Look for Less.rtf

The Look for Less:
Achieving an Authentic Look
Using Simple Tunics

BY
Her Ladyship Rosalie Langmod

(mka: Kali Jackson aRMSTRONG)

        The goal of this class and handout is to give a general overview of how geometric tunics can be used to give an authentic-look for pre-1320s clothing without a lot of fuss. I encourage you to research ways to embellish your garments to make them more specific to the period and culture you wish to emulate, but will refrain, for the sake of timeliness, from going into such detail. (Trust me: I could go on for pages.)

        The tips in this class are specific to geometric tunics and how they can morph from one period/culture to the next and the handout will omit garments that are specific to certain time periods and cultures, such as the peplos/chiton and Hangerrock etc, for the sake of cohesion.

        Before we begin, I should briefly go over what I mean by "geometric tunic." A geometric tunic, in this context, is a tunic patterned using rectangular panels, square gussets, and triangular gores and godets. This pattern differs from the t-tunic in that it is easier to fit and I personally love this method because it makes efficient use of fabric. The only close tailoring you will have to do to achieve an authentic look based on the period images provided is to fit the sleeves along the forearm. Also, I would like to point out that linen and wool tunics in this style can easily be purchased online or from vendors at SCA events.

        Auntie Rosalie's Tips for An Authentic Look:

1.) Don't wear blatantly modern clothes or accessories. No wrist watches, no sneakers, and avoid sunglasses. With the exception of undergarments, avoid wearing modern clothes under your SCA clothes, especially if the modern clothes are visible.

2.) Wear period shoes. They're not as expensive as you think and if you take care of them, they will last for years. (Remember, you’ll only wear them on weekends and at war.). Start with a pair of simple turn shoes, like the Jorvik shoes, which can be paired with a variety of clothing styles.

3.) Layer your clothing. You should have a minimum of two layers of clothing depending on your time period. (In period, one usually wore three layers of clothing, not including mantles and cloaks.) Also, you should have at least one layer with long sleeves. (Bare arms would have been completely scandalous!)

4.) Wear period or period-look fabrics. Leave cotton for lining things you want to be warm and inexpensive, your tunics should be made of linen (or linen-look fabrics) and wool/wool-look fabric.

5.) Accessorize according to the time period of your outfit. Don't dress like a time traveler and mix/match garments and accessories.

6.) Wear appropriate headwear.

7.) Avoid modern hair styles while in garb or cover your hair with appropriate headwear.

I honestly feel it is better to have a few, well made, and authentic looking garments than to have a wardrobe full of inauthentic, unattractive, and cheaply made pieces that draw away from the period aesthetic. After all, why invest energy or money into clothing that doesn't make you feel like you're rocking these Middle Ages when you look in the mirror? So, take the time to really research and invest in or make your clothing well. This doesn't mean you have to hand-sew everything, by any means, just remember the adage, "A stitch at a time saves nine."

In every period between the 11th century and 14th century, one can achieve the core "look" with an inner tunic that has fitted sleeves and an outer tunic with loose sleeves, but in some cases (especially for male garb or later period garments), you will need both garments to have fitted sleeves.

For Masculine ensembles, it’s important to remember that in most cases, trousers and hose were close-fitted to the leg and made from fabrics that hugged the body. The simplest and best way to achieve this look is through heavy leggings or jeggings.

10th-11th Centuries:

Inner tunic with fitted sleeves, full sleeves on the outer tunic. Women and kings should wear floor length inner tunics with calf-length outer tunics. Men, knee length tunics and closer-fitting trousers. (Men are typically depicted wearing leg-wraps in this period.) Tunics are usually depicted with key-hole necklines. These garments can be embellished with tablet woven, embroidered, or fingerloop braided trim. You can also embroider directly onto the garment.

Headwear/Accessories:
Belts: Tablet Woven or leather. (Avoid O-rings please.) Women: rectangle veils that wrap like scarves with a circlet. Men: hoods, circlets, or go without headwear.

12th Century:

Inner tunic with fitted sleeves, full sleeves on the outer tunic. Use wide contrasting facing around the keyhole neckline and at sleeve cuffs. (Brocades or embroidered trim are ideal.) Women's outer gowns can be floor length or calf length. Men's garments can be floor length or knee length.

Headwear/Accessories:

Belts: Tablet-woven or leather (men), or thick fabric belts (women). For women, you can cross-wrap them like you're wearing a bliaut. Women: rectangle veils with barbette and fillet, wimples were made popular in this period by Eleanor of Aquitaine.

(For more information on women's headwear, please refer to my handout on women's headwear.)

13th/Early 14th Century:

Inner tunic should have fitted sleeves. Outer tunic can have either fitted or full sleeves. Outer tunic should be floor length for women, can range from knee-length to ankle-length for men. Embellishments should be more subtle. Necklines appear to be closed. In this period it was popular to blouse the outer tunic slightly over thin belts. In the 14th century, smocked aprons came into vogue.

Headwear/Accessories:

Belts: Tablet-woven or leather. Men: coifs, hoods, and straw hats. Women: rectangle veils with or without wimples. It is also popular to wrap a rectangle veil so that it covers the neck like a wimple. Crespines (hair nets) became popular in the late 13th century and remained popular throughout the 14th century. Fillets, plain and goffered, were popular during the 13th century and early 14th century. In the 13th century, they're worn with coifs in addition to veils and fillets. The Birgitta Huva became popular as a workday garment and continued to be worn into the 15th century.

I hope these examples have shown you that medieval garments don't have to be closely fitted or elaborately patterned in order to look authentic. The easiest way to look like you walked out of a manuscript is simply to wear a tunic and accessorize it according to the period you're looking to emulate, and you can do this using purchased tunics, hoods, and veils, you just have to utilize a keen eye in selecting your pieces. I hope this handout has helped with that.

10th Century Anglo Saxon

11th Century Anglo Saxon

12th Century

12th Century, Switzerland

13th Century, France

14TH Century Funerary Brass

14th Century Funerary Brass