Nigel Christmas Australian Alps Walking Track Spring 2006 Walhalla to Tharwa

Thursday 28th September

Dad and I left Dubbo at midday and headed to Kiandra via Young and Gundagai. We only made Kiandra around 30 minutes before dark, managed to place the food drop and head back to the car in darkness by torch. Nearly ran out of LPG in the XD; were very happy to find Adaminaby had it (he closed 5 minutes later). Proceeded to Jindabyne and had dinner by ourselves in a Chinese restaurant. The caravan park was closed so we went directly to Dead Horse Gap. Dad had lost the caravan keys at Kiandra so we had to improvise to raise the �pop top�. It hit a low of 2.8C and blew all night. We had one beer and said goodnight.

1 40 days of dehydrated dinners

2 Last minute preparation in Dubbo

�

Friday 29th September

Rose early with muesli for breakfast. Hid the food drop near the bridge and drove on to Khancoban then Corryong. Filled up with LPG at Corryong and went from Tallangatta down Omeo Hwy to near �Sunnyside�. Worst road I have driven on for a long time. Very slow journey back to Wodonga. Left XD at Rohan�s and took his ute as well as parent�s Commodore/van and drove to Jamieson. Set up in the caravan park, had a few drinks and talked to Caroline (who eventually found a mobile with reception). We had dinner at the pub, three massive steaks. I had a veal parmagana which had bolognaise sauce on it (a new experience). Much warmer night.

3 Dead Horse Gap, Geoff is not warm.

4 Omeo Hwy near Mt Wills. Geoff just off track at third food drop point.

Sat 30th September

Left Jamieson and went out Jamieson-Licola road and put the food drop down near Mt Skene (Barkly River Jeep Track junction), kept driving to Licola and then Traralgon. Lunch/shopping before proceeding to Rawson and setting up camp in the caravan park. It is AFL grand final day. An early dinner, too many drinks and bed. Said farewell to Caroline.

Sunday 1st October Day 1

We all got up around 6am, bacon and eggs for breakfast. We all drove into Walhalla and took a few photos then said our farewells. The first 8 kilometres to the old steel bridge crossing the Thomson River were easy. The track degenerated and the following climb up the �Fingerboard Spur� was a lot harder than anything I had found in Dubbo (heart rate 160bpm). Basically descended then to O�Sheas mill site and set up camp. 16km traveled. Very early dinner and off to bed around 6:30pm.

5 Walhalla near the rotunda ready to start the walk.

7 I started at the north gardens This is just above rotunda.

8 Walhalla from the old tramline.

9 Walhalla from the old tramline.

10 Long Tunnel Mine Poppet Head.

11 Walhalla and a sign stating 680km to go.

12 Signage Continued.

13 Signage Continued.

14 Poverty Point Bridge.

15 Poverty Point Bridge.

16 O'Sheas Mill Site.

Monday 2nd October Day 2

Rose 5:30am. Dawdled around and started walking at 7am. It took four hours to go from O�Sheas Mill Site to Mt Erica (around 12km). The Mushroom rocks below Mt Erica were quite a sight; big round rocks propped up there. The top of the Baw Baw Plateau is covered in small snow gums, as a result I have only glimpses of the valley below. Had lunch around Mt Kernot. Set up camp at the coordinates (438949 5811495); 1500m might make for a cold night. Campsite is beautiful with water available nearby. I get the feeling that the ranger I saw this morning on his way to Mushroom rocks car park may be the last person I see for a while. There are plenty of fresh footprints up here but since it is a Monday I think there might not be more until next weekend. I wonder if Caroline is worrying too much? Dinner was nice although I was a little cold preparing it. I left it too around 5:15pm and the whether cooled off very quickly as the sun disappeared. Not sure how cold it will be tonight so I have put on thermal uppers. I am in bed at 6:30pm; it is the warmest place and it will be dark in 20-30min.

17 Mushroom Rocks on the long climb up to the Baw Baw Plateau.

18 At Mushroom Rocks.

19� Mt Erica after the long climb and finally on the Baw Baw Plateau.

20 The old Alpine Walking Track markers, note the tree eating it up.

21 Well defined track on the Baw Baws with new style AAWT marker in blue.

22 Campsite just short of Mt St Gwinear track junction 1500m cold night.

Tuesday 3rd October Day 3

I ended up with thermal lowers and a beanie as well; nice and warm then. I had plenty of clothes to go though. Still morning, birds calling etc. Slept in till 6:30 am; the prolonged climb yesterday has belted me around a bit. There was ice on the tent; I wonder how cold it was last night? I traveled along to Mt St Gwinear junction and left my pack there to climb Mt St Gwinear. It gave reasonable easterly views; I have been here before. Continuing along the main track I took a wrong turn and ended up a few hundred metres off the track. The track is dense vegetation and quite often not visible when you are 5 metres away. Anyway I decided to get the GPS out and then head back to the track; bad move as it took a long time and was extremely hard going. I learnt a lesson to follow your location on the map even though there are no junctions/offshoots. I had lunch at the ruins of Mt Whitelaw hut. The ruins are interesting as they are a concrete slab/chimney; apparently destroyed in the 1939 bushfires. I kept going past Mt Whitelaw and made my way to Stronachs Camp; water very sluggish but ok. The bushwalkers only camp site appeared to be dry and very small. Elevation is 1140m and the Thomson Valley Road is next to me. I am finished with the Baw Baws.

23 On the side trip to Mt St Gwinear, snow hasn�t melted yet.

24 Mt St Gwinear.

25 Mt St Gwinear.

26 Mt St Gwinear.

27 Mt St Phillack.

28 Woopee 45km done with a little way too go.

29 Stronachs Camp Very happy as I had a table this evening.

Wednesday 4th October Day 4

Left Stronachs around 7am. The track that cuts across to the upper Thomson Road had been redirected due to logging. It created a little confusion easily overcome. The advantages of the logging were that it gave a clear view of the Thomson Valley. The descent onto Park Road was very harsh on the body/knees. I then came across the Mt Easton Dam. It is a little dam with a long spillway and an intake for the Melbourne Water scheme. The intake has me confused as it has an island of gravel before it; it seem the intake is more for a surge situation as if the water comes out here it will end up back in the Thomson Dam from where it originated. I was at the designated campsite at 11:30am so I had lunch and pushed on; I wish I hadn�t. The climb to the false summit of Mt Easton and then to Mt Eason was very cruel. Then falling off the hardly traveled �path most traveled� made it worse i.e. logs, trees, scrub etc. Finally got that out of the way and then trudged towards the Jordan River. The final descent was painful, put it this way the road had been graded with a bulldozer. I believe it fell around 200m in 600m horizontal according to the topographic map. It was called Casper Creek track; it should be renamed. Knees are sore now and feet nearly blistered from the final descent. I got to Red Jacket at 4:30pm, in bed at 7pm.

30 Overgrown trail heading to Upper Thomson Road.

31 Clearfelling just above Upper Thomson Rd.

32 Clearfelling just above Upper Thomson Rd.

33 Heading off this way. Valley of Thomson River then Jordan River and finally Black River.

34 Just above Upper Thomson Rd.

35 Looking back at where I came out of forest.

36 On the descent to the Thomson River Looking uphill. Not happy as it is bloody steep.

37 On the descent to the Thomson River Looking downhill.

38 Easton Dam on the Thomson River.

39 Crossing the Thomson River Had my first bath here.

40 On the ascent towards Mt Easton looking back towards where I came from. The clear felling area can be made out in between the trees near the horizon.

41 Finally reached the summit of Mt Easton Probably the hardest climb on the walk.

42� Mt Easton was obviously treeless long ago judging by the survey mark.

43 The descent to the Jordan River 200m descent in 600m horizontal.

44 The descent to the Jordan River looking downhill.

45 Gold diggings on the Jordan River at Blue jacket.

46 Gold diggings on the Jordan River at Blue jacket.

47 Gold diggings on the Jordan River at Blue jacket.

Thursday 5th October Day 5

I got out of bed early and examined feet/evaluated knees and then checked the topographical maps. I basically rise from the Jordan and then descend into the Black River with more steep descents. I decided to call it a rest day as I didn�t want to end up with problems. Slept into 10:30am with a bit of reading in between. I strolled around Red Jacket, found cemetery, old chimneys, riveted water box, numerous gold workings and a diversion channel that was probably used to run a water wheel powered battery as per the information board (see photos). It is an interesting place; a pity the blackberries cover nearly all of it. Black River tomorrow; will see if it lives up to �leech infested hell hole�.

48 Red Jacket Cemetery.

49 Red Jacket Cemetery.

50 Red Jacket Cemetery.

51 Red Jacket Cemetery.

52 Red Jacket Cemetery.

53 Red Jacket Cemetery.

54 Red Jacket signage board.

55 Red Jacket ruins Firepace.

56 Red Jacket ruins Riveted tank.

57 Red Jacket campsite, stayed here for a rest day.

58 My first Tiger snake Very grey compared to the Deniliquin ones.

Friday 6th October Day 6

Rose 5:20am, packed up and got walking by 6:30am. Five minutes later I was already starting to puff and pant as I headed up Victor Spur. I decided not to scramble down to the �Old Harbinger� mine site below the spur, I did however come across two shafts (which were presumably air shafts). It was a pleasure to find the top section of the pathway before it rejoins Victor Spur Track had been recently cleared. I found a very derelict hut on the Walhalla-Woods Point Road and beyond that a tree the original road surveyors had marked in 1926. The tree has since died, been painted to preserve it and even has a roof over it; yet some bastard has hacked half the names off with an axe. It is amazing so many people travel so far to vandalize things e.g. gates/signs/boards etc. The roads kept rising until Mt Singleton and then a few more unnamed ones. I missed the turn for the AAWT which is easy to do with the short post markers, this added another 2km to the day. The descent to the Black River was not as bad as the others but was still long. I took more time and even walked backwards for short stretches to rest. Eventually arrived at Black River and the track disappears, so I changed to my sandals, left pantyhose on and tucked pants into them (leeches). Literally walk down the river which is fine until all of the dead trees. I eventually spot the track on the eastern side of the river and follow it for a short while before going back to wading the 1km stretch. Eventually set up camp at 5pm. Got my first leech shortly after removing sandals (not sure if from river) and tried to brush him off. Didn�t work so I put the lighter on him, he didn�t like it and let go; no blood = no bite, but he was quite excited. Total distance was supposed to be 21.5km but the mistake made it 23.5km. Elevation went from 500m (Jordan River) up to 1343m (Mt Singleton) and finally 600m (Black River), with many ups and downs in between. Tomorrow up to Mt Shillinglaw and my first food drop; I can smell the chocolate.

59 Victor Spur looking south over the Jordan River Valley.

60 Country Roads Board surveyors inscribed this tree in 1926. Vandal with the axe needs to be hung.

61 Champion Spur Track junction just past Mt Singleton.

62� Descending an unnamed fire trail to Black River Very Steep and not happy once again. Had to walk in the Black River itself for 1km downstream just after this photo.

63 Dinner on the Black River I was still throwing out a hand full of rice pasta etc at this stage as I couldn�t eat it all.

