Product
Reviewed: Gene Cafe Coffee Bean Roaster
Model: CBR-101
(Analog)
Manufacturer: Genesis, Co., Ltd. (
http://www.genecafe.com )
Average Price: $495.00
Price
Paid: $495.00 (included 8 pounds of green coffee beans)
Where
Bought: Sweet Maria's (http://www.sweetmarias.com)
Owned
for: 7 months
Bottom Line:
Using this appliance
can be delightfully simple; in about thirty minutes, and without
extra paraphernalia, a novice can produce about a half pound of the
best coffee they have ever had. The veteran roaster can tweak the
profile to his or her delight and produce about a half pound of
coffee to enjoy, critique and muse the profile modifications for the
next roasting session.
Positive Product Points
A
coffee roaster for anyone that does 1/2 pound batches and slightly
larger
Ability to profile the roast
Continuous roasting
option
Options with cooling
Negative Product
Points
Some parts are fragile
Like anything else, could
use more power for both heating and cooling
Rubber bumper on chaff
wipe
Detailed Commentary
Specifications:
Company:
Genesis Co., LTD. ( http://www.genecafe.com
)
Dimensions:
Height = 9 1/4 inches
Width = 10 inches
Length
= 19 1/4 inches with chaff collector attached, 15 1/4 inches without
the chaff collector
Weight = ~12 lbs
Capacity = 300grams, 10.5
ounces
Electrical = A/C 120 volts, 60Hz, 1.3KW
Cord = two prong
polarized, 48” long, 16 AWG/2
Power consumption = 1,200 –
1,400 watts
Fuse = 15A / 125V
Temperature Control =
electrostatic thermostat
Noise rating = 65dB
Items included =
drum stand and a 100g / 3.5 oz measuring scoop
Date of Manufacture
= May 24, 2006
Voltage where used = 122.2 volts
Warranty = 1
year U.S.
Made in the Republic of Korea
Location of
Fuse
Arrival,
Setup & First Impression:
The roaster arrived safe and
sound, double boxed and accompanied by 8 pounds of green coffee beans
(one pound bags of eight different coffees). The roaster was
ensconced in a plastic bag (including a silica-gel desiccant packet),
was suspended by the ends with molded Styrofoam and there were
Styrofoam shims placed in various locations. Packaging graphics on
the plain, brown box are nice, but modest; no “marketing
slicks” on the exterior.
The instructions are contained
within a 20-page owner's manual. The illustrations are great; the
instructions, which have been translated from Korean into English,
are abysmal, but humorous to read. For example, according to the
owner's manual, the “Features” of a “Medium Roast
Level” are “Acid and sweat flavors [...]”. Reading
the manual is beneficial and encouraged.
It takes only a
minute to set it up; insert chaff collector, insert roasting chamber
and your are done. It gives good OOBE!
Although most of the
roaster is made of plastics, it is aesthetically pleasing;
predominately black, clear cover / lid and a bit of chrome. Fit and
finish is quite good. There are some warning labels affixed to the
exterior and they are also somewhat humorous to read, but do pay
attention to the intent.
Type of Roaster:
This
roaster is a hybrid incorporating the features of two roasting
methodologies. It uses forced hot air for heat, but not for bean
agitation; therefore, it does not qualify as a fluid-bed roaster. The
glass (Pyrex) and metal parts of the drum also heat the beans via
contact with hot surfaces, similar in nature to a drum roaster.
Operator Inputs and Outputs:
Operator control of
the appliance is achieved by two multifunction dials (red & blue)
on the front of the roaster and the operator receives feedback via
the LED display in the form of temperature (red) and time
(green).
Red
Dial Functions:
Clockwise rotation = increase temperature up
to 482º F anytime before or during the roast
Counterclockwise
rotation = decrease temperature anytime before or during the
roast
Press and release:
1.start roasting
2.stop roasting
and start cooling cycle to 140º F regardless of time
remaining
3.if pressed and released during the cooling cycle, it
will halt the cooling cycle at 212º F. The temperature will
continue to be displayed and “StP” (StP = Stop) will be
displayed in the time area.
Press and hold for at least two
(2) seconds = the immediate stop mode will be initiated resulting in
an “E” being displayed in the temperature area and “StP”
being displayed in the time area. The drum will finish the revolution
(or perhaps one more) and stop in position for removal from the
appliance.
