to 90 days.
Why do it?
To make sure your new snake isn’t sick or carrying parasites before introducing it to a main enclosure or other reptiles.
During quarantine, you should:
• Keep the setup simple (paper towels, hides, water bowl)
• Watch for signs of illness (not eating, mites, weird poop, wheezing)
• Wash hands and tools after handling
It helps keep your snake—and any others you have—safe and healthy.
What should be in their enclosure during this time?
•Paper towel - Changed daily
•Large water dish - Cleaned daily
•At least 3 hides ( More the better as long as you can clean them) and fake plants (Plastic).
What can I use to clean the enclosure & decor?
There are a few options.
These cleaners kill almost all parasites & illness.
Ball Python size ( Female vs Male )
There seems to be a huge misinformation about size. Male ball pythons are said to only stick to 2.5 - 3 feet long. This information is not correct, male ball pythons can succeed up to 4 feet long and larger but they can definitely only succeed 3ft this really depends on genetics too. I have seen males get close enough to 4.5 feet long. Females typically are said to stick around 5-6 feet long on average. The minimum size for a male ball python is a 4 foot long x 2 foot wide x 2 foot high Enclosure and for a female is 5 feet long x 2 feet wide x 2 feet high. These minimums do change with science research on these species.
Bigger will always be suggested for both genders & Babies do just fine as long as it’s properly cluttered & proper husbandry can be housed in full grown enclosures.
Lighting (Daytime)
While Ball Pythons generally are more active during night and are said to be Nocturnal they are actually considered being Crepuscular, Ball pythons still deserve the right to be provided with a daytime and nighttime cycle. When picking out a basking bulb which is also called Daytime bulb, you need one that emits white light & heat. Approved brands consist of Thrive, Exo Terra, Flukers, Arcadia, and more. Colored bulbs such as red, blue, black, purple, are not acceptable. This is dangerous usage that can damage their eyesight. Reptiles do see more colors than we can. When we speak about Linear UVB, A linear UVB is a type of UVB light bulb that comes in a long tube shape, similar to a fluorescent light. It’s designed to provide even, wide UVB coverage across your reptile’s enclosure. UVB is important for supporting D3 synthesis, Boosting immune health, and Encouraging more natural behaviors such as basking or cryptic basking.
Linear UVB types
Reptile Lighting Group on Facebook is highly recommended when setting up your lighting for any species. However —
Arcadia 7% and 6% are acceptable UVB’s to use. These range $59.99 and up.
Zoomed Reptisun 5.0 BULB T5 are acceptable.
Zoomed Fixture that runs $59.99 and up depending on length of the linear UVB, the arcadia bulb CAN be used in a Zoomed fixture and VISE VERSA.
Exo Terra Linear UVB is also Acceptable.
Albino Ball Pythons
There is a misconception that albino ball pythons or albino reptiles in general cannot have UVB or a basking bulb due to the sensitivity to their eyes - this is somewhat false. Due to the sensitivity and lack of melanin in their eyes and skin, you’d need a low percentage UVB. You’d still provide a basking bulb but you’d need the proper lighting for them. For a Albino ball python you’d typically use a Zoomed Reptisun 5.0 T5 UVB or 6% arcadia UVB.
Light Schedule
Daytime light is suggested to run 12 hours on and 12 hours off. This can be done manually or setting up a timer for your lights is highly recommended. Make sure your timer is a surge protector.
Lighting ( nighttime )
People have been told that reptiles need a red bulb during nighttime, which is highly dangerous and untrue. Red bulbs are dangerous to reptiles because they can mess up their sleep and stress them out.
• Stress
• Lack of proper rest
• Weakened immune system
• Loss of appetite
When needing a nighttime bulb this is considered by the temperature of your enclosure at nighttime with all lighting off. If your temperature falls below 75 degrees at nighttime with absolutely no basking bulb on, you’d get a ceramic heat emitter. There is a new bulb on the market called a Deep Heat Projector to be said to be better than a ceramic heat emitter, which is also untrue. This DHP is basically a middle ground between a ceramic heat emitter and a basking bulb. This DHP heats up so deeply it mimics a basking bulb at nighttime when our reptiles are supposed to sleep, rather they stay up and bask. This bulb when it heats up in the emitter in the middle it does emit a small bit of red light, which has been known to not be so bothersome, but just to keep into consideration that does happen. Reptile Lighting On facebook is a great source to research about ceramic heat emitters & DHP. We want to heat the air, not the animal.
Enclosure Types
When picking out an enclosure for your Ball Python there are a few key factors to look for before purchasing.
