T3P3 Kossel Mini Kit

Assembly Instructions

Chapter 1 - Printed Parts Preparation

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Think3DPrint3D Ltd

http://www.think3dprint3d.com/

101 Motor Brackets x 3

Note on bracket versions

We modified the bracket design in mid-November 2014 to make it easier to assemble the frame. The original version has inward projections which prevent nuts being inserted into the nut channels of the tower extrusions after they have been fitted to the motor brackets.

We removed these in the revised version.

PP01B.jpg

Original                              Revised

If you still have the original version then we recommend that you remove the 2 small inward projections on the curved side of the bracket, above and below the 2 bolt-holes, to make assembly easier.

The pictures that follow may show either the old or the new bracket version. There  is no difference in the preparation of the two versions, except as described above.

PP01C.jpg

Trim off the anti-warping discs and any other flash (excess plastic: the shiny side may have a thin layer of “overhang” plastic) on the underside of the bracket.

Ream all bolt holes with the 3mm drill-bit supplied - push it through and pull out. Hand-reaming is shown but you can do this carefully with a power drill on slow speed instead.  This applies to all bolt holes  in all parts unless otherwise stated in these instructions.

PP03.jpg

Note on motor bracket warping

These motor brackets have a tendency to warp when printed in ABS, despite the anti-warping discs just removed. The top picture shows a severely warped bracket which we would not send out. Note how the bottom right hole has moved up off the horizontal line representing the centre-line of the aluminium extrusion to be fitted to it

Even so, it is usable if the hole misplaced by warping is slotted as shown in the lower picture.

This illustrates in an exaggerated way that you may have to slot this hole slightly if your parts show some warping.

PP03B-warp2.jpg

Chamfer the sharp corners of the nut-fitting openings, top and bottom, to make it easier to drop nuts in after assembly (take about ½ mm off).

Chamfer the sharp corners of the frame-extrusion holes, both top and bottom.

You are now going to hammer one of the short frame-extrusions into the bracket to prepare the holes.

You will need a hammer that will not damage the aluminium extrusion.  The 50-year-old wooden mallet shown is ideal but a modern equivalent or an ordinary hammer and a protective piece of wood  will do.

It is very important to support the motor bracket on a solid flat surface like a block of wood on a workbench. If it is not well-supported the plastic may split. You also need to ensure that the extrusion goes in straight.

When the extrusion is hammered though it will clear out any excess plastic - remove this.

Support the printed part firmly on the edge of a worktop with the extrusion hanging down over the edge. Carefully tap the extrusion out using a blunt-ended metal rod with some padding, while holding the bracket firmly onto its support. The picture shows a 6mm rod with the end wrapped in masking tape.

Repeat for the other 2 brackets.

102 Top Brackets x 3

Like the motor brackets, these also come in 2 versions, with and without inward projections, and the same comments apply.

Prepare generally as for motor brackets by chamfering all nut holes including the one in the centre with the angled hole. Don’t forget to chamfer the extrusion hole and hammer a extrusion through the extrusion holes to clean them out.

In addition, remove the two small triangles of printed support material from both of the conical idler mounts as shown. (Note: some colours may not have these)

Before support material removal, left, and after, right.

Ream out the idler bearing axle bolt holes, and all other bolt holes.

Chamfer the sharp corners of the belt tensioner nut trap.

Repeat for the other 2 top brackets.

103  V-roller adapters x 3

Remove printing flash from the bottom (shiny side), ream bolt holes, chamfer sharp corners of captive nut traps.

Note: This picture may show a slightly different part to the ones you have, but the procedure is exactly the same.

104  Carriages x 3

Ream bolt holes as for V-roller adaptors. Also cut off triangular printed support material from conical delta arm attachment points - picture shows before and after .

105  End effector plate

Ream 3mm bolt holes. Do NOT ream the central hole - the central hole has already been pre-tapped with M5 thread.

Check that the top of the hot-end fits in the 16mm recess on the bottom of the effector (the top is shown in the picture). If it is too tight a fit then carefully remove a small amount of plastic by scraping round the side to make it fit.

106 Hot-end fan bracket

 

DO NOT REAM! - no preparation required on this part

Do not ream any of the holes in this part - they are all pre-tapped M3 for mounting bolts.

107 Mini Extruder Big gear

The hexagonal hole needs to be carefully prepared for the head of the M3 hex drive bolt, by chamfering the edges and removing any loose strands of filament from the bridging layer. Carefully ream the hole.

Prepared hole with bolt fitted.  Be careful not to remove too much plastic. The full torque of the highly geared extruder motor is transferred to the M3 hex drive bolt by contact with the hex hole in the gear, so it is really important that this fits well.

108 Mini Extruder block and mounting bracket

This picture shows the new extruder mounting bracket supplied from late October 2014. The bolt-holes should be reamed out for M3 capscrews, and the recesses for the bolt-heads may also need to be opened up.

DO NOT REAM OUT THE FILAMENT PATH or the IDLER SCREW HOLE

The filament hole has already been reamed to 2mm, and the idler bolt needs to cut its own thread

PR22-Extruder-do_not_ream.jpg

If you have the new mounting bracket as above, then you will need to open up the rectangular hole in the extruder block for the captive nut used when mounting the extruder to the bracket.

On the extruder block, clean up the slot between the drive side and idler side - both the top ……

and the side. There should be a visible gap all the way through. You can use a hacksaw blade for this if you have one.

Chamfer the sharp edges of the bearing holes, both sides.

109 Extruder motor spacers

Check if they will fit over the boss on the mounting face of the motor. If not, then remove flash so they fit, and ream 3mm bolt holes as usual

110 Endstop Mounts

DO NOT REAM THE TWO SMALLER HOLES IN THE ENDSTOP MOUNTS

The picture shows the flash on the first print layer and oversizing of the 3 or 4 layers due to shrinkage during printing. This needs to be removed so the sides are parallel , so the endstop mounts are flat on the bracket and the bracket flat on the aluminium extrusion.

Excess plastic removed.

111 Filament Reel holder

This is printed with support material which needs to be removed. There may also be some sagging of the supported layers to clear so that the holder fits on the aluminium extrusion without being forced on, which may make it split.

112 Z Probe Holder

DO NOT REAM the holes in the side of Printed Z-probe holder

PP11-probe-mount-front_do_not_ream.jpg

DO clear out the groove in which the brass Z-probe slides, ….

…… so that it will move freely up and down when fitted.

113 Electronics bracket

DO NOT REAM THE FOUR HOLES

PP20-electronics-mount_do_not_ream.jpg

114 Other parts

Should not need further work but be prepared to ream 3mm bolt holes and remove excess flash from a few other places during the assembly.