Blue Dial Functions:
Clockwise rotation =
increase time in six (6) second increments anytime before or during
the roast up to 30 minutes (display will jump from “0” to
“15” for your convenience).
Counterclockwise rotation
= decrease of time in six (6) second decrements anytime before or
during the roast
Press and release = turns the roaster on or off.
When turned on, the roaster will generally execute one (1) revolution
(presumably to check function) and the previous session's roast
parameters will return to the display if the unit has not been
unplugged. Do try to avoid pressing this button during the roast.
Having done so on several occasions, I have found the best solution
to restarting the roast quickly to be:
1.unplug the roaster for a
couple seconds
2.plug it back in
3.set the temperature
4.rotate
time dial clockwise
5.press the start button
The LED
Display:
Various forms of information are displayed with the
LEDs: time, temperature, information and errors.
Once roasting
has begun, the red LED display alternates between the current
temperature setting and the current internal temperature reading. The
temperature setting displays as a normal number “482” and
the current internal temperature reading is displayed with “dots”
for differentiation, “4.8.2.”
There are two
temperature sensors in the Gene Cafe; one sensor is located on the
right side (before the air enters the drum) and the other is located
on the left side where the air exits the drum and heads down to the
chaff collector. The LED displays the temperature reading from the
sensor on the right; the air going into the drum. The sensor on the
left side is a safety sensor; if it gets too hot on the exhaust side
(chaff fire, etc) its job is to shut the Gene Cafe down.
Timing
of the roast via the countdown timer and the time remaining is posted
in minutes and tenths of a minute via the green LED display (e.g.,
17.3). The maximum time that can be displayed is thirty (30) minutes.
I don't believe one would have the occasion to roast for longer than
thirty (30) minutes, but more time can be added continuously.
About
the Drum
The Pyrex cylinder of the drum is encapsulated by a
rigid plastic exoskeleton molded in such a manner that when inserted
into the roaster it provides for off-axis rotation. It is this same
shape (think parallelogram) that requires a “stand” for
the drum. Do not put the drum down without using the stand and always
put it back into the roaster for safe keeping.
Unique
construction and off-axis rotation of the drum accomplishes or aids
in accomplishing several objectives:
1.ability to see the
beans throughout the roasting cycle (positive and
negative)
2.produces an even roast
3.chaff removal
Being
able to see the beans during the roast is certainly valuable,
especially for those learning the different roast levels so long as
one does not become dependent on roast color. Different beans can
have very different appearances for the same degree of roast.
Inside the drum is a perforated metal plate that divides the
drum in half lengthwise. This plate has notches cut out in two
opposing corners. As the drum rotates, the beans are collected by the
metal plate putting them in contact with both the hot surface of the
metal plate and the glass of the drum. Continuing the rotation, the
beans are raised into the stream of forced hot air, begin to cascade
over themselves and drop through the notch in the opposing corner
into the bottom to be collected by the metal plate again.
This
constant motion contributes to a very even roast and loosening /
removal of chaff. The chaff is released into the stream of air and
carried to the opposite end of the drum where it exits the drum and
is collected in the chaff collector. Attached loosely to the metal
plate via a pair of split rings is a heavy metal plate known as the
chaff wipe. During drum revolutions, it “flops” from one
side to the other and wipes the grill where the chaff exits to keep
it from getting clogged. As the chaff wipe sweeps from side to side,
it lands against the drum. To keep it from breaking the glass, it has
a dumbbell-shaped rubber piece inserted into its outermost corner.
I do strongly recommend that you obtain a spare rubber bumper
for the chaff wipe; perhaps even more. Over time, and given the
protracted amount of time that they endure intense heat, and then
cool again, they can become brittle. One day while cleaning the drum
that little dumbbell shaped piece of rubber will break in two, fall
down the drain or both. Regardless, your roaster will be rendered
useless. I happened to have a spare on hand one day when mine broke
in two. It lasted about 375 roasts, but I don't remember exactly. If
you use the roaster without the rubber piece, it is highly likely
that you will break the drum and cost yourself a lot more
money.
Loading and Installing the Drum
Grasp the
drum by the handle and use your thumb to pull back on the spring
loaded latch that locks the drum into the roaster. The drum should
slip effortlessly from the roaster. Place the drum into the drum
stand. Open the drum by “flipping” it open; it is a lid
supported by a single metal hinge that is painted black and blends in
with the plastic. Treat this gently as it appears to be an area of
high stress and could become fragile over time.