•Size - Is the enclosure the dimension correct and enough space for your snake to fully stretch out and move around?
•Secured lids, doors, or entryways. Are your doors allowed to be locked securely?
•Good Ventilation- Ventilation is EXTREMELY important when it comes to Ball Pythons, due to mid - high humidity species & their bedding. Without good ventilation your bedding can mold & cause respiratory issues. Solid top is to have vents, PVC enclosures have meshed tops, Glass has meshed tops, Grow tents must have modified lids.
•Is your material meant for this species? When looking at a material it needs to handle high humidity & temps. Wooden enclosures (hand made) without being sealed is a No Go. PVC, Glass, Grow Tents, large acceptable sized totes, are acceptable.
•Is your enclosure going to be easily accessible? When picking out an enclosure for your ball python you’d rather want a front opening rather than top opening, This is to reduce defensive behavior from being afraid of your hand going over their heads. This also helps with bonding.
•Lighting compatibility- Is your enclosure able to house lighting internally or externally? Internally needs to be at a safe and proper distance away from your snake & your lights must be caged. Rule of thumb with a basking bulb ( depending on wattage too) 8-12” or more away if you can properly succeed their temperatures. Cages are a need for internal lighting, no exceptions.
Enclosure sizes for hatchling / Juvenile
While reptile keepers say a 20 gal (30”x12”x12”) this size is acceptable — I highly recommend starting out at least in a 40-50 gallon enclosure this is a 36x18x18 and preferably a front opening enclosure. This size can succeed at proper ambient and gradient temperatures properly without a hassle. You’re not going to have issues unless your snake is ill, not enough clutter, hides, and your sides aren’t covered on the enclosure. Sometimes ball pythons do have a hard time adjusting, time and patience is key.
Temperature and Humidity
There is a lot of information about temperature and humidity for ball pythons, but this is the correct temps.
All lighting should be connected to timers and thermostats to make sure their basking spots do not succeed 95 degrees. Typically people say 93 should be the minimum temperature for a basking spot, that’s totally up to your snake's body language. In the wild it goes up to 105 degrees fahrenheit.
Basking spot, hot side & Cool side
These are all parts of a temperature gradient that reptiles need in their enclosures to stay healthy, since they can’t regulate their body temperature internally like mammals do. Here’s what each term means:
1. Basking Spot
• What it is: The warmest area in the enclosure, directly under a heat source (like a heat lamp). This would mean a solid hide, not a hammock. You can use slates & rocks too, cork barks.
• Purpose: Allows the reptile to warm up quickly by absorbing heat ( Proper Belly heat )
• Temperature: Depends on the species, but for many reptiles, it’s around 85°F–110°F (29°C–43°C).
• A basking spot is measured with a digital infrared thermometer gun, measuring the surface temperature. This cannot be measured with a regular thermometer because these measure AIR ( ambient temps ) not the surface.
2. Hot Side
•What it is: The general area around the basking spot; it’s warm but not as hot as the exact basking point.
•Purpose: Provides a warm zone for digestion and comfort without needing to be directly under the heat.
•Temperature: Typically 80°F–90°F (27°C–32°C) depending on the species.
3. Cool Side
•What it is: The opposite end of the enclosure from the basking spot.
•Purpose: Gives the reptile a place to cool down if it gets too warm.
• Temperature: Usually 70°F–80°F (21°C–27°C).
Having a gradient from hot to cool lets reptiles self-regulate their body temperature by moving between zones as needed. This is crucial for their digestion, immune function.
All lights should be on thermostats.
Heat Mats are a no.
1. Inconsistent heating
• Heat mats only warm a small spot directly above them, and don’t evenly heat the air in the enclosure, which ball pythons need to properly regulate their body temp.
2. No control over ambient temps
• Ball pythons need both a warm surface and warm air (ambient temperature). A heat mat doesn’t do much for the air, leaving the enclosure too cold overall.
3. Risk of burns
• Without a thermostat, heat mats can get dangerously hot and cause serious belly burns, even if you can’t feel it with your hand.
4. Doesn’t mimic natural behavior
• In the wild, ball pythons warm up from overhead heat (like the sun warming the ground), not just from heat underneath. They expect warmth from above, not just their belly.
5. Humidity problems
• Heat mats dry out the substrate right above them, which can make it hard to maintain the higher humidity ball pythons need (around 50–60%, or higher during shed).
6. Reliance on thermostats
• Heat mats must be used with a thermostat. If the thermostat fails or isn’t used properly, the mat can overheat quickly and become dangerous.