64 Black River campsite.

65 Black River campsite, looking downstream.

Saturday 7th October Day 7

Just for a change today I climbed and descended some mountains. Glad to say no more leeches attacked, I would hate to see them in a wet year. The track left Black River just around the corner from the campsite/river crossing. The path was cleared to there. After that to the unnamed peak and through the saddle on the way to Mt Shillinglaw it was not. The overgrown I don�t mind; the masses of dead trees (big ones) across it were the problems. I missed the saddle that crosses from the unnamed peak across to Mt Shillinglaw initially, but soon found it. At the lower parts of Mt Shillinglaw a cleared fire track was picked up (steep) that lead over the summit and onto the Jamieson Licola Road. The Skene lookout was a waste of time on really overgrown fire trails for a non existent view. The snow gums have claimed it. I picked up my first food drop and inscribed the tree for family just in case. I set up camp in a clearing approx 1.5 km past Rumpff Saddle. The chocolate didn�t seem that special as too date I am well overfed and have no cravings. Getting water was a real pain, about 300+ metres down a gully, eventually found it. I was sweating heavily when I reached the top again.

I met my first person since day 2 today. Hunters with the usual white land cruiser tray top with dogs cages right across the back. Warned me to keep the food in the tent as the dogs may come sniffing. Seemed pleasant enough and took my food drop drum for disposal. Is it deer season? Altitude is 1240 m and weather is windy and blowing from north. Temperature is not as cold as I expected, it might cool a lot.

66 Well defined track on the way to Mt Shillinglaw from Black River.

67 Finally hit the Jamieson Licola Rd that I had driven down a few weeks ago.

68 Old truck on the Jamieson Licola Rd.

69 Jamieson Licola and Middle Ridge Rd junction.

70 Jamieson Licola Rd at Barkly River Jeep track junction. My 1st food drop was here.

Sunday 8th October Day 8

Sitting at the camp fire at 6.30 pm and I am about to have hot chocolate and chocolate. There is a male lyrebird not far away going through his repertoire of mimics of forest sounds, and once again I am buggered and ready for bed.

About 3kms from this morning�s camp, I came across the rest of the deer hunters. They were from Leongatha and had four dead deer with them. Husband and wife with son I believe; all farmers.They were pretty daggy but, I ended up speaking to them for 45 minutes or so. Basically they drive along the tracks and look for wallow marks in the puddles. If they are present they let one of the older dogs (beagles, used to use fox hounds but laws have changed) to sniff and see if there is a fresh scent. If there is they let the dog follow it and let out more dogs if the scent is good. They basically follow the sounds of the dogs then and shoot the deer either when it crosses a track or bails up in a creek/river. Apparently the deer try to lose dogs by going into rivers and downstream etc. Pretty smart but, but they forget about the man following with a gun and it is all over.

The track to Mt Sunday was up/down and quite steep. I really suffered since I picked up a food drop yesterday and also have excess food. Also forgot to ask hunters� to make an �I�m alright phone call� when they got home. Ah well (C would have appreciated that).

The old fire trail radiates from the helicopter pad on Mt Sunday. Stuffed if I could find it and as usual the AAWT posts helped none at all. I eventually found the old fire trail by walking around the crown of the hill below the pad. It was as usual overgrown and among many fallen trees. I had camp set up early at 3.00 pm, time to get water. Stag rut mud hole at the marked location and nothing below it. So two hours later, 2.5 kms I had six litres of water. I cannot foresee too many baths between here and Mt Hotham as now I am following ridges and need to descend to find water. At least I can�t smell myself too much (I know I stink though).

71 Looking from Barkly River Jeep Track down to Rumpff Saddle.

72 Near Mt McKinty on fire trail heading towards Mt Sunday.

73� Mt McKinty and few views available.

74 The slighlty overgrown fire trail which descends from Mt Sunday to The Low Saddle.

75 The Low Saddle. Water was an issue at this campsite.

Monday 9th October Day 9

Today has not gone as expected. I was hoping to pull a long 20 kms and make it to Chester�s yards and have a rest day where there is good water. I instead on the long climb to Mt McDonald, which is all on a rocky ridge of The Great Dividing Range pulled or upset my right calf muscle and it started to give me hell the further I went on, I was between a rock and a hard place; no where to set up camp and definitely no hope of any water. So I pushed on slowly and since I could not find any water at The Nobs without descending a long way, I went to a saddle just short of High Cone. Same situation here, a lot of dampness on side of the ridge, but no trace of water. It would require a long descent, but I have decided to let the leg rest. So I have cooked dinner and have 600-700 ml of water left. I will see how leg is tomorrow. I would pay a lot of money for water at the moment and to think I usually shower in it. It is going to be very cold tonight. I have just gone to bed wearing full thermals and beanie. I had nearly everything on outside and was cooling down. Good night.

76 Unnamed peak adjacent to Son of a Bitch Spur. Photo taken from AAWT heading from Low Saddle to Mt McDonald.

77 On climb to Mt McDonald.

78 Looking east on climb to Mt McDonald.

79 On climb to Mt McDonald.

80 On climb to Mt McDonald not far from summit. Mt Buller can be seen in distance.

81 On climb to Mt McDonald Not far from summit. Looking south west.

82 Mt McDonald.

83 Mt McDonald.

84 Mt McDonald Square top and Mt Clear in the distance.

85 Junction where track from Mt McDonald meets fire trail from Barkly River.

86 My first Brown Snake on the way to the Nobs.

87 View from The Nobs.

88 View from The Nobs.

89 View from The Nobs.

Tuesday 10th October Day 10

Well I am finally into the double digit days. It was definitely well below freezing last night. Elevation was approx 1400 metres and I had thermals (top & bottoms), beanie, sleeping bag and liner. Around 3 am I pulled the cord to pull in sleeping bag so only face was exposed. I didn�t overheat. I climbed to High Cone but avoided the summit as the �track� did and it was very feint and I didn�t wish to lose it. After that the track went very close to Square Top, a funny shaped hill that looks like its description. After that it was Mt Clear. I finished the last of the 300 ml of water left after breakfast at it�s base. I inadvertently avoided the summit as the track I was on, chose this. The views from the lower clear heights were still amazing. It has been interesting how over the last two days my location changes in relation to Mt Buller which is clearly visible mainly due to ski runs and infrastructure. The descent of Mt Clear was very steep and I was very dry by this stage. I even considered filtering muddy puddle water (would clog filter straight away).Anyway I went onto find Chester�s Yards. And it�s �reliable water� was there. It is amazing how some of the creeks don�t have much watershed above them, but have a lot of water, others have none at the surface and are useless. Since I was here around 1 pm I made the most of it. I cleaned/dried all clothes and myself and ran around striped off for half an hour soaking up the sun. Lit a fire to dry the remaining socks, finished dinner at the same time I would normally leave work. Anyway, everything is clean. An easy day and leg felt much better. Life is so un-stressful, no keys, no worries and all I can do is ponder about any problems that family or Caroline are in as I can do nothing. Time is 6.40 pm, time to brush teeth and go to bed and study maps for tomorrow.

90 Mt Clear with Mt Buller ski trails in distance.

91 Mt Clear.

92 Mt Clear.

93 Lovely water at Chesters Yards after walking 10 plus km on 300ml water.

94 Campsite at Chesters Yards.

95 Drying the washing at Chesters yards.

96 Happy face as I have had a wash and drank lots of water.

97 The most common view of the AAWT is inside your tent.

Wednesday 11th October Day 11

A long day today but, I am camped near good water and only a short way from Catherine Saddle. I started walking at 6.40 am and stopped at 3.45 pm with 20 minutes for lunch and 5 minutes at Mt Speculation. It is now 6.40 pm and I am in bed and ready to sleep. It is amazing how much sleep you get with no hustle and bustle about. Three peaks about 1700 m and four in the 1600 m+ category. Climbing Mt Magdala provided a clear view of the route that was to be taken to get to the Mt Speculation; across the Cross Cut Saw via Big Hill and Mt Howitt and the Horrible Gap. Mt Magdala also has this large gap in it which has been given the name �Hells Widow�. It is quite stiking to look at. A fair descent before climbing to Mt Howitt across the �Big Hill�. Mt Howitt is covered in grass with no trees. It was so windy, I was being blown off the track and I wondered if going along the edge of the Cross Cut Saw was a good idea.

The Cross Cut Saw was amazing as you are 1600-1700 metres high and can basically see 360 degrees. From Mt Buggery to Mt Speculation was tedious as it was ascent/descent, rocky and even some minor rock climbing. The view from Mt Speculation takes a while to discern: i.e. Mt Hotham, Mt Buffalo etc because you are not used to looking at the mountains from this angle. I will follow the closed off section of Speculation Road to Catherine Saddle from my �Camp Creek� camp tomorrow to avoid an �extremely steep descent�.

My knees are feeling ok so I will leave them that way and do another 1-2 kms extra.

The camp I am at is obviously Geelong or Caulfield Grammar Schools� bases. I found log books here, at Mt Buggery and Mt Howitt today: these kids obviously travel far and wide. I would liked to have had a look at Macalister Springs today; maybe another time.

Tomorrow is �The Razor� and �The Viking� which were both clearly visible today. Not sure if I will camp at �Barry Saddle� or the hill 7km further on. There are water tanks for walkers at both of these. The Barry Mountains are well known as the �Dry Barry�s�, so I hope to get through them quickly with no major water headaches. Looks like it may be on the 14th that I will surface at the Alpine Road and meet Dad. Also navigation is a bit of a pain in this region as it is a Wilderness Area, so they have removed all track markers verbatim. Bed is sloping heavily, ah well.

98 Track junction near King Billies.

99 Around Hells Window looking towards Crosscut Saw.

100 On Big Hill looking Mt Howitt and Cross Cut Saw.

101 On Big Hill looking back from where I came from Mt Clear on left.

102 Mt Howitt Trig Point.

103� On Mt Howitt looking west to Mt Buller.

104 On Mt Howitt looking at popular track to summit from south.

105 On Mt Howitt with Mt Clear visable.

106� On Mt Howitt looking towards the Crosscut Saw.

107 On Mt Howitt Crosscut Saw on left Razor on right.

108 On Mt Howitt Razor on left Viking on right.

109 Just about to start on the Crosscut Saw Viking in the distance.

110 The Crosscut saw.

111 Notification that they have removed all of the signs.

112� Mt Speculation just ahead showing the rock chutes too be navigated.

113 Mt Speculation with Razor and Viking in the distance.

114� On Mt Speculation.

Thursday 12th October Day 12

Long and bad day. Walked from Camp Creek to Barry Saddle. Minor problems around the razor but, that only wasted 15-20 minutes. Getting onto the Viking was difficult and needed some rock climbing, this is hard work with 20 kg on your back. Siseman�s notes on how to get down off the Viking were vague. The Vicmap �Howitt Selwyn 50K� had the track in the wrong position and Brooke�s Bushmap�s �Watershed�s of the Howqua/Jamieson� was vague as well. Eventually found the canyon so I could start the descent and it was rocky with loose dirt on it. I fell over probably six times (yes mum, I can do it too) due to the footings that gave way after you had tested them. I ended up nearly upside down one time (minor laceration to arm and splinters) and twisted my left knee, much more than it was ever intended to.

