This document is all about gear for dirt bikes….
14 March 2019. POC / Web link http://bit.ly/2eIPhf0 / Doc link
See also Tires page
Contents
Boot reinforcement with AquaSeal
Electronics: Carrying a tablet for tracking and mapping
After the Moose: Wolfman fender pack
Saddlebags for carrying extra gas and supplies
Chainsaw chaps: My time has come
Rack 1.0: Front milk crate rack (2016)
Very compact Stihl MS150 TCE strapped to rear of KTM
Rack 2.0: Ikea custom front rack (2017)
Rack 3.0: Ikea with welded steel tubing (2018)
Armor
Here are my main posts on armor:
Leatt 5.5 chest protector http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/leatt-5-5-body-vest-anyone-using-it.1129665/#post-28915372
Football pads are cheap and effective hip protection
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/armored-shorts-advice.1155552/#post-29741264
Joining together the Leatt Neck Brace and the Leatt Body Protector 5.5
Dainese Oak elbow guards
Handroid super gloves
Boot reinforcement with AquaSeal
I ride in a lot of rocks and the sides of my Sidi boots were getting worn and damaged:
The first step was to secure the part where the stitching was damaged. I used a Speedy Stitcher. Working inside the boot was challenging, but this is the only tool that can handle a confined space like this:
Here are the four stitches in place. For the front damage, I just stuck it down with hot glue because sewing was completely impossible in this part of the boot:
AquaSeal (Amazon) is a very tough urethane sealant used on wetsuits and other gear. I have used it for many boot and other repairs. AquaSeal contains Toluene, which is a very nasty chlorinated solvent. It also flows and drips for a long time before drying.
I highly recommend wearing a cartridge respirator, even better a full-face respirator, when working with materials like AquaSeal. Spend some money to protect your health: local store or Amazon. You want OV (organic vapors) cartridges. Disposable gloves and newspaper to catch drips are also essential:
Aluminum tape is great for masking:
You do have to mask everything, because the AquaSeal will run everywhere. Below it has been applied. Notice the newspaper covers everything below the coating area:
After about 2 hrs I removed the masking. You want to find the point where the running and dripping has stopped but the material is not completely cured.
Once the sides had cured, I masked and treated the toe areas as well:
UPDATE: Aquaseal seeps into and bonds completely to leather. Plastic? Not so much. So it is coming off but still providing protection.
Above: JXG on 24 September, 10 December 2017
Survival
In the backpack I carry for both MTB and dirt biking, key items:
- inReach Satcom unit (tested regularly)
- Lithium batteries and pack for above
- Israeli Battle Dressing Amazon
- QuikClot Advanced Clotting Gauze Amazon
- Survival bag
- Water purification tablets (expiration date monitored)
- Fire starting kit
Electronics: Carrying a tablet for tracking and mapping
Small pouch for mountain biking:
Tool kits
Minimalist field service kit
- Tusk 3-Way Mini T-Handle Kit 1/4" RMAM, 7 oz: 6, 8, 10, 12, 13mm sockets and #2 Philips. Works with any 1/4-inch drivers, see photo below.
- Couple of box wrenches
- 5" locking jaw pliers
Below ⬇ 2 lb minimalist kit in a piece of inner tube. Tusk T-handle has been supplemented with bits from another kit. Most are not needed for my bikes but could help others on the trail.
^^^ Note: Inner tube is the only material I have found that will survive rough riding. Tools pound holes in anything else.
In the backpack I carry for both MTB and dirt biking:
- Topeak Mini 9 hex tool,
- Leatherman-type tool,
- Swiss army knife,
- Tekton digital tire gauge,
- Topeak pump,
- Patches and buffer to help other riders with tubes,
- Tubeless tire plug kit,
- Valve core remover,
- Genuine Schrader cores,
- Tire sealant and Stans injector syringe,
- copper wire,
- zip ties,
- CO2
More details on tire and tube repair are here, with pix: http://bit.ly/2RlPh5W
Options:
Allen wrench sets:
- Topeak Mini 9: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8mm allen, T25. 3.2 oz
- Bikemaster Multi-Function Hand Tool: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6mm hex, plus an 8mm hex tip, cross and flat screwdrivers. More torque than the Topeak.