7. Limited heating area
• Ball pythons often need a full thermal gradient (warm side and cool side). A small heat mat can’t create that properly across the whole enclosure.
Overall, a deep heat projector, a radiant heat panel, or even a low-wattage overhead heat source (like a ceramic heat emitter or halogen bulb with a thermostat) is much safer and better at mimicking natural conditions.
Thermometers/Hygrometers & Thermostats
When looking for thermometers, reptile shops typically sell analogs, which is not recommended to use. We want to use digital thermometers & hygrometers due to 100% accuracy than analogs. Amazon has a wide selection, the most reliable and popular is Govee.
Use digital thermometers and hygrometers for reptiles because:
1. More accurate – They give precise readings, which is important for your reptile’s health.
2. Easier to read – Numbers are clear and instant.
3. Measure both warm and cool sides – Many digital ones have probes for different spots.
4. Track humidity better – Digital hygrometers respond faster to changes.
Analog ones can be off by a lot and are slow to update, which can lead to unsafe temps or humidity for your reptile.
Thermostats
Thermostats are important for reptiles because:
1. Keep temperatures safe – They prevent the heat source from getting too hot or too cold.
2. Protect your reptile’s health – Reptiles need a stable temperature to digest, move, and stay healthy.
3. Prevent burns or overheating – Without a thermostat, heat mats or bulbs can get dangerously hot.
4. Save energy – Thermostats turn off the heat when it’s not needed.
Basically, they help keep your reptile’s environment safe and stable. Popular brands are Vivarium electrictronics, Zoomed ReptiTemp, Exo Terra Reptitemp Thermostat, Herpstat Thermostats. All heat sources should be on thermostats and timers!
Substrate for ball pythons
It’s a misconception that Ball Pythons can use aspen bedding. Aspen bedding is a form of a bedding made from aspen that is marketed for snakes. However, this is a bad bedding to use for humid species. Ball Pythons need moderate - high humidity, which aspen bedding is a bad choice. Better choices include
•Organic Top soil, Forest Floor, Coco Chips, Sphagnum Moss. When looking for a top soil to use you need to make sure it is. This mix is excellent for bioactive and cheaper.
•Fertilizer free
•Manure Free
•Additives Free
•Peat Moss is fine.
Other options are
•Coco chips, sphagnum moss, and topsoil mix.
•Bioactive substrates such as Terra Firma from Biodude.
Misting vs watering substrate manually
People typically mist ball pythons which can be harmful to their respiratory systems & overall health. Misting your enclosure can cause build up of bacteria, mold issues, and unwanted health issues. When watering your substrate instead of misting there are a few key factors to keep in mind to make sure your substrate is not too wet.
Substrate minimum amount is 4 inches high, more the better.
•Watering & sifting through your substrate is important to make sure there is no potential mold build up below the substrate and gnat issues. When watering your substrate you simply pour a little bit at a time, I prefer to use warm water and mix very thoroughly. Don’t pour too much in then you’re going to flood your enclosure and cause bigger issues and scale rot.
• When trying to figure out if your substate is DAMP. Not wet, not sopping wet, not too dry.. after you’ve mixed & watered, periodically take some substrate, scrunch it into both hands and form a snowball. This is the best way I have figured out how to make sure I have enough moisture.
•This is a daily chore, but making sure your humidity stays consistent for a long while, sifting your substrate is highly recommended as a daily chore for you. I typically do this 2-3x a week. My humidity stays above 70% for 2 weeks. This also really depends on where you live. If your home is typically too dry, your enclosure will be too dry. If your home is too humid, you’re going to have humidity issues or perfect humidity depending on species. Looking into humidifiers or dehumidifiers for the room only, not for the enclosure itself can be helpful if you still have issues.
Scale rot & Treatment at home
Scale rot (also called blister disease) is a bacterial or fungal infection that affects the scales and skin of reptiles—often caused by poor husbandry, like dirty enclosures, too much humidity, or constantly wet substrate.
What It Looks Like:
• Discolored scales (reddish, brown, yellow, or black)
Bad cases that need veterinary assistance.
• Swollen or soft spots on the belly or sides
• Blisters or open sores
• Bad smell from the affected area
• The area may feel mushy or look crusty
Common Causes:
• Dirty substrate
• Constantly damp or wet environment
• Poor ventilation
• Inadequate heat (can suppress immune system)
At-Home Treatment (Mild Cases):
Note: If it’s advanced (open wounds, bad smell, spreading fast), a reptile vet is needed—home care won’t be enough.
1. Quarantine & Clean
• Move your snake to a sterile enclosure with paper towels as substrate.