I ran out of water on top of �The Viking� while I was looking for the descent path. I was very dehydrated when I finally reached the Barry Saddle. This area is very dry, even the water tank (1m x 1.5 m high with 2 x 2 m roof) is only half full, it is a lifesaver.

There is also a covered log book set up by NRE or Parks Vic and it has around 60 pages filled in. It seems that after a lot of complaints the markers have been reinstated and track defined better. I filled it in. It was also good to read all of the names, I recognized from WWW searches. I really didn�t enjoy today and, wouldn�t recommend the climbing of the Razor or The Viking. The same views can be had from Mt Speculation, Cross Cut Saw, Mt Howitt etc. I will see how I pull up tomorrow: lethargic is my guess.

115 Well defined track heading towards The Razor.

116 At the Razor looking towards The Viking.

117 At Viking Saddle looking up at the Viking summit.

118 On Viking looking at the Razor.

119 On Viking looking back at The Crosscut Saw.

120 On Viking looking at Wonnangatta River Valley.

121 Trying to get off The Viking, finally found the route down.

122 Welcome relief of water at Barry Saddle. The post has a log book underneath.

123� The Barry Saddle. Tree has water sign on it indicating the water tank up the track.

Friday 13th October Day 13

Another long day, mainly on fire trails. I went from Barry Saddle to Mount Murray Hut Site Saddle, approximately 27.5 km. Some pretty consistent climbing throughout. Was a very ugly day vision wise as all of the country was burnt out in the 2003 bush fires and the majority of the big trees are dead. Therefore there is only a few of the large trees which have re-sprouted and the rest are only 1-2m high. It made for unpleasant walking as sun was always on you and the day was becoming humid, I suspect rain is on its way. Anyway only around 10km to hit the Alpine Rd and find Mum and Dad tomorrow; it should be 1.5 days rest which I feel I need.

124 On Mt Selwyn looking south at 2003 fire damage.

125 A few km short of Mt Murray at track junction.

126 Heading towards the Twins. Mt Hotham in the distance.

127 On top of the Twins Mt St Bernard and Mt Hotham in the distance.

Saturday 14th October Day 14

Woke up and it was raining lightly. Decided to wait a while and managed to pack everything up in a break from the rain. Glad I didn�t have to go and look for water. There was some reasonable climbing and a large descent before �The Twins�. The climb and descent of these was abrupt. The walk after this to the Mt Hotham Rd was around 3km and this went quickly. I tried to hitch a lift standing in the rain at Mt St Bernard and was lucky with the third vehicle. Dan, a rock layer (summer work in Mt Hotham) from Omeo was heading to a friend�s place in Myrtleford. I ended up using his phone after I explained my parents were either at Harrietville or Porepunkah. He dropped me off at the �Porepunkah Pines�. I was very thankful for this and it also saved a long wait to be picked up after walking to the Mt Hotham village. I was there around 11:30am. Peter and Benita Carter whom I have not seen for many years were there as well (out riding up Mt Buffalo with Mum). It was good to see Dad and Rohan initially and, the others later. First agenda was stripping off and having a shower and putting on clean clothes. The soap and incredibly soft and hot water was bliss. I basically sat around and talked, had a few beers/red wine and roast lamb for dinner (my choice). Spoke to Caroline (missed me greatly as did I). It was interesting with Peter and Benita as they had both walked many sections of the track/areas that I had. I slept very poorly in the bed that night.

Sunday 15th October Day 15

My rest day. I couldn�t help but rise early and went for a walk. The caravan park has changed greatly and the river has been cleared of trees and blackberries. It is looking good. I had breakfast twice, the latter being bacon and eggs (the only meal I cooked) with toast and tomato sauce: one happy Nigel.

Rohan and Geoff went out riding so Mum and I went into Bright to get a few things and something for dinner. Mum bought me a far superior liner for my sleeping bag (thanks Mum). We had a coffee and got a chicken to roast for dinner (my choice again) and a couple of bottles of red.

I resorted the clothes and food from the �food drop� so all was ready to pack for tomorrow. Rohan stayed for dinner and then left and we then checked to see if the bottles of red needed emptying (they did). It was a good night. I wish Caroline had been here.

Monday 16th October Day 16

Rose before 7am and had breakfast and packed everything up (bloody pack has grown again). Dad dropped Mum and I at Mt St Bernard and we started to walk to Hotham Village. Very pleasant weather and easy walking with no pack on my back. Dad met us about half way down and walked up with us. We had a coffee and potato chips (packet ones) at the��� �Big D�: $17.60 (thanks Dad) they didn�t miss us as usual. I left Mum and Dad at the Mt Loch car park and proceeded down the track. I went through to Cope Hut (approximately 27.5 km for the day). It was a very easy day with easy walking for a change. I decided to stay in the hut despite rats due to the lack of flat ground outside, and because there were steel locker to secure my food. This hut has running water to it from a collection well on a spring; very up market.

128 After a rest day Mt Hotham cairn pictured.

129 Mum and Dad on Mt Hotham.

130 Charles Derrick memorial cairn with Mt Feathertop in background.

131 Looking back towards Hotham Heights.

132 Dibbin Hut.

133 Just on the Bogong High Plains looking back at Mt Hotham resort.

134 Just upon the Bogong High Plains.

135� Just upon the Bogong High Plains looking at Mt Bogong.

136� Bogong High Plains.

137 Cope Hut.

138 Cope Hut.

139 Cope Hut.

Tuesday 17th October Day 17

I didn�t hear the rats too much crawling around overnight although I was glad that I had made all my food inaccessible to them. I left Cope Hut at 6.30am. It had been nice having stumps to sit on and not having to set up and collapse the tent. The walking was pretty boring in a lot of ways; it reminded me of the endless plains in the movie �High Plains Drifter�. It was also as windy as buggery across the plains. I also saw �Seldom Seen Inn� or Wallace Hut and the remains of Wilkinson Lodge and Roper Hut (a few of the many claimed by the 2003 bushfires). The descent of the plains to Big River was approximately 700 metres. I have set up camp here on the north bank as I felt pretty buggered today. I slept most of the afternoon.

It was pretty easy to see why the Bogong High Plains were not discovered until 1850-60 after today�s descent; no one would have believed there could have been anything but mountains up there. Traveled 19kms today.

140 Wallace Hut.

141 Wallace Hut information.

142 Rocky Valley Storage.

143 Near Mt Nelse looking back towards Mt Hotham.

144 Mt Bogong with Big River valley descent/ascent in between.

145 Mt Bogong summit on right, cairn is visible.

Wednesday 18th October Day 18

It started to rain lightly about 1am this morning; you seem to notice these things as it is very loud in a tent. I got a little bit of gear wet when packing up and as was expected the tent was saturated. I started the long climb out of the Big River valley up the �T Spur� heading towards Mt Bogong and Cleve Cole Hut. I ended up drenched from all the raindrops that were sitting in the head high gum tree regrowth and was sweating profusely in the wet/sunny and no wind conditions.

I passed my first bushwalker whom I will call �Freak Boy� near the top of the �T Spur� track. Thermals for outers and a weird array of equipment topped off by so much sunscreen it made his skin creamy and oily which it was). Our conversation was �a good morning and, how are you�? I decided to lug the pack to Cleve Cole, to see how I felt and thought I might camp there. I left the pack in the hut and took lunch and the Gortex jacket and went to climb Mt Bogong. Talk about being windy, I was being blown off the track and I had the jacket done up, but at least I was not freezing. The views were as I remember but the day wasn�t clear so they were impeded. I sat in the windbreak of the massive stone cairn and, ate my usual salami, parmesan and vitawheat (a pleasant combination). A bloke from Mt Beauty arrived during my lunch after ascending the Staircase Spur (sweating profusely after the 1300 metre ascent). So after weeks I run into two bushwalkers. I spoke to this one for quite a while. He has a fascination with Mt Bogong and has climbed it 100+ times in the last six years.

Anyway I went back to Cleve Cole Hut and any thoughts of moving on were dismissed, due to the comfort of the hut. It has running water, a shower recess, where you can sponge bath and rinse, gas stove (not working), mirror, thermometer, lounge, table and chairs and a sink area. The fireplace is a big unit and the beds could sleep as many as you need (people just lie closer together on the massively wide bunks with thick mattresses. There is also a separate room which appears to have more bunks for the Mt Bogong Club members. There is a heap of firewood in the entrance way and below the hut (accessible from inside). It also has rules written in Old English on the wall like the Ten Commandments. I started to read The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown (off bookshelf) and had another easy afternoon. I should have gone to visit the nearby Howman�s Falls but, I was lazy and incredibly relaxed.

146 Mt Bogong cairn on a windy and cold day, had lunch here.

147 Kiewa River Valley from Mt Bogong Tawonga Gap and Mt Buffalo in distance.

148 Mt Bogong summit looking back to Mt Feathertop and Hotham.

149 Cleve Cole Hut; could not resist staying here.

Thursday 19th October Day 19

Had a coffee with breakfast and hit the track walking at 7.15am. The walking down The Long Spur was very easy with the track well defined. I was slightly surprised to see the old fence lines on the top of the spur/ridge near where the track went from National to State Parks; the days of the cattle graziers. The track down to the Big River Saddle was good fire trails. The campsite at Big River looked pleasant and water shouldn�t have been to hard to find. I pushed on for Mt Wills where a fire tower/water tank are.The climb was deceiving as I kept thinking I was near the top but, it kept going. The top is covered in scattered boulders that can be climbed to get a near 360� view. You can clearly see Bogongs, Mitta Mitta Valley, Glen Valley and mountains for many kilometres.

Water tank was empty which was hard to believe after the downpour yesterday. Fittings on pipe work below new tank appear to be leaking. I removed the tank top and fished with a billy can the water I required. At present I am 7.5kms from my next food drop. I am cursing leaving so much spare food at the drops as I will have three days provisions tomorrow before I pick up the others. It will be heavier than ever before. I think I will punch the 26kms to the Mitta Mitta crossing out tomorrow and then have a rest day to eat some food. Weather is beautiful as usual and not a cloud in the sky. I am going out to savour the views again. Apparently, gold was discovered in this area in the 1850�s and in

1888 major tin ore reserves. The area I am in now is the �Mt Wills Historic Area� although I have not seen any mining evidence. This is also the nightmare of crap roads �The Omeo Highway� that Dad and I endured to do the food drop. The watch tower that was obviously on the top of a huge rock is gone and it is replaced with an antennae and a solar array. There is a small building below to which the cables run; it appears to be a Parks Vic VHF/UHF repeater to the Omeo office.

The old kitchen plus two room fire tower residence is now the �Mt Wills Hut�. Very modern, with a pot belly stove for heating and cooking. Each room contains two really long and wide bunk beds (no mattresses of course).

150� From near Mt Bogong looking along The Long Spur with Mt Wills in distance.

151 Old fences and gate along The Long Spur.

152� Marker charred from 2003 fires near Big River Saddle.

153 On Mt Wills looking back at Mt Bogong.

154 Looking south of Mt Wills.

155� Mt Wills.