For wheel removal on the trail. May not be needed for Tubliss users:
- No-Mar tool for front axle, somewhat rare, direct from NoMar
- Needs a wrench, so may want to carry a high-quality 6-inch crescent wrench and also use this on the rear axle: about 9 oz.
- Tusk Racer Axle Wrench for large nuts, RMAM, 4.3 oz
What about a plug and wrench and other spare parts? Discussion here.
Above: 14 March 2019 updated by JXG
Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2Fb94xM
Cargo options for dirt bikes
Cargo capacity is relative. Dirt bikes don’t have much. Here is my former KLX250S (which is really a relatively light dual-sport) with a rack (!), a gallon of gas, compression pack with exposure gear, and the Moose fender pack before it disintegrated. Living large!
But not quite a large as the neighbors, who among other items had a dog inside that trailer:
Moose fender pack for tools
I carry my trail tools inside a piece of inner tube.(The tools will pound holes in anything else.) This weighs about 3.5 lbs (1.6 Kg) and I like to get it off my back and into a fender pack.
Moose fender pack: Size: 7.5"L x 2"W x 12"H = roughly 180 cubic inches.
Weight:14 oz
Front fender mount pros and cons:
-- Need to brace or replace front fender if significant weight x trail roughness
+ Holes in fender may not be needed depending on shape of fender
---Puts weight on steering system
--Blocks headlight very significantly if full
Rear fender mount:
+ No bracing or replacing fender needed, at moderate weight at least
- Requires two very small holes to keep pack in place
++ No weight on steering system
+ Does not block headlight
I am getting good results on the rear fender. Two tiny holes and 14 AWG copper wire (wire ties crack over time) and it stays on. Also I reviewed all my tools and reduced the weight:
After the Moose: Wolfman fender pack
The “Moose Racing Dual Sport Fender Pack 2014” is sizable (180 cubic inches), but the pack cloth disintegrated after limited sun exposure and I spent an hour going back over the trail and recovering tools (the inner tube came open of course).
The Wolfman fender bag is much smaller (~80 cubic inches?) but is made of ballistics and should hold up better: http://wolfmanluggage.com/products/enduro-fender-bag
On the Xtrainer, the front straps can thread through the grab handles for solid mounting. As long as the front is well secured, the rear clips work fine:
It could also be mounted on the front fender if you watch the weight. Again, the key is to have one end totally secured so it can’t come loose.
When I have relied on just the clips, I have always ended up going back to find where the pack fell off.
Saddlebags for carrying extra gas and supplies
Longer rides may require extra gas and sometimes exposure gear, etc. Why saddlebags?
- Light dirt bikes may have very limited subframes, so a rack is not an option
- For technical riding especially on singletrack, low center of gravity is critical. Saddlebags hang low.
See also: Saddle horn bags installed by Ramz (eBay)
Wolfman E-10 and D-ring install by JMS
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ajp-cycles.1029612/page-15
Other D-rings, 1-inch https://www.strapworks.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DRC
“I've since tweaked how I mount the Wolfman bags to the bike. I'm still using the Safari Strap d-ring, but rather then mount the bags with the strap over the seat, I've switched to placing the straps under the seat. Because of the short wheelbase, the rider ends up sitting on the front strap which is a bit uncomfortable. Moving the strap under the seat eliminates the issue.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ajp-cycles.1029612/page-16
“Here are a couple pics of the bags as they are mounted now. They are Wolfman E-10 bags, which didn't have the fender clamp system that the E-12 comes with. They actually work well without it, especially with the top straps "locked down" under the seat. The 1" strap over the top of the seat is just a spare strap. The one behind the seat is another spare, but being used as a grab point for lifting the bike (like a Tugger Strap).” http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ajp-cycles.1029612/page-16
Capacity: 18 liters for the pair.