• Keep it warm and dry (correct temps, with a solid basking spot).
2. Disinfect the Affected Area (1x/day):
• Gently clean with diluted Betadine (povidone-iodine) and warm water (tea-colored mix).
• Pat dry with a clean towel or paper towel.
3. Topical Treatment:
• Apply a triple antibiotic ointment like Neosporin (WITHOUT pain relief) to the affected area.
• Alternatively, some keepers use silver sulfadiazine cream (SSD) if they have access to it (vet-prescribed).
4. Keep the Enclosure Immaculate:
• Spot clean daily.
• Replace paper towels regularly.
• Avoid excess humidity—keep things dry while healing.
5. Monitor for Improvement:
• You should start to see healing within a week.
• If it spreads, smells worse, or your snake stops eating—get to a reptile vet ASAP.
Decoration & Climbing
When decorating your ball python enclosure here are a few tricks I find very successful.
•More than 3 hide selections. When providing more than 3 selections, our ball pythons come out of curiosity and try to find another home to hide in, this allows your ball python to start becoming more adventurous and out more often. More than 3 also helps a lot with stress especially when coming out of a breeding rack. Make sure your hides are big enough for your snake, not having big enough hides can lead to abrasions to their skin and cause harm.
•Clutter is very important. In reptile care, “clutter” refers to the items inside an enclosure that help a reptile feel safe, secure, and hidden. It’s not a mess—it’s actually a good thing!
Clutter Can Include:
• Fake or real plants
• Branches and vines
• Multiple hides
• Pieces of cork bark
• Rocks or safe decor
•Climbing opportunities - when we speak about ball pythons to other keepers they refer to them as ground dwelling reptiles which is half true, however when given the opportunity they will certainly take that opportunity especially at nighttime - to explore their new surroundings. This is a good thing! Providing climbing also reduces fat, obesity, better their muscles, and health. When providing branches and such, don’t make them far too high, because that could potentially be a fall hazard. Just keep it low to the ground.
Decoration - Humid Hide
A humid hide is a small hideout in your snake’s enclosure that stays warm and moist inside. It helps your snake shed properly and stay hydrated.
What’s Inside:
• A small container or hide box
• Filled with damp moss or paper towels
Why It’s Important:
• Helps prevent stuck shed
• Gives your snake a cozy, moist place to rest
• Mimics natural hiding spots found in the wild
Place it on the middle of the tank to keep the humidity up inside. Replace whatever you may use at least once a week for paper towel & once a week for moss, do it daily if yours defecates in the hide to reduce risks of illness.
Covering sides of your enclosure
If you have see-through enclosures such as Glass, you will need to cover the 3 sides of your enclosure due to security for your snake. Being out in the open due to lack of cover can cause stress. You can use black construction paper or black vinyl externally of the enclosure. This includes the back and both sides.
Feeding ball pythons
This is a difficult topic to talk about because there is so much misinformation in facebook groups, online groups, care guides on google and reptile companies. However this is the rule of thumb of feeding a ball python. A lot of feeding guides feed WAY too often. Juveniles eat once a week, sub adults eat every 2-3 weeks and adults eat once a month. The weight of your feeder should not be under or over this amount. Your feeder should weigh 10-15% of your ball python's body weight to be correctly feeding your snake.
How do I measure this?
To feed your ball python the right size meal (10–15% of its body weight), follow these simple steps:
1. Weigh Your Snake
Use a digital kitchen scale or reptile scale.
• Example: If your ball python weighs 500 grams
2. Do the Math
• 10% of 500g = 50 grams
• 15% of 500g = 75 grams
So you’d look for a feeder (usually a rat or mouse) that weighs between 50–75 grams.
3. Weigh the Feeder
Frozen-thawed feeders usually come labeled by weight.
What else can Ball Pythons eat?
Ball pythons are strict carnivores and their diet in captivity should mostly consist of appropriately sized rodents. However, here’s a breakdown of what they can eat—and what to avoid:
Safe, Common Foods:
• Mice (best for young or small snakes)
• Rats (ideal for juveniles and adults)
• Multimammate mice (African soft furs) – closer to what they’d eat in the wild
Occasional Alternatives (not ideal long-term):
• Chicks – some snakes like them, but they’re not nutritionally complete for regular feeding
• Gerbils or hamsters – can be used to tempt picky eaters, but not often
• Quail – another option for variety, but not a staple
Foods to Avoid:
• Live prey ( – can injure your snake)
• Wild-caught animals (can carry parasites or diseases)
• Processed meats or human food – definitely not safe
Best Practice:
Stick to frozen-thawed rodents (properly thawed and warmed) to ensure safety and nutrition. Feeding them a consistent, high-quality diet is the key to a healthy ball python.