156 Mt Wills Solar panel array for UHF repeater to Omeo.

157 Mt Wills.

158 Looking east of Mt Wills.

159 Mt Wills Hut, obviously former fire ranger accommodation.

Friday 20th October Day 20

I had a lovely sleep last night after my warm water sponge bath in front of the pot belly stove.

I quickly lost the track as it headed from Mt Wills to Wills South but, regained it further along. There were many tracks (old fire tracks) that crossed the correct route down to Omeo Highway but, they were not on the topographic map. Eventually when it popped onto the highway the markers were missing and the intersection angle was different to the maps (glad I was heading south to north).

I recovered my food drop. Dated the fallen log and reclimbed to the road. It was criminal what I had done to myself as now I had eleven days supplies to carry, when I needed 7-8 days supply at most. I stopped the next vehicle and the man was kind enough to dispose of the empty Roundup drums for me. The pack was ridiculously large and both jacket and jumper were tied to the back.

The descent to Gills Creek was good to poorly defined and took some time to navigate. A log at the bottom allowed a dry boot crossing. The ascent up the other side�s range was very hard only due to the pack though. I had lunch where it hit the fire trails as well as the top. The track undulated a lot all of the way down to Four Mile Creek which was generally overgrown and has infestations of English Broom. Eventually I reached the Mitta Mitta at Taylors Crossing and set up camp. The suspension bridge is a grand thing, it replaced in 2000 the old one damaged in 1998 by floods. You quite often see pictures of the old one with one side collapsed. Not sure if I will rest up tomorrow after the 26 km day today, I strongly think I will as the next day will be around 30kms and over the Beloka Range.

160 On Omeo Hwy with Mt Wills visible through trees.

161 Looking towards valley of Mitta Mitta River.

162 Valley of the Mitta Mitta Fraser Tableland is the green pasture.

163 Campsite at Taylors crossing on the Mitta Mitta.

164 Campsite at Taylors crossing on the Mitta Mitta.

Saturday 21st October Day 21

Slept in, still in bed at 11am; writing the diary. Operation �eat up� is in full force: aim is to minimize food weight. Contemplating the bath I must have but doesn�t look exciting as it is cold and windy. Maybe I�ll have it and get back into the sleeping bag. I should also have a look around here.

Oh, bath water was running very well although I couldn�t seem to find the hot tap. I still have thermals and longs on over two hours later; one thing you don�t have to do after a hot shower.

I finished the Da Vinci Code, over rated in my belief, but I do like how it upset the Catholic Church enough to speak out about it. Do I read it again or put it in the fire?

Sunday 22nd October Day 22

�The book went into the fire after I started to read the first paragraph of the first chapter.

Another bloody cold night, no air flow so the condensation builds and everything gets damp including sleeping bag, and then you get cold. The tent was frozen this morning so it got packed away that way or effectively wet. Even my hydration bladder had the water frozen in the tube after it sat outside for around twenty minutes before packing up. It was around an hour before I could get a drink.

It was a very long day, 29kms. I left at 6.10am and stopped at 5.50pm with just under one hour for all breaks. However, I have left the Mitta Mitta, crossed Morass Creek and the Beloka Ranges including Johnies Top and are now set up on the banks of the Buenba Creek. The first section to Morass Creek, across it and up to the fire trails was hard to find and to stay on the track. I basically left it in many stages and followed the contours with compass checks as it seemed to be quicker and easier. The middle section on fire trails was pleasant. I definitely like the fire trails as progress is always forward, you don�t have to pay critical attention to navigate and you can view the scenery much more as you are not as worried about going wrong.

From Johnies Top down to Buenba Creek was not too much fun at all. The bush was fairly light regrowth from the fires with brumby tracks all through it. I basically navigated all of this section with little or no regard for the track or markers. Even when I bumped back onto the track you would lose it again very quickly. I started to use the GPS a bit near the end, purely because of the speed it checked everything by and I was seriously getting worried that I would be setting up in the dark (if I made it down).

The water tank on Johnies Top is also a welcome relief; it allows this long day to be split up as now you could camp up there. There was no where to pitch a tent at Morass Creek which was a blackberry and weed infested hole.

I am writing this at 9.15pm, as I had a one hour kip before dinner. Tonight is going to be bloody cold. The tent was already frozen at 8.30pm so how cold will it be at 4.00am?

I will head over to Mt Murphy tomorrow, if I can move properly. I am past the halfway mark according to John Siseman�s book 346.5 km with 336.5 km to go.

165 Johnies Top Past half way Summit trig point in between two steel posts.

166� Johnies Top water tank and amusing conflicting signs.

Monday 23rd October Day 23

I was woken by a brumby about 1.00am and I decided to get him away from me just in case it went through the tent. A great �buggar off� sent him crashing through the scrub and branches. It was bloody cold last night, everything was frozen and I had breakfast in bed while I let the temperature warm up a bit. I left the camp at 8.30am. The Buenba Valley is just a maze of scrub with brumby tracks and pads everywhere. I just aimed at where I thought the valley closed in upon the river and walked in the general direction. Eventually after passing through the narrow section and over a small rise I entered the large cleared river flats. All that remains of Buenba Hut are the poplar trees and more recent fences. The climb from there to Mt Hope Road was the typical scrub bashing I am now used to, where you spend some time on the track and a lot off it. Parks Victoria have made a very good effort to put up the direction markers at intervals and cut a few logs but, not enough people use the track to keep it looking like a pathway. Anyway I now don�t really hesitate to look for the track, I rather blunder on looking at the topographic map. I then left the Buckwong track (after seeing a log truck) and went to the Mt Murphy mining site. I wish I had kept going for some of the Buckwong creek campsites; bloody ants and flies. It is 5.20pm now at least both of the bastards will go to bed soon and then I will cook dinner. I scared the crap out of a brumby today heading up to the Mt Hope road, in the saddle the next thing I was only twenty metres from him. You should have seen the fear in his eyes and speed he took off; no photo opportunities.

Tomorrow holds much more of track bashing and, should be a slow day with all of the regrowth. I have found a couple of mine shafts, mullock heaps, old crushing plant foundations and other abandoned equipment. The mine used to extract tungsten.

167 Buenba Valley Poplar tree marks the old Buenba Hut Site.

168 Mt Murphy Tungsten mine crushing plant foundations.

169 Mt Murphy Tungsten mine.

170 Mt Murphy Tungsten mine.

171 Mt Murphy Tungsten mine and mullock heaps.

Tuesday 24th October Day 24

It is 9.15pm and something really stinks in this tent and I know what it is; me, mainly my feet. Another long day, left ant nest at 5.50am and arrived at Bulley Creek at 5.05pm with thirty minutes of breaks during the day. Total distance 25.5km and not much of that was on tracks or roads. The body has definitely toughened up to the work load but, you definitely feel it after you stop and cool down or in the morning heading out.

Bloody typical, there were more idealic campsites (grassy, flat and beside water) only forty minutes down hill from the ant nest I stayed at. The first section of the walk today crossed over map corners which meant I was off map for 1 -2 kms. I was pretty careful following Siseman�s remarks and looking for the plaques on the trees. So I had no trouble getting from Buckwong Track to Davies Plain Ridge. From there to Mt Misery Road, I lost it completely only to pop out 150 metres from where I should have. I managed to follow them to the bluff and north towards the ridge and then it was all bashing from there(I think the plaques stopped here anyway). Following Dead Horse Creek was painful as it is in a steep gully so you are always walking lop sided. I cracked 500-1000 metres before the creek that I was after joined Dead Horse Creek and climbed up to the ridge above. Then I descended slightly to meet Limestone Creek Track. Had lunch at the ford; nice camping spot.

Following Stoney Creek down to the old marble quarry was slow going, always changing sides trying to progress along brumby tracks. Marble quarry was basically a couple of holes from what I can gather; nothing exciting. From the quarry to the spur to climb up to Cowombat Track, was bloody painfully slow, creek sides steeper. Very interesting this limestone area, the creek would be there and flowing, fifty metres up and it is gone. Other times the rocks are milky white (no water) or the water is full of slime. Go a little further up again and it reappears. Generally navigation and the track were good today as every report I have read stated it was really bad.

The wildlife today was brumbies, dingo (and another grey dog), rabbits, tiger snake, lyre bird and other miscellaneous birds etc. Dingo was very confused, wandered off and started howling. Bulley Creek is very nice i.e. water, flat and grassy.

I am around 2km into the Cobboras (bloody joke) Wilderness Zone. Once again all of the management tracks etc. are still there, they just take away the signs; pain in the arse. 55km of this crap to go. I am only 10km short of Cowambat Flat which means the Murray River (and its source) NSW, Kosciuszko National Park and the VIC/NSW border cairn. I think I may climb one of the Cobberas in the morning though.

172 Three brumbies on Buckwong Creek Flats.

173 Three brumbies on Buckwong Creek Flats

174 Climbing from Buckwong creek to Misery Trail on Davies Plain Ridge.

175 At Misery Trail on Davies Plain Ridge.

176 Misery Trail on Davies Plain Ridge.

177 Stony Creek and no track to follow Hard walking on sloping ground.

178 Stony Creek in Limestone country totally dry.

179 Stony Creek in Limestone country 100m upstream from last picture.

180 Entrance to the Cobberas Wilderness on Cowombat Flat Track.

181 Sign at entrance to the Cobberas Wilderness on Cowombat Flat Track.

182 Sign at entrance to the Cobberas Wilderness on Cowombat Flat Track.

Wednesday 25th October Day 25

At last I am where I wanted to be for the last three hours; in my sleeping bag still wearing thermals. When I arrived at Cowombat Flat it looked like it was going to bucket down, very black sky rolling in. It just turned into a mist though, slowly passing through. So once everything was set up I had a sponge bath in the mighty Murray River. Well actually I should say beside the river as it is too small to get in. You can stand with a foot on either bank.� After drying off and getting dressed I never warmed up again. The sleeping bag will help for sure.

I explored the remains of the crashed D3. All that remains are three sections widely scattered and hardly recognizable. Tomorrow I will go and find the Forest Hill cairn which is the point the NSW/VIC border goes too. I also want to try and find the source of the Murray; a spring.

This morning I left camp all set up and headed up the Moscow Peak ridge towards the summit before crossing over to the higher ground where Mt Cobberas No 1 is on a saddle. It was a little hard finding the saddle due to lack of vision due to trees. Eventually I climbed out and found my way to Cobberas No1 which is over 1800 metres. On top of a bunch of boulders is a steel cairn that had an aluminum box wired to it with a log book in it. There was no pen though so I couldn�t enter anything. I was on my way to climb Middle Peak and then Cleft Peak but the weather started to close in so I headed down as I only had pants and a short sleeved shirt on.� It started to hail and the rain made the way back to camp painful as all of the fallen trees and sticks became slippery. I was pretty cold when I finally hit camp but, the sun came out soon after my arrival. It had also rained from 3.00am to early morning. I moved off to Cowombat Flat at 1:45pm.

183 Summit of Mt Cobberas Number One in front.

184 From summit of Mt Cobberas Number One The Pilot on right.

185 View from summit of Mt Cobberas Number One.

186 View from summit of Mt Cobberas Number One.

187 Summit cairn of Mt Cobberas Number One.

188 Cowombat Flat NSW of right Vic on left.

Thursday 26th October Day 26

It was pretty cold this morning and I was lying in bed wishing the sun would get up. After another of those luxurious breakfasts in bed I set out to find the Allen/Black cairn that sets the point for the NSW/VIC BORDER ON Forest Hill. I took the GPS with me in case my rough navigational skills were not enough to find it as well as the spring that is defined as the start of the Murray River.