Width: 6.5" Height: 7.5" Length: 13.75"
Wolfman: E-10 no longer available. “The E-12s are a refinement and improvement of our already successful E-10 Saddle Bags. The new E-12s are more versatile and the updated design and construction make for even stronger and more robust bags.
22 Liters / 1342 cu.in. per pair / 38 oz.
Width: 6 5/8" / 17cm, Height: 9 3/4" / 25cm, Length: 14 3/4" / 37cm
http://wolfmanluggage.com/products/e-12-saddle-bags
“Not sure you need this much space? The Day Tripper Saddle Bags are 3 1/2" thinner than the E-12s and are ideal as day-use saddle bags when you want to lighten or eliminate your backpack.
Day Tripper capacity: 12 Liters (732cu.in.) per Pair
Width: 3 1/8" / 8cm, Height: 9 3/4" / 25cm, Length: 14 3/4" / 37cm
http://wolfmanluggage.com/products/enduro-daytripper-saddle-bags
“I picked up the E-10 bags in the FM for less than half the cost of a new set of E-12 bags. I have a set of E-12's that I use on my KTM. They are a little better construction than the old E-10, with the speed attach system on the rear.
Before I picked up the E-10, I was looking at the Nelson Rigg Dual Sport (https://www.nelsonrigg.com/view/pro...roduct_id/861/virtuemart_category_id/122.html). They seem like a low cost option to the Wolfman bags.” Post by JMS.
JXG made an aluminum brace to keep the Wolfman from pushing the plastic side panel against the hot exhaust. Brace is made from a piece of aluminum yardstick bent into a “V” shape and attached to the muffler mounting bolt: |
This photo is looking up from below. The aluminum brace has a piece of heater hose on it as an insulator: |
The saddlebags need to be far back to allow room for boots on pegs, so run the front strap just behind the fuel filler and then reinstall the seat: |
Front straps go through D-rings as designed by JMS. Rear strap goes above tail light for additional stability: (Update: strap below tail light is better.) |
An Arizona Iced Tea 1 gallon jug does fit into a Wolfman E-12 saddlebag, but it sticks WAY out and will crack if you fall on it. (I bought this jug in Silverton CO as an improvised gas carrier.)
I am currently using two Nalgene 2 Qt containers, one in each side. Also a one gallon steel paint thinner can will fit, just barefly.
UPDATE 5/31/16: Several days of rough trail riding showed this system works well. The Wolfman bags and contents were unscathed in a handful of falls on both right and left side. A compression sack with exposure gear was bungied to the top: |
UPDATE: The pipe still burned a hole in the very end of the saddlebag when it was heavily loaded. So I added a piece of automobile heater hose secured with a large hose clamp around the whole pipe. I have these bumpers on the AJP and also my CRF230F. Very effective in keeping the saddlebag pushed away from the pipe.
Link to this section: http://bit.ly/2ISVMbN
Chainsaw chaps: My time has come
No, I did not have a close call. Or, put another way, I have been having close calls with chainsaws since I was a teenager. That’s the nature of power tools. You never know how close you are to the edge of disaster.
This summer I decided it was time to upgrade my protection. I was reading reviews and was struck by the stories people told. Weird stuff happens. Even though I am extremely careful... weird stuff happens.
And in a fraction of a second the saw touches your leg. Impossible. But it just happened.
Since I cut solo in very remote areas, if (when?) this happens then basically I am going to bleed out. Yes I carry an inReach satcom and battlefield dressings.
But even if I got lucky and a special ops helo unit in the region decided to assist with SAR--which they do sometimes--it would be real bad.
It was time to get saw chaps.
So what are saw chaps? Well, it is said that the most impoverished logger living in a shipping container in Oregon does not skimp on their saw chaps.
This amazing video shows why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5VSivQe760
Short story: I bought Stihl ProMark 9-layer chaps. Not the 6-layer. The 9-layer. Link
^^^ Photo courtesy of Stihl
No, they are not cheap: $120. But what does an ER visit cost? What does losing your leg cost? If I can afford a $700 saw, I can afford chaps.
