Top Ear Testing Tips.docx

29 + Cat Ear Blood Testing Tips

Are you having problems getting any or enough blood from your cats ears? You are not alone (see comments way below). But don’t give up!! Persevere, use the tips below and after a couple of weeks the ear will “learn” to bleed and it will be much easier! Patience is key.

TIPS

Watch these videos and instructions

Choose a consistent place and position to test.

Furry ears? You might want to shave them first to thin the fur out with a safety razor.

Set up all your supplies in advance – including the treats! Keep the treats with the testing kit so even the nasty lancets smell good.

Get your cat into position, for example

Sitting on your knee
Wedged between your legs
Held under your arm, with your elbow - like a set of bagpipes! This means you have both hands free, but your kitty is being cuddled at the same time.

Stay calm, breathe slowly and normally – your kitty can pick up on it if you are stressed.

Some people like to narrate or sing the process to their cat while testing to reduce their stress and soothe the cat with their voice.

Give your kitty a cuddle or scritch and treat– get them used to having their ears touched.

Ensure the ear is really warm– this is key! Methods include

Massage
Heat the below until warm and apply to the ear for 15 seconds or until warm (Test beforehand on the back of your hand to make sure its not too hot!)

Microwave 2 tablespoons of uncooked rice in a sock 15-20 seconds as (you can even add catnip)
Warm a damp washcloth in a plastic ziplock bag
Fill a pill bottle full of warm /hand hot water

Load the strip after you have warmed the ear so the meter doesn’t time out

Apply a small dab of Neosporin w/ pain or Vetericyn ointment to the ear and wipe off after a few minutes. It helps any blood bead up and reduces the annoyance of testing. You could also use Vaseline.

Hold the ear firmly– many cats shake their heads after the prick and you lose the precious drop. Hold the ear just under the spot where you will prick as it helps to “dam” the blood ( see tip 21).

Choose your poking device.

A lot of people prefer to freehand the lancet as it gives more control and you can see what you are doing OR
Use a lancing device– start with the shallowest depth and adjust till you find a depth that will give you blood.Test on your finger if unsure. If using a lancet pen, click it several times close to the ear to get them used to the sound.

If you are piercing the ear, you are doing it too hard or have the device set too high.

Use bigger lancets - 28g or 29g are better to start off with

Have something behind the ear to press against. Such as

a folded Kleenex
gauze strip or towel around your finger
a small flashlight (bonus as it helps to see the veins)
plastic pill bottle lid

The lancet has one side that is bevelled so the sharpest part goes in first – orient so the longest side of it is on the bottom.

Prick at the correct angle. When using a lancet pen, it needs to be flat on the surface of the cat's ear. But if using the lancet on its own, prick at a 45 degree angle - see picture below

Try making 2 small pokes very close together.

Try different spots, a different ear, or the inside of the ear. You may be lucky outside of the sweet spot and some cats have one ear that bleeds better than the other.

If you are having difficulties seeing what you are doing or getting blood from the top surface, try the inside underneath surface. Especially cats with furry ears.

Aim for the marginal vein - it can get a lot of blood so be ready to stem it with your cotton ball and fingers for a good 15 seconds. You don’t want to do this long term though as it can hurt. You will eventually be aiming for above the Marginal Ear Vein as your cat's ears learn to bleed better and as you get better at testing.

The blood flow in the ear runs from tip to body, so you can "dam" the blood by holding the ear firmly underneath the place you poked and the blood wells up.
If the drop is not forming properly, gently "milk" the ear on either side of the prick by stroking towards the prick, bringing the blood to that area

Impatient squirmy cat? Put the droplet on your clean fingernail to test it, otherwise put the strip right on the ear.

Choose your glucometer. Most people on FDMB use human glucometers since they work just as well as the cat ones (like AlphaTrak) and are cheaper - for instance the Walmart ReliOn or Arkray brands. ReliOn Prime is the cheapest. But for beginners or cats that dont bleed much, the ReliOn Confirm or Micro may be better as it doesnt require as much blood.

Seal the wound afterward and prevent bruising by applying pressure, using a cotton ball for a good 15-20 seconds

Always finish with low carb treats and a cuddle/scritch. Some people only give treats, or use a special treat only for this purpose.

Don’t give up!

It will get easier.
Use the three strike rule - if you dont get blood in three tries, give a treat and wait an hour or two and try again. Allows both of you to calm down.
Your cat will not hate you. Its more inconvenient to them than anything.
Any bruising or blotching will go away and clear up as you get more skillful.
It doesn’t hurt as they have few nerve endings on their ears. (avoid the vein)
It wont scar or damage their ears permanently
the ears “learn to bleed”

Track your readings - Use this template

DIFFICULT CATS (this is not common)

Try paw pad testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdUqsCUAyKU
Use a cat burrito (wrapped in a towel)
Wear gloves
Put Feliway comfort zone in the testing area
Home testing difficult cats – video
The clothes peg trick to subdue a cat

You arent alone.. many newbies have problems...

My cat wasn't a wild cat but did hate it at first - hid under the bed, I had to pull her out, she hissed/spat etc. It took me about 2 weeks to be really comfortable - first few days were pretty awful but you just have to keep trying. Everyone thinks they can't test their cat. But she's got used to the testing (and so have I) and now jumps up ready for her treat that goes with the test. Denise & Honey

Lucian is much more cooperative than he used to be, but there is no way he will let me do it while he's asleep. I do still 'burrito' him. Just now, I was able to use a hand towel rather than a bath towel and he was fine with it. Smaller burrito. I haven't gotten the nerve to try it without a towel yet, but with the smaller towel, we're getting there. NCKitties3

I was so scared at first my hands were shaking but I was lucky because Tiggy is a bleeder. However Bailey is difficult and I have to use a few of the above tips just to get enough blood. Sometimes I still get bruising even after a year, but I know testing is what keeps him safe. Wendy & Tiggy

I thought Bertie would be an impossible cat to test because he doesn’t like to be held or restrained in any way. But I found that if I crumbled a few treats for him to munch on I could test him quickly while he was eating those. He soon learned to associate tests with treats, and now comes running when I rattle the test strip container or click the lancing device! Very few people get a successful test the first time they try. But you will learn more with every test you attempt, and you will suddenly just 'get the knack' of how to do it. Elizabeth and Bertie

I was petrified about giving blood tests, but I can now do one in a few seconds, when half asleep & half dressed. Dr. Schrodinger

The hardest for me was the first time mostly because I psyched myself up for it too much and it was way easier than I was expecting. I would maybe suggest the first time you test, have someone else hold the cat so you don't have to do anything but concentrate on the actual ear-piercing/poking. This helps alleviate your stress and once you get your first poke in and see how easily it is done, it will help you feel more confident in doing it on your own the next time, especially since now you know how. Kpassa