Green Merino Socks
Yarn
Knitpicks 100 % merino, fingering weight, 100 g = 440 yds.
Needles
DPN's US #1.
Gauge
28 sts = 4" (10 cm).
Shoe size
US 10 1/2, European 40-41. There's some tips on how to make the socks smaller at the end of the pattern.
If you need to make the leg narrower or use different size needles, the stitch count in the slip stitch pattern
is a multiple of 4.
Level
Advanced. You should know the basic techniques of sock knitting.
Note: I knit using the continental method, so some explanations of my techniques may not apply to knitters
using the English method. These socks are possible to knit using both methods!
You can knit either the plain edge or Latvian Twist Edge. See below for instructions.
Latvian Twist Edge: Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 rows back and forth in garter stitch. Knit then the decorative
edging in 1 row: *k4, rotate the left hand needle under the cast-on edge and then behind and over the top of the
right hand needle until the sts are ready to be knit again*, rpt *-*to the end. Transfer the sts onto 4 DPN's, 15 sts on
each needle. K 2 rows, then continue with twisted rib.
Plain Egde: Cast on 60 sts. Transfer the sts onto 4 DPN's, 15 sts on each needle.
Twisted Rib: Knit 10 rows in twisted rib as follows: *k 1 tbl, p 1*. Knit 2 rows and then begin the slip stitch pattern.
Slip Stitch Pattern:
R 1: *k 1, wyif sl 3*, rpt *-*. When slipping stitches, make sure the yarn (in the front) is a bit loose. This loop of yarn
will be picked up and knitted later, and it should be a bit loose, otherwise the cuff will be too tight.
R 2: k.
R 3: k 2, *pick the leftover yarn from the slipped stitches onto the left hand needle, knit the stitch, so that the yarn
will be knit together with the stitch. [I did this by picking the left over yarn with my right hand needle, then I put my
right hand needle through the st, I picked the yarn. I brought the yarn from the ball through the stich and underneath
the left over yarn.] k 3.* rpt *-*, k1.
R 4: k. NOTE! The last s of the r must be slipped wyif!
R 5: wyif sl 2, *k 1, wyif sl 3*, rpt *-*. The last slipped stitch of the previous row will be knitted normally.
R 6: k.
R 7: *k the leftover yarn as on r 3, k 3*, rpt *-*.
R 8: k. The last stitch on R 4 (which is slipped) will produce a seamless repeat of the pattern, so the beginning and the
end of the row will not be visible in the finished sock. Rpt the slip stitch pattern in total of 5 times, R7 being the last
one.
The heel will be worked on the last two needles of your row (instead of the regular first and last), again for the seamless
repeat of the pattern. The heel is a regular Dutch heel.
Heel: When you have knitted the last row of the cuff (which must be R 7 in the pattern), turn the piece over and purl the
stitches on the 3rd and 4th needle (wrong side of the heel flap). All the even numbered rows of the slip stitch pattern
will be purled instead of knitted. Continue knitting the heel flap with the slip stitch pattern, until your heel flap is 30 R
high.
Then start the heel decreases: Divide the s onto three groups of 10 sts. (You may use stitch markers to do this.)
R 1 (right side): k 19, k2tog tbl, turn.
R 2: sl 1, p 8, p2tog.
R3: sl 1, k 8, k2tog tbl.
Rpt rows 2 and 3 until you have the middle 10 s remaining on the needle. Transfer these sts onto two needles (5 sts on each).
These will be your new first and fourth needles. The end of the row is between these two needles.
Gusset decreases: K the stitches on the 1st needle, then pick up and k 15 sts along the side of the heel flap. Continue
knitting the slip stitch pattern on needles 2 and 3 (since R7 was the last before the heel flap, continue the pattern on R8,
i.e. k all the sts), then pick up and k 15 sts along the other side of the heel flap and k all the sts on the 4th needle. Continue the
slip stitch pattern on needles 2 and 3 while working your gusset decreases:
Row 1: First needle: K in the slip stitch pattern to the last 3 st, then k2tog, k 1. Fourth needle: K 1, k2tog tbl, k in the slip stitch
pattern to the end of the row. Continue these decreases until you have 60 s.