Yes, they are heavy: 3 lbs, 6 oz.
Yes, they are going to be hot when it is 90 degrees. But at 70 degrees wearing them over my Klim Mojave ITB riding pants and full armor... I think they are pretty comfortable.
The Klims are well-vented so they allow air to circulate under the chaps. And of course the rear is completely open which lets in a refreshing breeze.
What about pants? Pants certainly provide more protection. But they are more expensive and greatly reduce ventilation. Pants are generally used in aerial tree work where the climber can fall and twist around, bringing the saw to the back of the leg.
Speaking of wearing, I plan to wear the chaps whenever I have the saw on the bike. This is because the chaps are bulky to strap on the bike and I tend to stop and cut frequently. If it is really hot and I have not cut anything for awhile, I may take them off.
^^^ Strapped on the back... chaps are bulky. These are no Lycra tights for sure.
Chaps mod for riding
On the first ride I fell over and of course burned the fabric on the header pipe. The Avertic fiber was undamaged but obviously protection was needed.
I decided to add a protective pad over this burn area.
^^^ Looking around on Amazon, I found “USA Made Ceramic Fiber Blanket 2600F 8# 1/2"x24"x12" Insulation” Amazon by Rubix Composites.
^^^ For the outer covering, “Real Leather Cow Hides 8.5 x 11 Red” by AHG Amazon.
^^^ I laid out the pad, pinning it in place
^^^ Then I used a Speedy Stitcher to sew down the pad
^^^ Leather or heavy fabrics tend to develop slack as you sew. It helps to pull the leather, using the needle, towards the previous stitches before each new stitch. Or you can make small pleats as I did above. Otherwise you may reach the end of the side and have a bunch of material left over.
I sealed the stitching with Performix Plastiseam link.
^^^ The completed pad
Could this pad reduce the effectiveness of the chaps?
Yes, it could post. Obviously this mod voids the warranty and is not approved by Stihl or Engtex, makers of Avertic.
My bet is that a chain moving at 70 MPH is going to cut through the thread, leather, and ceramic blanket material rather quickly and pull out the Avertic fibers underneath.
It's a tradeoff between protecting the Avertic fibers from getting burned and possibly restricting their mobilization to jam the saw. I look on it as a personal balancing of two risks.
Alternative design. Here is another option to avoid running stitching through the Avertic fiber.
Use SeamGrip to glue Scotch Dual-Lock fastener to the nylon surface of the chaps. This would have to be done very carefully using the contact cement technique and with masking to protect the Dual-Lock.
Then place matching Dual-Lock strips around the leather pad cover. This would also have the advantage that the pad could be removed for washing and to inspect the ceramic blanket.
I’m not sure whether I would use 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB4575 or the thicker 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550.
What about washing? The leather can tolerate some gentle machine washing. The ceramic blanket may also, since it is held in place by the leather. Again, gentle cycle and probably no spin at all. It will probably dry out through the back side of the chaps. I don’t plan to wash the chaps much but will update when I do.
Are these chaps sufficient protection?
Here is the official spec: “All STIHL brand chaps are tested using ASTM (American Society of Testing & Materials) F1414 Test Method and ASTM F1897 performance standard, and exceed the 2,750 FPM ASTM standard.”
This is just 14 meters per second, which is less than even the European Class 0 standard.
The problem is that I have a very fast saw: the MS201TCM. To get 2.4 BHP out of an 8 lb engine, Stihl runs that engine extremely fast. The chain moves at almost 70 MPH or 6,125 FPM. This makes it almost a Class 4 saw.
Unfortunately it does not appear that any chaps can handle Class 4 velocity at this point.
The UK company ArborTec is bringing out Class 3 trousers and chaps at over $400 in late 2018. I could not get a response from them despite several emails.
So for now I am using the 9-layer Stihl chaps. They are certainly better than riding pants which are bare skin to a 70 MPH chain.