How to heat your feeder
Heating your feeder (frozen-thawed rodent) properly is important for safety and to make it more appealing to your ball python. Here’s how to do it step by step:
How to Heat a Feeder Safely:
1. Thaw It First
• Take the feeder out of the freezer and let it thaw in the fridge for a few hours or overnight.
• Or let it thaw at room temperature for a couple of hours (if feeding soon).
• Never microwave it—it can cook unevenly or explode.
2. Warm It Up Before Feeding
Once thawed, the feeder should feel warm (not hot) to the touch—about body temperature (90–100°F).
Best ways to warm it:
• Hot water method (most popular):
• Place the thawed rodent in a plastic bag (ziplock works).
• Submerge the bag in hot water (not boiling) for about 10–15 minutes.
• Dry the feeder with a paper towel before offering it to your snake.
• Heat lamp or hair dryer (carefully):
• Wave a hair dryer or place it under a lamp briefly to warm the surface—but avoid drying it out.
Why It Matters:
• A warm feeder smells more like a live animal, which **triggers your snake’s feeding response and reduces regurgitation when properly heated.
Can I handle my Ball Python after it ate?
No — Wait up to 48 hours to handle your snake due to the risks of regurgitating. Ball Pythons can take up to a week to fully digest their meals. Make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before & after handling if needed.
How can I handle my ball python?
When trying to handle your snake whether it’s new or not — It is important to have patience and be calm. Not remaining calm and No patience can lead to a bite for any species that feels intimidated by you. When handling your ball python here is key too
• choice based handling is one of the best ways to handle any species. This gives them the ability to choose if they want to be held. This can take a long time to succeed with your reptile but it’s important and rewarding forming that bond & comfortability with your reptile.
•When getting out your snake make sure to wash your hands before & after so you don’t smell like feeders or other animals, especially if you just handled another mammal or reptile.
•When picking up your snake make sure you scoop them up at their midsection, don’t go above their head, don’t pick them up by the neck or tail. This can lead to broken bones, a scared reptile & bites. Scoop them up gently. Be gentle, calm, and repeat sessions with your snake for 10-15 minutes. If they show that they are defensive or striking, put them back and try again when your snake becomes calm.
When identifying if your ball python is defensive here is some tips.
•Tighten Ball, they curl into a ball and don’t loosen up. They are trying to hide from you because they are afraid.
•Hissing, it is a clear warning that they do not want to be messed with right now. They are feeling uncomfortable and afraid. Rapid tongue flicking, fast & shallow flicks are also an indicator they are not happy with you.
•Striking or lunging. They are not doing this because they are “ Aggressive” they are simply defensive and afraid. This happens when they feel very threatened by you or another source.
•Stiff, Tense body language. They are not relaxed and rigid. They’re likely uncomfortable rather than defensive. You could keep them in your palms and allow them to roll out of ball form - or set them down.
Feeding in the enclosure and handling.
There is a lot of misinformation that feeding inside the snake's enclosure will develop a “mean snake”. This is false. When your snake chooses to make your hands a target when entering their enclosure this is a personal error and can be fixed. When a snake targets you as a “ prey” or a threat in their enclosure there is training you can do for your ball python to not associate your hands with food. Youtube has a lot of training videos such as tap training, noise training, and much more! they’re very beneficial and can do wonders for your snake. Feeding out of the enclosure and moving them after eating can cause regurgitation.
Regurgitating is when your snake throws up its food before it’s fully digested.
It usually happens because of:
• Handling too soon after feeding
• Temps too cold in the enclosure
• Stress or illness
It’s different from vomiting because the food looks whole and undigested.
What to Do:
• Give your snake at least 2 weeks to rest before trying to feed again.
• Fix the cause (heat, stress, etc.) before offering food.
Veterinary services & Ball Python
It’s important to take your ball python to the vet to make sure it stays healthy and happy.
Here’s why:
• Checkups catch problems early (like infections or parasites)
• Helps if your snake won’t eat, sheds badly, or acts weird
• A vet can check for respiratory issues, mouth rot, or weight loss
Even if your snake looks fine, a reptile vet can help prevent future issues and keep your ball python in great shape.
Not all vets are experienced and equipped to deal with exotics - Make sure when looking for a vet they are specialized in exotics!