I headed out on the fire trail and then started to bush bash by compass bearing. I found the expected saddle and Forest Hill; so far so good. Except I couldn�t find the cairn. It turned out after I turned on the GPS the hill was long and skinny at the top and I hadn�t actually reached the point. The cairn was a site to behold when I found it. I knew from WWW browsing that it had been rebuilt after a party found the original stone below ground (with centre punch mark). It was around three metres tall and shaped like a pyramid. The edges were approximately 5� logs with a centre post that was all wired together at the top(I have pictures), inside this the area was stacked intricately with stones. The line was also marked in stone i.e. the border line. The cairn was rebuilt as per the original sketches by the surveyors.

I then set out to find the springs of the Murray; totally cheating this time.� The rough GPS coordinates off the topographic map had me within fifteen metres of it. There was a two inch galvanized pipe in it with an aluminum canister upon it with a few visitors� notes. About ten metres down from the start of the springs, it was definitely wet; around 1-2 inches of water in boggy ground. I followed the mighty Murray back to my campsite, crossing the border probably 10+ times.

After packing up I headed to Tin Mines. The AAWT followed the snow gums trail rather than the Cowombat Flat Trail: much more climbing of course. The flies were maddening. When I stopped for lunch 100+ were on my pack. Then I set about lunch and the bloody black ants were after me. I ended up eating lunch in about ten minutes and then moving on, after getting the ants off my pack. When I reached Tin Mines, I went straight into the Woolshed to escape the flies. I slept in here (a very cold night)

189� Forest Hill Cairn.

190� Forest Hill Cairn.

191� Forest Hill Cairn.

192 Self explanatory, at Murray Spring.

193 Murray Spring.

194 Nigel with rigth foot in VIC left foot in NSW at Cowombat Flat.

195 Cowombat Flat standing in VIC looking at NSW.

196 Campsite at Cowombat Flat on VIC side against the mighty Murray River.

197 On Pilot Creek looking at The Pilot.

198 First views of Mt Kosciuszko from Cowombat Ridge.

199 The Pilot from Snow Gum Fire Trail.

200 Carters Hut and Woolshed at Tin Mines.

201 Carters Hut and Woolshed at Tin Mines.

202 Carters Hut at Tin Mines.

Friday 27th October Day 27

Originally planning on setting out for Cascade Hut (approximately 17-18 kms), started walking around 8:30am. I reached Cascade at 11:20 am and since it was an average establishment, I ate a fly free lunch in it and moved on. I reached Dead Horse Gap, retrieved the food drop and kept walking into Thredbo. Native rats had eaten a hole in the garbage bag and, then consumed � of the silicone on one of the drums. Food was all intact though.

After being informed the rate at one of the hotels was $115.00 per night, I went looking for the YHA. A much better proposition, $25 for a double bunk room to myself. One hot shower later, washing and drying the clothes and I was feeling good. I rang Rohan and Caroline to check in.

Dinner at �the pub� was fish and chips as that was all you could get, not my ideal meal, but at least I didn�t cook it. A few beers and glasses of red before returning to the YHA where I am writing now.

Rohan also should now own a house and also should be poor forever. The weather station stated 1.3�c just before 9pm. Unless it is bad weather forecasted, I will head up to Mt Kosciuszko tomorrow. I will have to camp up on the main range at least one night, therefore not going up if crap weather is forecasted.

203 Cascade Trail 2003 fire damage.

204 Cascade hut.

205 Cascade Hut site looking over Cascade Creek.

206 Cascade Creek crossing.

207 Rams Head from Bobs ridge on Cascade Fire Trail.

208 Crackenback or Threadbo River.

209 Dead Horse Gap signage, just picked up food drop.

Saturday 28th October Day 28

Had a glorious sleep, woke a few times as I was too warm though. This was a nice change. When I had a look out the window, I was mildly shocked; it was snowing. I slept in and around 8am got up. A slow breakfast and eventually it looked like it was clearing, so I headed off. It took seventy minutes to walk from the bottom of the ski lift to Crackenback Peak. The lift is $26 return I was told. It was around 600 metres lift by the topographic map. The weather station at Crackenback Peak was� -7.1�c and wind chill factor of -27�c. I wondered if I was stupid. I was quite warm in the gortex jacket on the way up and put more clothes on at Crackenback. It was the first time the jacket had been used in anger.

The walk to Mt Kosciuszko was quite easy from here, only around 200m rise in 6.5 km of metal boardwalks. Very windy on the summit, although I met an idiot wearing shorts up there.

I descended and went out of my way to Seaman�s Hut to have a comfortable, wind free lunch. I then cut back across to the main ridge on an old track. I have set up camp in a saddle just past Mt Twynam, the topographic states elevation pretty well just on 2000 metres. It is so bloody cold, it is ridiculous. It is 8.00pm and dinner is finished and I am in bed with all my clothes on. My writing is funny as hands are cold and pen is writing unnaturally as well. I will at least make Whites River Hut tomorrow if I don�t freeze overnight. I am pretty sure this is going to be a long unpleasant night; wind is starting to pick up now.

210 View from YHA hostel in Threadbo snowing and very cold.

211 View from YHA hostel in Threadbo looking towards Mt Crackenback.

212 Climbing to Mt Crackenback from Threadbo.

213 Mt Crackenback peak and chairlift peak ahead.

214 Looking towards Threadbo from Crackenback Peak.

215 The metal walking track from Mt Crackenback looking towards Mt Kosciuszko.

216 On the metal walking track towards Mt Kosciuszko -7�and -27� wind chill.

217 Cootapatamba lookout.

218 Mt Kosciuszko signage.

219 Mt Kosciuszko cairn having trouble standing due to roaring wind.

220 Looking from Mt Kosciuszko towards Main Range.

221 View from Mt Kosciuszko.

222 Albina Lake.

223 Mt Kosciuszko in distance Albina Lake on right.

224 Club Lake.

225 Club Lake.

226 Near Mt Twynam summit.

227 Mt Twynam summit.

Sunday 29th October Day 29

Well the wind dropped off and the night was still and very cold. It took me a long time before I warmed up in the sleeping bag and then fell asleep. The one toilet break in the middle of the night was not pleasant. I have set up the tent perfectly on the east side of the saddle facing east. I am lying on my bed with the sun streaming in upon me but sheltered from the wind, with a priceless view. I am not going very far today so I am in no hurry. I am also feeling very lethargic after last night; at least there was no more snow. I eventually got going when it had warmed up enough to suit me. The clear sky and the sun was a blessing but, the wind was still freezing cold. I navigated the Main Range along past Mt Anderson, got a little confused around Mann Bluff but, was back on track when I identified Mt Tate, I climbed the latter. It had a trig point in a rock with a steel tripod; dual purpose. Consett Stephen Pass was next, it looks very indiscriminate and is not all that high. If you miss it bush walking it would be no big deal, but would mean another climb/fall. The Rolling Ground was also a bit of a fumble your way through. Every now and then I would find the track in the grass then lose it again. At least this gave me a good indication of location. The CMA (now LPI) map dated back to 1982 and seemed a little indistinct with topographic height lines and the peaks of granite. I eventually found and then checked I was on the right spur leading to Whites River Hut.

I had a look around the hut for a while, filled out the log book and headed for the Schlink Hilton. I decided against going up the Gargarton and the Kerries ridge, because I was over the scenery. The Schlink Hilton was an old Snowy Mountain Hut with bunk beds and mattresses and a combustion wood heater: no running water though. I had a lazy afternoon here and a warm night.

228 Morning of the coldest night on the AAWT, camped at saddle below Mt Anton 2000m elevation.

229 Mt Tate tribrach on summit.

230 Guthega Power Station from Mt Tate summit.

231 Looking south from Mt Tate.

232 View from Mt Tate summit.

233 Whites River Hut; finally off the Rolling Ground.

234 Schlink Pass.

235 Schlink Hilton and a comfortable night on a mattress for a change.

Monday 30th October Day 30

I have too much food and only 80km to the next food drop and about fifteen days before I have to be at work, so I am taking it relaxing and slow. I left late and meandered along to Valentines Hut and read through the log book. I had missed John and Monica Chapman and John Siseman as they had passed there the day before and headed to the Kerries staying at Mawsons Hut that night. That was unfortunate as John Chapman had helped me a lot with his emails that helped to answer any of my questions in a very thorough way. It would have also been interesting to meet his wife and the author of �Australian Alps Walking Track: Walhalla to Camberra�, John Siseman. The official AAWT was down the road whereas John Siseman�s scenic route is the one I didn�t take.

Valentine Hut is beautiful, painted and has a new �whopper� stove installed; would be nice and warm. I left Valentine Hut and followed Valentine Creek downstream to Valentine Falls. I left the pack after crossing the aforementioned creek and had a quick swim and clothes wash and rinse. When I say quick I mean it, very cold indeed and I was out of water in under two minutes. After this I crossed Geehi River and then followed Back Flat Creek basically up to Grey Mare Hut. Nice hut but, has big open chimney that blow flies fly down. They then fly around the hut; distracting but at least they don�t follow or sit on you. I will stay here the night.

The site is in the old gold mining area with many relics around it. The main items are a steam engine and a disassembled crushing plant and foundation. There is a nice stream down the mining valley above the hut as well. It actually exits from the mineshaft tunnel; flooding being the reason the mine closed originally in 1903. Two more attempts in 1934 1949 ensued.

I plan to climb Mt Jagungal tomorrow (2061 metres) and camp somewhere down the road from there; maybe on a river or at Mackey�s Hut.

236 Weather station near start of Valentine Fire Trail.

237 Valentine Hut.

238 Valentine Creek below Valentine Hut.

239 Valentine Creek below Valentine Hut.

240 Beside Valentine falls looking down Valentine Creek and Geehi River junction.

241 Valentine Falls.

242 Valentine Falls I had a wash or dip here very cold indeed.

243 Valentine Falls.

244 Grey Mare Mine; part of stamping battery.

245 Grey Mare Mine; part of stamping battery.

246 Grey Mare Mine; part of stamping battery.

247 Grey Mare Part Machinery and massive flywheel.

248 Grey Mare Dissasembled parts stamping battery.

249 Grey Mare stamping battery foundations.

250 Grey Mare Hut.

251 Grey Mare Old steam engine.

252 View from Grey Mare Hut.

Tuesday 31st October Day 31

I had a pretty average night sleep in Greymare hut as I hadn�t put enough clothes on and didn�t want to get any colder looking for thermals.

I started off with full intentions to climb Mt Jagungal and go on to Mackay�s Hut.� Although the scenery was just so boring, trudging along a freshly graded fire trail undulating up and down with a few creeks to ford, I ended up going further along.

I stopped for lunch at Mackays�s Hut to get away from the 100-150 flies on me and my backpack and then pushed on to Happy�s Hut.� The day was seriously like walking along a gravel road in Dookie with the flies swarming all around and irritating the hell out of you (with a head net on). It has definitely been the most boring walking on the AAWT so far, the next worse was from Barry Saddle to Mt Selwyn where it was burnt out.