First Aid too
I carry EMT Trauma Shears, Ever Ready Battle Dressing, and QuikClot Advanced Clotting Gauze in the pockets of my backpack straps where they can be quickly reached. And of course an inReach satcom, always.
Posts: https://advrider.com/f/threads/chainsaw-chaps-my-time-has-come.1344936/
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1267716-chainsaw-mounts/?do=findComment&comment=14548644
https://www.facebook.com/groups/148225479160753/permalink/276169909699642/
Work incident
https://advrider.com/f/threads/chainsaw-protective-chaps-did-their-job.1447729/
Above: 22 version 2, 13 October 2018 by JXG
Link: http://bit.ly/2OY0QPj
Chainsaw racks
Ramz on why trail clearing is essential in many areas, hand saw options, and a rear mount for chainsaws: page
This video illustrates trail clearing in the high country of Idaho.
Xtrainer FB thread: Large and small saws on front and rear
Tips: “I have logged my hours with a saw on some pretty crazy terrain so I thought I'd share some tips.
- When hauling a larger saw (ms290, etc.) add a few psi to the front tire to stop washouts.
- When adding bar oil don't spill it all over the saw, it will leak down onto your front brake and cause issues.
- Always use the saw scabbard, more so for other riders safety.
- When making your own saw mount, have the saw as close to the bike as possible, the closer it is the less it affects handling.” post
Rack 1.0: Front milk crate rack (2016)
Cheap front mount: Milk crate page
2016 milk crate rig on an AJP PR4: link
Very compact Stihl MS150 TCE strapped to rear of KTM
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/packing-a-chainsaw-on-a-bike-ideas.235023/page-2#post-33275193
Rear Fastway plate on CRF230F
For my CRF230F I decided I wanted to try a rear rack. This would avoid messing around with the headlight area, wiring, etc. But there are problems with rear racks too:
- “Last year I carried it on a rear fender rack, which made for interesting uphill wheelies in certain situations.”
- “When climbing steep gnarly single track with ledges the front is the way to go. JMHO and experience carrying a chainsaw on a bike” post
Installation. Here is the package:
Top view, showing the thick rubber pad and plastic around the bar opening:
Bottom view:
The plate is designed to fit the Fastway racks which are milled from aluminum. Two bars with threaded holes are provided to clamp the plate in place. The M6 x 20 mm flat head screws are not long enough to reach around the thick Nomadic steel tubes.
I turned the plates so they run front-back and secured each with 3 each M6 x 30 mm socket head screws:
These don’t countersink in but the rubber pad is flexible enough to accommodate them.
This works out to be a very solid mount. No instructions are supplied but there is a small tube of thread locker. I took the hint and used this.
Here is my CRF230F rig: Nomadic Rack and Fastway plate = 2.9 and 2.3 lbs, so 5.2 lbs total and $85 + $62 = $147
The Wolfman saddlebags are for carrying extra fuel, tools, and exposure gear. Lots of weight on the rear end. May not work out. We shall see.
Update: For the first trail clearing of the season, I carried the saw in a backpack on a mountain bike. First and last time for that. But it sure got me thinking about low center of gravity and front-rear weight distribution.
Now thinking the rear Fastway rig is going to be too unbalanced for super-steep technical terrain, which is where I usually find trees down. Not willing to loop out to confirm this. Also, getting on the bike in steep terrain is quite difficult with the saw sticking up on the rear. And finally 5 lbs is a lot of weight for not much functionality.
I have to carry extra fuel and supplies, so I'm now thinking 12 lbs front and 12 lbs rear should be the goal. Pulled the rig off and will sell the rack and plate.
See Ikea custom front rack for the alternative I built.
Commercial front racks
Enduro Engineering 2018 looks impressive post. Link.
What about the Trail Tech? The Trail Tech is focused on just two saw models but it can probably be modified for similar saws. It is a very compact and beautiful rig with a premium price.
They often show the chain brake removed, but I’ve been assured this is not necessary. There is no saw that needs a chain brake more than a top-handle arborist saw. These are very dangerous tools.