Weighing your snake
Weighing your ball python is important because:
1. Tracks health – Sudden weight loss can be a sign of illness or stress.
2. Monitor growth – Helps you know if your snake is growing at a healthy rate.
3. Feeds properly – Weight helps you choose the right size and frequency of meals.
4. Checks for issues – Losing weight during a fast is normal, but too much means something might be wrong.
Regular weighing helps you catch problems early and keep your snake healthy. You would use a reptile scale / Kitchen scale and weigh in grams. If your ball will not stay balled up on the scale you can use this method.
•Weigh a tupperware on the scale
•Write down that weight in grams, add snake inside.
•Weigh both, write down the weight. Minus the weight you took before with the tupperware by itself from the weight with both snake & tupperware.
Example
Tupperware weighed 50 grams, added snake into the tupperware and ended up weighing 200 grams.
200-50=150 grams is your final weight.
Feeding strikes
Reptile keepers have said that Ball pythons are typical with feeding strikes. A feeding strike is when your ball python is not eating on its own, refuses meals & is uninterested for a long period of time. A lot of keepers are unaware that sometimes this strike can mean various kinds of things that can actually be very harmful. It is true that a strike can happen especially during Brumation & Mating season, however you do need to look at other factors before deciding it’s a natural strike.
Here is a few factors that can cause strikes
•Temperature & Humidity is not correct.
•Sickness, RI issues, internal issues such as Parasites.
•Severe Stress, like being brand new or stressful environments, not enough clutter and/or hides.
•Shedding - Sometimes during shed they are uninterested in food.
•Wrong food, wrong size, and Heated wrong.
•Breeding season, during November to March.
•Brumation happens in the colder months - Late fall to spring. They don’t fully brumate like other species, they normally would just slow down in meals, move less, and hide more. Usually when you see this happening with other species during the cooler months you would need a fecal exam and a wellness check to ensure they have no parasites. If your snake is showing these signs but it’s not Brumation time — Seek veterinary attention.
New Ball Python & Handling
You have just gotten a new ball python and you’re excited to hold them but you don’t know if it’s appropriate too. It is a rule of thumb with any snakes to give them acclimation time to their new enclosure & environment. A lot of keepers get their new snakes from other owners from a bad background, you may have purchased from a breeder and they lived in a breeder rack, or from a shelter. It is important Not to handle for at least 2-3 weeks and then start choice based handling. It is okay to check on your snake, especially their scales and overall health during this time, but a long period of time handling can really stress them out in their new home. Bothering them too early while they’re feeling vulnerable can really mess up a future bond and a lot of work will need to be adjusted for your snake to feel comfortable after being forced to be handled constantly with being brand new.
You can spend time with your snake by their doors at the front of the enclosure and talk to them in a soft tone. I would refrain from moving things around that can potentially make them feel unsafe, Highly recommend the enclosure to be all set up prior to your snake.
How often should I clean my enclosure?
This answer is : Daily.
You should be checking up on your snake & seeing anything needs to be cleaned, your substrate needs to be sifted (This is in the substrate part of the document).
Picking up any feces immediately especially if you are Non Bioactive.
“Bioactive” means something that supports or interacts with life. In pet enclosures (like for reptiles), a bioactive setup is one that mimics nature. It includes live plants, bugs like springtails and isopods (clean-up crew), and natural soil. These parts work together to keep the habitat clean and healthy, like a mini-ecosystem.
Can I have Isopods & spring tails without plants?
This is possible, however you’d need to feed your Clean up crew! Having isopods & spring tails would act as an ecosystem as said before and they clean up any feces and dead matter for you, however if you don’t have enough CUC you also need to work as a team and clean it up too, don’t leave big piles in there.
For a ball python setup, you want isopods that can handle warmth and humidity. Here are good choices:
1. Powder Orange or Powder Blue Isopods – active, fast breeders, great cleaners
2. Dwarf White Isopods – small, hide well, good if you don’t want them super visible
3. Tropical Dwarf Isopods – love humidity, stay hidden
Avoid desert species—they don’t do well in humid enclosures. Pair them with springtails for the best clean-up crew combo.
What do I feed my clean up crew?
You can feed springtails and isopods:
• Fish flakes or yeast (for springtails)
• Leaf litter, rotting wood, and vegetable scraps (for isopods)
They also eat poop, mold, and dead plants in the tank, helping keep it clean.
They also need a mossy area to get their hydration, keep it moist.
Bioactive
What kind of plants can I use if I were to go Bioactive?
This is a good question and a somewhat limited selection.
Here are some good plants for a ball python bioactive setup — they’re hardy, low-maintenance, and safe:
1. Pothos (Devil’s Ivy) – super tough, grows fast
2. Snake Plant (Sansevieria) – tall, sturdy, and easy to care for
3. Philodendron – low light friendly, great coverage
This one is a little Iffy because of sap. I would research further.