With the lid
closed, align the drum with the receiving slots in the roaster and
slip it into the roaster. It should slide effortlessly into the
roaster and land at the bottom with the latch engaged. Make sure the
latch is engaged by lifting on the drum. If it is not latched, the
drum will slip out, jam the roaster and potentially cause severe
damage to the roaster.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
The hinge
becomes very hot during roasting and can cause a severe burn. It
could catch you by surprise and cause you to drop and break the drum.
Wear protective gloves.
After pouring your green coffee beans
into the drum, if you attempt to close the lid and it offers
resistance, STOP! There is a bean in the hinge. I happen to have a
pair of needle-nose pliers in the vicinity and they work very well
for removing the bean.
The drum should always slip right into
place! Do not force the drum into place! If the drum is offering
resistance, check to make sure the lid is completely closed and that
the drum is lined up properly.
This roaster as with any other
roaster is affected by ambient temperature. If for some reason you
are concerned if your roaster is heating properly, then you can check
its heating ability using the procedure described below in the
section “Checking the Heating Ability of the Roaster.”
Roasting:
Roasting a good batch of coffee can be as
simple as adding the beans, setting the temperature to 456º F,
setting the time to 30 minutes, pressing start to initiate the roast
and pressing stop to terminate the roast and initiate the cooling
cycle when the beans have reach the desired level of roast. If using
the roaster's cooling process, one will become accustomed to
initiating the cooling a bit before the desired roast level because
the roast has a tendency to coast before the cooling cycle halts the
roasting altogether.
This roaster does generate a modicum of
noise, but one can become attuned to first and second cracks, which
are essential indicators of roast progress. (It could be explained as
this: first crack is the physical expansion of the coffee seed as
water and carbon dioxide split and CO-2 outgassing occurs. Second
Crack is the physical fracturing of the cellular matrix of the
coffee. This matrix is wood, also called cellulose, and consists of
organized cellulose that reacts readily to heat, and not-so-organized
cellulose that does not. - see Footnote #1). I am partially deaf and
can still hear the cracks. If I am really being attentive, then I
listen near the exhaust port of the chaff collector. I position my
head so that the sticker on the roaster, just above the chaff
collector, is right in my face, which means that the exhaust / sound
is blowing by my left ear ( be careful not to burn your ear ) and I
can see the time, temp and the beans. Again, this must be done with
caution as the exhaust is very hot and can cause a severe burn.
If
I was unfamiliar with a coffee, and given that I have a hearing
deficit,
I would frequently position my head so that the sticker
on the roaster, just above the chaff collector was right in my face,
which would mean that the exhaust / sound was blowing by my left ear
(be careful not to burn your ear) and I could see the time, temp and
the beans.
The exhaust port makes for a great tool with which
the operator can monitor all of the important aspects of roasting:
aroma, smoke, time, temperature, sound and bean color (which can be
deceiving). While sampling the aroma one can also look for smoke and
within peripheral vision keep an eye on time and temperature while
also glancing at the beans through the clear glass drum and listening
for 1st or 2nd crack.
Another benefit is that the exhaust port
is directional by design although not adjustable. I have been able to
roast inside the house atop the range and beneath the range hood that
is externally vented. The roast smoke is vented to the outside of the
home and the roasting aromas remain within. Now available is a
replacement chaff collector that allows for the attachment of dryer
hose vent tubing (metal). ( http://snipurl.com/Gene_Cafe_Burman
)
Roasting with Profiles:
With this roasting
appliance, one has control over both the temperature and time
throughout the roast with very few limitations. Using input from
other veteran roasters I developed a “root” profile and
all of my profiles are some variation of this original. This root
profile is:
Stage 1: 300º F for 5 minutes of drying /
warming; total elapsed time is 5 minutes
Stage 2: 446º F for
4 minutes of initial heat ramp; total elapsed time is 9 minutes
Stage
3: 465º F for 1.5 minutes of continued heat ramp; total elapsed
time is 10.5 minutes
Stage 4: 482º F for 3 minutes of final
heat ramp: total elapsed time is 13.5 minutes
Stage 5: 456º F
for the remainder of the roast
Stage 1 is to prepare the beans
for roasting. This phase removes moisture and at the same time gets
the beans warmed up and ready to roast. I find that it makes the
beans more receptive to heat. You want to get the heat into the bean
without cauterizing the outside of the bean which actually insulate
the bean.