Note: When you've worked all your gusset decreases, the slip stitch pattern should continue seamlessly from 1st to the 2nd
needle (and from 2nd to 3rd and so on). You must perform some Math to do this, since the pattern starts at the beginning of
the 1st needle and the decreased stitches are between your remaining stitches on needles 1 and 2 (and 3 and 4). Also notice
that if you started the heel flap on needles 3 and 4 of the cuff, the beginnings of your rows are slightly different. On R4 of
the pattern, you must sl the last two stitches (instead of one), so the pattern is 1 sts off on the foot. Since the number of sts
is again multiple of 4, the pattern continues seamlessly, even though the beginning of the row is different.
The pattern for the foot:
R 1: *wyif sl 3, k 1*, rpt *-*.
R 2: k.
R 3: k 1, *pick the left over yarn from the slipped stitches onto the left hand needle, knit the stitch, so that the yarn will
be knit together with the stitch, k 3.* rpt *-*, k 2.
R4: k. NOTE! The last 2 sts of the r must be slipped wyif!
R 5: wyif sl 1, *k 1, wyif sl 3*, rpt *-*. The last 2 slipped stitches of the previous row will be knitted normally.
R 6: k.
R 7: k 1, *k the left over yarn as on r 3, k 3*, rpt *-*, k 2.
R 8: k.
Continue working according to the pattern until you have 9 pattern repeats.
Begin toe decreases: needles 1 and 3: k all the s according to pattern to the last 2 sts, k2tog. needles 2 and 4: k 1, k2tog tbl,
k the remaining sts according to pattern. Continue these on every other R until you have 8 sts on each needle. Then rpt these
decreases on every R until you have 2 sts on each needle. Cut the yarn 6 to 8 inches after the last sts, pull the yarn through all
the sts.
Weave in ends and block.
Knit the second sock and wear proudly :)
For simplicity, you may choose to knit the hourglass heel instead of the regular heel. Then you won't have to knit the gusset
decreases at all, which makes the beginning of the foot slightly easier and simpler. However, because of the slipped stitches,
the pattern produces a fabric which is not very flexible. This is why I chose this form of heel for my socks. The toe decreases
should begin when the foot measures roughly 2 inches or 5 cms less than the desired length. Use this information when figuring
out the amount of repeats for the foot in socks that are smaller than mine.
I will give out this pattern only for personal use. Any commercial use is strictly prohibited. If you have any questions, suggestions or corrections, please let me know.
Yarn
Knitpicks 100 % merino, fingering weight, 100 g = 440 yds.
Needles
DPN's US #1.
Gauge
28 sts = 4" (10 cm).
Shoe size
US 10 1/2, European 40-41. There's some tips on how to make the socks smaller at the end of the pattern.
If you need to make the leg narrower or use different size needles, the stitch count in the slip stitch pattern
is a multiple of 4.
Level
Advanced. You should know the basic techniques of sock knitting.
Note: I knit using the continental method, so some explanations of my techniques may not apply to knitters
using the English method. These socks are possible to knit using both methods!
You can knit either the plain edge or Latvian Twist Edge. See below for instructions.
Latvian Twist Edge: Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 rows back and forth in garter stitch. Knit then the decorative
edging in 1 row: *k4, rotate the left hand needle under the cast-on edge and then behind and over the top of the
right hand needle until the sts are ready to be knit again*, rpt *-*to the end. Transfer the sts onto 4 DPN's, 15 sts on
each needle. K 2 rows, then continue with twisted rib.
Plain Egde: Cast on 60 sts. Transfer the sts onto 4 DPN's, 15 sts on each needle.
Twisted Rib: Knit 10 rows in twisted rib as follows: *k 1 tbl, p 1*. Knit 2 rows and then begin the slip stitch pattern.
Slip Stitch Pattern:
R 1: *k 1, wyif sl 3*, rpt *-*. When slipping stitches, make sure the yarn (in the front) is a bit loose. This loop of yarn
will be picked up and knitted later, and it should be a bit loose, otherwise the cuff will be too tight.
R 2: k.
R 3: k 2, *pick the leftover yarn from the slipped stitches onto the left hand needle, knit the stitch, so that the yarn
will be knit together with the stitch. [I did this by picking the left over yarn with my right hand needle, then I put my
right hand needle through the st, I picked the yarn. I brought the yarn from the ball through the stich and underneath
the left over yarn.] k 3.* rpt *-*, k1.
R 4: k. NOTE! The last s of the r must be slipped wyif!
R 5: wyif sl 2, *k 1, wyif sl 3*, rpt *-*. The last slipped stitch of the previous row will be knitted normally.
