Mobious Robotics LLC.
sE1X v1.5 Build Tutorial
made by: papabur
with many contributions by: LoneTengu
(Last Updated: 10/21/15)
(UPDATES COMING SOON - 2016-02-27)
::Y Axis Assembly::
Required Hardware & Electronics:
Required printed parts:
(2) 485mm Y Axis Extrusions
(4) printer supports
(2) 330mm X Axis Extrusions
(1) Y motor mount
(2) 465mm 10mm smooth rods
(1) M5 hex nut
(1) Lulzbot 300x300mm alum. plate
(4) IGUS 10mm polymer bearings
(1) Y belt gripper
(1) Borosilicate glass sheet
(4) corner brackets, 2 623zz bearings
(1) GT2 pulley
(4) 90 deg. angle brackets
(1) GT2 belt
(1) GT2 20 tooth pulley
(24) M3 hex nuts
(1) 290x290mm SIlicone Heater(attached to alum. heat spreader)
(36) T-slot nuts
(1) Nema 17 stepper motor
Now that you have the necessary parts together let’s start assembling!
First thing you will want to do is get everything organized and ready, ensuring you have everything you need to finish step 1.
You will want to start by assembling the Y axis frame with 2 Y axis and 2 X axis 2020 extrusions. Before you do this, there are a few printed parts that need prepared. Take the Y idler tensioner and place a M5 hex nut on the inside of the part. Once you have the hex nut in place, slide the Y Idler tensioner onto one of the X axis extrusions(This will be the front of the sE1X). The open side will be facing the back of the printer(shown below).
You will also want to go ahead and attach the Nema 17 stepper motor to the Y motor mount using 4 m3-8’s.
Connect 1 Y axis extrusion and 1 X axis extrusion into the shape of a L using the aluminum 90 deg brackets. Each one will take 2 M5-10 fasteners, 2 M5 washers for the bracket and 2 t-slot nuts, 1 in each extrusion. Point the smooth side of the t slot nut in toward the core of the extrusion so the bushing can grip properly. Repeat with other side.
(T-nut alignment: flat side facing out)
At this point you will want to put on the printer supports(feet) to determine top/bottom of your sE1X. Each printer support will require a M5-8 fastener, M5 washer and a M5 t-slot nuts.
The printer supports will be placed at the ends of each y axis extrusion to determine the “bottom” of your sE1X.
When you are done with these steps your parts should resemble figure 1 below:
Figure 1Figure 2
Where your T-slot Nuts go: (20151021-OpenY axis design not quite ready..)
2 and 2 for supports
2 and 2 for supports
Once you have all the T-nuts in place, go ahead and tighten down the corner brackets as shown in the above picture. Put on the 2 remaining printer supports (feet). Again each printer support will require a M5-8 fastener, M5 washer and a M5 t-slot nuts.
The printer supports will be placed at the ends of each y axis extrusion.
Attach the Nema 17 to the Y motor mount using 4 M3-8s plus 4 M3 washers.
Attach the Y-Motor Mount using M5-10 fasteners and M5 washers to the center 2(of the 4) T-nuts at BX-Slot 4. Once on, you may also go ahead and attach the GT2 20 tooth pulley to the stepper motor drive shaft, set screw side down(be sure to line up set screw with flat side of drive shaft)
Y Tensioner mounting instructions:
At this point go ahead and take 2 623zz bearings and put them in the y idler tensioner using a M3-45 fastener with a hex nut on the bottom side(as shown in photo on the right). Once you’ve done this, put the M5-45 in the back side(FX/Slot 2) of the tensioner and then use 2 M5-10s to place the bracket over the top side(FX/Slot 1) of the tensioner, picture below shows how it should look when you’re done(Be sure to center it before you tighten the bracket into place!).
Y motor mount mounting instructions:
Attach the GT2 pulley to the Nema 17 shaft and secure it with the M1.5 set-screws provided either in the bag or already in the pulley. Set screws should be closest to the motor block.
Y Build Plate:
Now for the bearings holders which will go to the base of the 300x300mm aluminum plate. Take each polymer bearing and center them up to the bottom of the bearing holders and push them in until they pop into place(takes a bit of force, if concerned with breaking, use a stovetop to heat the part up first.), do this with all 4. Once you have the polymer bearings in the bearing holders, you can now attach them to the bottom side of the aluminum plate using (4 each)M4-16 fasteners, M4 washers and M4 hex nuts, as shown below
(Tip: LEAVE THEM LOOSE UNTIL YOU PUT SMOOTH RODS THROUGH TO LINE THEM UP CORRECTLY!):
As seen above, you will want to go ahead and do the Y belt gripper which will take 2 M3-20’s,2 M3 washers and 2 M3 hex nuts. You may need to file the section where the belt slides in to ensure the GT2 belt will fit correctly..
Attach the heated bed corner brackets on the top of the aluminum plate using (2 each)M3-10s and M3 hex nuts on the top side of the build plate(opposite of the bearing holders!).
Once you have everything in place on the plate go ahead and slide the 10mm smooth rods through the polymer bearings and line them up evenly. Once you are positive they are lined up correctly, go ahead and tighten down the bearing holders. Now place the Y axis 10mm smooth rod holders on the ends of the 10mm smooth rod(as shown above). Place them on the X axis extrusions as shown in the picture to the left. At this point you will be attaching the GT2 belt, secure with zip-ties.(extra belt may need to be cut).