Stages 2-4 are for controlling the rate of increase
of bean temperature as the roast progresses toward first crack. Both
duration and temperature are adjusted based on the beans being
roasted and the desired development of flavors. In general, a faster
increase in temperature produces a brighter roast.
Stage 5 is
usually set during first crack and is for controlling the rate at
which the roast progresses toward second crack, which also is
important for the development of flavor and body.
I have
profiles saved for many coffees and will gladly share them. Just send
me a PM or Email.
Chaff Collection:
This roaster is
the best I have seen and read about with respect to chaff control,
collection and disposal.
Forced hot air exits the drum through a
slotted port that is kept clean by a metal chaff wipe; the chaff wipe
has a rubber bumper to keep it from hitting / breaking the glass of
the drum. That same heated air leaves behind the chaff as it exits
the roaster via an upward angled port atop the chaff collector. Ample
room for chaff collection is provided. I have completed eight
consecutive Dry Process roasts without emptying the chaff collector;
it was stuffed full of chaff, but it emptied into the flowerbed
without problem and never impacted the roast. I do not recommend
ignoring chaff collection to this extent; I can be forgetful and in
this instance, I forgot to empty the chaff collector. Do pay
attention to this detail and keep the chaff collector emptied thereby
keeping the exhaust port cleared; carelessness in this regard can
present a fire hazard.
Cleaning the Roaster:
It is
my understanding that “Simple Green” was originally
invented for cutting through and cleaning coffee oils; it has worked
well for cleaning the roaster, but use it in a well ventilated area
as the fumes are potent (always follow safety labels). Do not scrub
the glass with anything abrasive.
The manual states not to,
but I remove the metal insert from the drum for cleaning. Without
doing so, I end up cutting my hands. I use a screwdriver and pry up
on one of the “tabs” on either side and it comes out
rather easily once loosened. You must be careful not to break
anything or ruin the rubber gasket. Do this at your own risk.
Once
the metal insert is removed, I scrub it with a steel brush. If the
residue is really tough, I smear the whole thing with orange pumice
hand cleaner and let it sit. After a while, the residue comes off
easily. Be careful not to break or otherwise ruin the rubber bumper
on the chaff collector. As stated previously, the rubber does become
brittle over time. Once the drum is clean, reinstall the metal insert
being sure to align the small tab at the bottom with the small slot
in the base of the drum.
Make sure to rinse thoroughly.
Choose a safe location, place the drum stand on something absorbent
and stable, and place the drum in the stand to dry. I usually let the
drum dry over night then run it in the roaster empty to make sure it
is dry and burn off any left over cleaning smells. I have on occasion
run a “throw away” batch through the roaster to “season”
it again.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
You must remember to
regularly clean the air intake screen. This is located on the
underside of the roaster. Use a thick, soft towel or two so you don't
crack the lid or scratch the finish. Grab both ends and rotate it
onto its back. In the upper right corner of the underside, there are
slots and beneath these slots is a fine mesh screen that acts as an
air filter. If this does not get cleaned, then the airflow is
restricted and could present a fire hazard.
Checking
the Heating Ability of the Roaster
If your roaster doesn't
seem to be heating properly, or you just want to check it, there is a
simple test you can perform. With the Gene Cafe completely cold ( at
about room temperature ) and empty, set the temp at 482º F and
the time at 15 minutes or more. Start the roaster and track ( with a
timer or stopwatch ) the temperature reading on intervals of no more
than a minute and record how long it takes for the roaster to reach
482º F; note this time when you hear the switch “click”
and shut off the heat.
My roaster reaches 482º F at the
5 minute mark, but others take a little longer; consensus seems to be
that average is between 5 and 7 minutes . If your roaster takes
substantially longer or never reaches 482º F then I recommend
you contact Tim Skaling (see “Spare / Replacement Parts and
Repairs” below) and ask about service; he is very responsive.
It is also a good idea to perform this test and record the results as
a baseline for future reference.
Roaster Failure
On
Sunday, April 8, 2007 (Easter Sunday) I had a lot of roasting to do.