R 6: k.
R 7: *k the leftover yarn as on r 3, k 3*, rpt *-*.
R 8: k. The last stitch on R 4 (which is slipped) will produce a seamless repeat of the pattern, so the beginning and the
end of the row will not be visible in the finished sock. Rpt the slip stitch pattern in total of 5 times, R7 being the last
one.
The heel will be worked on the last two needles of your row (instead of the regular first and last), again for the seamless
repeat of the pattern. The heel is a regular Dutch heel.
Heel: When you have knitted the last row of the cuff (which must be R 7 in the pattern), turn the piece over and purl the
stitches on the 3rd and 4th needle (wrong side of the heel flap). All the even numbered rows of the slip stitch pattern
will be purled instead of knitted. Continue knitting the heel flap with the slip stitch pattern, until your heel flap is 30 R
high.
Then start the heel decreases: Divide the s onto three groups of 10 sts. (You may use stitch markers to do this.)
R 1 (right side): k 19, k2tog tbl, turn.
R 2: sl 1, p 8, p2tog.
R3: sl 1, k 8, k2tog tbl.
Rpt rows 2 and 3 until you have the middle 10 s remaining on the needle. Transfer these sts onto two needles (5 sts on each).
These will be your new first and fourth needles. The end of the row is between these two needles.
Gusset decreases: K the stitches on the 1st needle, then pick up and k 15 sts along the side of the heel flap. Continue
knitting the slip stitch pattern on needles 2 and 3 (since R7 was the last before the heel flap, continue the pattern on R8,
i.e. k all the sts), then pick up and k 15 sts along the other side of the heel flap and k all the sts on the 4th needle. Continue the
slip stitch pattern on needles 2 and 3 while working your gusset decreases:
Row 1: First needle: K in the slip stitch pattern to the last 3 st, then k2tog, k 1. Fourth needle: K 1, k2tog tbl, k in the slip stitch
pattern to the end of the row. Continue these decreases until you have 60 s.
Note: When you've worked all your gusset decreases, the slip stitch pattern should continue seamlessly from 1st to the 2nd
needle (and from 2nd to 3rd and so on). You must perform some Math to do this, since the pattern starts at the beginning of
the 1st needle and the decreased stitches are between your remaining stitches on needles 1 and 2 (and 3 and 4). Also notice
that if you started the heel flap on needles 3 and 4 of the cuff, the beginnings of your rows are slightly different. On R4 of
the pattern, you must sl the last two stitches (instead of one), so the pattern is 1 sts off on the foot. Since the number of sts
is again multiple of 4, the pattern continues seamlessly, even though the beginning of the row is different.
The pattern for the foot:
R 1: *wyif sl 3, k 1*, rpt *-*.
R 2: k.
R 3: k 1, *pick the left over yarn from the slipped stitches onto the left hand needle, knit the stitch, so that the yarn will
be knit together with the stitch, k 3.* rpt *-*, k 2.
R4: k. NOTE! The last 2 sts of the r must be slipped wyif!
R 5: wyif sl 1, *k 1, wyif sl 3*, rpt *-*. The last 2 slipped stitches of the previous row will be knitted normally.
R 6: k.
R 7: k 1, *k the left over yarn as on r 3, k 3*, rpt *-*, k 2.
R 8: k.
Continue working according to the pattern until you have 9 pattern repeats.
Begin toe decreases: needles 1 and 3: k all the s according to pattern to the last 2 sts, k2tog. needles 2 and 4: k 1, k2tog tbl,
k the remaining sts according to pattern. Continue these on every other R until you have 8 sts on each needle. Then rpt these
decreases on every R until you have 2 sts on each needle. Cut the yarn 6 to 8 inches after the last sts, pull the yarn through all
the sts.
Weave in ends and block.
Knit the second sock and wear proudly :)
For simplicity, you may choose to knit the hourglass heel instead of the regular heel. Then you won't have to knit the gusset
decreases at all, which makes the beginning of the foot slightly easier and simpler. However, because of the slipped stitches,
the pattern produces a fabric which is not very flexible. This is why I chose this form of heel for my socks. The toe decreases
should begin when the foot measures roughly 2 inches or 5 cms less than the desired length. Use this information when figuring
out the amount of repeats for the foot in socks that are smaller than mine.
I will give out this pattern only for personal use. Any commercial use is strictly prohibited. If you have any questions, suggestions or corrections, please let me know.