Also, I run only Stihl “green” safety chain which reduces kickback hazard. This chain is fabulous: it cuts with a shower of huge chips and stays sharp forever. Stihl engineers remarkable products.
What about Midwest? Looks good for full-size, rear handle saw? http://www.midwestme.com/products.html#ChainSaw
- Review: Caution.... Bare-bummed Aussie wearing saw chaps. You have been warned. Clearly these “chaps” resonated with a certain film... say no more! YouTube
What about the VersaRack? http://razorbackoffroad.com/store/p45/Versarack_.html
What about the ForkRack?
What about the Bill Dart rack? YouTube. Looks good but focused on KTMs. Seems like minor mods would adapt it to the Xt but not sure.
New options? Roger Smith: “One of my other hobbies is whitewater rafting and I've got a buddy that owns a business that fabricates aluminum frames and other gear for that sport. He's building the rack for me based on measurements from my Xtrainer with Boano triple clamps. Our objective is to build it in a way that it can be applied generically to other bikes too, but it's still a work in progress. If it works I'll help spread the word around the web to see if others are interested. Chainsaw racks for dirt bikes are obviously a low volume niche market. But when you need one you need it bad!” post http://www.classvgear.com/index.html See photo here
Rack 2.0: Ikea custom front rack (2017)
On the CRF forum this efficient home-built rack was posted. It has a very solid mount to the triple-clamps, but is positioned a bit far forward as a result. I decided to try to build a similar rack, but using aluminum for light weight and hose clamps for the mounting.
Materials
- IKEA LEGITIM 14 1/2" x 9 1/2" Cutting & Chopping Board, $7, Amazon
- Hillman Group 3-ft x 1-in x 1/8-inch Aluminum Solid Angle, $10, Lowes
- Hillman Group 4-ft L x 3/8-in W x 1/2-in H Aluminum Channel, $9, Lowes
- D-Rings, $2, StrapWorks
- CycleGear has a fastener kit that is a bargain on sale. This supplied all the bolts used in the project, particularly the “Button head socket screws.” These are also available from SportBikeBolts.
- Lock nuts were from a Hilitchi kit, Amazon
Tools that helped were a circular saw with composite blade to cut the Ikea board, drill press, SawZall, and rotary tool.
2.4 lbs w/double hose clamps and strap, so it is half the weight of the Fastway rig and 1/5 the cost.
Front side:
Back side is below. Because of a surplus of #24 hose clamps, I used pairs instead of a single longer clamp. A 3/16-inch socket is handy for “speeding” the clamps with an electric drill/driver.
A rotary tool was used to create a slight depression under the aluminum channel for the hose clamps to pass through:
The rig in place. With the saw removed, it slices and dices... perfect for that field-created salad:
I like to use a scabbard secured with a bungie. It only takes a few seconds to put on and seems worth the effort for extra protection:
Many riders use bungies. I prefer a cam strap but will continue to evaluate this. I am running a single long loop with one half going between the chain brake and front handle. The other half goes over the top handle. You can see the cam on the top handle. Notice how the brake line has plenty of space for movement:
For the CRF230F the ignition switch must be removed. I sawed mine off with a rotary tool and hose-clamped it to the handle bar mount:
For my AJP, I typically remove the ignition switch and substitute a heavy-duty DPST switch with a rubber boot.
(Below) Not a show-stopper when you are “packing heat”:
To keep a lower profile I like to cover the saw with a duffel bag when on roads with traffic. For a quick glance from the front as a vehicle is passing, it does obscure the saw a bit:
^^ Above the Wolfman saddlebags allow me to carry extra fuel and tools for the bike and saw. These saddlebags carry the weight very low. See Saddlebags for carrying extra gas and supplies for details.
See Auxiliary riding lights for adding lights.