4. Spider Plant – easy to grow, non-toxic
5. Bromeliads – add color, don’t need much soil
6. Peperomia – compact and safe
7. Ferns ( Boston Ferns) - Good for Humidity
Grow Lights
I highly recommend grow- lights for your enclosure.
Arcadia Jungle Dawn or Barrina grow lights.
What is morphs?
Ball python morphs are genetic variations that result in different colors, patterns, or combinations of both in ball pythons (Python regius). These variations are caused by mutations in the genes that control pigmentation and patterning. Breeders selectively breed snakes with specific morphs to produce unique-looking offspring.
There are hundreds of morphs, and they can be simple (caused by a single gene) or complex (combos of multiple morphs). Some examples:
• Albino – lacks dark pigment, resulting in a bright yellow and white snake with red eyes.
• Piebald – has random white patches on the body mixed with normal coloration.
• Banana – features yellow and lavender coloration with small black spots.
• Spider – a wacky, web-like pattern; often associated with a neurological issue called “wobble.”
• Pastel – brighter and more vibrant than normal ball pythons, often used in combos.
You can also get designer morphs, like the “Blue-Eyed Leucistic”, which is all white with blue eyes, created by combining two morphs like Mojave and Lesser.
Spider Morph - Wobble Syndrome or Swimmers Ear
Wobble syndrome (also called “spider wobble” or “neurological wobble”) is a neurological condition seen in certain ball python morphs—most notoriously in the Spider morph. It affects the snake’s coordination and balance, but not their lifespan or ability to eat (in most cases).
Symptoms of Wobble Syndrome:
• Head tilting or twisting (called “corkscrewing”)
• Difficulty striking prey accurately
• Inability to right itself when flipped over
• Uncontrolled, shaky movements (especially when excited or stressed)
Morphs Known to Carry Wobble Syndrome:
This syndrome is genetically linked to the Spider gene, and unfortunately, it cannot be bred out without removing the gene entirely. It’s believed to be inherently tied to the gene that causes the pattern, so all snakes carrying this gene will have some degree of wobble or none at all. Morphs that contain the Spider gene include:
• Spider (base morph)
• Bumblebee (Spider + Pastel)
• Killerbee (Super Pastel + Spider)
• Spinner (Spider + Pinstripe)
• Spinner Blast (Spinner + Pastel)
• Honeybee (Spider + Ghost)
• Stinger Bee (Spider + Enchi)
And any other combo morphs that include Spider or its derivatives.
Not ALL of these morphs may or may not have wobble syndrome, there are cases where a few have never shown signs of wobble syndrome and live great lives.
It is unethical to purchase outright & Breed them. Please rescue instead.
Lots of keepers suggest keeping their enclosure as a low profile while still providing the best for them & enrichment. Keeping things low to the ground is suggested just in case of falls & injuries especially when cork screwing.
How to feed a “picky” eater
Feeding a picky ball python can be a bit of a challenge since they’re known to be fussy eaters at times. Here are some tips that usually help:
1. Check the Basics First
• Temperature & Humidity: Keep the warm side at 86–92°F and the cool side around 72–80°F. Humidity should be about 60% and up.
• Hides: Make sure there are snug hides on both sides so your snake feels secure.
• Handling: Avoid handling for a few days before feeding. Stress can cause them to refuse food.
2. Try Different Prey Presentations
• Live vs. Frozen/Thawed: Some picky eaters will only take live prey. If you feed frozen/thawed, warm it up (to around 90–100°F) so it feels more “alive” to the snake.
• Movement: Use tongs to wiggle the prey realistically. Some snakes need to see movement to strike.
• Pre-scenting: Place the prey item in the enclosure for 15–30 mins to let the scent circulate before offering it.
3. Vary Prey Type or Size
• Try different prey animals:
• Rats vs. Mice (some prefer one over the other)
• ASF (African Soft-Furred Rats) if you can find them – many ball pythons love them
• Try a smaller prey item if your snake seems intimidated by the current size.
4. Feed at Night
Ball pythons are Crepuscular. Offer food in the evening or night when they’re more active and naturally in hunting mode.
5. Scenting Tricks
You can scent the prey by:
• Rubbing it with the bedding of a mouse/ASF if they’re used to that smell
• Dipping the prey in chicken broth or tuna water (weird, but has worked for some)
6. Last Resorts
• Braining: Poke a hole in the skull of a frozen/thawed rodent to release scent. Gross, but can work.