It really seems like when the Alpine Walking Track was lengthened from Walhalla to Cowombat Flat so it went all the way to Tharwa and became the AAWT they didn�t put much thought in to it.� It just seems to follow fire trail or road full stop.� It is only John Siseman�s variations that have added interest so far.

Anyway, I have walked 36-37km today and got a lot of boredom out of the way.� It is 19.5km to 4 Mile Hut or 27.5km to Kiandra where the next food drop is.� I am likely to only go to 4 Mile Hut.� I only have 148km to go, it is not far now, and it definitely doesn�t seem far.

It is 7.15pm and I will start dinner shortly and be in bed around dark.

The view from Happy�s Hut veranda is nice once the flies dissipated for the day. There is also a comfortable fold up chair here.

253 Boring country on Grey Mare fire trail.

254 View of Mt Jagungal along Grey Mare fire trail.

255 Grey Mare fire trail at McKechnies Creek crossing.

256 On trail to Happys Hut which is visible in distance.

257 Near Happys Hut looking back towards Happy Jacks Plain and Mt Jagungal.

Wednesday 1st November

Well I had a visitor last night, a Mr Nastius Ratius. Not long after lying down he made his appearance and ran around. He found something and then fell on the floor and started munching away. He was not worried about the light shining around so I had to remedy the situation. Everything was hanging from the ceiling already but for empty plastic packaging and some instant soup foil/paper wrappers; that is what he was eating. So I burnt all this (as I had forgotten to earlier) and went back to bed. Sure enough he re-appeared and finding no more accessible food buggered off for the night. I read in the hut log book one person was kept up half the night with it or another trying to get into his tent.

����������� I ate breakfast and sat on the verandah for as long as the flies were not there. I then packed and left. I cut from Happy�s Hut back to the fire trail and continued along. Interesting points today were Mt Tabletop, 9 Mile diggings, 4 Mile diggings and 4 Mile Hut. At 9 Mile diggings a bloody lot of dirt has been moved in the search for gold, sluicing played a big part in this. At 4 Mile diggings the whole bed of the creek is basically mullock heaps. There are also water races on both sides of the creek.

����������� The hut is quite nice and small; I had lunch there and decided to stay the night as I really didn�t want to walk 40 km today. Tomorrow I will pick up the food drop (pack will be ridiculously big), have a good look around Kiandra and then move on to Witses Hut or maybe the Murrumbidgee River. Looking forward to Blue Waterholes, Coolemon Caves area.

258 Tabletop Mountain.

259 Between Tabletop Mountain and 9 Mile Diggings Mt Jagungal in distance.

260 Between Tabletop Mtn and 9 Mile Diggings Bloody flies necessitate the net.

261 Nine Mile Diggings. The ditch is mined area and missing dirt.

262 Nine Mile Diggings; rape and pillage of the landscape.

263 Inside Four Mile Hut.

264� Looking North along Four Mile Creek at Hut.

265 Looking South along Four Mile Creek at Hut.

266 Four Mile Hut.

�Thursday 2nd November Day 33

Had a nice sleep in the 4 Mile Hut; it was overcast so it was a warm night. The walk into Kiandra was quite pleasant. I had a bit of a look around Pollocks Gully and the information trail that shows various buildings etc. The food drop was intact and naturally uncomfortable to carry. I made my way to the old courthouse before opening it and re-organising the pack.

����������� The damage done by the mines to the landscape is very stark, like at 9 Mile diggings there is a lot of hillside missing.

����������� It started to rain after I left Kiandra but not before I had lunch on top of the Great Dividing Range. It is not very high or dramatic� here unlike down in Victoria.

����������� When I reached Witses Hut there were 12 riders from Reynella (horse trail riding company) there for lunch in the shelter of the hut. I talked with many of them and even enjoyed some fresh pineapple, fruit cake, a chicken sandwich with mayonnaise and a cup of tea. It was a shock to the taste buds. They all left and I kept the fire going and read most of the afternoon. The rain pretty well continued right into the evening. It was good not having to get the tent or the other gear wet.

267 Sliprails or what remains after 2003 fires on Tabletop Mtn Trail where you leave it to head to hut.

268 Signs everywhere for cross country skiers around Mt Selwyn.

269 First glimpse of Kiandra looking down Pollocks Gully.

270 Old farmhouse in Pollocks Gully.

271 Old farmhouse in Pollocks Gully. Funny thing is it is locked though.

272 Pollocks Gully Picked up my final food drop here.

273 Signage about Kiandra.

277 Looking at Kiandra Cabramurra Road straight ahead.

278 At Witses Hut; Reynella Rides group leaving after stopping for lunch. Thanks for chicken sandwich and cake.

279 Witses Hut.

Friday 3rd November Day 34

A bit of a lazy start but at least the rain had stopped. I headed up the track and eventually arrived at the site to cross the Murrumbidgee River. It was rocky base but deep enough to go over the top of the boots and more. I was lucky as I have read of people having it waist deep and fast running. There is no bridge for a long way in either direction.

The track for the first time in NSW ventured off a road/fire trail; it was obviously a big deal as they put a signpost up stating how you should navigate to the next road (it was easy). I had lunch at Millers Hut which was good as the 150+ flies had to wait outside for me. Shortly after leaving it really started to rain and it set in for a few hours. I continued along to Hainsworth Hut and read the log book. I decided to go onto Old Curango Homestead and stay the night there. The homestead is quite interesting mainly due to the walls being covered in 1940-50�s newspaper instead of wallpaper, makes for interesting reading. NPWS/KHA(Kosciuszko Huts Assoc) have fixed the hut up considerably and are placing a Perspex over the walls to prevent further damge/vandalism.

����������� I have set up the food in the kitchen and the tent outside. Tommorow to Blue Waterholes and will most likely have a rest day.

280 Bullocks Hill Fire Trail.

281 First time in NSW track leaves a road or fire trail so they put up a sign. Pretty funny as it would be very hard to get lost here.

282 The mighty Murrumbidgee.

283 The mighty Murrumbidgee Socks got partially wet.

284 Millers Hut.

285 Around Harrys gap between Hainsworth Hut and Old Curango on Mosquito Crk Fire Trail.

286 Old Curango Homestead Newspapers on wall typically 1940s.

287 Old Curango Homestead Newspapers on wall typically 1940s.

288 Old Curango Homestead.

Sunday 4th November Day 35

Lovely warm night in the tent with no rats moving about etc. There was a really thick fog/mist all over the valley this morning after all of the rain yesterday. It cleared quickly once the sun hit it and became warm and humid. The flies were as bad as ever. I try to put them out of my thoughts as otherwise they will manage to drive me crazy.

����������� Shortly after rejoining the Mosquito Creek fire trail a 4wd load of rednecks came flying past, ripping up the track with all of there camping gear in the back canopy section. Weekends and idiots; especially considering it is a closed track. I checked out Bill Jones Hut (well built tin/dirt floor) and continued to Blue Waterholes. The Coolemon Plain before the waterholes are interesting as they have dry watercourses. It is limestone country and the water disappears below.

����������� I am camped on Cave Creek just upstream from Clark Gorge. There are people everywhere here as it is obviously a popular ACT tourist spot. I have checked out the Clark Gorge and gone into a couple of the minor caves a short way only. I also walked up the Blue Waterholes access road and checked out Coolemine Homestead. It looks like a couple of have been half rebuilt after being left derelict for many years. Once again the walls were lined with newspaper, typically around 1939. Amazing articles during the war years and also advertisements. Tommorow I will pack up and then check out upsteam. This is Cooleman and Murray Caves and Nicole Gorge. I will move on then as the flies drive you crazy if you are just sitting around camp; the tent is usually to warm and not enjoyable. The huts are perfect for relaxing with no flies.

289 Bill Jones Hut on the way to Blue Waterholes.

290 Brumbies on Cooleman Plain.

291 Coolamine Homestead.

292 Coolamine Homestead.

293 Coolamine Homestead.

294 Coolamine Homestead.

295 Coolamine Homestead.

296 Gorge on Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes.

297 Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes.

298 Gorge on Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes.

299 Cave Creek at Blue Waterholes as creek appears from dry water bed.

Sunday 5th November Day 36

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I had everything all packed by 8am and then proceeded to the start of the Nicole Gorge. The few morning hours that are fly free are truly bliss. I found and explored Collemon Cave; nothing special. I didn�t feel like getting dirty and going through the interconnecting tunnel to the other part, especially after yesterdays bath/clothes wash.

����������� I then proceeded along the gorge and then went all of the way to the siphon in Murray Cave. NPWS obviously only wants people in these two caves as they are basically long tunnels and very hard to get lost in them. You could even probably bumble your way out in darkness if your torch died. I took a few photos but most of the stalagmites/stalagtites had been removed in the past (broken off). I retraced my steps, picked up the pack and then set off back away from Blue Waterholes and back onto the AAWT. Seventeen Flat is very long and seemed to take forever to get to the end of it. I didn�t make the side trip to Pocket Hut but further along was Oldfield�s Hut. This hut was one of the better ones and was very neat and tidy. I also think it may be the last hut on the AAWT.

����������� The climb up Murray Gap actually had some steepness to itthat I have not seen since climbing out of Threadbo. I left the pack at Murray Gap and procedded to climb ACT�s highest mountain; Bimberi Peak. It took 50 minutes up and 40 minutes down; so easy minus a pack. The view was amazing as there are no other hills/ranges to block it out. I was pretty sure I was looking at Mt Jagungal; but Icouldn�t see the Telecom tower on Black Mountain in Canberra.

����������� I left Murray Gap and climbed down to the Cotter River and have set up camp near the rangers out station �Cotter Hut�. I am not supposed to camp here but I think it is unlikely that I will be caught. By the way I entered ACT at Murray�s Gap. I now have 40km left of the AAWT, I think I will go to the Booroomba Rocks campsite tomorrow and that will leave 13km for the last day. Therefore I should walk out on Tuesday morning, unless I find something interesting to stay at. It will also give me plenty of time to get somewhere to stay in Canberra or get on a bus etc. Today according to the book I walked 29.5km plus around 5km in Nicole Gorge exploration. The body is really used to the exercise now.

300 Cooleman Cave.

301 The siphon at the end of Murray Cave. Would have to have gone diving to get past it this time.

302 Murray Cave entrance.

303 Oldfields Hut with Bimberri Peak above.

304 On Bimberri Peak looking back towards Mt Jagungal.

305 On Bimberri Peak Cotter Dam below.

306� Happy Nigel, 50km to go.

307 Murray Gap and the entrance to ACT.

Monday 6th November Day 37

The bloody kangaroos were so unafraid of humans that they woke me a few times overnight as they kept feeding on the lawn around the tent. Today has been overcast with some light patchy rain which has been pleasant as it is not fly whether. The climb up to Cotter Flat was not represented to well on the topographic map, once again some sections were steep. The track then descended into the Orroral Valley which was full of kangaroos. The remains of an old satellite tracking station were here as well as old homestead buildings futher down.