Using 2 zip-ties, get the belt reasonably tight around the center posts of the belt gripper. Once you have the belt secured to the belt gripper, go ahead and flip the sE1X over and tighten the belt the rest of the way using the M5-45 on the tensioner. You want it tight enough you can play it like a banjo.
This completes the Y axis section of your sE1X, Z Axis will be next up!
::Z Axis Assembly::
(2) Nema 17s
(23) T-slot nuts
(2) M5 threaded rods
(2) 8x370mm smooth rods
(2) 398mm 2020 Z extrusions
(1) Z ez adjust endstop mount
(2)165mm 2020 X extrusion
(4) IGUS 10mm polymer bearings
(2)M5 to M5 metal couplers
(1) mech. endstop
Take the Z axis bottom brackets and install the Z axis extrusions into them using 2 M5-10’s and 2 M5 T slot nuts, one on the front side(side facing front of sE1X), one on the opp. back side. You will want to make sure you align them correctly so that when you attach them to the Y axis 2020 extrusions, the Z axis motors will be facing toward the Y idler tensioner. On the same sides that you just put the Z upright T slots in, insert 1 more T-slot nut in each side(front and back for the Z printed tops). You will also need a T-slot on the inside of the left(X motor block side) Z axis extrusion(side closest to heated bed platform) for mounting the Z axis endstop.
[TIP: When it comes to the t-slot nuts, they can be tricky to get into place. I found that using a M5 screw to hold the t-slot nuts in place will make things easier when it comes to attaching the Z compact tops!!]
(The Z Axis and X Axis assembly merge at this point so I will do my best to split it up but parts of the X axis assembly need to be completed to complete Z axis assembly..at this point, we will begin assembly the X axis..)
:: X Axis Assembly ::
(2)10mm smooth rods
(1)Nema 17 stepper motor
(1) X axis carriage
(4)M5 hex nuts
(8)IGUS 10mm polymer bearings
(1) GT2 20 tooth pulley
(1)1100mm GT2 belt
(1)mech. endstop and
To start out the X axis, you will want to go ahead and get the printed parts ready. Slip the IGUS 10mm into the X motor and idler block(2 each) as well as the 3 for the X carriage which are held in place using 2 zip-ties per bearing(7 total). The X motor/idler block also require 2 M5 hex nuts for the threaded rod. Using the 2 X axis 8mm smooth rods, slip the X carriage onto them and then insert the smooth rods into the X motor and idler block. As shown in the above photo, you will want to slip the 8mm smooth rod through the X motor and idler block before putting the smooth rod in the Z axis uprights. Once you have the smooth rods in place, you can now attach the X axis assembly to the Z axis assembly by inserting the Z axis smooth rods into the Z uprights. Now attach a Nema-17 to the X motor block using 4 M3-16s.
With the X Motor and Idler block on the smooth rods, attach Z axis compact tops to secure the Z axis smooth rods in place. Now thread the M5 threaded rod through each X end until you are halfway into the coupler, tighten the couplers to the threaded rod.
[TIP: With ABS having a tendency to shrink 0.4-0.7% after cooling, you may need to file some of the smooth rod inserts to get a smoother fit.]
Mount the Z axis printed uprights to the side of the Y axis extrusions(as shown above). Each upright takes 5M5-10’s(3 on the sides, 2 on the bottom) to mount it to the Y axis extrusions and 2 more M5-10s for the Z axis extrusions. Once you have both uprights on, go ahead and put the nema 17’s on using 4 M3-6 fasteners per motor. Make sure that the motors are facing toward the Y axis idler a.k.a. the front of the sE1X! You may want to leave the uprights loose enough so that you can adjust them for alignment after you have finished putting the Z axis extrusions on.
With the last X axis extrusion, insert 2 t-slot nuts on the front side and 2 on the back side to mount to the Z compact tops. (Be sure you have the T-nuts in the Z axis extrusions for the Z compact tops and the 1 endstop before attaching the tops) At this point go ahead and attach the last extrusion to the top printed brackets using 4 M5-10’s(as shown in the picture to the left). You should now have something that resembles a E1X!! :D
:: Gantry Supports ::
(12)M5-10s, (2)M5-16s, (8)M3-16s
(2)150mm 2020 extrusions
Required Printed Parts:
(2)sE1X Gantry Support Z Axis braces(1 left, 1 right), (2)sE1X Gantry support Y axis braces(1 left, 1 right), (2)Gantry support Y axis brace clamps
These where designed with previous builders in mind so that they will clamp on without
having to disassemble anything.
Extruder assembly Video Tutorials:
:: Wade’s Extruder Assembly ::
Nema 17, M8 Hobbed bolt w/ nut(nyloc prefered), 3 608zz bearings
Required Printed Parts:
extruder body, idler bracket, big gear, small gear
:: AirTripper Bowden Extruder Assembly ::
For instructions on setting up your smoothieboard, please visit the Smoothieware website at:
:: Special Thanks ::
Special thanks to LoneTengu for helping me get this tutorial in shape with your many contributions that were drastically needed! -pb
Thanks to everyone from the Reprap community for your support and many contributions!