• Assist feeding: Only if your snake is losing weight and hasn’t eaten in weeks. It’s stressful and should be done carefully. This method should ONLY BE DONE BY A VETERINARIAN AND OR/EXPERIENCED HANDLER ONLY THIS CAN BE HARMFUL.
Cats, Dogs, & Reptiles.
It can be dangerous for your cat or dog to interact with your reptiles for a few reasons:
1. Predator instinct – cats and dogs might see reptiles as prey and try to bite or play rough.
2. Stress – reptiles get easily stressed by fast movement or loud noises, which can make them sick.
3. Injury risk – even a playful paw or nip can seriously hurt a reptile.
4. Disease spread – reptiles can carry salmonella, which can be passed to pets (and humans).
5. Cross-contamination – dogs or cats might bring in bacteria or parasites that are harmful to reptiles.
Enclosure Sizes
Juveniles are acceptable in both “baby enclosure” which I recommend no smaller than a 36x18x18 front opening enclosure or even better purchasing a 4x2x2, set it up correctly and have that as a grow out enclosure and you won’t need to constantly upgrade until they are completely done growing.
Males should be in a 4x2x2 (120 gal) as an adult, however if your male is larger than 4 feet then you’ll need a 5x2x2 or even larger.
Females need to be 5x2x2 or even larger depending on size. There has been records of females reaching up to 6ft long, so bigger is needed
Stress
If your ball python is stressed and occasionally bites, it’s important to address both its environment and your handling habits. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help reduce stress and build trust:
1. Check the Environment
Ball pythons are very sensitive to their surroundings. Stress often comes from improper setup.
• Temperature: Keep the warm side at 86-90° F and the cool side at 72–80°F
• Humidity: Maintain 60% and up humidity, slightly higher during shedding. (80% and up).
• Hides: Provide at least 3 snug hides (one on each side of the enclosure) so it feels secure.
• 2. Handling Tips
Reduce interactions that could cause fear:
• Avoid handling after feeding (wait 48 hours).
• Don't handle during shedding unless you absolutely need to — this process is stressful for them and they can’t see very well. Most keepers will not feed while in the shed too, this is okay to do but if they’re due for a feeding and they will take it, it is okay to feed as well.
Reptiles in Tents & Ethical Keeping is MY Facebook group if you’d like to join and learn about how to customize / modify a Grow Tent as a housing mechanism for many species — All questions prior to joining must all be completed with “ Ok, I agree, or Yes”. No answer is not acceptable and results in a decline.
Should I be misting my ball python?
The simple answer is don’t be repetitive. I personally find having a very hefty mix of deep substrate, a good enclosure material helps a ton with humidity plus having live plants helps too, because you have to water them periodically. Misting ball pythons a ton can absolutely cause respiratory issues due to mold, bacteria build up and repetitive drops in humidity. The best thing to do is water your substrate once every 2 weeks however this may not work for everybody.
If you live in a hot and humid environment you’re more likely to have a very humid enclosure and have no issues at all, however if you live in Michigan for example that’s not very humid all year around like Texas, you may have issues with humidity staying consistent. Adding a humidifier to the room your enclosure is located in can help you and your snake if your home is too dry, and if your home is too humid you’d get a dehumidifier for the area. The environment where the enclosure is placed can cause an issue and a lot of people don’t consider this.
Adopt or shop?
I am all for adopting and shop responsibility. If you are looking to adopt, make sure you are aware of potential health issues the snake can have from their previous home. If you’re looking to shop for a ball python be wary of all the spider genes and do not support those who do breed with spider genes. If you scroll up to “Morphs that carry the spider gene” this will help you, but also the market for ball pythons is absolutely saturated. It is 100% a personal preference.
Fake plants bad?
The use of plastic (fake) plants in reptile enclosures is common, but there are pros and cons depending on the species and setup. Here’s the breakdown for reptiles like bearded dragons, snakes, and other terrestrial or arboreal species:
When Plastic Plants Are OK (and Why):
1. Safe if properly chosen:
• Reptile-safe plastic plants (made for terrariums) are generally non-toxic and safe to use.
• These are made without harmful chemicals like phthalates or BPA that can leach in heat/humidity.
2. Easy to clean:
• Plastic plants can be sanitized regularly using hot water or diluted reptile-safe disinfectants.
• They don’t mold or rot like real plants in warm, humid enclosures.
3. Adds enrichment and cover:
• Provides visual barriers, reducing stress (especially for babies or shy species).
• Helps mimic a more natural-looking habitat.
It is 100% a personal preference there is no shame in wanting to just use fake plants if you don’t have a green thumb.