����������� I was annoyed as I crossed the bridge there was a sign proclaiming no fishing upstream of the bridge to protect the trout brreding ground; they are a bloody introduced pest. The sign was by Namadgi National Park. The climb to the road just short of Tower Rocks was quite a good one, definitely sweating heavily. The road then descends to the Honeysuckle Creek camping ground. This site is the old Honeysuckle Creek tracking station used in the Apollo space missions etc until 1981. There is no buildings remaining, the dish was moved to Tiddinbilla nearby. I carted water here to the camp/picnic ground at the Booroomba Rocks car park, They have altered this area now and there is a no camping sign. This is bad because if I had actually followed the AAWT and not gone into Honeysuckle then there was no where suitable to camp between the Orroral Valley and the Tharwa Visitor Centre. Once again I am hoping I will not be caught. Site is very poor anyway, at least I don�t have to fetch water. It also costs money to stay at Orroral/Honeysuckle; you pay before you camp which is very hard the way I came in.

����������� I climbed Booroomba Rocks this afternoon and finally was awarded a good view of Canberra and suburbs. I finally made out the Telecom Tower on Black Mountain and Mt Ainslie. I could then follow where the majority of Canberra lies.

����������� I could have easily finished today but I didn�t want to be on the outskirts of Canberra at 4pm in the afternoon. I have done around 27km today with a 13km tomorrow.

����������� Only question is now getting to Rohan�s and then where to continue my holiday? Rohan�s, Deniliquin, Geelong? One things is I don�t holiday in Dubbo. Caroline will go spare, but if I return to Dubbo early I will just go back to work and keep the holidays.

����������� One final dinner to go, I will have 5 days of food left over. I am out of muesli bars, fruit bars, hot chocolate etc and really down to breakfast, lunch, dinner, dried fuit and jerky. There are quite a few things I would like, but mostly it is a good counter meal with a beer at a pub; maybe the Kingston Hotel. Not sure what to do tomorrow , think I will ring Dad and make sure they did not change there mind to be in Canberra and then make my way into Canberra and find a YHA or go to the Kingston Hotel (has rooms). Think I will try for a bus to Albury/Wodonga from there. I like the uncertainty.

308 Orroral Valley. Tower Rocks straight ahead.

309 Honeysuckle Creek tracking station The dish was later moved to Tidinbilla.

310 Last night on AAWT on top of Booroomba Rocks, I could see the Black Mountain Telecom Tower.

Tuesday 7th November Day 38

Bloody typical, it started to rain lightly at 3am and continues to daybreak. Once again a wet tent when I didn�t need one! I will have to unpack, dry, repack when I reach Rohan�s new house(debt).

����������� The walk route had been changed a lot from Siseman�s description by �Environment ACT�. The route now goes north along Bushfold Flat and then cuts up to the Mt Tennant fire trail junction with the foot track that descends to the Tharwa visitor centre. The track had also been altered to follow higher ground as it descended to the flats as well. Generally they had made the track less resistant to wear and tear and kept it away from the water. It really was painful as they had put in many switch backs to lessen the grade and also about 1000 steps. The steps upset the knees in no time at all even though the climb/descent was not great in the scheme of what I had done; give me a steep fire trail anytime.

����������� Three hours later I was at the visitors centre. I removed the leggings, took the photo and marveled that it was now finished. I was 32k from Canberra according to the sign and I asked three rangers what was the easiest way to get to Canberra. Apparently there was no bus service at Tharwa and the bridge was closed over the river so I had another 6-8km extra. After talking� to them for a while one of the higher authorities said � I will get Bob to give you a lift� Soon enough Bob turns up and starts driving me to Tuggeranong and when he couldn�t find the bus station and ascertained I was going into Canberra he dropped me off at Woden. I caught a direct service into Canberra, so like an hour later� I was checking into the Canberra City YHA. Bob was very interested in the walk and had had a friend that had done it twice. He also owned a copy of Siseman�s guide book. He was so interested his concentration on the driving was very low indeed. I got a bed in a four share room for $28 and went straight up even though the official check in time was midday.

����������� First up was the shower, I had put all of the stinking laundry on the floor in a pile. As I was heading to the shower another guy was entering my/our room. Very funny as when I came back the window was wide open., it must have really smelt bad. Washing and drying the clothes was next and then I was looking for lunch. I had a scoth fillet at the Moose Bar (ok but needed vegetables) and a couple of beers. This place was so cheap, $3.50 for a pint of Carlton Draught (570ml), so I had another and later in the afternoon two more. I also checked out the museum/gallery, booked the Greyhound Bus ticket to Albury ($52) and got a serve of McDonald chips (only because they were freshly cooked as I went past) I eventually found the supermarket in Canberra Centre, it was called �Superbarn�. I had never seen one of these before and wondered if it is Coles/Myer or Woolworths backed?

����������� I ended up buying a $7 large chicken and a salad tub for dinner. I ran into my Swiss roommate and asked if he would like some chicken. Yes was the answer considering his meal had no meat in it that he was preparing. I then started back to the supermarket for the essential red wine and chocolate. Trying to ring Caroline then was typical, before she wasn�t home and now she was on the phone. Eventually got onto her and she rang back and talked for a couple of hours. It was good to catch up. I went to bed and found the Swede already in bed. I woke briefly around 1am when the other guy finally made it home. I then fully woke up around 2am because he was snoring like crazy. I turned the light on and intended to get him to roll over. Hilariously he was only half on the bed lying down with his legs still on the floor.� I knocked him around a bit but he was comatose on grog and I didn�t even get a response. I picked up his legs and got them onto the bed even though his boots were still on. He stopped snoring then thankfully.

311 On the descent from Mt Tennant towards the Namadgi Vistitors Centre and the end of the AAWT.

312 I have finished the AAWT Standing in front of the Namadgi Visitors Centre with Mt Tennant in the clouds behind.

Wednesday 8th November Day 39

He didn�t even roll or move to 7am. When I finally saw him awake around 9am he was not a well boy. I had ham and cheese croissants for breakfast, packed the backpack and left it at the YHA. I walked over to the War Memorial to see if much had changed (it hadn�t). I returned to the YHA and then loaded up and went to the Jolimont Tourist Centre to catch my bus to Albury. At the moment I am heading to Yass. Mum and Dad were still in Wodonga (but were leaving) and have stuck around and will pick me up from the railway station in Albury. It should be a good night as I have really missed them. Caroline said Rohan has a list of things for me to do at his new abode. I am definitely a convert to the YHA hostels, clean, full coking facilities and around 1/3 � � the price of a dirty hotel/motel.

Maps:

I carried the following only as they were required. Naturally you leave them with the food drops as dictated. You could save some carrying weight by photo reducing the majority of them and re-printing them. I chose not to go with this method and I am glad I didn�t. Many areas you find you are referencing the map for all of the additional information they convey apart from the line the track takes i.e. topographic line, streams, point of interest and eastings and northings, coordinate system (maps are mix of MGA and ISG). I would have had great trouble finding water a few times without the information the maps convey. I find enjoyment looking at maps and each evening before going to sleep I would study over the following days maps.

I carried an old Garmin GPS for reference and I used it a few times for confirmation more than anything. I highly recommend carrying one as it allows you to re-fix your position on the maps in case you have a few stuff ups and become �lost�. It is a lot less stressful when you can just pull it out of the pack and turn it on rather than trying to back track to the last known good point. A lot of the track in Victoria basically has no track so you are also a lot more secure bashing across country especially when the last marker you saw was a long time ago (very common). The other very important aspect is to read up on and understand the new Geocentric Datum of Australia (GDA 1994) coordinate system and the differences between the old ISG system. The map set I carried had a mix of both and the GPS was old and only capable of being set on ISG. The main difference between MGA and ISG datums is around 205m. So if you ignore the datum the GPS could give you a reading that might be 200m out on the map you are looking at and this could create a lot of confusion especially if you are looking at it to figure where you went wrong. Basically the conversion from ISG to MGA shifts 205m NNE; to convert ISG add 113m to the easting and 180m to the northing.

I also spend a lot of time going through the maps and placing a series of dots upon them in red permanent marker to define the tracks path. I also wrote the previous and next map upon them and numbered each map sequentially. In the AAWT guide book I also marked the maps in it to show where the topographic maps associated to it start and finish. This took a long time but was worth the effort and reduces confusion during the walk.

1 Baw Baw National Park 50k, Bush Maps

2 Mt Gregory 25k, VicMap1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

3 Mt Easton 25k, VicMap

4 Connors Plain 25k, VicMap

5 Skene South 25k, VicMap

6 Skene North 25k, VicMap

7 Tamboritha-Moroka 50k, VicMap 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

8 Howitt-Selwyn 50k, VicMap

8a Dargo Plains-Cobungra 50k, VicMap 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

9 Bogong Alpine Area Outdoor Leisure Map 50k, VicMap

10 Benambra-Leinster 50k Vicmap

11 Dart Gibbo 50k, 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

12 Suggan Buggan 50k, Dept of Lands

13 Thredbo 50k, LPI (old 1st edition map)

14 Mount Kosciuszko 50k, LPI (old 1st edition map)

15 Khancoban 50k, LPI (old 1st edition map)

16 Old Adaminaby 25k, LPI

17 Denison 25k, LPI 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

18 Cabramurra 25k, CMA (old 1st edition map)

18a Ravine 25k, LPI 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

19 Tantangara 25k, LPI

20 Rules Point 25k,

20a Pepercorn 25k LPI 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest. Reference for Blue Waterholes area only.

21 Rendezvous Creek 25k, LPI

22 Corin Dam 25k, LPI

23 Williamsdale 25k, LPI 1:1 Colour A3 of section of interest.

Clothes:

Boots: Scarpa Trek Pro. Break these in and wear full time for 1 month before the walk. Have some treatment at Mt Hotham and Thredbo for leather shoes to prevent drying and cracking.

Socks: 3 pairs of walking socks and a pair of explorers for camp only use.

Knee high pantyhose: a few pairs and extra in food drops. These are worn full time under socks and prevent blisters extremely well.

Pants: Zip off long pants lightweight quick drying. One pair only.

Underwear: two pairs Ex-Officio quick dry. These don�t get wet against the skin and stop chaffing.

Shirts: Helly Hanson; one short sleeved and one long sleeved. Probably could have left the long sleeved one at home. You can wash these and put straight back on. No chaffing etc at all from back pack.

Thermals: one long sleeved top and one long legs bottom.

Jumper: One Kathmandu long sleeved zip front.

Waterproof overpants: one set. Probably could have left at home but if had encountered prolonged bad weather may have needed.

Beanie: good quality snow suitable one.

Hat: Columbia.

Gloves

Goretex Jacket: Kathmandu Stormfront V3

Gaiters: Essential as amount of scrub bashing is very high. Pants and legs would be destroyed without them and boots full of foreign objects/dirt. Recommend breathable ones.

Gear:

Backpack: Macpac Torre

Tent: Macpac Minaret 4 season due to warmth and likelihood of snow dumps. I used a plastic footprint under it.

Sleeping bag: at least -5 rated. I would use a better bag if doing it again as it was to marginal i.e sleeping with thermals, beany etc on and jacket over legs is not fun.