Fired up the first batch of Guatemalan in the Gene Cafe and proceeded
through the profile ramp; last stage, then I notice the temperature
taking a nose dive and watching a 1/2 lb of Sweet Maria's Coffee
going to that famed place of heat in a rocket sled. I tried several
things then aborted, disassembled and reassembled the roaster and
tried again to no avail. Pushed the roaster aside and used an
alternate method of roasting. It is important to note that this
failure occurred after roasting 423 batches of coffee totaling 221.5
pounds.
On Monday, April 9, 2007 I talked to Tim Skaling for a
few minutes, first thing in the morning, about the symptoms and let
him know that tools were not unfamiliar to me. Tim sent the part
(heater box) that he believed was the problem and I agreed to ship
back the old one for him to review with the Gene Cafe manufacturer
representatives for their quality control process. Tim told me that
he regularly meets with the folks from Korea to go over failed parts
and stated that they actually have a good quality control and review
method. I also agreed that if this did not fix the problem, then I
would have to ship the roaster back to him for repair.
On
Wednesday, April 11, 2007 the heater box (replacement part) for my
Gene Cafe roaster arrived. It took me maybe 15 minutes to replace the
part; once disassembled, four screws and two wires. Put the whole
thing back together and fired it up to check using the procedure
described above in the “Checking the Heating Ability of the
Roaster” section. The roaster reached maximum temperature (482º
F) in 4 minutes 48 seconds from a cold start. As a point of
reference, that is really, really good for a Gene Cafe.
I
thank Sweet Maria's for referring me to Tim Skaling. He is a great
guy! I talked to him for just a few minutes and he sent me a new part
that arrived in two days and my Gene Cafe is fixed. The next day, the
old part was shipped back to Tim Skaling via priority mail for
quality control review.
Cost / Value:
I paid $495.00
for this roaster. At present, since this roaster has completed 424
roasts, that equates to about $1.17 per roast. Given its ability to
roast by profile, which allows an individual to grow with the
roaster, and its ability to roast for brightness or base notes, I
believe it is a good value.
What I found priceless about this
roaster is that it was a great tool for learning to roast and
learning about roasting.
Other Considerations:
The
path of the airflow through the roaster is sealed; even the different
components along the path are glued at the seams with a silicone-like
sealer. This serves at least two purposes: conservation of the heat
energy and keeping the heat away from the electronics.
If you
are fairly new to roasting, I highly recommend studying and having
available during roasting, a copy of "An Updated Pictorial Guide
to the Roast Process." You can find it on the Sweet Maria's
website here:
http://www.sweetmarias.com/roasting-VisualGuideV2.html
Buying
Experience
I bought the Gene Cafe from Sweet Maria's (
http://www.sweetmarias.com ). As always, it was a flawless
transaction.
Spare
/ Replacement Parts and Repairs
At writing of this
document, parts can be obtained from the following:
Fresh
Beans, Inc. ( http://www.freshbeansinc.com ) - U.S Warranty
Repairs
Tim Skaling
Phone: 435-940-1616
Fax: 435-940-1964
Email: skales@tfb.com
alternate #s: 435-940-1616, (888)
757-2326
Fresh Beans Inc.
6436 Business Park Loop Unit G
Park
City, Utah 84098
Ship to address:
Fresh Beans Inc.
PO
Box 982410
Park City, Utah 84098
Invalsa Coffee
Connection ( http://sales.invalsa.com/index.php?cPath=21_35_50_56
)
Address:
420 Main Street
West Newbury, MA 01985-1117
Voice: 1-978-363-8100
Fax: 1-978-363-1225
Sales:
sales@invalsa.com
Management: president@invalsa.com
If
you decide that you really like this roaster, you may want to
consider the purchase of a spare drum.
Parting Note
I
hope this is helpful. If I left anything out or you wish to ask me
questions, feel free to contact me.
Footnotes
Footnote
#1: It could be explained as this: first crack is the physical
expansion of the coffee seed as water and carbon dioxide split and
CO-2 outgassing occurs. Second Crack is the physical fracturing of
the cellular matrix of the coffee. This matrix is wood, also called
cellulose, and consists of organized cellulose that reacts readily to
heat, and not-so-organized cellulose that does not. - source of this
information is An Updated Pictorial Guide to the Roast Process
which is the property of Sweet Maria's to whom all copyrights belong.