Further refinements, June 2017
The strapping system has continued to evolve. Here is an experiment that incorporated a spring: a loop of UHD inner tube and a rapid link. It was too springy:
I have now settled on a single ratchet strap. Releasing it takes a few seconds to work the two ratchets, but this is offset by having a single strap and rock-solid mounting:
When I did a CRF150RB fork swap, I made a couple of changes. The ignition switch is now mounted with two hose clamps. One goes around the switch and the other goes around the top triple clamp. It’s protected but accessible:
The photo below shows how I wrap the front wiring inside inner tube rubber so it will fit behind the rack. After the swap, I made an aluminum “hook” that bolts on top of the custom steering stop and helps to keep the wiring bundles from getting crushed in the steering stops. You can see this at the center:
Above: JXG on 5 July 2017. Started 21 March 2017.
Rack 3.0: Ikea with welded steel tubing (2018)
The Ikea 2.0 rack worked well for a year. However, it did not cradle the saw so it required a ratchet strap to bind the saw tightly. And the cutting board frame was not strong enough for the ratchet strap. So the aluminum bent and the Ikea cutting board cracked.
Time spent fiddling with straps adds up in hard terrain, so I went for speed in version 3. I aimed for a significant cradle effect so that I could shove the saw in, flip down the single strap with cam, and tighten the strap - all in just a few seconds.
I designed a new rack using square steel tubing with welds. On top of this is a new Ikea cutting board and padded plates to cradle the saw.
Bike build is here http://bit.ly/2RLvEkW
Rack design
To start I measured the triple clamps and fender, making a drawing with Visio.
From this I designed the steel frame, carefully checking it by holding up the 1/2-inch square tubing to the bike. This helped me to realize that lowering the top bar would provide more room for the cables to move around.
Then I took the tubing and drawing to a welder who did a perfect job for $30.
Once I had the frame and cutting board together, I started playing around with options to form a cradle.
The saw is now cradled on three sides with plates made from an old electronic project box. This aluminum is 1.7 mm or 0.065 inch inch thick (about 1/16-inch), which is the most I can cut with compound-leverage hand shears. This thickness is just flexible enough that the saw wedges in.
^^^ The plates have foam pads. The side foam is from a neoprene keyboard rest, and is in small chunks so it compresses. This is held on with wire ties that run through notches cut in the foam.
The back foam is some adhesive-backed weatherstripping.
^^^ The left side plate is covered with inner tube rubber. This is the last side of the saw pushed into place: it is a snug fit. Then the strap pulls the D-ring (see above) and tightens the plate against the saw.
With the plates and foam, the saw is now tightly secured with just a single strap.
Again I used hose clamps to attach the frame to the forks. Hose clamps are extremely strong and reliable. Most street signs are secured with hose clamps and they get a lot of wind loading.
^^^ To quickly run the clamps during install and uninstall I use a 5/16-inch socket in a cordless drill. With the steel frame the install is now so tight that I only used three hose clamps.
The saw should be as close as possible to the triple clamps. For this rack, the surface the saw sits on is 20 mm or about 3/4-inch from the triple clamps. This is reasonably good. A solid aluminum plate design could be 1/4-inch or less.
Materials
- Hillman Group 3-ft x 1/2-in x 1/2-inch Steel square tubing, $7.50, Lowes
- Welding $30
- IKEA LEGITIM 14 1/2" x 9 1/2" Cutting & Chopping Board, $7, Amazon
- D-Rings, $2, StrapWorks
- Cam strap, $3
- CycleGear fastener kit, lock nuts from a Hilitchi kit, Amazon
- Total about $50
Tools that helped were a circular saw with composite blade to cut the Ikea board, drill press, and rotary tool.
Weight is 3.125 lbs (1.4 kg) with three hose clamps and strap, so it is 0.7 lbs (11 oz) heavier than the 2nd generation. I believe this increase is acceptable given how quickly and reliably the saw can be mounted and dismounted.
Auxiliary riding lights are unchanged.
Threads
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1267716-chainsaw-mounts/?do=findComment&comment=14396716
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1222234-chainsaw-rigs/?tab=comments#comment-13638663
https://www.facebook.com/groups/148225479160753/permalink/276169909699642/
Above: JXG on 22, 14, 13, 11, 5 October; 28 July 2018
Link: http://bit.ly/2yeTjBn
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