Sleeping mat: Full length therma rest 3cm. Don�t skimp and use the short ones as it gets bloody cold at high elevations. Also a therma rest is physically smaller than a solid blue foam matt. Worth the weight for a good sleep.

Camera: IXUS 50 1mb card and a spare battery. Carried this in my pocket the whole way as you are more likely to take photos if you don�t have to put he pack down.

Stove: MSR dragonfly. Ran it on shellite only as no smell to ruin food and far easier to light than kerosene. Simmer function is important.

Saucepans: MSR titanium set.

Knife/fork/spoon.

Sandals: For around camp and water crossings. Make sure they have straps of some sort so they don�t float away downstream.

Small piece plastic: to sit on during lunch etc when everything is wet. Weighs stuff all; keep in side pocket of pack.

Lighters: x2 in small waterproof vitamin caontainer

Matches: backup

Pack liner

Water filter: MSR MiniWorks. Cleanable in field with no tools.

Water bottles: 2 x Nalgene type. Screw top screws directly onto the water filter.

Cutting board: to cut up lunch. Small section of thin type (1mm) available from supermarket.

Toilet paper: Interlaced rectangular flat packet (like in public toilets). One per person per food drop.

Torch: strap on head type. Don�t get the type with battery at rear of head as it is useless in bed.

Compass: I had this on a rope around the neck for quick reference.

Pens/Pencils

Letherman tool. Fix anything

First aid kit. Added more tape, a sheet of Duoderm (burns and blisters), extra snake bandage etc. Better to have to much than to little in this instance.

Soap: Clothes and yourself

Bags: Drawstring to separate food groups. I split mine into breakfasts, lunch/snacks and dinners. Different colours are also a good idea.

Waterproof map cover

2 litre water bladder and bite valve: The $15 cheapie is fine. Just sit on top of the pack under top flap and feed to side strap so you can drink without stopping. Make sure it has an on/off valve at mouthpiece.

5 litre wine cask bladder: carrying camp/dinner water and also gives ability to make a dry camp on ridges it you so desire.

Aeroguard

EPIRB: don�t even think of not having one, cheap life insurance.

Towel: Sea to summit about the size of a film canister yet works well.

Head net: Sea to summit. Weighs stuff all. I would have become demented without it due to flies in sections. The flies didn�t care about repellant at all.

Lip balm

Toothbrush/paste

Cableties: a few for unforeseen repairs.

Length of cord: clothes line, unforeseen repairs

Liquid skin pressure pack: you get a lot of minor cuts scrapes on the walk.

Duct tape: a few meters wrapped around the liquid skin container.

Spare shoelaces

Needle and thread: thick and strong thread. Yes I did use these.

Spare batteries for torch and GPS. Distribute these through food drops.

AAWT book by John Siseman: Don�t leave home without.

Food:

I purchased a dehydrator unit and a vacuum sealer unit and bags specifically for this purpose. You have to eat a lot of food on this trip due to the level of exercise that is required and you also have to be able to stand it. The simple method is to make food you know you like (or can stand) with enough variation to keep the mind happy. If you do it right when you hit Mt Hotham and Thredbo you should not have any massive cravings nor should you be starving. Also get a good set of Salter of equivalent electronic scales that accurately measure to 5gm.

I made up 40 days of food in total which proved to be far more than I required. To do it again I would make 30-35 days of food and then rely on outside food supplies at Mt Hotham and Thredbo. I took 38 days in total but spent a two dinners with family at Porepunkah and one at Thredbo.

Breakfast: 150gm of muesli and 50gm of dried milk powder mixed together and vacuum bagged. This is a lot of muesli but I found after a week I needed that much. Experiment yourself but realise that you eat a lot more than at home watching TV. The only big error I made here was buying from Woolworths some flavour with strawberry in it; after a few of them it repulsed me and I couldn�t stand eating it. I would sort through the mixes avoiding it like the plague until there was no other option. I found the toasted Muesli more palatable.

Lunch: 35gm of salami (40mm diameter approx 40-50mm long) various varieties but make sure they state keep cool on label (not keep refrigerated at or below 4 degrees C). Parmesan cheese in block form from supermarket, approx 40gm chunks. Both the parmesan and salami was cut in chunk form and then vacuum packed in a small vacuum bag. I cut the large vacuum bags into 4 and heat sealed the edges to make smaller bags. The salami and cheese kept well and left overs were fine months after the walk. I also had 11 vita wheat crackers with the salami and cheese each lunch time. The salami, cheese and crackers is hard to beat as it keeps well, is compact, has plenty of flavour and lots of energy (over 2000KJ).

Dinners: For ease I made all of the meals in a similar method with the variety coming from the sauces and the variation between pasta/rice/Deb potato. I found this method extremely palatable and gave plenty of variation for you to pick through.

The base was made from:

����������������������������������� 6kg broccoli = 18 heads weighing 3kg. Blanched and dried. 515gm dried = 15.8gm per meal.

����������������������������������� Capsicums = 38. Blanched and dried. 575gm dried = 14.3gm per meal.

����������������������������������� Carrots = 40 normal size. Blanched and dried. 360dried = 9gm per meal.

����������������������������������� Snow peas = 1 kg Blanched and dried

����������������������������������� Mince 9.09kg of the best fat free stuff. Cooked, drained and dehydrated = 2.08kg, 52.6gm per meal.

This was divided up into multiple containers and each meal then had a variation of sauces ( Kantong sauces and tomato bases etc) that had been dried into a (like fruit wrap on liquid trays in dehydrator). I used typically � a jar to each meal and this was slightly too strong for most of the tomato and Kantong sauces though. Also added was dried mushrooms and fried onion and/or fried garlic where suitable. Each meal then had added either 105gm Deb dried mashed potato, quick cooking 2 minute pasta or cooked and dehydrated rice. Just don�t make the mistake I did and add the pasta to the main mix as it takes less time to cook than the main meal and ends up disgusting ( yes I had to pick out each pasta piece by hand for those meals). Just put the pasta/deb/rice in a small freezer bag and then add it to the mix and vacuum pack the lot together.

When cooking the meals I started with the sauce and boiled the water and then added the main mix and let it simmer adding more water as required. You can then either add pasta/rice to it and serve when ready; or cook them separately to give variation. Just make sure to let the meal stand/simmer long enough so the mix fully re-hydrates otherwise you will be farting a lot.

Snacks etc:

I made a fruit mix that was bagged into daily serves. I dried my own for most of it as commercial contains sulphur dioxide to maintain colour and this makes it go straight through my system. Plus a lot of commercial stuff is sugar laced and disgusting.

10 x 400gm strawberry punnets

29 kiwi fruit (strawberries & Kiwi fruit combined = 785gm dried)

58 apples = 1190gm dried

13 large pineapple = 1290gm dried

1kg dried apricots (sulphur dioxide free)

2kg commercial banana chips (bought these as it was during the $10 per kg hurricane time)

I made a batch of jerky that was vacuum bagged into daily serves. This stuff is great a highlight to each day. It was 4.3kg of fat free quality round steak. Partially freeze it and cut it with the grain around 5mm thick, then cut so strips are around 5cm wide at most. Marinate with a couple of jars of teriyaki marinade and leave in the fridge for a few days. Dehydrate it in the unit. It shrinks a fair bit and when it is half done mix it through another jar of marinade as it adds more flavour. It made 1550gm dried = 40gm per day.

Cup of soup packets. 1 per day

Nescafe hot chocolate sachets 1 to 2 per day

Muesli bars 1 to 2 per day

400gm chocolate block 1 per food drop.

Peanuts, 1 large packet per food drop.

Coffee or tea bags

Chewing gum

Vitamins: I Centrum per day and fish oil. Worth taking to make sure diet is adequate.

Instant custard or dessert, 1 for every second day.

I found I really liked the hot chocolate sachets and hardly touched the tea bags. Generally I was not having a tea with breakfast as I could not be stuffed lighting the stove.

Food drops:

I followed John Chapman�s advice on food drops which are available from his website here. It contains a great deal of information about the walk. John is also very helpful in answering specific questions by email and I have a great deal of respect for him because of this.

Food drop 1: Located near the intersection of Jamieson-Licola Rd and Barkly River Jeep track.

Food drop 2: Left with my Parents. This could be left at or near Mt St Bernard on the Alpine Way or at accommodation at Mt Hotham. The Big D is open every day.

Food drop 3: At track junction near �Sunnyside� on the Omeo Hwy.

Food drop 4: At Dead Horse Gap approx 4km from Thredbo. I would leave this one at the YHA hostel next time and stay there.

Food drop 5: Up Pollocks Gully, Kiandra. There are garbage disposal facilities and a phone near the old public hall.

I used old Round-Up drums that had been rinsed over and over for the containers. I cut a big U shape with an angle grinder on one side of each container and put small drill holes in a few places next to the cuts. The drill holes were so I could lace cable ties through them to close off the flap again once the food was stuffed inside. I placed a garbage bag in the drum and fed all of the food and supplies into the drum before tying off the garbage bag. After lacing the drum shut I put silastic over the opening to prevent smells emanating (keep animals away). The drums were then put in a camouflaging green garbage bag and hidden in the scrub and/or half buried if possible. This worked well though I did have a native rat of some sort eat half of the silastic at the Dead Horse Gap food drop. A ranger I spoke to said it is a common occurrence there. The choice behind the drums was that I didn�t have to buy expensive drums and also I didn�t have to retrieve them unless necessary (most people will stop for you and dispose of the drums if asked). You have to have secure and well hidden food drops as if you loose one the walk is all over for you.

I split the days of food into: 9 days initial, 6 days (first), 5 days (second), 8 days (third), 7 days (fourth) and 5 days (fifth). This was a major error as I found I was carrying after a week or two 3-4 days food to much. I was not game to leave I behind as I didn�t know if it was going to be needed later on in the walk. If I was to do it again I would carry food more like this:� 6 days initial, 5 days (first), 4 days (second), 7 days (third), 6 days (fourth) and 6 days (fifth). You can also catch up on the track if you find yourself low on food due to bad weather etc. It is not to hard to pull a 30-40km day and effectively knock over two days travel in one in quite a few areas.

Reflections etc:

The AAWT was one of the most enjoyable things I have ever done in my life. I am seriously considering going again in the next few years. It was many months of research and preparation that comes together in one long holiday. You could do the walk in a quicker time frame but you must consider how much do you want to rough it and how many enjoyable side trips do you want too miss? The aspect I enjoyed was the knowledge I had time up my sleeve; so when I found something I liked and stopped there.

If at all possible avoid places like Mt Kosciuszko and Blue Waterholes on the weekends as the multitudes of people are hard to handle.

Before heading off make sure you do a lot of steep hills or preferably steps to get the legs accustomed to the load. I would basically do step repeats with a 25kg load up/down the tallest building you can find. The biggest problem is the downhill stretches during the walk and the likelihood of minor injury (requiring time off to heal). Also do not be afraid to have plenty of rests on the way down and take it very easy. Once the knees are sore it takes them a long time to settle down. In contrast going uphill is easy; it only makes you buggered (and sleep well) and doesn�t actually hurt you.

If you have any queries about the walk I can be contacted at ���������� Nigel dot Christmas at Dubbo dot nsw dot gov dot au